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{{Use dmy dates|date=February 2021}}
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{{Infobox Person

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| image = Jean Troillet.jpg
{{Short description|Swiss mountaineer}}
| caption = Jean Troillet
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{{Infobox person
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| birth_date = {{birth date and age|1948|03|10}}
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| image = Jean Troillet.jpg
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| birth_place = [[Orsières]], [[Valais]]<br> [[Switzerland]]
| spouse = Mireille Troillet
| caption = Jean Troillet
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| birth_date = {{birth date and age|df=yes|1948|03|10}}
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| website = http://www.troillet.ch/
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| birth_place = [[Orsières]], [[Valais]], [[Switzerland]]
| known_for = Fastest speed ascent of Mount Everest
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| spouse = Mireille Troillet
| children = 1, Gustine
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| website = http://www.troillet.ch/
}}
}}


'''Jean Troillet''' was born 10 March 1948 at [[Orsieres]] and lives at [[La Fouly]] in [[Valais]].
'''Jean Troillet''' (born 10 March 1948) is a professional mountain climber.


Of [[Swiss]] and [[Canadian]] nationality, he obtained his [[mountain guide]] qualifications in 1969. He has climbed ten peaks of more than 8000 metres, all in [[alpine style]] and without oxygen.
Of [[Switzerland|Swiss]] and [[Canadians|Canadian]] nationality, he obtained his [[mountain guide]] qualifications in 1969. That year, at the age of 21, he set a speed record for an ascent of the [[Matterhorn]] of four hours and ten minutes.<ref>{{cite web|last1=Sampiero|first1=Josh|title=Dani Arnold's speed ascent of the Matterhorn North Face beats Ueli Steck for a new world record.|url=http://www.redbull.com/uk/en/adventure/stories/1331721067560/dani-arnold-speed-ascent-matterhorn|website=redbull.com|accessdate=24 November 2015}}</ref> He has climbed 10 peaks of more than 8000 meters, all in [[alpine style]] and without oxygen.


Together with [[Erhard Loretan]], Troillet climbed [[Everest]] in 1986. The pair holds the speed record for the ascent of [[Everest]] by the North Face, 43 hours to the summit and back.<ref>{{Cite web |title=The record-breaker of Himalaya – Lukarn |url=https://lukarn.fr/en/program/the-record-breaker-of-himalaya/ |access-date=2024-07-10 |language=en-GB}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=AAC Publications - Asia, China, Everest, The Hornbein Couloir Direct from Tibet |url=http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198730200/Asia-China-Everest-The-Hornbein-Couloir-Direct-from-Tibet |access-date=2024-07-10 |website=publications.americanalpineclub.org}}</ref>
Troillet climbed [[Everest]] in 1986. In 1997 he was the first man to descend from the roof of the world on a [[snowboard]], although he did not ride down from the top <ref>Mt Everest, Tibet, Himalaya
8'848 m., face nord, altitude atteinte 8'400 m. puis descente en snowboard (première) [http://bio.troillet.ch/fr/expeditions.html]</ref> .


In 1997, he returned to Everest to make the first snowboard descent from the world's tallest mountain. After summitting without supplementary oxygen, he began his descent at 28,500 feet.<ref>Mt Everest, Tibet, Himalaya
[[Mountain guide]], and [[seafarer]], he was the shipmate of [[Laurent Bourgnon]] on board ''Primagaz''.
8'848 m., face nord, altitude atteinte 8'400 m. puis descente en snowboard (première) [http://bio.troillet.ch/fr/expeditions.html] {{Webarchive|url=http://archive.wikiwix.com/cache/20110501144802/http://bio.troillet.ch/fr/expeditions.html|date=1 May 2011}}</ref> The ride set an unprecedented altitude record at the time, although was a bit more than 500 feet below the actual summit.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web |last=ncs-import |title=Swiss-Canadian not interested in matching record, has moved onto other things |url=http://www.recordcourier.com/news/2003/apr/10/swiss-canadian-not-interested-in-matching-record-h/ |access-date=2024-07-10 |website=www.recordcourier.com}}</ref>


In the 1990s, he began sailing.<ref name=":0" />
[[Photographer]] for Animan and [[heli-skiing]] guide.


In 2001, Troillet, [[Mike Horn]] and [[Erhard Loretan]] attempted to cross [[Greenland]] on skis pulled by kites for a world record attempt. Poor winds prevented their attempt.<ref>{{Cite web |last=swissinfo.ch |first=S. W. I. |date=2001-05-18 |title=Swiss adventurers abandon Greenland record attempt |url=https://www.swissinfo.ch/eng/life-aging/swiss-adventurers-abandon-greenland-record-attempt/2047072 |access-date=2024-07-10 |website=SWI swissinfo.ch |language=en-GB}}</ref>
Together with [[Erhard Loretan]], Troillet holds the speed record for the ascent of [[Everest]] by the North Face, that is, 43 hours to the summit and back.


In 2009, he completed a new route on the north face of the [[Matterhorn]].<ref>{{Cite web |date=2009-07-28 |title=New Route on Matterhorn North Face |url=https://www.climbing.com/news/new-route-on-matterhorn-north-face/ |access-date=2024-07-10 |website=Climbing |language=en-US}}</ref> He climbed the route in memory of his friend Sébastien Gay, who died the year before in a skiing accident.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2008-03-10 |title=Mort du guide valaisan Sébastien Gay |url=https://www.rts.ch/info/suisse/1090913-mort-du-guide-valaisan-sebastien-gay.html |access-date=2024-07-10 |website=rts.ch |language=fr}}</ref> Troillet placed his friend's ashes at the summit.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Matterhorn North Face - new route or not? |url=https://www.thebmc.co.uk/matterhorn-north-face-new-route-or-not |access-date=2024-07-10 |website=www.thebmc.co.uk}}</ref>


== The 8000-metre peaks of Jean Troillet ==
== The 8000-metre peaks of Jean Troillet ==

*[[K2]], 8611 m
*[[K2]], 8611 m
*[[Dhaulagiri]], 8167 m
*[[Dhaulagiri]], 8167 m
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*[[Gasherbrum I]], 8068 m
*[[Gasherbrum I]], 8068 m
*[[Gasherbrum II]], 8035 m
*[[Gasherbrum II]], 8035 m

== Filmography ==

* ''30 Years between 20 Meters of Rope'', 2004<ref>{{Citation |last=Devrient |first=Sébastien |title=30 Years Between 20 Meters of Rope |date=2004-03-15 |type=Documentary, Short |url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10062186/?ref_=nm_flmg_t_10_slf |access-date=2024-07-10 |others=Sébastien Gay, Jean Troillet |publisher=Rolex}}</ref>
* ''Montagnes de rêve: la Haute Route'', 2005<ref>{{Citation |last=Devrient |first=Sébastien |title=Montagnes de rêve: la Haute Route |date=2005-03-15 |type=Documentary |url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10013238/?ref_=nm_flmg_t_9_slf |access-date=2024-07-10 |others=Carole Dechantre, Jean Troillet |publisher=Vertiges Prod}}</ref>
* ''South Face Annapurna: Living is Victory'', 2008<ref>{{Citation |last=Devrient |first=Sébastien |title=South Face Annapurna: Living Is Victory |date=2008-03-15 |type=Documentary, Short |url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10062280/?ref_=nm_knf_t_2 |access-date=2024-07-10 |others=Sébastien Devrient, Martial Dumas, Jean-Yves Fredriksen |publisher=Rolex}}</ref>
* ''La Voie Sébastien Gay'', 2009<ref>{{Citation |last=Devrient |first=Sébastien |title=La Voie Sébastien Gay |date=2009-08-15 |type=Documentary, Short |url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10054158/?ref_=nm_knf_c_4 |access-date=2024-07-10 |others=Martial Dumas, Jean-Yves Fredriksen, Sébastien Gay |publisher=Troillet Aventures, Vertiges Prod}}</ref>
* ''Un Violon au Shishapangma'', 2010<ref>{{Citation |last=Devrient |first=Sébastien |title=Un Violon au Shishapangma |date=2010-03-15 |type=Documentary, Short |url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10062578/?ref_=nm_flmg_t_6_slf |access-date=2024-07-10 |others=Jean-Yves Fredriksen, Jean Troillet |publisher=Troillet Aventures, Vertiges Prod}}</ref>
* ''Vertiges à l'Annapurna'', 2012<ref>{{Citation |last=Devrient |first=Sébastien |title=Vertiges à l'Annapurna |date=2012-03-15 |type=Documentary, Short |url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10054338/?ref_=nm_flmg_c_5_slf |access-date=2024-07-10 |others=Sébastien Devrient, Jean-Yves Fredriksen, Jean Troillet |publisher=Fondation Jean Troillet, Vertiges Prod}}</ref>
* ''Montagnes de rêve: le Grand Paradis'', 2013<ref>{{Citation |last=Devrient |first=Sébastien |title=Montagnes de rêve: le Grand Paradis |date=2013-03-15 |type=Documentary |url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10013916/?ref_=nm_flmg_t_4_slf |access-date=2024-07-10 |others=Carole Dechantre, Jean Troillet |publisher=Vertiges Prod}}</ref>
* ''Bylot Island'', 2013<ref>{{Citation |last=Devrient |first=Sébastien |title=Bylot Island |date=2013-03-15 |type=Documentary |url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10056226/?ref_=nm_flmg_t_3_slf |access-date=2024-07-10 |others=Sébastien Devrient, Jean-Yves Fredriksen, Jean Troillet |publisher=Fondation Jean Troillet}}</ref>
* ''Groenland pourquoi pas?'', 2016<ref>{{Citation |last=Devrient |first=Sébastien |title=Groenland pourquoi pas? |date=2016-03-15 |type=Documentary |url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10056264/?ref_=nm_flmg_t_2_slf |access-date=2024-07-10 |others=Sébastien Devrient, Jean-Yves Fredriksen, Jean Troillet |publisher=Fondation Jean Troillet, Vertiges Prod}}</ref>
* ''Jean Troillet, Toujours Aventurier'' - 2016<ref>{{Cite web |title=Jean Troillet, toujours aventurier |url=https://www.swissfilms.ch/en/movie/jean-troillet-toujours-aventurier/48C30CEA97E744A087B7261E669D1E26 |access-date=2024-07-10 |website=swissfilms |language=en}}</ref>

==See also==
*[[List of 20th-century summiters of Mount Everest]]


==References==
==References==
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==External links==
==External links==
*[http://www.troillet.ch/ Official web site]
*[http://www.troillet.ch/ Official web site]
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{{Use dmy dates|date=April 2011}}


{{Authority control}}
{{Persondata <!-- Metadata: see [[Wikipedia:Persondata]]. -->

⚫
| NAME = Troillet, Jean
| ALTERNATIVE NAMES =
| SHORT DESCRIPTION =
| DATE OF BIRTH = 10 March 1948
| PLACE OF BIRTH = [[Orsières]], [[Valais]] [[Switzerland]]
| DATE OF DEATH =
| PLACE OF DEATH =
}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Troillet, Jean}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Troillet, Jean}}
[[Category:1948 births]]
[[Category:1948 births]]
[[Category:Living people]]
[[Category:Living people]]
[[Category:Swiss mountain climbers]]
[[Category:Swiss mountain climbers]]
[[Category:Summiters of Mount Everest]]
[[Category:Swiss summiters of Mount Everest]]
[[Category:People from Entremont district]]

[[Category:Sportspeople from Valais]]
[[cs:Jean Troillet]]
[[Category:Summiters of K2]]
[[fr:Jean Troillet]]

Latest revision as of 18:30, 19 July 2024

Jean Troillet
Jean Troillet
Born (1948-03-10) 10 March 1948 (age 76)
Orsières, Valais, Switzerland
Known forFastest speed ascent of Mount Everest
SpouseMireille Troillet
Children1, Gustine
Websitehttp://www.troillet.ch/

Jean Troillet (born 10 March 1948) is a professional mountain climber.

Of Swiss and Canadian nationality, he obtained his mountain guide qualifications in 1969. That year, at the age of 21, he set a speed record for an ascent of the Matterhorn of four hours and ten minutes.[1] He has climbed 10 peaks of more than 8000 meters, all in alpine style and without oxygen.

Together with Erhard Loretan, Troillet climbed Everest in 1986. The pair holds the speed record for the ascent of Everest by the North Face, 43 hours to the summit and back.[2][3]

In 1997, he returned to Everest to make the first snowboard descent from the world's tallest mountain. After summitting without supplementary oxygen, he began his descent at 28,500 feet.[4] The ride set an unprecedented altitude record at the time, although was a bit more than 500 feet below the actual summit.[5]

In the 1990s, he began sailing.[5]

In 2001, Troillet, Mike Horn and Erhard Loretan attempted to cross Greenland on skis pulled by kites for a world record attempt. Poor winds prevented their attempt.[6]

In 2009, he completed a new route on the north face of the Matterhorn.[7] He climbed the route in memory of his friend Sébastien Gay, who died the year before in a skiing accident.[8] Troillet placed his friend's ashes at the summit.[9]

The 8000-metre peaks of Jean Troillet

[edit]

Filmography

[edit]
  • 30 Years between 20 Meters of Rope, 2004[10]
  • Montagnes de rêve: la Haute Route, 2005[11]
  • South Face Annapurna: Living is Victory, 2008[12]
  • La Voie Sébastien Gay, 2009[13]
  • Un Violon au Shishapangma, 2010[14]
  • Vertiges à l'Annapurna, 2012[15]
  • Montagnes de rêve: le Grand Paradis, 2013[16]
  • Bylot Island, 2013[17]
  • Groenland pourquoi pas?, 2016[18]
  • Jean Troillet, Toujours Aventurier - 2016[19]

See also

[edit]

References

[edit]
  1. ^ Sampiero, Josh. "Dani Arnold's speed ascent of the Matterhorn North Face beats Ueli Steck for a new world record". redbull.com. Retrieved 24 November 2015.
  2. ^ "The record-breaker of Himalaya – Lukarn". Retrieved 10 July 2024.
  3. ^ "AAC Publications - Asia, China, Everest, The Hornbein Couloir Direct from Tibet". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
  4. ^ Mt Everest, Tibet, Himalaya 8'848 m., face nord, altitude atteinte 8'400 m. puis descente en snowboard (première) [1] Archived 1 May 2011 at Wikiwix
  5. ^ a b ncs-import. "Swiss-Canadian not interested in matching record, has moved onto other things". www.recordcourier.com. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
  6. ^ swissinfo.ch, S. W. I. (18 May 2001). "Swiss adventurers abandon Greenland record attempt". SWI swissinfo.ch. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
  7. ^ "New Route on Matterhorn North Face". Climbing. 28 July 2009. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
  8. ^ "Mort du guide valaisan Sébastien Gay". rts.ch (in French). 10 March 2008. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
  9. ^ "Matterhorn North Face - new route or not?". www.thebmc.co.uk. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
  10. ^ Devrient, Sébastien (15 March 2004), 30 Years Between 20 Meters of Rope (Documentary, Short), Sébastien Gay, Jean Troillet, Rolex, retrieved 10 July 2024
  11. ^ Devrient, Sébastien (15 March 2005), Montagnes de rêve: la Haute Route (Documentary), Carole Dechantre, Jean Troillet, Vertiges Prod, retrieved 10 July 2024
  12. ^ Devrient, Sébastien (15 March 2008), South Face Annapurna: Living Is Victory (Documentary, Short), Sébastien Devrient, Martial Dumas, Jean-Yves Fredriksen, Rolex, retrieved 10 July 2024
  13. ^ Devrient, Sébastien (15 August 2009), La Voie Sébastien Gay (Documentary, Short), Martial Dumas, Jean-Yves Fredriksen, Sébastien Gay, Troillet Aventures, Vertiges Prod, retrieved 10 July 2024
  14. ^ Devrient, Sébastien (15 March 2010), Un Violon au Shishapangma (Documentary, Short), Jean-Yves Fredriksen, Jean Troillet, Troillet Aventures, Vertiges Prod, retrieved 10 July 2024
  15. ^ Devrient, Sébastien (15 March 2012), Vertiges à l'Annapurna (Documentary, Short), Sébastien Devrient, Jean-Yves Fredriksen, Jean Troillet, Fondation Jean Troillet, Vertiges Prod, retrieved 10 July 2024
  16. ^ Devrient, Sébastien (15 March 2013), Montagnes de rêve: le Grand Paradis (Documentary), Carole Dechantre, Jean Troillet, Vertiges Prod, retrieved 10 July 2024
  17. ^ Devrient, Sébastien (15 March 2013), Bylot Island (Documentary), Sébastien Devrient, Jean-Yves Fredriksen, Jean Troillet, Fondation Jean Troillet, retrieved 10 July 2024
  18. ^ Devrient, Sébastien (15 March 2016), Groenland pourquoi pas? (Documentary), Sébastien Devrient, Jean-Yves Fredriksen, Jean Troillet, Fondation Jean Troillet, Vertiges Prod, retrieved 10 July 2024
  19. ^ "Jean Troillet, toujours aventurier". swissfilms. Retrieved 10 July 2024.
[edit]
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