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{{Short description|Traditional Japanese hair ornaments}}
{{refimprove|date=July 2010}}
{{Refimprove|date=July 2010}}
{{Italic title|reason=[[:Category:Japanese words and phrases]]}}
{{Italic title}}
[[File:Shochikubai kanzashi.jpg|300px|thumb|A modern January ''tsumami kanzashi'' worn by ''[[maiko (geiko)|maiko]]'']]
[[File:Shochikubai kanzashi.jpg|upright=1.3|thumb|A modern {{transliteration|ja|tsumami kanzashi}} set of the type worn by {{transliteration|ja|[[maiko]]}} (apprentice geisha) for the month of January]]
{{nihongo|'''''Kanzashi'''''|[[wiktionary:簪|簪]]|}} are hair [[human physical appearance|ornaments]] used in traditional [[Japanese culture|Japanese]] [[hairstyle]]s.


{{nihongo||[[wiktionary:簪#Japanese|簪]]|'''Kanzashi'''}} are hair ornaments used in traditional [[Japan]]ese [[nihongami|hairstyles]]. The term {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} refers to a wide variety of accessories, including long, rigid hairpins, barrettes, fabric flowers and fabric hair ties.
In the English-speaking world, the term "kanzashi" is sometimes applied to the folded cloth flowers that traditionally adorned ''tsumami kanzashi'' or to the technique used to make those flowers.

In the English-speaking world, the term {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} is typically used to refer to hair ornaments made from layers of folded cloth used to form flowers ({{transliteration|ja|tsumami kanzashi}}), or the technique of folding used to make the flowers.


==History==
==History==
''Kanzashi'' were first used in Japan during the [[Jōmon period]]. During that time, a single thin rod or stick was considered to have mystical powers that could ward off evil spirits, so people would wear them in their hair. This is also when some of the first predecessors of the modern Japanese hair comb began to appear.
{{transliteration|ja|Kanzashi}} were first used in Japan during the [[Jōmon period]]. During that time, the wearing of a single thin rod or stick was considered to hold powers to ward off evil spirits, with people wearing them in their hair for protective purposes.{{citation needed|date=August 2020}} The Jōmon period also saw the introduction of hair combs.

During the [[Nara period]], a variety of Chinese cultural aspects and items were [[Japanese missions to Imperial China|brought to Japan]] through mutual trade and envoys. The items brought back from China included [[Chinese hairpin]]s ({{transliteration|zh|zan}}, {{lang|zh|簪}}; written with the same [[kanji|Chinese character]] as {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}}), amongst other hair ornaments such as [[Shubi (comb)|Chinese combs]].<ref name=":4">{{Cite book|last=Sherrow|first=Victoria|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/61169697|title=Encyclopedia of hair : a cultural history|date=2006|publisher=Greenwood Press|isbn=0-313-33145-6|location=Westport, Conn.|pages=221–222|oclc=61169697}}</ref>

During the [[Heian period]], hairstyles shifted from being worn up to being worn long, and tied back relatively low. During this time period, the term {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} began to be used as a general term for any hair ornament, including combs and hairpins.

During the [[Azuchi-Momoyama period]], hairstyles changed from the {{nihongo3|"hair hanging down"|垂髪|taregami}} style, to the wider variety of styles worn up – predecessors of modern {{transliteration|ja|nihongami}} styles, which made more use of hair ornaments.

{{transliteration|ja|Kanzashi}} came into wider use during the [[Edo period]], when hairstyles became larger and more complicated, using a larger number of ornaments. Artisans began to produce more finely crafted products, including some hair ornaments that could be used as defensive weapons.{{Citation needed|date=June 2020|reason=Needs source showing conscious design for defensive use}} During the latter part of the Edo period, the craftsmanship of {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} is considered to have reached a high point, with a number of styles and designs created, many of which persist to the modern day.

===Modern day===
In the present day, traditional Japanese hairstyles are not commonly worn, typically being worn only by [[geisha]], {{transliteration|ja|[[maiko]]}}, [[rikishi|sumo wrestlers]], brides, modern {{transliteration|ja|[[oiran#modern day|tayū]]}} and {{transliteration|ja|[[oiran]]}} re-enactors, with both geisha, brides, {{transliteration|ja|tayū}} and {{transliteration|ja|oiran}}, and some apprentice geisha in some regions of Japan, using pre-styled wigs instead of their own hair.

As such, few people wear {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} with traditional hairstyles. However, {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} can be, and still are, worn with everyday hairstyles as simple hair accessories; there are a number of varieties and styles of wearing {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}}, with modern varieties worn as hairclips both common and popular. In 1982, {{transliteration|ja|tsumami kanzashi}} were officially designated as a [[Japanese handicrafts|traditional Japanese handcraft]] in the [[Tokyo]] region.<ref>[http://www.tourism.metro.tokyo.jp/english/tourists/info/basic_info/basic/dento/tokusan3.html "Tokyo's Traditional Craft Associations". Retrieved on 14 February 2012.] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110217061916/http://www.tourism.metro.tokyo.jp/english/tourists/info/basic_info/basic/dento/tokusan3.html |date=17 February 2011}}</ref>

==Craftsmanship==
Professional {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} craftspeople typically undergo a five- to 10-year traditional apprenticeship to learn the trade. Similarly to the combs used to create {{transliteration|ja|nihongami}} hairstyles,<ref name="Traditional Kyoto">{{cite web |url=https://traditionalkyoto.com/shopping/combs/ |title=Combs |website=traditionalkyoto.com |publisher=Traditional Kyoto |access-date=16 July 2020 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://archive.today/20200617100609/https://traditionalkyoto.com/shopping/combs/ |archive-date=17 June 2020}}</ref> only a small number of traditionally-trained {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} craftspeople are left practising the trade within Japan; from 2002 to 2010, their estimated number in the country decreased from 15 to five.<ref>Nakata Hiroko. [http://www.japantimes.co.jp/text/nn20020427b3.html "MUSEUM MUSINGS: Craftsmen keep alive hair ornaments that were all the rage in Edo Period"], ''The Japan Times'', 27 April 2002, retrieved 14 February 2012.</ref><ref>[http://mdn.mainichi.jp/photospecials/graph/kanzashi/ "Photos: The traditional decorative touch"] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110120054448/http://mdn.mainichi.jp/photospecials/graph/kanzashi/ |date=2011-01-20 }}, ''The Mainichi Daily News'', 10 July 2010, retrieved 14 February 2012.</ref>

However, the {{transliteration|ja|tsumami kanzashi}} technique of petal-folded fabric {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} has become a popular craft amongst hobbyists, with a number of books, kits and lessons available on the subject, from sources such as the Tsumami Kanzashi Museum in [[Shinjuku]]. Some hobbyists have bypassed the traditional apprenticeship system to establish themselves as independent artisans of {{transliteration|ja|tsumami kanzashi}} in Japan.<ref>"Ryoko"; English translation by Kevin Mcgue. [http://pingmag.jp/2008/06/12/tsumami-kanzashi/ "Yonuko's Beautiful Hair Pins: Make New From Old"]. ''PingMag'', 12 June 2008, retrieved 15 February 2012.</ref>

==Types==
{{transliteration|ja|Kanzashi}} are fabricated from a wide range of materials, such as lacquered wood, [[gold]] and [[silver]] plated metal, [[tortoiseshell material|tortoiseshell]], [[silk]], and recently, [[plastic]]. Early plastic {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} made out of materials such as [[bakelite]] are considered to be highly valued as collectables.

There are a number of basic {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} styles, with the wear of each typically and traditionally following [[seasonal]] arrangements; however, in the present day, the use of seasonal {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} is observed only by geisha, their apprentices, {{transliteration|ja|tayū}}, {{transliteration|ja|oiran}} re-enactors and in the costumes for kabuki plays. The use of {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} to finely indicate age and status is a tradition also only held by geisha and {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}.

For {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}, the size, shape, variety and number of {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} can indicate seniority and the stage of apprenticeship, used in tangent with a number of [[nihongami#maiko|different hairstyles]] throughout the apprenticeship. Though geisha also wear seasonal {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}}, this is typically confined to a change in the colour of {{transliteration|ja|tama kanzashi}}.

===Basic styles===
Despite seasonal and (in the instance of bridalwear) occasional variation, most {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} that are not considered to be {{transliteration|ja|tsumami kanzashi}} fall into one of a number of basic shapes and appearances.

{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
!width=20%|Name
!Photo
!Description
!Details
|-
|{{nihongo3|"fluttering" or "dangling {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}}"|びらびら簪|Bira-bira kanzashi}}
|[[File:Japanese - Hair Ornament - Walters 571342.jpg|thumb|none]]
|Two-pronged {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} with a rounded plate at the tip. Metal strips are attached to its edge by small rings that move independently of the main hairpin.
|Some {{transliteration|ja|bira-bira}} feature bells or long chains of additional silk flowers known as {{transliteration|ja|shidare}}, and most have a {{transliteration|ja|[[mon (emblem)|mon]]}} (crest) stamped on the flattened end.
|-
|{{nihongo3|"fluttering fan {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}}", also known as "princess style"|扇びら簪|Ōgi bira kanzashi}}
|[[File:Ogi-bira kanzashi (fluttering).JPG|thumb|none]]
|Fan-shaped {{transliteration|ja|bira-bira}}, stamped with the {{transliteration|ja|mon}} of the wearer.
|{{transliteration|ja|Ōgi bira}} are typically worn by {{transl|ja|maiko}}.
|-
|{{nihongo3|"sword"|笄|Kogai}}
|[[File:Kogai&Kushi2.jpg|thumb|none]]
|Two-piece stick-shaped {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} featuring a design on each end, which tend to be wider than the centre. {{transliteration|ja|Kogai}} resemble sheathed swords, with one end being removable in order for it to be placed in the hairstyle.
|{{transliteration|ja|Kogai}} are commonly made of tortoiseshell, lacquered wood, ceramics or metal, and are often sold as a set with an accompanying {{transliteration|ja|kushi}} comb.
|-
|{{nihongo||櫛|Kushi}}
|[[File:Comb - Tokyo National Museum - DSC06299.JPG|thumb|none]]
|Comb-shaped {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}}, typically rounded or rectangular, and made of similar materials to {{transliteration|ja|kogai kanzashi}}.
|{{transliteration|ja|Kushi}} may be inlaid with [[mother of pearl]] or [[gilding|gilded]], with most of the design placed on the wide "handle" portion, though sometimes extending down into the teeth of the comb itself. {{transliteration|ja|Kushi}} are usually placed at the front of the bun in traditional Japanese hairstyles. They commonly come in matching sets with {{transliteration|ja|kogai}}.
|-
|{{nihongo3|"flower comb"|花櫛|Hanagushi}}
|[[File:Hana kushi.jpg|thumb|none]]
|{{transliteration|ja|Kushi}} decorated with folded silk flowers ({{transliteration|ja|tsumami kanzashi}}).
|{{transliteration|ja|Hanagushi}} are popular as an informal {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} variety.
|-
|{{nihongo3|"ball {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}}"|玉簪|Tama kanzashi}}
|[[File:Mimikaki kanzashi.JPG|thumb|none]]
|Single-pronged hairpin style {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} decorated with a single coloured bead on the end.
|{{transliteration|ja|Tama kanzashi}} are commonly made of semi-precious stones such as jade or coral, or may be made of {{transliteration|ja|[[shibori]]}}-dyed fabric. Traditionally, red {{transliteration|ja|tama kanzashi}} were worn in the winter months, and green {{transliteration|ja|tama kanzashi}} were worn in summer.
|-
|{{nihongo||平打簪|Hirauchi kanzashi}}
|[[File:Kanzashi1.jpg|thumb|none]]
|Two-pronged {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} with a rounded, flattened end, worn as a hairpin in the back of a traditional hairstyle.
|Commonly made of wood, resin or metal, {{transliteration|ja|hirauchi}} are commonly decorated with lacquer, gilded, inlaid with precious metals, or – in the case of metal {{transliteration|ja|hirauchi}} – have a filigree-style carved design.
|-
|{{nihongo3|"fawn spots"|鹿の子|Kanoko}}
|[[File:Wareshinobu back.jpg|thumb|none]]
|Brightly-coloured fabric ties, sometimes padded, made of unpressed {{transliteration|ja|kanoko shibori}}-dyed fabric. {{transliteration|ja|Kanoko}} are usually tied around portions of the bun at the back of a traditional hairstyle.
|{{transliteration|ja|Kanoko}} are often pink or red. Non-{{transliteration|ja|shibori}} varieties using {{transliteration|ja|chirimen}} crepe are also seen.
|}


===Other styles===
During the [[Nara period]], a variety of Chinese cultural aspects and items were brought to Japan, including ''zan'' (written with the same [[kanji|Chinese character]] as ''kanzashi'') and other hair ornaments. During the [[Heian period]], the traditional style of putting hair up was changed to wearing it long, tied back low. It was at this time that ''kanzashi'' began to be used as a general term for any hair ornament, including combs and hairpins. During the [[Azuchi-Momoyama period]], the hairstyles changed from the {{nihongo|''taregami''|垂髪|}}, or long straight hair, to the wider variety of {{nihongo|"Japanese hair"|日本髪|Nihongami}} which made more use of hair ornaments.


A number of other styles of {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} also exist, though these are typically only worn for specific, uncommon hairstyles, such as by {{transliteration|ja|maiko}} in certain geisha districts or by characters in some kabuki plays.
''Kanzashi'' came into wide use during the [[Edo period]], when hairstyles became larger and more complicated, using a larger number of ornaments. Artisans began to produce more finely crafted products, including some hair ornaments that could be used as defensive weapons. During the latter part of the Edo period, the craftsmanship of kanzashi reached a high point, with many styles and designs being created (see [[#Types of kanzashi|Types of kanzashi]], below).


{| class="wikitable sortable"
Nowadays, kanzashi are most often worn by brides; by professional [[kimono]] wearers such as [[geisha]], [[tayū]]{{dn|date=October 2019}} and [[oiran]]; or by adepts in [[Japanese tea ceremony]] and [[ikebana]]. However, there is currently a revival among young Japanese women who wish to add an elegant touch to their [[business suit]]. There are many varieties and many styles of wearing kanzashi. The way a geisha wears her kanzashi indicates her status immediately to an informed audience according to the type and location of the kanzashi. [[Maiko]] (apprentice geisha) usually wear more numerous and elaborate kanzashi than more senior geisha and progress through several hairstyles where the kanzashi must be worn in a fixed pattern.
|-
!width=20%|Name
!Photo
!Description
!Details
|-
|{{nihongo||梵天|Bonten}}
|[[File:Ichifuku wearing katsuyama.jpg|thumb|{{transliteration|ja|Bonten}} seen on the right side of the bun in this {{transliteration|ja|katsuyama}} hairstyle|none]]
|Large, silver wire flower hairpins, typically featuring a larger flower in the centre, worn either side of the {{transliteration|ja|mage}} (bun) on certain hairstyles.
|{{transliteration|ja|Bonten kanzashi}} are typically only worn with the {{nihongo||勝山|katsuyama}} and {{nihongo||吹輪|fukiwa}} hairstyles.
|-
|{{nihongo||見送り|Miokuri}}
|[[File:Fumino misedashi eriashi.jpg|thumb|none]]
|Strip-like metal hair ornaments seen at the back of some hairstyles, hanging down from the central bun.
|Both {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}, {{transliteration|ja|tayū}} and {{transliteration|ja|oiran}} re-enactors wear {{transliteration|ja|miokuri}}, with the {{transliteration|ja|miokuri}} of courtesans being longer and curled up at the end. {{transliteration|ja|Miokuri}} are usually plain red or silver, though some may feature designs.
|-
|{{nihongo||橘簪|Tachibana kanzashi}}
|[[File:Wareshinobu back.jpg|thumb|{{transliteration|ja|Tachibana kanzashi}} seen on the right-hand side of this {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}'s hairstyle|none]]
|Small, hairpin style {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} intended to literally represent the ripe and unripened fruits of the {{transliteration|ja|[[tachibana orange|tachibana]]}} orange tree. The leaves of {{transliteration|ja|tachibana kanzashi}} are usually silver, with the oranges themselves made of jade and coral. For {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}, the placement of the {{transliteration|ja|tachibana kanzashi}} indicates seniority.
|
|-
|{{nihongo||金紗手柄|Chirimen tegara}}, also known as {{transliteration|ja|chirimen tegarami}} or simply {{transl|ja|tegara}}
|[[File:Geisha-kyoto-2004-11-21.jpg|thumb|{{transliteration|ja|Chirimen tegara}} decorated with silver foil flowers|none]]
|A triangular, folded piece of crepe fabric pinned into the back of certain hairstyles.
|For {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}, the colour of the fabric indicates seniority.
|-
|{{nihongo||鹿の子留め|Kanoko dome}}
|[[File:Wareshinobu back.jpg|thumb|none]]
|Short, heavily-decorated hairpins with a large, rounded decoration on the end.
|Typically decorated with gold, silver, tortoiseshell, jade, coral and other semi-precious stones, {{transliteration|ja|kanoko dome}} are worn at the back of some hairstyles featuring a bun, with the {{transliteration|ja|kanoko dome}} placed in the bun's centre.
|-
|{{nihongo||まえざし|Maezashi}} – also known as {{transliteration|ja|bira dome}}
|[[File:Mameroku.jpg|thumb|A small, circular green {{transliteration|ja|maezashi kanzashi}} seen here on the left-hand side of this {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}'s hairstyle|none]]
|Small hairpins with one small motif or decoration (such as a fan or flower) worn just above the {{transliteration|ja|ōgi bira}}, again typically only by {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}.
|{{transliteration|ja|Maezashi}} are usually chosen by the wearer out of personal taste.
|}


=={{transliteration|ja|Tsumami kanzashi}}==
''Tsumami kanzashi'' has been officially designated as a [[Japanese handicrafts|traditional Japanese handcraft]] in the [[Tokyo]] region since 1982.<ref>[http://www.tourism.metro.tokyo.jp/english/tourists/info/basic_info/basic/dento/tokusan3.html "Tokyo's Traditional Craft Associations". Retrieved on 14 February 2012.] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110217061916/http://www.tourism.metro.tokyo.jp/english/tourists/info/basic_info/basic/dento/tokusan3.html |date=17 February 2011 }}</ref> Traditionally trained professional artisans typically undergo five to ten years of apprenticeship; from 2002 to 2010, their estimated number in the country decreased from fifteen to five.<ref>Nakata Hiroko. [http://www.japantimes.co.jp/text/nn20020427b3.html "MUSEUM MUSINGS: Craftsmen keep alive hair ornaments that were all the rage in Edo Period"], ''The Japan Times'', 27 April 2002, retrieved 14 February 2012.</ref><ref>[http://mdn.mainichi.jp/photospecials/graph/kanzashi/ "Photos: The traditional decorative touch"] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110120054448/http://mdn.mainichi.jp/photospecials/graph/kanzashi/ |date=2011-01-20 }}, ''The Mainichi Daily News'', 10 July 2010, retrieved 14 February 2012.</ref> However, the petal-folding technique has become a popular hobby, due to instructional books, kits, and lessons from sources such as the Tsumami Kanzashi Museum in [[Shinjuku]]. Some students have bypassed the traditional apprenticeship system to establish themselves as independent professional artisans of ''tsumami kanzashi'' in Japan.<ref>"Ryoko"; English translation by Kevin Mcgue. [http://pingmag.jp/2008/06/12/tsumami-kanzashi/ "Yonuko’s Beautiful Hair Pins: Make New From Old"]. ''PingMag'', 12 June 2008, retrieved 15 February 2012.</ref>
[[File:Maneki_kanzashi.jpg|thumb|A December {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} featuring two blank {{transliteration|ja|maneki}} nameplates]]
[[File:Maiko Headdresses - panoramio.jpg|thumb|right|A display showing the seasonal {{transliteration|ja|hana kanzashi}} worn by {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}, from January to the New Year]]
{{transliteration|ja|Tsumami kanzashi}} – literally meaning "pinched {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}}" – are traditional {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} made of squares of dyed or printed silk, folded into a number of shapes to represent flowers, plants and animals.


Each square is folded multiple times with the aid of tweezers and glued onto a base using rice glue. A finished {{transliteration|ja|tsumami kanzashi}} piece may contain anything from five to 75 squares of silk or more. {{transliteration|ja|Tsumami kanzashi}} pieces are intended to closely represent the plant or animal they depict; {{transliteration|ja|tsumami kanzashi}} depicting flowers are known as {{transliteration|ja|hana kanzashi}} (literally meaning "flower {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}}").
==General types==
[[File:Kanzashi1.jpg|200px|thumb|Gold plated brass prong kanzashi. Period unknown.]]
Kanzashi are fabricated from a wide range of materials such as lacquered wood, [[gold]] and [[silver]] plated metal, [[tortoiseshell material|tortoiseshell]] and [[silk]], and recently, [[plastic]]. In fact, early [[bakelite]] kanzashi are highly valued as collectibles.


{{transliteration|ja|Hana kanzashi}} are usually made from a cluster of {{transliteration|ja|tsumami kanzashi}} flowers, and may include {{transliteration|ja|bira-bira}}-style strips of metal or long streamers of petals dangling from the main {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} piece. {{transliteration|ja|Maiko}} are well-known for wearing {{transliteration|ja|hana kanzashi}} that are typically larger than average.
There are several basic kanzashi styles that traditionally followed more complex ''hana'' ([[flower]]) and [[seasonal]] arrangements. Today these arrangements are only followed by maiko.


Generally, {{transliteration|ja|hana kanzashi}} are worn in pairs, one on either side of the head, often with a complementary {{transliteration|ja|kushi}}. The flowers are glued to backings of metal or cardboard that are attached to a wire and are bunched together to make bouquets and other arrangements. Additional detailing of [[stamen]]s is created by the use of {{transliteration|ja|[[mizuhiki]]}}, a strong, thin twine made from {{transliteration|ja|[[washi]]}} paper, often coloured and used for decorative works.
===Basic kanzashi shapes===
[[File:Ogi-bira kanzashi (fluttering).JPG|thumb|Ogi-bira kanzashi]]
[[File:Kogai&Kushi2.jpg|thumb|A kogai and a kushi]]
*'''Bira-bira''' – also called '''Fluttering''' or '''Dangling style''', these are composed of metal strips attached by rings to the body of the ornament so that they move independently, pleasantly tinkling (which is sometimes accentuated by additional bells or long chains of silk flowers called ''shidare'').
*'''[[Kogai]]''' – A two piece kanzashi made of Bekko (tortoiseshell or artificial) or other materials such as ceramics or metals that feature a design on each end. Kogai means ''sword'' and refers to the shape of two pieces make up this kanzashi (a sword and its sheath). They are often sold as a set with an accompanying kushi comb.
*'''Tama''' – ''Ball'' style kanzashi. These prong style kanzashi are decorated with only a simple colored bead on the end. Traditionally a red tama is worn October–May and a green tama is worn June–September.
*'''Kushi''' are comb kanzashi. These are usually rounded or rectangular combs made of tortoiseshell or lacquered wood that are often inlaid with [[mother of pearl]] or [[gilding]] and placed into a ''mage'' (bun-style hairdo). The spine of the comb is often wide in order to allow maximum space for a design, and in many cases, the design will extend into the teeth. "Flower-combs", also called ''hanagushi'', are made by gluing folded pieces of silk to a wooden base comb and are a popular, non-formal alternative.
*'''Kanoko dome''' – are heavily jeweled accessories crafted with some or all of the following: gold, silver, tortoiseshell, jade, coral, pearls and other semi-precious stones. While the general shape is rounded, they are also found in other shapes, with flowers and butterflies being the most popular. The kanoko dome is worn at the back of the wareshinobu hairstyle of the junior maiko and has two prongs that hold it securely in the ''mage''.
*'''Ōgi''' – Also called '''Princess style''', are metal, [[Fan (implement)#Asia|fan]]-shaped and [[kamon (crest)|kamon]]-imprinted kanzashi with [[aluminum]] streamers held in place by a long pin. These are usually worn by maiko in the hair just above the temple. New maiko wear two on the day of their debut (''[[misedashi]]'').
*'''Tachibana''' – Is a kanzashi made with two silver pins. It is worn by maiko with the ''wareshinobu'' hairdo.
*'''Hirauchi''' – Ornament with a flat rounded decoration.
*'''Maezashi''' – Also called '''Bira dome''', is an ornament worn over the '''Bira-bira'''.
*'''Miokuri''' – Is a Metal strips shaped ornament.
*'''Bonten''' – Round silver ornament with a pink touch.
*'''Kanoko''' – Bright colored fabric tube.
*'''Chirimen tegarami''' – Is a triangular fabric node.


Geisha, and especially {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}, wear different {{transliteration|ja|hana kanzashi}} for each month of the year.
===Hana kanzashi===
With '''hana kanzashi''', the long fluttering flower is characteristic of maiko. These are created from squares of silk by a technique known as ''[[tsumami]]'' (''pinching''). Each square is folded multiple times with the aid of tweezers and cut into a single petal. Flowers are made from these folded fabric petals and may contain anywhere from five petals to 75 or more, depending on the particular flower made. A 'hana kanzashi' is a cluster of these flowers, and may or may not include bira-bira and/or long streamers of tsumami petals, fashioned to look like hanging wisteria petals. Generally, hana kanzashi are worn in pairs, one on either side of the head, often with a complementary kushi and/or with several individual flowers scattered about the hair.The flowers are glued to backings of metal or cardboard that are attached to a wire and are bunched together to make bouquets and other arrangements. Additional detailing of [[stamen]]s is created by the use of ''[[mizuhiki]]'', which is a strong, thin twine made from [[washi]] paper, and is often coloured and used for decorative works.


===Seasonal {{transliteration|ja|tsumami kanzashi}} motifs===
Geisha, and especially maiko, wear different hana kanzashi for each month of the year.
{{transliteration|ja|Hana kanzashi}} are highly seasonal, though typically the only people in Japan who follow the seasons closely enough to register seasonal changes are geisha and their apprentices. Since {{transliteration|ja|maiko}} wear more elaborate {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} than their senior geisha, seasonal changes are even more important for them.


*'''January''' – The design of January {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} usually has an auspicious [[Japanese New Year|New Years']] theme. {{transliteration|ja|Shōchikubai}} is a popular choice – a combination of pine ({{transliteration|ja|shō}}), bamboo ({{transliteration|ja|chiku}}) and [[ume|plum blossoms]] ({{transliteration|ja|bai}}) in green, red and white. Other popular motifs are sparrows ({{transliteration|ja|suzume}}), spinning tops and battledore paddles ({{transliteration|ja|hagoita}}).
===Seasonal kanzashi===
*'''February''' – Usually trailing deep pink or red plum blossoms, said to symbolise young love and the approach of spring. Another less common theme is the pinwheel and the flowerball ({{transliteration|ja|kusudama}}) that is worn for [[Setsubun]].
The seasons dictate which kind of hair ornament is worn in Japan. Usually this applies above all to the [[geisha]] and maiko, who tend to be the only Japanese women to wear kanzashi often enough for seasonal changes to be noticeable. Since maiko wear more elaborate kanzashi than their senior geisha, seasonal changes are even more important for them.
*'''March''' – Trailing yellow and white [[rapeseed]] flowers ({{transliteration|ja|nanohana}}) and butterflies, as well as [[peach]] blossoms ({{transliteration|ja|momo}}), [[narcissus (plant)|narcissus]] ({{transliteration|ja|suisen}}), [[camellia]] ({{transliteration|ja|tsubaki}}) and [[peonies]] ({{transliteration|ja|botan}}). A rare {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} featuring dolls that are used to celebrate the {{transliteration|ja|Hina Matsuri}} (Girl's Day Festival) can also be seen during this month.
*'''January''' – The design of January kanzashi differs from year to year, but usually has an auspicious [[Japanese New Year]] theme. ''Shōchikubai'' is a popular choice, a combination of pine (''shō''), bamboo (''chiku'') and ''[[ume]]'' (''bai'') plum blossoms, (green, red and white) which are usually associated with celebrations. Other popular additions to the January kanzashi are sparrows (''suzume''), spinning tops and battledore paddles (''hagoita'').
*'''April''' – Trailing soft pink cherry blossoms ({{transliteration|ja|sakura}}) mixed with butterflies and {{transliteration|ja|[[bonbori]]}} lanterns, signalling the approach of summer. Cherry blossom viewing at this time of year is a major cultural event in Japan. {{transliteration|ja|Kanzashi}} consisting of a single silver (or sometimes gold) butterfly ({{transliteration|ja|cho}}) made of {{transliteration|ja|mizuhiki}} cord are common.
[[File:Geisha-and-two-maiko.jpg|thumb|Plum blossom in the hair of [[maiko (geiko)|maiko]] in February]]
*'''May''' – Trailing purple [[wisteria]] ({{transliteration|ja|fuji}}) and [[Iris versicolor|flag irises]] ({{transliteration|ja|ayame}}), usually in blue or pink. Irises denote the height of spring while wisteria is a flower often associated with the Imperial Court (wisteria viewing parties have been celebrated by Japanese nobles since the [[Heian period]]).
*'''February''' – Usually trailing deep pink, or sometimes red, ''[[ume]]'' plum blossoms, which are to be seen everywhere in Japan at this time and symbolize young love and the approach of spring. Another less common theme is the pinwheel and the flowerball (''kusudama'') that is worn for [[Setsubun]].
*'''June''' – Trailing green [[willow]] ({{transliteration|ja|yanagi}}) leaves with [[dianthus|carnations/pinks]] ({{transliteration|ja|nadeshiko}}), or less commonly [[hydrangea]] ({{transliteration|ja|ajisai}}) flowers. This month is the rainy season in Japan, and therefore [[willow]] (a water-loving tree) and blue hydrangeas are appropriate.
*'''March''' – Trailing yellow and white [[rapeseed]] flowers (''nanohana'') and butterflies, as well as [[peach]] blossoms (''momo''), [[narcissus (plant)|narcissus]] (''suisen''), [[camellia]] (''tsubaki'') and [[peonies]] (''botan''). A rare kanzashi featuring dolls that are used to celebrate the ''Hina Matsuri'' (Girl's Day Festival) can also be seen during this month.
*'''July''' – {{transliteration|ja|Kanzashi}} featuring a display of fans (usually round {{transliteration|ja|uchiwa}} fans, but occasionally folding {{transliteration|ja|sensu}} fans) are featured. The fans refer to the [[Gion Festival]] which takes place at this time. The motifs featured on a {{transliteration|ja|maiko}}'s fan {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} vary each year, in line with the festival. There are common themes such as dragonflies and lines denoting swirling water. Other {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} worn during July are fireworks {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} and dewdrops on grass ({{transliteration|ja|tsuyushiba}}).
*'''April''' – Trailing soft pink cherry blossom (''sakura'') mixed with butterflies and ''[[bonbori]]'' lanterns, signaling the approach of summer. Cherry blossom viewing at this time of year is a major cultural event in Japan. Also, kanzashi consisting of a single silver (or sometimes gold) butterfly (''cho'') made of ''mizuhiki'' cord are common.
*'''August''' – Large [[morning glory]] ({{transliteration|ja|asagao}}) or {{transliteration|ja|[[Miscanthus sinensis|susuki]]}} grass. The {{transliteration|ja|susuki}} grass appears as a starburst of spines made of silvered paper. Senior {{transliteration|ja|maiko}} wear white-backed silver petals and junior {{transliteration|ja|maiko}} wear pink-backed silver petals.
*'''May''' – Trailing purple [[wisteria]] (''fuji'') and [[Iris_versicolor|flag irises]] (''ayame''), usually in blue or pink. Irises denote the height of spring while wisteria is a flower often associated with the imperial court (wisteria viewing parties have been celebrated by Japanese nobles since the [[Heian Period]]).
*'''September''' – [[Japanese bellflower]] ({{transliteration|ja|kikyō}}). The purple tones are traditionally associated with autumn. Often these will be mixed with [[bush clover]].
*'''June''' – Trailing green [[willow]] (''yanagi'') leaves with [[dianthus|carnations/pinks]] (''nadeshiko''), or less commonly [[hydrangea]] (''ajisai'') flowers. Willow is a traditional image associated with geisha. This month is the rainy season in Japan, and therefore willow (a water-loving tree) and the washy blue of hydrangea are appropriate.
*'''October''' – Chrysanthemum ({{transliteration|ja|kiku}}). These are well loved in Japan and are a symbol of the Imperial Family. Senior {{transliteration|ja|maiko}} will wear one large flower while junior {{transliteration|ja|maiko}} will wear a cluster of small flowers. Typical colours include pink, white, red, yellow, and purple.
*'''July''' – Kanzashi featuring a display of fans. These will usually be of the round ''uchiwa'' variety, but occasionally folding fans (''sensu'') are also featured. The fans refer to the [[Gion Festival]] which takes place at this time. This is a huge event held at the Gion geisha district in [[Kyoto]], which involves large parades of portable shrines (''mikoshi'') and dances. Fans are a staple component of keeping cool during the Japanese humid summers. The motifs featured on a maiko's fan kanzashi vary each year, in line with the festival. There are common themes such as dragonflies and lines denoting swirling water. Other kanzashi worn during July are the fireworks kanzashi and ''tsuyushiba'' (dewdrops on grass).
*'''November''' – Trailing autumnal leaves that are usually composed of the very popular [[Acer palmatum|Japanese maple]]. Maple viewing is the autumnal equivalent of cherry blossom viewing in Japan. [[Ginkgo]] and [[liquidambar]] leaves are also seen.
*'''August''' – Large [[morning glory]] (''asagao'') or [[Miscanthus sinensis|susuki grass]]. The susuki grass appears as a starburst of spines. Senior maiko wear white-backed silver petals and junior maiko wear pink-backed silver petals.
*'''December''' – The Japanese make {{transliteration|ja|[[mochi]]}} at this time of year, and often decorate trees with them to represent white flowers. It is thought to be good luck to wear {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} featuring {{transliteration|ja|mochibana}}, or rice-cake flowers. December {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} also feature two {{transliteration|ja|maneki}}, name plates used by [[kabuki]] actors, which are initially blank. Traditionally, {{transliteration|ja|maiko}} visit the Minamiza Theatre and ask two of their favourite kabuki actors to autograph them with their kabuki ''nom de plume''. {{transliteration|ja|Kanzashi}} for senior {{transliteration|ja|maiko}} feature green bamboo leaves while junior {{transliteration|ja|maiko}} have a colourful assortment of lucky charms.
*'''September''' – [[Japanese bellflower]] (''kikyō''). The purple tones are traditionally associated with autumn. Often these will be mixed with [[bush clover]].
*'''New Year''' – At this time of year all {{transliteration|ja|maiko}} and geisha wear un-husked ears of rice in their hairstyles ({{transliteration|ja|maiko}} wear it on the right while geisha wear it on the left). These {{transliteration|ja|kanzashi}} also feature eyeless white doves. The {{transliteration|ja|maiko}} and geisha fill in one eye and ask somebody they like to draw the other for good luck in the coming year.
*'''October''' – Chrysanthemum (''kiku''). These are well loved in Japan and are a symbol of the Imperial Family. Senior maiko will wear one large flower while junior maiko will wear a cluster of small flowers. Typical colors include pink, white, red, yellow, and purple.
*'''November''' – Trailing autumnal leaves that are usually composed of the very popular [[Acer_palmatum|Japanese maple]]. Maple viewing is the autumnal equivalent of cherry blossom viewing in Japan. [[Ginkgo]] and [[liquidambar]] leaves are also seen.
*'''December''' – The Japanese make [[mochi]] at this time of year, and often decorate trees with them to represent white flowers. It is thought to be good luck to wear kanzashi featuring ''mochibana'', or rice-cake flowers. December kanzashi also feature two ''maneki'', name plates used by kabuki actors, which are initially blank. Traditionally, maiko visit the Minamiza Theatre and ask two of their favorite [[Kabuki]] actors to autograph them with their kabuki nom de plume. Kanzashi for senior maiko feature green bamboo leaves while junior maiko have a colorful assortment of lucky charms.
*'''New Year''' – At this time of year all maiko and geisha wear un-husked rice ears in their coiffure (maiko wear it on the right while geisha wear it on the left). These kanzashi also feature eyeless white doves. The maiko and geisha fill in one eye and ask somebody they like to draw the other for good luck in the coming year.


==See also==
==See also==
* [[Binyeo]]
* [[Chinese hairpin]]
*{{transliteration|ko|[[Binyeo]]}}
* [[Comb]]
* [[Comb]]
* [[Hair stick]]
* [[Hair stick]]
* [[Hairpin (fashion)|Hairpin]]
* [[Hairpin (fashion)|Hairpin]]
*{{transliteration|zh|[[Shubi (comb)|Shubi]]}} – Chinese combs


==References==
==References==
{{reflist}}
<references />


==External links==
==External links==
Line 76: Line 175:
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20061018214705/http://www.immortalgeisha.com/hairstyles_maiko.php Hairstyles of Kyoto Maiko], from [https://web.archive.org/web/20100116182514/http://immortalgeisha.com/ Immortal Geisha]
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20061018214705/http://www.immortalgeisha.com/hairstyles_maiko.php Hairstyles of Kyoto Maiko], from [https://web.archive.org/web/20100116182514/http://immortalgeisha.com/ Immortal Geisha]
* [http://www.vivcore.com/kanzashi_core.html Kanzashi-Core] Long standing kanzashi site of designer Vivien Hoffpauir.
* [http://www.vivcore.com/kanzashi_core.html Kanzashi-Core] Long standing kanzashi site of designer Vivien Hoffpauir.
* {{in lang|ja}} [https://web.archive.org/web/20160303202345/http://www.kanzasi.co.jp/cgi-bin/kanzasi/sitemaker.cgi?mode=page&page=page4&category=2 History of Kanzashi]
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20160303202345/http://www.kanzasi.co.jp/cgi-bin/kanzasi/sitemaker.cgi?mode=page&page=page4&category=2 History of Kanzashi] {{in lang|ja}}


[[Category:Japanese clothing]]
[[Category:Hairdressing]]
[[Category:Hairdressing]]
[[Category:Headgear]]
[[Category:Japanese headgear]]
[[Category:Japanese words and phrases]]


{{Japanese clothing}}
{{Japanese clothing}}

Latest revision as of 07:29, 9 March 2024

A modern tsumami kanzashi set of the type worn by maiko (apprentice geisha) for the month of January

Kanzashi (簪) are hair ornaments used in traditional Japanese hairstyles. The term kanzashi refers to a wide variety of accessories, including long, rigid hairpins, barrettes, fabric flowers and fabric hair ties.

In the English-speaking world, the term kanzashi is typically used to refer to hair ornaments made from layers of folded cloth used to form flowers (tsumami kanzashi), or the technique of folding used to make the flowers.

History

[edit]

Kanzashi were first used in Japan during the Jōmon period. During that time, the wearing of a single thin rod or stick was considered to hold powers to ward off evil spirits, with people wearing them in their hair for protective purposes.[citation needed] The Jōmon period also saw the introduction of hair combs.

During the Nara period, a variety of Chinese cultural aspects and items were brought to Japan through mutual trade and envoys. The items brought back from China included Chinese hairpins (zan, 簪; written with the same Chinese character as kanzashi), amongst other hair ornaments such as Chinese combs.[1]

During the Heian period, hairstyles shifted from being worn up to being worn long, and tied back relatively low. During this time period, the term kanzashi began to be used as a general term for any hair ornament, including combs and hairpins.

During the Azuchi-Momoyama period, hairstyles changed from the taregami (垂髪, "hair hanging down") style, to the wider variety of styles worn up – predecessors of modern nihongami styles, which made more use of hair ornaments.

Kanzashi came into wider use during the Edo period, when hairstyles became larger and more complicated, using a larger number of ornaments. Artisans began to produce more finely crafted products, including some hair ornaments that could be used as defensive weapons.[citation needed] During the latter part of the Edo period, the craftsmanship of kanzashi is considered to have reached a high point, with a number of styles and designs created, many of which persist to the modern day.

Modern day

[edit]

In the present day, traditional Japanese hairstyles are not commonly worn, typically being worn only by geisha, maiko, sumo wrestlers, brides, modern tayū and oiran re-enactors, with both geisha, brides, tayū and oiran, and some apprentice geisha in some regions of Japan, using pre-styled wigs instead of their own hair.

As such, few people wear kanzashi with traditional hairstyles. However, kanzashi can be, and still are, worn with everyday hairstyles as simple hair accessories; there are a number of varieties and styles of wearing kanzashi, with modern varieties worn as hairclips both common and popular. In 1982, tsumami kanzashi were officially designated as a traditional Japanese handcraft in the Tokyo region.[2]

Craftsmanship

[edit]

Professional kanzashi craftspeople typically undergo a five- to 10-year traditional apprenticeship to learn the trade. Similarly to the combs used to create nihongami hairstyles,[3] only a small number of traditionally-trained kanzashi craftspeople are left practising the trade within Japan; from 2002 to 2010, their estimated number in the country decreased from 15 to five.[4][5]

However, the tsumami kanzashi technique of petal-folded fabric kanzashi has become a popular craft amongst hobbyists, with a number of books, kits and lessons available on the subject, from sources such as the Tsumami Kanzashi Museum in Shinjuku. Some hobbyists have bypassed the traditional apprenticeship system to establish themselves as independent artisans of tsumami kanzashi in Japan.[6]

Types

[edit]

Kanzashi are fabricated from a wide range of materials, such as lacquered wood, gold and silver plated metal, tortoiseshell, silk, and recently, plastic. Early plastic kanzashi made out of materials such as bakelite are considered to be highly valued as collectables.

There are a number of basic kanzashi styles, with the wear of each typically and traditionally following seasonal arrangements; however, in the present day, the use of seasonal kanzashi is observed only by geisha, their apprentices, tayū, oiran re-enactors and in the costumes for kabuki plays. The use of kanzashi to finely indicate age and status is a tradition also only held by geisha and maiko.

For maiko, the size, shape, variety and number of kanzashi can indicate seniority and the stage of apprenticeship, used in tangent with a number of different hairstyles throughout the apprenticeship. Though geisha also wear seasonal kanzashi, this is typically confined to a change in the colour of tama kanzashi.

Basic styles

[edit]

Despite seasonal and (in the instance of bridalwear) occasional variation, most kanzashi that are not considered to be tsumami kanzashi fall into one of a number of basic shapes and appearances.

Name Photo Description Details
Bira-bira kanzashi (びらびら簪, "fluttering" or "dangling kanzashi")
Two-pronged kanzashi with a rounded plate at the tip. Metal strips are attached to its edge by small rings that move independently of the main hairpin. Some bira-bira feature bells or long chains of additional silk flowers known as shidare, and most have a mon (crest) stamped on the flattened end.
Ōgi bira kanzashi (扇びら簪, "fluttering fan kanzashi", also known as "princess style")
Fan-shaped bira-bira, stamped with the mon of the wearer. Ōgi bira are typically worn by maiko.
Kogai (笄, "sword")
Two-piece stick-shaped kanzashi featuring a design on each end, which tend to be wider than the centre. Kogai resemble sheathed swords, with one end being removable in order for it to be placed in the hairstyle. Kogai are commonly made of tortoiseshell, lacquered wood, ceramics or metal, and are often sold as a set with an accompanying kushi comb.
Kushi (櫛)
Comb-shaped kanzashi, typically rounded or rectangular, and made of similar materials to kogai kanzashi. Kushi may be inlaid with mother of pearl or gilded, with most of the design placed on the wide "handle" portion, though sometimes extending down into the teeth of the comb itself. Kushi are usually placed at the front of the bun in traditional Japanese hairstyles. They commonly come in matching sets with kogai.
Hanagushi (花櫛, "flower comb")
Kushi decorated with folded silk flowers (tsumami kanzashi). Hanagushi are popular as an informal kanzashi variety.
Tama kanzashi (玉簪, "ball kanzashi")
Single-pronged hairpin style kanzashi decorated with a single coloured bead on the end. Tama kanzashi are commonly made of semi-precious stones such as jade or coral, or may be made of shibori-dyed fabric. Traditionally, red tama kanzashi were worn in the winter months, and green tama kanzashi were worn in summer.
Hirauchi kanzashi (平打簪)
Two-pronged kanzashi with a rounded, flattened end, worn as a hairpin in the back of a traditional hairstyle. Commonly made of wood, resin or metal, hirauchi are commonly decorated with lacquer, gilded, inlaid with precious metals, or – in the case of metal hirauchi – have a filigree-style carved design.
Kanoko (鹿の子, "fawn spots")
Brightly-coloured fabric ties, sometimes padded, made of unpressed kanoko shibori-dyed fabric. Kanoko are usually tied around portions of the bun at the back of a traditional hairstyle. Kanoko are often pink or red. Non-shibori varieties using chirimen crepe are also seen.

Other styles

[edit]

A number of other styles of kanzashi also exist, though these are typically only worn for specific, uncommon hairstyles, such as by maiko in certain geisha districts or by characters in some kabuki plays.

Name Photo Description Details
Bonten (梵天)
Bonten seen on the right side of the bun in this katsuyama hairstyle
 Large, silver wire flower hairpins, typically featuring a larger flower in the centre, worn either side of the mage (bun) on certain hairstyles. Bonten kanzashi are typically only worn with the katsuyama (勝山) and fukiwa (吹輪) hairstyles.
Miokuri (見送り)
Strip-like metal hair ornaments seen at the back of some hairstyles, hanging down from the central bun. Both maiko, tayū and oiran re-enactors wear miokuri, with the miokuri of courtesans being longer and curled up at the end. Miokuri are usually plain red or silver, though some may feature designs.
Tachibana kanzashi (橘簪)
Tachibana kanzashi seen on the right-hand side of this maiko's hairstyle
 Small, hairpin style kanzashi intended to literally represent the ripe and unripened fruits of the tachibana orange tree. The leaves of tachibana kanzashi are usually silver, with the oranges themselves made of jade and coral. For maiko, the placement of the tachibana kanzashi indicates seniority.
Chirimen tegara (金紗手柄), also known as chirimen tegarami or simply tegara
Chirimen tegara decorated with silver foil flowers
 A triangular, folded piece of crepe fabric pinned into the back of certain hairstyles. For maiko, the colour of the fabric indicates seniority.
Kanoko dome (鹿の子留め)
Short, heavily-decorated hairpins with a large, rounded decoration on the end. Typically decorated with gold, silver, tortoiseshell, jade, coral and other semi-precious stones, kanoko dome are worn at the back of some hairstyles featuring a bun, with the kanoko dome placed in the bun's centre.
Maezashi (まえざし) – also known as bira dome
A small, circular green maezashi kanzashi seen here on the left-hand side of this maiko's hairstyle
 Small hairpins with one small motif or decoration (such as a fan or flower) worn just above the ōgi bira, again typically only by maiko. Maezashi are usually chosen by the wearer out of personal taste.

Tsumami kanzashi

[edit]
A December kanzashi featuring two blank maneki nameplates
A display showing the seasonal hana kanzashi worn by maiko, from January to the New Year

Tsumami kanzashi – literally meaning "pinched kanzashi" – are traditional kanzashi made of squares of dyed or printed silk, folded into a number of shapes to represent flowers, plants and animals.

Each square is folded multiple times with the aid of tweezers and glued onto a base using rice glue. A finished tsumami kanzashi piece may contain anything from five to 75 squares of silk or more. Tsumami kanzashi pieces are intended to closely represent the plant or animal they depict; tsumami kanzashi depicting flowers are known as hana kanzashi (literally meaning "flower kanzashi").

Hana kanzashi are usually made from a cluster of tsumami kanzashi flowers, and may include bira-bira-style strips of metal or long streamers of petals dangling from the main kanzashi piece. Maiko are well-known for wearing hana kanzashi that are typically larger than average.

Generally, hana kanzashi are worn in pairs, one on either side of the head, often with a complementary kushi. The flowers are glued to backings of metal or cardboard that are attached to a wire and are bunched together to make bouquets and other arrangements. Additional detailing of stamens is created by the use of mizuhiki, a strong, thin twine made from washi paper, often coloured and used for decorative works.

Geisha, and especially maiko, wear different hana kanzashi for each month of the year.

Seasonal tsumami kanzashi motifs

[edit]

Hana kanzashi are highly seasonal, though typically the only people in Japan who follow the seasons closely enough to register seasonal changes are geisha and their apprentices. Since maiko wear more elaborate kanzashi than their senior geisha, seasonal changes are even more important for them.

  • January – The design of January kanzashi usually has an auspicious New Years' theme. Shōchikubai is a popular choice – a combination of pine (shō), bamboo (chiku) and plum blossoms (bai) in green, red and white. Other popular motifs are sparrows (suzume), spinning tops and battledore paddles (hagoita).
  • February – Usually trailing deep pink or red plum blossoms, said to symbolise young love and the approach of spring. Another less common theme is the pinwheel and the flowerball (kusudama) that is worn for Setsubun.
  • March – Trailing yellow and white rapeseed flowers (nanohana) and butterflies, as well as peach blossoms (momo), narcissus (suisen), camellia (tsubaki) and peonies (botan). A rare kanzashi featuring dolls that are used to celebrate the Hina Matsuri (Girl's Day Festival) can also be seen during this month.
  • April – Trailing soft pink cherry blossoms (sakura) mixed with butterflies and bonbori lanterns, signalling the approach of summer. Cherry blossom viewing at this time of year is a major cultural event in Japan. Kanzashi consisting of a single silver (or sometimes gold) butterfly (cho) made of mizuhiki cord are common.
  • May – Trailing purple wisteria (fuji) and flag irises (ayame), usually in blue or pink. Irises denote the height of spring while wisteria is a flower often associated with the Imperial Court (wisteria viewing parties have been celebrated by Japanese nobles since the Heian period).
  • June – Trailing green willow (yanagi) leaves with carnations/pinks (nadeshiko), or less commonly hydrangea (ajisai) flowers. This month is the rainy season in Japan, and therefore willow (a water-loving tree) and blue hydrangeas are appropriate.
  • July – Kanzashi featuring a display of fans (usually round uchiwa fans, but occasionally folding sensu fans) are featured. The fans refer to the Gion Festival which takes place at this time. The motifs featured on a maiko's fan kanzashi vary each year, in line with the festival. There are common themes such as dragonflies and lines denoting swirling water. Other kanzashi worn during July are fireworks kanzashi and dewdrops on grass (tsuyushiba).
  • August – Large morning glory (asagao) or susuki grass. The susuki grass appears as a starburst of spines made of silvered paper. Senior maiko wear white-backed silver petals and junior maiko wear pink-backed silver petals.
  • September – Japanese bellflower (kikyō). The purple tones are traditionally associated with autumn. Often these will be mixed with bush clover.
  • October – Chrysanthemum (kiku). These are well loved in Japan and are a symbol of the Imperial Family. Senior maiko will wear one large flower while junior maiko will wear a cluster of small flowers. Typical colours include pink, white, red, yellow, and purple.
  • November – Trailing autumnal leaves that are usually composed of the very popular Japanese maple. Maple viewing is the autumnal equivalent of cherry blossom viewing in Japan. Ginkgo and liquidambar leaves are also seen.
  • December – The Japanese make mochi at this time of year, and often decorate trees with them to represent white flowers. It is thought to be good luck to wear kanzashi featuring mochibana, or rice-cake flowers. December kanzashi also feature two maneki, name plates used by kabuki actors, which are initially blank. Traditionally, maiko visit the Minamiza Theatre and ask two of their favourite kabuki actors to autograph them with their kabuki nom de plume. Kanzashi for senior maiko feature green bamboo leaves while junior maiko have a colourful assortment of lucky charms.
  • New Year – At this time of year all maiko and geisha wear un-husked ears of rice in their hairstyles (maiko wear it on the right while geisha wear it on the left). These kanzashi also feature eyeless white doves. The maiko and geisha fill in one eye and ask somebody they like to draw the other for good luck in the coming year.

See also

[edit]

References

[edit]
  1. ^ Sherrow, Victoria (2006). Encyclopedia of hair : a cultural history. Westport, Conn.: Greenwood Press. pp. 221–222. ISBN 0-313-33145-6. OCLC 61169697.
  2. ^ "Tokyo's Traditional Craft Associations". Retrieved on 14 February 2012. Archived 17 February 2011 at the Wayback Machine
  3. ^ "Combs". traditionalkyoto.com. Traditional Kyoto. Archived from the original on 17 June 2020. Retrieved 16 July 2020.
  4. ^ Nakata Hiroko. "MUSEUM MUSINGS: Craftsmen keep alive hair ornaments that were all the rage in Edo Period", The Japan Times, 27 April 2002, retrieved 14 February 2012.
  5. ^ "Photos: The traditional decorative touch" Archived 2011-01-20 at the Wayback Machine, The Mainichi Daily News, 10 July 2010, retrieved 14 February 2012.
  6. ^ "Ryoko"; English translation by Kevin Mcgue. "Yonuko's Beautiful Hair Pins: Make New From Old". PingMag, 12 June 2008, retrieved 15 February 2012.
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