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Coordinates: 45°40′08″N 8°09′40″E / 45.6689°N 8.1610°E / 45.6689; 8.1610
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| type = [[Public company|Public]]
| type = [[Public company|Public]]
| traded_as = {{NYSE|ZGN}}
| traded_as = {{NYSE|ZGN}}
| foundation = [[Trivero]], Italy (1910)
| foundation = {{Start date and age|1910}} in [[Trivero]], Italy
| founder = Ermenegildo Zegna
| founder = [[Ermenegildo Zegna (businessman)|Ermenegildo Zegna]]
| location_city = [[Milan]]
| location_city = [[Milan]]
| location_country = Italy <small>{{nowrap|{{coord|45.6689|8.1610|display=inline,title}}}} </small>
| location_country = Italy {{nowrap|{{coord|45.6689|8.1610|display=inline,title}}}}
| area_served = Worldwide
| area_served = Worldwide
| key_people = {{plainlist|
| key_people = [[Ermenegildo Zegna (businessman)|Ermenegildo Zegna]] (CEO & Chairman)<br>
* Ermenegildo Zegna (CEO & chairman)
[[Alessandro Sartori]] (artistic director)<br>[[Thom Browne]] (Founder & Chief Creative Officer, Thom Browne)
* Rodrigo Bazan (CEO, Thom Browne)
* Lelio Gavazza (CEO, TOM FORD FASHION)
* Alessandro Sartori (Artistic Director, ZEGNA)
* Thom Browne (Founder & CCO, Thom Browne)
}}
| industry = [[Fashion industry|Fashion]] and [[Textile industry|textiles]]
| industry = [[Fashion industry|Fashion]] and [[Textile industry|textiles]]
| revenue = €1.292&nbsp;billion (2021)
| revenue = {{increase}} €1,904&nbsp;million (2023)<ref name=AR23 />
| operating_income =
| operating_income = {{increase}} €208&nbsp;million (2023)<ref name=AR23 />
| net_income = €75&nbsp;million (adjusted, 2021)
| net_income = {{increase}} €136&nbsp;million (2023)<ref name=AR23 />
| assets = {{increase}} €2,767&nbsp;million (2023)<ref name=AR23 />
| assets =
| equity = {{increase}} €901&nbsp;million (2023)<ref name=AR23 />
| equity =
| owner = Zegna family
| owner = Zegna family
| num_employees = 7,201 (2023)<ref name=AR23>{{Cite web |url=https://www.sec.gov/ix?doc=/Archives/edgar/data/1877787/000187778724000015/zgn-20231231.htm |title=2023 Annual Report (Form 20-F)| date=5 April 2024 |publisher=US Securities and Exchange Commission}}</ref>
| num_employees = 6,500
| parent =
| parent =
| divisions =
| divisions =
| subsid = {{flatlist|
| subsid = {{flatlist|
* Zegna
* ZEGNA
* Thom Browne
* Thom Browne
* [[Tom Ford (brand)|Tom Ford]]
* [[Tom Ford (brand)|TOM FORD FASHION]]
* ''Filiera'' (Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna, Tessitura di Novara, Pettinatura di Verrone, Bonotto, Cappellificio Cervo, Dondi, Tessitura Ubertino, Filati Biagioli Modesto e Luigi Fedeli e Figlio)
* Lanificio Zegna
* Tessitura di Novara
* Pettinatura di Verrone
* Bonotto
* Dondi
* Tessitura Ubertino
* Filati Biagioli Modesto
* Cappellificio Cervo
}}
}}
| homepage = {{URL|https://www.zegnagroup.com/en/|zegnagroup.com}}
| homepage = {{URL|https://www.zegnagroup.com/en/|zegnagroup.com}}
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| intl =
| intl =
}}
}}
'''Ermenegildo Zegna N.V.''', also known as '''Zegna''' ({{IPA-it|ˈdzeɲɲa}}) or the '''Ermenegildo Zegna Group''', is an Italian luxury [[fashion house]]. It was founded in 1910 by Ermenegildo Zegna in [[Trivero, Biella]], in the [[Piedmont]] region of [[northern Italy]].<ref name=":0">{{Cite magazine |last=Tyrnauer |first=Matt |date=June 2010 |title=Dream Weavers |url=https://www.vanityfair.com/culture/2010/06/zegna-spotlight-201006 |others=Wayne Maser (photography) |department=Spotlight |website=[[Vanity Fair (magazine)|Vanity Fair]] |access-date=4 June 2020}}</ref> As of 2021, it is a [[public company]] that is listed on the [[New York Stock Exchange]].<ref name="Snelling">{{Cite web |last=Snelling |first=Brin |title=How Zegna, Italian Luxury Retailer, Is Reinventing Itself As A Public Company |url=https://www.forbes.com/sites/brinsnelling/2021/12/27/how-zegna-italian-luxury-retailer-is-reinventing-itself-as-a-public-company/ |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=Forbes |language=en}}</ref>
'''Ermenegildo Zegna N.V.''', also known as '''Zegna Group''' ({{IPA|it|ˈdzeɲɲa}}) or the '''Ermenegildo Zegna Group''', is an Italian luxury [[fashion house]] headquartered in [[Milan]]. It was founded in 1910 by Ermenegildo Zegna in [[Trivero, Biella]], in the [[Piedmont]] region of [[northern Italy]].<ref name=":0">{{Cite magazine |last=Tyrnauer |first=Matt |date=June 2010 |title=Dream Weavers |url=https://www.vanityfair.com/culture/2010/06/zegna-spotlight-201006 |others=Wayne Maser (photography) |department=Spotlight |website=[[Vanity Fair (magazine)|Vanity Fair]] |access-date=4 June 2020}}</ref> It is led by the Zegna family and is one of the most renowned Italian men’s clothing businesses internationally. As of 2021, it is a [[public company]] that is listed on the [[New York Stock Exchange]].<ref name="Snelling">{{Cite web |last=Snelling |first=Brin |title=How Zegna, Italian Luxury Retailer, Is Reinventing Itself As A Public Company |url=https://www.forbes.com/sites/brinsnelling/2021/12/27/how-zegna-italian-luxury-retailer-is-reinventing-itself-as-a-public-company/ |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=Forbes |language=en}}</ref>


==History==
==History==
=== Foundation and early years ===
=== Foundation and early years ===
Prior to the founding of the company, founder Ermenegildo Zegna's father Angelo a former watchmaker owned a wool mill and looms in the [[Alps]] of [[Piedmont, Italy]].<ref name="Preston">{{Cite news|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/mens-style/zealous-zegna-global-brand-scales-new-heights-maintaining-family/|title=Zealous about Zegna: how the global brand scales new heights while maintaining family values|last=Preston|first=Alex|date=17 March 2018|work=The Telegraph|access-date=12 September 2019|issn=0307-1235}}</ref> Ermenegildo, together with his brothers Edoardo and Mario, founded the company in 1910 in Trivero in the [[Biellese Alps]] when he was only 18, utilizing his father's looms and assets.<ref name=":1">{{Cite web|url=https://www.cnbc.com/2017/06/08/meet-the-family-behind-ermenegildo-zegna.html|title=Meet the family behind Ermenegildo Zegna|last=Tan|first=Liza|date=8 June 2017|publisher=CNBC|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref><ref name=":2">{{Cite web|url=https://www.grailed.com/drycleanonly/ermenegildo-zegna-master-class|title=A Legacy of Thread The Unrivaled Ermenegildo Zegna|website=Grailed|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref> In 1915 the company was renamed ''Fratelli Zegna di Angelo''.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/article/ermenegildo-zegna-suits-gildo-zegna-interview|title=One step beyond|website=British GQ|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref>[[File:Ermenegildo Zegna 1892 1966.png|left|thumb|Ermenegildo Zegna (1892–1966)]]
The origins of the family business date back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when Michelangelo (Angelo) Zegna (1859–1923), a watchmaker from Trivero, Biella, decided to open a textile factory in the nearby town of Flecchia.<ref name="Preston">{{Cite news|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/mens-style/zealous-zegna-global-brand-scales-new-heights-maintaining-family/|title=Zealous about Zegna: how the global brand scales new heights while maintaining family values|last=Preston|first=Alex|date=17 March 2018|work=The Telegraph|access-date=12 September 2019|issn=0307-1235}}</ref> In 1910, three of Angelo’s ten children, including the youngest Ermenegildo (born in 1892), along with a fourth partner, Costanzo Giardino Vitri, founded Lanificio Zegna & Giardino Vitri in Trivero in the [[Biellese Alps]].<ref name=":1">{{Cite web|url=https://www.cnbc.com/2017/06/08/meet-the-family-behind-ermenegildo-zegna.html|title=Meet the family behind Ermenegildo Zegna|last=Tan|first=Liza|date=8 June 2017|publisher=CNBC|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref><ref name=":2">{{Cite web|url=https://www.grailed.com/drycleanonly/ermenegildo-zegna-master-class|title=A Legacy of Thread The Unrivaled Ermenegildo Zegna|website=Grailed|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref> With the early departure of Vitri and one of the brothers, Ermenegildo took the helm from the beginning, joined by his brother Mario until the early 1940s.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/article/ermenegildo-zegna-suits-gildo-zegna-interview|title=One step beyond|website=British GQ|date=20 December 2013 |access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref>[[File:Ermenegildo Zegna 1892 1966.png|left|thumb|Ermenegildo Zegna (1892–1966)]]


=== Growth ===
=== Growth ===
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During the Interwar period, Zegna's business started to flourish. In the late 1920s, the Lanificio (wool mill) employed more than 700 workers,<ref name=":2" /> growing to more than 1,000 in the late 1930s.<ref name=":3">{{Cite book|title=Wise Growth Strategies in Leading Family Businesses|last=Schwass|first=Joachim|publisher=Palgrave Macmillan|year=2005|pages=17}}</ref> In 1938 the company began to export fabrics in the [[United States|US]], through its subsidiary Zegna Woollens Corporation established in New York City.<ref name=":2" />
During the Interwar period, Zegna's business started to flourish. In the late 1920s, the Lanificio (wool mill) employed more than 700 workers,<ref name=":2" /> growing to more than 1,000 in the late 1930s.<ref name=":3">{{Cite book|title=Wise Growth Strategies in Leading Family Businesses|last=Schwass|first=Joachim|publisher=Palgrave Macmillan|year=2005|pages=17}}</ref> In 1938 the company began to export fabrics in the [[United States|US]], through its subsidiary Zegna Woollens Corporation established in New York City.<ref name=":2" />


In 1942, Ermenegildo's sons Aldo (born in 1920) and Angelo (born in 1924) entered the company, which was renamed ''Ermenegildo Zegna and Sons''.<ref name=":3" /><ref name=":4">{{Cite book|title=Wise wealth : creating it, managing it, preserving it|date=2011|publisher=Palgrave Macmillan|others=Schwass, Joachim, 1950–|isbn=9780230295278|location=Basingstoke|pages=40|oclc=711993754}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|title=Historical Dictionary of the Fashion Industry|last1=Sterlacci|first1=Francesca|last2=Arbuckle|first2=Joanne|publisher=Rowman & Littlefield|year=2017|pages=550}}</ref> In the mid-1950s, the company employed 1,400 workers.<ref name=":3" />
In 1942, Ermenegildo's sons Aldo (born in 1920) and Angelo (born in 1924) entered the company, which was renamed ''Ermenegildo Zegna and Sons''.<ref name=":3" /><ref name=":4">{{Cite book|title=Wise wealth : creating it, managing it, preserving it|date=2011|publisher=Palgrave Macmillan |author= Joachim Schwass |author2=Håkan Hillerström |author3=Holger Kück |author4=Colleen Lief|isbn=9780230295278|location=Basingstoke|pages=40|oclc=711993754}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|title=Historical Dictionary of the Fashion Industry|last1=Sterlacci|first1=Francesca|last2=Arbuckle|first2=Joanne|publisher=Rowman & Littlefield|year=2017|pages=550}}</ref> In the mid-1950s, the company employed 1,400 workers.<ref name=":3" />


=== Second generation ===
=== Second generation ===
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In 1972, Zegna launched its made-to-measure service called ''Su Misura''.<ref name=":2" />
In 1972, Zegna launched its made-to-measure service called ''Su Misura''.<ref name=":2" />


Zegna's attention to wool quality continued through 1960s and 1970s, as the company established the Wool Awards in Australia (1963) and the Mohair Trophy in South Africa (1970).<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/woolly-minded-6838889/|title=Ermenegildo Zegna Wool Awards Turns 50}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://wwd.com/fashion-news/textiles/zegna-awards-mohair-handed-out-in-johannesburg-10722304/|title=Zegna Awards for Mohair Handed Out in Johannesburg}}</ref>
Zegna's attention to wool quality continued through 1960s and 1970s, as the company established the Wool Awards in Australia (1963) and the Mohair Trophy in South Africa (1970).<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/woolly-minded-6838889/|title=Ermenegildo Zegna Wool Awards Turns 50|date=11 March 2013 }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://wwd.com/fashion-news/textiles/zegna-awards-mohair-handed-out-in-johannesburg-10722304/|title=Zegna Awards for Mohair Handed Out in Johannesburg|date=7 December 2016 }}</ref>


The international development strategy run by the Zegna brothers brought to the openings of the first owned boutique in Paris in 1980, followed by [[Milan]] in 1985.<ref name=":3" /> In 1991 Zegna became the first luxury label to open a store in China.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/china-watch/business/ermenegildo-zegna-targets-chinese-shoppers/|title=London retailers target Chinese shoppers|date=26 April 2019|work=The Telegraph|access-date=12 September 2019|issn=0307-1235}}{{dead link|date=July 2021|bot=medic}}{{cbignore|bot=medic}}</ref>
The international development strategy run by the Zegna brothers brought to the openings of the first owned boutique in Paris in 1980, followed by [[Milan]] in 1985.<ref name=":3" /> In 1991 Zegna became the first luxury label to open a store in China.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/china-watch/business/ermenegildo-zegna-targets-chinese-shoppers/|title=London retailers target Chinese shoppers|date=26 April 2019|work=The Telegraph|access-date=12 September 2019|issn=0307-1235}}{{dead link|date=July 2021|bot=medic}}{{cbignore|bot=medic}}</ref>
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==== 1990s to present ====
==== 1990s to present ====
During the 1990s, the third generation of the Zegna family entered the business. Angelo's son, and namesake of the company's founder, [[Ermenegildo Zegna (fashion entrepreneur)|Ermenegildo "Gildo" Zegna]], became CEO of the Group in 1997;<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.comitatoleonardo.it/en/premi/2015-ermenegildo-zegna/|title=2015 – Ermenegildo Zegna|website=Comitato Leonardo|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref> his cousin Paolo became the chairman.<ref name=":1" /> Under their governance, the company began a strategy of brand extension and full verticalization.<ref name=":3" /><ref name=":4" />
During the 1990s, the third generation of the Zegna family entered the business. Angelo's son, and namesake of the company's founder, [[Ermenegildo Zegna (fashion entrepreneur)|Ermenegildo "Gildo" Zegna]], became CEO of the Group in 1997;<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.comitatoleonardo.it/en/premi/2015-ermenegildo-zegna/|title=2015 – Ermenegildo Zegna|website=Comitato Leonardo|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref> his cousin Paolo became the chairman.<ref name=":1" /> Under their governance, the company began a strategy of brand extension and full verticalization.<ref name=":3" /><ref name=":4" />

From 1990 to 2020, Zegna held the majority in women’s fashion brand Agnona brand; it was subsequently sold to the Aimone family, another branch of the Zegna family, with the Zegna group keeping 30 percent.<ref>Luisa Zargani (5 August 2020), [https://wwd.com/business-news/mergers-acquisitions/agnona-has-a-new-owner-1203693900/ Agnona Has a New Owner] ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]''</ref>


In 1991 Zegna was the first luxury brand to enter the China market, with a flagship store in Beijing;<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://jingdaily.com/china-zegna-ceo/|title=Innovation Starts in China Before Expanding West: Zegna CEO|date=31 October 2018|website=Jing Daily|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref> and one of the first to access the Indian market.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.forbesindia.com/article/real-issue/i-see-a-different-confidence-in-luxury-ermenegildo-zegna/49163/1|title=I see a different confidence in luxury: Ermenegildo Zegna|website=Forbes India|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref>
In 1991 Zegna was the first luxury brand to enter the China market, with a flagship store in Beijing;<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://jingdaily.com/china-zegna-ceo/|title=Innovation Starts in China Before Expanding West: Zegna CEO|date=31 October 2018|website=Jing Daily|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref> and one of the first to access the Indian market.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.forbesindia.com/article/real-issue/i-see-a-different-confidence-in-luxury-ermenegildo-zegna/49163/1|title=I see a different confidence in luxury: Ermenegildo Zegna|website=Forbes India|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref>
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==== Acquisitions ====
==== Acquisitions ====
Starting from the late 1990s, the Group has undertaken a series of acquisitions of Italian and foreign companies that have expanded its business scope and now form the ''“Filiera”'', a unique, company-owned and controlled entity, comprising selected Italian textile producers, integrated with the distinctive manufacturing capabilities of luxury, ensuring excellence, quality, and innovation.
Moreover, a large number of acquisitions and partnerships have been signed since the late 1990s to the present day.


In 2009, the Ermenegildo Zegna Group acquired a majority stake in Tessitura di Novara, a company specialized in high-quality silk weaving.<ref name=":7" />
In 2014, Zegna acquired the majority of Achill, an Australian wool farm counting about 12,500 sheep in its flock.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/ermenegildo-zegna-group-acquires-wool-farm-7791436/|title=Ermenegildo Zegna Group Acquires Wool Farm|last=Cynthia Martens|date=9 July 2014|work=Women's Wear Daily|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref>


In 2012, it acquired a minority stake in Pettinatura di Verrone, a company specializing in the combing of fine wools and natural fibers.<ref name=":8" />
In 2016, the Group acquired a majority stake in Bonotto, a high-end textile manufacturer based in Molvena, [[Vicenza]], Italy, giving the Group the possibility to explore new areas such as furnishing and experimental fabrics.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.luxury-insider.com/fashion-beauty/zegna-group-acquires-bonotto|title=Zegna Group Acquires Bonotto SpA|date=7 October 2016|website=Luxury Insider|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref>

In 2014, Zegna acquired the majority of Achill, an Australian [[wool]] farm counting about 12,500 sheep in its flock.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/ermenegildo-zegna-group-acquires-wool-farm-7791436/|title=Ermenegildo Zegna Group Acquires Wool Farm|last=Cynthia Martens|date=9 July 2014|work=Women's Wear Daily|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref>

In 2016, the Group acquired a majority stake in Bonotto, a high-end textile manufacturer based in Molvena, [[Vicenza]], giving the Group the possibility to explore new areas such as furnishing and experimental fabrics.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.luxury-insider.com/fashion-beauty/zegna-group-acquires-bonotto|title=Zegna Group Acquires Bonotto SpA|date=7 October 2016|website=Luxury Insider|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref>


Two years later, Zegna – through its subsidiary ZECA company – took over the historic Cappellificio Cervo hat-maker.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://wwd.com/business-news/mergers-acquisitions/ermenegildo-zegna-group-controlled-company-takes-over-italian-hattery-11120112/|title=Ermenegildo Zegna Group-Controlled Company Takes Over Italian Hattery|last=Salibian|first=Sandra|date=22 January 2018|website=Women's Wear Daily|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref>
Two years later, Zegna – through its subsidiary ZECA company – took over the historic Cappellificio Cervo hat-maker.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://wwd.com/business-news/mergers-acquisitions/ermenegildo-zegna-group-controlled-company-takes-over-italian-hattery-11120112/|title=Ermenegildo Zegna Group-Controlled Company Takes Over Italian Hattery|last=Salibian|first=Sandra|date=22 January 2018|website=Women's Wear Daily|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref>


In 2018, Ermenegildo Zegna Group – already present in India with three stores – together with Reliance, acquired a stake into Indian fashion designer [[Raghavendra Rathore]]'s firm.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/business/india-business/desi-luxury-label-gets-global-brand-push/articleshow/64755781.cms|title=Zegna, Reliance invest in fashion designer Raghavendra Rathore|website=The Times of India|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref> In the same year Zegna announced that they purchased 85% of the eponymously named [[Thom Browne]], a New York City-based menswear and womenswear brand, founded in 2001.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.reuters.com/article/thom-browne-ma-zegna-idUSL8N1VJ57G|title=Italian tailor Ermenegildo Zegna acquires Thom Browne|date=28 August 2018|work=Reuters|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref>
In 2018, Zegna – already present in India with three stores – together with Reliance, acquired a stake into Indian fashion designer [[Raghavendra Rathore]]'s firm.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/business/india-business/desi-luxury-label-gets-global-brand-push/articleshow/64755781.cms|title=Zegna, Reliance invest in fashion designer Raghavendra Rathore|website=The Times of India|date=29 June 2018 |access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref> In the same year Zegna announced that they purchased 85% of the eponymously named [[Thom Browne]], a New York City-based menswear and womenswear brand, founded in 2001.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.reuters.com/article/thom-browne-ma-zegna-idUSL8N1VJ57G|title=Italian tailor Ermenegildo Zegna acquires Thom Browne|date=28 August 2018|work=Reuters|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref>


In 2019, Zegna bought a 65% stake of Italian jersey fabrics manufacturer Dondi, increasing its control over the textile supply chain.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://wwd.com/business-news/mergers-acquisitions/ermenegildo-zegna-group-buys-majority-stake-in-italian-textile-firm-1203216333/|title=Ermenegildo Zegna Group Buys Majority Stake in Italian Textile Firm}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://us.fashionnetwork.com/news/Ermenegildo-Zegna-buys-majority-stake-in-high-end-Italian-knitwear-producer-Dondi,1117795.html|title=Ermenegildo Zegna buys majority stake in high-end Italian knitwear producer Dondi|last=Muret|first=FashionNetwork com, Dominique|website=FashionNetwork.com|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref>
In 2019, Zegna bought a 65% stake of Italian jersey fabrics manufacturer Dondi, increasing its control over the textile [[supply chain]].<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://wwd.com/business-news/mergers-acquisitions/ermenegildo-zegna-group-buys-majority-stake-in-italian-textile-firm-1203216333/|title=Ermenegildo Zegna Group Buys Majority Stake in Italian Textile Firm|date=8 July 2019 }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://us.fashionnetwork.com/news/Ermenegildo-Zegna-buys-majority-stake-in-high-end-Italian-knitwear-producer-Dondi,1117795.html|title=Ermenegildo Zegna buys majority stake in high-end Italian knitwear producer Dondi|last=Muret|first=Dominique|website=FashionNetwork.com|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref>


In June 2021, the Zegna Group bought a 60% majority stake in Tessitura Ubertino, a high-end fabric maker based in Piedmont, Italy.<ref name="uk.fashionnetwork.com">{{Cite web |last=UK |first=FashionNetwork com |title=Zegna buys control of top-shelf fabric maker Tessitura Ubertino |url=https://uk.fashionnetwork.com/news/Zegna-buys-control-of-top-shelf-fabric-maker-tessitura-ubertino,1307627.html |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=FashionNetwork.com |language=en-UK}}</ref> A few weeks later, Zegna also bought a 40% share in Tessitura Biagioli Modesto, an Italian spinning mill specialized in cashmere production.<ref>{{Cite web |last=US |first=FashionNetwork com |title=Prada, Zegna buy majority stake in Filati Biagioli Modesto |url=https://us.fashionnetwork.com/news/Prada-zegna-buy-majority-stake-in-filati-biagioli-modesto,1313319.html |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=FashionNetwork.com |language=en-US}}</ref>
In June 2021, the Zegna Group bought a 60% majority stake in Tessitura Ubertino, a high-end fabric maker based in [[Piedmont]].<ref name="uk.fashionnetwork.com">{{Cite web |last=UK |first=FashionNetwork com |title=Zegna buys control of top-shelf fabric maker Tessitura Ubertino |url=https://uk.fashionnetwork.com/news/Zegna-buys-control-of-top-shelf-fabric-maker-tessitura-ubertino,1307627.html |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=FashionNetwork.com |language=en-UK}}</ref> A few weeks later, Zegna also bought a 40% share in Tessitura Biagioli Modesto, an Italian spinning mill specialized in cashmere production.<ref>{{Cite web |last=US |first=FashionNetwork com |title=Prada, Zegna buy majority stake in Filati Biagioli Modesto |url=https://us.fashionnetwork.com/news/Prada-zegna-buy-majority-stake-in-filati-biagioli-modesto,1313319.html |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=FashionNetwork.com |language=en-US}}</ref>

In 2023, the Prada Group and the Ermenegildo Zegna Group announced an agreement to acquire a minority stake in Luigi Fedeli e Figlio S.r.l., an Italian family-owned company founded in 1934 in Monza, now in its third generation, recognized worldwide as an excellence in Made in Italy knitwear in fine yarns.<ref name=":9">{{Cite web |date=2023-07-14 |title=Prada, Zegna acquire minority stake in knitwear firm Fedeli {{!}} Reuters |website=[[Reuters]] |url=https://www.reuters.com/business/retail-consumer/prada-zegna-acquire-minority-stake-knitwear-firm-fedeli-2023-06-06/ |access-date=2024-08-12 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230714232459/https://www.reuters.com/business/retail-consumer/prada-zegna-acquire-minority-stake-knitwear-firm-fedeli-2023-06-06/ |archive-date=14 July 2023 }}</ref>


==== Stock exchange listing ====
==== Stock exchange listing ====
In 2021, Zegna agreed to go public by combining with a US [[special-purpose acquisition company]] launched by European private equity group [[Investindustrial]].<ref>{{Cite news |last1=Massoudi |first1=Arash |last2=Indvik |first2=Lauren |last3=Fontanella-Khan |first3=James |date=2021-07-19 |title=Italian luxury group Zegna to go public in $3.2bn US Spac deal |work=Financial Times |url=https://www.ft.com/content/c729cad3-b28a-41eb-890c-0b3a9112c4af |access-date=2022-05-03}}</ref>
In 2021, Zegna agreed to go public by combining with a US [[special-purpose acquisition company]] launched by European private equity group [[Investindustrial]].<ref>{{Cite news |last1=Massoudi |first1=Arash |last2=Indvik |first2=Lauren |last3=Fontanella-Khan |first3=James |date=2021-07-19 |title=Italian luxury group Zegna to go public in $3.2bn US Spac deal |work=Financial Times |url=https://www.ft.com/content/c729cad3-b28a-41eb-890c-0b3a9112c4af |access-date=2022-05-03}}</ref>


On December 20, 2021, the Zegna Group went public in New York with a valuation of $3.1 billion.<ref name="Snelling"/> It is the first Italian fashion company to be listed in New York.<ref>{{Cite news |last1=Armstrong |first1=Robert |last2=Indvik |first2=Lauren |date=2021-12-20 |title=Italy's Zegna fashions New York listing in $3bn Spac deal |work=Financial Times |url=https://www.ft.com/content/b7f2299f-3bf9-44ce-8ceb-5ca04a196638 |access-date=2022-05-03}}</ref>
On December 20, 2021, the Zegna Group went public in New York with a valuation of $3.1 billion and a market capitalization of $2.4 billion .<ref name="Snelling"/> It is the first Italian fashion company to be listed in New York.<ref>{{Cite news |last1=Armstrong |first1=Robert |last2=Indvik |first2=Lauren |date=2021-12-20 |title=Italy's Zegna fashions New York listing in $3bn Spac deal |work=Financial Times |url=https://www.ft.com/content/b7f2299f-3bf9-44ce-8ceb-5ca04a196638 |access-date=2022-05-03}}</ref>

The Zegna family retains control of the company with more than 60% of the capital, held directly by Ermenegildo Zegna and the family company, Monterubello SS. Since 2022, the company’s legal headquarters have been in the Netherlands, while its operational headquarters remain in Italy.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Ermenegildo Zegna N.V.: Shareholders Board Members Managers and Company Profile {{!}} NL0015000PB5 {{!}} MarketScreener |url=https://www.marketscreener.com/quote/stock/ERMENEGILDO-ZEGNA-N-V-130945896/company/ |access-date=2024-08-12 |website=www.marketscreener.com |language=en}}</ref>


== Brands ==
== Brands ==
[[File:Zegna logo.svg|thumb|Logo since 2021]]
[[File:Zegna logo.svg|thumb|Logo since 2021]]The Ermenegildo Zegna Group operates in the market through three complementary brands: ZEGNA, Thom Browne, and TOM FORD FASHION.


=== Zegna ===
=== ZEGNA ===
Zegna was founded in 1910 as a textile company (“Lanificio Zegna”).<ref>{{Cite news |last=Anzolin |first=Elisa |date=2021-12-21 |title=Italian luxury group Zegna climbs on Wall Street debut |language=en |work=Reuters |url=https://www.reuters.com/markets/europe/italian-luxury-group-zegna-debut-wall-street-3-bln-deal-2021-12-20/ |access-date=2022-05-03}}</ref> Formerly known as ''Ermenegildo Zegna'', in 2021, in parallel with the Group's stock market listing, the brand name became simply ''Zegna''. A new logo was also adopted, which recalls a road. This refers to the founder, who in the 1930s promoted the construction of a road in Piedmont, which today runs through the [[Oasi Zegna]].<ref>{{Cite web |date=2021-12-01 |title=Ermenegildo Zegna Rebrands Itself For A New Beginning |url=https://www.luxuo.com/business/business-luxury/ermenegildo-zegna-rebrands-itself-for-a-new-beginning.html |access-date=2022-08-29 |website=LUXUO |language=en-US}}</ref>
ZEGNA was founded in 1910 as a textile company (“Lanificio Zegna”).<ref>{{Cite news |last=Anzolin |first=Elisa |date=2021-12-21 |title=Italian luxury group Zegna climbs on Wall Street debut |language=en |work=Reuters |url=https://www.reuters.com/markets/europe/italian-luxury-group-zegna-debut-wall-street-3-bln-deal-2021-12-20/ |access-date=2022-05-03}}</ref> Formerly known as ''Ermenegildo Zegna'', in 2021, in parallel with the Group's stock market listing, the brand name became simply ''ZEGNA''. A new logo was also adopted, referencing the road from which it all began, in homage to the founder’s vision and commitment, who in the 1930s promoted the construction of the provincial road 232 Panoramica Zegna, crossing the company’s original territories.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2021-12-01 |title=Ermenegildo Zegna Rebrands Itself For A New Beginning |url=https://www.luxuo.com/business/business-luxury/ermenegildo-zegna-rebrands-itself-for-a-new-beginning.html |access-date=2022-08-29 |website=LUXUO |language=en-US}}</ref>


In 2003 Zegna entered the fragrance market.<ref>{{Cite web |title=A Legacy of Thread The Unrivaled Ermenegildo Zegna |url=https://www.grailed.com/drycleanonly/ermenegildo-zegna-master-class |access-date=2022-08-29 |website=Grailed |language=en}}</ref> Over the years, it has also signed partnerships with other major brands such as Estee Lauder, Maserati, Marcolin.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Subeditor |date=2011-04-01 |title=Ermenegildo Zegna and Estée Lauder Companies sign the Exclusive Worldwide License Fragrances agreement |url=https://www.epcnews.eu/2011/04/01/ermenegildo-zegna-and-estee-lauder-companies-sign-the-exclusive-worldwide-license-fragrances-agreement/ |access-date=2022-08-29 |website=EPCnews - European Perfumery and Cosmetics NEWS |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=2014-09-12 |title=Zegna and Maserati Team Up to Make the Best Dressed Car Money Can Buy |url=https://www.gq.com/story/zegna-and-maserati |access-date=2022-08-29 |website=GQ |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news |date=2014-02-13 |title=Marcolin signs eyewear licence agreement with Zegna |language=en |work=Reuters |url=https://www.reuters.com/article/marcolin-zegna-idUSL5N0LI2FS20140213 |access-date=2022-08-29}}</ref>
In 2003 Zegna entered the fragrance market.<ref>{{Cite web |title=A Legacy of Thread The Unrivaled Ermenegildo Zegna |url=https://www.grailed.com/drycleanonly/ermenegildo-zegna-master-class |access-date=2022-08-29 |website=Grailed |language=en}}</ref> Over the years, it has also signed partnerships with other major brands such as [[Maserati]],<ref>{{Cite web |last=Subeditor |date=2011-04-01 |title=Ermenegildo Zegna and Estée Lauder Companies sign the Exclusive Worldwide License Fragrances agreement |url=https://www.epcnews.eu/2011/04/01/ermenegildo-zegna-and-estee-lauder-companies-sign-the-exclusive-worldwide-license-fragrances-agreement/ |access-date=2022-08-29 |website=EPCnews - European Perfumery and Cosmetics NEWS |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=2014-09-12 |title=Zegna and Maserati Team Up to Make the Best Dressed Car Money Can Buy |url=https://www.gq.com/story/zegna-and-maserati |access-date=2022-08-29 |website=GQ |language=en-US}}</ref> [[Marcolin]] and [[Real Madrid CF|Real Madrid]].<ref>Cynthia Martens (13 February 2014), [https://wwd.com/feature/zegna-signs-marcolin-license-7449500-63774/ Zegna Signs Marcolin License] ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]''</ref><ref>{{Cite news |date=2014-02-13 |title=Marcolin signs eyewear licence agreement with Zegna |language=en |work=Reuters |url=https://www.reuters.com/article/marcolin-zegna-idUSL5N0LI2FS20140213 |access-date=2022-08-29}}</ref>


Since June 2016, the artistic director of Zegna has been [[Alessandro Sartori]], who is entrusted with the creative functions of all Zegna brands and lines.<ref>{{Cite web |last=staff |first=T. H. R. |date=2016-02-05 |title=Alessandro Sartori Named Ermenegildo Zegna Artistic Director |url=https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/general-news/alessandro-sartori-named-ermenegildo-zegna-862538/ |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=The Hollywood Reporter |language=en-US}}</ref>
Since June 2016, the artistic director of ZEGNA has been [[Alessandro Sartori]], who is entrusted with the creative functions of all ZEGNA brands.<ref>{{Cite web |author=T. H. R. Staff |date=2016-02-05 |title=Alessandro Sartori Named Ermenegildo Zegna Artistic Director |url=https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/general-news/alessandro-sartori-named-ermenegildo-zegna-862538/ |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=The Hollywood Reporter |language=en-US}}</ref>


In 2021, Zegna branded products accounted for 66% of Group revenues.<ref name=":5">{{Cite web |title=Zegna Group Announces 2021 Fiscal Year Preliminary Revenues |url=https://ir.zegnagroup.com/news/news-details/2022/Zegna-Group-Announces-2021-Fiscal-Year-Preliminary-Revenues/default.aspx |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=ir.zegnagroup.com |language=en-US}}</ref>
In 2021, Zegna branded products accounted for 66% of Group revenues.<ref name=":5">{{Cite web |title=Zegna Group Announces 2021 Fiscal Year Preliminary Revenues |url=https://ir.zegnagroup.com/news/news-details/2022/Zegna-Group-Announces-2021-Fiscal-Year-Preliminary-Revenues/default.aspx |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=ir.zegnagroup.com |language=en-US}}</ref>


=== Thom Browne ===
=== Thom Browne ===
Thom Browne is a New York City-based luxury fashion brand, founded by American designer [[Thom Browne]].<ref>{{Cite web |title=Thom Browne is part of the BoF 500 |url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/thom-browne |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=The Business of Fashion |language=en-GB}}</ref> Ermenegildo Zegna Group acquired an 85% stake in Thom Browne in August 2018, at a $500 million valuation.<ref>{{Cite news |date=2018-08-28 |title=Italian tailor Ermenegildo Zegna acquires Thom Browne |language=en |work=Reuters |url=https://www.reuters.com/article/thom-browne-ma-zegna-idUSL8N1VJ57G |access-date=2022-05-03}}</ref>
Thom Browne is a New York City-based luxury fashion brand, founded by American designer [[Thom Browne]] in 2001.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Thom Browne is part of the BoF 500 |url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/thom-browne |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=The Business of Fashion |language=en-GB}}</ref> Ermenegildo Zegna Group acquired an 85% stake in Thom Browne in August 2018, at a $500 million valuation.<ref>{{Cite news |date=2018-08-28 |title=Italian tailor Ermenegildo Zegna acquires Thom Browne |language=en |work=Reuters |url=https://www.reuters.com/article/thom-browne-ma-zegna-idUSL8N1VJ57G |access-date=2022-05-03}}</ref> The founder retained the role of Chief Creative Officer of the company.


The brand is offered in some 300 stores in 40 countries; in 2021, it accounted for 20% of Group revenues.<ref name=":5" />
The brand is offered in some 300 stores in 40 countries; in 2021, it accounted for 20% of Group revenues.<ref name=":5" />


=== Lanificio Zegna ===
=== TOM FORD FASHION ===
As of April 29, 2023, following completion of the acquisition of [[Tom Ford (brand)|Tom Ford International]], Ermenegildo Zegna Group acquired from [[The Estée Lauder Companies|Estée Lauder]] the license for the Tom Ford brands for men’s and women’s lines, accessories, lingerie, fine jewelry, children’s clothing, home textiles, and design products. The contract has a twenty-year term and includes an automatic renewal for an additional decade.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2022-11-15 |title=Ermenegildo Zegna Group to Enter a Long-Term License for Tom Ford Fashion With the Estée Lauder Companies {{!}} Business Wire |url=https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20221115006446/en/Ermenegildo-Zegna-Group-to-Enter-a-Long-Term-License-for-Tom-Ford-Fashion-With-the-Est%C3%A9e-Lauder-Companies |access-date=2024-08-12 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221115215824/https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20221115006446/en/Ermenegildo-Zegna-Group-to-Enter-a-Long-Term-License-for-Tom-Ford-Fashion-With-the-Est%C3%A9e-Lauder-Companies |archive-date=15 November 2022 }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Tognini |first=Giacomo |title=Tom Ford's $2.8 Billion Deal To Sell His Fashion Brand To Estée Lauder Makes Him A Billionaire |url=https://www.forbes.com/sites/giacomotognini/2022/11/15/tom-fords-28-billion-deal-to-sell-his-fashion-brand-to-estee-lauder-makes-him-a-billionaire/ |access-date=2024-08-12 |website=Forbes |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=48. ZEGNA GROUP SOTTOSCRIVE ACCORDO DI LICENZA A LUNGO TERMINE PER TOM FORD FASHION |url=https://www.zegnagroup.com/it/news/48-zegna-group-to-enter-a-long-term-license-for-tom-ford-fashion/ |access-date=2024-08-12 |website=Zegna Group |language=it-IT}}</ref>
Lanificio Zegna (“Zegna Wool Mill”) is located in Trivero, in the Piedmont region of Northern Italy. It was founded by Ermenegildo Zegna in 1910, when he was 18. Under the Zegna Group supervision, shorn fleeces coming from several countries are processed at the Lanificio, from raw material to finishing.<ref>{{Cite news |last=Menkes |first=Suzy |date=2010-06-21 |title=Zegna at 100: From the Alps to the World |language=en-US |work=The New York Times |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2010/06/22/fashion/22iht-rzegna.html |access-date=2022-05-03 |issn=0362-4331}}</ref>


=== Tessitura di Novara ===
=== ''Filiera'' ===
The Ermenegildo Zegna Group controls the entire value chain of its products, from the purchase of raw materials through fabric production to the design and sale of finished products. The Group controls and participates in nine companies known as the ''Filiera'', comprising Italian textile manufacturers specializing in all areas of interest.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Balicco |first=Daniele |title=Stile italiano e mercato internazionale. Il caso Zegna |url=https://www.allegoriaonline.it/PDF/715.pdf |journal=Allegoria |volume=68 |issn=1122-1887}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Our Filiera {{!}} Ermenegildo Zegna Group |url=https://www.zegnagroup.com/it/our-filiera/ |access-date=2024-08-12 |website=Zegna Group |language=it-IT}}</ref>
Tessitura di Novara is a silk-weaving company acquired by Zegna in 2009.<ref>{{Cite book |last1=Lojacono |first1=Gabriella |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=zV08EAAAQBAJ&dq=zegna+group+tessitura+di+novara+2009&pg=PT45 |title=Resilience of Luxury Companies in Times of Change |last2=Ru Yun Pan |first2=Laura |publisher=De Gruyter |year=2021}}</ref>


=== Pettinatura di Verrone ===
==== Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna ====
Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna (“Ermenegildo Zegna Wool Mill”) is located in Trivero, in the Piedmont region of Northern Italy. It was founded by Ermenegildo Zegna in 1910, when he was 18. Under the Zegna Group supervision, shorn fleeces coming from several countries are processed at the Lanificio, combining artisanal activities and modern technologies, from raw material to finishing.<ref>{{Cite news |last=Menkes |first=Suzy |date=2010-06-21 |title=Zegna at 100: From the Alps to the World |language=en-US |work=The New York Times |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2010/06/22/fashion/22iht-rzegna.html |access-date=2022-05-03 |issn=0362-4331}}</ref>
Founded in 1960, Pettinatura di Verrone is a combing mill based in the textile district of Biella.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Pettinatura di Verrone SpA - Company Profile and News |url=https://www.bloomberg.com/profile/company/4279317Z:IM |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=Bloomberg.com |language=en}}</ref> In 2009, Zegna acquired a 15% stake of the company.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Turra |first=Alessandra |date=2012-09-11 |title=Industry Leaders Take Stake in Italian Mill |url=https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/industry-leaders-take-stake-in-italian-mill-6274020/ |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=WWD |language=en-US}}</ref>


=== Bonotto ===
==== Tessitura di Novara ====
Founded in 1932 by Luigi Baldi in Pernate, a fraction of the municipality of Novara, it is a silk-weaving company specialized in the production of cashmere, pure silk, and high-end natural fabrics. It was acquired by Zegna in 2009.<ref name=":7">{{Cite book |last1=Lojacono |first1=Gabriella |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=zV08EAAAQBAJ&dq=zegna+group+tessitura+di+novara+2009&pg=PT45 |title=Resilience of Luxury Companies in Times of Change |last2=Ru Yun Pan |first2=Laura |publisher=De Gruyter |year=2021|isbn=978-3-11-072354-0 }}</ref>
Originally founded in 1912 as a straw hats maker,<ref name=":6">{{Cite web |title=Bonotto - Weavers and fabric decorators |url=https://www.well-made.it/en/artisan/bonotto-weavers-and-fabric-decorators-molvena-vicenza/ |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=WellMade |language=en-US}}</ref> Bonotto was converted in a textile manufacturer by Nicla Donazzan and Luigi Bonotto in 1972.<ref>{{Cite book |last=D'Amato |first=Vittorio |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=xhPcCgAAQBAJ |title=Management Innovation Roadmap |publisher=Egea |year=2015 |pages=35}}</ref> In 2016, Zegna Group acquired a controlling stake in the company.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Zargani |first=Luisa |date=2016-10-03 |title=Ermenegildo Zegna Group Buys Majority Stake in Bonotto |url=https://wwd.com/business-news/mergers-acquisitions/ermenegildo-zegna-buys-bonotto-10610917/ |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=WWD |language=en-US}}</ref> Bonotto is known for following a “slow factory” model, aiming at craftsmanship and rejecting standardization and low cost chain production.<ref name=":6" />


=== Dondi ===
==== Pettinatura di Verrone ====
Based in the Carpi textile hub, near [[Modena]], Dondi was founded in the 1970s as Dondi Jersey and is a renowned manufacturer of high-end knitwear for men and women.<ref>{{Cite web |last=WW |first=FashionNetwork com |title=Ermenegildo Zegna buys majority stake in high-end Italian knitwear producer Dondi |url=https://ww.fashionnetwork.com/news/Ermenegildo-zegna-buys-majority-stake-in-high-end-italian-knitwear-producer-dondi,1117764.html |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=FashionNetwork.com |language=en-WW}}</ref> In July 2019, the Zegna group acquired a 65% stake in Dondi, while the remaining 35% is retained by the Dondi Capelli family who still runs the business.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Fraser |first=Kristopher |date=2019-07-08 |title=Ermenegildo Zegna buys majority stake in Dondi |url=https://fashionunited.uk/news/business/ermenegildo-zegna-buys-majority-stake-in-dondi/2019070844137 |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=FashionUnited |language=en}}</ref>
Founded in 1960, Pettinatura di Verrone is a combing mill based in the textile district of Biella and specialized in combing superfine wools, cashmere, and vicuña .<ref>{{Cite web |title=Pettinatura di Verrone SpA - Company Profile and News |url=https://www.bloomberg.com/profile/company/4279317Z:IM |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=Bloomberg.com |language=en}}</ref> In 2009, Zegna, [[Loro Piana]] and [[Marzotto]] acquired a 15% stake each of the company.<ref name=":8">{{Cite web |last=Turra |first=Alessandra |date=2012-09-11 |title=Industry Leaders Take Stake in Italian Mill |url=https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/industry-leaders-take-stake-in-italian-mill-6274020/ |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=WWD |language=en-US}}</ref>


=== Tessitura Ubertino ===
==== Bonotto ====
Originally founded in 1912 as a straw hats maker,<ref name=":6">{{Cite web |title=Bonotto - Weavers and fabric decorators |url=https://www.well-made.it/en/artisan/bonotto-weavers-and-fabric-decorators-molvena-vicenza/ |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=WellMade |language=en-US}}</ref> Bonotto was converted in a textile manufacturer by Nicla Donazzan and Luigi Bonotto in 1972.<ref>{{Cite book |last=D'Amato |first=Vittorio |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=xhPcCgAAQBAJ |title=Management Innovation Roadmap |publisher=Egea |year=2015 |pages=35|isbn=978-88-238-1379-3 }}</ref> In 2016, Zegna Group acquired a controlling stake in the company.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Zargani |first=Luisa |date=2016-10-03 |title=Ermenegildo Zegna Group Buys Majority Stake in Bonotto |url=https://wwd.com/business-news/mergers-acquisitions/ermenegildo-zegna-buys-bonotto-10610917/ |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=WWD |language=en-US}}</ref> Bonotto is known for following a “slow factory” model, aiming at craftsmanship and rejecting standardization and low cost chain production.<ref name=":6" /> Bonotto is also famous for the rich archive of its Foundation, which houses over 24,000 works of art.
Tessitura Ubertino is a fabric maker specialized in high-end fabrics for womenswear, such as tweed and jacquard. It was founded in 1981 and is based near Biella. In June 2021, the Ermenegildo Zegna Group acquired a 60% stake in the company; the two sons of founder Adalgiso Ubertino have retained a 40% stake.<ref name="uk.fashionnetwork.com"/>


=== Filati Biagioli Modesto ===
==== Cappellificio Cervo ====
[[File:Cappellificio cervo sagliano.jpg|thumb|Cappellificio Cervo]]
In 2021 Zegna Group and Prada Group jointly acquired the majority shareholding in Filati Biagioli Modesto, a company specialized in cashmere and other noble yarns.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Prada Group and Ermenegildo Zegna Group acquire the majority shareholding in Filati Biagioli Modesto |url=https://www.luxuryandfinance.it/articoli/prada-group-and-ermenegildo-zegna-group-aacquire-the-majority-shareholding-in-filati-biagioli-modesto-2021-06-22-15-58 |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=www.luxuryandfinance.it |language=it}}</ref> Zegna CEO Gildo Zegna was appointed chairman.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Wightman-Stone |first=Danielle |date=2021-06-22 |title=Prada and Ermenegildo Zegna buy Filati Biagioli Modesto S.p.A. |url=https://fashionunited.uk/news/business/prada-and-ermenegildo-zegna-buy-filati-biagioli-modesto-s-p-a/2021062256140 |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=FashionUnited |language=en}}</ref>
Based in [[Sagliano Micca]] (Biella), Cappellificio Cervo is a historic hattery (founded in 1897) acquired by Zegna-controlled ZECA company in 2018,<ref>{{Cite web |last=Salibian |first=Sandra |date=2018-01-22 |title=Ermenegildo Zegna Group-Controlled Company Takes Over Italian Hattery |url=https://wwd.com/business-news/mergers-acquisitions/ermenegildo-zegna-group-controlled-company-takes-over-italian-hattery-11120112/ |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=WWD |language=en-US}}</ref> with the aim of relaunching it, in partnership with entrepreneur Vincenzo Caldesi and Artigiana Cappellai.


=== Cappellificio Cervo ===
==== Dondi ====
Based in the Carpi textile hub, near [[Modena]], Dondi was founded in the 1970s as Dondi Jersey and is a renowned manufacturer of high-end knitwear for men and women.<ref>{{Cite web |last=WW |first=FashionNetwork com |title=Ermenegildo Zegna buys majority stake in high-end Italian knitwear producer Dondi |url=https://ww.fashionnetwork.com/news/Ermenegildo-zegna-buys-majority-stake-in-high-end-italian-knitwear-producer-dondi,1117764.html |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=FashionNetwork.com |language=en-WW}}</ref> In July 2019, the Zegna group acquired a 65% stake in Dondi, while the remaining 35% is retained by the Dondi Capelli family who still runs the business, being responsible for the management and creative direction of the company. <ref>{{Cite web |last=Fraser |first=Kristopher |date=2019-07-08 |title=Ermenegildo Zegna buys majority stake in Dondi |url=https://fashionunited.uk/news/business/ermenegildo-zegna-buys-majority-stake-in-dondi/2019070844137 |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=FashionUnited |language=en}}</ref>
Based in Biella, Cappellificio Cervo is a historic hattery acquired by Zegna-controlled ZECA company in 2018.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Salibian |first=Sandra |date=2018-01-22 |title=Ermenegildo Zegna Group-Controlled Company Takes Over Italian Hattery |url=https://wwd.com/business-news/mergers-acquisitions/ermenegildo-zegna-group-controlled-company-takes-over-italian-hattery-11120112/ |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=WWD |language=en-US}}</ref>


=== Tom Ford ===
==== Tessitura Ubertino ====
Tessitura Ubertino is a fabric maker specialized in high-end fabrics for womenswear, such as tweed and jacquard. It was founded in 1981 by Adalgiso Ubertino and is based near Biella. In June 2021, the Ermenegildo Zegna Group acquired a 60% stake in the company; the two sons of founder Adalgiso Ubertino have retained a 40% stake as well as the management and creative direction .<ref name="uk.fashionnetwork.com" />
Beginning in late 2022, Zegna designs and produces mens and womens collections under the Tom Ford name following the brand's sale to Estee Lauder. As part of the sale, Tom Ford is signed to stay as creative director for at least a year.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2022-11-15 |title=Ermenegildo Zegna Group to Enter a Long-Term License for Tom Ford Fashion With the Estée Lauder Companies |url=https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20221115006446/en/Ermenegildo-Zegna-Group-to-Enter-a-Long-Term-License-for-Tom-Ford-Fashion-With-the-Est%C3%A9e-Lauder-Companies |access-date=2023-02-07 |website=www.businesswire.com |language=en}}</ref>

==== Filati Biagioli Modesto ====
Founded in 1919 as a spinning business by Modesto Biagioli's father, it became Filati Biagioli Modesto in 1967. The company is based in Montale (Pistoia) and is considered a world leader in the production of high-quality yarns. In 2021 Zegna Group and [[Prada|Prada Group]] jointly acquired the majority shareholding in Filati Biagioli Modesto, a company specialized in cashmere and other noble yarns.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Prada Group and Ermenegildo Zegna Group acquire the majority shareholding in Filati Biagioli Modesto |url=https://www.luxuryandfinance.it/articoli/prada-group-and-ermenegildo-zegna-group-aacquire-the-majority-shareholding-in-filati-biagioli-modesto-2021-06-22-15-58 |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=www.luxuryandfinance.it |language=it}}</ref> Zegna CEO [[Ermenegildo Zegna (businessman)|Gildo Zegna]] was appointed chairman.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Wightman-Stone |first=Danielle |date=2021-06-22 |title=Prada and Ermenegildo Zegna buy Filati Biagioli Modesto S.p.A. |url=https://fashionunited.uk/news/business/prada-and-ermenegildo-zegna-buy-filati-biagioli-modesto-s-p-a/2021062256140 |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=FashionUnited |language=en}}</ref>

==== Luigi Fedeli e Figlio ====
Founded in 1934 in [[Monza]], it specializes in the creation of high-quality knitwear. In a joint operation in 2023, Zegna and Prada each acquired a 15% stake in the company. According to the agreement, Gildo Zegna and Patrizio Bertelli joined the company's board of directors.<ref name=":9" />


== Financial data ==
== Financial data ==
Ermenegildo Zegna Group is the largest menswear brand in the world by revenue.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.ft.com/content/e1d649d2-900a-11e9-b7ea-60e35ef678d2|title=Recycling chic at Ermenegildo Zegna Couture and techy times at Emporio Armani – Milan men's SS20 kicks off}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.forbes.com/sites/michaelshiels/2016/12/13/the-secret-of-sales-according-to-ermenegildo-zegna-chairman/|title=The Secret of Sales According To Ermenegildo Zegna Chairman|last=Shiels|first=Michael Patrick|website=Forbes|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref> As of 2021, Ermenegildo Zegna operated over 500 retail stores across the world.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Ermenegildo Zegna Group - Investor Relations |url=https://ir.zegnagroup.com/overview/ |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=ir.zegnagroup.com}}</ref> Following the company's strongly export-oriented strategy, exports account for over 90% of total sales.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://uk.fashionnetwork.com/news/Ermenegildo-Zegna-s-net-income-up-4-to-34-million-for-2018,1092241.html|title=Ermenegildo Zegna's net income up 4% to €34&nbsp;million for 2018|last=FashionNetwork.com|website=FashionNetwork.com|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://fashionunited.uk/news/business/ermenegildo-zegna-s-profit-increases-in-2018/2019042442799|title=Ermenegildo Zegna's profit increases in 2018|last=Singh|first=Prachi|date=24 April 2019|website=fashionunited.uk|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref>
Ermenegildo Zegna Group is the largest men's luxury fashion brand in the world by revenue.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.ft.com/content/e1d649d2-900a-11e9-b7ea-60e35ef678d2|title=Recycling chic at Ermenegildo Zegna Couture and techy times at Emporio Armani – Milan men's SS20 kicks off|newspaper=Financial Times |date=16 June 2019 }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.forbes.com/sites/michaelshiels/2016/12/13/the-secret-of-sales-according-to-ermenegildo-zegna-chairman/|title=The Secret of Sales According To Ermenegildo Zegna Chairman|last=Shiels|first=Michael Patrick|website=Forbes|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref> As of 2021, Ermenegildo Zegna operated over 500 retail stores across the world.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Ermenegildo Zegna Group - Investor Relations |url=https://ir.zegnagroup.com/overview/ |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=ir.zegnagroup.com}}</ref> In 2023, it reported revenues of €1,904.5 million and a net profit of €135.7 million. Approximately 35% of sales were generated in the EMEA region, 41% in APAC, 22% in North America, and 2% in Latin America.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2024-04-06 |title=Ermenegildo Zegna Group Delivers Strong Performance in FY 2023 With Profit Doubling to €136 Million {{!}} Business Wire |url=https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20240405271564/en/Ermenegildo-Zegna-Group-Delivers-Strong-Performance-in-FY-2023-With-Profit-Doubling-to-%E2%82%AC136-Million |access-date=2024-08-12 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240406072751/https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20240405271564/en/Ermenegildo-Zegna-Group-Delivers-Strong-Performance-in-FY-2023-With-Profit-Doubling-to-%E2%82%AC136-Million |archive-date=6 April 2024 }}</ref>
{| class="wikitable"
|+Financial data in € million
!Years
!2018
!2019
!2020
!2021
|-
|Revenue
|1,159
|1,321
|1,014
|1,292
|-
|Net income
|34
|25.4
| -46.5
|75.3
|}


== Corporate governance ==
== Corporate governance ==
In 2021, the Group has become a public company. Consequently, Ermenegildo (Gildo) Zegna, grandson of founder Ermenegildo, took on the role of chairman in addition to CEO, while his cousin Paolo Zegna joined the board of directors.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Board of directors {{!}} Ermenegildo Zegna Group |url=https://www.zegnagroup.com/en/corporate-governance/board-of-directors/ |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=Zegna Group |language=en-US}}</ref>
In 2021, the Group has become a public company. Consequently, Ermenegildo (Gildo) Zegna, grandson of founder Ermenegildo, took on the role of chairman in addition to CEO, while his cousins Paolo and Anna Zegna joined the board of directors.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Board of directors {{!}} Ermenegildo Zegna Group |url=https://www.zegnagroup.com/en/corporate-governance/board-of-directors/ |access-date=2022-05-03 |website=Zegna Group |language=en-US}}</ref>



Zegna is the largest and finest quality fabric producer in the world.<ref>{{Cite web |title=ZEGNA |url=https://henrybucks.com.au/collections/zegna |access-date=2024-08-14 |website=Henry Bucks |language=en}}</ref>
== Advertising ==
A number of actors and models have advertised Zegna's lines through the years. Celebrities featured in Zegna's advertising campaigns include Oscar-winning actor [[Adrien Brody]],<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/getting-brody|title=GETTING BRODY|website=British Vogue|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref> American model Ryan Burns,<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.gq.com/story/my-morning-routine-male-model-ryan-burns|title=My Morning Routine: Male Model Ryan Burns|last=Dold|first=Kristen|date=14 October 2013|work=GQ}}</ref> Irish actor [[Jamie Dornan]],<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.out.com/fashion/truman-says/2013/11/13/model-jamie-dornan-ermenegildo-zegna-spring-14-stefano-pilati|title=Model Watch: Jamie Dornan For Ermenegildo Zegna Couture|date=14 November 2013|website=out.com|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref> English actor [[Sam Riley]].<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/sam-riley-models-ermenegildo-zegna-autumn-winter-2015-campaign|title=The Life Of Riley|last=Kilcooley-O'Halloran|first=Scarlett|date=30 May 2014|website=British Vogue|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref>


== Social commitment ==
In 2017, Ermenegildo Zegna launched a four-chapter campaign called ''Defining Moments''.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2017/02/10/fashion/ermenegildo-zegna-alessandro-sartori-robert-de-niro.html|title=A New Designer (and Robert De Niro) for a Re-energized Zegna|date=10 February 2017|work=The New York Times}}</ref> The campaign featured [[Robert De Niro]], [[McCaul Lombardi]], [[Benjamin Millepied]], [[Park Chan-wook]], [[Yoo Ji-tae]], Wang Deshun, [[Sunny Wang]], [[Javier Bardem]], [[Dev Patel]].<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.augustman.com/my/style/fashion/classing-up-selvedge-denim/|title=Classing up selvedge denim|date=1 August 2019|website=Augustman|access-date=12 September 2019}}</ref> The first three chapters were directed by [[Craig McDean]]; the last one was directed by [[Luca Guadagnino]].<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://wwd.com/business-news/media/ermenegildo-zegna-unveils-final-chapter-of-defining-moments-campaign-1203059029/|title=Ermenegildo Zegna Unveils Final Chapter of Defining Moments Campaign|last=Zargani|first=Luisa|date=28 February 2019|work=Women's Wear Daily}}</ref>
The Ermenegildo Zegna Group is particularly active in corporate social responsibility, which began in the 1930s when the founder distinguished himself for promoting a series of social welfare initiatives in favor of the [[Trivero]] community.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2019-06-26 |title=Ermenegildo Zegna ci ha insegnato che i veri imprenditori sono quelli che si spendono per il territorio |url=https://thevision.com/cultura/ermenegildo-zegna/ |access-date=2024-08-12 |website=THE VISION |language=it-IT}}</ref>


In 1993, the [[Oasi Zegna]] was established in the [[Biellese Alps]], a natural area of 100 square kilometers where over 500,000 conifers were planted in the late 1930s during the construction of the panoramic road.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Biella and Oasi Zegna 2-day itinerary |url=https://www.italia.it/en/piedmont/biella/things-to-do/itinerary-for-biella-and-oasi-zegna-of-2-days |access-date=2024-08-12 |website=Italia.it |language=en}}</ref>
In 2019 Zegna launched the new ''"What does it mean to be a man today?"'', campaign, featuring [[Mahershala Ali]] and [[Nicholas Tse]], focused on the definition of modern [[masculinity]].<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.esquireme.com/content/38681-zenga|title=Ermenegildo Zegna launches the 'What Makes A Man' Campaign|date=5 September 2019|website=Esquire Middle East|access-date=16 September 2019}}</ref>


== Archive ==
Zegna also produced a four-part series of short films titled ''A Rose Reborn'', directed by Park Chan-wook in 2014.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.esquire.com/style/mens-fashion/a30512/esq-a-rose-reborn-102314/|title=Ermenegildo Zegna Made a Fashion Film and It's Amazing|last=Luecke|first=Andrew D.|date=23 October 2014|work=Esquire}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.fashionbeans.com/2014/ermenegildo-zegna-a-rose-reborn/|title=Ermenegildo Zegna: A Rose Reborn|last=Burbano|first=Cristian|date=30 July 2014|work=Fashion Beams}}</ref>
Since 2007, the historical archive of the Group has been preserved at Casa Zegna in Trivero. It is a comprehensive archival center that houses documents, photographs, technical drawings, sample books, and objects generated over more than a hundred years of industrial activity.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Brigo |first=Adelia |date=2017-11-08 |title=Casa Zegna apre il suo archivio storico |url=https://www.varesenews.it/2017/11/casa-zegna-apre-suo-archivio-storico/667564/ |access-date=2024-08-12 |website=VareseNews |language=it}}</ref>


==References==
==References==
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== External links ==
== External links ==
{{Commons category}}
{{Commons category}}
* [http://content.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,1844947_1844957_1845397,00.html "A Zegna Meditation"], Sarah Raper Larenaudie, ''[[Time (magazine)|Time]]'', 29 September 2008
* [https://content.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,1844947_1844957_1845397,00.html "A Zegna Meditation"], Sarah Raper Larenaudie, ''[[Time (magazine)|Time]]'', 29 September 2008


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[[Category:Textile companies of Italy]]
[[Category:Textile companies of Italy]]
[[Category:Trivero]]
[[Category:Trivero]]
[[Category:Companies listed on the New York Stock Exchange]]
[[Category:Special-purpose acquisition companies]]

Latest revision as of 12:32, 17 November 2024

Ermenegildo Zegna N.V.
Ermenegildo Zegna Group
Company typePublic
NYSEZGN
IndustryFashion and textiles
Founded1910; 115 years ago (1910) in Trivero, Italy
FounderErmenegildo Zegna
Headquarters,
Italy 45°40′08″N 8°09′40″E / 45.6689°N 8.1610°E / 45.6689; 8.1610
Area served
Worldwide
Key people
  • Ermenegildo Zegna (CEO & chairman)
  • Rodrigo Bazan (CEO, Thom Browne)
  • Lelio Gavazza (CEO, TOM FORD FASHION)
  • Alessandro Sartori (Artistic Director, ZEGNA)
  • Thom Browne (Founder & CCO, Thom Browne)
RevenueIncrease €1,904 million (2023)[1]
Increase €208 million (2023)[1]
Increase €136 million (2023)[1]
Total assetsIncrease €2,767 million (2023)[1]
Total equityIncrease €901 million (2023)[1]
OwnerZegna family
Number of employees
7,201 (2023)[1]
Subsidiaries
  • ZEGNA
  • Thom Browne
  • TOM FORD FASHION
  • Filiera (Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna, Tessitura di Novara, Pettinatura di Verrone, Bonotto, Cappellificio Cervo, Dondi, Tessitura Ubertino, Filati Biagioli Modesto e Luigi Fedeli e Figlio)
Websitezegnagroup.com

Ermenegildo Zegna N.V., also known as Zegna Group (Italian pronunciation: [ˈdzeɲɲa]) or the Ermenegildo Zegna Group, is an Italian luxury fashion house headquartered in Milan. It was founded in 1910 by Ermenegildo Zegna in Trivero, Biella, in the Piedmont region of northern Italy.[2] It is led by the Zegna family and is one of the most renowned Italian men’s clothing businesses internationally. As of 2021, it is a public company that is listed on the New York Stock Exchange.[3]

History

[edit]

Foundation and early years

[edit]

The origins of the family business date back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when Michelangelo (Angelo) Zegna (1859–1923), a watchmaker from Trivero, Biella, decided to open a textile factory in the nearby town of Flecchia.[4] In 1910, three of Angelo’s ten children, including the youngest Ermenegildo (born in 1892), along with a fourth partner, Costanzo Giardino Vitri, founded Lanificio Zegna & Giardino Vitri in Trivero in the Biellese Alps.[5][6] With the early departure of Vitri and one of the brothers, Ermenegildo took the helm from the beginning, joined by his brother Mario until the early 1940s.[7]

Ermenegildo Zegna (1892–1966)

Growth

[edit]

Zegna's vision was to create high-quality fabrics, so he began to source wool directly from several countries around the world, such as Mongolia, Australia, South Africa;[6] he also bought modern machinery from England.[2]

During the Interwar period, Zegna's business started to flourish. In the late 1920s, the Lanificio (wool mill) employed more than 700 workers,[6] growing to more than 1,000 in the late 1930s.[8] In 1938 the company began to export fabrics in the US, through its subsidiary Zegna Woollens Corporation established in New York City.[6]

In 1942, Ermenegildo's sons Aldo (born in 1920) and Angelo (born in 1924) entered the company, which was renamed Ermenegildo Zegna and Sons.[8][9][10] In the mid-1950s, the company employed 1,400 workers.[8]

Second generation

[edit]

Ermenegildo Zegna's sons, Aldo and Angelo, took over the company in the mid-1960s.[6] Under their guidance, the label both expanded its business to ready-made suits and established new plants and distribution networks abroad. In 1968, the first factory producing sleeve-units and trousers was opened in Novara, followed by openings in Spain, Greece, and Switzerland.[6][8] Sales and marketing departments were also established in France, Germany, the U.K., and the U.S.[6]

In 1972, Zegna launched its made-to-measure service called Su Misura.[6]

Zegna's attention to wool quality continued through 1960s and 1970s, as the company established the Wool Awards in Australia (1963) and the Mohair Trophy in South Africa (1970).[11][12]

The international development strategy run by the Zegna brothers brought to the openings of the first owned boutique in Paris in 1980, followed by Milan in 1985.[8] In 1991 Zegna became the first luxury label to open a store in China.[13]

Third generation

[edit]

1990s to present

[edit]

During the 1990s, the third generation of the Zegna family entered the business. Angelo's son, and namesake of the company's founder, Ermenegildo "Gildo" Zegna, became CEO of the Group in 1997;[14] his cousin Paolo became the chairman.[5] Under their governance, the company began a strategy of brand extension and full verticalization.[8][9]

From 1990 to 2020, Zegna held the majority in women’s fashion brand Agnona brand; it was subsequently sold to the Aimone family, another branch of the Zegna family, with the Zegna group keeping 30 percent.[15]

In 1991 Zegna was the first luxury brand to enter the China market, with a flagship store in Beijing;[16] and one of the first to access the Indian market.[17]

In 2008, the Group established its new headquarters in Milan, in a building designed by architects Antonio Citterio and Gianmaria Beretta.

Acquisitions

[edit]

Starting from the late 1990s, the Group has undertaken a series of acquisitions of Italian and foreign companies that have expanded its business scope and now form the “Filiera”, a unique, company-owned and controlled entity, comprising selected Italian textile producers, integrated with the distinctive manufacturing capabilities of luxury, ensuring excellence, quality, and innovation.

In 2009, the Ermenegildo Zegna Group acquired a majority stake in Tessitura di Novara, a company specialized in high-quality silk weaving.[18]

In 2012, it acquired a minority stake in Pettinatura di Verrone, a company specializing in the combing of fine wools and natural fibers.[19]

In 2014, Zegna acquired the majority of Achill, an Australian wool farm counting about 12,500 sheep in its flock.[20]

In 2016, the Group acquired a majority stake in Bonotto, a high-end textile manufacturer based in Molvena, Vicenza, giving the Group the possibility to explore new areas such as furnishing and experimental fabrics.[21]

Two years later, Zegna – through its subsidiary ZECA company – took over the historic Cappellificio Cervo hat-maker.[22]

In 2018, Zegna – already present in India with three stores – together with Reliance, acquired a stake into Indian fashion designer Raghavendra Rathore's firm.[23] In the same year Zegna announced that they purchased 85% of the eponymously named Thom Browne, a New York City-based menswear and womenswear brand, founded in 2001.[24]

In 2019, Zegna bought a 65% stake of Italian jersey fabrics manufacturer Dondi, increasing its control over the textile supply chain.[25][26]

In June 2021, the Zegna Group bought a 60% majority stake in Tessitura Ubertino, a high-end fabric maker based in Piedmont.[27] A few weeks later, Zegna also bought a 40% share in Tessitura Biagioli Modesto, an Italian spinning mill specialized in cashmere production.[28]

In 2023, the Prada Group and the Ermenegildo Zegna Group announced an agreement to acquire a minority stake in Luigi Fedeli e Figlio S.r.l., an Italian family-owned company founded in 1934 in Monza, now in its third generation, recognized worldwide as an excellence in Made in Italy knitwear in fine yarns.[29]

Stock exchange listing

[edit]

In 2021, Zegna agreed to go public by combining with a US special-purpose acquisition company launched by European private equity group Investindustrial.[30]

On December 20, 2021, the Zegna Group went public in New York with a valuation of $3.1 billion and a market capitalization of $2.4 billion .[3] It is the first Italian fashion company to be listed in New York.[31]

The Zegna family retains control of the company with more than 60% of the capital, held directly by Ermenegildo Zegna and the family company, Monterubello SS. Since 2022, the company’s legal headquarters have been in the Netherlands, while its operational headquarters remain in Italy.[32]

Brands

[edit]
Logo since 2021

The Ermenegildo Zegna Group operates in the market through three complementary brands: ZEGNA, Thom Browne, and TOM FORD FASHION.

ZEGNA

[edit]

ZEGNA was founded in 1910 as a textile company (“Lanificio Zegna”).[33] Formerly known as Ermenegildo Zegna, in 2021, in parallel with the Group's stock market listing, the brand name became simply ZEGNA. A new logo was also adopted, referencing the road from which it all began, in homage to the founder’s vision and commitment, who in the 1930s promoted the construction of the provincial road 232 Panoramica Zegna, crossing the company’s original territories.[34]

In 2003 Zegna entered the fragrance market.[35] Over the years, it has also signed partnerships with other major brands such as Maserati,[36][37] Marcolin and Real Madrid.[38][39]

Since June 2016, the artistic director of ZEGNA has been Alessandro Sartori, who is entrusted with the creative functions of all ZEGNA brands.[40]

In 2021, Zegna branded products accounted for 66% of Group revenues.[41]

Thom Browne

[edit]

Thom Browne is a New York City-based luxury fashion brand, founded by American designer Thom Browne in 2001.[42] Ermenegildo Zegna Group acquired an 85% stake in Thom Browne in August 2018, at a $500 million valuation.[43] The founder retained the role of Chief Creative Officer of the company.

The brand is offered in some 300 stores in 40 countries; in 2021, it accounted for 20% of Group revenues.[41]

TOM FORD FASHION

[edit]

As of April 29, 2023, following completion of the acquisition of Tom Ford International, Ermenegildo Zegna Group acquired from Estée Lauder the license for the Tom Ford brands for men’s and women’s lines, accessories, lingerie, fine jewelry, children’s clothing, home textiles, and design products. The contract has a twenty-year term and includes an automatic renewal for an additional decade.[44][45][46]

Filiera

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The Ermenegildo Zegna Group controls the entire value chain of its products, from the purchase of raw materials through fabric production to the design and sale of finished products. The Group controls and participates in nine companies known as the Filiera, comprising Italian textile manufacturers specializing in all areas of interest.[47][48]

Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna

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Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna (“Ermenegildo Zegna Wool Mill”) is located in Trivero, in the Piedmont region of Northern Italy. It was founded by Ermenegildo Zegna in 1910, when he was 18. Under the Zegna Group supervision, shorn fleeces coming from several countries are processed at the Lanificio, combining artisanal activities and modern technologies, from raw material to finishing.[49]

Tessitura di Novara

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Founded in 1932 by Luigi Baldi in Pernate, a fraction of the municipality of Novara, it is a silk-weaving company specialized in the production of cashmere, pure silk, and high-end natural fabrics. It was acquired by Zegna in 2009.[18]

Pettinatura di Verrone

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Founded in 1960, Pettinatura di Verrone is a combing mill based in the textile district of Biella and specialized in combing superfine wools, cashmere, and vicuña .[50] In 2009, Zegna, Loro Piana and Marzotto acquired a 15% stake each of the company.[19]

Bonotto

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Originally founded in 1912 as a straw hats maker,[51] Bonotto was converted in a textile manufacturer by Nicla Donazzan and Luigi Bonotto in 1972.[52] In 2016, Zegna Group acquired a controlling stake in the company.[53] Bonotto is known for following a “slow factory” model, aiming at craftsmanship and rejecting standardization and low cost chain production.[51] Bonotto is also famous for the rich archive of its Foundation, which houses over 24,000 works of art.

Cappellificio Cervo

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Cappellificio Cervo

Based in Sagliano Micca (Biella), Cappellificio Cervo is a historic hattery (founded in 1897) acquired by Zegna-controlled ZECA company in 2018,[54] with the aim of relaunching it, in partnership with entrepreneur Vincenzo Caldesi and Artigiana Cappellai.

Dondi

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Based in the Carpi textile hub, near Modena, Dondi was founded in the 1970s as Dondi Jersey and is a renowned manufacturer of high-end knitwear for men and women.[55] In July 2019, the Zegna group acquired a 65% stake in Dondi, while the remaining 35% is retained by the Dondi Capelli family who still runs the business, being responsible for the management and creative direction of the company. [56]

Tessitura Ubertino

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Tessitura Ubertino is a fabric maker specialized in high-end fabrics for womenswear, such as tweed and jacquard. It was founded in 1981 by Adalgiso Ubertino and is based near Biella. In June 2021, the Ermenegildo Zegna Group acquired a 60% stake in the company; the two sons of founder Adalgiso Ubertino have retained a 40% stake as well as the management and creative direction .[27]

Filati Biagioli Modesto

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Founded in 1919 as a spinning business by Modesto Biagioli's father, it became Filati Biagioli Modesto in 1967. The company is based in Montale (Pistoia) and is considered a world leader in the production of high-quality yarns. In 2021 Zegna Group and Prada Group jointly acquired the majority shareholding in Filati Biagioli Modesto, a company specialized in cashmere and other noble yarns.[57] Zegna CEO Gildo Zegna was appointed chairman.[58]

Luigi Fedeli e Figlio

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Founded in 1934 in Monza, it specializes in the creation of high-quality knitwear. In a joint operation in 2023, Zegna and Prada each acquired a 15% stake in the company. According to the agreement, Gildo Zegna and Patrizio Bertelli joined the company's board of directors.[29]

Financial data

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Ermenegildo Zegna Group is the largest men's luxury fashion brand in the world by revenue.[59][60] As of 2021, Ermenegildo Zegna operated over 500 retail stores across the world.[61] In 2023, it reported revenues of €1,904.5 million and a net profit of €135.7 million. Approximately 35% of sales were generated in the EMEA region, 41% in APAC, 22% in North America, and 2% in Latin America.[62]

Corporate governance

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In 2021, the Group has become a public company. Consequently, Ermenegildo (Gildo) Zegna, grandson of founder Ermenegildo, took on the role of chairman in addition to CEO, while his cousins Paolo and Anna Zegna joined the board of directors.[63]


Zegna is the largest and finest quality fabric producer in the world.[64]

Social commitment

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The Ermenegildo Zegna Group is particularly active in corporate social responsibility, which began in the 1930s when the founder distinguished himself for promoting a series of social welfare initiatives in favor of the Trivero community.[65]

In 1993, the Oasi Zegna was established in the Biellese Alps, a natural area of 100 square kilometers where over 500,000 conifers were planted in the late 1930s during the construction of the panoramic road.[66]

Archive

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Since 2007, the historical archive of the Group has been preserved at Casa Zegna in Trivero. It is a comprehensive archival center that houses documents, photographs, technical drawings, sample books, and objects generated over more than a hundred years of industrial activity.[67]

References

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