Robe of honour: Difference between revisions
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{{Short description|Garments historically given by Islamic rulers}} |
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[[File:Mahmud in robe from the caliph.jpg|thumb|250px|[[Mahmud of Ghazni]] dons a robe of honour sent by the [[Abbasid caliph]] [[al-Qadir]]]] |
[[File:Mahmud in robe from the caliph.jpg|thumb|250px|[[Mahmud of Ghazni]] dons a robe of honour sent by the [[Abbasid caliph]] [[al-Qadir]]]] |
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A '''robe of honour''' ({{ |
A '''robe of honour''' ({{langx|ar|خلعة|khilʿa}}, plural {{transl|ar|khilaʿ}}, or {{lang|ar| تشريف|tashrīf}}, pl. {{transl|ar|tashārif}} or {{transl|ar|tashrīfāt}}{{sfn|Stillmann|1986|p=6}}) were rich garments given by medieval and early modern Islamic rulers to subjects as tokens of honour, often as part of a ceremony of appointment to a public post, or as a token of confirmation or acceptance of vassalage of a subordinate ruler. They were usually produced in government factories and decorated with the inscribed bands known as ''[[tiraz|ṭirāz]]''. |
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==History == |
==History == |
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In the Islamic world, [[Muhammad]] himself set a precedent when he removed his cloak ({{transl|ar|burda}}) and gave it to [[Ka'b ibn Zuhayr]] in recognition of a poem praising him. Indeed, the term {{transl|ar|khilʿa}} "denotes the action of removing one's garment in order to give it to someone".{{sfn|Stillmann|1986|p=6}} |
In the Islamic world, [[Muhammad]] himself set a precedent when he removed his cloak ({{transl|ar|burda}}) and gave it to [[Ka'b ibn Zuhayr]] in recognition of a poem praising him. Indeed, the term {{transl|ar|khilʿa}} "denotes the action of removing one's garment in order to give it to someone".{{sfn|Stillmann|1986|p=6}} |
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The practice of awarding robes of honour appears in the [[Abbasid Caliphate]], where it became such a regular feature of government that ceremonies of bestowal occurred almost every day, and the members of the caliph's court became known as 'those who wear the {{transl|ar|khilʿa}}' ({{transl|ar|aṣḥāb al-khilʿa}}).{{sfn|Stillmann|1986|p=6}} The bestowal of garments became a fixed part of any investment into office, from that of a governor to the heir-apparent to the throne. As important court occasions, these events were often commemorated by poets and recorded by historians.{{sfn|Stillmann|1986|p=6}} |
The practice of awarding robes of honour appears in the [[Abbasid Caliphate]], where it became such a regular feature of government that ceremonies of bestowal occurred almost every day, and the members of the caliph's court became known as 'those who wear the {{transl|ar|khilʿa}}' ({{transl|ar|aṣḥāb al-khilʿa}}).{{sfn|Stillmann|1986|p=6}} The bestowal of garments became a fixed part of any investment into office, from that of a governor to the heir-apparent to the throne. As important court occasions, these events were often commemorated by poets and recorded by historians.{{sfn|Stillmann|1986|p=6}} |
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In Egypt in the [[Fatimid Caliphate]], the practice spread to the wealthy upper middle classes, who began conferring robes of honor on friends and relatives, in emulation of the aristocracy.{{sfn|Stillmann|1986|p=6}} Later, under the [[Mamluk Sultanate]], the system was standardized into a system of classes reflecting the divisions of Mameluke society, each with its own ranks: the military ({{transl|ar|arbāb al-suyūf}}), the civilian bureaucracy ({{transl|ar|arbāb al-aqlām}}), and the religious scholars ({{transl|ar|[[ulama|al-ʿulamāʾ]]}}).{{sfn|Stillmann|1986|p=6}} |
In Egypt in the [[Fatimid Caliphate]], the practice spread to the wealthy upper middle classes, who began conferring robes of honor on friends and relatives, in emulation of the aristocracy.{{sfn|Stillmann|1986|p=6}} Later, under the [[Mamluk Sultanate]], the system was standardized into a system of classes reflecting the divisions of Mameluke society, each with its own ranks: the military ({{transl|ar|arbāb al-suyūf}}), the civilian bureaucracy ({{transl|ar|arbāb al-aqlām}}), and the religious scholars ({{transl|ar|[[ulama|al-ʿulamāʾ]]}}).{{sfn|Stillmann|1986|p=6}} |
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The distribution of the robes of honour was the responsibility of the Keeper of the Privy Purse ({{transl|ar|nāẓir al-khāṣṣ}}), who supervised the Great Treasury ({{transl|ar|al-khizāna al-kubra}}), where the garments were stored.{{sfn|Stillmann|1986|p=6}} [[Al-Maqrizi]] provides a detailed description of the garments worn by the various classes and ranks; in addition, Mamluk practice included the bestowal of arms or even a fully outfitted horse from the Sultan's own stables as a {{transl|ar|tashrīf}}.{{sfn|Stillmann|1986|p=6}} The practice remained very common until the early 20th century; in 19th-century India, the bestowal gift or {{transl|ar|khillaut}} ({{transl|ar|khelat}}, {{transl|ar|khilut}}, or {{transl|ar|killut}}) might comprise from five up to 101 articles of clothing.{{sfn|Stillmann|1986|p=7}} |
The distribution of the robes of honour was the responsibility of the Keeper of the Privy Purse ({{transl|ar|nāẓir al-khāṣṣ}}), who supervised the Great Treasury ({{transl|ar|al-khizāna al-kubra}}), where the garments were stored.{{sfn|Stillmann|1986|p=6}} [[Al-Maqrizi]] provides a detailed description of the garments worn by the various classes and ranks; in addition, Mamluk practice included the bestowal of arms or even a fully outfitted horse from the Sultan's own stables as a {{transl|ar|tashrīf}}.{{sfn|Stillmann|1986|p=6}} The practice remained very common until the early 20th century; in 19th-century India, the bestowal gift or {{transl|ar|khillaut}} ({{transl|ar|khelat}}, {{transl|ar|khilut}}, or {{transl|ar|killut}}) might comprise from five up to 101 articles of clothing.{{sfn|Stillmann|1986|p=7}} |
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As the practice spread in the [[Muslim world]], and robes began to be given for every conceivable occasion, they also acquired distinct names. Thus for example the {{transl|ar|khilaʿ al-wizāra}} ('robe of the [[vizier]]ate') would be given on the appointment to the vizierate, while the {{transl|ar|khilaʿ al-ʿazl}} ('robe of dismissal') upon an—honourable—dismissal, the {{transl|ar|khilaʿ al-kudūm}} might be given to an arriving guest, while the {{transl|ar|khilaʿ al-safar}} would to a departing guest, etc.{{sfn|Stillmann|1986|p=7}} |
As the practice spread in the [[Muslim world]], and robes began to be given for every conceivable occasion, they also acquired distinct names. Thus for example the {{transl|ar|khilaʿ al-wizāra}} ('robe of the [[vizier]]ate') would be given on the appointment to the vizierate, while the {{transl|ar|khilaʿ al-ʿazl}} ('robe of dismissal') upon an—honourable—dismissal, the {{transl|ar|khilaʿ al-kudūm}} might be given to an arriving guest, while the {{transl|ar|khilaʿ al-safar}} would to a departing guest, etc.{{sfn|Stillmann|1986|p=7}} |
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Sums of money or other valuables were also given as part of the bestowal ceremony, or, in some cases, in lieu of the robe. In the [[Ottoman Empire]], such a sum was known as {{transl|ar|khilʿet behā}} ('price of {{transl|ar|khilʿa}}'); most commonly this referred to the [[donativum]] received by the [[Janissaries]] on the accession of a new [[Sultans of the Ottoman Empire|sultan]].{{sfn|Stillmann|1986|pp=6–7}} |
Sums of money or other valuables were also given as part of the bestowal ceremony, or, in some cases, in lieu of the robe. In the [[Ottoman Empire]], such a sum was known as {{transl|ar|khilʿet behā}} ('price of {{transl|ar|khilʿa}}'); most commonly this referred to the [[donativum]] received by the [[Janissaries]] on the accession of a new [[Sultans of the Ottoman Empire|sultan]].{{sfn|Stillmann|1986|pp=6–7}} |
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==Sources== |
==Sources== |
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* {{cite book | last = Mayer | first = Leo Ary | authorlink = Leo Aryeh Mayer | title = Mamluk Costume: A Survey | publisher = A. Kundig | year = 1952 | url = {{Google Books|OrffAAAAMAAJ|plainurl=y}} }} |
* {{cite book | last = Mayer | first = Leo Ary | authorlink = Leo Aryeh Mayer | title = Mamluk Costume: A Survey | publisher = A. Kundig | year = 1952 | url = {{Google Books|OrffAAAAMAAJ|plainurl=y}} }} |
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* {{EI2 | last = Stillmann | first = N. A.|date=1986 | title =K̲h̲ilʿa | volume = 5 | pages = 6–7 | |
* {{EI2 | last = Stillmann | first = N. A.|date=1986 | title =K̲h̲ilʿa | volume = 5 | pages = 6–7 | doi =10.1163/1573-3912_islam_COM_0507}} |
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* {{cite book |last1=Stillman |first1=Yedida Kalfon | editor = Norman A. Stillman |title=Arab Dress, A Short History: From the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times |date=2003 |publisher=Brill | location = Leiden and Boston |edition=Revised Second |isbn=978-90-04-11373-2 }} |
* {{cite book |last1=Stillman |first1=Yedida Kalfon | editor = Norman A. Stillman |title=Arab Dress, A Short History: From the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times |date=2003 |publisher=Brill | location = Leiden and Boston |edition=Revised Second |isbn=978-90-04-11373-2 }} |
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{{Abbasid Caliphate topics}} |
{{Abbasid Caliphate topics}} |
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[[Category:Islamic art]] |
[[Category:Islamic art]] |
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[[Category:Robes and cloaks]] |
[[Category:Robes and cloaks]] |
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[[Category:Award items]] |
[[Category:Award items]] |
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[[Category:Government of the Abbasid Caliphate]] |
[[Category:Government of the Abbasid Caliphate]] |
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[[Category:Ottoman |
[[Category:Clothing of the Ottoman Empire]] |
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[[Category:Government of the Mamluk Sultanate]] |
[[Category:Government of the Mamluk Sultanate]] |
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Latest revision as of 08:50, 21 October 2024
A robe of honour (Arabic: خلعة, romanized: khilʿa, plural khilaʿ, or [ تشريف] Error: {{Lang}}: invalid parameter: |3= (help), pl. tashārif or tashrīfāt[1]) were rich garments given by medieval and early modern Islamic rulers to subjects as tokens of honour, often as part of a ceremony of appointment to a public post, or as a token of confirmation or acceptance of vassalage of a subordinate ruler. They were usually produced in government factories and decorated with the inscribed bands known as ṭirāz.
History
[edit]The endowment of garments as a mark of favor is an ancient Middle Eastern tradition, recorded in sources such as the Hebrew Bible and Herodotus.[1]
In the Islamic world, Muhammad himself set a precedent when he removed his cloak (burda) and gave it to Ka'b ibn Zuhayr in recognition of a poem praising him. Indeed, the term khilʿa "denotes the action of removing one's garment in order to give it to someone".[1]
The practice of awarding robes of honour appears in the Abbasid Caliphate, where it became such a regular feature of government that ceremonies of bestowal occurred almost every day, and the members of the caliph's court became known as 'those who wear the khilʿa' (aṣḥāb al-khilʿa).[1] The bestowal of garments became a fixed part of any investment into office, from that of a governor to the heir-apparent to the throne. As important court occasions, these events were often commemorated by poets and recorded by historians.[1]
In Egypt in the Fatimid Caliphate, the practice spread to the wealthy upper middle classes, who began conferring robes of honor on friends and relatives, in emulation of the aristocracy.[1] Later, under the Mamluk Sultanate, the system was standardized into a system of classes reflecting the divisions of Mameluke society, each with its own ranks: the military (arbāb al-suyūf), the civilian bureaucracy (arbāb al-aqlām), and the religious scholars (al-ʿulamāʾ).[1]
The distribution of the robes of honour was the responsibility of the Keeper of the Privy Purse (nāẓir al-khāṣṣ), who supervised the Great Treasury (al-khizāna al-kubra), where the garments were stored.[1] Al-Maqrizi provides a detailed description of the garments worn by the various classes and ranks; in addition, Mamluk practice included the bestowal of arms or even a fully outfitted horse from the Sultan's own stables as a tashrīf.[1] The practice remained very common until the early 20th century; in 19th-century India, the bestowal gift or khillaut (khelat, khilut, or killut) might comprise from five up to 101 articles of clothing.[2]
As the practice spread in the Muslim world, and robes began to be given for every conceivable occasion, they also acquired distinct names. Thus for example the khilaʿ al-wizāra ('robe of the vizierate') would be given on the appointment to the vizierate, while the khilaʿ al-ʿazl ('robe of dismissal') upon an—honourable—dismissal, the khilaʿ al-kudūm might be given to an arriving guest, while the khilaʿ al-safar would to a departing guest, etc.[2]
Sums of money or other valuables were also given as part of the bestowal ceremony, or, in some cases, in lieu of the robe. In the Ottoman Empire, such a sum was known as khilʿet behā ('price of khilʿa'); most commonly this referred to the donativum received by the Janissaries on the accession of a new sultan.[3]
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ a b c d e f g h i Stillmann 1986, p. 6.
- ^ a b Stillmann 1986, p. 7.
- ^ Stillmann 1986, pp. 6–7.
Sources
[edit]- Mayer, Leo Ary (1952). Mamluk Costume: A Survey. A. Kundig.
- Stillmann, N. A. (1986). "K̲h̲ilʿa". In Bosworth, C. E.; van Donzel, E.; Lewis, B. & Pellat, Ch. (eds.). The Encyclopaedia of Islam, Second Edition. Volume V: Khe–Mahi. Leiden: E. J. Brill. pp. 6–7. doi:10.1163/1573-3912_islam_COM_0507. ISBN 978-90-04-07819-2.
- Stillman, Yedida Kalfon (2003). Norman A. Stillman (ed.). Arab Dress, A Short History: From the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times (Revised Second ed.). Leiden and Boston: Brill. ISBN 978-90-04-11373-2.