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{{Infobox artist
{{Infobox artist
⚫
| name = 莫蘭詩 (Mo Lan Shi) Betty Charnuis Clemo
| bgcolour = magenta
⚫
| image =
⚫
| name = 莫蘭詩 (Mo Lan Shi) Betty Charnuis Clemo
| image =
| imagesize =
| imagesize =
| alt =
| alt =
| caption =
⚫
| birth_name = Elizabeth Charnuis Borjigin
⚫
| caption =
⚫
| birth_date = 1920
⚫
| birthname = Elizabeth Charnuis Borjin
| birth_place = [[Beijing]], China
⚫
| birthdate = 1920
| birthplace = [[Beijing]]
| death_date = 2005
| deathdate = 2005
| death_place =
| deathplace =
| nationality = British
| nationality = [[United Kingdom]]
| field = [[Art director]]/[[Costume designer]]
| training =
| field = [[Art Director]]/[[Costume designer]]
| training =
| movement =
| movement =
| works =
| works =
| patrons =
| patrons =
| influenced by =
| influenced by =
| influenced =
| influenced =
| awards = [[Asia Pacific Film Festival]]
| awards = [[Asia Pacific Film Festival]]
| website =
| website =
}}
}}


'''[[Betty Clemo]]''' ([[莫蘭詩]]1920-2005) was a Hong Kong-based fashion designer and costume designer active in the 1950s until the end of the 1990s.
'''Betty Clemo''' 莫蘭詩 (1920–2005) was a Hong Kong–based fashion and costume designer active in the 1950s until the end of the 1990s.


==Early life==
Elizabeth 'Betty' Borjin Charnuis Clemo Yen was born in Beijing. Her father is Chinese, belonging to the [[Mongolian]] [[Borjigit]] clan, while her mother is Russian. After her father's death, She moved to Shanghai where her mother operated a couture house. Betty's mother Yekaterina (Catherine) Charnuis, apprenticed for [[Jeanne Lanvin]] in Paris<ref>de Chiree, Sylvie, "Jeanne Lanvin" (1988). ISBN-10: 8821637565</ref> before joining her family in Shanghai to start her own business, Atelier Charnuis. She employed primarily Russian refugees and catered to the high society of Shanghai including the [[Soong sisters]]<ref>Princess Der Ling, "Song of Heaven" (1938). ASIN B000RAN1WM</ref>
Elizabeth 'Betty' Borjin Chernyshyova 'Charnuis' Clemo Yen was born in [[Beijing]] in 1920. Her father was Mongolian, belonging to the [[Mongolia]]n [[Borjigit]] clan. Her mother, Yekaterina (Catherine) Chernyshyova was Russian, and apprenticed for [[Jeanne Lanvin]] in Paris.<ref>de Chiree, Sylvie, "Jeanne Lanvin" (1988). {{ISBN|88-216-3756-5}}</ref> After her father's death, she moved to [[Shanghai]], where her mother operated a [[Haute couture|couture]] house called Atelier Chernyshyova, later renamed Atelier Charnuis ({{Lang-zh|c=夏如意}}). She employed primarily Russian refugees and catered to the high society of Shanghai, including the [[Soong sisters]].<ref>Princess Der Ling, "Song of Heaven" (1938). ASIN B000RAN1WM</ref>


==Career==
Betty married English diplomat William Clemo in the 1930's and moved to London at the outbreak of [[World War II]]. William later died during the war and Betty eventually moved to Los Angeles under the advice of [[Elinor Glyn]]<ref>Glyn, Elinor, "Romantic Advanture" (1936). ASIN: B00088ZKMW</ref>. With the help of [[Elsie de Wolfe]]<ref>de Wolfe, Elsie, "After All" (1938). ASIN B0006AMUSY</ref>, whose husband Sir Charles Mendl was a colleague of William Clemo, she was hired as a costume consultant for 20th Century Fox and worked extensively with [[Edith Head]], [[Irene Sharaff]] and [[Charles LeMaire]]<ref>"Hollywood and History" (1965), ASIN: B000RJ75OS</ref>. She later moved to New York and worked as the chief fashion designer for [[Hattie Carnegie]].
Clemo married English diplomat William Clemo in the 1930s and moved to London at the outbreak of [[World War II]]. William died during the war and Clemo eventually moved to Los Angeles under the advice of [[Elinor Glyn]].<ref>Glyn, Elinor, ''Romantic Adventure: Being the Autobiography of Elinor Glyn'' (1936). ASIN: B00088ZKMW</ref> With the help of [[Elsie de Wolfe]],<ref>de Wolfe, Elsie, ''After All'' (1938). ASIN B0006AMUSY</ref> whose husband, Sir Charles Mendl, was a colleague of William Clemo, she was hired as a costume consultant for [[20th Century Fox]] and worked extensively with [[Edith Head]], [[Irene Sharaff]], and [[Charles LeMaire]].<ref>''Hollywood and History'' (1965), ASIN: B000RJ75OS</ref> She later moved to New York and worked as the chief pattern maker for [[Valentina (fashion designer)|Valentina Schlee]].


Betty relocated to [[Hong Kong]] at the end of the 1950's to work as an art director and costume designer for Shaw's studio. Under the studio system, she worked at numerous projects and is best remembered for her collaboration with [[Lin Dai]], where she designed most of her costumes on and off stage. She was awarded Best Art Director at the [[Asia Pacific Film Festival]] in 1961 for the movie Les Belles.
Clemo relocated to [[Hong Kong]] at the end of the 1950s to work as an art director and costume designer for Shaw's studio. Under the studio system, she worked at numerous projects and is best remembered for her collaboration with [[Lin Dai]], where she designed most of her costumes on and off stage.


In 1962, at the height of her fame, she started her own fashion brand Betty Clemo, and set up a boutique Betty Clemo's Couture at the world famous Peninsula Hotel<ref>www.hongkongskyscrapers.com, "The peninsula"</ref>. Generally regarded one of the first fashion designer in Hong Kong<ref>Aimann Lau, 2008-03-08, "New Design Force". Modern Weekly International, p.18-19</ref>, she was also the first to introduce Paris Haute Couture to Asia, importing licensed line-to-line adaption of Paris [[Haute Couture]] to Hong Kong<ref>Aimann Lau, 2008-03-08, "New Design Force". Modern Weekly International, p.18-19</ref>. Labels she carried throughout the years included: [[Christian Dior]], [[Nina Ricci]], [[Maggy Rouff]], [[Norman Hartnell]] and [[Hanae Mori]]. Apart from local movie stars and socielites from Hong Kong, she also attracted a following of international celebrities such as Hollywood actresses: [[Greta Garbo]], [[Marlene Dietrich]], [[Joan Crawford]], [[Anna May Wong]], [[Ava Gardner]], [[Susan Hayward]], [[Merle Oberon]]<ref>N. Kwan, 1966, South China Morning Post, p.15</ref>, and royal figures such as the [[Duchess of Windsor]] and [[Princess Margaret]]<ref>Anita Moorjani, 1964, Hong Kong Tiger standard, p.8</ref>.
Generally regarded one of the first fashion designers in Hong Kong,<ref>Aimann Lau, 2008-03-08, "New Design Force". ''Modern Weekly International'', pp. 18-19</ref> she was the first to introduce Paris haute couture to Asia by importing licensed line-to-line adaptations of Paris haute couture fashions to Hong Kong.<ref>Aimann Lau, 2008-03-08, "New Design Force". Modern Weekly International, p.18-19</ref> She created her eponymous boutique Betty Clemo's Couture in [[The Peninsula Hong Kong|The Peninsula]] in 1962.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2018 |title=Pioneering PEN |url=https://issuu.com/theantithesis/docs/pen-2018dec_lofinalsingle |access-date=2 May 2024 |publisher=The Peninsula}}</ref> Labels she carried throughout the years included [[Christian Dior]], [[Nina Ricci (brand)|Nina Ricci]], [[Maggy Rouff]], [[Norman Hartnell]], and [[Hanae Mori]]. Apart from local movie stars and socialites from Hong Kong, she also attracted a following of international celebrities such as Hollywood actresses [[Greta Garbo]], [[Marlene Dietrich]], [[Joan Crawford]], [[Anna May Wong]], [[Ava Gardner]], [[Rita Hayworth]], [[Merle Oberon]], [[Jennifer Jones]] and [[Sophia Loren]]<ref>N. Kwan, 1966, ''South China Morning Post'', p. 15</ref> and royal figures such as the [[Duchess of Windsor]] and [[Princess Margaret]].<ref>Anita Moorjani, 1964, ''Hong Kong Tiger Standard'', p. 8</ref>


She retired in the mid 1990s and moved to London with her grandchildren. She passed away in her sleep in 2005. Her fashion company is currently operated by her family in London, with boutiques in London, New York, Hong Kong, Macau and numerous duty free shops throughout China.
She retired in the mid-1990s and moved to London with her grandchildren. She died in her sleep in 2005.

She is the grandmother of the New York fashion designer Chocheng.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2017-02-16 |title=5 Things to Know about Emerging Designer Chocheng |url=https://observer.com/2017/02/5-things-to-know-about-emerging-designer-chocheng/ |access-date=2024-05-02 |website=Observer |language=en-US}}</ref>

== Awards ==

* 1961: Best Art Director at the [[Asia Pacific Film Festival]] for the movie ''Les Belles''{{Citation needed|date=March 2011}}


== Filmography ==
== Filmography ==
⚫
* ''[[Stage Fright]]'' (1946){{ref|1|1}}
⚫
* ''[[Sudden Fear]]'' (1952){{ref|1|1}}
⚫
* ''[[Affair in Trinindad]]'' (1952){{ref|1|1}}
⚫
* ''[[Call Me Madam]]'' (1953){{ref|1|1}}
⚫
* ''[[Love is a Many Splendored Thing]]'' (1955){{ref|2|2}}
⚫
* ''[[The King and I]]'' (1956){{ref|2|2}}
⚫
* ''[[The World of Suzie Wong]]'' (1960){{ref|2|2}}
⚫
* ''[[Flower Drum Song]]'' (1962){{ref|2|2}}
⚫
* ''[[Les Belle|千嬌百媚]]'' (1961){{ref|3|3}}
⚫
* ''[[Love Parade|花團錦簇]]'' (1962){{ref|3|3}}


{{note|1|1}} Assistant Costume Designer
=== Assistant costume designer ===
⚫
* ''Stage Fright'' (1946)
{{note|2|2}} Costume Consultant
⚫
* ''[[Sudden Fear]]'' (1952)
{{note|3|3}} Art Director
⚫
* ''[[Affair in Trinidad]]'' (1952)
⚫
==References==
⚫
* ''[[Call Me Madam (film)|Call Me Madam]]'' (1953)
<references />
==External links==
*[http://hkmdb.com/db/people/view.mhtml?id=27639&display_set=big5/ HKmdb]
*[http://people.mtime.com/1454452/filmographies/ Mtime]
*[http://www.europetrade.blogspot.com/ Europetrade]
*[http://www.hongkongskyscrapers.com/the-peninsula/ The Peninsula]
*[http://www.shenzhenluxury.com/Html/List_Show_11183.Html/ ShenZhen Luxury]


=== Costume consultant ===
⚫
{{DEFAULTSORT:Clemo, Betty}}
⚫
* ''[[Love Is a Many-Splendored Thing (film)|Love is a Many Splendored Thing]]'' (1955)
⚫
[[Category:Hong Kong fashion designers]]
⚫
* ''[[The King and I (1956 film)|The King and I]]'' (1956)
⚫
[[Category:2005 deaths]]
⚫
* ''[[The World of Suzie Wong (film)|The World of Suzie Wong]]'' (1960)
⚫
* ''[[Flower Drum Song (film)|Flower Drum Song]]'' (1962)


=== Art director ===
⚫
* ''[[Les Belle|千嬌百媚]]'' (1961)
⚫
* ''[[Love Parade|花團錦簇]]'' (1962)


⚫
==References==
{{fashion-bio-stub}}
<references />{{authority control}}


⚫
{{DEFAULTSORT:Clemo, Betty}}
[[zh:莫蘭詩]]
⚫
[[Category:2005 deaths]]
[[Category:1920 births]]
[[Category:Artists from Beijing]]
⚫
[[Category:Hong Kong women fashion designers]]
[[Category:Chinese emigrants to the United Kingdom]]
[[Category:British expatriates in the United States]]
[[Category:British emigrants to Hong Kong]]

Latest revision as of 12:59, 18 September 2024

莫蘭詩 (Mo Lan Shi) Betty Charnuis Clemo
Born
Elizabeth Charnuis Borjigin

1920
Beijing, China
Died2005
NationalityBritish
Known forArt director/Costume designer
AwardsAsia Pacific Film Festival

Betty Clemo 莫蘭詩 (1920–2005) was a Hong Kong–based fashion and costume designer active in the 1950s until the end of the 1990s.

Early life

[edit]

Elizabeth 'Betty' Borjin Chernyshyova 'Charnuis' Clemo Yen was born in Beijing in 1920. Her father was Mongolian, belonging to the Mongolian Borjigit clan. Her mother, Yekaterina (Catherine) Chernyshyova was Russian, and apprenticed for Jeanne Lanvin in Paris.[1] After her father's death, she moved to Shanghai, where her mother operated a couture house called Atelier Chernyshyova, later renamed Atelier Charnuis (Chinese: 夏如意). She employed primarily Russian refugees and catered to the high society of Shanghai, including the Soong sisters.[2]

Career

[edit]

Clemo married English diplomat William Clemo in the 1930s and moved to London at the outbreak of World War II. William died during the war and Clemo eventually moved to Los Angeles under the advice of Elinor Glyn.[3] With the help of Elsie de Wolfe,[4] whose husband, Sir Charles Mendl, was a colleague of William Clemo, she was hired as a costume consultant for 20th Century Fox and worked extensively with Edith Head, Irene Sharaff, and Charles LeMaire.[5] She later moved to New York and worked as the chief pattern maker for Valentina Schlee.

Clemo relocated to Hong Kong at the end of the 1950s to work as an art director and costume designer for Shaw's studio. Under the studio system, she worked at numerous projects and is best remembered for her collaboration with Lin Dai, where she designed most of her costumes on and off stage.

Generally regarded one of the first fashion designers in Hong Kong,[6] she was the first to introduce Paris haute couture to Asia by importing licensed line-to-line adaptations of Paris haute couture fashions to Hong Kong.[7] She created her eponymous boutique Betty Clemo's Couture in The Peninsula in 1962.[8] Labels she carried throughout the years included Christian Dior, Nina Ricci, Maggy Rouff, Norman Hartnell, and Hanae Mori. Apart from local movie stars and socialites from Hong Kong, she also attracted a following of international celebrities such as Hollywood actresses Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich, Joan Crawford, Anna May Wong, Ava Gardner, Rita Hayworth, Merle Oberon, Jennifer Jones and Sophia Loren[9] and royal figures such as the Duchess of Windsor and Princess Margaret.[10]

She retired in the mid-1990s and moved to London with her grandchildren. She died in her sleep in 2005.

She is the grandmother of the New York fashion designer Chocheng.[11]

Awards

[edit]

Filmography

[edit]

Assistant costume designer

[edit]

Costume consultant

[edit]

Art director

[edit]

References

[edit]
  1. ^ de Chiree, Sylvie, "Jeanne Lanvin" (1988). ISBN 88-216-3756-5
  2. ^ Princess Der Ling, "Song of Heaven" (1938). ASIN B000RAN1WM
  3. ^ Glyn, Elinor, Romantic Adventure: Being the Autobiography of Elinor Glyn (1936). ASIN: B00088ZKMW
  4. ^ de Wolfe, Elsie, After All (1938). ASIN B0006AMUSY
  5. ^ Hollywood and History (1965), ASIN: B000RJ75OS
  6. ^ Aimann Lau, 2008-03-08, "New Design Force". Modern Weekly International, pp. 18-19
  7. ^ Aimann Lau, 2008-03-08, "New Design Force". Modern Weekly International, p.18-19
  8. ^ "Pioneering PEN". The Peninsula. 2018. Retrieved 2 May 2024.
  9. ^ N. Kwan, 1966, South China Morning Post, p. 15
  10. ^ Anita Moorjani, 1964, Hong Kong Tiger Standard, p. 8
  11. ^ "5 Things to Know about Emerging Designer Chocheng". Observer. 2017-02-16. Retrieved 2024-05-02.
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