Salmagundi: Difference between revisions
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{{Short description|Dish}} |
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{{other uses}} |
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{{distinguish|text=[[Solomon gundy]] or [[Solomon Grundy (disambiguation)|Solomon Grundy]]}} |
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{{Infobox prepared food |
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| name = Salmagundi |
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| alternate_name = Salmi |
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| country = [[England]] |
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| creator = |
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| type = [[Salad]] |
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'''Salmagundi''' (alternatively '''salmagundy''' or '''sallid magundi''') is a cold dish or [[salad]] made from different ingredients which may include [[meat]], [[seafood]], [[Egg as food|egg]]s, cooked and raw [[vegetable]]s, [[fruits]], or [[Pickling|pickles]]. In English culture, the term does not refer to a single [[recipe]] but describes the grand presentation of a large plated salad of many disparate ingredients. These can be arranged in layers or geometrical designs on a plate or mixed. The ingredients are then drizzled with a dressing. The dish includes a wide range of [[Flavour (taste)|flavours]] and colours and textures on a single plate. Often recipes allow the [[Cook (profession)|cook]] to add various ingredients which may be available at hand, producing many variations of the dish. Flowers from [[Broom (shrub)|broom]] and [[sweet violet]] were often used.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book |last=Davidson |first=Alan |title=The Oxford companion to food |date=2014 |editor=Tom Jaine |isbn=978-0-19-967733-7 |edition=3rd |location=New York |oclc=890807357}}</ref> |
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==Etymology== |
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There is debate over the sense and origin of the word.<ref>{{cite news | first = Craig | last = Claiborne | url = https://www.nytimes.com/1978/01/16/archives/the-salmagundi-debate-continues-a-cold-salad-another-source.html | title = The 'Salmagundi' Debate Continues; A Cold Salad Another Source" | date = January 16, 1978 | newspaper = The New York Times }}</ref> The word ''salmagundi'' may be derived from the obscure 16th century [[French language|French]] word ''salmigondis'' which means disparate assembly of things, ideas or people, forming an incoherent whole.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.thefreedictionary.com/salmagundi |title=The Free Dictionary |year=2010 |publisher=Farlex, Inc. |access-date=2010-03-29}}</ref> It may also come from the Italian phrase ''salami conduit'' (pickled meat).<ref name=":1">{{Cite book |last=Hughes |first=Glyn |title=Lost foods of England |date=2017 |publisher=Lulu.com |isbn=978-0-244-02963-0 |oclc=1012656959}}{{sps|date=July 2022}}</ref> In [[Thomas Blount (lexicographer)|Thomas Blount's]] ''Glossographia'' (1656), salamagundi is described as "a dish of meat made of cold Turkey and other ingredients". Helen Sabeeri points out that the essential root word of salmigondis is 'sal- (salt or seasoning) and that the dish is 'usually a fish of some sort'.<ref name=":0" /> It seems to appear in English for the first time in the 17th century as a dish of cooked [[meat]]s, [[seafood]], [[vegetable]]s, [[fruit]], [[leaf vegetable|leaves]], [[nut (fruit)|nuts]] and [[Edible flowers|flowers]] and dressed with [[oil]], [[vinegar]] and [[spice]]s. Salmagundi is used figuratively in modern [[English language|English]] to mean "any miscellaneous mixture or assortment."<ref name=":1" /> |
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A typical early 17th century recipe is: |
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==History== |
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<blockquote> |
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===Seventeenth century=== |
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''"Cut cold roast chicken or other meats into slices. Mix with minced tarragon and an onion. Mix all together with capers, olives, samphire, broombuds, mushrooms, oysters, lemon, orange, raisins, almonds, blue figs, Virginia potatoes, peas and red and white currants. Garnish with sliced oranges and lemons. Cover with oil and vinegar, beaten together."'' |
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Late in the seventeenth century, the name salmagundi was applied to the grand salads of large houses. These compound salads descended from medieval herb and flower salads. Raw salads, according to food historian [[C. Anne Wilson]], 'had never come under the same sort of disapproval as fresh fruit, partly because so many salad plants were thought to have medicinal properties. Moreover, in a skilfully mixed salad, aromatic herbs noted for their warm, dry qualities, could counteract the coldness of other kinds, such as [[lettuce]], [[purslane]] or [[endive]]'. During the reign of [[Elizabeth I]] fruits and vegetables and hard-boiled eggs were added to them.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Wilson |first=C. Anne |title=Food & drink in Britain: from the Stone Age to recent times |date=1973 |publisher=Constable |isbn=0-09-456040-4 |location=London |oclc=859209}}</ref> |
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</blockquote> |
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from ''The Good Huswives Treasure'', Robert May, [[1588]]-[[1660]] |
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===Eighteenth-century recipes=== |
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Salmagundi is also purportedly a meal served on [[pirate]] ships. It is a stew of anything the cook had on hand, usually consisting of chopped [[meat]], [[anchovies]], [[egg (food)|egg]]s, and [[onion]]s, often arranged in rows on [[lettuce]] and served with vinegar and oil, and spiced with anything available. |
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An early recipe for salmagundi comes from ''[[A Collection of Above Three Hundred Receipts in Cookery, Physick and Surgery|A Collection of Above Three Hundred Receipts in Cookery, Physick, and Surgery: For the Use of All Good Wives, Tender Mothers, and Careful Nurses]]'' by [[A Collection of Above Three Hundred Receipts in Cookery, Physick and Surgery|Mary Kettiby]] (1734): |
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<blockquote>To make a Cold Hash, or Salad-Magundy. TAKE a cold Turkey, two cold Chickens, or, if you have neither, a piece of fine white Veal will do; cut the Breasts of these Fowls into fair dices, and Mince all the rest; to the Quantity of two Chickens you must take eight or ten large Anchovies, wash and bone them, eight large pickled Oysters, ten or twelve fine green pickled Cucumbers, shred the Oysters, the Anchovies, the Cucumbers, and one whole Lemon small, mix them with the shred Meat, lay it in the middle of the Dish, lay the Dices of the white part round the Dish, with halv'd Anchovies, whole pickled Oysters, quarter'd Cucumbers, sliced Lemon, whole pickled Mushrooms, Capers or any Pickle you like; cut also some fine Lettice, and lay round among the Garnish, but put not Oil and Vinegar to the Minced Meat, till it comes to Table.<ref name="kettilby">{{cite book |last1=Kettilby |first1=Mary |url=https://archive.org/details/acollectionabov00kettgoog/page/n209/mode/2up?q=magundy |title=A collection of above three hundred receipts in cookery, physick, and surgery: for the use of all good wives, tender mothers, and careful nurses |date=1734 |publisher=London : Printed for the executrix of Mary Kettilby, and sold by W. Parker ... |location=London |pages=204–205 |access-date=11 December 2020}}</ref></blockquote> |
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The following is taken from a reprint of Mrs. Hill's New Cook Book, originall published in 1867 and republished by Applewood Books of Bedford, Mass. |
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A later recipe for salmagundi from ''The Lady's Assistant for Regulating and Supplying Her Table'' by Charlotte Mason (1777) includes roasted chicken or roasted veal, boiled eggs, parsley, a herring, anchovies, beetroot and red cabbage. A saucer or china basin is placed in the middle of a dish and the ingredients are laid in rows, 'according to taste', the rows get narrower towards the top of the bowl. At the top butter."<ref>{{Cite web |last=Mason |first=Charlotte |date=16 July 2022 |title=The Lady's Assistant 1777 |url=http://www.foodsofengland.co.uk/book_ladys_assistant_1777.htm |access-date=16 July 2022 |website=Foods of England}}</ref> |
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"Boil two calf's feet; take the feet out when done; reduce the broth to a quart. The feet may be fried and used, first removing the bones. Let the broth become cold in an earthen vessel; scrape off all the grease; wipe the top of the jelly with a coarse towel; put the cake of jelly into a kettle lined with tin or porcelain; season it with two lemons cut up (removing the seed), fine blades of mace, a stick of cinnamon, pepper (white pepper is best), and salt to taste. Beat to a froth the whites of six eggs; stir these to the jelly just as it melts; it must then be left to clarify and not stirred again. When it simmers long enough to look clear at the sides, strain it through a flannel bag before the fire; do not squeeze the bag. Suspend it by running a stick through a loop made by tying the bag; rest each end of the stick upon a chair, and throw a table-cloth over all to keep out the dust. If the jelly does not run through clear the first time, pour it through the jelly-bag again. Set this aside. |
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"Prepare the meat and seasoning for the pie. Put into a stew-pan slices of pickled pork, using a piece of pork four inches square; if it is very salt[y] lay it an hour in tepid water. Cut up two young, tender chickens--a terrapin, if it is convenient--two or three young squirrels, half a dozen birds or squabs. Stew them gently, cutting up and adding a few sprigs of parsley. Roll into half a pound of butter two tablespoonfuls of flour; add this to the stew until the meat is nearly done. Line a fire-proof dish, or two fire-proof dishes (this quantity of stew will fill two common-sized or quart dishes;) with good pastry; mix the different kinds of meats; put in Irish potato dumplings; season to taste; pour in the gravy and bake. When done, remove the upper crust when the pie is cold and pack in the jelly, heaping the jelly in the middle. Return the crust and serve cold or hot. The jelly will prevent them become too dry. They are good Christmas pies and will keep several days. Very little gravy should be used, and that rich. Should there be too much, leave the stew-pan open until reduced sufficiently. This kind of pie keeps well if made in deep plates, and by some is preferred to those baked in deep moulds." |
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==Quote== |
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<blockquote>Salmagundi is more of a concept than a recipe. Essentially, it is a large composed salad that incorporates meat, seafood, cooked vegetables, raw vegetables, fruits, and nuts and is arranged in an elaborate way. Think of it as the British answer to [[Salad Niçoise]].—<ref>{{cite web |last1=Oland |first1=Sydney |title=Salmagundi Recipe |url=https://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2013/04/salmagundi-recipe.html |website=Serious Eats |access-date=25 October 2020 |language=en |date=April 24, 2013}}</ref></blockquote> |
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The word salmagundi is derived from the [[French language|French]] word salmigondis which means disparate assembly of things, ideas or people, forming an incoherent whole. Salmagundi is used figuratively in modern [[English language|English]] to mean a mixture or assortment of things. |
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==See also== |
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The name was later corrupted to Solomon Gundy in the eighteenth century. It seems likely that the name is connected with the children’s rhyme, [[Solomon Grundy]]. Solomon Gundy retains its food connotation today as the name given to a spicy [[Caribbean]] paste made of mashed pickled-herrings, peppers and onions. |
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* [[List of salads]] |
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* [[Colgate University]], which uses ''Salmagundi'' as the title of the annual student yearbook<ref>{{cite web |url=https://digitalcollections.colgate.edu/collections/colgate-university-student-yearbooks |title=Colgate University Student Yearbooks |website=colgate.edu |accessdate=June 29, 2023}}</ref> |
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* [[Solomon Gundy]], a spicy [[Caribbean]] paste made of mashed, pickled herrings, peppers and onions. In [[Jamaica]], the term refers more specifically to a dish made of [[Salted fish|salt herring]] and spices.<ref>''The food of Jamaica: authentic recipes from the jewel of the Caribbean''. John DeMers, Eduardo Fuss. Tuttle Publishing, 1998. {{ISBN|962-593-401-4}}, {{ISBN|978-962-593-401-3}}, p. 123</ref> |
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==Washington Irving satire== |
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<references/> |
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==Sources== |
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"[[Salmagundi]]" is also the title of an [[1807]] satirical work by [[Washington Irving]], with the title being derived from the dish. The work is nowadays remembered especially for first popularizing the [[sobriquet]] ''[[Gotham]]'' for [[New York City]]. |
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{{Salads}} |
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[[Category:English cuisine]] |
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{{food-stub}} |
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[[Category:Salads]] |
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[[Category:Anchovy dishes]] |
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Latest revision as of 00:20, 7 November 2024
| Alternative names | Salmi |
|---|---|
| Type | Salad |
| Place of origin | England |
| Main ingredients | Meats, seafood, vegetables, fruit, leaves, nuts and flowers, oil, vinegar, spices |
Salmagundi (alternatively salmagundy or sallid magundi) is a cold dish or salad made from different ingredients which may include meat, seafood, eggs, cooked and raw vegetables, fruits, or pickles. In English culture, the term does not refer to a single recipe but describes the grand presentation of a large plated salad of many disparate ingredients. These can be arranged in layers or geometrical designs on a plate or mixed. The ingredients are then drizzled with a dressing. The dish includes a wide range of flavours and colours and textures on a single plate. Often recipes allow the cook to add various ingredients which may be available at hand, producing many variations of the dish. Flowers from broom and sweet violet were often used.[1]
Etymology
[edit]There is debate over the sense and origin of the word.[2] The word salmagundi may be derived from the obscure 16th century French word salmigondis which means disparate assembly of things, ideas or people, forming an incoherent whole.[3] It may also come from the Italian phrase salami conduit (pickled meat).[4] In Thomas Blount's Glossographia (1656), salamagundi is described as "a dish of meat made of cold Turkey and other ingredients". Helen Sabeeri points out that the essential root word of salmigondis is 'sal- (salt or seasoning) and that the dish is 'usually a fish of some sort'.[1] It seems to appear in English for the first time in the 17th century as a dish of cooked meats, seafood, vegetables, fruit, leaves, nuts and flowers and dressed with oil, vinegar and spices. Salmagundi is used figuratively in modern English to mean "any miscellaneous mixture or assortment."[4]
History
[edit]Seventeenth century
[edit]Late in the seventeenth century, the name salmagundi was applied to the grand salads of large houses. These compound salads descended from medieval herb and flower salads. Raw salads, according to food historian C. Anne Wilson, 'had never come under the same sort of disapproval as fresh fruit, partly because so many salad plants were thought to have medicinal properties. Moreover, in a skilfully mixed salad, aromatic herbs noted for their warm, dry qualities, could counteract the coldness of other kinds, such as lettuce, purslane or endive'. During the reign of Elizabeth I fruits and vegetables and hard-boiled eggs were added to them.[5]
Eighteenth-century recipes
[edit]An early recipe for salmagundi comes from A Collection of Above Three Hundred Receipts in Cookery, Physick, and Surgery: For the Use of All Good Wives, Tender Mothers, and Careful Nurses by Mary Kettiby (1734):
To make a Cold Hash, or Salad-Magundy. TAKE a cold Turkey, two cold Chickens, or, if you have neither, a piece of fine white Veal will do; cut the Breasts of these Fowls into fair dices, and Mince all the rest; to the Quantity of two Chickens you must take eight or ten large Anchovies, wash and bone them, eight large pickled Oysters, ten or twelve fine green pickled Cucumbers, shred the Oysters, the Anchovies, the Cucumbers, and one whole Lemon small, mix them with the shred Meat, lay it in the middle of the Dish, lay the Dices of the white part round the Dish, with halv'd Anchovies, whole pickled Oysters, quarter'd Cucumbers, sliced Lemon, whole pickled Mushrooms, Capers or any Pickle you like; cut also some fine Lettice, and lay round among the Garnish, but put not Oil and Vinegar to the Minced Meat, till it comes to Table.[6]
A later recipe for salmagundi from The Lady's Assistant for Regulating and Supplying Her Table by Charlotte Mason (1777) includes roasted chicken or roasted veal, boiled eggs, parsley, a herring, anchovies, beetroot and red cabbage. A saucer or china basin is placed in the middle of a dish and the ingredients are laid in rows, 'according to taste', the rows get narrower towards the top of the bowl. At the top butter."[7]
Quote
[edit]Salmagundi is more of a concept than a recipe. Essentially, it is a large composed salad that incorporates meat, seafood, cooked vegetables, raw vegetables, fruits, and nuts and is arranged in an elaborate way. Think of it as the British answer to Salad Niçoise.—[8]
See also
[edit]- List of salads
- Colgate University, which uses Salmagundi as the title of the annual student yearbook[9]
- Solomon Gundy, a spicy Caribbean paste made of mashed, pickled herrings, peppers and onions. In Jamaica, the term refers more specifically to a dish made of salt herring and spices.[10]
References
[edit]- ^ a b Davidson, Alan (2014). Tom Jaine (ed.). The Oxford companion to food (3rd ed.). New York. ISBN 978-0-19-967733-7. OCLC 890807357.
{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link) - ^ Claiborne, Craig (January 16, 1978). "The 'Salmagundi' Debate Continues; A Cold Salad Another Source"". The New York Times.
- ^ "The Free Dictionary". Farlex, Inc. 2010. Retrieved 2010-03-29.
- ^ a b Hughes, Glyn (2017). Lost foods of England. Lulu.com. ISBN 978-0-244-02963-0. OCLC 1012656959.[self-published source?]
- ^ Wilson, C. Anne (1973). Food & drink in Britain: from the Stone Age to recent times. London: Constable. ISBN 0-09-456040-4. OCLC 859209.
- ^ Kettilby, Mary (1734). A collection of above three hundred receipts in cookery, physick, and surgery: for the use of all good wives, tender mothers, and careful nurses. London: London : Printed for the executrix of Mary Kettilby, and sold by W. Parker ... pp. 204–205. Retrieved 11 December 2020.
- ^ Mason, Charlotte (16 July 2022). "The Lady's Assistant 1777". Foods of England. Retrieved 16 July 2022.
- ^ Oland, Sydney (April 24, 2013). "Salmagundi Recipe". Serious Eats. Retrieved 25 October 2020.
- ^ "Colgate University Student Yearbooks". colgate.edu. Retrieved June 29, 2023.
- ^ The food of Jamaica: authentic recipes from the jewel of the Caribbean. John DeMers, Eduardo Fuss. Tuttle Publishing, 1998. ISBN 962-593-401-4, ISBN 978-962-593-401-3, p. 123
Sources
[edit]- Richard Mabey, Food for Free – A guide to the edible wild plants of Britain. 1972.
