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Coordinates: 58°54′23″N 137°31′36″W / 58.90639°N 137.52667°W / 58.90639; -137.52667
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{{for|the mountain in Antarctica|Mount Fairweather (Antarctica)}}
{{for|the mountain in Antarctica|Mount Fairweather (Antarctica)}}
{{short description|Highest mountain in British Columbia, Canada}}
{{Infobox mountain
{{Infobox mountain
| name = Mount Fairweather
| name = Mount Fairweather
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| photo_caption = Mount Fairweather (left) with [[Mount Quincy Adams (Fairweather Range)|Mount Quincy Adams]] (right) from the [[Pacific Ocean]], 2001.
| photo_caption = Mount Fairweather (left) with [[Mount Quincy Adams (Fairweather Range)|Mount Quincy Adams]] (right) from the [[Pacific Ocean]], 2001.
| elevation_system = NAVD88
| elevation_system = NAVD88
| elevation = 4671 m (15,325 ft)
| elevation_m = 4671
| elevation_ref = <ref name=peakbagger/>
| elevation_ref = <ref name=peakbagger/>
| prominence = 3961 m (12,995 ft)
| prominence = 3946 m (12,995 ft)
| prominence_ref = <ref name=peakbagger/>
| prominence_ref = <ref name=peakbagger/>
| isolation = 200 km (124.4 mi)
| isolation = 200 km (124.4 mi)
| isolation_ref = <ref name=peakbagger/>
| isolation_ref = <ref name=peakbagger/>
| listing = {{unbulleted list
| listing = {{unbulleted list
|[[List of mountains of British Columbia|Mountains of British Columbia]]
|[[List of peaks by prominence|World most prominent peaks]] 26th
|[[List of peaks by prominence|World most prominent peaks]] 26th
|[[List of the highest major summits of North America|North America highest peaks]] 18th
|[[List of the highest major summits of North America|North America highest peaks]] 18th
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| location = [[Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve]], [[Alaska]] / [[Stikine Region, British Columbia]]
| location = [[Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve]], [[Alaska]] / [[Stikine Region, British Columbia]]
| range = [[Saint Elias Mountains|Fairweather Range]]
| range = [[Saint Elias Mountains|Fairweather Range]]
| map = USA Alaska | label_position = left
| map = Alaska#British Columbia
| map_caption = Location on Alaska/B.C. border
| map_caption = Location in Alaska##Location in British Columbia
| label_position = left#right
| mapframe = yes
| mapframe-zoom = 8
| mapframe-caption = Interactive map of Mount Fairweather
| coordinates = {{coord|58|54|23|N|137|31|36|W|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates = {{coord|58|54|23|N|137|31|36|W|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates_ref= <ref name=bcgnis>{{cite bcgnis|id=38638|title=Fairweather Mountain|accessdate=2010-07-13}}</ref>
| coordinates_ref = <ref name=bcgnis>{{cite bcgnis|id=38638|title=Fairweather Mountain|access-date=2010-07-13}}</ref>
| topo = [[National Topographic System|NTS]] 114I/13
| topo = [[National Topographic System|NTS]] {{Canada NTS Map Sheet|114|I|13}}
| first_ascent = June 8, 1931 by Allen Carpé and Terris Moore
| first_ascent = June 8, 1931 by [[Allen Carpé]] and [[Terris Moore]]
| easiest_route = glacier/snow/ice climb
| easiest_route = glacier/snow/ice climb
}}
}}
'''Mount Fairweather''' (officially gazetted as '''Fairweather Mountain''' in [[Canada]]<ref name=bcgnis/> but referred to as Mount Fairweather), is the highest mountain in the Canadian province of [[British Columbia]], with an elevation of {{convert|4671|m|ft|0}}. It is located {{convert|20|km|mi|0|abbr=on}} east of the [[Pacific Ocean]] on the border of [[Alaska]], [[United States]] and western [[British Columbia]], [[Canada]]. Most of the mountain lies within [[Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve]] in the [[Yakutat City and Borough, Alaska|City and Borough of Yakutat]], Alaska (USA), though the summit borders [[Tatshenshini-Alsek Provincial Park]], [[British Columbia]] (Canada). It is also designated as '''Boundary Peak 164''' or as ''US/Canada Boundary Point #164''.<ref name=peakbagger/><ref>{{cite peakbagger|pid=27305|name=Mount Fairweather-Northeast Peak, British Columbia|accessdate=2013-12-22}}</ref>
'''Mount Fairweather''' (or ''Tsal<u>x</u>aan'' in the [[Tlingit language]]<ref name="placenames">{{cite web |title=Tlingit Place Names of the Huna Kaawu |url=https://www.nps.gov/glba/learn/historyculture/tlingit-place-names-of-the-huna-kaawu.htm |website=Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve |publisher=National Park Service |access-date=14 February 2024}}</ref>) is {{convert|20|km|mi|0|abbr=on}} east of the [[Pacific Ocean]] on the [[Canada–United States border]] between [[Alaska]] and western [[British Columbia]] and has an elevation of {{convert|4653|m|ft|0}}. Most of the mountain lies within [[Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve]] in the [[Yakutat City and Borough, Alaska|City and Borough of Yakutat]], Alaska, though the summit borders [[Tatshenshini-Alsek Provincial Park]], British Columbia. Tsalxaan is officially gazetted as '''Fairweather Mountain''' in [[Canada]]<ref name=bcgnis/> but referred to as Mount Fairweather, and is the highest mountain in the Canadian province of [[British Columbia]]. It is also designated as '''Boundary Peak 164''' or as ''US/Canada Boundary Point #164''.<ref name=peakbagger/><ref>{{cite peakbagger|pid=27305|name=Mount Fairweather-Northeast Peak, British Columbia|access-date=2013-12-22}}</ref>


⚫
It is said this mountain and ''Yaas'éit'aa Shaa'' ([[Mount Saint Elias|Mt. St. Elias]]) were originally next to each other but had an argument and separated. Their children, the mountains in between the two peaks, are called ''Tsal<u>x</u>aan Yatx'i'' (Children of Tsal<u>x</u>aan.){{citation needed|date=July 2010}}
⚫
The mountain was named on May 3, 1778 by Captain [[James Cook]],<ref name="aaj_1982">Terris Moore, "Mount Fairweather, Correction", ''American Alpine Journal'' 1982, p. 139. He cites ''Cook and King Voyage to the Pacific Ocean'', Volume II, Admiralty, London, 1784, p. 345.</ref> apparently for the unusually good weather encountered at the time. The name has been translated into many languages. It was called "Mt. Beautemps" by [[Jean-François de Galaup, comte de La Pérouse|La Perouse]] (1786, atlas), "Mte. Buen-tiempo" by [[Dionisio Alcalá Galiano|Galiano]] (1802, map 3), "Gor[a]-Khoroshy-pogody" on [[Russian Hydrographic Service|Russian Hydrographic Dept.]] Chart 1378 in 1847, and "G[ora] Fayerveder" by Captain [[Mikhail Tebenkov|Tebenkov]] (1852, map 7), Imperial Russian Navy. It was called "Schönwetterberg" by [[Constantin Grewingk]] in 1850 and "Schönwetter Berg" by [[Justus Perthes]] in 1882.<ref name=gnis>{{cite gnis|id=1420601|name=Mount Fairweather|accessdate=2004-07-09}}</ref>


⚫
The colonial name for the mountain came from Captain [[James Cook]],<ref name="aaj_1982">Terris Moore, "Mount Fairweather, Correction", ''American Alpine Journal'' 1982, p. 139. He cites ''Cook and King Voyage to the Pacific Ocean'', Volume II, Admiralty, London, 1784, p. 345.</ref> on May 3, 1778 apparently for the unusually good weather encountered at the time. The name has been translated into many languages. It was called "Mt. Beautemps" by [[Jean-François de Galaup, comte de La Pérouse|La Perouse]] (1786, atlas), "Mte. Buen-tiempo" by [[Dionisio Alcalá Galiano|Galiano]] (1802, map 3), "Gor[a]-Khoroshy-pogody" on [[Russian Hydrographic Service|Russian Hydrographic Dept.]] Chart 1378 in 1847, and "G[ora] Fayerveder" by Captain [[Mikhail Tebenkov|Tebenkov]] (1852, map 7), Imperial Russian Navy. It was called "Schönwetterberg" by [[Constantin Grewingk]] in 1850 and "Schönwetter Berg" by [[Justus Perthes]] in 1882.<ref name=gnis>{{cite gnis|id=1420601|name=Mount Fairweather|access-date=2004-07-09}}</ref>
⚫
Fairweather was first climbed in 1931 by Allen Carpé and Terris Moore.<ref name=Scott2000/><ref name=gnis/>

⚫
Fairweather was first climbed in 1931 by [[Allen Carpé]] and [[Terris Moore]].<ref name=Scott2000/><ref name=gnis/>


==Geography==
==Geography==
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Like many peaks in the St. Elias Mountains, Mount Fairweather has great vertical relief due to its dramatic rise from Glacier Bay. However, due to poor weather in the area, this effect is usually obscured with the clouds which often hides the summit from view.
Like many peaks in the St. Elias Mountains, Mount Fairweather has great vertical relief due to its dramatic rise from Glacier Bay. However, due to poor weather in the area, this effect is usually obscured with the clouds which often hides the summit from view.

⚫
Known in the [[Tlingit language]] as ''Tsalxhaan'', it is said this mountain and ''Yaas'éit'aa Shaa'' ([[Mount Saint Elias|Mt. St. Elias]]) were originally next to each other but had an argument and separated. Their children, the mountains in between the two peaks, are called ''Tsalxhaan Yatx'i'' (Children of Tsalxaan.){{citation needed|date=July 2010}}


==Weather==
==Weather==
Line 47: Line 53:


==Climbing history==
==Climbing history==
⚫
No documented attempt at climbing the mountain had been successful until 1931.
⚫
[[File:Mt Fairweather 1925.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Dixon Harbor with Mt. Fairweather in the centre, 1925.]]
⚫
* 1926 [[Allen Carpé|Allen Carpe]], Andy Taylor and W.S. Ladd reached {{convert|2890|m|ft|-1|abbr=on}} on the West Ridge, but were forced back due to a steep notch in the ridge that made ferrying supplies very difficult.<ref name=Scott2000/>
⚫
No attempt at climbing the mountain had been successful until 1931.
⚫
* 1926 Allen Carpe, Andy Taylor and W.S. Ladd reached {{convert|2890|m|ft|-1|abbr=on}} on the West Ridge, but were forced back due to a steep notch in the ridge that made ferrying supplies very difficult.<ref name=Scott2000/>
* 1930 [[Bradford Washburn]] also made an attempt on the West Ridge but traveling conditions forced a retreat at {{convert|2040|m|ft|-1}}.<ref name=Scott2000/>
* 1930 [[Bradford Washburn]] also made an attempt on the West Ridge but traveling conditions forced a retreat at {{convert|2040|m|ft|-1}}.<ref name=Scott2000/>
* 1931 Allen Carpe and Terris Moore summited via the ''Southeast Ridge'' on June 8, 1931<ref name=Scott2000/><ref name=gnis/>
* 1931 [[Allen Carpé|Allen Carpe]] and Terris Moore summited via the ''Southeast Ridge'' on June 8, 1931<ref name=Scott2000/><ref name=gnis/>
* 1958 Paddy Sherman and 7 other Canadians reached the summit via the ''SE Ridge'' on June 26, 1958.<ref name=AAJ1974/>
* 1958 Paddy Sherman and 7 other Canadians reached the summit via the ''SE Ridge'' on June 26, 1958.<ref name=AAJ1974/>
* 1968 ''West Ridge'', Loren Adkins, Walter Gove, Paul Myhre, John Neal and Kent Stokes - summit reached June 12, 1968<ref name=AAJ1969/>
* 1968 ''West Ridge'', Loren Adkins, Walter Gove, Paul Myhre, John Neal and Kent Stokes – summit reached June 12, 1968<ref name=AAJ1969/>
* 1973 ''Southwest Ridge'', Peter Metcalf, Henry Florschutz, Toby O'Brien and Lincoln Stoller. Summit reached on July 10, 1973.<ref name=AAJ1974/>
* 1973 ''Southwest Ridge'', Peter Metcalf, Henry Florschutz, Toby O'Brien and Lincoln Stoller. Summit reached on July 10, 1973.<ref name=AAJ1974/>
* 1981 ''Southeast Ridge from the ocean'', Gary Clark, Kim Grandfield, David Lunn. 19 days from Sea Otter Beach and back, Summit reached on May 31, bivouac in crevasse under summit.<ref name=AAJ1974/>


===First Ascent===
===First Documented Ascent===
⚫
[[File:Mount Fairweather mountaineering.jpg|thumb|right|290px|The north face of Mt. Fairweather centered]]
After failing to reach the summit in 1926 due to terrain difficulty on their chosen route, Allen Carpe, W.S. Ladd, Andy Taylor returned in 1931 along with a new member Terry Moore. In early April the group began their approach by boat but stormy weather delayed them rounding Cape Fairweather until April 17. They reached Lituya Bay and unloaded their supplies on the beach. Backtracking {{convert|21|km|mi|0}} along the coast, they made their way to the Fairweather Glacier. From base camp in a spot they called Paradise Valley, they decided to attempt the mountain from the south rather than via the west ridge. Due to deep snow, they realized that skis and snowshoes would be of great help so Carpe and Moore made the {{convert|80|km|mi|abbr=on}} round trip to fetch them from Lituya Bay.<ref name=Scott2000/>
After failing to reach the summit in 1926 due to terrain difficulty on their chosen route, Allen Carpe, W.S. Ladd, Andy Taylor returned in 1931 along with a new member Terris Moore. In early April the group began their approach by boat but stormy weather delayed them rounding Cape Fairweather until April 17. They reached Lituya Bay and unloaded their supplies on the beach. Backtracking {{convert|21|km|mi|0}} along the coast, they made their way to the Fairweather Glacier. From base camp in a spot they called Paradise Valley, they decided to attempt the mountain from the south rather than via the west ridge. Due to deep snow, they realized that skis and snowshoes would be of great help so Carpe and Moore made the {{convert|80|km|mi|abbr=on}} round trip to fetch them from Lituya Bay.<ref name=Scott2000/>


They ascended the glacier from base camp and setup camp at {{convert|1520|m|ft|0|abbr=on}} on the mountain's south face. On May 25, they established high camp at {{convert|2740|m|ft|0|abbr=on}} after making significant progress up a ridge on a rare day of good weather. However, the weather turned and they were forced to descend after an overnight coating of snow. After waiting out the snowstorm for six days at lower camp, they made their way back up to high camp on June 2. They left for the summit at 1:30 am on June 3 and having reached the southeast shoulder by mid-morning, they were feeling so confident that they left the willow wands behind. However, higher altitude and the weeks of hard effort slowed their progress and then the weather changed. By 1 pm not far from the summit, they decided to retreat and had to descend without the wands to guide them. They managed to reach the tents by 4 pm. Ladd and Taylor volunteered to descend due to dwindling supplies at high camp with the hope that Carpe and Moore would be able to make another attempt in good weather. The storm raged for four days before it finally cleared in the evening on June 7. At 10 pm, Carpe and Moore set out for the summit and with no further difficulties made it to the top.<ref name=Scott2000/>
They ascended the glacier from base camp and setup camp at {{convert|1520|m|ft|0|abbr=on}} on the mountain's south face. On May 25, they established high camp at {{convert|2740|m|ft|0|abbr=on}} after making significant progress up a ridge on a rare day of good weather. However, the weather turned and they were forced to descend after an overnight coating of snow. After waiting out the snowstorm for six days at lower camp, they made their way back up to high camp on June 2. They left for the summit at 1:30 am on June 3 and having reached the southeast shoulder by mid-morning, they were feeling so confident that they left the willow wands behind. However, higher altitude and the weeks of hard effort slowed their progress and then the weather changed. By 1 pm not far from the summit, they decided to retreat and had to descend without the wands to guide them. They managed to reach the tents by 4 pm. Ladd and Taylor volunteered to descend due to dwindling supplies at high camp with the hope that Carpe and Moore would be able to make another attempt in good weather. The storm raged for four days before it finally cleared in the evening on June 7. At 10 pm, Carpe and Moore set out for the summit and with no further difficulties made it to the top.<ref name=Scott2000/>
Line 76: Line 83:
| journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 16 | issue = 43 | pages = 390
| journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 16 | issue = 43 | pages = 390
| publisher = American Alpine Club | location = Philadelphia, PA, USA | year = 1969
| publisher = American Alpine Club | location = Philadelphia, PA, USA | year = 1969
| url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196930400 | access-date=2019-08-21 | issn = | doi = }}</ref>
| url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196930400 | access-date=2019-08-21 }}</ref>
<ref name=AAJ1974>
<ref name=AAJ1974>
{{cite journal | last = Metcalf | first = Peter | authorlink = | title = The Southwest Ridge of Fairweather
{{cite journal | last = Metcalf | first = Peter | title = The Southwest Ridge of Fairweather
| journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 19 | issue = 48 | pages = 19–22 | publisher = American Alpine Club
| journal = American Alpine Journal | volume = 19 | issue = 48 | pages = 19–22 | publisher = American Alpine Club
| location = New York, NY, USA | year = 1974 | isbn = 978-0-930410-71-1 | doi =
| location = New York, NY, USA | year = 1974 | isbn = 978-0-930410-71-1
| url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197401900/The-Southwest-Ridge-of-Fairweather
| url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197401900/The-Southwest-Ridge-of-Fairweather
| accessdate = 2018-01-07}}</ref>
| access-date = 2018-01-07}}</ref>
<ref name=peakbagger>
<ref name=peakbagger>
{{cite peakbagger|pid=566|name=Mount Fairweather, Alaska-British Columbia|accessdate=2015-12-30}}</ref>
{{cite peakbagger|pid=566|name=Mount Fairweather, Alaska-British Columbia|access-date=2015-12-30}}</ref>
<ref name=Scott2000>
<ref name=Scott2000>
{{cite book|title = Pushing the Limits, The Story of Canadian Mountaineering|last = Scott|first = Chic|publisher = Rocky Mountain Books|year = 2000|isbn = 0-921102-59-3|location = Calgary, AB, Canada|pages = [https://archive.org/details/pushinglimitssto0000scot/page/130 130–131]|url-access = registration|url = https://archive.org/details/pushinglimitssto0000scot/page/130}}</ref>
{{cite book|title = Pushing the Limits, The Story of Canadian Mountaineering|last = Scott|first = Chic|publisher = Rocky Mountain Books|year = 2000|isbn = 0-921102-59-3|location = Calgary, AB, Canada|pages = [https://archive.org/details/pushinglimitssto0000scot/page/130 130–131]|url-access = registration|url = https://archive.org/details/pushinglimitssto0000scot/page/130}}</ref>
Line 90: Line 97:


==Further reading==
==Further reading==
* {{cite book | last = Sherman | first = Paddy | authorlink = | title = Cloud Walkers | publisher = MacMillan | year = 1966
* {{cite book | last = Sherman | first = Paddy | title = Cloud Walkers | publisher = MacMillan | year = 1966
| location = | pages = | url = | doi = | isbn = 0-916890-79-1 }}
| isbn = 0-916890-79-1 }}


==External links==
==External links==
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{{NA highest}}{{NA prominent}}{{NA isolated}}
{{NA highest}}{{NA prominent}}{{NA isolated}}
{{Alaska}}{{Topics on British Columbia}}
{{Alaska}}{{Topics on British Columbia}}
{{Authority control}}{{Highest points of Canadian Provinces & Territories}}{{DEFAULTSORT:Fairweather, Mount}}
{{Authority control}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Fairweather, Mount}}
[[Category:Landforms of Hoonah–Angoon Census Area, Alaska]]
[[Category:Landforms of Hoonah–Angoon Census Area, Alaska]]
[[Category:Mountains of British Columbia]]
[[Category:Four-thousanders of British Columbia]]
[[Category:Mountains of Alaska]]
[[Category:Mountains of Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve]]
[[Category:Saint Elias Mountains]]
[[Category:Saint Elias Mountains]]
[[Category:Highest points of United States national parks]]
[[Category:Highest points of United States national parks]]
[[Category:Mountains of Yakutat City and Borough, Alaska]]
[[Category:Mountains of Yakutat City and Borough, Alaska]]
[[Category:Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve]]
[[Category:Canada–United States border]]
[[Category:Canada–United States border]]
[[Category:International mountains of North America]]
[[Category:International mountains of North America]]
[[Category:North American 4000 m summits|Mount Fairweather]]
[[Category:Four-thousanders of the United States|Fairweather]]
[[Category:Mountains of Unorganized Borough, Alaska]]
[[Category:Mountains of Unorganized Borough, Alaska]]
[[Category:Cassiar Land District]]

Revision as of 00:03, 8 December 2024

For the mountain in Antarctica, see Mount Fairweather (Antarctica).
Mount Fairweather
Tsalxhaan
Mount Fairweather (left) with Mount Quincy Adams (right) from the Pacific Ocean, 2001.
Highest point
Elevation4,671 m (15,325 ft)[1]
NAVD88
Prominence3946 m (12,995 ft)[1]
Isolation200 km (124.4 mi)[1]
Listing
Coordinates58°54′23″N 137°31′36″W / 58.90639°N 137.52667°W / 58.90639; -137.52667[2]
Geography
Mount Fairweather is located in Alaska
Mount Fairweather
Mount Fairweather
Location in Alaska
Mount Fairweather is located in British Columbia
Mount Fairweather
Mount Fairweather
Location in British Columbia
Map
Interactive map of Mount Fairweather
LocationGlacier Bay National Park and Preserve, Alaska / Stikine Region, British Columbia
Parent rangeFairweather Range
Topo mapNTS 114I13
Climbing
First ascentJune 8, 1931 by Allen Carpé and Terris Moore
Easiest routeglacier/snow/ice climb

Mount Fairweather (or Tsalxaan in the Tlingit language[3]) is 20 km (12 mi) east of the Pacific Ocean on the Canada–United States border between Alaska and western British Columbia and has an elevation of 4,653 metres (15,266 ft). Most of the mountain lies within Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve in the City and Borough of Yakutat, Alaska, though the summit borders Tatshenshini-Alsek Provincial Park, British Columbia. Tsalxaan is officially gazetted as Fairweather Mountain in Canada[2] but referred to as Mount Fairweather, and is the highest mountain in the Canadian province of British Columbia. It is also designated as Boundary Peak 164 or as US/Canada Boundary Point #164.[1][4]

It is said this mountain and Yaas'éit'aa Shaa (Mt. St. Elias) were originally next to each other but had an argument and separated. Their children, the mountains in between the two peaks, are called Tsalxaan Yatx'i (Children of Tsalxaan.)[citation needed]

The colonial name for the mountain came from Captain James Cook,[5] on May 3, 1778 apparently for the unusually good weather encountered at the time. The name has been translated into many languages. It was called "Mt. Beautemps" by La Perouse (1786, atlas), "Mte. Buen-tiempo" by Galiano (1802, map 3), "Gor[a]-Khoroshy-pogody" on Russian Hydrographic Dept. Chart 1378 in 1847, and "G[ora] Fayerveder" by Captain Tebenkov (1852, map 7), Imperial Russian Navy. It was called "Schönwetterberg" by Constantin Grewingk in 1850 and "Schönwetter Berg" by Justus Perthes in 1882.[6]

Fairweather was first climbed in 1931 by Allen Carpé and Terris Moore.[7][6]

Geography

Mount Fairweather is located right above Glacier Bay in the Fairweather Range of the Saint Elias Mountains. Mount Fairweather also marks the northwest extremity of the Alaska Panhandle.

Like many peaks in the St. Elias Mountains, Mount Fairweather has great vertical relief due to its dramatic rise from Glacier Bay. However, due to poor weather in the area, this effect is usually obscured with the clouds which often hides the summit from view.

Weather

Despite its name, Mount Fairweather has generally harsh weather conditions. It receives over 100 inches (254 cm) of precipitation each year (mostly snow) and sees temperatures of around −50 °F (−46 °C).[citation needed]

Climbing history

No documented attempt at climbing the mountain had been successful until 1931.

  • 1926 Allen Carpe, Andy Taylor and W.S. Ladd reached 2,890 m (9,480 ft) on the West Ridge, but were forced back due to a steep notch in the ridge that made ferrying supplies very difficult.[7]
  • 1930 Bradford Washburn also made an attempt on the West Ridge but traveling conditions forced a retreat at 2,040 metres (6,690 ft).[7]
  • 1931 Allen Carpe and Terris Moore summited via the Southeast Ridge on June 8, 1931[7][6]
  • 1958 Paddy Sherman and 7 other Canadians reached the summit via the SE Ridge on June 26, 1958.[8]
  • 1968 West Ridge, Loren Adkins, Walter Gove, Paul Myhre, John Neal and Kent Stokes – summit reached June 12, 1968[9]
  • 1973 Southwest Ridge, Peter Metcalf, Henry Florschutz, Toby O'Brien and Lincoln Stoller. Summit reached on July 10, 1973.[8]
  • 1981 Southeast Ridge from the ocean, Gary Clark, Kim Grandfield, David Lunn. 19 days from Sea Otter Beach and back, Summit reached on May 31, bivouac in crevasse under summit.[8]

First Documented Ascent

The north face of Mt. Fairweather centered

After failing to reach the summit in 1926 due to terrain difficulty on their chosen route, Allen Carpe, W.S. Ladd, Andy Taylor returned in 1931 along with a new member Terris Moore. In early April the group began their approach by boat but stormy weather delayed them rounding Cape Fairweather until April 17. They reached Lituya Bay and unloaded their supplies on the beach. Backtracking 21 kilometres (13 mi) along the coast, they made their way to the Fairweather Glacier. From base camp in a spot they called Paradise Valley, they decided to attempt the mountain from the south rather than via the west ridge. Due to deep snow, they realized that skis and snowshoes would be of great help so Carpe and Moore made the 80 km (50 mi) round trip to fetch them from Lituya Bay.[7]

They ascended the glacier from base camp and setup camp at 1,520 m (4,987 ft) on the mountain's south face. On May 25, they established high camp at 2,740 m (8,990 ft) after making significant progress up a ridge on a rare day of good weather. However, the weather turned and they were forced to descend after an overnight coating of snow. After waiting out the snowstorm for six days at lower camp, they made their way back up to high camp on June 2. They left for the summit at 1:30 am on June 3 and having reached the southeast shoulder by mid-morning, they were feeling so confident that they left the willow wands behind. However, higher altitude and the weeks of hard effort slowed their progress and then the weather changed. By 1 pm not far from the summit, they decided to retreat and had to descend without the wands to guide them. They managed to reach the tents by 4 pm. Ladd and Taylor volunteered to descend due to dwindling supplies at high camp with the hope that Carpe and Moore would be able to make another attempt in good weather. The storm raged for four days before it finally cleared in the evening on June 7. At 10 pm, Carpe and Moore set out for the summit and with no further difficulties made it to the top.[7]

See also

References

  1. ^ a b c d "Mount Fairweather, Alaska-British Columbia". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2015-12-30.
  2. ^ a b "Fairweather Mountain". BC Geographical Names. Retrieved 2010-07-13.
  3. ^ "Tlingit Place Names of the Huna Kaawu". Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve. National Park Service. Retrieved 14 February 2024.
  4. ^ "Mount Fairweather-Northeast Peak, British Columbia". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2013-12-22.
  5. ^ Terris Moore, "Mount Fairweather, Correction", American Alpine Journal 1982, p. 139. He cites Cook and King Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, Volume II, Admiralty, London, 1784, p. 345.
  6. ^ a b c "Mount Fairweather". Geographic Names Information System. United States Geological Survey, United States Department of the Interior. Retrieved 2004-07-09.
  7. ^ a b c d e f Scott, Chic (2000). Pushing the Limits, The Story of Canadian Mountaineering. Calgary, AB, Canada: Rocky Mountain Books. pp. 130–131. ISBN 0-921102-59-3.
  8. ^ a b c Metcalf, Peter (1974). "The Southwest Ridge of Fairweather". American Alpine Journal. 19 (48). New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 19–22. ISBN 978-0-930410-71-1. Retrieved 2018-01-07.
  9. ^ Gove, Walter; Adkins, Loren (1969). "The West Ridge of Mount Fairweather". American Alpine Journal. 16 (43). Philadelphia, PA, USA: American Alpine Club: 390. Retrieved 2019-08-21.

Further reading

Retrieved from "https://en.wikipedia.org/enwiki/w/index.php?title=Mount_Fairweather&oldid=1261793147"