John Sutcliffe (designer): Difference between revisions
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'''John Sutcliffe''' (died 1987) was a British [[Fetish fashion|fetish clothing]] designer and publisher of the [[fetish magazine]] ''[[AtomAge]]''.<ref>https://www.theguardian.com/theguardian/2010/sep/11/john-sutcliffe-fetish-wear</ref> |
'''John Sutcliffe''' (died 1987) was a British [[Fetish fashion|fetish clothing]] designer and publisher of the [[fetish magazine]] ''[[AtomAge]]''.<ref name="auto2">{{Cite news|url=https://www.theguardian.com/theguardian/2010/sep/11/john-sutcliffe-fetish-wear|title=King of kinky|first=Will|last=Hodgkinson|date=10 September 2010|newspaper=The Guardian}}</ref> |
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In the 1950s he was divorced because his feelings about leather had led to him being diagnosed as mentally ill and treatment failed to change him.<ref>https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/21774/1/john-sutcliffe-rubber-johnny</ref><ref name="guardian"/> |
In the 1950s he was divorced because his feelings about leather had led to him being diagnosed as mentally ill and treatment failed to change him.<ref name="auto1">{{Cite web|url=https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/21774/1/john-sutcliffe-rubber-johnny|title=John Sutcliffe: rubber Johnny|date=20 September 2014|website=Dazed}}</ref><ref name="guardian"/> |
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He began his AtomAge fetish clothing business in 1957, registering it as a “manufacturer of weatherproofs for lady [[pillion]] riders”.<ref>https://www.wmagazine.com/story/dressing-for-pleasure-book-john-sutcliffe</ref><ref |
He began his AtomAge fetish clothing business in 1957, registering it as a “manufacturer of weatherproofs for lady [[pillion]] riders”.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.wmagazine.com/story/dressing-for-pleasure-book-john-sutcliffe|title=Of Human Bondage|date=1 October 2010|website=W Magazine}}</ref><ref name="auto1"/> |
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He was an influence on the leather catsuits worn by [[Emma Peel]] in ''[[The Avengers|The Avengers]]'', and created the leather catsuit worn by [[Marianne Faithfull]] in the 1968 film ''[[The Girl on a Motorcycle]]''.<ref name="guardian">{{Cite web|url=https://www.theguardian.com/theguardian/2010/sep/11/john-sutcliffe-fetish-wear|title=King of kinky|website=[[TheGuardian.com]]|date=10 September 2010}}</ref> |
He was an influence on the leather [[catsuit|catsuits]] worn by [[Emma Peel]] in ''[[The Avengers (TV series)|The Avengers]]'', and created the leather catsuit worn by [[Marianne Faithfull]] in the 1968 film ''[[The Girl on a Motorcycle]]''.<ref name="guardian">{{Cite web|url=https://www.theguardian.com/theguardian/2010/sep/11/john-sutcliffe-fetish-wear|title=King of kinky|website=[[TheGuardian.com]]|date=10 September 2010}}</ref> |
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Sutcliffe published ''[[AtomAge]]'' magazine |
Sutcliffe published ''[[AtomAge]]'' magazine, a [[fetish magazine]] that was an offshoot of his fetish clothing business. The magazine has been called the "underground bible of leather, rubber and [[Polyvinyl chloride|vinyl]] fetish wear throughout the 1970s"<ref name="trunk">{{Cite book |last=Trunk |first=Jonny |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=7AjtRQAACAAJ |title=Dressing for Pleasure in Rubber, Vinyl & Leather: The Best of AtomAge, 1972-1980 |date=2010 |publisher=FUEL |isbn=978-0-9563562-3-9 |language=en}}</ref><ref name="kwaidan">{{Cite magazine |last=Phelps |first=Nicole |date=2021-03-03 |title=Kwaidan Editions Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection |url=https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2021-ready-to-wear/kwaidan-editions |magazine=Vogue |language=en-US |access-date=2021-12-07}}</ref> and documented Britain's [[sadomasochism|S/M]] scene.<ref name="quinn">{{Cite news |last=Moreland |first=Quinn |date=2017-12-15 |title=Fever Ray Explains How Ball Gags, Leather Fetishes, and Weird Memes Inspired Her New Album |language=en |url=https://pitchfork.com/features/interview/fever-ray-explains-how-ball-gags-leather-fetishes-and-weird-memes-inspired-her-new-album/ |access-date=2021-12-07}}</ref><ref name="woo">{{Cite news |last=Woo |first=Kin |date=2018-04-04 |title=The Husband-Wife Team Designing Clothes Inspired by David Lynch |language=en-US |work=The New York Times |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2018/04/04/t-magazine/fashion/kwaidan-editions-clothing.html |access-date=2021-12-07 |issn=0362-4331}}</ref> The first AtomAge clothing catalogue was published in 1965 and it expanded into a magazine in 1972.<ref name="bbc">{{Cite news |last=George |first=Cassidy |date=2020-01-08 |title=From fetish to fashion: The rise of latex |language=en |url=https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20200108-from-fetish-to-fashion-the-rise-of-latex |access-date=2021-12-07}}</ref> The magazine ended in 1980.<ref name="auto">{{Cite news|url=https://www.theguardian.com/theguardian/2010/sep/11/john-sutcliffe-fetish-wear|title=King of kinky|first=Will|last=Hodgkinson|date=September 10, 2010|newspaper=The Guardian}}</ref> |
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Sutcliffe's work helped inspire [[Sex (boutique)|Sex]], a [[boutique]] run by [[Vivienne Westwood]] and her then-partner [[Malcolm McLaren]] at 430 [[King's Road, London]] between 1974 and 1976, which specialized in clothing that defined the look of the [[Punk fashion|punk movement]].<ref name=PM>{{cite web|work=[[PopMatters]]|title=Fashionably Anti-Establishment: 'Punk: From Chaos to Couture'|author=J.C. Maçek III|date=6 June 2013|url=http://www.popmatters.com/pm/review/171894-punk-from-chaos-to-couture-by-andrew-bolton-et.-al/}}</ref> <ref |
Sutcliffe's work helped inspire [[Sex (boutique)|Sex]], a [[boutique]] run by [[Vivienne Westwood]] and her then-partner [[Malcolm McLaren]] at 430 [[King's Road, London]] between 1974 and 1976, which specialized in clothing that defined the look of the [[Punk fashion|punk movement]].<ref name=PM>{{cite web|work=[[PopMatters]]|title=Fashionably Anti-Establishment: 'Punk: From Chaos to Couture'|author=J.C. Maçek III|date=6 June 2013|url=http://www.popmatters.com/pm/review/171894-punk-from-chaos-to-couture-by-andrew-bolton-et.-al/}}</ref> <ref name="auto2"/> |
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In 1982 Sutcliffe published a novel by Jim Dickson called ''The Story Of Gerda'', about [[Bondage (BDSM)|bondage]] and fetishism.<ref |
In 1982 Sutcliffe published a novel by Jim Dickson called ''The Story Of Gerda'', about [[Bondage (BDSM)|bondage]] and fetishism.<ref name="auto"/><ref name="auto1"/> A copy of it was sent to the police, and to keep from being prosecuted Sutcliffe agreed to have all stock and AtomAge magazine plates destroyed.<ref name="auto1"/> |
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He created a sewing needle for [[Polyvinyl chloride|vinyl]] that improved the ability to stitch and work that material, and a method for attaching a [[muslin]]-type fabric to [[latex]], which after that could be securely sewn.<ref |
He created a sewing needle for [[Polyvinyl chloride|vinyl]] that improved the ability to stitch and work that material, and a method for attaching a [[muslin]]-type fabric to [[latex]], which after that could be securely sewn.<ref name="auto1"/> He also created a sewing machine specifically for leather and asked [[Singer Corporation|Singer]] to manufacture it, but as remembered by his friend Robert Henley, "Singer were so horrified, they called the police."<ref name="auto2"/> |
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==Legacy== |
==Legacy== |
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In 2023 he was inducted into the Leather Hall of Fame.<ref>https://www.theleatherjournal.com/news/la-leather-getaway-by-claw-third-edition</ref> |
In 2023 he was inducted into the Leather Hall of Fame.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.theleatherjournal.com/news/la-leather-getaway-by-claw-third-edition|title=LA Leather Getaway by CLAW - Third edition - The Leather Journal|first=Dave|last=Rhodes|website=www.theleatherjournal.com}}</ref> |
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==Further reading== |
==Further reading== |
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''Dressing for Pleasure in Rubber, Vinyl and Leather: The Best of Atomage 1972-1980''. Jonny Trunk (author). Damon Murray, Jonny Trunk, and Stephen Sorrell (editors). United Kingdom: FUEL, 2010. |
''Dressing for Pleasure in Rubber, Vinyl and Leather: The Best of Atomage 1972-1980''. [[Jonny Trunk]] (author). Damon Murray, [[Jonny Trunk]], and Stephen Sorrell (editors). United Kingdom: FUEL, 2010. |
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==References== |
==References== |
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==External links== |
==External links== |
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* [http://www.atomage.co.uk Atomage Magazine Appreciation Site] (A private, non-commercial site featuring the history and work of John Sutcliffe and his Atomage fetish clothing business) |
* [http://www.atomage.co.uk Atomage Magazine Appreciation Site] (A private, non-commercial site featuring the history and work of John Sutcliffe and his Atomage fetish clothing business) |
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* [http://www.evolver.at/trashmuseum/mix_a.html EVOLVER article on John Sutcliffe] (in German) |
* [http://www.evolver.at/trashmuseum/mix_a.html EVOLVER article on John Sutcliffe] (in German) |
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Latest revision as of 19:25, 27 November 2024
John Sutcliffe (died 1987) was a British fetish clothing designer and publisher of the fetish magazine AtomAge.[1]
In the 1950s he was divorced because his feelings about leather had led to him being diagnosed as mentally ill and treatment failed to change him.[2][3]
He began his AtomAge fetish clothing business in 1957, registering it as a “manufacturer of weatherproofs for lady pillion riders”.[4][2]
He was an influence on the leather catsuits worn by Emma Peel in The Avengers, and created the leather catsuit worn by Marianne Faithfull in the 1968 film The Girl on a Motorcycle.[3]
Sutcliffe published AtomAge magazine, a fetish magazine that was an offshoot of his fetish clothing business. The magazine has been called the "underground bible of leather, rubber and vinyl fetish wear throughout the 1970s"[5][6] and documented Britain's S/M scene.[7][8] The first AtomAge clothing catalogue was published in 1965 and it expanded into a magazine in 1972.[9] The magazine ended in 1980.[10]
Sutcliffe's work helped inspire Sex, a boutique run by Vivienne Westwood and her then-partner Malcolm McLaren at 430 King's Road, London between 1974 and 1976, which specialized in clothing that defined the look of the punk movement.[11] [1]
In 1982 Sutcliffe published a novel by Jim Dickson called The Story Of Gerda, about bondage and fetishism.[10][2] A copy of it was sent to the police, and to keep from being prosecuted Sutcliffe agreed to have all stock and AtomAge magazine plates destroyed.[2]
He created a sewing needle for vinyl that improved the ability to stitch and work that material, and a method for attaching a muslin-type fabric to latex, which after that could be securely sewn.[2] He also created a sewing machine specifically for leather and asked Singer to manufacture it, but as remembered by his friend Robert Henley, "Singer were so horrified, they called the police."[1]
Legacy
[edit]In 2023 he was inducted into the Leather Hall of Fame.[12]
Further reading
[edit]Dressing for Pleasure in Rubber, Vinyl and Leather: The Best of Atomage 1972-1980. Jonny Trunk (author). Damon Murray, Jonny Trunk, and Stephen Sorrell (editors). United Kingdom: FUEL, 2010.
References
[edit]- ^ a b c Hodgkinson, Will (10 September 2010). "King of kinky". The Guardian.
- ^ a b c d e "John Sutcliffe: rubber Johnny". Dazed. 20 September 2014.
- ^ a b "King of kinky". TheGuardian.com. 10 September 2010.
- ^ "Of Human Bondage". W Magazine. 1 October 2010.
- ^ Trunk, Jonny (2010). Dressing for Pleasure in Rubber, Vinyl & Leather: The Best of AtomAge, 1972-1980. FUEL. ISBN 978-0-9563562-3-9.
- ^ Phelps, Nicole (3 March 2021). "Kwaidan Editions Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection". Vogue. Retrieved 7 December 2021.
- ^ Moreland, Quinn (15 December 2017). "Fever Ray Explains How Ball Gags, Leather Fetishes, and Weird Memes Inspired Her New Album". Retrieved 7 December 2021.
- ^ Woo, Kin (4 April 2018). "The Husband-Wife Team Designing Clothes Inspired by David Lynch". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 7 December 2021.
- ^ George, Cassidy (8 January 2020). "From fetish to fashion: The rise of latex". Retrieved 7 December 2021.
- ^ a b Hodgkinson, Will (10 September 2010). "King of kinky". The Guardian.
- ^ J.C. Maçek III (6 June 2013). "Fashionably Anti-Establishment: 'Punk: From Chaos to Couture'". PopMatters.
- ^ Rhodes, Dave. "LA Leather Getaway by CLAW - Third edition - The Leather Journal". www.theleatherjournal.com.
External links
[edit]- Atomage Magazine Appreciation Site (A private, non-commercial site featuring the history and work of John Sutcliffe and his Atomage fetish clothing business)
- Dressing For Pleasure, the book of Atomage imagery, history and readers letters
- EVOLVER article on John Sutcliffe (in German)