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{{use MDY dates|date=March 2020}}
{{use mdy dates|date=March 2020}}
A '''Cloak maker''' worked in the garment industry,<ref name=MillerBook>{{cite book
A '''[[Cloak]] maker''' worked in the garment industry,{{Sfn|Miller|1978|p=190}} often in an enterprise whose workers were represented by a union.<ref name=Union.NYT21/>
|author=Sally M. Miller |date=December 1978
|title=From Sweatshop Worker to Labor Leader: Theresa Malkiel, A Case Study
|page=190}}</ref> often in an enterprise whose workers were represented by a union.<ref name=Union.NYT21/>


In the 1920s, there were more than 50,000 people employed as ''cloakmakers''.<ref name=Union.NYT21>{{cite newspaper
In the 1920s, there were more than 50,000 people employed as ''cloakmakers''.<ref name=Union.NYT21>{{cite news
|newspaper=[[The New York Times]]
|newspaper=[[The New York Times]]
|url=https://www.nytimes.com/1921/04/27/archives/cloak-makers-accept-plan-for-conference-representatives-of-50000.html
|url=https://www.nytimes.com/1921/04/27/archives/cloak-makers-accept-plan-for-conference-representatives-of-50000.html
|title=Cloak Makers Accept Plan for Conference
|title=Cloak Makers Accept Plan for Conference
|date=April 27, 1921 |accessdate=March 17, 2020}}</ref>
|date=April 27, 1921 |access-date=March 17, 2020}}</ref>
[[File:Cloak Makers Parade, 1916 LCCN2014702121.jpg|Cloakmakers' parade, NYC, 1916|thumb|right|200px]]

Much of this industry was centered in NYC.<ref>60,000 to 70,000 cloakmakers in New York City in 1910
Much of this industry was centered in NYC.<ref>60,000 to 70,000 cloakmakers in New York City in 1910
{{cite book
{{cite book
|title=Introduction: Louis Marshall, Champion of Liberty
|title=Introduction: Louis Marshall, Champion of Liberty
|author1=Oscar Handlin |author2=Charles Reznikoff
|author1=Oscar Handlin |author2=Charles Reznikoff
|page=xxi}}</ref> While most of the cloakmakers were Jewish women,<ref name=MillerBook/>{{rp|p.191}}<ref>{{cite book
|page=xxi}}</ref> While most of the cloakmakers were Jewish women,{{Sfn|Miller|1978}}{{rp|p.191}}<ref>{{cite book
|title=Cultures of Opposition: Jewish Immigrant Workers, New York
|title=Cultures of Opposition: Jewish Immigrant Workers, New York
|page=202
|page=202
|author=Hadassa Kosak |year=2000
|author=Hadassa Kosak |year=2000
|quote=The preponderance of Jews among cloakmakers ... 1885}}</ref> the next largest group, although much smaller in number, were Italian women.<ref>{{cite web
|quote=The preponderance of Jews among cloakmakers ... 1885}}</ref><ref>contrast two strikes: 20,000 "mostly female" vs. a different strike in the same 1909/1910/1911 period: 1,200 men in one strike and 2,000 men in another. {{cite web
|url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/41426589
|url=https://ilgwu.ilr.cornell.edu/history/earlyStruggles.html
|title=History of the ILGWU: Early Struggles}}</ref> the next largest group, although much smaller in number, were Italian women.<ref>{{cite journal
|title=Italian-American Workers and the 1912 Strike
|title=Crossing Borders on the Picket Line: Italian-American Workers and the 1912 Strike in Lawrence, Massachusetts
|author=S. Luconi |year=2010}}</ref><ref>{{cite book
|author=S. Luconi |journal=Italian Americana |volume=28 |issue=2 |pages=149–161 |date=Summer 2010 |jstor=41426589}}</ref><ref>{{cite book
|title=The Ladies' Garment Worker |year=1918 |page=25
|title=The Ladies' Garment Worker |year=1918 |page=25
|quote=It was understood that money collected from Italians ...}}</ref>
|quote=It was understood that money collected from Italians ...}}</ref><ref name="LGW-1918a">{{cite journal
|journal=The Ladies' Garment Worker |volume=9 |issue=1 |date=1918-01-01 |title=Among Italian and Other Ladies' Tailors |url=https://ecommons.cornell.edu/items/09d3c932-f637-4459-a03c-1468b39f8919 |first=Alfredo |last=La Porta |pages=22-23 |quote=among the ladies' tailors, of whom there are about 500, almost evenly divided in number between Italians and Jews.}}</ref>


Cloakmakers were a part of those known as clothing-workers, including those who made cloaks, suits and skirts.<ref name=Union.NYT21/><ref>{{cite newspaper |newspaper=[[The New York Times]]
Cloakmakers were a part of those known as clothing-workers, including those who made cloaks, suits and skirts.<ref name=Union.NYT21/><ref>{{cite news |newspaper=[[The New York Times]]
|url=http://www.nytimes.com/1883/07/22/archives/striking-dress-and-cloak-makers.html
|url=http://www.nytimes.com/1883/07/22/archives/striking-dress-and-cloak-makers.html
|title=Striking Dress and Cloak Makers
|title=Striking Dress and Cloak Makers
Line 33: Line 32:
Other areas where this industry was strong included Chicago<ref>{{cite web
Other areas where this industry was strong included Chicago<ref>{{cite web
|url=http://moses.law.umn.edu/darrow/documents/Clothing_Workers_of_Chicago_1910_1922.pdf
|url=http://moses.law.umn.edu/darrow/documents/Clothing_Workers_of_Chicago_1910_1922.pdf
|title=Clothing workers of Chicage, 1910-1922}}</ref> and Cincinnati.<ref>{{cite web
|title=Clothing workers of Chicago, 1910-1922}}</ref> and Cincinnati.<ref>{{cite web
|url=https://rmc.library.cornell.edu/EAD/htmldocs/KCL05619.html
|url=https://rmc.library.cornell.edu/EAD/htmldocs/KCL05619.html
|title=Amalgated Clothing Workers (1919-1925)}}</ref>
|title=Amalgamated Clothing Workers (1919-1925)}}</ref>


==Unions==
==Unions==
[[Suffragist]] [[Theresa Malkiel]] organized a union of cloakmakers in 1892.<ref name=MillerBook/>{{rp|p.191}} Other areas of the ''needle trade'' were not unionized [[Fannia Cohn#Emigration to America|until years later]], of whom in 1912 over 80% were Jewish.<ref> {{cite book|title=Encyclopaedia Judaica |author=Adam Dickter
[[Suffragist]] [[Theresa Malkiel]] organized a union of cloakmakers in 1892.{{Sfn|Miller|1978}}{{rp|p.191}} Other areas of the ''needle trade''<ref>'''not to be confused with''' ''this'' (usage): {{cite news |newspaper=[[The New York Times]]
|url=https://www.nytimes.com/1990/02/18/weekinreview/the-region-new-york-city-is-out-of-the-needle-trade.html
|title=New York City Is Out of the Needle Trade
|author=Todd S. Purdum |date=February 18, 1990}}</ref> were not unionized [[Fannia Cohn#Emigration to America|until years later]],<ref>only "half of all women working in the garment industry between 1909 and 1919 belonged to unions." {{cite book
|title=The Boundaries of Her Body: The Troubling History of Women's Rights
|author=Debran Rowland |year=2004}}</ref> of whom in 1912 over 80% were Jewish.<ref>{{cite book|title=Encyclopaedia Judaica |author=Adam Dickter
|url=https://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/judaica/ejud_0002_0015_0_14806.html
|url=https://www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/judaica/ejud_0002_0015_0_14806.html
|publisher=Keter Publishing House Ltd|location=Jerusalem Israel|date=1972}}</ref>
|publisher=Keter Publishing House Ltd|location=Jerusalem Israel|date=1972}}</ref>
Line 47: Line 51:


This occupation involved making or repairing garments that contained animal fur. The high end of this profession focused on [[fur coat]]s. A
This occupation involved making or repairing garments that contained animal fur. The high end of this profession focused on [[fur coat]]s. A
1915 ''New York Times'' article about 75,000 garment workers said "''Cloakmakers take the lead''."<ref>{{cite newspaper
1915 ''New York Times'' article about 75,000 garment workers said "''Cloakmakers take the lead''."<ref>{{cite news
|newspaper=[[The New York Times]]
|newspaper=[[The New York Times]]
|url=https://www.nytimes.com/1915/06/26/archives/garment-workers-prepare-demands-cloakmakers-take-the-lead-in-move.html
|url=https://www.nytimes.com/1915/06/26/archives/garment-workers-prepare-demands-cloakmakers-take-the-lead-in-move.html
Line 53: Line 57:
|date=June 26, 1915}}</ref>
|date=June 26, 1915}}</ref>


The garment industry's strikes were neither rare nor long-lasting.<ref>{{cite newspaper |newspaper=[[The New York Times]]
The garment industry's strikes were neither rare nor long-lasting.<ref>{{cite news |newspaper=[[The New York Times]]
|url=https://www.nytimes.com/1916/06/14/archives/urge-cloak-makers-to-return-to-work-manufacturers-warn-workers-that.html
|url=https://www.nytimes.com/1916/06/14/archives/urge-cloak-makers-to-return-to-work-manufacturers-warn-workers-that.html
|title=Persons to Fill Their Places Are to be Had ... Committee Appeals for Strike Funds.
|title=Persons to Fill Their Places Are to be Had ... Committee Appeals for Strike Funds.
|date=June 14, 1916}}</ref><ref>{{cite newspaper |newspaper=[[The New York Times]]
|date=June 14, 1916}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |newspaper=[[The New York Times]]
|url=https://www.nytimes.com/1910/07/30/archives/cloakmakers-spare-time.html
|url=https://www.nytimes.com/1910/07/30/archives/cloakmakers-spare-time.html
|title=Cloakmakers' Spare Time
|title=Cloakmakers' Spare Time
Line 63: Line 67:
==References==
==References==
{{reflist}}
{{reflist}}

== Sources ==
* {{cite journal |first=Sally M. |last=Miller |date=December 1978 |title=From Sweatshop Worker to Labor Leader: Theresa Malkiel, A Case Study |journal=American Jewish History |volume=68 |issue=2 |pages=189-205 |publisher=The Johns Hopkins University Press |jstor=23881894 }}


[[Category:Manufacturing]]
[[Category:Manufacturing]]
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[[Category:History of clothing (Western fashion)]]
[[Category:History of clothing (Western fashion)]]



{{job-stub}}


{{Industry-stub}}
{{Industry-stub}}

Latest revision as of 13:23, 18 November 2024

A Cloak maker worked in the garment industry,[1] often in an enterprise whose workers were represented by a union.[2]

In the 1920s, there were more than 50,000 people employed as cloakmakers.[2]

Cloakmakers' parade, NYC, 1916

Much of this industry was centered in NYC.[3] While most of the cloakmakers were Jewish women,[4]: p.191 [5][6] the next largest group, although much smaller in number, were Italian women.[7][8][9]

Cloakmakers were a part of those known as clothing-workers, including those who made cloaks, suits and skirts.[2][10]

Other areas where this industry was strong included Chicago[11] and Cincinnati.[12]

Unions

[edit]

Suffragist Theresa Malkiel organized a union of cloakmakers in 1892.[4]: p.191  Other areas of the needle trade[13] were not unionized until years later,[14] of whom in 1912 over 80% were Jewish.[15]

Cloakmaker, Suffragist, labor activist and author[16] Theresa Serber Malkiel, who organized the Infant Cloakmaker's Union of New York in 1892

This occupation involved making or repairing garments that contained animal fur. The high end of this profession focused on fur coats. A 1915 New York Times article about 75,000 garment workers said "Cloakmakers take the lead."[17]

The garment industry's strikes were neither rare nor long-lasting.[18][19]

References

[edit]
  1. ^ Miller 1978, p. 190.
  2. ^ a b c "Cloak Makers Accept Plan for Conference". The New York Times. April 27, 1921. Retrieved March 17, 2020.
  3. ^ 60,000 to 70,000 cloakmakers in New York City in 1910 Oscar Handlin; Charles Reznikoff. Introduction: Louis Marshall, Champion of Liberty. p. xxi.
  4. ^ a b Miller 1978.
  5. ^ Hadassa Kosak (2000). Cultures of Opposition: Jewish Immigrant Workers, New York. p. 202. The preponderance of Jews among cloakmakers ... 1885
  6. ^ contrast two strikes: 20,000 "mostly female" vs. a different strike in the same 1909/1910/1911 period: 1,200 men in one strike and 2,000 men in another. "History of the ILGWU: Early Struggles".
  7. ^ S. Luconi (Summer 2010). "Crossing Borders on the Picket Line: Italian-American Workers and the 1912 Strike in Lawrence, Massachusetts". Italian Americana. 28 (2): 149–161. JSTOR 41426589.
  8. ^ The Ladies' Garment Worker. 1918. p. 25. It was understood that money collected from Italians ...
  9. ^ La Porta, Alfredo (January 1, 1918). "Among Italian and Other Ladies' Tailors". The Ladies' Garment Worker. 9 (1): 22–23. among the ladies' tailors, of whom there are about 500, almost evenly divided in number between Italians and Jews.
  10. ^ "Striking Dress and Cloak Makers". The New York Times. July 22, 1883.
  11. ^ "Clothing workers of Chicago, 1910-1922" (PDF).
  12. ^ "Amalgamated Clothing Workers (1919-1925)".
  13. ^ not to be confused with this (usage): Todd S. Purdum (February 18, 1990). "New York City Is Out of the Needle Trade". The New York Times.
  14. ^ only "half of all women working in the garment industry between 1909 and 1919 belonged to unions." Debran Rowland (2004). The Boundaries of Her Body: The Troubling History of Women's Rights.
  15. ^ Adam Dickter (1972). Encyclopaedia Judaica. Jerusalem Israel: Keter Publishing House Ltd.
  16. ^ The Diary of a Shirtwaist Striker: A Story of the Shirtwaist Makers' Strike in New York. New York. The Co-operative Press. 1910.
  17. ^ "Garment Workers prepare demands, Cloakmakers Take the Lead in Move Expected to Cause a Strike of 75,000". The New York Times. June 26, 1915.
  18. ^ "Persons to Fill Their Places Are to be Had ... Committee Appeals for Strike Funds". The New York Times. June 14, 1916.
  19. ^ "Cloakmakers' Spare Time". The New York Times. July 30, 1910.

Sources

[edit]
  • Miller, Sally M. (December 1978). "From Sweatshop Worker to Labor Leader: Theresa Malkiel, A Case Study". American Jewish History. 68 (2). The Johns Hopkins University Press: 189–205. JSTOR 23881894.


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