Dolman: Difference between revisions
→Fashionable dolman: Removing uncited statements/claims, more citations needed. Previous edit was copyvio from sewguide.com so rewriting as basically as possible. |
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{{Short description|Two types of garment}} |
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[[Image:Sultan ahmed III c.jpeg|thumb|200px|right|Sultan Ahmed III (1703-1730) and two followers wearing ''dolaman'' robes]] |
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{{Use dmy dates|date=October 2023}} |
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A '''dolman''' is either a military shirt, or a jacket decorated with braiding, first worn by Hungarian [[hussar]]s. The word is of Turkish origin, and after being adopted into Hungarian, has propagated to other languages. The garment was worn by peasants from the 16th century onward and eventually spread throughout the country, mainly within wealthy peasant circles. It reached people living in the poorest conditions only at the end of the 19th century. |
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A '''Dolman''' (from [[Turkish language|Turkish]] ''dolaman'' "robe" <ref>[http://www.bartleby.com/61/99/D0329900.html American Heritage Dictionary - Dolman entry]</ref>) is a type of [[clothing]]. Originally, the term referred to a long and loose [[garment]] with narrow [[sleeve]]s and an opening in the front. It was worn generally by the [[Turkish people|Turks]], and is not unlike a [[cassock]] in shape.<ref name="EB1911">{{EB1911|inline=1 |wstitle=Dolman |volume=8 |page=392}}</ref> |
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==Military dolman== |
==Military dolman== |
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The dolman entered Western culture via [[Hungary]] starting in the sixteenth and continuing on into the nineteenth centuries where Hungarian [[hussars]] developed it into an item of formal military dress uniform. The jacket was cut tight and short, and decorated with [[passementerie]] throughout. Under this was worn an embroidered shirt that was cut tightly to the waist and beneath which it the shirt flared out into a skirt that sometimes reached nearly to the knee in the ''[[csakora]]''-style. A decorated saber or sword hung from a [[barrel sash]] around the waist. The elaborate style of dress came to reflect cultural values with regard to romantic military patriotism.<ref name="LynchStrauss2014">{{cite book|author1=Annette Lynch|author2=Mitchell D. Strauss|title=Ethnic Dress in the United States: A Cultural Encyclopedia|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=tiEvBQAAQBAJ&pg=PA104|date=30 October 2014|publisher=Rowman & Littlefield Publishers|isbn=978-0-7591-2150-8|page=104}}</ref> |
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[[Image:Henry William Paget00a.jpg|thumb|200px|left|British hussar officer wearing a dolman, 1809]]The name "dolman" was also given to the uniform jacket worn by [[hussar]]s. The close fitting, short-cut coat was heavily braided. It was usually worn under a [[pelisse]], a similar coat but with fur trimming, usually worn slung over the left shoulder with the sleeves hanging loose.{{sfn|Chisholm|1911}} |
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A second garment called a [[pelisse]] was frequently worn over it: a similar coat but with fur trimming, most often worn slung over the left shoulder with the sleeves (if any) hanging loose.<ref>{{EB1911 |inline=1 |wstitle=Dolman |volume=8 |page=392}}</ref> |
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==Fashionable dolman== |
==Fashionable dolman== |
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In the 19th century, Western women's fashion, a dolman was a garment which was worn outdoors as a type of jacket-style covering. The dolman was a popular style of [[Mantle (clothing)|mantle]] worn by fashionable women in the 1870s and 1880s. |
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The unique construction of the dolman—cut in one piece with sleeves giving the effect of a wide cape-like structure<ref name=":0">{{Cite book |last1=Cummings |first1=Valerie |title=The Dictionary of Fashion History |last2=Cunnington |first2=C. W. |last3=Cunnington |first3=P. E. |publisher=Bloomsbury Academic |year=2017 |edition=2nd |location=London |pages=88–89}}</ref>—featured elements of a jacket suited to the new styles of garment worn beneath.<ref name=":1">{{Citation |title=Mantle |date=c. 1885 |url=https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O122401/mantle-unknown/ |access-date=30 July 2023}}</ref> Its shaping to the front (with elaborate draped sections) and back cut to emphasise the new [[bustle]] style of skirt, along with the construction of the dolman's bodice and shoulders, cemented its place as a fashionable garment.<ref name=":0" /> |
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A dolman is also an outer garment worn by ladies, with wide cape like arrangements instead of sleeves. It was a favourite style of [[mantle (clothing)|mantle]] worn by fashionable women in the 1870s and 80's. |
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Dolman were often made from silk velvet, fur, or wool for winter wear, and decorated with passementerie trimmings such as ribbons, fringing, beading, and tassels.<ref name=":1" /> Many surviving examples of dolman were made-up from [[Paisley shawls]] which had fallen out of fashion in their original form due to the shaping of the bustle skirt—the dolmans seen as better suited. |
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| ⚫ | A '''dolman sleeve''' is a sleeve set into a very low [[armscye]]; in fact, the armscye may extend to the waistline, in which case there will be no underarm seam in the blouse. Dolman sleeves were very popular in ladies clothing during the Civil War. They had the effect of making the shoulders look sloped therefore minimizing the appearance of the waist. The early 21st century dolman sleeve describes a sleeve cut as one with the bodice, which can taper to the wrist or be cut widely |
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The ''dolmanette'', of the 1890s was crocheted.<ref name=":0" /> |
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==Notes== |
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| ⚫ | A '''dolman sleeve''' is a sleeve set into a very low [[armscye]]; in fact, the armscye may extend to the waistline, in which case there will be no underarm seam in the blouse. Dolman sleeves were very popular in ladies clothing during the [[American Civil War|US Civil War]]. They had the effect of making the shoulders look sloped, therefore minimizing the appearance of the waist. The early 21st century dolman sleeve describes a sleeve cut as one with the bodice, which can taper to the wrist or be cut widely,<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://sewguide.com/dolman-sleeve-tunic-pattern/|title=Dolman sleeve tunic top- {FREE} Pattern|website=sewguide.com|date=20 May 2016 }}</ref> a style popularised from the 1930s, and remaining in fashion as the ''batwing sleeve''.<ref name=":0" /> |
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==Gallery== |
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<gallery widths="200px" heights="200px"> |
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Henry William Paget00a.jpg|British hussar officer wearing a dolman, 1809 |
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Chasseur à cheval 8938 contrasté.jpg|French cavalry dolman, c. 1900 |
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Dolman MET 33.191 front CP4.jpg|Dolman, wool and silk, presumably made from a recycled [[Paisley shawls|Paisley shawl]], c.1875. [[Metropolitan Museum of Art|The Metropolitan Museum of Art]] |
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Dolman MET CI39.29 B.jpg|Dolman, silk velvet, c.1880s. Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute: C.I.39.29. |
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</gallery> |
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==References== |
==References== |
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==External links== |
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{{Commonscatinline}} |
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[[Category:Coats (clothing)]] |
[[Category:Coats (clothing)]] |
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[[Category:History of Asian clothing]] |
[[Category:History of Asian clothing]] |
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[[Category:Clothing of the Ottoman Empire]] |
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[[Category:Mantles (clothing)]] |
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{{clothing-stub}} |
{{clothing-stub}} |
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Latest revision as of 00:51, 29 May 2024
A dolman is either a military shirt, or a jacket decorated with braiding, first worn by Hungarian hussars. The word is of Turkish origin, and after being adopted into Hungarian, has propagated to other languages. The garment was worn by peasants from the 16th century onward and eventually spread throughout the country, mainly within wealthy peasant circles. It reached people living in the poorest conditions only at the end of the 19th century.
Military dolman
[edit]The dolman entered Western culture via Hungary starting in the sixteenth and continuing on into the nineteenth centuries where Hungarian hussars developed it into an item of formal military dress uniform. The jacket was cut tight and short, and decorated with passementerie throughout. Under this was worn an embroidered shirt that was cut tightly to the waist and beneath which it the shirt flared out into a skirt that sometimes reached nearly to the knee in the csakora-style. A decorated saber or sword hung from a barrel sash around the waist. The elaborate style of dress came to reflect cultural values with regard to romantic military patriotism.[1]
A second garment called a pelisse was frequently worn over it: a similar coat but with fur trimming, most often worn slung over the left shoulder with the sleeves (if any) hanging loose.[2]
Fashionable dolman
[edit]In the 19th century, Western women's fashion, a dolman was a garment which was worn outdoors as a type of jacket-style covering. The dolman was a popular style of mantle worn by fashionable women in the 1870s and 1880s.
The unique construction of the dolman—cut in one piece with sleeves giving the effect of a wide cape-like structure[3]—featured elements of a jacket suited to the new styles of garment worn beneath.[4] Its shaping to the front (with elaborate draped sections) and back cut to emphasise the new bustle style of skirt, along with the construction of the dolman's bodice and shoulders, cemented its place as a fashionable garment.[3]
Dolman were often made from silk velvet, fur, or wool for winter wear, and decorated with passementerie trimmings such as ribbons, fringing, beading, and tassels.[4] Many surviving examples of dolman were made-up from Paisley shawls which had fallen out of fashion in their original form due to the shaping of the bustle skirt—the dolmans seen as better suited.
The dolmanette, of the 1890s was crocheted.[3]
A dolman sleeve is a sleeve set into a very low armscye; in fact, the armscye may extend to the waistline, in which case there will be no underarm seam in the blouse. Dolman sleeves were very popular in ladies clothing during the US Civil War. They had the effect of making the shoulders look sloped, therefore minimizing the appearance of the waist. The early 21st century dolman sleeve describes a sleeve cut as one with the bodice, which can taper to the wrist or be cut widely,[5] a style popularised from the 1930s, and remaining in fashion as the batwing sleeve.[3]
Gallery
[edit]-
19th century Hungarian dolman for court wear -
British hussar officer wearing a dolman, 1809 -
Woman's dolman mantle, front & back views. Harper's Bazaar, November 1871 -
French cavalry dolman, c. 1900 -
Dolman, wool and silk, presumably made from a recycled Paisley shawl, c.1875. The Metropolitan Museum of Art -
Dolman, silk velvet, c.1880s. Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute: C.I.39.29.
References
[edit]- ^ Annette Lynch; Mitchell D. Strauss (30 October 2014). Ethnic Dress in the United States: A Cultural Encyclopedia. Rowman & Littlefield Publishers. p. 104. ISBN 978-0-7591-2150-8.
- ^ One or more of the preceding sentences incorporates text from a publication now in the public domain: Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Dolman". Encyclopædia Britannica. Vol. 8 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 392.
- ^ a b c d Cummings, Valerie; Cunnington, C. W.; Cunnington, P. E. (2017). The Dictionary of Fashion History (2nd ed.). London: Bloomsbury Academic. pp. 88–89.
- ^ a b Mantle, c. 1885, retrieved 30 July 2023
- ^ "Dolman sleeve tunic top- {FREE} Pattern". sewguide.com. 20 May 2016.
External links
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Media related to Dolmans at Wikimedia Commons
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