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{{Short description|Fashion accessory}}
[[File:Woman's Spitalfields silk damask shoes with buckles 1740s.jpg|right|thumb|250px|Woman's silk damask shoes with buckles, 1740-1750, England. [[Los Angeles County Museum of Art]], M.81.71.1a-b.]]
[[File:Woman's Spitalfields silk damask shoes with buckles 1740s.jpg|right|thumb|Woman's silk damask shoes with buckles, 1740–1750, England. [[Los Angeles County Museum of Art]], M.81.71.1a-b.]]


'''Shoe buckles''' are [[fashion accessory|fashion accessories]] worn by men and women from the mid-17th century through the 18th century. Shoe buckles were made of a variety of materials including [[brass]], [[steel]], [[silver]] or [[silver gilt]], and buckles for formal wear were set with [[diamond]]s, [[quartz]] or [[rhinestone|imitation jewels]].<ref name="Takeda">Takeda and Spilker (2010), p. 183</ref>
'''Shoe buckles''' are [[fashion accessory|fashion accessories]] worn by men and women from the mid-17th century through the 18th century to the 19th century. Shoe buckles were made of a variety of materials including [[brass]], [[steel]], [[silver]] or [[silver gilt]], and buckles for formal wear were set with [[diamond]]s, [[quartz]] or [[rhinestone|imitation jewels]].<ref name="Takeda">Takeda and Spilker (2010), p. 183</ref>


==History==
Buckled shoes began to replace tied shoes in the mid-17th century:<ref>Tortora and Eubank (1995), p. 190</ref> [[Samuel Pepys]] wrote in his ''Diary'' for 22 January 1660 "This day I began to put on buckles to my shoes, which I have bought yesterday of Mr. Wotton."<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.pepysdiary.com/archive/1660/01/22/|title=The Diary of Samuel Pepys|accessdate=16 April 2011}}</ref> Separate buckles remained fashionable until they were abandoned along with [[high-heeled footwear]] and other [[Aristocracy (class)|aristocratic]] fashions in the years after the [[French Revolution]],<ref>Tortora and Eubank (1995), p. 272</ref> although they were retained as part of ceremonial and [[court uniform and dress|court dress]] until well into the 20th century.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O78521/shoe-buckles/|title=Victoria and Albert Museum: Shoe Buckles|accessdate=20 April 2011}}</ref>
Buckled shoes began to replace tied shoes in the mid-17th century:<ref>Tortora and Eubank (1995), p. 190</ref> [[Samuel Pepys]] wrote in his ''Diary'' for 22 January 1660 "This day I began to put on buckles to my shoes, which I have bought yesterday of Mr. Wotton."<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.pepysdiary.com/archive/1660/01/22/|title=The Diary of Samuel Pepys|access-date=16 April 2011}}</ref> The fashion at first remained uncommon enough though that even in 1693 a writer to a newspaper complained of the new fashion of buckles replacing ribbons for fastening shoes and [[knee band]]s.<ref name=Clifford18>{{cite book |last=Clifford |first=Anne |date=1971 |title=Cut-Steel and Berlin Iron Jewellery |publisher=Adams & Dart |pages=18–19 |isbn=9780239000699}}</ref> Separate buckles remained fashionable until they were abandoned along with [[high-heeled footwear]] and other [[Aristocracy (class)|aristocratic]] fashions in the years after the [[French Revolution]],<ref>Tortora and Eubank (1995), p. 272</ref> although they were retained as part of ceremonial and [[Court uniform and dress in the United Kingdom|court dress]] until well into the 20th century.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O78521/shoe-buckles/|title=Victoria and Albert Museum: Shoe Buckles|access-date=20 April 2011}}</ref> In Britain in 1791 an attempt was made by buckle manufactures to stop the change in fashion by appealing to the then Prince of Wales [[George IV of the United Kingdom|Prince George]].<ref name=Clifford18 /> While the prince did start to require them for his court, this didn't stop the decline of the shoe buckle.<ref name=Clifford18 /> It has been suggested that the decline drove the manufacturers of steel buckles to diversify into producing a range of [[cut steel jewellery]].<ref name=Clifford18 />


== Knee buckle ==
<gallery>
Knee buckles are used to fasten the [[knee-high boots]] just below the level of the knee.

== Gallery ==
<gallery mode=packed heights=180>
File:Man's shoe buckles c. 1777-1785.jpg|Man's steel and gilt wire shoe buckles, England, c. 1777–1785 [[Los Angeles County Museum of Art|LACMA]] M.80.92.6a-b.
File:Man's shoe buckles c. 1777-1785.jpg|Man's steel and gilt wire shoe buckles, England, c. 1777–1785 [[Los Angeles County Museum of Art|LACMA]] M.80.92.6a-b.
File:Woman's shoe buckles with paste stones 1780-85.jpg|Woman's silver and steel shoe buckles with paste stones, 1780–85. LACMA M.80.92.1a-b
File:Woman's shoe buckles with paste stones 1780-85.jpg|Woman's silver and steel shoe buckles with paste stones, 1780–85. LACMA M.80.92.1a-b
Line 11: Line 17:
File:Man's steel shoe buckles 1780s.jpg|Man's cut steel shoe buckles, United States, 1780s. LACMA 42.16.23a-b.
File:Man's steel shoe buckles 1780s.jpg|Man's cut steel shoe buckles, United States, 1780s. LACMA 42.16.23a-b.
</gallery>
</gallery>

==See also==
==See also==
* [[One, Two, Buckle My Shoe]]
* [[1700–1750 in fashion]]
* [[1700–1750 in fashion]]
* [[1750–1775 in fashion]]
* [[1750–1775 in fashion]]
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==References==
==References==
{{commonscat|Shoe buckles}}
{{commons category|Shoe buckles}}
*Takeda, Sharon Sadako, and Kaye Durland Spilker, ''Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700 - 1915'', Prestel USA (2010), ISBN 978-3-7913-5062-2
*Takeda, Sharon Sadako, and Kaye Durland Spilker, ''Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700 - 1915'', Prestel USA (2010), {{ISBN|978-3-7913-5062-2}}
* Tortora, Phyllis G. and Keith Eubank. ''Survey of Historic Costume''. 2nd Edition, 1994. Fairchild Publications. ISBN 0-563-67003-8 {{Please check ISBN|reason=Check digit (8) does not correspond to calculated figure.}}
* Tortora, Phyllis G. and Keith Eubank. ''Survey of Historic Costume''. 2nd Edition, 1994. Fairchild Publications. {{ISBN|1-563-67003-8}}
{{Historical clothing}}
{{Footwear}}


{{Historical clothing|state=expanded}}
[[Category:Footwear accessories]]
[[Category:Footwear accessories]]
[[Category:Types of jewellery]]
[[Category:Types of jewellery]]
[[Category:17th-century fashion]]
[[Category:18th-century fashion]]
[[Category:19th-century fashion]]
[[Category:Maritime culture]]

Latest revision as of 18:25, 25 April 2024

Woman's silk damask shoes with buckles, 1740–1750, England. Los Angeles County Museum of Art, M.81.71.1a-b.

Shoe buckles are fashion accessories worn by men and women from the mid-17th century through the 18th century to the 19th century. Shoe buckles were made of a variety of materials including brass, steel, silver or silver gilt, and buckles for formal wear were set with diamonds, quartz or imitation jewels.[1]

History

[edit]

Buckled shoes began to replace tied shoes in the mid-17th century:[2] Samuel Pepys wrote in his Diary for 22 January 1660 "This day I began to put on buckles to my shoes, which I have bought yesterday of Mr. Wotton."[3] The fashion at first remained uncommon enough though that even in 1693 a writer to a newspaper complained of the new fashion of buckles replacing ribbons for fastening shoes and knee bands.[4] Separate buckles remained fashionable until they were abandoned along with high-heeled footwear and other aristocratic fashions in the years after the French Revolution,[5] although they were retained as part of ceremonial and court dress until well into the 20th century.[6] In Britain in 1791 an attempt was made by buckle manufactures to stop the change in fashion by appealing to the then Prince of Wales Prince George.[4] While the prince did start to require them for his court, this didn't stop the decline of the shoe buckle.[4] It has been suggested that the decline drove the manufacturers of steel buckles to diversify into producing a range of cut steel jewellery.[4]

Knee buckle

[edit]

Knee buckles are used to fasten the knee-high boots just below the level of the knee.

[edit]
  • Man's steel and gilt wire shoe buckles, England, c. 1777–1785 LACMA M.80.92.6a-b.
    Man's steel and gilt wire shoe buckles, England, c. 1777–1785 LACMA M.80.92.6a-b.
  • Woman's silver and steel shoe buckles with paste stones, 1780–85. LACMA M.80.92.1a-b
    Woman's silver and steel shoe buckles with paste stones, 1780–85. LACMA M.80.92.1a-b
  • Man's shoe buckles with case. Paste stones with gilded-copper-alloy trim on silver and steel, France, c. 1785. LACMA M.2007.211.829a-b.
    Man's shoe buckles with case. Paste stones with gilded-copper-alloy trim on silver and steel, France, c. 1785. LACMA M.2007.211.829a-b.
  • Man's cut steel shoe buckles, United States, 1780s. LACMA 42.16.23a-b.
    Man's cut steel shoe buckles, United States, 1780s. LACMA 42.16.23a-b.

See also

[edit]

Notes

[edit]
  1. ^ Takeda and Spilker (2010), p. 183
  2. ^ Tortora and Eubank (1995), p. 190
  3. ^ "The Diary of Samuel Pepys". Retrieved 16 April 2011.
  4. ^ a b c d Clifford, Anne (1971). Cut-Steel and Berlin Iron Jewellery. Adams & Dart. pp. 18–19. ISBN 9780239000699.
  5. ^ Tortora and Eubank (1995), p. 272
  6. ^ "Victoria and Albert Museum: Shoe Buckles". Retrieved 20 April 2011.

References

[edit]
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Shoe buckles.
  • Takeda, Sharon Sadako, and Kaye Durland Spilker, Fashioning Fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700 - 1915, Prestel USA (2010), ISBN 978-3-7913-5062-2
  • Tortora, Phyllis G. and Keith Eubank. Survey of Historic Costume. 2nd Edition, 1994. Fairchild Publications. ISBN 1-563-67003-8
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