Tomo Česen: Difference between revisions
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{{short description|Slovenian mountain climber}} |
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{{More footnotes|date=January 2010}} |
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In 1986, aged 26, he reported that he had [[enchainment|enchained]] the three [[Great north faces of the Alps]], becoming the first person to do so solo in winter; although nobody witnessed his feat.<ref name=MarkTwight>{{cite book | title=Kiss Or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber | author-link=Mark Twight | first=Mark | last=Twight | date=2001 | isbn=978-0898867633 | publisher=Mountaineering Books | chapter=My Way: A Short Talk with Tomo Cesen | page=63-74 | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=N7N-0rq_f8YC | accessdate=10 January 2023}}</ref> Česen enjoyed a period of fame and sponsorship from his enchainment, and went on to claim a number of increasingly bolder, and in some cases, groundbreaking, solo ascents, including: ''No Siesta'' on the [[Grandes Jorasses]], ''Pilier Rouge du Brouillard Direttissima'' on [[Mont Blanc]], ''Modern Times'' on the south face of the [[Marmolada]], the north face of [[Jannu]] (or Kumbhakarna), and the enormous south face of [[Lhotse]].<ref name=MarkTwight/> Many of his boldest solo ascents are now treated with skepticism in the mountaineering community,<ref name=MarkTwight/> and particularly his 1990 solo ascent of Lhotse’s south face.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=http://www.pioletsdor.net/presse/2017/forum/Reasonable-doubt-Child-Climbing.pdf | title=Reasonable Doubt | first=Greg | last=Child | author-link=Greg Child | date=March 1994 | accessdate=2 January 2023 | pages=74-81, 144-149}}</ref> He remains a controversial figure in climbing.<ref name=MarkTwight/> |
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One of the main climbing routes on [[K2]] is named the Česen Route, after him, when he soloed it in 1986;<ref name=BG>{{cite web | website=[[Bloomberg News]] | url=https://www.bloomberg.com/news/features/2018-07-12/how-hiking-may-hold-the-key-to-slovenia-s-tourism-future | title=How Hiking May Hold the Key to Slovenia's Tourism Future | first=Brandon | last=Presser | date=12 July 2018 | accessdate=10 January 2023}}</ref> there is evidence that he probably summitted K2, and his earlier 19-hour solo ascent of [[Broad Peak]] (made in preparation for K2) is not disputed.<ref name=MarkTwight/> |
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At the age of 26, he reported that he had enchained the three [[Great north faces of the Alps]], becoming the first person to do so solo in winter. |
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His son is the mountaineer, [[Aleš Česen]].<ref name=BG/> |
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He has claimed a number of other notable mountaineering achievements, but some of his claimed ascents have often met with skepticism from others in the mountaineering community. The most controversial was his 1990 solo ascent of [[Lhotse]], the fourth highest mountain in the world. |
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One of the more popular routes on [[K2]] is named after him (the Česen Route) after he soloed it in 1986. |
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==References== |
==References== |
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{{reflist}} |
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===Further reading=== |
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* http://www.mounteverest.net/story/BestofExplorersWeb2004AwardsJannuDec302004.shtml |
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* http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/150575/lhotse.html |
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{{Slovenian Sportsman of the Year}} |
{{Slovenian Sportsman of the Year}} |
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{{Authority control}} |
{{Authority control}} |
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{{DEFAULTSORT:Cesen, Tomo}} |
{{DEFAULTSORT:Cesen, Tomo}} |
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[[Category:1959 births]] |
[[Category:1959 births]] |
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[[Category:Living people]] |
[[Category:Living people]] |
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[[Category:Slovenian mountain climbers]] |
[[Category:Slovenian mountain climbers]] |
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{{Slovenia-sport-bio-stub}} |
{{Slovenia-sport-bio-stub}} |
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Latest revision as of 23:31, 19 February 2023
Tomislav "Tomo" Česen (born 5 November 1959) is a Slovenian mountaineer who specializes in solo climbing ascents in the Alps and the Himalayas.
In 1986, aged 26, he reported that he had enchained the three Great north faces of the Alps, becoming the first person to do so solo in winter; although nobody witnessed his feat.[1] Česen enjoyed a period of fame and sponsorship from his enchainment, and went on to claim a number of increasingly bolder, and in some cases, groundbreaking, solo ascents, including: No Siesta on the Grandes Jorasses, Pilier Rouge du Brouillard Direttissima on Mont Blanc, Modern Times on the south face of the Marmolada, the north face of Jannu (or Kumbhakarna), and the enormous south face of Lhotse.[1] Many of his boldest solo ascents are now treated with skepticism in the mountaineering community,[1] and particularly his 1990 solo ascent of Lhotse’s south face.[2] He remains a controversial figure in climbing.[1]
One of the main climbing routes on K2 is named the Česen Route, after him, when he soloed it in 1986;[3] there is evidence that he probably summitted K2, and his earlier 19-hour solo ascent of Broad Peak (made in preparation for K2) is not disputed.[1]
His son is the mountaineer, Aleš Česen.[3]
References
[edit]- ^ a b c d e Twight, Mark (2001). "My Way: A Short Talk with Tomo Cesen". Kiss Or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber. Mountaineering Books. p. 63-74. ISBN 978-0898867633. Retrieved 10 January 2023.
- ^ Child, Greg (March 1994). "Reasonable Doubt" (PDF). Climbing. pp. 74–81, 144–149. Retrieved 2 January 2023.
- ^ a b Presser, Brandon (12 July 2018). "How Hiking May Hold the Key to Slovenia's Tourism Future". Bloomberg News. Retrieved 10 January 2023.
Further reading
[edit]- Mark Twight, "My Way: A Short Talk with Tomo Česen" in Kiss or Kill, The Mountaineers Books, Seattle: 2001
- Greg Child, "Burden of Proof: The Tomo Česen Affair" in Postcards from the Ledge: The Collected Mountaineering Writings of Greg Child, 2000
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