Sruli Recht: Difference between revisions
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{{Infobox fashion designer |
{{Infobox fashion designer |
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|name = Sruli Recht |
|name = Sruli Recht |
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|birth_date = 1979 |
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|birth_place = [[Jerusalem]], Israel |
|birth_place = [[Jerusalem]], Israel |
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|education = [[RMIT University|Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology]] |
|education = [[RMIT University|Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology]] |
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|label_name = Sruli Recht, Sruli Recht Shoes |
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* Sruli Recht, |
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* Sruli Recht Shoes |
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|awards = Premium Young Designer Award, [[Kvosin]] competition for Reykjavik City Center, [http://idesignawards.com IDA – International Design Awards] |
|awards = Premium Young Designer Award, [[Kvosin]] competition for Reykjavik City Center, [http://idesignawards.com IDA – International Design Awards] |
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|known_for = |
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|occupation = Designer |
|occupation = Designer |
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|website ={{url|https://srulirecht.com/}} |
|website ={{url|https://srulirecht.com/}} |
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[[File:2012 Sruli Recht corset, called "Horset", made from satin-weave horsehair.jpg|thumb|''Horset'', 2012. [[Satin]]-woven horsehair men's corset. ([[RISD Museum]])<ref name=horset/>]] |
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[[File:Sruli Recht - An Emperor's New Untangling, 2012. Shirt knitted from Biosteel 01.jpg|thumb|''An Emperor's New Untangling'', 2012. Knitted sheer shirt made from Biosteel, a synthesized [[spider silk]] made from genetically modified goat's milk proteins.<ref>{{cite web |last1=Staff writer |title=An Emperor's New Untangling |url=https://risdmuseum.org/art-design/collection/emperors-new-untangling-2012952 |website=risdmuseum.org |publisher=RISD Museum |access-date=6 May 2022}}</ref> ([[RISD Museum]])]] |
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'''Sruli Recht''' is a designer and artist based in [[Reykjavík]], Iceland. He was born in [[Jerusalem]], Israel and holds Australian and Icelandic citizenship. |
'''Sruli Recht''' (born 1979<ref name=horset>{{cite web |title=Horset |url=https://risdmuseum.org/art-design/collection/horset-2012951 |website=risdmuseum.org |publisher=RISD Museum |access-date=6 August 2022}}</ref>) is a designer and artist based in [[Reykjavík]], Iceland. He was born in [[Jerusalem]], Israel, and holds Australian and Icelandic citizenship. {{citation needed|date=November 2021}} |
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Recht studied Fashion Design at [[RMIT University]] in Melbourne, Australia.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.theage.com.au/news/business/tailormade-art-suits-sruli/2005/09/04/1125772410149.html|title=Tailor-made art suits Sruli|publisher=| |
Recht studied Fashion Design at [[RMIT University]] in Melbourne, Australia.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.theage.com.au/news/business/tailormade-art-suits-sruli/2005/09/04/1125772410149.html|title=Tailor-made art suits Sruli|date=5 September 2005|publisher=|access-date=16 January 2016}}</ref> |
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In 2005 Recht left Australia to London where he worked with British designer [[Alexander McQueen]] before relocating to Reykjavik, Iceland, where he has been based since 2005.<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://jcreport.com/features/fashion-features/new-designer/2009/12/08/sruli-recht-slows-down-fashion/ |title= |
In 2005 Recht left Australia to London where he worked with British designer [[Alexander McQueen]] before relocating to Reykjavik, Iceland, where he has been based since 2005.<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://jcreport.com/features/fashion-features/new-designer/2009/12/08/sruli-recht-slows-down-fashion/ |title=JC Report | Inside Global Fashion Trends - FEATURES – Sruli Recht Slows Down Fashion |access-date=5 May 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120509000500/http://jcreport.com/features/fashion-features/new-designer/2009/12/08/sruli-recht-slows-down-fashion/ |archive-date=9 May 2012 |url-status=dead }}</ref> |
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==Work== |
==Work== |
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Recht's work is considered to be innovative in its use of indigenous, new and unconventional materials and technologies<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/wooden-clothing|title=Haute Wooden Menswear|date=23 January 2013|work=TrendHunter.com| |
Recht's work is considered to be innovative in its use of indigenous, new and unconventional materials and technologies<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/wooden-clothing|title=Haute Wooden Menswear|date=23 January 2013|work=TrendHunter.com|access-date=16 January 2016}}</ref> though also seen by many to be controversial due to the use of materials such as [[minke whale]] foreskin, [[spider silk]], [[Pinniped|seal]] and [[Anthropodermic bibliopegy|human skin]].<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.ft.com/intl/cms/s/2/801eb298-7ce4-11e0-a7c7-00144feabdc0.html#axzz2SMKhkuxw|title=London, Paris, New York, Lima?|work=[[Financial Times]]|date=13 May 2011|access-date=16 January 2016}}</ref> |
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Although he is known mostly as a fashion designer, some garments and show pieces from his seasonal collections are seen to blur the relationships between art, design and fashion.<ref>{{cite web|url= |
Although he is known mostly as a fashion designer, some garments and show pieces from his seasonal collections are seen to blur the relationships between art, design and fashion.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/01/22/sruli-recht-forget-me-knot-skin-ring_n_2528183.html|title=Sruli Recht, Designer, Creates 'Forget Me Knot' Skin Ring Featuring Slice Of His Own Flesh (GRAPHIC VIDEO)|date=22 January 2013|work=[[The Huffington Post]]|access-date=16 January 2016}}</ref><ref name="msn.com">{{cite web|url=http://now.msn.com/sruli-recht-sells-a-pair-of-sharkskin-gloves-that-cannot-be-removed|title=MSN.com - Hotmail, Outlook, Skype, Bing, Latest News, Photos & Videos|publisher=[[MSN.com]]|access-date=16 January 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130911165346/http://now.msn.com/sruli-recht-sells-a-pair-of-sharkskin-gloves-that-cannot-be-removed|archive-date=11 September 2013|url-status=dead}}</ref> |
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Examples of this are: |
Examples of this are: |
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* Stone Blind: A pair of [[eyeglasses|frames]] with white hand-cut [[Carrara marble]] lenses, intended for the [[visually impaired]]. |
* Stone Blind: A pair of [[eyeglasses|frames]] with white hand-cut [[Carrara marble]] lenses, intended for the [[visually impaired]]. |
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* A Lasting Impression: [[Gloves]] made from the skin of a [[basking shark]] with the barbs on the inside of the glove. Due to the direction of the barbs, once the glove is put on the wearer can not remove them again unless they cut the gloves off.<ref name="msn.com"/> |
* A Lasting Impression: [[Gloves]] made from the skin of a [[basking shark]] with the barbs on the inside of the glove. Due to the direction of the barbs, once the glove is put on the wearer can not remove them again unless they cut the gloves off.<ref name="msn.com"/> |
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* The Damned: A [[pocket square]], or handkerchief, made from [[bullet-proof]] [[kevlar]], intended to be worn in the breast pocket of a suit to protect the heart.<ref>{{cite |
* The Damned: A [[pocket square]], or handkerchief, made from [[bullet-proof]] [[kevlar]], intended to be worn in the breast pocket of a suit to protect the heart.<ref>{{cite magazine|url=https://www.wired.com/gadgetlab/2009/12/bulletproof-handkerchief-protects-a-gentlemans-heart/|title=Bulletproof Handkerchief Protects A Gentleman's Heart|date=29 December 2009|magazine=[[Wired (magazine)|WIRED]]|access-date=16 January 2016}}</ref> |
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And |
And arguably his most controversial piece: |
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*Forget Me Knot: In 2012 Recht documented a one-off surgery/performance during which a plastic surgeon removed a 110 mm × 10 mm strip of skin from his abdomen while he was awake. The piece of skin with the hair still attached was tanned and mounted to a 24kt gold ring<ref>{{cite |
*Forget Me Knot: In 2012 Recht documented a one-off surgery/performance during which a plastic surgeon removed a 110 mm × 10 mm strip of skin from his abdomen while he was awake. The piece of skin with the hair still attached was tanned and mounted to a 24kt gold ring<ref>{{cite AV media|url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xn-c7aML81I|title=Artist Sells Ring Made of Own Skin|date=25 January 2013|publisher=|accessdate=16 January 2016|via=YouTube}}</ref>{{unreliable source?|date=January 2016}}<ref>{{cite web|url=http://dianepernet.typepad.com/diane/2013/03/hard-core-not-for-the-faint-heartedforget-me-knot-rings-from-skin.html|title=Diane, A Shaded View on Fashion|access-date=16 January 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304104530/http://dianepernet.typepad.com/diane/2013/03/hard-core-not-for-the-faint-heartedforget-me-knot-rings-from-skin.html|archive-date=4 March 2016|url-status=dead}}</ref>{{unreliable source?|date=January 2016}} |
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==Collections== |
==Collections== |
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His solo commercial career began with the launch of a shoe collection under the Sruli Recht label in 2007, described by [ |
His solo commercial career began with the launch of a shoe collection under the Sruli Recht label in 2007, described by [[WGSN]] as "...one of the most intriguing and imaginative footwear collections seen."{{Citation needed|date=May 2013}} This collection was highlighted by the controversial use of one boot made from [[minke whale]] skins.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.mbl.is/frettir/innlent/2011/03/15/hannar_fot_ur_forhud/ |title=Hannar föt úr forhúð|publisher= |access-date=16 January 2016}}</ref> Prior to the [[2008 economic downturn]] Recht began to release one product a month under a collection titled Non-Products, while preparing to launch the main clothing line. Recht launched the seasonal clothing line in Paris in 2011 that he had developed during the crash in Iceland, in 2010 from his studio based on the outskirts of Reykjavik<ref>{{cite magazine|url=http://www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,1938538,00.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20091118143458/http://www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,1938538,00.html |url-status=dead |archive-date=18 November 2009 |title=Iceland's Fashion Designers Flourish in the Downturn|date=14 November 2009|magazine=[[Time (magazine)|Time]] |access-date=16 January 2016}}</ref> |
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He has been presenting as part of the [[Paris Fashion Week]] runway schedule since January 2012<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.modemonline.com/modem-mag/article/1844-sruli-recht|title=Sruli Recht |
He has been presenting as part of the [[Paris Fashion Week]] runway schedule since January 2012<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.modemonline.com/modem-mag/article/1844-sruli-recht|title=Sruli Recht - modem mag - modemonline.com|publisher=|access-date=16 January 2016}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://nowfashion.com/archive.php?designer=-1022-&collection=&season=&location=&year=|title=Fashion Photo Galleries of all Top Designers' Latest Collections|work=NOWFASHION|access-date=16 January 2016}}</ref> |
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"Luxury of Choice" is a collection released by Recht in 2020. It is a collection of 19 objects designed to be "Not an attempt to glamorize or promote taking one’s own life, but to consider [[Suicide|self-deliverance]] as a worthy act; the one that requires a sense of the personal and intimate." These objects span four main methods, listed as "by breath," "by fire," "by water," and "by earth." This collection was inspired by the suicide method of a friend of Recht's, involving a "300 kronur rope used for pulling cars." |
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==Notoriety== |
==Notoriety== |
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''Wallpaper'' magazine selected Recht's store Vopnabúrið, an Icelandic word for "the Armoury", among the ten most interesting shops in the world in 2010, along with stores such as Hermes in New York, Comme de Garçons in Hong Kong and the Stella McCartney store in Milan.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.visir.is/vopnaburid-i-hop-bestu-verslana-heims/article/2011880096743 |title=Vopnabúrið í hóp bestu verslana heims|date=9 January 2011|work=[[visir.is]] | |
''Wallpaper'' magazine selected Recht's store Vopnabúrið, an Icelandic word for "the Armoury", among the ten most interesting shops in the world in 2010, along with stores such as Hermes in New York, Comme de Garçons in Hong Kong and the Stella McCartney store in Milan.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.visir.is/vopnaburid-i-hop-bestu-verslana-heims/article/2011880096743 |title=Vopnabúrið í hóp bestu verslana heims|date=9 January 2011|work=[[visir.is]] |access-date=16 January 2016}}</ref> |
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Recht's studio was raided by the Icelandic police in August 2009 where they seized stock of The Umbuster (a combination of an umbrella and brass knuckles) and charged Recht with prohibited weapons importation, prohibited weapons manufacture, and intent to sell prohibited weapons.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.visir.is/akaerdur-fyrir-brot-a-islenskum-vopnalogum-vegna-regnhlifar/article/2010440742746|title=Ákærður fyrir brot á íslenskum vopnalögum vegna regnhlífar|author=Þorbjörn Þórðarson|date=5 October 2010|work=[[visir.is]]| |
Recht's studio was raided by the Icelandic police in August 2009 where they seized stock of The Umbuster (a combination of an umbrella and brass knuckles) and charged Recht with prohibited weapons importation, prohibited weapons manufacture, and intent to sell prohibited weapons.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.visir.is/akaerdur-fyrir-brot-a-islenskum-vopnalogum-vegna-regnhlifar/article/2010440742746|title=Ákærður fyrir brot á íslenskum vopnalögum vegna regnhlífar|author=Þorbjörn Þórðarson|date=5 October 2010|work=[[visir.is]]|access-date=16 January 2016}}</ref> Recht initially lost the case brought against him by the police, though appealed, while at the same time opening a new case with the supreme court of Iceland to de-categorise The Umbuster as a weapon. In October 2010 Recht won the case, the court deciding that The Umbuster was not a weapon, and was acquitted of the earlier charges.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.visir.is/sruli-syknadur-af-thvi-ad-flytja-inn-hnuajarn/article/2010319116065|title=Sruli sýknaður af því að flytja inn hnúajárn - Vísir|date=10 July 2010 }}</ref> |
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==Publications== |
==Publications== |
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==Interviews== |
==Interviews== |
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*[http://www.core77.com/blog/object_culture/interview_with_designer_sruli_recht_part_1_macrobiotic_fractal-based_production_methods_and_more_16315.asp Core77 – Three part interview] |
*[http://www.core77.com/blog/object_culture/interview_with_designer_sruli_recht_part_1_macrobiotic_fractal-based_production_methods_and_more_16315.asp Core77 – Three part interview] |
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==External links== |
==External links== |
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* [http://www.srulirecht.com Sruli Recht Homepage] |
* [http://www.srulirecht.com Sruli Recht Homepage] |
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{{DEFAULTSORT:Recht, Sruli}} |
{{DEFAULTSORT:Recht, Sruli}} |
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[[Category:Living people]] |
[[Category:Living people]] |
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[[Category:Icelandic fashion designers]] |
[[Category:Icelandic fashion designers]] |
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[[Category:Icelandic artists]] |
[[Category:21st-century Icelandic artists]] |
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[[Category:Israeli Jews]] |
[[Category:21st-century Israeli Jews]] |
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[[Category:Australian expatriates in Iceland]] |
[[Category:Australian expatriates in Iceland]] |
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[[Category:Australian designers]] |
[[Category:Australian designers]] |
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[[Category:Artists from Melbourne]] |
[[Category:Artists from Melbourne]] |
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[[Category:1979 births]] |
[[Category:1979 births]] |
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[[Category:Australian Jews]] |
[[Category:21st-century Australian Jews]] |
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[[Category: |
[[Category:Artists from Jerusalem]] |
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[[Category:Icelandic Jews]] |
[[Category:Icelandic Jews]] |
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[[Category:RMIT University alumni]] |
[[Category:RMIT University alumni]] |
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[[Category:Jewish fashion designers]] |
Latest revision as of 02:04, 17 December 2024
Sruli Recht | |
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Born | 1979 Jerusalem, Israel |
Education | Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology |
Occupation | Designer |
Labels |
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Awards | Premium Young Designer Award, Kvosin competition for Reykjavik City Center, IDA – International Design Awards |
Website | srulirecht |
Sruli Recht (born 1979[1]) is a designer and artist based in Reykjavík, Iceland. He was born in Jerusalem, Israel, and holds Australian and Icelandic citizenship. [citation needed]
Recht studied Fashion Design at RMIT University in Melbourne, Australia.[3] In 2005 Recht left Australia to London where he worked with British designer Alexander McQueen before relocating to Reykjavik, Iceland, where he has been based since 2005.[4]
Work
[edit]Recht's work is considered to be innovative in its use of indigenous, new and unconventional materials and technologies[5] though also seen by many to be controversial due to the use of materials such as minke whale foreskin, spider silk, seal and human skin.[6] Although he is known mostly as a fashion designer, some garments and show pieces from his seasonal collections are seen to blur the relationships between art, design and fashion.[7][8]
Examples of this are:
- Carradina: An auto-erotic asphyxiation belt made from the skin of an Atlantic white-sided dolphin, provided with a hook to place on a door or handle.
- Stone Blind: A pair of frames with white hand-cut Carrara marble lenses, intended for the visually impaired.
- A Lasting Impression: Gloves made from the skin of a basking shark with the barbs on the inside of the glove. Due to the direction of the barbs, once the glove is put on the wearer can not remove them again unless they cut the gloves off.[8]
- The Damned: A pocket square, or handkerchief, made from bullet-proof kevlar, intended to be worn in the breast pocket of a suit to protect the heart.[9]
And arguably his most controversial piece:
- Forget Me Knot: In 2012 Recht documented a one-off surgery/performance during which a plastic surgeon removed a 110 mm × 10 mm strip of skin from his abdomen while he was awake. The piece of skin with the hair still attached was tanned and mounted to a 24kt gold ring[10][unreliable source?][11][unreliable source?]
Collections
[edit]His solo commercial career began with the launch of a shoe collection under the Sruli Recht label in 2007, described by WGSN as "...one of the most intriguing and imaginative footwear collections seen."[citation needed] This collection was highlighted by the controversial use of one boot made from minke whale skins.[12] Prior to the 2008 economic downturn Recht began to release one product a month under a collection titled Non-Products, while preparing to launch the main clothing line. Recht launched the seasonal clothing line in Paris in 2011 that he had developed during the crash in Iceland, in 2010 from his studio based on the outskirts of Reykjavik[13] He has been presenting as part of the Paris Fashion Week runway schedule since January 2012[14][15]
"Luxury of Choice" is a collection released by Recht in 2020. It is a collection of 19 objects designed to be "Not an attempt to glamorize or promote taking one’s own life, but to consider self-deliverance as a worthy act; the one that requires a sense of the personal and intimate." These objects span four main methods, listed as "by breath," "by fire," "by water," and "by earth." This collection was inspired by the suicide method of a friend of Recht's, involving a "300 kronur rope used for pulling cars."
Notoriety
[edit]Wallpaper magazine selected Recht's store Vopnabúrið, an Icelandic word for "the Armoury", among the ten most interesting shops in the world in 2010, along with stores such as Hermes in New York, Comme de Garçons in Hong Kong and the Stella McCartney store in Milan.[16]
Recht's studio was raided by the Icelandic police in August 2009 where they seized stock of The Umbuster (a combination of an umbrella and brass knuckles) and charged Recht with prohibited weapons importation, prohibited weapons manufacture, and intent to sell prohibited weapons.[17] Recht initially lost the case brought against him by the police, though appealed, while at the same time opening a new case with the supreme court of Iceland to de-categorise The Umbuster as a weapon. In October 2010 Recht won the case, the court deciding that The Umbuster was not a weapon, and was acquitted of the earlier charges.[18]
Publications
[edit]- Randscharf – On the Cutting Edge – Design in Iceland, Gestalten
- Shoe Design – Overview of contemporary shoe designers, Daab Publishing
- Outside The Box, Cardboard Design Now – International packaging design, Black Dog Publishing
- Hello, Mr. Package ! – International packaging design focusing on male designers, SendPoint Publishing
- Magma – Magma / Kvika Contemporary Iceland Design 2007
- Magic Packaging – International packaging design, Designer Books
- Art of Package Design – International packaging design, Ginko Press
- Doppelganger – Images of the Human Being, Gestalten
Interviews
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ a b "Horset". risdmuseum.org. RISD Museum. Retrieved 6 August 2022.
- ^ Staff writer. "An Emperor's New Untangling". risdmuseum.org. RISD Museum. Retrieved 6 May 2022.
- ^ "Tailor-made art suits Sruli". 5 September 2005. Retrieved 16 January 2016.
- ^ "JC Report | Inside Global Fashion Trends - FEATURES – Sruli Recht Slows Down Fashion". Archived from the original on 9 May 2012. Retrieved 5 May 2013.
- ^ "Haute Wooden Menswear". TrendHunter.com. 23 January 2013. Retrieved 16 January 2016.
- ^ "London, Paris, New York, Lima?". Financial Times. 13 May 2011. Retrieved 16 January 2016.
- ^ "Sruli Recht, Designer, Creates 'Forget Me Knot' Skin Ring Featuring Slice Of His Own Flesh (GRAPHIC VIDEO)". The Huffington Post. 22 January 2013. Retrieved 16 January 2016.
- ^ a b "MSN.com - Hotmail, Outlook, Skype, Bing, Latest News, Photos & Videos". MSN.com. Archived from the original on 11 September 2013. Retrieved 16 January 2016.
- ^ "Bulletproof Handkerchief Protects A Gentleman's Heart". WIRED. 29 December 2009. Retrieved 16 January 2016.
- ^ Artist Sells Ring Made of Own Skin. 25 January 2013. Retrieved 16 January 2016 – via YouTube.
- ^ "Diane, A Shaded View on Fashion". Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 16 January 2016.
- ^ "Hannar föt úr forhúð". Retrieved 16 January 2016.
- ^ "Iceland's Fashion Designers Flourish in the Downturn". Time. 14 November 2009. Archived from the original on 18 November 2009. Retrieved 16 January 2016.
- ^ "Sruli Recht - modem mag - modemonline.com". Retrieved 16 January 2016.
- ^ "Fashion Photo Galleries of all Top Designers' Latest Collections". NOWFASHION. Retrieved 16 January 2016.
- ^ "Vopnabúrið í hóp bestu verslana heims". visir.is. 9 January 2011. Retrieved 16 January 2016.
- ^ Þorbjörn Þórðarson (5 October 2010). "Ákærður fyrir brot á íslenskum vopnalögum vegna regnhlífar". visir.is. Retrieved 16 January 2016.
- ^ "Sruli sýknaður af því að flytja inn hnúajárn - Vísir". 10 July 2010.
External links
[edit]- Living people
- Icelandic fashion designers
- 21st-century Icelandic artists
- 21st-century Israeli Jews
- Australian expatriates in Iceland
- Australian designers
- Australian fashion designers
- Artists from Melbourne
- 1979 births
- 21st-century Australian Jews
- Artists from Jerusalem
- Icelandic Jews
- RMIT University alumni
- Jewish fashion designers