Andy Pollitt: Difference between revisions

Andy Pollitt
Personal information
Born	26 October 1963; Prestatyn, Wales.
Died	13 November 2019 (aged 56); Melbourne, Australia.
Education	Prestatyn High School
Climbing career
Type of climber	Traditional climbing, Sport climbing, Free solo climbing
Highest grade	Redpoint: 8b+ (5.14a); On-sight: E7 6c; ;
Known for	Pioneer professional British rock climber
First ascents	Hollow Man (E8 6b, 1986); Knockin' on Heaven's Door (E9 6c, 1988);

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Robert Andrew Pollitt (26 October 1963 – 13 November 2019) was a British rock climber who was one of the most prominent traditional climbers and sport climbers of the late 1980s and early 1990s. In 1992, after having successfully repeated Punks in the Gym in Australia, the world's first-ever 8b+ (5.14a) graded sport climbing routes, he quit climbing and permanently emigrated to Australia. In 2016, Pollitt published an autobiography, titled Punk in the Gym. He died from a cerebral aneurysm on 13 November 2019.^[1]

Early life

Andy Pollitt was born in Prestatyn, North Wales, on 26 October 1963.^[3] His father was an actor who had small parts in Z-Cars, Coronation Street, and Doctor Who before eventually leaving the family.^[1] Pollitt attended Prestatyn High School, which had an indoor climbing wall that Pollitt took to with enthusiasm, including school trips to nearby crags organized by his climbing teacher-mentor, Andy Boorman.^[4]

Climbing career

In the mid-1980s, Pollitt rose to prominence in Britain as a leading traditional climber, completing over 350 climbs, with important first ascents such as The Hollow Man (E8 6b, 1986), and Knockin' on Heaven's Door (E9 6c, 1988).^[2] Pollitt also repeated some of the most feared routes of the time including onsighting the second ascent of John Redhead's chop route, The Bells The Bells!, Britain's first E7-climb, in 1986.^[4]^[2]

In the early 1990s, Pollitt spent 44 days, spread over a two-year period,^[5] working on the sport climbing route, Punks in the Gym, the first-ever 8b+ (5.14a) graded route, which had been freed by Wolfgang Gullich in 1985.^[2]^[1] On 5 May 1992, Pollitt eventually succeeded and immediately decided to retire from climbing,^[6]^[3]^[4]

Legacy

Pollitt was renowned for the boldness of his routes and also for his distinctive fashion; he wore his hair long and sported bright, tight lycra, and often climbed bare-chested, giving him a "rockstar" status in climbing.^[3]^[2]^[5]

Pollitt was part of the mid-1980s wave of semi-professional rock climbers in Britain that followed on from Ron Fawcett – an idol of Pollitt's^[6] – who led the transition from traditional climbing to sport climbing in Britain and abroad; others included Jerry Moffatt, and Ben Moon.^[7]

Personal life

In 1993, Pollitt permanently moved to Australia where he worked as a successful and prominent rope access technician in Melbourne.^[6] Though Pollitt was considered a notorious ladies-man,^[6] he never married.^[1]

In the years before his death, Pollitt returned to his climbing past, publishing an autobiography under the title Punk in the Gym in 2016.^[8] In the book, Pollitt revealed that he suffered from bipolar disorder,^[4]^[9] and also talked about his long-standing addiction to alcohol; something which had held him back throughout his climbing career.^[6]

In November 2019, Pollitt suffered a cerebral aneurysm in a bar in Melbourne and never regained consciousness; he died on 13 November 2019.^[4]^[6]

Bibliography

Punk in the Gym, 2016, Vertebrate Publishing. ISBN 978-1910240694.

Filmography

Documentary on 1980s British sport climbing: Brown, Nick (director) (2019). Statement of Youth (Motion picture). UKC. Retrieved 23 March 2023.^[7]

Notable ascents

1984: Skinhead Moonstomp (E6 6b), Gogarth North Stack. First free ascent. One of the classics of Welsh climbing,^[2]^[10] and Pollitt's favourite FFA.^[11]
1986: The Bells, The Bells! (E7 6c), Gogarth North Stack. Second ascent, and first onsight ascent, of John Redhead's legendary chop route.^[2]^[6]
1986: The Hollow Man (E8 6b), Gogarth North Stack. First free ascent and the first-ever E8 in Wales; seconded by Johnny Dawes.^[2]
1987: Boot Boys (8a+), Raven Tor, Dovedale. First free ascent of a route that had only been aid climbed just two days earlier.^[3]
1988: Knockin' on Heaven's Door (E9 6c), Curbar Edge. First free ascent and the first-ever E9 on gritstone; considered "a last great problem".^[2]^[1]^[6]
1988: Thormen's Moth (8a), Thor's Cave, Peak District. First free ascent of an aid climbing roof route; Pollitt considered it one of his best lines.^[3]^[11]
1992 (5 May): Punks in the Gym (8b+), Mount Arapiles. Sixth ascent of the world's first-ever 8b+ (5.14a); Pollitt retired from climbing that day.^[2]^[6]

References

^ ^a ^b ^c ^d ^e ^f ^g ^h ⁱ ^j ^k ^l Obituaries (27 December 2019). "Maverick mountaineer tackled toughest climb". Sydney Morning Herald. Retrieved 27 March 2023.
^ ^a ^b ^c ^d ^e ^f ^g ^h ⁱ ^j Barns, Dave (14 November 2019). "Goodbye to British rock climbing icon Andy Pollitt". PlanetMountain. Retrieved 26 March 2023.
^ ^a ^b ^c ^d ^e Berry, Natalie (13 November 2019). "Andy Pollitt dies aged 56". UKClimbing. Retrieved 17 March 2023.
^ ^a ^b ^c ^d ^e Obituary (24 December 2019). "Andy Pollitt: the mountaineer who put rock'n'roll into climbing". The Telegraph. Retrieved 19 March 2023.
^ ^a ^b Barton, John (20 January 2020). "Climbers We Lost in 2019: Andy Pollitt". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 25 March 2023.
^ ^a ^b ^c ^d ^e ^f ^g ^h ⁱ Sterling, Sarah (19 November 2019). "Remembering Andy Pollitt". British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 23 March 2023.
^ ^a ^b "The Birth of British Sport Climbing in Statement of Youth". PlanetMountain. 22 May 2019. Retrieved 23 March 2023.
^ Greenwood, Robert (17 May 2016). "Punk in the Gym by Andy Pollitt Review". UK Climbing. Retrieved 19 March 2023.
^ Creese, Charlie (4 March 2020). "Remembering Andy Pollitt - Cars, Stars, Bars, Guitars". UK Climbing. Retrieved 19 March 2023.
^ "British Climber Andy Pollitt's Autobiography to be Published in 2016". Climber. 21 July 2016. Retrieved 23 March 2023.
^ ^a ^b Pretty, Mark (28 September 2017). "Mark 'Zippy' Pretty and Andy Pollitt Interview". UKClimbing. Retrieved 23 March 2023.

External links

VIDEO: Interview with Andy Pollitt at Mount Arapiles, Nine Network (1992)

[SMH-1] ^ ^a ^b ^c ^d ^e ^f ^g ^h ⁱ ^j ^k ^l Obituaries (27 December 2019). "Maverick mountaineer tackled toughest climb". Sydney Morning Herald. Retrieved 27 March 2023.

[PM-2] ^ ^a ^b ^c ^d ^e ^f ^g ^h ⁱ ^j Barns, Dave (14 November 2019). "Goodbye to British rock climbing icon Andy Pollitt". PlanetMountain. Retrieved 26 March 2023.

[UKC-3] Berry, Natalie (13 November 2019). "Andy Pollitt dies aged 56". UKClimbing. Retrieved 17 March 2023.

[TEL-4] Obituary (24 December 2019). "Andy Pollitt: the mountaineer who put rock'n'roll into climbing". The Telegraph. Retrieved 19 March 2023.

[CL1-5] Barton, John (20 January 2020). "Climbers We Lost in 2019: Andy Pollitt". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 25 March 2023.

[BMC-6] ^ ^a ^b ^c ^d ^e ^f ^g ^h ⁱ Sterling, Sarah (19 November 2019). "Remembering Andy Pollitt". British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 23 March 2023.

[PM2-7] "The Birth of British Sport Climbing in Statement of Youth". PlanetMountain. 22 May 2019. Retrieved 23 March 2023.

[UKC2-8] Greenwood, Robert (17 May 2016). "Punk in the Gym by Andy Pollitt Review". UK Climbing. Retrieved 19 March 2023.

[UKC3-9] Creese, Charlie (4 March 2020). "Remembering Andy Pollitt - Cars, Stars, Bars, Guitars". UK Climbing. Retrieved 19 March 2023.

[Climbr-10] "British Climber Andy Pollitt's Autobiography to be Published in 2016". Climber. 21 July 2016. Retrieved 23 March 2023.

[UKC4-11] Pretty, Mark (28 September 2017). "Mark 'Zippy' Pretty and Andy Pollitt Interview". UKClimbing. Retrieved 23 March 2023.

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@@ Line 9: / Line 9: @@
 | typeofclimber      = [[Traditional climbing]], [[Sport climbing]], [[Free solo climbing]]
 | highestredpoint    = {{Climbing grade|8b+}}<ref name=SMH/>
-| highestonsight     = [[Grade (climbing)|E7 6c]]<ref name=PM/>
+| highestonsight     = [[Grade (climbing)#British|E7 6c]]<ref name=PM/>
 | knownfor           = Pioneer professional British rock climber<ref name=SMH/>
 | firstascents       = {{ubl|''Hollow Man'' (E8 6b, 1986)|''Knockin' on Heaven's Door'' (E9 6c, 1988)}}
@@ Line 15: / Line 15: @@
 | majorascents       =
 }}
-'''Robert Andrew Pollitt''' (26 October 1963 – 13 November 2019) was a British [[rock climbing|rock climber]] who was one of the most prominent [[traditional climbing|traditional climbers]] of the late 1980s and early 1990s. In 1993, Pollitt emigrated to Australia, where he successfully climbed ''Punks in the Gym'', one of the world's hardest-ever [[sport climbing]] routes, after which he quit climbing. In 2016, Pollitt published an autobiography, titled ''Punk in the Gym''. He died from a [[cerebral aneurysm]] on 13 November 2019.<ref name=SMH/>
+'''Robert Andrew Pollitt''' (26 October 1963 – 13 November 2019) was a British [[rock climbing|rock climber]] who was one of the most prominent [[traditional climbing|traditional climbers]] and [[sport climbing|sport climbers]] of the late 1980s and early 1990s. In 1992, after having successfully repeated ''Punks in the Gym'' in Australia, the world's [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by men|first-ever]] {{climbing grade|8b+}} graded [[sport climbing]] routes, he quit climbing and permanently emigrated to Australia. In 2016, Pollitt published an autobiography, titled ''Punk in the Gym''. He died from a [[cerebral aneurysm]] on 13 November 2019.<ref name=SMH/>
 == Early life ==
-Andy Pollitt was born in [[Prestatyn]], North Wales on 26 October 1963.<ref name=UKC/>  His father was an actor who had small parts in [[Z-Cars]], [[Coronation Street]], and [[Doctor Who]] before eventually leaving the family.<ref name=SMH/>  Pollitt attended [[Prestatyn High School]], which had an indoor [[climbing wall]] that Pollitt took to with enthusiasm, including school trips to nearby [[Glossary of climbing terms#crag|crags]] organised by his climbing teacher-mentor, Andy Boorman.<ref name=TEL>{{Cite web |date=24 December 2019 |title=Andy Pollitt: the mountaineer who put rock'n'roll into climbing |url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/obituaries/2019/12/24/andy-pollitt-maverick-mountaineer-put-rocknroll-climbing-obituary/ |url-access=subscription |url-status=live |access-date=19 March 2023 |website=[[The Daily Telegraph|The Telegraph]] | author=Obituary}}</ref>
+Andy Pollitt was born in [[Prestatyn]], North Wales, on 26 October 1963.<ref name=UKC/>  His father was an actor who had small parts in [[Z-Cars]], [[Coronation Street]], and [[Doctor Who]] before eventually leaving the family.<ref name=SMH/>  Pollitt attended [[Prestatyn High School]], which had an indoor [[climbing wall]] that Pollitt took to with enthusiasm, including school trips to nearby [[Glossary of climbing terms#crag|crags]] organized by his climbing teacher-mentor, Andy Boorman.<ref name=TEL>{{Cite web |date=24 December 2019 |title=Andy Pollitt: the mountaineer who put rock'n'roll into climbing |url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/obituaries/2019/12/24/andy-pollitt-maverick-mountaineer-put-rocknroll-climbing-obituary/ |url-access=subscription |access-date=19 March 2023 |website=[[The Daily Telegraph|The Telegraph]] | author=Obituary}}</ref>
 == Climbing career ==
-[[File:Punks Wall (29529972985).jpg|thumb|Climber on ''Punks in the Gym'']]
+[[File:Punks Wall (29529972985).jpg|thumb|Climber nearing the top of ''Punks in the Gym'' 32 {{climbing grade|8b+}}]]
-In the mid-1980s, Pollitt rose to prominence in Britain as a leading [[traditional climbing|traditional climber]], completing over 350 climbs, with important [[first ascents]] such as ''The Hollow Man'' (E8 6b), and ''Knockin' on Heaven's Door'' (E9 6c).<ref name=PM/> Pollitt also repeated some of the most feared routes of the time including [[onsight]]ing the second ascent of [[John Redhead]]'s ''The Bells The Bells!'', Britain's first-ever [[Grade (climbing)|E7]]-graded climb.<ref name="TEL" /><ref name=PM/>
+In the mid-1980s, Pollitt rose to prominence in Britain as a leading [[traditional climbing|traditional climber]], completing over 350 climbs, with important [[first ascents]] such as ''The Hollow Man'' ([[Grade (climbing)#British|E8 6b]], 1986), and ''Knockin' on Heaven's Door'' ([[Grade (climbing)#British|E9 6c]], 1988).<ref name=PM/> Pollitt also repeated some of the most feared routes of the time including [[onsight]]ing the second ascent of [[John Redhead]]'s [[Glossary of climbing terms#chop route|chop route]], ''The Bells The Bells!'', Britain's first [[Grade (climbing)#British|E7-climb]], in 1986.<ref name="TEL" /><ref name=PM/>
-In the early 1990s, Pollitt spent several months, spread over a two-year period, working on the [[sport climbing]] route, ''Punks in the Gym'', the [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by men|first-ever]] {{climbing grade|8b+}} graded route, which had been freed by [[Wolfgang Gullich]] in 1985.<ref name=PM/><ref name=SMH/> On 5 May 1992, Pollitt eventually succeeded and immediately decided to retire from climbing,<ref name=BMC/><ref name="UKC" /><ref name="TEL" />
+In the early 1990s, Pollitt spent 44 days, spread over a two-year period,<ref name=CL1>{{cite web | magazine=[[Rock & Ice]] | url=https://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/climbers-we-lost-2019/ | title=Climbers We Lost in 2019: Andy Pollitt | date=20 January 2020 | accessdate=25 March 2023 | first=John | last=Barton}}</ref> working on the [[sport climbing]] route, ''Punks in the Gym'', the [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by men|first-ever]] {{climbing grade|8b+}} graded route, which had been freed by [[Wolfgang Gullich]] in 1985.<ref name=PM/><ref name=SMH/> On 5 May 1992, Pollitt eventually succeeded and immediately decided to retire from climbing,<ref name=BMC/><ref name="UKC" /><ref name="TEL" />
 ==Legacy==
-Pollitt was renowned for the boldness of his routes and also for his distinctive fashion; he wore his hair long and sported bright, tight lycra, and often climbed bare-chested, giving him a "rockstar" image.<ref name="UKC" /><ref name=PM/>  He was part of the wave of semi-professional rock climbers in Britain that followed on from [[Ron Fawcett]], who was an idol of Pollitt's.<ref name=BMC/>
+Pollitt was renowned for the boldness of his routes and also for his distinctive fashion; he wore his hair long and sported bright, tight lycra, and often climbed bare-chested, giving him a "rockstar" status in climbing.<ref name="UKC" /><ref name=PM/><ref name=CL1/>
+Pollitt was part of the mid-1980s wave of semi-professional rock climbers in Britain that followed on from [[Ron Fawcett]] – an idol of Pollitt's<ref name=BMC/> – who led the transition from [[traditional climbing]] to [[sport climbing]] in Britain and abroad; others included [[Jerry Moffatt]], and [[Ben Moon (climber)|Ben Moon]].<ref name=PM2/>
 == Personal life ==
-In 1993, Pollitt permanently moved to Australia where he worked as a [[rope access]] technician in [[Melbourne]].<ref name=BMC/>
+In 1993, Pollitt permanently moved to Australia where he worked as a successful and prominent [[rope access]] technician in [[Melbourne]].<ref name=BMC/>  Though Pollitt was considered a notorious ladies-man,<ref name=BMC/> he never married.<ref name=SMH/>
-In the years before his death, Pollitt returned to his climbing past, publishing an autobiography under the title ''Punk in the Gym'' in 2016.<ref name=UKC2>{{Cite web |last=Greenwood |first=Robert |date=17 May 2016 |title=Punk in the Gym by Andy Pollitt Review |url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/publications/other_publications/punk_in_the_gym_by_andy_pollitt-8391 |url-status=live |access-date=19 March 2023 |website=UK Climbing}}</ref> In the book, Pollitt revealed that he suffered from [[bipolar disorder]].<ref name="TEL" /><ref name=UKC3>{{Cite web |last=Creese |first=Charlie |date=4 March 2020 |title=Remembering Andy Pollitt - Cars, Stars, Bars, Guitars |url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/remembering_andy_pollitt_-_cars_stars_bars_guitars-12649 |url-status=live |access-date=19 March 2023 |website=UK Climbing}}</ref>
+In the years before his death, Pollitt returned to his climbing past, publishing an autobiography under the title ''Punk in the Gym'' in 2016.<ref name=UKC2>{{Cite web |last=Greenwood |first=Robert |date=17 May 2016 |title=Punk in the Gym by Andy Pollitt Review |url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/publications/other_publications/punk_in_the_gym_by_andy_pollitt-8391 |access-date=19 March 2023 |website=UK Climbing}}</ref> In the book, Pollitt revealed that he suffered from [[bipolar disorder]],<ref name="TEL" /><ref name=UKC3>{{Cite web |last=Creese |first=Charlie |date=4 March 2020 |title=Remembering Andy Pollitt - Cars, Stars, Bars, Guitars |url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/remembering_andy_pollitt_-_cars_stars_bars_guitars-12649 |access-date=19 March 2023 |website=UK Climbing}}</ref> and also talked about his long-standing addiction to alcohol; something which had held him back throughout his climbing career.<ref name=BMC/>
-In November 2019, Pollitt suffered a [[cerebral aneurysm]] whilst standing in a bar and never regained consciousness; he died on 13 November 2019.<ref name="TEL" /><ref name=BMC/>
+In November 2019, Pollitt suffered a [[cerebral aneurysm]] in a bar in Melbourne and never regained consciousness; he died on 13 November 2019.<ref name="TEL" /><ref name=BMC/>
 ==Bibliography==
 *''Punk in the Gym'', 2016, Vertebrate Publishing. {{ISBN|978-1910240694}}.
+== Filmography==
+* Documentary on 1980s British sport climbing: {{cite AV media | title=Statement of Youth | asin= | type=Motion picture| date=2019| publisher=UKC  | people=Brown, Nick (director) | url=https://www.mntnfilm.com/en/film/statement-of-youth-2019 | accessdate=23 March 2023}}<ref name=PM2>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain| url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/the-birth-of-british-sport-climbing-in-statement-of-youth.html | date=22 May 2019 | accessdate=23 March 2023 | title=The Birth of British Sport Climbing in Statement of Youth}}</ref>
 ==Notable ascents==
@@ Line 45: / Line 50: @@
 * 1986: ''The Bells, The Bells!'' (E7 6c), [[North Stack|Gogarth North Stack]]. Second ascent, and first [[onsight]] ascent, of [[John Redhead]]'s legendary [[Glossary of climbing terms#chop route|chop route]].<ref name=PM>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | first=Dave | last=Barns | date=14 November 2019 | accessdate=26 March 2023 | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/goodby-to-british-rock-climbing-icon-andy-pollitt.html | title=Goodbye to British rock climbing icon Andy Pollitt}}</ref><ref name=BMC/>
 * 1986: ''The Hollow Man'' (E8 6b), [[North Stack|Gogarth North Stack]]. First free ascent and the first-ever E8 in Wales; seconded by [[Johnny Dawes]].<ref name=PM/>
-* 1987: ''Boot Boys'' (8a+), [[Dovedale#Limestone formations|Raven Tor, Dovedale]]. First free ascent of a route that had only been [[aid climbing|aid climbed]] just two days earlier.<ref name=UKC>{{Cite web |last=Berry |first=Natalie |date=13 November 2019 |title=Andy Pollitt dies aged 56 |url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/11/andy_pollitt_dies_aged_56-72126 |url-status=live |access-date=17 March 2023 |website=UKClimbing}}</ref>
+* 1987: ''Boot Boys'' (8a+), [[Dovedale#Limestone formations|Raven Tor, Dovedale]]. First free ascent of a route that had only been [[aid climbing|aid climbed]] just two days earlier.<ref name=UKC>{{Cite web |last=Berry |first=Natalie |date=13 November 2019 |title=Andy Pollitt dies aged 56 |url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/11/andy_pollitt_dies_aged_56-72126 |access-date=17 March 2023 |website=UKClimbing}}</ref>
 * 1988: ''Knockin' on Heaven's Door'' (E9 6c), [[Curbar Edge]]. First free ascent and the first-ever E9 on [[gritstone]]; considered "a last great problem".<ref name=PM/><ref name=SMH>{{cite web | newspaper=[[Sydney Morning Herald]] | url=https://www.smh.com.au/national/maverick-mountaineer-tackled-toughest-climb-20191227-p53n5z.html | title=Maverick mountaineer tackled toughest climb | author=Obituaries | date=27 December 2019 | accessdate=27 March 2023}}</ref><ref name=BMC>{{cite web | website=[[British Mountaineering Council]] | url=https://www.thebmc.co.uk/remembering-andy-pollitt | first=Sarah | last=Sterling | date=19 November 2019 | accessdate=23 March 2023 | title=Remembering Andy Pollitt}}</ref>
 * 1988: ''Thormen's Moth'' (8a), [[Thor's Cave]], [[Peak District]]. First free ascent of an [[aid climbing]] roof route; Pollitt considered it one of his best lines.<ref name=UKC/><ref name=UKC4>{{cite web  | website=UKClimbing | first=Mark | last=Pretty | url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/mark_zippy_pretty_and_andy_pollitt-9762 | title=Mark 'Zippy' Pretty and Andy Pollitt Interview | date=28 September 2017 | accessdate=23 March 2023}}</ref>
@@ Line 59: / Line 64: @@
 == External links==
-*[https://www.thebmc.co.uk/remembering-andy-pollitt Remembering Andy Pollitt], [[British Mountaineering Council]] (2019)
+*[https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/categories/trad_climbing/andy_pollitt_at_mount_arapiles-2620 VIDEO: Interview with Andy Pollitt at Mount Arapiles], [[Nine Network]] (1992)
 {{Authority control}}
-{{DEFAULTSORT:Politt, Andy}}
+{{DEFAULTSORT:Pollitt, Andy}}
 [[Category:1963 births]]
 [[Category:2019 deaths]]
@@ Line 71: / Line 76: @@
 [[Category:21st-century British male writers]]
 [[Category:British non-fiction outdoors writers]]
+[[Category:Climbing and mountaineering writers]]

Authority control databases
International	VIAF
National	United States