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{{Short description|A type of Chinese wedding dress}}
{{Short description|A type of Chinese wedding dress}}
{{Infobox Chinese
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[[File:Wedding_costume_in_midi_(dense_embroidery)_style,_view_1,_with_dragon-and-phoenix_patterns_-_Hong_Kong_Museum_of_History_-_DSC00951.JPG|thumb|168x168px|Qungua found in [[Hong Kong Museum of History]].]]
| order = ts
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'''Qungua''' ({{Lang-zh|s=裙褂}}， ''kwan4 gwaa3'' in Cantonese jyutping), also known as or '''longfeng gua''' ({{Lang-zh|t=龍鳳褂|s=龙凤褂}}),<ref name=":0">{{Cite web|title=To Have And To Embroider: The “Long Feng Gua” Wedding Tradition {{!}} US-China Institute|url=https://china.usc.edu/have-and-embroider-%E2%80%9Clong-feng-gua%E2%80%9D-wedding-tradition|access-date=2021-06-04|website=china.usc.edu|language=en}}</ref> or '''longfeng qungua''' ({{Lang-zh|t=龍鳳裙褂|s=龙凤裙褂}}),<ref name=":1">{{Cite web|last=JNTT|date=2020-07-30|title=SAME SAME BUT DIFFERENT|url=https://www.theredwedding.com/post/same-same-but-different|access-date=2021-06-04|website=The Red Wedding|language=en}}</ref> or '''guaqun''' ({{Lang-zh|s=褂裙}}, ''gwaa3 kwan4'' in Cantonese jyutping),<ref name=":2">{{Cite journal|last=Li|first=Yuling|date=2019|title=New meaning in traditional wedding dresses – Xiu He Fu and Long Feng Gua – in contemporary China [Master's Thesis]|url=http://studentsrepo.um.edu.my/id/eprint/11386|journal=Cultural Centre, University of Malaya|pages=i-102}}</ref> is one type of two-piece ceremonial [[Traditional Chinese marriage|traditional Chinese wedding]] set of attire which is composed of a jacket called ''gua'' (褂) and of a long skirt called ''qun'' (裙). The ''qungua'' is a type of [[Hanfu]] worn by [[Han Chinese]] brides;<ref name=":6">{{Cite journal|last=Qiao|first=Nan|last2=Tan|first2=Yan-rong|date=2017|title=Talk About the Chinese Wedding Dress of Modern Women|url=https://www.dpi-proceedings.com/index.php/dtssehs/article/view/18048/17554|journal=2017 3rd International Conference on Social, Education and Management Engineering (SEME 2017)|pages=299-301}}</ref> it is also the traditional wedding attire of [[Cantonese people|Cantonese]] brides in the [[Guangdong]] regions.<ref name=":2" /><ref name=":3">{{Cite web|date=2016-01-28|title=Chinese Wedding Traditions: Qun Gua {{!}} Hong Kong Wedding Blog|url=https://brideandbreakfast.hk/2016/01/28/chinese-wedding-traditions-qun-gua/|access-date=2021-06-04|language=en-US}}</ref> Nowadays, the ''qungua'' is still popular as a wedding dress in [[China]], including in [[Hong Kong|Hong kong]] and [[Macau]].<ref name=":0" />
| c = 裙褂
| p = Qúnguà
| w = Ch'ün2-kwa4
| j = Kwan4 gwaa3
| l = Skirt jacket
| altname = Longfenggua
| t2 = 龍鳳褂
| s2 = 龙凤褂
| p2 = Lóngfèngguà
| w2 = Lung2-feng4-kua4
| j2 = lung4 fung6 gwaa3
| altname3 = Longfeng qungua
| t3 = 龍鳳裙褂
| s3 = 龙凤裙褂
| p3 = Lóngfèng qúnguà
| w3 = Lung2-feng4-ch'ün2-kua4
| j3 = lung4 fung6 Kwan4 gwaa3
| altname4 = Guaqun
| c4 = 褂裙
| p4 = Guàqún
| w4 = Kua4-Ch'ün2
| j4 = gwaa3 kwan4
| pic = [[File:HK 太子 Prince Edward 彌敦道 747 Nathan Road 金都商場 Golden Plaza December 2020 SS2 12.jpg|HK 太子 Prince Edward 彌敦道 747 Nathan Road 金都商場 Golden Plaza December 2020 SS2 12|150px]]
| piccap = Qungua in Hong Kong, 2020
}}
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'''{{Transliteration|zh|Qungua}}''' ({{Lang-zh|s=裙褂|first=t|j=kwan4 gwaa3}}), also known as '''{{Transliteration|zh|longfenggua}}''' ({{Lang-zh|t=龍鳳褂|s=龙凤褂|first=t}}),<ref name=":0">{{Cite web|title=To Have And To Embroider: The "Long Feng Gua" Wedding Tradition {{!}} US-China Institute|url=https://china.usc.edu/have-and-embroider-%E2%80%9Clong-feng-gua%E2%80%9D-wedding-tradition|access-date=2021-06-04|website=china.usc.edu|language=en}}</ref> or '''{{Transliteration|zh|longfeng qungua}}''' ({{Lang-zh|t=龍鳳裙褂|s=龙凤裙褂|first=t}}),<ref name=":1">{{Cite web|last=JNTT|date=2020-07-30|title=SAME SAME BUT DIFFERENT|url=https://www.theredwedding.com/post/same-same-but-different|access-date=2021-06-04|website=The Red Wedding|language=en}}</ref> or '''{{Transliteration|zh|guaqun}}''' ({{Lang-zh|s=褂裙|first=t|j=gwaa3 kwan4}}),<ref name=":2">{{Cite thesis|last=Li|first=Yuling|date=2019|title=New meaning in traditional wedding dresses – Xiu He Fu and Long Feng Gua – in contemporary China [Master's Thesis]|url=http://studentsrepo.um.edu.my/id/eprint/11386|journal=Cultural Centre, University of Malaya|pages=i-102|type=masters }}</ref> is one type of two-piece ceremonial [[Traditional Chinese marriage|traditional Chinese wedding]] set of attire, which is composed of a jacket called {{Transliteration|zh|gua}} ({{Lang-zh|c=褂|labels=no}}) and of a long Chinese skirt called {{Transliteration|zh|[[qun]]}} ({{Lang-zh|c=裙|labels=no}}). The ''{{Transliteration|zh|qungua}}'' is a type of [[Hanfu]] worn by [[Han Chinese]] brides<ref name=":6">{{Cite journal|last1=Qiao|first1=Nan|last2=Tan|first2=Yan-rong|date=2017|title=Talk About the Chinese Wedding Dress of Modern Women|url=https://www.dpi-proceedings.com/index.php/dtssehs/article/view/18048/17554|journal=2017 3rd International Conference on Social, Education and Management Engineering (SEME 2017)|pages=299–301}}</ref> and originated in the 18th century during the Qing dynasty.<ref name=":0" /> It eventually became the traditional wedding attire of [[Cantonese people|Cantonese]] brides in the [[Guangdong]] regions.<ref name=":2" /><ref name=":3">{{Cite web|date=2016-01-28|title=Chinese Wedding Traditions: Qun Gua {{!}} Hong Kong Wedding Blog|url=https://brideandbreakfast.hk/2016/01/28/chinese-wedding-traditions-qun-gua/|access-date=2021-06-04|language=en-US}}</ref> It is traditionally handmade and is decorated with dragons and phoenixes embroideries.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Technique of Making Hong Kong Cheongsam and Kwan Kwa Wedding Costume - Home |url=https://www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/ICHO/en_US/web/icho/representative_list_cheongsam_kwan_kwa.html |access-date=2022-08-17 |website=www.lcsd.gov.hk}}</ref> Nowadays, the ''{{Transliteration|zh|qungua}}'' is still popular as a wedding dress in [[China]], including in [[Hong Kong]] and [[Macau]].<ref name=":0" />


== Tradition ==
== Origins and tradition ==
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[[File:Wedding_costume_in_midi_(dense_embroidery)_style,_view_1,_with_dragon-and-phoenix_patterns_-_Hong_Kong_Museum_of_History_-_DSC00951.JPG|thumb|249x249px|A ''{{Transliteration|zh|qungua}}'' found in [[Hong Kong Museum of History]].|left]]
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Back in [[Ming dynasty]], the women wedding dress worn by nobles and commoners was known as ''[[fengguan]] [[xiapei]]'' ({{Lang-zh|s=凤冠霞帔}}).<ref name=":2" /> The wedding dress worn in Ming dynasty continued to influence the wedding dress of the later centuries.<ref name=":2" />
[[File:A Self-portrait of A Hong Kong Bride Wearing A Qungua, A Traditional Chinese Wedding Attire, Before Her Wedding in The 1960s.jpg|thumb|A Self-portrait of a Hong Kong bride wearing a Qungua, a traditional Chinese wedding attire, before her wedding in the 1960s]]
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Back in [[Ming dynasty]], the women wedding dress worn by nobles and commoners was known as ''{{Transliteration|zh|[[fengguan xiapei]]}}'' ({{Lang-zh|t=鳳冠霞帔|s=凤冠霞帔|first=t}}) composed of the ''{{Transliteration|zh|[[fengguan]]}}'' and ''{{Transliteration|zh|[[xiapei]]}}''.<ref name=":2" /> The wedding dress worn in Ming dynasty continued to influence the wedding dress of the later centuries.<ref name=":2" />


What is known as ''qungua'' started to be worn in the 18th century during the [[Qing dynasty]].<ref name=":0" /> The ''qungua'' originated in [[Guangdong]] when ''Liang Zhu,'' a Guangdong [[Qing dynasty]] politician, was rewarded with a silk wedding dress embroidered with dragons and phoenixes by the Qing Emperor at the time of his daughter's wedding.<ref name=":4" /> This led to the use ''qungua'' in the Guangdong area.<ref name=":4" />
What is known as ''{{Transliteration|zh|qungua}}'' only started to be worn in the 18th century during the [[Qing dynasty]].<ref name=":0" /> The ''{{Transliteration|zh|qungua}}'' originated in [[Guangdong]] when Liang Zhu'','' a Guangdong [[Qing dynasty]] politician, was rewarded with a silk wedding dress embroidered with dragons and phoenixes by the Qing Emperor at the time of his daughter's wedding.<ref name=":4" /> This led to the use ''{{Transliteration|zh|qungua}}'' in the Guangdong area.<ref name=":4" />


In 18th century, Chinese mothers would start to sew the qungua as soon as a daughter was born in the family.<ref name=":0" /> The ''qungua'' would then be placed as a part of the daughter's bride dowry when she gets married.<ref name=":0" /> The qungua follows the ancient traditional system of [[Ruqun|shangyi xiashang]] ({{Lang-zh|s=上衣下裳}}; upper and lower garment).<ref name=":2" />
In 18th century, Chinese mothers would start to sew the ''{{Transliteration|zh|qungua}}'' as soon as a daughter was born in the family.<ref name=":0" /> The ''{{Transliteration|zh|qungua}}'' would then be placed as a part of the daughter's bride dowry when she gets married.<ref name=":0" /> The ''{{Transliteration|zh|qungua}}'' follows the ancient traditional system of ''{{Transliteration|zh|[[ruqun|shangyi xiachang]]}}'' ({{Lang-zh|s=上衣下裳}}; upper and lower garment).<ref name=":2" />


== Construction and Design ==
== Construction and Design ==
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The ''{{Transliteration|zh|qungua}}'' is composed of two separate garments: a {{Transliteration|zh|gua}} ({{Lang-zh|c=褂|labels=|j=gwaa3|p=guà|l=coat}}), which is a Chinese jacket which closes at the front with buttons,<ref name=":6" /> and a {{Transliteration|zh|[[qun]]}} ({{Lang-zh|c=裙|p=qún|j=kwan4|l=[[skirt]]}}).<ref name=":1" /> The ''{{Transliteration|zh|qun}}'' worn in the ''{{Transliteration|zh|qungua}}'' is typically straight in cut.<ref name=":1" /> The skirt could be pleated.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Chinese Wedding Gown (Qun Gua)|url=https://collections.qm.qld.gov.au/objects/CH61199/chinese-wedding-gown-qun-gua|access-date=2021-06-04|website=Queensland Museum Collections Online|language=en}}</ref>
The qungua is composed of:


* ''Gua'' (Mandarin), ''gwaa3'' (Cantonese) (褂): A Chinese jacket which closes at the front with buttons,<ref name=":6" />
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* ''Qun'' (Mandarin), ''kwan4'' (Cantonese) (裙): a generic term of skirt; the ''qun'' worn with the ''qungua'' is a long skirt which is typically straight in cut.<ref name=":1" /> The skirt could be pleated.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Chinese Wedding Gown (Qun Gua)|url=https://collections.qm.qld.gov.au/objects/CH61199/chinese-wedding-gown-qun-gua|access-date=2021-06-04|website=Queensland Museum Collections Online|language=en}}</ref>
=== Colour ===
=== Colour ===
While [[Wedding dress|Western wedding dress]] tends to be white in colour, Chinese traditional wedding clothing favours the use of red and gold colour.<ref name=":0" />
While [[Wedding dress|Western wedding dress]] tends to be white in colour, Chinese traditional wedding clothing favours the use of red and gold colour.<ref name=":0" />


The jacket ''gua'' was originally black in colour while the skirt was originally red in colour.<ref name=":3" />
The ''{{Transliteration|zh|gua}}'' was originally black in colour while the skirt was originally red in colour.<ref name=":3" />


The gua which is completely red in colour only appeared in the 1960s.<ref name=":3" /> Since then the traditional black ''gua'' and red ''qun'' started to be used for the bride's mother instead of being worn by the brides themselves.<ref name=":3" /><ref name=":2" /><gallery>
The {{Transliteration|zh|gua}} which is completely red in colour only appeared in the 1960s.<ref name=":3" /> Since then the traditional black {{Transliteration|zh|gua}} and red ''{{Transliteration|zh|qun}}'' started to be used for the bride's mother instead of being worn by the brides themselves.<ref name=":3" /><ref name=":2" /><gallery>
File:Thomas Child, Bride and Groom.jpg|Bride wearing Qing dynasty ''qungua''.
File:Thomas Child, Bride and Groom.jpg|Bride wearing Qing dynasty ''qungua''.
File:Old Chinese wedding dresses.jpg|''Qungua'' (left) worn by Chinese brides, 1900s.
File:Old Chinese wedding dresses.jpg|''Qungua'' (left) worn by Chinese brides, 1900s.
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=== Embroidery ===
=== Embroidery ===
{{See also|Chinese auspicious ornaments in textile and clothing}}
The qungua is typically embroidered with ''long (''龙) dragons and phoenix ''feng'' (凤).<ref name=":2" /> It can also be decorated with other auspicious symbols, such as pomegranate (symbolism for fertility), peony flowers, lotus flowers, bats, goldfish, butterfly and birds.<ref name=":3" />
The ''{{Transliteration|zh|qungua}}'' is typically embroidered with the Chinese dragons called ''{{Transliteration|zh|[[Chinese dragon|long]]}}'' ({{Lang-zh|s=龙|t=龍|first=t}}) and the Chinese phoenix called ''{{Transliteration|zh|[[fenghuang|feng]]}}'' ({{Lang-zh|s=凤|t=鳳|first=t}}).<ref name=":2" /> It can also be decorated with other auspicious symbols, such as pomegranate (symbolism for fertility), peony flowers, lotus flowers, bats, goldfish, butterfly and birds.<ref name=":3" />


Nowadays, there are 5 different types of qungua which is named accordingly to the percentage of embroidery covering the dress:<ref name=":0" />
Nowadays, there are 5 different types of ''{{Transliteration|zh|qungua}}'' which is named accordingly to the percentage of embroidery covering the dress:<ref name=":0" />


# '''Xiao wu fu (小五福):''' 30% covered with embroidery,
# '''''{{Transliteration|zh|Xiaowufu}}''''' ({{Lang-zh|labels=no|c=小五福}}): 30% covered with embroidery,
# '''Zhong wu fu (中五福):''' 50% covered with embroidery
# '''''{{Transliteration|zh|Zhongwufu}}''''' ({{Lang-zh|labels=no|c=中五福}}): 50% covered with embroidery
# '''Da Wu fu (大五福):''' 70% covered with embroidery
# '''''{{Transliteration|zh|Dawufu}}''''' ({{Lang-zh|labels=no|c=大五福}}): 70% covered with embroidery
# '''Gua Hou (褂后):''' 90% covered with embroidery
# '''''{{Transliteration|zh|Guahou}}''''' ({{Lang-zh|labels=no|c=褂后}}): 90% covered with embroidery
# '''Gua Huang (褂皇):''' 100% covered with embroidery
# '''''{{Transliteration|zh|Guahuang}}''''' ({{Lang-zh|labels=no|c=褂皇}}): 100% covered with embroidery

== Derivatives and influences ==

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=== Betawi Bridal dress ===
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The [[Betawi people|Betawi]] bridal dress, partly influenced by [[Chinese culture]] and by [[Culture of Indonesia|Indonesian culture]], looks similar to the Chinese ''{{Transliteration|zh|qungua}}''.<ref name=":4">{{Cite book|title=Indonesia-Taiwan Relations: Searching for Better Understanding|publisher=Penerbit Andi|others=Prof. Dr. Tirta Nugraha Mursitama, Ph.D., Dr. Shidarta, M.Hum., Dr. Yi Ying, M.Lit., M.Pd.|year=2021|isbn=9786230112744|pages=52–63}}</ref> Like the ''{{Transliteration|zh|qungua}}'', the Betawi bridal dress is a two-piece set of attire which composed of an ankle-length with wider bottom skirt called ''kun'' and an upper garment called ''tuaki''.<ref name=":4" /> The ''tuaki'' is decorated with [[Chinese auspicious ornaments in textile and clothing|Chinese auspicious symbols]].<ref name=":4" /> One difference from the ''qungua'' is the use of ''Betawi Lotus'', also known as ''Betawi pomegranate'', a separate ornamental garment which covers the chest and shoulder areas (similar to the ''{{Transliteration|zh|[[yunjian]]}}'' of the Chinese people).<ref name=":4" /> The ''Betawi'' ''lotus'' was used to denote the origins of the Betawi bride, but it was eventually replaced by beads which typically follows the Spanish cherry floral pattern.<ref name=":4" /> The kun and tuaki must match in colour.<ref name=":4" /><gallery>
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File:Chinese Bride in Batavia WDL2912.jpg|Chinese Bride in Batavia in her wedding dress, 1870. The dress is heavily influenced by Chinese culture but also shows subtle differences.
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File:Betawi wedding.jpg|[[Betawi people|Betawi]] bride and groom, 2008.
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</gallery>


== Differences with other garments ==
== Differences with other garments ==
{{Main|Traditional Chinese wedding dress}}


=== Chinese garments ===
=== Fengguan xiapei ===
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The ''{{Transliteration|zh|qungua}}'' is different from the ''{{Transliteration|zh|[[fengguan xiapei]]}}'' ({{Lang-zh|t=鳳冠霞帔|s=凤冠霞帔|first=t}}), another type of Traditional [[Han Chinese]] wedding set of attire, which was worn in [[Ming dynasty|Ming]] and [[Qing dynasty|Qing]] dynasties<ref name=":2" /> in terms of composition of garments and accessories which the qungua lacks of. The ''{{Transliteration|zh|fengguan xiapei}}'' is a set of attire which was composed of red ''{{Transliteration|zh|[[mangfu|mang ao]]}}'' ({{Lang-zh|t=蟒襖|s=蟒袄|first=t|l=python jacket}}), which is a type of Ming dynasty-style [[Yuanlingshan|round-collar robe]] decorated with dragons, which was worn by Han Chinese women as a court robe; a ''{{Transliteration|zh|[[xiapei]]}}'' ({{Lang-zh|s=霞帔}}), which is a type of long scarf in Ming and a type of stole in Qing dynasty; a ''{{Transliteration|zh|[[mangfu|mangchu]]}}'' ({{Lang-zh|l=Python skirt|c=蟒裙}}), which is a skirt which can be red or green and is embroidered with [[Chinese dragon|dragons]] and [[Fenghuang|phoenixes]] on the front and back skirt lapels), and the ''{{Transliteration|zh|[[fengguan]]}}'', the phoenix coronet.<ref name=":5">{{Cite book |last=Garrett |first=Valery M. |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/154701513 |title=Chinese dress : from the Qing Dynasty to the Present |date=2007 |publisher=Tuttle Pub |isbn=978-0-8048-3663-0 |location=Tokyo |oclc=154701513}}</ref> The Wedding attire is sometimes decorated with Chinese cloud collar known as ''{{Transliteration|zh|[[yunjian]]}}''.<ref name=":5" /> <gallery>

==== Fengguan xiapei ====
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The ''fengguan xiapei'' ({{Lang-zh|s=凤冠霞帔}}) is another type of Traditional [[Han Chinese]] wedding set of attire which was worn in [[Ming dynasty|Ming]] and [[Qing dynasty|Qing]] dynasties.<ref name=":2" /> The attire is composed of a red ''mangao'' ({{Lang-zh|s=蟒袄|l=Dragon jacket}}: a type of Ming dynasty-style [[Yuanlingshan|round-collar robe]] decorated with dragons, which was worn by Han Chinese women as a court robe), a [[xiapei]] ({{Lang-zh|s=霞帔}}; a type of long scarf in Ming and a type of stole in Qing), a ''mang chu'' ({{Lang-zh|l=Dragon skirt}}; a skirt which can be red or green and is embroidered with dragons and phoenixes on the front and back skirt lapels), and a [[Fengguan|phoenix coronet]].<ref name=":5">{{Cite book|last=Garrett|first=Valery M.|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/154701513|title=Chinese dress : from the Qing Dynasty to the Present|date=2007|publisher=Tuttle Pub|isbn=978-0-8048-3663-0|location=Tokyo|oclc=154701513}}</ref> The Wedding attire is sometimes decorated with [[Cloud collar|Chinese cloud collar]].<ref name=":5" /> Following the wedding, married women were expected to wear the ''fengguan xiapei'' on formal occasions, however, trousers or leggings were worn beneath instead of the skirt.<ref name=":5" /><gallery>
File:五品官員夫婦像.jpg|Ming dynasty ''fengguan xiapei.''
File:Traditional chinese wedding.jpg|Reconstruction of Ming dynasty ''fengguan xiapei.''
File:Traditional chinese wedding 001.jpg|Reconstruction of Ming dynasty ''fengguan xiapei.''
File:Qing Dynasty Lady in a red robe.jpg|Portrait of lady in ''fengguan xiapei'' in Qing dynasty,
File:Qing Dynasty Lady in a red robe.jpg|Portrait of lady in ''fengguan xiapei'' in Qing dynasty,
File:七十一代衍聖公 元配陳夫人衣冠像.jpg|Qing dynasty ''fengguan xiapei'' (凤冠霞帔), a [[Cloud collar|yunjian]] is on top of the attire.
File:七十一代衍聖公 元配陳夫人衣冠像.jpg|Qing dynasty ''fengguan xiapei'' (凤冠霞帔), a [[Cloud collar|yunjian]] is on top of the attire.
</gallery>
</gallery>


==== Xiu he fu ====
=== Xiuhefu ===
The ''qungua'' is distinct from another Chinese wedding set of attire called '''''xiu he fu''''' ({{Lang-zh|t=繡和服|s=秀禾服}}).<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":1" /> The ''xiu he fu'' also originated in the [[Qing dynasty]] and was worn as another type of Qing dynasty wedding dress; it was a type of ''[[Ruqun|aoqun]]'' which was worn as a wedding dress.<ref name=":2" />
The ''{{Transliteration|zh|qungua}}'' is distinct from another Chinese wedding set of attire called ''{{Transliteration|zh|[[Xiuhefu]]}}'' ({{Lang-zh|s=秀禾服}}).<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":1" /> The ''{{Transliteration|zh|Xiuhefu}}'' typically has an overlapping jacket which closes to the right side (instead of the ''{{Transliteration|zh|qungua}}'' central closing jacket) which is worn with an A-line skirt (''{{Transliteration|zh|qun}})'' which looks similar to a ''{{Transliteration|zh|[[mamianqun]]}}'' instead of a straight cut skirt.<ref name=":1" /> The ''{{Transliteration|zh|Xiuhefu}}'' is typically embroidered with flowers and birds to symbolize love for whole seasons.<ref name=":2" /><gallery mode="packed">
File:A bride in Xiuhe dress between Taihedian and Zhonghedian (20220218120518).jpg|A bride in ''{{Transliteration|zh|Xiuhefu}}'' between Taihedian and Zhonghedian, 2022

File:A bride in Xiuhe dress near Xiehemen (20220218110303).jpg|A bride in ''{{Transliteration|zh|Xiuhefu}}'' near Xiehemen, 2022
The Qing dynasty wedding ''aoqun'' became popular in 2001 when the actress ''Xiu He'' wore a modern recreation version of it in the Chinese TV series [[:zh:橘子紅了_(電視劇)|"Orange turned red"]] and thus gained its contemporary name.<ref name=":2" /><ref>{{Cite web|title=Xiu He Fu {{!}} Traditional Chinese Wedding Costume|url=https://www.jinweddings.com/xiu-he-fu|access-date=2021-06-05|website=Jin Weddings|language=en}}</ref>

The ''xiu he fu'' has a overlapping jacket which closes to the right side (instead of the ''qungua'' central closing jacket) which is worn with an A-line skirt (''qun)'' which looks similar to a [[mamianqun]] instead of a straight cut skirt.<ref name=":1" /> The ''xiu he fu'' is typically embroidered with flowers and birds to symbolize love for whole seasons.<ref name=":2" /><gallery>
File:Woman's wedding costume from China, Honolulu Museum of Art 10128.1.JPG|[[Qing dynasty]] ''Xiu he fu'', a form of [[Ruqun|aoqun]] worn for wedding.
File:A BRIDE.jpg|A Chinese bride wearing a wedding aoqun, Qing dynasty.
</gallery>
</gallery>


==== Cheongsam ====
=== Cheongsam ===
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[[File:Traditional Chinese wedding ceremony.jpg|thumb|Chinese bride wearing [[cheongsam]] with a [[honggaitou]] covering her face for wedding ceremony.]]
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The ''qungua'' is different from the [[cheongsam]] which can also be worn as a Traditional Chinese wedding dress.<ref name=":2" /> The ''qungua'' is a two-piece garment composed of jacket and skirts while the modern cheongsam is currently a one-piece robe.<ref name=":6" /> Prior to the 1930s and the 1940s, the cheongsam was also a two-piece set of garment which was composed of a long robe and was worn with a pair of trousers.<ref name=":6" /><gallery>
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File:Traditional Chinese wedding ceremony.jpg|Chinese bride wearing [[cheongsam]] for wedding ceremony.
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</gallery>


⚫
The ''{{Transliteration|zh|qungua}}'' is different from the [[cheongsam]] which can also be worn as a Traditional Chinese wedding dress.<ref name=":2" /> The ''{{Transliteration|zh|qungua}}'' is a two-piece garment composed of jacket and skirts while the modern cheongsam is currently a one-piece robe.<ref name=":6" /> Prior to the 1930s and the 1940s, the cheongsam was also a two-piece set of garment which was composed of a long robe and was worn with a pair of trousers.<ref name=":6" />
=== Non-Chinese garments ===
{{Clear}}
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==== Betawi Bridal dress ====
⚫
The [[Betawi people|Betawi]] bridal dress, partly influenced by [[Chinese culture]] and by [[Culture of Indonesia|Indonesian culture]], looks similar to the Chinese ''qungua''.<ref name=":4">{{Cite book|title=Indonesia-Taiwan Relations: Searching for Better Understanding|publisher=Penerbit Andi|others=Prof. Dr. Tirta Nugraha Mursitama, Ph.D., Dr. Shidarta, M.Hum., Dr. Yi Ying, M.Lit., M.Pd.|year=2021|isbn=9786230112744|pages=52-63}}</ref> Like the ''qungua'', the Betawi bridal dress is a two-piece set of attire which composed of an ankle-length with wider bottom skirt called ''kun'' and an upper garment called ''tuaki''.<ref name=":4" /> The ''tuaki'' is decorated with Chinese auspicious symbols.<ref name=":4" /> One difference from the ''qungua'' is the use of ''Betawi Lotus'', also known as ''Betawi pomegranate'', a separate ornamental garment which covers the chest and shoulder areas (similar to the [[Cloud collar|Chinese cloud collar]]).<ref name=":4" /> The ''Betawi'' ''lotus'' was used to denote the origins of the Betawi bride, but it was eventually replaced by beads which typically follows the Spanish cherry floral pattern.<ref name=":4" /> The kun and tuaki must match in colour.<ref name=":4" /><gallery>
⚫
File:Chinese Bride in Batavia WDL2912.jpg|Chinese Bride in Batavia in her wedding dress, 1870. The dress is heavily influenced by Chinese culture but also shows subtle differences.
⚫
File:Betawi wedding.jpg|[[Betawi people|Betawi]] bride and groom, 2008.
</gallery>


== See also ==
== See also ==


* [[Traditional Chinese wedding dress]]
* [[Fengguan]]
* [[Fengguan]]
*[[Hanfu]]
*[[Hanfu]]
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[[Category:Chinese traditional clothing]]
[[Category:Chinese traditional clothing]]
[[Category:Marriage in Chinese culture]]
[[Category:Marriage in Chinese culture]]
[[Category:Wedding dresses]]

[[Category:Chinese embroidery]]
{{clothing-stub}}
{{china-stub}}

Latest revision as of 08:07, 29 November 2024

Qungua
HK 太子 Prince Edward 彌敦道 747 Nathan Road 金都商場 Golden Plaza December 2020 SS2 12
Qungua in Hong Kong, 2020
Chinese裙褂
Literal meaningSkirt jacket
Transcriptions
Standard Mandarin
Hanyu PinyinQúnguà
Wade–GilesCh'ün2-kwa4
Yue: Cantonese
JyutpingKwan4 gwaa3
Longfenggua
Traditional Chinese龍鳳褂
Simplified Chinese龙凤褂
Transcriptions
Standard Mandarin
Hanyu PinyinLóngfèngguà
Wade–GilesLung2-feng4-kua4
Yue: Cantonese
Jyutpinglung4 fung6 gwaa3
Longfeng qungua
Traditional Chinese龍鳳裙褂
Simplified Chinese龙凤裙褂
Transcriptions
Standard Mandarin
Hanyu PinyinLóngfèng qúnguà
Wade–GilesLung2-feng4-ch'ün2-kua4
Yue: Cantonese
Jyutpinglung4 fung6 Kwan4 gwaa3
Guaqun
Chinese褂裙
Transcriptions
Standard Mandarin
Hanyu PinyinGuàqún
Wade–GilesKua4-Ch'ün2
Yue: Cantonese
Jyutpinggwaa3 kwan4

Qungua (Chinese: 裙褂; Jyutping: kwan4 gwaa3), also known as longfenggua (traditional Chinese: 龍鳳褂; simplified Chinese: 龙凤褂),[1] or longfeng qungua (traditional Chinese: 龍鳳裙褂; simplified Chinese: 龙凤裙褂),[2] or guaqun (Chinese: 褂裙; Jyutping: gwaa3 kwan4),[3] is one type of two-piece ceremonial traditional Chinese wedding set of attire, which is composed of a jacket called gua (褂) and of a long Chinese skirt called qun (裙). The qungua is a type of Hanfu worn by Han Chinese brides[4] and originated in the 18th century during the Qing dynasty.[1] It eventually became the traditional wedding attire of Cantonese brides in the Guangdong regions.[3][5] It is traditionally handmade and is decorated with dragons and phoenixes embroideries.[6] Nowadays, the qungua is still popular as a wedding dress in China, including in Hong Kong and Macau.[1]

Origins and tradition

[edit]
A qungua found in Hong Kong Museum of History.
A Self-portrait of a Hong Kong bride wearing a Qungua, a traditional Chinese wedding attire, before her wedding in the 1960s

Back in Ming dynasty, the women wedding dress worn by nobles and commoners was known as fengguan xiapei (traditional Chinese: 鳳冠霞帔; simplified Chinese: 凤冠霞帔) composed of the fengguan and xiapei.[3] The wedding dress worn in Ming dynasty continued to influence the wedding dress of the later centuries.[3]

What is known as qungua only started to be worn in the 18th century during the Qing dynasty.[1] The qungua originated in Guangdong when Liang Zhu, a Guangdong Qing dynasty politician, was rewarded with a silk wedding dress embroidered with dragons and phoenixes by the Qing Emperor at the time of his daughter's wedding.[7] This led to the use qungua in the Guangdong area.[7]

In 18th century, Chinese mothers would start to sew the qungua as soon as a daughter was born in the family.[1] The qungua would then be placed as a part of the daughter's bride dowry when she gets married.[1] The qungua follows the ancient traditional system of shangyi xiachang (Chinese: 上衣下裳; upper and lower garment).[3]

Construction and Design

[edit]

The qungua is composed of two separate garments: a gua (Chinese: 褂; pinyin: guà; Jyutping: gwaa3; lit. 'coat'), which is a Chinese jacket which closes at the front with buttons,[4] and a qun (Chinese: 裙; pinyin: qún; Jyutping: kwan4; lit. 'skirt').[2] The qun worn in the qungua is typically straight in cut.[2] The skirt could be pleated.[8]

Colour

[edit]

While Western wedding dress tends to be white in colour, Chinese traditional wedding clothing favours the use of red and gold colour.[1]

The gua was originally black in colour while the skirt was originally red in colour.[5]

The gua which is completely red in colour only appeared in the 1960s.[5] Since then the traditional black gua and red qun started to be used for the bride's mother instead of being worn by the brides themselves.[5][3]

  • Bride wearing Qing dynasty qungua.
    Bride wearing Qing dynasty qungua.
  • Qungua (left) worn by Chinese brides, 1900s.
    Qungua (left) worn by Chinese brides, 1900s.
  • Qungua is a two-piece garment attire: black gua and red qun.
    Qungua is a two-piece garment attire: black gua and red qun.
  • Long skirt qun
    Long skirt qun
  • Red gua
    Red gua
  • Construction of a black gua jacket.
    Construction of a black gua jacket.
  • Black gua
    Black gua

Embroidery

[edit]
See also: Chinese auspicious ornaments in textile and clothing

The qungua is typically embroidered with the Chinese dragons called long (traditional Chinese: 龍; simplified Chinese: 龙) and the Chinese phoenix called feng (traditional Chinese: 鳳; simplified Chinese: 凤).[3] It can also be decorated with other auspicious symbols, such as pomegranate (symbolism for fertility), peony flowers, lotus flowers, bats, goldfish, butterfly and birds.[5]

Nowadays, there are 5 different types of qungua which is named accordingly to the percentage of embroidery covering the dress:[1]

  1. Xiaowufu (小五福): 30% covered with embroidery,
  2. Zhongwufu (中五福): 50% covered with embroidery
  3. Dawufu (大五福): 70% covered with embroidery
  4. Guahou (褂后): 90% covered with embroidery
  5. Guahuang (褂皇): 100% covered with embroidery

Derivatives and influences

[edit]

Betawi Bridal dress

[edit]

The Betawi bridal dress, partly influenced by Chinese culture and by Indonesian culture, looks similar to the Chinese qungua.[7] Like the qungua, the Betawi bridal dress is a two-piece set of attire which composed of an ankle-length with wider bottom skirt called kun and an upper garment called tuaki.[7] The tuaki is decorated with Chinese auspicious symbols.[7] One difference from the qungua is the use of Betawi Lotus, also known as Betawi pomegranate, a separate ornamental garment which covers the chest and shoulder areas (similar to the yunjian of the Chinese people).[7] The Betawi lotus was used to denote the origins of the Betawi bride, but it was eventually replaced by beads which typically follows the Spanish cherry floral pattern.[7] The kun and tuaki must match in colour.[7]

  • Chinese Bride in Batavia in her wedding dress, 1870. The dress is heavily influenced by Chinese culture but also shows subtle differences.
    Chinese Bride in Batavia in her wedding dress, 1870. The dress is heavily influenced by Chinese culture but also shows subtle differences.
  • Betawi bride and groom, 2008.
    Betawi bride and groom, 2008.

Differences with other garments

[edit]
Main article: Traditional Chinese wedding dress

Fengguan xiapei

[edit]

The qungua is different from the fengguan xiapei (traditional Chinese: 鳳冠霞帔; simplified Chinese: 凤冠霞帔), another type of Traditional Han Chinese wedding set of attire, which was worn in Ming and Qing dynasties[3] in terms of composition of garments and accessories which the qungua lacks of. The fengguan xiapei is a set of attire which was composed of red mang ao (traditional Chinese: 蟒襖; simplified Chinese: 蟒袄; lit. 'python jacket'), which is a type of Ming dynasty-style round-collar robe decorated with dragons, which was worn by Han Chinese women as a court robe; a xiapei (Chinese: 霞帔), which is a type of long scarf in Ming and a type of stole in Qing dynasty; a mangchu (Chinese: 蟒裙; lit. 'Python skirt'), which is a skirt which can be red or green and is embroidered with dragons and phoenixes on the front and back skirt lapels), and the fengguan, the phoenix coronet.[9] The Wedding attire is sometimes decorated with Chinese cloud collar known as yunjian.[9]

  • Portrait of lady in fengguan xiapei in Qing dynasty,
    Portrait of lady in fengguan xiapei in Qing dynasty,
  • Qing dynasty fengguan xiapei (凤冠霞帔), a yunjian is on top of the attire.
    Qing dynasty fengguan xiapei (凤冠霞帔), a yunjian is on top of the attire.

Xiuhefu

[edit]

The qungua is distinct from another Chinese wedding set of attire called Xiuhefu (Chinese: 秀禾服).[1][2] The Xiuhefu typically has an overlapping jacket which closes to the right side (instead of the qungua central closing jacket) which is worn with an A-line skirt (qun) which looks similar to a mamianqun instead of a straight cut skirt.[2] The Xiuhefu is typically embroidered with flowers and birds to symbolize love for whole seasons.[3]

  • A bride in Xiuhefu between Taihedian and Zhonghedian, 2022
    A bride in Xiuhefu between Taihedian and Zhonghedian, 2022
  • A bride in Xiuhefu near Xiehemen, 2022
    A bride in Xiuhefu near Xiehemen, 2022

Cheongsam

[edit]
Chinese bride wearing cheongsam with a honggaitou covering her face for wedding ceremony.

The qungua is different from the cheongsam which can also be worn as a Traditional Chinese wedding dress.[3] The qungua is a two-piece garment composed of jacket and skirts while the modern cheongsam is currently a one-piece robe.[4] Prior to the 1930s and the 1940s, the cheongsam was also a two-piece set of garment which was composed of a long robe and was worn with a pair of trousers.[4]

See also

[edit]

References

[edit]
  1. ^ a b c d e f g h i "To Have And To Embroider: The "Long Feng Gua" Wedding Tradition | US-China Institute". china.usc.edu. Retrieved 2021-06-04.
  2. ^ a b c d e JNTT (2020-07-30). "SAME SAME BUT DIFFERENT". The Red Wedding. Retrieved 2021-06-04.
  3. ^ a b c d e f g h i j Li, Yuling (2019). New meaning in traditional wedding dresses – Xiu He Fu and Long Feng Gua – in contemporary China [Master's Thesis]. Cultural Centre, University of Malaya (masters). pp. i-102.
  4. ^ a b c d Qiao, Nan; Tan, Yan-rong (2017). "Talk About the Chinese Wedding Dress of Modern Women". 2017 3rd International Conference on Social, Education and Management Engineering (SEME 2017): 299–301.
  5. ^ a b c d e "Chinese Wedding Traditions: Qun Gua | Hong Kong Wedding Blog". 2016-01-28. Retrieved 2021-06-04.
  6. ^ "Technique of Making Hong Kong Cheongsam and Kwan Kwa Wedding Costume - Home". www.lcsd.gov.hk. Retrieved 2022-08-17.
  7. ^ a b c d e f g h Indonesia-Taiwan Relations: Searching for Better Understanding. Prof. Dr. Tirta Nugraha Mursitama, Ph.D., Dr. Shidarta, M.Hum., Dr. Yi Ying, M.Lit., M.Pd. Penerbit Andi. 2021. pp. 52–63. ISBN 9786230112744.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
  8. ^ "Chinese Wedding Gown (Qun Gua)". Queensland Museum Collections Online. Retrieved 2021-06-04.
  9. ^ a b Garrett, Valery M. (2007). Chinese dress : from the Qing Dynasty to the Present. Tokyo: Tuttle Pub. ISBN 978-0-8048-3663-0. OCLC 154701513.
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