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{{Short description|A perfume manufacturer founded in Paris, France in 1775}}
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'''Houbigant Parfum''' ({{IPA-fr|ubiɡɑ̃|pron}}) is a [[perfume]] manufacturer founded in [[Paris]], [[France]] in 1775 by [[Jean-François Houbigant]] of [[Grasse]] (1752–1807). The brand originally sold gloves, perfumes, and bridal bouquets. The original shop, called "A la Corbeille de Fleurs", was in the [[rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré]]. Over the centuries, the House of Houbigant became perfumer to the royal courts of Europe including [[Napoleon]], [[Napoleon III]], [[Alexander III of Russia]], and [[Queen Victoria]].
{{advert|date=September 2018}}
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{{more citations needed|date=November 2014}}
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[[File:Portrait de JF Houbigant.png|thumb|Jean-François Houbigant, as portrayed in the company's 150th anniversary catalog]]
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'''Houbigant Parfum''' ({{IPA|fr|ubiɡɑ̃|pron}}) is a [[perfume]] manufacturer founded in [[Paris]], [[France]], in 1775<ref name="museum">{{cite news |last=Nicklin |first=Mary Winston |date=November 28, 2016 |title=Paris's New Perfume Museum Smells Amazing (Obviously) |url=https://www.cntraveler.com/story/a-sneak-peek-at-pariss-new-grand-musee-du-parfum |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171229011126/https://www.cntraveler.com/story/a-sneak-peek-at-pariss-new-grand-musee-du-parfum |archive-date=29 December 2017 |work=Condé Nast Traveler}}</ref> by [[Jean-François Houbigant]] of [[Grasse]] (1752–1807). The brand originally sold gloves, perfumes, and bridal bouquets. The original shop, À la Corbeille de Fleurs, operated at 19 [[rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré]].<ref name=museum/> Several European rulers including [[Napoleon]], [[Napoleon III]], [[Alexander III of Russia]], and [[Queen Victoria]] used Houbigant's perfume.


==History==
==History==
{{see|History of perfume}}
{{See also|History of perfume}}
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[[File:Robert Bienaimé - Portrait photograph.jpg|thumb|Robert Bienaimé, Houbigant perfumer from 1912 to 1935 and creator of ''Quelques Fleurs'']]
Besides being the perfumer of royalties, the House of Houbigant has been a precursor in the creation of fragrances. In 1882, the House launched [[Fougère Royale]], a fragrance that completely revolutionized the world of perfumes and established modern perfumery as it exists today.{{Citation needed|date=December 2011}} Fougère Royale was the first “fougère” (or fern-like) perfume ever created, establishing a completely new fragrance family which still remains today the most popular family in men’s fragrances.


During this period, Houbigant stretched out its commercial arms around the world. Under the direction of the Paris office, offices were established in the United States, England, Belgium, the Netherlands, Switzerland, Italy, Spain, Poland, Romania. Connections were made in Havana, Buenos Aires, Rio de Janeiro, Australia, Japan, and China.
In 1882, the House launched ''[[Fougère Royale]]'', the first ''fougère'' (or 'fern-like') perfume, and established a new fragrance family.{{citation needed|date=January 2019}} During this period, under the direction of the Paris office, offices were established in the United States, England, Belgium, the Netherlands, Switzerland, Italy, Spain, Poland, and Romania. The New York location included a manufacturing and distribution facility.
The New York office had its own manufacturing facility distribute Houbigant goods to "all parts of the country."
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[[File:Robert Bienaimé - Portrait photograph.jpg|thumb| Robert Bienaimé, Houbigant perfumer from 1912-1935 and creator of ''Quelques Fleurs'']]
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Houbigant was also the first perfume house to discover how to isolate particular molecules from natural raw materials and more specifically the [[coumarin]], which is isolated from [[tonka bean]]. In 1912, the House presented Quelques Fleurs, the first true multi-floral bouquet ever created. Up to that time, floral fragrances had been mostly single flowers or were blended with herbs and other essences. ''The Genealogy of Perfumes'' cites Quelques Fleurs as a landmark innovation that established a totally new fragrance classification and influenced other compositions for years afterwards including many of today’s important fragrances.{{Citation needed|date=December 2011}}


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Houbigant was the first perfume house to discover how to isolate particular molecules from natural raw materials—specifically [[coumarin]], which is isolated from the [[tonka bean]]. In 1912, they introduced ''Quelques Fleurs'', the first multi-floral bouquet. Up to that time, floral fragrances had been mostly single flowers or were blended with herbs and other essences. ''The Genealogy of Perfumes'' cites ''Quelques Fleurs'' as an innovation that established a new fragrance classification and influenced other compositions for years afterward, including many of today’s important fragrances.{{Citation needed paragraph|date=May 2024}}
==Royal supporters==
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[[File:Paul Parquet - Portrait photograph.jpg|thumb|Paul Parquet, creator of ''Fougère Royale'' which created the eponymous [[Fougère]] family of fragrances]]
Josephine, the future Empress of France, belonged to a group of stylish young men and women called “The Muscadins” because of their craze for musk which was Josephine’s favorite essence. Houbigant fragrances traveled in Napoleon’s campaign chest during the years when he was conquering Europe.{{Citation needed|date=December 2011}}. It was also the perfume of Oscar Wilde.


The Houbigant factory was bombed during the [[Second World War]]. The brand later produces some mildly successful fragrances, though later discontinued.<ref name="hummel">{{cite web |last=Hummel |first=Grace E. |date=c. 2015 |title=History |url=https://houbigantperfumes.blogspot.com/p/history.html |url-status=bot: unknown |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240118125735/https://houbigantperfumes.blogspot.com/p/history.html |archive-date=18 January 2024 |access-date=18 January 2024 |website=Houbigant Perfumes }}</ref>
An Houbigant legend, not verified, has it that when [[Marie Antoinette]] was fleeing to Varennes to escape the [[French revolution]] she was recognized as royalty because of her Houbigant perfume, which only royalty could afford.<ref>[http://www.perfumeprojects.com/museum/marketers/Houbigant.php]</ref>

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[[File:Paul Parquet - Portrait photograph.jpg|thumb|Paul Parquet, creator of the highly influential ''Fougère Royale'' that created the eponymous [[Fougère]] family of fragrances]]
In 1993, Houbigant filed for chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in New York, with liabilities of US$52.5 million and assets of US$23 million. In 1994, Houbigant licensed twelve Houbigant perfumes, with their formulas and the Houbigant name, to a start-up company, Renaissance Cosmetics, Inc., which stated that its intention was to market via drug store chains and discounters, rather than maintain Houbigant's market position.<ref name="history">{{cite web |last=Goutell |first=Philip |date=c. 2006 |title=The history of Houbigant perfumes |url=https://www.perfumeprojects.com/museum/marketers/Houbigant.shtml |url-status=bot: unknown |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240118122943/https://www.perfumeprojects.com/museum/marketers/Houbigant.shtml |archive-date=18 January 2024 |publisher=Perfume Projects |access-date=18 January 2024 }} Article has several comments by long-standing purchasers who found that later perfumes were not the same as they had been.</ref>

Renaissance filed for bankruptcy protection in 1999, preceded by much litigation between the companies, with Houbigant complaining that its perfumes were being "watered down", and its name used in ways not included in the licensing agreement. Houbigant later litigated with Renaissance's insurers over the claims.<ref name=history/> Renaissance ceased to exist, and perfumes far from their original formulations were legally sold under the Houbigant name. A company called "New Dana Perfumes", later "Dana Classic Fragrances", ended up with the legal right to use the "Houbigant" name for fragrances they manufactured themselves; Houbigant no longer tried to enforce compliance with the originals.<ref name="history" /> It was reported in 2017 that the Houbigant perfumes were being manufactured under the original specifications by LOFT Fashion and Beauty Diffusion of Monaco.<ref name="hummel" />


==Current status==
==Current status==
The Houbigant fragrances are now being manufactured under the original specifications by LOFT Fashion and Beauty Diffusion of Monaco and marketed in the United States by Exclusive Fragrances and Cosmetics.
The Houbigant fragrances are now manufactured under the original specifications by LOFT Fashion and Beauty Diffusion of Monaco and marketed in the United States by Exclusive Fragrances and Cosmetics.


== Timeline ==
== Timeline ==
*1775: Perfumer Jean-François Houbigant opens “A la Corbeille de Fleurs”, Rue Faubourg St Honoré
* 1775: Perfumer Jean-François Houbigant opens ''À la Corbeille de Fleurs'', Rue Faubourg St Honoré
*1807: Perfumer Armand-Gustave Houbigant, the son of Jean-François, joins the house
* 1807: Perfumer Armand-Gustave Houbigant, the son of Jean-François, joins the house
*1807: Houbigant was appointed personal perfumer to Napoleon and created a special perfume for Empress Josephine
* 1807: Houbigant was appointed personal perfumer to Napoleon and created a special perfume for Empress Josephine
*In the beginning of the nineteenth century, Houbigant was appointed perfumer to Her Royal Highness, the Princess Adelaide d’Orleans, mother of King Louis-Philippe.
* Early 19th century: Houbigant was appointed as perfumer to [[Louise Marie Adélaïde de Bourbon, Duchess of Orléans|Princess Adelaide d'Orléans]], mother of [[Louis Philippe I|King Louis-Philippe]].
*In 1838, the French house was awarded the license of “Perfumer to Her Majesty, [[Queen Victoria]] of England”.
* 1838: The French house was awarded the license of "Perfumer to Her Majesty, [[Queen Victoria]] of the United Kingdom".
*In 1880 perfumer [[Paul Parquet]] became joint owner.
* 1880: perfumer [[Paul Parquet]] became joint owner.
*In 1882, [[Paul Parquet]] creates Fougère Royale.
* 1882: [[Paul Parquet]] creates ''Fougère Royale''.
*In 1890 Tsar Alexander III named Houbigant perfumer to the Imperial Court of Russia
* 1890: Tsar Alexander III named Houbigant perfumer to the Imperial Court of Russia
*In 1912 Perfumer Bienaimé joined Houbigant and created fragrances for the house until he founded his own in 1935.
* 1912: Perfumer [[Robert Bienaimé]] joined Houbigant and created fragrances for the house until he founded his own in 1935.
*In 1912 perfumer Bienaimé introduced Quelques Fleurs.
* 1912: Robert Bienaimé introduced ''Quelques Fleurs''.
*pre-1950 perfumers Paul Schving and Marcel Billot created perfumes for Houbigant
*pre-1950: perfumers Paul Schving and Marcel Billot created perfumes for Houbigant.
*In 1990, Houbigant relaunched Lutece from prestige department store brand to domestic brand.
* 1990: Houbigant relaunched ''Lutece'' from prestige department store brand to domestic brand.
*In the 1980s Houbigant relaunched Quelques Fleurs.
* 1980s: Houbigant relaunched ''Quelques Fleurs''.
*In 1985 Houbigant launched Duc de Vervins.
* 1985: Houbigant launched ''Duc de Vervins''.
*In 1998 Houbigant launched Quelques Fleurs Royale.
* 1998: Houbigant launched ''Quelques Fleurs Royale''.
*In 2010 Houbigant relaunched Fougère Royale.
* 2010: Houbigant relaunched ''Fougère Royale''.
*In 2012 Houbigant launched Orangers en Fleurs.
* 2012: Houbigant launched ''Orangers en Fleurs''.


== References ==
== References ==
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== External links ==
== External links ==
* [http://www.houbigant-parfum.com Houbigant Official Website]
* [http://www.houbigant-parfum.com Houbigant official website]
* [http://www.houbigant.fr Houbigant Collection Website]
* [http://www.perfumeprojects.com/museum/marketers/Houbigant.php The history of Houbigant perfumes]


{{Perfume}}
{{Perfume}}
{{Authority control}}


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[[Category:British royal warrant holders]]
[[Category:Perfume houses]]
[[Category:Perfume houses]]
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[[Category:British Royal Warrant holders]]
[[Category:Purveyors to the Russian imperial family]]
[[Category:Purveyors to the Russian imperial family]]
[[Category:Companies based in Paris]]
[[Category:French brands]]

Latest revision as of 23:35, 22 August 2024

Jean-François Houbigant, as portrayed in the company's 150th anniversary catalog

Houbigant Parfum (pronounced [ubiɡɑ̃]) is a perfume manufacturer founded in Paris, France, in 1775[1] by Jean-François Houbigant of Grasse (1752–1807). The brand originally sold gloves, perfumes, and bridal bouquets. The original shop, À la Corbeille de Fleurs, operated at 19 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.[1] Several European rulers including Napoleon, Napoleon III, Alexander III of Russia, and Queen Victoria used Houbigant's perfume.

History

[edit]
See also: History of perfume
Robert Bienaimé, Houbigant perfumer from 1912 to 1935 and creator of Quelques Fleurs

In 1882, the House launched Fougère Royale, the first fougère (or 'fern-like') perfume, and established a new fragrance family.[citation needed] During this period, under the direction of the Paris office, offices were established in the United States, England, Belgium, the Netherlands, Switzerland, Italy, Spain, Poland, and Romania. The New York location included a manufacturing and distribution facility.

Houbigant was the first perfume house to discover how to isolate particular molecules from natural raw materials—specifically coumarin, which is isolated from the tonka bean. In 1912, they introduced Quelques Fleurs, the first multi-floral bouquet. Up to that time, floral fragrances had been mostly single flowers or were blended with herbs and other essences. The Genealogy of Perfumes cites Quelques Fleurs as an innovation that established a new fragrance classification and influenced other compositions for years afterward, including many of today’s important fragrances.[This paragraph needs citation(s)]

Paul Parquet, creator of Fougère Royale which created the eponymous Fougère family of fragrances

The Houbigant factory was bombed during the Second World War. The brand later produces some mildly successful fragrances, though later discontinued.[2]

In 1993, Houbigant filed for chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in New York, with liabilities of US$52.5 million and assets of US$23 million. In 1994, Houbigant licensed twelve Houbigant perfumes, with their formulas and the Houbigant name, to a start-up company, Renaissance Cosmetics, Inc., which stated that its intention was to market via drug store chains and discounters, rather than maintain Houbigant's market position.[3]

Renaissance filed for bankruptcy protection in 1999, preceded by much litigation between the companies, with Houbigant complaining that its perfumes were being "watered down", and its name used in ways not included in the licensing agreement. Houbigant later litigated with Renaissance's insurers over the claims.[3] Renaissance ceased to exist, and perfumes far from their original formulations were legally sold under the Houbigant name. A company called "New Dana Perfumes", later "Dana Classic Fragrances", ended up with the legal right to use the "Houbigant" name for fragrances they manufactured themselves; Houbigant no longer tried to enforce compliance with the originals.[3] It was reported in 2017 that the Houbigant perfumes were being manufactured under the original specifications by LOFT Fashion and Beauty Diffusion of Monaco.[2]

Current status

[edit]

The Houbigant fragrances are now manufactured under the original specifications by LOFT Fashion and Beauty Diffusion of Monaco and marketed in the United States by Exclusive Fragrances and Cosmetics.

Timeline

[edit]
  • 1775: Perfumer Jean-François Houbigant opens À la Corbeille de Fleurs, Rue Faubourg St Honoré
  • 1807: Perfumer Armand-Gustave Houbigant, the son of Jean-François, joins the house
  • 1807: Houbigant was appointed personal perfumer to Napoleon and created a special perfume for Empress Josephine
  • Early 19th century: Houbigant was appointed as perfumer to Princess Adelaide d'Orléans, mother of King Louis-Philippe.
  • 1838: The French house was awarded the license of "Perfumer to Her Majesty, Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom".
  • 1880: perfumer Paul Parquet became joint owner.
  • 1882: Paul Parquet creates Fougère Royale.
  • 1890: Tsar Alexander III named Houbigant perfumer to the Imperial Court of Russia
  • 1912: Perfumer Robert Bienaimé joined Houbigant and created fragrances for the house until he founded his own in 1935.
  • 1912: Robert Bienaimé introduced Quelques Fleurs.
  • pre-1950: perfumers Paul Schving and Marcel Billot created perfumes for Houbigant.
  • 1990: Houbigant relaunched Lutece from prestige department store brand to domestic brand.
  • 1980s: Houbigant relaunched Quelques Fleurs.
  • 1985: Houbigant launched Duc de Vervins.
  • 1998: Houbigant launched Quelques Fleurs Royale.
  • 2010: Houbigant relaunched Fougère Royale.
  • 2012: Houbigant launched Orangers en Fleurs.

References

[edit]
  1. ^ a b Nicklin, Mary Winston (November 28, 2016). "Paris's New Perfume Museum Smells Amazing (Obviously)". Condé Nast Traveler. Archived from the original on 29 December 2017.
  2. ^ a b Hummel, Grace E. (c. 2015). "History". Houbigant Perfumes. Archived from the original on 18 January 2024. Retrieved 18 January 2024.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: bot: original URL status unknown (link)
  3. ^ a b c Goutell, Philip (c. 2006). "The history of Houbigant perfumes". Perfume Projects. Archived from the original on 18 January 2024. Retrieved 18 January 2024.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: bot: original URL status unknown (link) Article has several comments by long-standing purchasers who found that later perfumes were not the same as they had been.
[edit]
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