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[[Image:US Navy p coat wiki.jpg|thumb|upright|Military surplus coat, produced for the [[US Navy]]]]
[[Image:US Navy p coat wiki.jpg|thumb|upright|Military surplus coat, produced for the [[US Navy]]]]


A '''pea coat''' (or '''peacoat''', '''pea jacket''', '''pilot jacket''', '''reefer jacket''') is an outer [[coat]], generally of a [[Navy blue|navy-coloured]] heavy [[wool]],<ref name="USN">{{cite web |url=http://www.uswings.com/peacoat.asp |title=US Navy-style Pea ("P") Coat |access-date=2007-12-31 |year=2008 |work=US Wings Inc. |archive-date=2007-10-17 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071017031054/http://www.uswings.com/peacoat.asp |url-status=dead }}</ref> originally worn by [[sailor]]s of European and later American [[navy|navies]].<ref name="history">{{cite web |url=http://www.tailsclothing.com/clothing/coats/pavois-peacoat.html |title=The History of the Pea Coat |access-date=2014-01-07 |author=Josh Williams |year=2013 |work=Tails }}</ref> Pea coats are characterized by short length, broad [[Jacket lapel|lapels]], [[double-breasted]] fronts, often large wooden, metal or plastic buttons, three or four in two rows, and vertical or slash pockets.<ref name="soko">{{cite web |url=http://thesoko.com/thesoko/article1262.html |title=The Perfection Of The Pea Coat |access-date=2007-12-31 |author=Stilson, Sam |year=2007 |work=The Soko }}</ref> References to the pea jacket appear in American newspapers at least as early as the 1720s,<ref>Boston Gazette, Iss. 22, May 9–16, 1720, p.3</ref> and modern renditions still maintain the original design and composition.<ref name="USN" />
A '''pea coat''' (or '''peacoat''', '''pea jacket''', '''pilot jacket''') is an outer [[coat]], generally of a [[Navy blue|navy-coloured]] heavy [[wool]],<ref name="USN">{{cite web |url=http://www.uswings.com/peacoat.asp |title=US Navy-style Pea ("P") Coat |access-date=2007-12-31 |year=2008 |work=US Wings Inc. |archive-date=2007-10-17 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071017031054/http://www.uswings.com/peacoat.asp |url-status=dead }}</ref> originally worn by [[sailor]]s of European and later American [[navy|navies]].<ref name="history">{{cite web
|url=http://www.tailsclothing.com/clothing/coats/pavois-peacoat.html
|title=The History of the Pea Coat
|access-date=2014-01-07
|author=Josh Williams
|year=2013 |work=Tails
|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140107155927/http://www.tailsclothing.com/clothing/coats/pavois-peacoat.html
|archive-date=2014-01-07
|url-status=dead}}</ref> Pea coats are characterized by short length, broad [[Jacket lapel|lapels]], [[double-breasted]] fronts, often large wooden, metal or plastic buttons, three or four in two rows, and vertical or slash pockets.<ref name="soko">{{cite web |url=http://thesoko.com/thesoko/article1262.html |title=The Perfection Of The Pea Coat |access-date=2007-12-31 |author=Stilson, Sam |year=2007 |work=The Soko }}</ref> References to the pea jacket appear in American newspapers at least as early as the 1720s,<ref>{{cite news |journal=Boston Gazette |issue=22 |date=May 9–16, 1720 |title=untitled|page=3}}</ref> and modern renditions still maintain the original design and composition.<ref name="USN" />


A "bridge coat" is a pea coat that extends to the [[thighs]], and is a uniform exclusively for [[Officer (armed forces)|officer]]s and [[chief petty officer]]s. The reefer jacket is for officers<ref>{{cite web| url=https://www.dufflecoatsuk.co.uk/blogs/news/what-is-a-reefer-jacket| title=What is a Reefer Jacket?| date=2015-04-22| access-date=2019-11-11}}</ref>{{Failed verification|date=February 2021}}<!-- Not in reference --> and chief petty officers only, and is identical to the basic design, but usually has gold buttons and [[epaulettes]]. Only officers wear the epaulettes.<ref name="history" />
A '''reefer jacket''' is an [[Officer (armed forces)|officer]]'s or [[chief petty officer]]'s pea coat, with the same design but bearing gold buttons and [[epaulettes]].<ref name="history" /> A '''bridge coat''' is a reefer jacket which extends to the [[thighs]], giving greater protection to an officer who does not need agility to climb the rigging.<ref>{{cite web| url=https://www.dufflecoatsuk.co.uk/blogs/news/what-is-a-reefer-jacket| title=What is a Reefer Jacket?| date=2015-04-22| access-date=2019-11-11}}</ref>


==Etymology==
==Etymology==
According to a 1975 edition of ''[[The Mariner's Mirror]]'', the term "pea coat" originated from the [[Dutch language|Dutch]] or [[West Frisian language|West Frisian]] word ''pijjekker'' or ''pijjakker'', in which ''[[wikt:pij|pij]]'' referred to the type of cloth used, a coarse kind of [[twill]]ed blue cloth with a [[Nap (textile)|nap]] on one side. ''Jakker'' designates a man’s short, heavy coat.<ref>{{cite journal | title=The Mariner's Mirror |author1=Leonard George Carr Laughton |author2=Roger Charles Anderson |author3=William Gordon Perrin | journal=The Mariner's Mirror | year=1975 | volume=61 | pages=26}}</ref>
According to a 1975 edition of ''[[The Mariner's Mirror]]'', the term "pea coat" originated from the [[Dutch language|Dutch]] or [[West Frisian language|West Frisian]] word {{lang|nl|pijjekker}} or {{lang|nl|pijjakker}}, in which {{lang|nl|[[wikt:pij|pij]]}} referred to the type of cloth used, a coarse kind of [[twill]]ed blue cloth with a [[Nap (textile)|nap]] on one side. {{lang|nl|Jakker}} designates a man’s short, heavy coat.<ref>{{cite journal | title=The Mariner's Mirror |author1=Leonard George Carr Laughton |author2=Roger Charles Anderson |author3=William Gordon Perrin | journal=The Mariner's Mirror | year=1975 | volume=61 | pages=26}}</ref>


Another theory, favoured by the US Navy, is that the heavy [[Overcoat|topcoat]] worn in cold, miserable weather by seafaring men was once tailored from "pilot cloth" {{em dash}} a heavy, coarse, stout kind of twilled blue cloth with the nap on one side. This was sometimes called P-cloth from the initial letter of [[Maritime pilot|pilot]], and the garment made from it was called a P-jacket {{em dash}} later a pea coat. The term has been used since 1723 to denote coats made from that cloth.<ref>{{citation |title=Origin of Navy Terminology |url=http://www.history.navy.mil/library/online/origin.htm#pea |publisher=Navy Internal Relations Activity, Office of the Chief of Information |others=LT John W. Alexander, Director}}</ref>
Another theory, favoured by the US Navy, is that the heavy [[Overcoat|topcoat]] worn in cold, miserable weather by seafaring men was once tailored from "pilot cloth" {{em dash}} a heavy, coarse, stout kind of twilled blue cloth with the nap on one side. This was sometimes called P-cloth from the initial letter of [[Maritime pilot|pilot]], and the garment made from it was called a P-jacket {{em dash}} later a pea coat. The term has been used since 1723 to denote coats made from that cloth.<ref>{{citation |title=Origin of Navy Terminology |url=http://www.history.navy.mil/library/online/origin.htm#pea |publisher=Navy Internal Relations Activity, Office of the Chief of Information |others=LT John W. Alexander, Director}}</ref>
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Today, the style is considered a classic, and pea coats are worn by all manner of individuals. The style has evolved to the addition of hoods.
Today, the style is considered a classic, and pea coats are worn by all manner of individuals. The style has evolved to the addition of hoods.


While some of the jackets seen on the street are genuine navy surplus, most are designs inspired by the classic uniform and available from retailers with design variations that reflect current fashion trends, including a variety of fabrics and colours. The standard [[US Navy]]-issued pea coat uses dark blue or black wool and sports buttons (originally in brass and later black plastic) decorated with an anchor motif. The standard fabric for historical pea coats in the 20th century was a smooth and heavy, dark navy blue [[Kersey (cloth)|Kersey]] wool, which was dense enough to repel wind and rain, and able to contain body heat without further insulation. This wool was left lightly treated after being sheared to retain much of the natural lanolin oil from sheep, thus increasing its water-repelling and insulating properties.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://ask.metafilter.com/233297/Waterproofing-a-wool-coat|title = Waterproofing a wool coat}}</ref> <ref>{{Cite web|title=PEACOAT DATING|url=https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/peacoat-dating.35824/|access-date=2021-09-27|website=The Fedora Lounge|language=en-US}}</ref> Kersey was gradually replaced in the U.S. Navy through the 1970s by the rougher black [[Melton Mowbray#Melton cloth|Melton cloth]] (also lightly treated), a lighter wool that requires a quilted lining to match the warmth of the original Kersey.<ref name="usnavy">{{cite web |url=http://www.public.navy.mil/bupers-npc/support/uniforms/uniformregulations/uniformcomponents/Pages/3501_41.aspx |title=§5 Article 3501.41 Peacoat (E6 and Below) |work=U.S. Navy Uniform Regulations |access-date=2009-10-16 }}</ref>
While some of the jackets seen on the street are genuine navy surplus, most are designs inspired by the classic uniform and available from retailers with design variations that reflect current fashion trends, including a variety of fabrics and colours. The standard [[US Navy]]-issued pea coat uses Navy blue wool and sports buttons (brass for officers, black plastic for enlisted) decorated with an anchor motif. The standard fabric for historical pea coats in the 20th century was a smooth and heavy, dark navy blue [[Kersey (cloth)|Kersey]] wool, which was dense enough to repel wind and rain, and able to contain body heat without further insulation. This wool was left lightly treated after being sheared to retain much of the natural lanolin oil from sheep, thus increasing its water-repelling and insulating properties.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://ask.metafilter.com/233297/Waterproofing-a-wool-coat|title = Waterproofing a wool coat}}</ref> <ref>{{Cite web|title=PEACOAT DATING|url=https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/peacoat-dating.35824/|access-date=2021-09-27|website=The Fedora Lounge|date=23 January 2009 |language=en-US}}</ref> Kersey was gradually replaced in the U.S. Navy through the 1970s by the rougher black [[Melton Mowbray#Melton cloth|Melton cloth]] (also lightly treated), a lighter wool that requires a quilted lining to match the warmth of the original Kersey.<ref name="usnavy">{{cite web |url=http://www.public.navy.mil/bupers-npc/support/uniforms/uniformregulations/uniformcomponents/Pages/3501_41.aspx |title=§5 Article 3501.41 Peacoat (E6 and Below) |work=U.S. Navy Uniform Regulations |access-date=2009-10-16 }}</ref>


[[File:Сустрэча немцаў і бальшавікоў пад Дабучынам.jpg|thumb|right|Russian armour [[junior officer]]s (centre) wearing double-breasted leather coats during the [[1939 Invasion of Poland]]]]
[[File:Сустрэча немцаў і бальшавікоў пад Дабучынам.jpg|thumb|right|Russian armour [[junior officer]]s (centre) wearing double-breasted leather coats during the [[1939 Invasion of Poland]]]]

Latest revision as of 09:06, 3 November 2024

Military surplus coat, produced for the US Navy

A pea coat (or peacoat, pea jacket, pilot jacket) is an outer coat, generally of a navy-coloured heavy wool,[1] originally worn by sailors of European and later American navies.[2] Pea coats are characterized by short length, broad lapels, double-breasted fronts, often large wooden, metal or plastic buttons, three or four in two rows, and vertical or slash pockets.[3] References to the pea jacket appear in American newspapers at least as early as the 1720s,[4] and modern renditions still maintain the original design and composition.[1]

A reefer jacket is an officer's or chief petty officer's pea coat, with the same design but bearing gold buttons and epaulettes.[2] A bridge coat is a reefer jacket which extends to the thighs, giving greater protection to an officer who does not need agility to climb the rigging.[5]

Etymology

[edit]

According to a 1975 edition of The Mariner's Mirror, the term "pea coat" originated from the Dutch or West Frisian word pijjekker or pijjakker, in which pij referred to the type of cloth used, a coarse kind of twilled blue cloth with a nap on one side. Jakker designates a man’s short, heavy coat.[6]

Another theory, favoured by the US Navy, is that the heavy topcoat worn in cold, miserable weather by seafaring men was once tailored from "pilot cloth" — a heavy, coarse, stout kind of twilled blue cloth with the nap on one side. This was sometimes called P-cloth from the initial letter of pilot, and the garment made from it was called a P-jacket — later a pea coat. The term has been used since 1723 to denote coats made from that cloth.[7]

Characteristics

[edit]

Today, the style is considered a classic, and pea coats are worn by all manner of individuals. The style has evolved to the addition of hoods.

While some of the jackets seen on the street are genuine navy surplus, most are designs inspired by the classic uniform and available from retailers with design variations that reflect current fashion trends, including a variety of fabrics and colours. The standard US Navy-issued pea coat uses Navy blue wool and sports buttons (brass for officers, black plastic for enlisted) decorated with an anchor motif. The standard fabric for historical pea coats in the 20th century was a smooth and heavy, dark navy blue Kersey wool, which was dense enough to repel wind and rain, and able to contain body heat without further insulation. This wool was left lightly treated after being sheared to retain much of the natural lanolin oil from sheep, thus increasing its water-repelling and insulating properties.[8] [9] Kersey was gradually replaced in the U.S. Navy through the 1970s by the rougher black Melton cloth (also lightly treated), a lighter wool that requires a quilted lining to match the warmth of the original Kersey.[10]

Russian armour junior officers (centre) wearing double-breasted leather coats during the 1939 Invasion of Poland

A black leather version of the reefer jacket was worn by Kriegsmarine U-boat officers during World War II, including Admiral Dönitz.[11] It was also worn with a peaked cap by Red Army commissars,[12] tank commanders, and pilots.[13]

See also

[edit]

References

[edit]
  1. ^ a b "US Navy-style Pea ("P") Coat". US Wings Inc. 2008. Archived from the original on 2007-10-17. Retrieved 2007-12-31.
  2. ^ a b Josh Williams (2013). "The History of the Pea Coat". Tails. Archived from the original on 2014-01-07. Retrieved 2014-01-07.
  3. ^ Stilson, Sam (2007). "The Perfection Of The Pea Coat". The Soko. Retrieved 2007-12-31.
  4. ^ "untitled". Boston Gazette. No. 22. May 9–16, 1720. p. 3.
  5. ^ "What is a Reefer Jacket?". 2015-04-22. Retrieved 2019-11-11.
  6. ^ Leonard George Carr Laughton; Roger Charles Anderson; William Gordon Perrin (1975). "The Mariner's Mirror". The Mariner's Mirror. 61: 26.
  7. ^ Origin of Navy Terminology, LT John W. Alexander, Director, Navy Internal Relations Activity, Office of the Chief of Information{{citation}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
  8. ^ "Waterproofing a wool coat".
  9. ^ "PEACOAT DATING". The Fedora Lounge. 23 January 2009. Retrieved 2021-09-27.
  10. ^ "§5 Article 3501.41 Peacoat (E6 and Below)". U.S. Navy Uniform Regulations. Retrieved 2009-10-16.
  11. ^ Hoyt, Edwin P. (March 4, 2002). The U-Boat Wars. Cooper Square Press. ISBN 9781461661306 – via Google Books.
  12. ^ Stites, Richard (November 14, 1991). Revolutionary Dreams: Utopian Vision and Experimental Life in the Russian Revolution. Oxford University Press. ISBN 9780199878956 – via Google Books.
  13. ^ Chamberlin, William Henry (July 14, 2014). The Russian Revolution, Volume II: 1918–1921: From the Civil War to the Consolidation of Power. Princeton University Press. ISBN 9781400858705 – via Google Books.
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