Anna Wintour: Difference between revisions
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{{Short description|British and American media executive (born 1949)}} |
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{{Infobox_Person |
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{{for|the song|Anna Wintour (song)}} |
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{{Use British English|date=January 2013}} |
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| residence = [[New York City]] |
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{{Use dmy dates|date=November 2022}} |
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| other_names = |
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{{good article}} |
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| image = Anna Wintour.jpg |
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{{Infobox person |
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| imagesize = 250px |
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| honorific_prefix = |
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| caption = Wintour during [[Fashion Week]] 2005, wearing her trademark [[sunglasses]]. |
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| name = Dame Anna Wintour |
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| birth_date = {{birth date and age|1949|11|3}} |
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| honorific_suffix = {{postnominals|country=GBR|size=100%|CH|DBE}} |
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| birth_place = {{Flagicon|UK}}[[London]], [[England]] |
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| image = Anna Wintour in 2024 (cropped).jpg |
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| birth_name = |
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| caption = Wintour in 2024 |
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| death_date = |
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| birth_date = {{birth date and age|df=yes|1949|11|3}} |
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| death_place = |
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| birth_place = [[London]], England<!-- No country link. --> |
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| death_cause |
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| party = [[Democratic Party (United States)|Democratic]] |
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| known = |
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| citizenship = {{plainlist| |
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| occupation = [[Editor]] |
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* United Kingdom |
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| title = Editor-in-chief, American ''[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]'' |
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* United States |
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| salary = $5 million (reportedly) |
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| term = |
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| predecessor = [[Grace Mirabella]] |
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| successor = |
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| party = |
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| boards = [[Metropolitan Museum of Art]] |
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| religion = |
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| spouse = [[David Shaffer]] (1984-1999) |
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| children = Charles and Katherine |
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| relations = |
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| website = |
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| footnotes = |
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| employer = [[Condé Nast Publications]] |
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| height = |
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| weight = |
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}} |
}} |
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| education = {{plainlist| |
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'''Anna Wintour''' (born [[November 3]], [[1949]]) is the [[Editing|Editor]]-in-Chief of the [[U.S.]] edition of ''[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]'', a position she has held since 1988. A native [[London]]er of [[English people|English]] and [[America]]n parentage, she became interested in [[fashion]] as a teenager and advised her father Charles, editor of the ''[[Evening Standard]]'', on how to better make the [[newspaper]] appealing to the youth of mid-1960s [[Britain]]. After dropping out of school at 16, she forsook college to start a career in journalism on both sides of the [[Atlantic Ocean|Atlantic]] that stopped at ''[[New York (magazine)|New York]]'' and ''[[Home & Garden]]'' before she took over at British ''Vogue'' and finally the flagship magazine in [[New York]]. She succeeded in turning around a faltering product and has been widely recognized in the publishing industry for her success. |
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* [[Queen's College, London]] |
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* [[North London Collegiate School]] |
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}} |
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| title = {{cslist|Editor-in-Chief, ''[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]''| Artistic Director, [[Condé Nast]]| Global [[Chief Content Officer]], [[Condé Nast]]| Global Editorial Director, [[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]] |semi=true}} |
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| years_active = 1975–present |
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| credits = {{cslist|Editorial Assistant, ''[[Harpers & Queen]]'', ''[[Harper's Bazaar]]''|Fashion Editor, ''[[Viva (American magazine)|Viva]]'', ''Savvy'', ''[[New York (magazine)|New York]]''|Creative Director, U.S. ''[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]''|Editor-in-Chief, British ''Vogue'' and ''[[House & Garden (magazine)|House & Garden]]'' |semi=true}} |
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| employer = [[Condé Nast]] |
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| known_for = |
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| predecessor = [[Grace Mirabella]] |
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| boards = [[Metropolitan Museum of Art]] |
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| spouse = {{plainlist| |
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* {{marriage|[[David Shaffer]] |1984|1999|end=div}} |
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* {{marriage|[[Shelby Bryan]] |2004|2020|end=div}} |
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}} |
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| children = 2 |
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| father = [[Charles Wintour]] |
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| mother = {{#ifexist:Eleanor Trego Baker|[[Eleanor Trego Baker]]}} |
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| relatives = {{plainlist| |
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* [[Patrick Wintour]] (brother) |
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* [[Francesco Carrozzini]] (son-in-law) |
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}} |
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| signature = Anna Wintour signature.png |
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'''Dame Anna Wintour''' ({{IPAc-en|ˈ|w|ɪ|n|t|ər}} {{respelling|WIN|tər}}; born 3 November 1949<ref>{{Cite web |url=https://en.vogue.fr/vogue-list/thevoguelist/anna-wintour/1008 |title=Anna Wintour |website=Vogue |language=en |access-date=1 November 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20181113165847/https://en.vogue.fr/vogue-list/thevoguelist/anna-wintour/1008 |archive-date=13 November 2018 |url-status=dead }}</ref>) is a British-American<ref>[https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/fash-track/obama-anna-wintour-ambassador-uk-397574 "Obama supporter Anna Wintour reportedly considered for ambassadorial post by administration"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180718001407/https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/fash-track/obama-anna-wintour-ambassador-uk-397574 |date=18 July 2018 }}, ''The Hollywood Reporter''. Retrieved 10 August 2016.</ref><ref>Chris Rovzar, [https://nymag.com/daily/intelligencer/2008/11/anna_wintour_rest_of_city_turn.html "Anna Wintour, Rest of City Turn Out to Vote"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180717212652/http://nymag.com/daily/intelligencer/2008/11/anna_wintour_rest_of_city_turn.html |date=17 July 2018 }}, ''New York'', November 2008. Retrieved 11 August 2016.</ref> media executive, who has been serving as [[editor-in-chief]] of ''[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]'' since 1988. Wintour has also served as global chief content officer of [[Condé Nast]] since 2020, where she oversees all Condé Nast publications worldwide, and concurrently serves as artistic director. Wintour is also global editorial director of ''Vogue''.<ref>{{Cite news|last=Lee|first=Edmund|date=15 December 2020|title=Condé Nast Puts Anna Wintour in Charge of Magazines Worldwide|language=en-US|work=The New York Times|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2020/12/15/business/media/conde-nast-anna-wintour.html|access-date=18 May 2021|issn=0362-4331|archive-date=27 September 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220927220524/https://www.nytimes.com/2020/12/15/business/media/conde-nast-anna-wintour.html|url-status=live}}</ref> With her trademark [[pageboy]] [[bob cut|bob haircut]] and dark sunglasses, Wintour is regarded as the most powerful woman in publishing, and has become an important figure in the fashion world, serving as the lead [[chairperson]] of the annual [[haute couture]] [[Met Gala]] global fashion spectacle in [[Manhattan]] since the 1990s. Wintour is praised for her skill in identifying emerging fashion trends, but has been criticised for her reportedly aloof and demanding personality. |
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Her father, [[Charles Wintour]], who was Editor of the London-based ''[[Evening Standard]]'' from 1959 to 1976, consulted with her on how to make the newspaper relevant to the youth of the era. She became interested in fashion as a teenager and her career in [[fashion journalism]] began at two British magazines. Later, she moved to the United States, with stints at ''[[New York (magazine)|New York]]'' and ''[[House & Garden (magazine)|House & Garden]]''. She returned to London and was the Editor of [[Vogue (British magazine)|British ''Vogue'']] between 1985 and 1987. A year later, she assumed control of the franchise's magazine in New York, reviving what many saw as a stagnating publication. Her use of the magazine to shape the [[fashion industry]] has been the subject of debate within it. [[Animal rights]] activists have attacked her for promoting fur, while other critics have charged her with using the magazine to promote elitist and unattainable views of femininity and beauty. |
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Like her predecessor [[Diana Vreeland]], she has become a fashion [[icon]] in her own right. Her [[bob cut|bob]] [[haircut]] and [[sunglasses]] have become a common sight in the front row of the most exclusive [[fashion show]]s. |
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A former personal assistant, [[Lauren Weisberger]], wrote the bestselling 2003 ''[[roman à clef]]'' ''[[The Devil Wears Prada (novel)|The Devil Wears Prada]]'', later made into a successful [[The Devil Wears Prada (film)|2006 film]] starring [[Meryl Streep]] as [[Miranda Priestly]], a fashion editor, believed to be based on Wintour. In 2009, Wintour's editorship of ''Vogue'' was the original focus of a documentary film, [[R. J. Cutler]]'s ''[[The September Issue]]''. The film's focus switched to the creative teams and more senior fashion editors as filming progressed.<ref>{{Cite web|date=1 October 2009|title='The September Issue' turns sharp focus to inner workings of Vogue|url=https://www.seattletimes.com/entertainment/movies/the-september-issue-turns-sharp-focus-to-inner-workings-of-vogue/|access-date=18 May 2021|website=The Seattle Times|language=en-US|archive-date=11 May 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220511085707/https://www.seattletimes.com/entertainment/movies/the-september-issue-turns-sharp-focus-to-inner-workings-of-vogue/|url-status=live}}</ref> |
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==Early life and education== |
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==Family== |
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Wintour was born in [[Hampstead]], London, to [[Charles Wintour]] (1917–1999), editor of the ''[[Evening Standard]]'', and Eleanor "Nonie" Trego Baker (1917–1995), an American and the daughter of a [[Harvard Law School]] professor.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.freebmd.org.uk/cgi/information.pl?cite=f%2B3mJfgFNtnE3pXq4VL9zg&scan=1|title=Index entry|access-date=31 December 2016|work=FreeBMD|publisher=ONS|archive-date=30 July 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210730195752/https://www.freebmd.org.uk/cgi/information.pl?cite=f%2B3mJfgFNtnE3pXq4VL9zg&scan=1|url-status=live}}</ref> Her parents were married in 1940 and divorced in 1979.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.freebmd.org.uk/cgi/information.pl?cite=uDgHQDyoficmcvX6toRpog&scan=1|title=Index entry|access-date=31 December 2016|work=FreeBMD|publisher=ONS|archive-date=30 July 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210730195801/https://www.freebmd.org.uk/cgi/information.pl?cite=uDgHQDyoficmcvX6toRpog&scan=1|url-status=live}}</ref> Wintour was named after her maternal grandmother, Anna Baker (née Gilkyson), a merchant's daughter from [[Pennsylvania]].<ref name="Oppenheimer2">Oppenheimer, [https://books.google.com/books?id=Wq3WpfuFc1oC&pg=PA2 2]. "Eleanor Baker, an American, met Wintour at Cambridge University in England in the fall of 1939 ... [Her mother], Anna Gilkyson Baker, for whom Anna Wintour was named, was a charming, matronly, somewhat ditzy society girl from Philadelphia's [[Philadelphia Main Line|Main Line]] ..."</ref> Audrey Slaughter, a magazine editor who founded publications including ''[[Honey (UK magazine)|Honey]]'' and ''Petticoat'', was her stepmother.<ref name="Oppenheimer99">Oppenheimer, 99. "...[H]er animosity intensif[ied] after her father married Slaughter."</ref><ref name="The Media in Britain">{{cite book|title=The Media in Britain|last=Tunstall|first=Jeremy|year=1983|publisher=Columbia University Press|isbn=0-231-05816-0|page=103|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=p4J80JqdUZgC&q=%22Audrey%20Slaughter%22%2Bhoney&pg=PA103|access-date=10 June 2010|quote=...[F]or example a newish magazine is often identified with a particular editor; an example is the association of Audrey Slaughter in the 1960s and 70s with a succession of young women's publications — ''Honey'', ''Petticoat'', and ''Over 21''.|archive-date=26 February 2024|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240226032147/https://books.google.com/books?id=p4J80JqdUZgC&q=%22Audrey%20Slaughter%22%2Bhoney&pg=PA103#v=onepage&q=%22Audrey%20Slaughter%22%2Bhoney&f=false|url-status=live}}</ref> |
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Wintour's grandfather was Major-General [[Fitzgerald Wintour]], a British military officer and descendant of [[George Grenville]], who served as [[List of prime ministers of the United Kingdom|Prime minister of the United Kingdom]]. Through her paternal grandmother, Alice Jane Blanche Foster, Wintour is a great-great-great-granddaughter of the late-18th-century novelist [[Elizabeth Cavendish, Duchess of Devonshire|Lady Elizabeth Foster]], who was later the [[Duke of Devonshire|Duchess of Devonshire]], and her first husband, the [[Ireland|Irish]] politician [[John Thomas Foster]]. Her great-great-great-great-grandfather was [[Frederick Hervey, 4th Earl of Bristol]], who served as the Anglican [[Bishop of Derry]]. [[Foster baronets|Sir Augustus Vere Foster, 4th Baronet]], the last Baronet of that name, was a granduncle of Wintour's.<ref name="Lady Foster">{{cite book|title=Georgiana Duchess of Devonshire|last=Masters|first=Brian|year=1981|publisher=Hamish Hamilton|location=London, UK|isbn=0-241-10662-1|pages=298–99}}</ref> She is a niece of [[Cordelia James, Baroness James of Rusholme]], the daughter of Fitzgerald Wintour.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://archiveshub.jisc.ac.uk/search/archives/920bb3aa-39b2-3494-91c7-528e45016b43 | title=WINTOUR, Maj Gen Fitzgerald (1860–1949) – Archives Hub | access-date=29 August 2022 | archive-date=28 August 2022 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220828140023/https://archiveshub.jisc.ac.uk/search/archives/920bb3aa-39b2-3494-91c7-528e45016b43 | url-status=live }}</ref> |
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Her father, [[Charles Vere Wintour]], [[Order of the British Empire|CBE]], was a former editor of The ''[[Evening Standard]]''. Her mother was Wintour's first wife, Eleanor ("Nonie") Trego Baker, the daughter of a [[Harvard Law School|Harvard law professor]], whom he [[marriage|married]] in 1940 and [[divorce]]d in 1979. She was named after her maternal grandmother, Anna (Gilkyson) Baker, a [[Philadelphia]] socialite.<ref name="Oppenheimer2">Oppenheimer, Jerry;''Front Row: The Cool Life and Hot Times of Vogue's Editor In Chief'', St. Martin's Press, New York, 2005, ISBN 0-3123-231-07, 2</ref> Her stepmother is Audrey Slaughter, a magazine editor who founded such British publications as ''Honey'' and ''Petticoat''. |
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Wintour had four siblings. Her older brother, Gerald, died in a traffic accident as a child.<ref name="Oppenheimer6">Oppenheimer, 6</ref> One of her younger brothers, [[Patrick Wintour|Patrick]], is also a journalist, currently diplomatic editor of ''[[The Guardian]]''.<ref name="Patrick Wintour">[https://www.theguardian.com/profile/patrickwintour Patrick Wintour, chief political correspondent] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200411124139/https://www.theguardian.com/profile/patrickwintour |date=11 April 2020 }}; ''The Guardian''. Retrieved 6 December 2006</ref><ref name="Camden News Journal story">{{cite news|last=Osley |first=Richard |title=Former Camden Town Hall director Jim Wintour 'quit over pension' – Housing boss feared new tax proposal |url=http://www.camdennewjournal.com/news/2010/may/former-camden-town-hall-director-jim-wintour-%E2%80%98quit-over-pension%E2%80%99-housing-boss-feared-n |newspaper=[[Camden New Journal]] |date=13 May 2010 |access-date=2 June 2010 |quote=Mr Wintour, who is brother of Anna Wintour, the editor-in-chief of Vogue ... |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110708113339/http://www.camdennewjournal.com/news/2010/may/former-camden-town-hall-director-jim-wintour-%E2%80%98quit-over-pension%E2%80%99-housing-boss-feared-n |archive-date=8 July 2011 }}</ref> |
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Wintour had four siblings, three of whom survive: James Charles, the [[managing director]] of [[Gravesham]] Borough Council;<ref name="Gravesham">Gravesham Borough Council; 20 August 2004; [http://www.gravesham.gov.uk/index.cfm?articleid=1173 Council’s Top Job is Filled]; retrieved December 6, 2006.</ref> Nora Hilary Wintour, the deputy general secretary of [[Public Services International]] in [[Geneva]], [[Switzerland]];<ref name="Nora Wintour">[http://www.world-psi.org/TemplateEn.cfm?Section=PSI_staff&Template=/ContentManagement/ContentDisplay.cfm&ContentID=13041 PSI staff]; retrieved from world-psi.org February 2, 2007.</ref> [[Patrick Wintour]], who started as labour correspondent at ''[[The Guardian]]'' in 1983 and rose to become the political editor for both it and the ''[[The Observer]]'' in 2006.<ref name="Patrick Wintour"> [http://www.guardian.co.uk/guardiancontacts/page/0,,326716,00.html Patrick Wintour, chief political correspondent]; ''[[The Guardian]]''; retrieved December 6, 2006.</ref> Her eldest brother, Gerald Jackson Wintour, died as a child in 1951 when he was struck by a car.<ref name="Oppenheimer28">Oppenheimer, ''op. cit.'', 28</ref> |
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Wintour attended [[North London Collegiate School]], where she frequently rebelled against the [[Social aspects of clothing#Private dress codes|dress code]] by taking up the [[hemline]]s of her skirts.<ref name="Oppenheimer15">Oppenheimer, 15</ref> At the age of 14, she began wearing her hair in a [[bob cut|bob]].<ref name="Oppenheimer21">Oppenheimer, 21.</ref> She developed an interest in fashion as a regular viewer of [[Cathy McGowan (presenter)|Cathy McGowan]] on ''[[Ready Steady Go!]],''<ref name="Oppenheimer22">Oppenheimer, 22.</ref> and from reading ''[[Seventeen (American magazine)|Seventeen]]'', which her grandmother sent from the United States.<ref name="The September Issue 19:05">''The September Issue'', 0:19.</ref> "Growing up in [[Swinging London|London in the '60s]], you'd have to have had [[Irving Penn]]'s sack over your head not to know something extraordinary was happening in fashion", she recalled.<ref name="September Issue 18:35">''The September Issue'', 0:18.</ref> Her father regularly consulted her when he was considering ideas for increasing readership in the youth market.<ref name="Oppenheimer22"/> |
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Her [[aunt]] Cordelia Wintour married [[Eric James, Baron James of Rusholme|Sir Eric James]], who was granted a [[life peer]]age as Baron James of [[Rusholme]]. |
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==Early life== |
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The young Wintour was educated at [[North London Collegiate School]], where she frequently rebelled against the [[dress code]] by wearing her [[skirt]]s so that the [[hem]] was higher than allowed.<ref name="Oppenheimer15">Oppenheimer, ''op.cit.'', 15</ref> At the age of 14 she began wearing her hair in the [[bob cut|bob]] that has since become her trademark. As London began to [[Swinging London|swing]], she became a dedicated follower of fashion as a regular viewer of [[Cathy McGowan]] on ''[[Ready Steady Go!]]'', and her father regularly consulted her when he was considering ideas for increasing readership in the youth market. In her later teens, she began dating [[gossip columnist]] [[Nigel Dempster]] and became a fixture on the London club circuit with him.<ref name="Oppenheimer36-37">Oppenheimer, ''op. cit.'', 36-37.</ref> |
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==Career== |
==Career== |
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===From fashion to journalism=== |
===From fashion to journalism=== |
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"I think my father really decided for me that I should work in fashion", she recalled in ''[[The September Issue]]''.<ref name="The September Issue 19:05"/> He arranged for his daughter's first job, at the influential [[Biba]] boutique, when she was 15.<ref name="Oppenheimer42-44">Oppenheimer, 42–44.</ref> The next year, she left North London Collegiate and began a training program at [[Harrods]]. At her parents' behest, she also took fashion classes at a nearby school. Soon she gave them up, saying, "You either know fashion or you don't."<ref name="Oppenheimer51">Oppenheimer, 51.</ref> An older boyfriend, [[Richard Neville (writer)|Richard Neville]], gave her her first experience of magazine production at his popular and controversial ''[[Oz (magazine)|Oz]]''.<ref name="Oppenheimer58-62">Oppenheimer, 58–62.</ref> |
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In 1970, when ''[[Harper's Bazaar]] UK'' merged with ''Queen'' to become ''Harper's & Queen'', Wintour was hired as one of its first editorial assistants, beginning her career in [[fashion journalism]].<ref name="Oppenheimer63">Oppenheimer, 63.</ref> She told her co-workers that she wanted to edit ''Vogue''.<ref name="Oppenheimer70">Oppenheimer, 70.</ref> While there, she discovered model Annabel Hodin, a former North London classmate. Her connections helped her secure locations for innovative shoots by [[Helmut Newton]], [[Jim Lee (Photographer and Film Director)|Jim Lee]]<ref>{{cite news|last=Adams|first=Jo|title=A Scooterman's Portfolio|url=https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2005/sep/11/photography.fashion|newspaper=The Guardian|date=11 September 2005|access-date=25 November 2011|location=London|archive-date=30 July 2022|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220730071020/https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2005/sep/11/photography.fashion|url-status=live}}</ref> and other trend-setting photographers.<ref name="Oppenheimer81">Oppenheimer, 81. "She quickly built up a reputation of being able to round up the best people and locations, mainly because of her connections through her father, pals like Nigel Dempster, and other well-placed people she met socially."</ref> One recreated the works of [[Pierre-Auguste Renoir|Renoir]] and [[Manet]] using models in [[go-go boots]].<ref name="Met bio">Metropolitan Museum of Art; 12 January 1999; [http://www.metmuseum.org/Press_Room/full_release.asp?prid={44C504B8-C28F-11D3-936E-00902786BF44} Anna Wintour elected honorary trustee]. Retrieved 6 December 2006. {{webarchive |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071119020206/http://www.metmuseum.org/Press_Room/full_release.asp?prid=%7B44C504B8-C28F-11D3-936E-00902786BF44%7D |date=19 November 2007 }}</ref> After chronic disagreements with her rival, [[Min Hogg]],<ref name="Oppenheimer96">Oppenheimer, 96.</ref> she quit and moved to New York with her boyfriend, freelance journalist [[Jon Bradshaw]].<ref name="Oppenheimer100">Oppenheimer, 100.</ref> |
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At 16, Anna dropped out of North London Collegiate. Wintour chose not to go to college but instead entered a training program at [[Harrods]]. At her parents' behest, she also took some fashion classes at a nearby school, but soon dropped out, telling her friend Vivienne Lasky that "you either know fashion or you don't".<ref name="Oppenheimer51">Oppenheimer, ''op. cit.'', 51.</ref> At Harrod's, she continued dating well-connected older men, in this case Peter Gitterman, the stepson of [[London Philharmonic Orchestra]] conductor [[Georg Solti]]. |
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===New York City=== |
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She entered the field of [[fashion journalism]] in 1970 when ''[[Harper's Bazaar]]'' merged with ''Queen'' to become, for a time, ''Harper's & Queen''. There, she discovered model [[Annabel Hodin]], a former North London classmate, and used the connections she had built up to secure locations for some striking, innovative shoots.<ref name="Oppenheimer81">Oppenheimer, ''op. cit.'', 81.</ref> One recreated the works of [[Renoir]] and [[Manet]] using models in [[go-go boots]].<ref name="Met bio">[[Metropolitan Museum of Art]]; January 12, 1999; [http://www.metmuseum.org/Press_Room/full_release.asp?prid={44C504B8-C28F-11D3-936E-00902786BF44} Anna Wintour elected honorary trustee]; retrieved December 6, 2006.</ref> After a short stint at a small magazine named ''[[Savvy]]'',<ref name="Larson">Larson, Christina; April 2005; [http://www.washingtonmonthly.com/features/2005/0504.larson2.html From Venus To Minerva]; ''[[Washington Monthly]]''; retrieved December 11, 2006.</ref> Wintour would move on to become a junior fashion editor at [[Harper's Bazaar]] in New York in 1975,<ref name="Met bio" /> where she lasted less than a year before being fired.{{Fact|date=February 2007}} Anna went on to become editor in charge of fashion at ''[[Viva (magazine)|Viva]]''.<ref name="Larson" /> According to Jerry Oppenheimer's biography ''Front Row'', she would later omit mention of the magazine in her career because of its connections to ''[[Penthouse (magazine)|Penthouse]]''. After three years, she moved on to become fashion editor of ''[[New York (magazine)|New York]]''.<ref name="Met bio" /> |
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In her new home, she became a junior fashion editor at ''[[Harper's Bazaar]]'' in New York City in 1975.<ref name="Met bio" /> Wintour's innovative shoots led editor Tony Mazzola to fire her after nine months.<ref name="Oppenheimer109">Oppenheimer, 109.</ref> She was reportedly introduced to [[Bob Marley]] by one of Bradshaw's friends, and disappeared with him for a week;<ref name="Oppenheimer107">Oppenheimer, 107.</ref> in a 2017 appearance on ''[[The Late Late Show with James Corden]]'', she said she had never actually met the reggae legend, but certainly would have "hooked up" with him if she had.<ref name="James Corden 2017 appearance">{{cite news|last=Schnurr|first=Samantha|title=Anna Wintour Reveals Who She Would Never Invite Back to the Met Gala|url=http://www.eonline.com/news/889550/anna-wintour-reveals-who-she-would-never-invite-back-to-the-met-gala|publisher=[[E!]]|date=26 October 2017|access-date=26 October 2017|quote=As for how Bob Marley is in bed, Wintour cleared that up as well. 'Fake news! I've never actually met Bob Marley,' she told Corden, clearing up any rumors that the two dated. However, Corden continued, 'Had you met him, would you have slept with him?' Her answer? 'Absolutely.'|archive-date=26 October 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171026211057/http://www.eonline.com/news/889550/anna-wintour-reveals-who-she-would-never-invite-back-to-the-met-gala|url-status=live}}</ref> A few months later, Bradshaw helped her get her first position as a fashion editor, at ''[[Viva (American magazine)|Viva]]'', a women's adult magazine started by [[Kathy Keeton]], then the wife of ''[[Penthouse (magazine)|Penthouse]]'' publisher [[Bob Guccione]]. She has rarely discussed working there, due to that connection.<ref name="Oppenheimer118">Oppenheimer, p. 118.</ref> This was the first job at which she was able to hire a personal assistant, which began her reputation as a demanding and difficult boss.<ref name="Oppenheimer120">Oppenheimer, p. 120.</ref> |
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In late 1978, Guccione shut down the unprofitable magazine. Wintour decided to take some time off from work. She broke up with Bradshaw and began a relationship with French record producer [[Michel Esteban]], for two years dividing her time with him between Paris and New York.<ref name="Oppenheimer152">Oppenheimer, 152.</ref> She returned to work in 1980, succeeding [[Elsa Klensch]] as fashion editor for a new women's magazine named ''Savvy''.<ref name="Larson">Larson, Christina; April 2005; [http://www.washingtonmonthly.com/features/2005/0504.larson2.html From Venus To Minerva] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20061128222851/http://www.washingtonmonthly.com/features/2005/0504.larson2.html |date=28 November 2006 }}; ''Washington Monthly''. Retrieved 11 December 2006.</ref> It sought to appeal to career-conscious professional women who spent their own money,<ref name="Oppenheimer159">Oppenheimer, p. 159.</ref> the readers Wintour would later target at ''Vogue''.<ref name="Slate">Fortini, Amanda; 10 February 2005; [https://slate.com/culture/2005/02/defending-vogue-s-evil-genius.html Defending ''Vogue''{{'s}} evil genius] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110919085652/http://www.slate.com/id/2113278/ |date=19 September 2011 }}; ''Slate''. Retrieved 6 December 2006.</ref> |
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===British ''Vogue''=== |
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The following year, she became fashion editor of ''[[New York (magazine)|New York]].''<ref name="Met bio"/> There, the fashion spreads and photo shoots she had been putting together for years finally began attracting attention. Editor Edward Kosner sometimes bent very strict rules for her and let her work on other sections of the magazine. She learned through her work on a cover involving [[Rachel Ward]] how effectively celebrity covers sold copies.<ref name="Oppenheimer188">Oppenheimer, 188.</ref> "Anna saw the celebrity thing coming before everyone else did", Grace Coddington said three decades later.<ref name="September Issue 1:12:00">''The September Issue'', 1:12:00.</ref> A former colleague arranged for an interview with ''Vogue'' editor [[Grace Mirabella]] that ended when Wintour told Mirabella she wanted her job.<ref name="Kevin Gray profile 4">Gray, 4.</ref><ref name="Oppenheimer190">Oppenheimer, p. 190.</ref> |
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She became editor of ''British Vogue'' in [[1986]] and ''[[House & Garden (magazine)|House & Garden]]'' the following year. At the former, she told her father's old paper, the ''Evening Standard'', she wanted to reach "a new kind of woman out there. She's interested in business and money. She doesn't have time to shop anymore. She wants to know what and why and where and how."<ref name="Larson" /> |
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===Condé Nast=== |
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At the latter, she was so fond of putting couture in photo spreads that industry wags began to refer to the magazine as ''House & Garment''.<ref name="Slate">Fortini, Amanda; February 10, 2005; [http://www.slate.com/id/2113278/ Defending ''Vogue'''s evil genius]; ''[[Slate (magazine)|Slate]]''; retrieved December 6, 2006.</ref> She managed to turn around and increase circulation of ''British Vogue'' but her couture photo spreads turned off [[Subscription business model|subscribers]] to ''House & Garden'' such that it would eventually close down after she left. "She destroyed ''House & Garden'' in about two days," complained a fired editor, noting that she had, in her first week, killed phot spreads and articles that had cost $2 million.<ref name="Time 1988">Zuckerman, Lawrence; June 13, 1988; [http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,967685-1,00.html The Dynamic Duo at Conde Nast]; ''[[Time (magazine)|Time]]''; retrieved February 8, 2007.</ref> (later, it would be revived by its parent company, [[Conde Nast]]). |
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{{Further|Condé Nast}} |
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[[File:November 1988 Vogue cover.jpg|right|upright|thumb|Wintour's first U.S. ''Vogue'' cover in November 1988, featuring model [[Michaela Bercu]].|alt=November 1988 cover of American Vogue magazine, showing model Michaela Bercu, shot from just below the waist in natural outdoor light, wearing a $10,000 jewel-encrusted Christian LaCroix T-shirt with faded 450 jeans. The top headline on the cover reads "The real cost of looking good"]] |
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She went to work at ''Vogue'' when Alex Liberman, who was then the editorial director for [[Condé Nast]] and publisher of ''Vogue'', talked to Wintour about a position there in 1983. She eventually accepted after a bidding war that doubled her salary, becoming the magazine's first creative director, a position with vaguely defined responsibilities.<ref name="Oppenheimer207">Oppenheimer, p. 207.</ref> Her changes to the magazine were often made without Mirabella's knowledge, causing friction among the staff.<ref name="Oppenheimer208-10">Oppenheimer, pp. 208–10.</ref> She began dating child psychiatrist [[David Shaffer]], an older acquaintance from London.<ref name="Oppenheimer193">Oppenheimer, 193.</ref> They married in 1984.<ref name="Oppenheimer223">Oppenheimer, p. 223.</ref> |
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In 1985, Wintour attained her first editorship, taking over the UK edition of ''[[Vogue (British magazine)|Vogue]]'' after [[Beatrix Miller]] retired.<ref name="Oppenheimer230">Oppenheimer, 230.</ref> Once in charge, she replaced many of the staff and exerted far more control over the magazine than any previous editor had, earning the nickname "Nuclear Wintour" in the process.<ref name="Oppenheimer243">Oppenheimer, 243.</ref> Those editors who were retained began to refer to the period as "The Wintour of Our Discontent".<ref name="Oppenheimer240">Oppenheimer, 240.</ref> Her changes moved the magazine from its traditional eccentricity to a direction more in line with the American magazine. Wintour's ideal reader was the same woman ''Savvy'' had tried to reach. "There's a new kind of woman out there", she told the ''Evening Standard.'' "She's interested in business and money. She doesn't have time to shop anymore. She wants to know what and why and where and how."<ref name="Larson"/> |
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===American ''Vogue''=== |
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In 1987, Wintour returned to New York City to take over ''[[House & Garden (magazine)|House & Garden]].'' Its circulation had long lagged behind rival ''[[Architectural Digest]],''<ref name="Oppenheimer269">Oppenheimer, 269.</ref> and Condé Nast hoped she could improve it. Again, she made radical changes to staff and look, canceling $2 million worth of photo spreads and articles in her first week.<ref name="Time 1988">Zuckerman, Lawrence; 13 June 1988; [https://web.archive.org/web/20070930103628/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,967685-1,00.html The Dynamic Duo at Condé Nast], ''Time''. Retrieved 8 February 2007.</ref> She put so much fashion in photo spreads that it became known as "''House & Garment''," and enough celebrities that it was referred to as "''Vanity Chair''" within the industry.<ref name="Slate"/> These changes worsened the magazine's problems. When the title was shortened to just ''HG'', many longtime subscribers thought they were getting a new magazine and put it aside for the real thing to arrive.<ref name="Oppenheimer269" /> Most of those subscriptions were eventually canceled and, while some fashion advertisers came over, most of the magazine's traditional advertisers pulled out.<ref name="Oppenheimer271">Oppenheimer, 271.</ref> |
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She was expected to do the same at American ''Vogue'', when she took over in 1988. It had, under her predecessor [[Grace Mirabella]], become more focused on lifestyles as a whole and less on fashion.<ref name="Slate" /> Industry insiders worried that it was losing ground to the upstart ''[[ELLE]]'',<ref name="Slate" /> which had been introduced to America from France in 1985.<ref name="Larson" /> Wintour made her mark early on with a shift in the cover pictures. Whereas Mirabella had preferred tight [[Head shot|headshots]] of well-known models, Wintour's covers showed more of the body and were taken outside, in [[natural light]], instead of the [[studio]], echoing what Vreeland had done years earlier.<ref name="Larson" /> She used less well-known models, and mixed inexpensive clothes with the high fashion — the first issue she was in charge of, in November of that year, featured a young [[Israel]]i model in a $50 pair of faded [[jeans]] and a bejeweled [[T-shirt]] by [[Christian Lacroix]] worth 200 times that (200 x $50 = $10,000). Eight months later, another model was shown in wet hair, with just a [[terrycloth]] [[bathrobe]] and apparently without [[makeup]].<ref name="Slate" /> She also made a point of seeing to it that photographers, [[makeup]] artists and [[hairstylist]]s got as much credit for the images as the models.<ref name="Larson" /> |
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Ten months later, she became editor of U.S. ''Vogue''. Industry insiders worried that under Mirabella, the magazine was losing ground to the recently-introduced American edition of ''[[Elle (magazine)|Elle]]''.<ref name="Larson" /><ref name="Slate" /> After making sweeping changes in staff, Wintour changed the style of the cover pictures. Mirabella had preferred tight [[head shot]]s of well-known models in studios; Wintour's covers showed more of the body and were taken outside, like those [[Diana Vreeland]] had done years earlier.<ref name="Larson" /> She used less well-known models, and mixed inexpensive clothes with high fashion: the first issue she was in charge of, November 1988, featured a [[Peter Lindbergh]] photograph of 19-year-old [[Michaela Bercu]] in a $50 pair of faded jeans and a bejeweled T-shirt by [[Christian Lacroix]] worth $10,000. It was the first time a ''Vogue'' cover model had worn jeans;<ref name="Slate" /> when the printer saw it they called the magazine's offices, thinking it was the wrong image.<ref name="Hadid tribute">{{Cite web|url=http://www.vogue.com/1019685/gigi-hadid-vogue-cover/|title=Gigi Hadid, Model of the Moment, Pays Tribute to Anna Wintour's First ''Vogue'' Cover|last=Thomas|first=Mark Guiducci, Sean|website=Vogue|date=26 August 2014|access-date=4 May 2016|archive-date=2 May 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160502011817/http://www.vogue.com/1019685/gigi-hadid-vogue-cover|url-status=live}}</ref> |
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Under her editorship, the magazine renewed its focus on fashion and returned to the prominence it had held under [[Diana Vreeland]]. The September 2004 issue boasted a record 832 pages, the largest issue of a monthly magazine ever published at that time.<ref name="Slate" /> She has also overseen the introduction of three spinoff titles: ''[[Teen Vogue]]'', ''[[Vogue Living]]'' and ''[[Men's Vogue]]''. ''Teen Vogue'' has outpaced its two top competitors, ''[[ELLE Girl]]'' and ''[[Cosmo Girl]]'' in ad pages and dollars, and the 164 ad pages in the debut issue of ''Men's Vogue'' were the most for a first issue in Conde Nast history.<ref name="Folio">March 29, 2006; [http://www.foliomag.com/viewmedia.asp?prmMID=5843&prmID=249 Anna Wintour:Editor-in-Chief, Vogue]; ''Folio:''; retrieved February 7, 2007.</ref> Her accomplishment in expanding the brand earned her the coveted title of "Editor of the Year," by the industry trade magazine ''[[Advertising Age|AdAge]].<ref name="Editor of the Year">October 22, 2006; "[http://adage.com/amc06/article?article_id=112639 Magazine Editor of the Year: Anna Wintour]"; ''[[Advertising Age]]''; retrieved February 8, 2007.</ref> |
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In 2012, Wintour reflected on the cover:{{blockquote|It was so unlike the studied and elegant close-ups that were typical of Vogue's covers back then, with tons of makeup and major jewelry. This one broke all the rules. Michaela wasn't looking at you, and worse, she had her eyes almost closed. Her hair was blowing across her face. It looked easy, casual, a moment that had been snapped on the street, which it had been, and which was the whole point. Afterwards, in the way that these things can happen, people applied all sorts of interpretations: It was about mixing high and low, Michaela was pregnant, it was a religious statement. But none of these things was true. I had just looked at that picture and sensed the winds of change. And you can't ask for more from a cover image than that.<ref name="Wintour on Bercu cover">{{cite web|last=Wintour|first=Anna|title=Honoring the 120th Anniversary: Anna Wintour Shares Her Vogue Story|url=http://www.vogue.com/vogue-daily/article/anna-wintour-on-her-first-vogue-cover-plus-a-slideshow-of-her-favorite-images-in-vogue/#1|work=[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]|date=14 August 2012|access-date=22 August 2013|archive-date=11 July 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140711185515/http://www.vogue.com/vogue-daily/article/anna-wintour-on-her-first-vogue-cover-plus-a-slideshow-of-her-favorite-images-in-vogue/#1|url-status=dead}}</ref>}} |
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Her salary is reported to be $5 million a year and she also receives generous perks including a $50,000 clothes budget, a [[chauffeur]] and a suite at the [[Hôtel Ritz Paris]] whilst attending Paris Fashion Week.{{Fact|date=February 2007}} |
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Years later, Wintour admitted the photo had never been planned as the cover shot. In 2011, when ''Vogue'' put its entire archive online, Wintour was quoted as saying, "I just said, 'Well, let's just try this.' And off we went. It was just very natural. To me it just said, 'This is something new. This is something different.' The printers called to make sure that was supposed to be the cover, as they thought a mistake might have been made."<ref name="CBS News 2011 interview">{{cite news|title=Vogue puts its 120-year history online|url=https://www.cbsnews.com/news/vogue-puts-its-120-year-history-online/|work=CBS News|date=11 December 2011|access-date=22 December 2011|archive-date=22 December 2011|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111222091550/http://www.cbsnews.com/8301-3445_162-57340950/vogue-puts-its-120-year-history-online/|url-status=live}}</ref> In 2015, she said if she had to pick a favorite of her covers, it would be that one. "[I]t was a leap of faith and it was certainly a big change for ''Vogue''."<ref name="2015 New York interview">{{cite news|last=LaRocca|first=Amy|title=In Conversation With Anna Wintour|url=https://nymag.com/thecut/2015/05/anna-wintour-amy-larocca-in-conversation.html|newspaper=[[New York (magazine)|New York]]|date=4 May 2015|access-date=14 August 2015|archive-date=22 August 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150822000340/http://nymag.com/thecut/2015/05/anna-wintour-amy-larocca-in-conversation.html|url-status=live}}</ref> |
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[[A & E]] [[IndieFilms]] and [[R.J. Cutler]] are to shoot a feature-length documentary chronicling the making of Vogue's September issue. Cutler had approached Wintour in 2004 and will direct the untitled pic which will be shot over eight months as Wintour prepares the fall fashion issue, known in the industry as the "fashion bible". The filmmakers plan to have the pic completed in 2008 |
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"Wintour's approach hit a nerve—this was the way real women put clothes together (with the likely exception of wearing multi-thousand-dollar T-shirts)", one reviewer says. On the June 1989 cover, model Estelle Lefebure was shown in wet hair, with just a bathrobe and no apparent makeup.<ref name="Slate" /> Photographers, makeup artists, and hairstylists got credited along with the models.<ref name="Larson"/> In August 2014, [[Gigi Hadid]] paid tribute to Wintour's first cover.<ref name="Hadid tribute" /> |
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===Fashion industry power broker=== |
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She exerts a great deal of control over the magazine's visual content. Since her first days as editor, she has required that photographers not begin until she has approved [[Instant film|Polaroids]] of the setup and clothing. Afterwards, they must submit all their work to the magazine, not just their personal choices.<ref name="Oppenheimer244">Oppenheimer, p. 244.</ref> |
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Anna Wintour, through the years, has become one of the most powerful people in fashion, setting trends and anointing new designers. ''[[The Guardian]]'' has called her the "unofficial mayoress" of [[New York City]].<ref name="Unofficial mayoress">Pilkington, Ed; 5 December 2006; [http://www.guardian.co.uk/elsewhere/journalist/story/0,,1964329,00.html Central Bark]; ''The Guardian''; retrieved December 6, 2006.</ref> She has worked behind the scenes to encourage fashion houses to hire younger, fresher designers such as [[John Galliano]], who owes his position at [[Christian Dior]] to her intervention. She persuaded [[Donald Trump]] to let [[Marc Jacobs]] use a [[ballroom]] at the [[Plaza Hotel]] for a [[fashion show|show]] when he and his partner were short of cash. More recently, she persuaded [[Brooks Brothers]] to hire the relatively unknown [[Thom Browne]].<ref name="Citizen Anna">Horyn, Cathy; February 1, 2007; "[http://www.nytimes.com/2007/02/01/fashion/01WINTOUR.htm Citizen Anna]"; ''[[The New York Times]]''; retrieved February 2, 2007.</ref> Her protégée at ''Vogue'', [[Plum Sykes]], became a successful [[novel]]ist, drawing her settings from New York's fashionable élite. |
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Her control over the text is less certain. Her staff claim she reads everything written for publication,<ref name="NY Observer Plum Sykes story2">{{cite news|last=Snyder|first=Gabriel|date=17 December 2000|title=Bright Young Thing, Plum Sykes, Abandons Vogue, Sort Of|work=The New York Observer|url=http://www.observer.com/node/43767|url-status=dead|access-date=11 June 2010|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100513182359/http://www.observer.com/node/43767|archive-date=13 May 2010}}</ref><ref name="Oppenheimer325">Oppenheimer, 325.</ref> but former editor Richard Story has claimed she rarely, if ever, reads any of ''Vogue''{{'}}s arts coverage or book reviews.<ref name="Oppenheimer326">Oppenheimer, 326.</ref> Earlier in her career, she often left writing of the text that accompanied her layouts to others; former coworkers claim she has minimal skills in that area.<ref name="Oppenheimer on poor writing">Oppenheimer, pp. 70–71, 123–24, 161–62, 179–80.</ref> Today, she writes little for the magazine save the monthly editor's letter. She reportedly has three full-time assistants but sometimes surprises callers by answering the phone herself.<ref name="Citizen Anna 22">Horyn, "Citizen Anna", 2.</ref> |
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Like many successful power brokers, she rarely makes her wishes known directly. Fashion industry [[publicist]]s say that a simple "Do you want me to go to Anna with this?" from a subordinate is often enough to settle a dispute in ''Vogue'''s favor.<ref name="Citizen Anna" /> |
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== |
===1990s=== |
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Under her editorship, the magazine renewed its focus on fashion and returned to the prominence it had held under Vreeland. ''Vogue'' held its position as market leader against three contenders: ''Elle''; ''Harper's Bazaar'', which had lured away [[Liz Tilberis]], Wintour's most prominent deputy, and ''[[Mirabella]]'', a magazine [[Rupert Murdoch]] created for Wintour's fired predecessor. Her most serious competitor was within the company: [[Tina Brown]], editor of ''[[Vanity Fair (magazine)|Vanity Fair]]'' and later ''[[The New Yorker]]''.<ref name="Oppenheimer293-96">Oppenheimer, pp. 293–96.</ref> |
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===Marriages and children=== |
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At the end of the decade, another of Wintour's inner circle left to run ''Harper's Bazaar''. [[Kate Betts]], seen as Wintour's likely successor, had broadened the magazine's reach by commissioning stories with a more hard-news edge, about women in politics, street culture, and the financial difficulties of some major designers. She had also added the "Index" section, a few pages of tips meant to be torn out of the magazine. At staff meetings, she earned Wintour's respect as the only person who publicly challenged her.<ref name="Kevin Gray profile 2">Gray, pg. 2.</ref> |
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She [[marriage|married]] child psychiatrist [[David Shaffer]] in 1984<ref name="Larson" /> and has two children by him, Charles (Charlie) and Katherine (known as Bee), who blogs for the ''[[Daily Telegraph]]''<ref name="Bee">Alexander, Hilary; February 15, 2006;[http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/main.jhtml?xml=/fashion/2006/02/15/efanna15.xml Wintour comes in from the cold]; ''[[The Daily Telegraph]]''; retrieved February 7, 2007.</ref>(during both [[pregnancy|pregnancies]], she continued to wear [[Chanel]] [[miniskirt]]s to work<ref name="Acid Queen">June 25, 2006; "[http://film.guardian.co.uk/features/featurepages/0,,1806322,00.html Meet the acid queen of New York fashion]"; ''[[The Observer]]''; retrieved February 7, 2007.</ref>). |
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The two began to disagree about the magazine's direction. Betts felt ''Vogue''{{'s}} fashion coverage was getting too limited. Wintour in turn thought that the stories with popular culture angles Betts was assigning were beneath readers, and began pairing Betts with [[Plum Sykes]], whom Betts reportedly detested as a "pretentious airhead". Eventually, she left, complaining to ''The New York Times'' that Wintour had not even sent her a baby gift. Wintour wrote an editor's letter that complimented Betts and wished her well.<ref name="Kevin Gray profile 3">Gray, pg. 3.</ref> |
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The couple [[divorce]]d in 1999; [[tabloid]] newspapers and [[gossip columnist]]s speculated that it was an affair with [[millionaire]] [[investor]] [[Shelby Bryan]] that ended the marriage, but Wintour has refused to comment.{{Fact|date=February 2007}} She maintains an ongoing relationship with Bryan that friends say has mellowed her. "She smiles now and has been seen to laugh", the ''[[The Observer|Observer]]'' quoted one as saying.<ref name="Acid Queen" /> |
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=== |
===2000s=== |
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Betts was one of several longtime editors to leave ''Vogue'' around the new millennium. A year later, Sykes, another putative successor, left to concentrate on her best-selling novels set in the city's upper classes and a screenplay. A number of other editors also left to assume the top jobs at other publications. While some of their replacements did not last, a new group of core editors formed.<ref name="NY Observer Plum Sykes story2" /> |
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[[File:Anna Wintour2.jpg|thumb|upright|Wintour in Germany, 2006|alt=Anna Wintour wearing sunglasses as she walks along a street in Germany]] |
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The September 2004 issue was 832 pages, the largest issue of a monthly magazine ever published at that time, since exceeded by the September 2007 issue Cutler's documentary covered.<ref name="Slate"/> Wintour oversaw the introduction of three spinoffs: ''[[Teen Vogue]]'', ''[[Vogue Living]]'' and ''[[Men's Vogue]].'' ''Teen Vogue'' has published more ad pages and earned more advertiser revenue than either ''[[Elle Girl]]'' and ''[[Cosmo Girl]]'', and the 164 ad pages in the début issue of ''[[Men's Vogue]]'' were the most for a first issue in Condé Nast history.<ref name="Folio">{{cite web|url=http://www.foliomag.com/2006/anna-wintour-editor-chief-vogue|title=Anna Wintour:Editor-in-Chief, Vogue|date=29 March 2006|access-date=24 June 2010|quote=And ''Men's Vogue'', with 164 pages, was the most ad-laden launch in Condé Nast history|archive-date=27 February 2012|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120227133508/http://www.foliomag.com/2006/anna-wintour-editor-chief-vogue|url-status=live}}</ref> ''[[Advertising Age|AdAge]]'' named her "Editor of the Year" for this brand expansion.<ref name="Editor of the Year">[http://adage.com/amc06/article?article_id=112639 "Magazine Editor of the Year: Anna Wintour"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20061114003830/http://adage.com/amc06/article?article_id=112639 |date=14 November 2006 }}, ''Advertising Age'', 22 October 2006. Retrieved 8 February 2007.</ref> |
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Wintour was appointed [[Officer of the Order of the British Empire]] (OBE) in the [[2008 Birthday Honours]].<ref>{{London Gazette|issue=58729|date=14 June 2008|page=25 |supp=y}}</ref><ref name="OBE">[https://web.archive.org/web/20081220170145/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/3364968/Anna-Wintour-awarded-OBE.html Anna Wintour awarded OBE], ''The Daily Telegraph''. Retrieved 14 June 2008.</ref> However, 2008 was generally difficult year for ''Vogue'', as a result of the [[Great Recession]]. The April issue's cover image of [[LeBron James]] and [[Gisele Bündchen]] brought criticism for its evocation of [[racial stereotypes]].<ref name="Daily Telegraph Lebron cover story">{{Cite news|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/1583333/Race-row-over-King-Kong-Vogue-cover.html |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220112/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/1583333/Race-row-over-King-Kong-Vogue-cover.html |archive-date=12 January 2022 |url-access=subscription |url-status=live|title=Race row over 'King Kong' Vogue cover|last=Sherwell|first=Philip|newspaper=[[The Daily Telegraph]]|date=30 March 2008|access-date=8 August 2019|language=en-GB|issn=0307-1235}}{{cbignore}}</ref> The next month, a lavish [[Karl Lagerfeld]] gown she wore to the Met's Costume Institute Gala was called "the worst fashion ''faux pas'' of 2008". In the fall, ''Vogue Living'' was suspended indefinitely, and ''Men's Vogue'' cut back to two issues a year as an [[outsert]] or supplement to the women's magazine. At the end of the year, December's cover highlighted a disparaging comment [[Jennifer Aniston]] made about [[Angelina Jolie]], to the former's displeasure; media observers began speculating that Wintour had lost her touch.<ref name="Men's Vogue folding">{{cite news|last=Mullaney|first=Tim|title=Condé Nast to Fold Men's Vogue, Cut Back Portfolio|url=https://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=20601103&sid=a3l1r3s.uPK0|publisher=Bloomberg|date=30 October 2008|access-date=14 June 2010|quote=Condé Nast Publications Inc. will fold Men's Vogue into the larger women's Vogue magazine [...] because of faltering advertising sales. Men's Vogue will be published twice a year, the closely held New York-based publisher said today in an e-mail.|archive-date=26 February 2024|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240226032203/https://www.bloomberg.com/politics?pid=20601103&sid=a3l1r3s.uPK0|url-status=live}}</ref> |
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Despite her infamous icy facade, Wintour is also a noted [[philanthropist]]. She serves as a [[trustee]] of the [[Metropolitan Museum of Art]] in New York.<ref name="Met bio" /> Wintour began the CFDA/Vogue Fund in order to encourage, support and mentor unknown fashion designers. She has also raised over $10 million for [[AIDS]] charities since 1990, by organizing various high profile benefits.<ref name="Met bio" /> |
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[[File:Saveanna-736291.jpg|upright|right|thumb|"Save Anna" logo created in response to retirement rumours|alt=A black-and-white photo of Wintour's head with "Save Anna" in white on black in a banner below.]] |
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In 2008, rumours arose that she would retire, and be replaced by French ''Vogue'' editor [[Carine Roitfeld]].<ref name="Horyn New Year's 2009 story">{{cite news|last=Horyn|first=Cathy|author-link=Cathy Horyn|title=What's Wrong With Vogue?|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2009/01/01/fashion/01ANNA.html|url-access=subscription|newspaper=The New York Times|date=1 January 2009|access-date=14 August 2009|quote=It's embarrassing to see how Vogue deals with the recession. For the December issue, it sent a writer off to discover the 'charms' of WalMart and Target. A similar obtuseness permeates a fashion spread in the January issue, where a model and a child are portrayed on a weekend outing with a Superman figure. Is a '50s suburban frock emblematic of the mortgage meltdown?|archive-date=31 January 2012|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120131232721/http://www.nytimes.com/2009/01/01/fashion/01ANNA.html|url-status=live}}</ref> An editor at Russian ''[[GQ]]'' reportedly introduced Russian ''Vogue'' editor [[Aliona Doletskaya]] as the next editor of American ''Vogue''.<ref name="NY mag The Cut">{{cite web|title=Why Anna Wintour Isn't Going Anywhere|url=https://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2008/10/anna_wintour.html|work=New York|date=2 October 2008|access-date=14 August 2009|archive-date=14 November 2011|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111114195728/http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2008/10/anna_wintour.html|url-status=live}}</ref> Condé Nast responded by taking out a two-page ad in ''The New York Times'' defending Wintour's record. In that same publication, [[Cathy Horyn]] later wrote that while Wintour had not lost her touch, the magazine had become "stale and predictable", as a reader had recently complained. "To read ''Vogue'' in recent years is to wonder about the peculiar fascination for the 'villa in [[Tuscany]]' story", Horyn added. The magazine also dealt awkwardly with the [[Late 2000s recession in the Americas#U.S.|recession]], she commented.<ref name="Horyn New Year's 2009 story"/> |
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In 2009, Wintour began making more media appearances. On a ''[[60 Minutes]]'' profile, she said she would not retire. "To me, this is a really interesting time to be in this position and I think it would be in a way irresponsible not to put my best foot forward and lead us into a different time."<ref name="60 Minutes 2">Safer, 4.</ref> A documentary film, ''[[The September Issue]]'', by ''[[The War Room]]'' producer [[R.J. Cutler]], about the production of the September 2007 issue, was released in September. It focused on the sometimes-difficult relationship between Wintour and creative director [[Grace Coddington]].<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.arp.tv/production.html?production=septissue|title=The September Issue, the documentary feature film|publisher=Actual Reality Pictures|access-date=16 August 2009|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090228183841/http://arp.tv/production.html?production=septissue|archive-date=28 February 2009}}</ref><ref name="Observer September issue article">{{cite news|last=Hill|first=Amelia|title=Film reveals soft side to Vogue's icy style queen Anna Wintour|url=https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/may/24/anna-wintour-vogue-film-documentary|work=The Observer|date=24 May 2009|access-date=17 August 2009|location=London, UK|archive-date=6 September 2013|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130906130222/http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2009/may/24/anna-wintour-vogue-film-documentary|url-status=live}}</ref> Wintour appeared on the ''[[Late Show with David Letterman]]'' to promote it,<ref name="Letterman appearance">{{cite news|last=Lapowsky|first=Issie|title=Vogue editor Anna Wintour gets laughs on 'Late Show with David Letterman'|url=http://www.nydailynews.com/entertainment/tv/2009/08/25/2009-08-25_anna_wintours_appearance_on_late_show_with_david_letterman_a_hit.html|work=Daily News|location=New York|date=25 August 2009|access-date=27 August 2009|archive-date=28 August 2009|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090828002921/http://www.nydailynews.com/entertainment/tv/2009/08/25/2009-08-25_anna_wintours_appearance_on_late_show_with_david_letterman_a_hit.html|url-status=live}}</ref> defending the relevance of fashion in a tough economy.<ref name="Letterman appearance Daily News 2">{{cite news|last=Hinckley|first=Dave|title=Anna Wintour on David Letterman: ice queen thaws, but doesn't melt hearts under TV spotlight|url=http://www.nydailynews.com/entertainment/tv/2009/08/25/2009-08-25_anna_wintour_on_david_letterman_.html|work=Daily News|location=New York|date=25 August 2009|access-date=27 August 2009|quote=She became more perfunctory when Dave asked the two questions that probably most interest the non-fashionista. First, what happens to high fashion in a down economy, and second, does anyone wear the really bizarre stuff you see at fashion shows? Wintour's reply to the first question was that fashion is available at all prices, and that's probably true.|archive-date=28 August 2009|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090828151312/http://www.nydailynews.com/entertainment/tv/2009/08/25/2009-08-25_anna_wintour_on_david_letterman_.html|url-status=live}}</ref> The [[American Society of Magazine Editors]] elected her to its Hall of Fame in 2010.<ref name="ASME Hall of Fame">{{cite web|last=Fell|first=Jason|title=Vogue's Wintour Gets ASME's Hall of Fame Nod|url=http://www.foliomag.com/2010/vogue-s-wintour-gets-asme-s-hall-fame-nod|work=Folio|publisher=Red 7 Media LLC|date=23 February 2010|access-date=25 June 2010|archive-date=27 February 2010|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100227003943/http://www.foliomag.com/2010/vogue-s-wintour-gets-asme-s-hall-fame-nod|url-status=live}}</ref> |
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===Work habits=== |
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===2010s=== |
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She rises daily before 6 a.m., plays [[tennis]] and has her hair and makeup done, then gets to ''Vogue'''s offices at 8. She always arrives at fashion shows at their scheduled starting time, whether or not they can be reasonably expected to do so. "I use the waiting time to make phone calls, make notes; I get some of my best ideas at the shows", she says.<ref name="Bee" /> According to the [[BBC]] [[documentary]] ''Boss Woman'', she is similarly efficient with her time elsewhere in her day, rarely staying at parties for more than 20 minutes at a time and getting to bed by 10:15 every night.<ref name="Boss Woman review">Media, David Lister; July 8, 2000; "[http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qn4158/is_20000708/ai_n14327782 You can't be too thin to survive Nuclear Wintour]"; ''[[The Independent]]''; retrieved from findarticles.com February 8, 2007.</ref> |
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[[File:Victoria Beckham becomes international ambassador for GREAT campaign (6886222987) (cropped - Anna Wintour).jpg|thumb|left|Wintour in February 2012]] |
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In 2013, [[Condé Nast Publications|Condé Nast]] announced she would be taking on the position of artistic director for the company's magazines while remaining at ''Vogue''. She assumed some of the responsibilities of [[Samuel Irving Newhouse, Jr.|Si Newhouse]], the company's longtime chairman, who, in his mid-80s at the time, was retreating from his role at Condé Nast to oversee managing [[Advance Publications]], its parent company. A company spokesman told ''The New York Times'' the position was created to keep Wintour. She described it as "an extension of what I am doing, but on a broader scale."<ref name="NYT artistic director story">{{cite news|last=Wilson|first=Eric|title=Condé Nast Adds to Job of Longtime Vogue Editor|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2013/03/13/business/media/conde-nast-creates-new-job-for-anna-wintour.html|newspaper=The New York Times|date=12 March 2013|access-date=16 March 2013|archive-date=16 March 2013|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130316010427/http://www.nytimes.com/2013/03/13/business/media/conde-nast-creates-new-job-for-anna-wintour.html|url-status=live}}</ref> |
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In January 2014, the [[Metropolitan Museum of Art]] [[Anna Wintour Costume Center|named its Costume Institute complex after Wintour]];<ref name="Met Names Costume Institute Complex in Honor of Anna Wintour">{{cite web|url=http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/met-names-costume-institute-complex-in-honor-of-anna-wintour-7360586?src=nl/mornReport/20140115|title=Met Names Costume Institute Complex in Honor of Anna Wintour|work=Women's Wear Daily|date=14 January 2014|access-date=15 January 2014|author=Karimzadeh, Marc|archive-date=16 January 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140116152221/http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/met-names-costume-institute-complex-in-honor-of-anna-wintour-7360586?src=nl%2FmornReport%2F20140115|url-status=live}}</ref> First Lady [[Michelle Obama]] opened it in May of that year.<ref>{{cite news|last=Koblin|first=John|title=At Met Gala, Fashionistas Dress Up in Tribute|url=http://topics.nytimes.com/top/reference/timestopics/people/enwiki/w/anna_wintour/index.html|newspaper=The New York Times|date=5 May 2014|access-date=15 August 2014|archive-date=9 August 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140809145830/http://topics.nytimes.com/top/reference/timestopics/people/enwiki/w/anna_wintour/index.html|url-status=live}}</ref> Wintour starred in ''[[The Fashion Fund]]'', which aired on [[Ovation (U.S. TV channel)|Ovation TV]] that year as well;<ref name="Anna Wintour, 'The Fashion Fund' to Air on Cable TV">{{cite web|url=http://www.wwd.com/media-news/fashion-memopad/anna-et-al-back-in-the-spotlight-7356813?src=nl/mornReport/20140114|title=Anna Wintour, 'The Fashion Fund' to Air on Cable TV|work=Women's Wear Daily|access-date=14 January 2014|author=Steigrad, Alexandra|date=14 January 2014|archive-date=16 January 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140116145021/http://www.wwd.com/media-news/fashion-memopad/anna-et-al-back-in-the-spotlight-7356813?src=nl/mornReport/20140114|url-status=live}}</ref> she was named the 39th most powerful woman in the world by ''[[Forbes]]''.<ref name=Forbes14>{{cite web|title=The World's 100 Most Powerful Women|url=https://www.forbes.com/power-women/list/#tab:overall|work=Forbes|access-date=24 June 2014|archive-date=20 September 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170920073036/https://www.forbes.com/power-women/list/#tab:overall|url-status=live}}</ref> |
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At ''Vogue'', she reportedly has three full-time assistants (one more than suggested by ''The Devil Wears Prada'') but sometimes surprises callers by answering the phone herself.<ref name="Citizen Anna" /> Her good friend [[Barbara Amiel]] says that she often turns her [[cell phone]] off in order to eat lunch uninterrupted, and likes to have a good [[steak]] for her midday meal.<ref name="Amiel">Amiel, Barbara; July 2, 2006; "[http://www.telegraph.co.uk/arts/main.jhtml?xml=/arts/2006/07/02/svdevil02.xml The 'Devil' I know]"; ''[[The Daily Telegraph]]''; retrieved February 6, 2007.</ref> |
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On the occasion of the 10th anniversary of ''[[The Devil Wears Prada (film)|The Devil Wears Prada]]''{{'s}} release, in 2016, ''[[The Ringer (website)|The Ringer]]'' noted how Wintour's personal image had evolved since that film's depiction of Miranda Priestley. "A decade ago this summer, Wintour became a living, breathing avatar for a certain kind of boss—the terrible kind, with 'great' a halfhearted asterisk", wrote Alison Herman. "''The Devil Wears Prada'' transformed Wintour's image from that of a mere public figure into that of a cultural icon."<ref name="Ringer 2016 article">{{cite news|last=Herman|first=Alison|title=Everybody Wants to Be Us|url=https://theringer.com/the-rehabilitation-of-anna-wintour-2e7cce5a3c80|newspaper=[[The Ringer (website)|The Ringer]]|date=30 June 2016|access-date=10 September 2016|archive-date=26 February 2024|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240226032159/https://www.theringer.com/2016/6/30/16046964/the-rehabilitation-of-anna-wintour-2e7cce5a3c80|url-status=live}}</ref> |
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===Politics=== |
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But since then, "Wintour isn't just redeemed. She's openly admired, Arctic chill and all." The grievances reflected in the novel and film "[seem] like an increasingly petty complaint when held up against a readership that remains well into the seven figures and the undisputed edge in ad sales that comes with it. Wintour is seemingly the only person on earth who knows how to run a steady print operation in 2016 ... At 10 years old, Miranda Priestley is iconic but ever-so-slightly out of date. Anna Wintour is still the boss..."<ref name="Ringer 2016 article"/> |
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"Anna is a liberal", says Amiel. "She endorsed [[Al Gore]] in his presidential bid".<ref name="Amiel Maclean's">Amiel, Barbara; June 30, 2006; "[http://www.macleans.ca/culture/films/article.jsp?content=20060701_130331_130331 This devil isn't Anna]"; ''[[Maclean's]]''; retrieved February 8, 2007.</ref> |
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Wintour was appointed [[Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire]] (DBE) in the [[2017 New Year Honours]] for services to fashion and journalism and invested by [[Elizabeth II of the United Kingdom|Queen Elizabeth II]] in May 2017 at [[Buckingham Palace]].<ref name="2017 knighthood">{{cite news|last=Saad|first=Nadine|title=You can call her Dame Anna Wintour now (not that you didn't already)|url=https://www.latimes.com/entertainment/la-et-entertainment-news-updates-may-anna-wintour-elevated-to-dame-by-queen-1494013916-htmlstory.html|newspaper=[[Los Angeles Times]]|date=5 May 2017|access-date=9 May 2017|archive-date=8 May 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170508140205/http://www.latimes.com/entertainment/la-et-entertainment-news-updates-may-anna-wintour-elevated-to-dame-by-queen-1494013916-htmlstory.html|url-status=live}}</ref> According to a January 2017 report in ''[[The Nation]]'', an American news magazine, it was rumored that Wintour would have become the [[United States Ambassador to the United Kingdom]] had [[Hillary Clinton]] been elected President of the United States the previous November.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.thenational.scot/news/15014316.Vogue_s_Anna_Wintour_was_to_be_Clinton_ambassador_to_UK/|title=Vogue's Anna Wintour was to be Clinton ambassador to UK|website=The National|date=11 January 2017|access-date=28 December 2017|archive-date=29 December 2017|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171229052530/http://www.thenational.scot/news/15014316.Vogue_s_Anna_Wintour_was_to_be_Clinton_ambassador_to_UK/|url-status=live}}</ref> |
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==Criticism== |
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===2020s=== |
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While her success at turning ''Vogue'' around and her support of the fashion industry and charity work are universally acknowledged, that has not immunized her from criticism. |
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In May 2020, former editor-at-large [[André Leon Talley]] released his second memoir, ''The Chiffon Trenches'', which exposed Talley and Wintour's personal falling-out in 2018 after he was discontinued as ''Vogue''{{'}}s [[Met Gala]] red carpet reporter.<ref>{{Cite news|last=Freeman|first=Hadley|date=23 May 2020|title=André Leon Talley: 'My story is a fairytale, and in every fairytale there is evil and darkness'|language=en-GB|work=The Guardian|url=https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/may/23/andre-leon-talley-my-story-is-a-fairytale-and-in-every-fairytale-there-is-evil-and-darkness|access-date=3 July 2020|issn=0261-3077|archive-date=3 July 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200703045117/https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/may/23/andre-leon-talley-my-story-is-a-fairytale-and-in-every-fairytale-there-is-evil-and-darkness|url-status=live}}</ref> |
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Following the [[murder of George Floyd]], Wintour was reported to have issued an apology to staff for ''Vogue''{{'}}s complicity in racism, stating the magazine had "not found enough ways to elevate and give space to Black editors, writers, photographers, designers and other creators".<ref>{{Cite news|last=Ferrier|first=Morwenna|date=10 June 2020|title=Anna Wintour apologises for not giving space to black editors at Vogue|work=[[The Guardian]]|url=https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/jun/10/anna-wintour-apologises-for-not-giving-space-to-black-people-at-vogue|access-date=3 July 2020|issn=0261-3077|archive-date=3 July 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200703044954/https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/jun/10/anna-wintour-apologises-for-not-giving-space-to-black-people-at-vogue|url-status=live}}</ref> |
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In [[2003 in literature|2003]], one of her former assistants, [[Lauren Weisberger]], published the [[bestseller|bestselling]] ''[[roman à clef]]'' ''[[The Devil Wears Prada (novel)|The Devil Wears Prada]]''. Its [[antagonist]], [[Miranda Priestly]], editor of the fictional ''Runway'', was widely believed to be based on Wintour. |
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In 2020, Condé Nast promoted Wintour to the role of worldwide chief content officer, as part of a company restructuring. In addition, she will be working as global editorial director of ''Vogue''.<ref>{{Cite news|last=Coster|first=Helen|date=15 December 2020|title=Condé Nast promotes Vogue's Anna Wintour to Worldwide Chief Content Officer|language=en|work=Reuters|url=https://www.reuters.com/article/conde-nast-wintour-idUSKBN28P2BH|access-date=15 December 2020|archive-date=18 December 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201218033800/https://www.reuters.com/article/conde-nast-wintour-idUSKBN28P2BH|url-status=live}}</ref> |
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Two years later, Wintour was the subject of an unauthorized [[biography]] by [[Jerry Oppenheimer]], ''Front Row: The Cool Life and Hot Times of Vogue's Editor In Chief'', that drew on many unnamed sources, often with grudges, to paint a similar portrait of the real woman. According to Oppenheimer, Wintour not only declined his requests for an interview but directed others not to cooperate.<ref name="Oppenheimerxi">Oppenheimer, ''op. cit.'', xi</ref> This is consistent with reports that she goes to great lengths to manage her public image. When she took over as American ''Vogue'' editor, gossip columnist [[Liz Smith (journalist)|Liz Smith]] reported rumors that she had gotten the job by having an [[affair]] with Conde Nast [[chairman]] [[Si Newhouse]]. Wintour was reportedly furious and made her anger the subject of one of her first staff meetings.<ref name="Larson" /> |
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In 2023, Wintour suggested the creation of an event similar to the [[Met Gala]] in London to raise funds for the local arts scene, which has struggled to recover in the aftermath of COVID.<ref>{{Cite news |first=Morwenna |last=Ferrier |date=31 May 2023 |title=Vogue editor Anna Wintour planning London's answer to Met Gala |language=en-GB |work=The Guardian |url=https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2023/may/31/vogue-editor-anna-wintour-london-fundraiser-fashion-show-met-gala |access-date=31 May 2023 |archive-date=31 May 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230531122353/https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2023/may/31/vogue-editor-anna-wintour-london-fundraiser-fashion-show-met-gala |url-status=live }}</ref> |
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There have also been accusations that she has imposed an [[elitism|elitist]] aesthetic on the magazine, promoting celebrities over fashion personalities and making demands that even prominent subjects change their image before being featured in its pages. |
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===Personality=== |
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Wintour was appointed [[Member of the Order of the Companions of Honour]] (CH) in the [[2023 Birthday Honours]] for services to fashion.<ref>{{London Gazette|issue=64082|supp=y|page=B6|date=17 June 2023}}</ref> |
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Accounts of her personality often describe it as cold. In his autobiographical comedy "How to Make Enemies and Alienate People", British journalist Toby Young nicknamed her "Nuclear Wintour" for her icy demeanour and alleged mood swings during her tenure at British ''Vogue'', an epithet that has been widely reused.<ref name="Bee" /> |
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===Influence in fashion industry=== |
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"I think she has been very rude to a lot of people in the past, on her way up - very terse.", said the same friend the ''Observer'' quoted on the positive effect of her relationship with Bryan. "She doesn't do small talk. She is never going to be friends with her [[personal assistant|assistant]]".<ref name="Acid Queen" /> "You definitely did not ride the [[elevator]] with her", agrees a former assistant.<ref name="Stummer">Stummer, Robin; June 18, 2006; "[http://enjoyment.independent.co.uk/film/news/article1090199.ece Nuclear Wintour: The Movie]"; ''[[The Independent|The Independent on Sunday]]''; retrieved February 7, 2007.</ref> Even those who like her admit to some trepidation at her presence. "Anna happens to be a friend of mine," says Amiel, "a fact which is of absolutely no help in coping with the cold panic that grips me whenever we meet".<ref name="Amiel" /> |
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Through the years, she has come to be regarded as one of the most powerful people in fashion, setting trends and anointing new designers. Industry publicists often hear "Do you want me to go to Anna with this?" when they have differences with her subordinates.<ref name="Citizen Anna 1"/> ''[[The Guardian]]'' has called her the "unofficial mayoress" of New York City.<ref name="Unofficial mayoress">Pilkington, Ed; 5 December 2006; [https://www.theguardian.com/world/2006/dec/05/worlddispatch.usa Central Bark] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160927201404/https://www.theguardian.com/world/2006/dec/05/worlddispatch.usa |date=27 September 2016 }}; ''The Guardian''. Retrieved 6 December 2006.</ref> She has encouraged fashion houses such as [[Christian Dior]] to hire younger, fresher designers such as [[John Galliano]]. Her influence extends outside fashion. She persuaded [[Donald Trump]] to let [[Marc Jacobs]] use a ballroom at the [[Plaza Hotel]] for a show when Jacobs and his partner were short of cash. In 2006, she persuaded [[Brooks Brothers]] to hire the relatively unknown [[Thom Browne]].<ref name="Citizen Anna 1">Horyn, "Citizen Anna", 1.</ref> A protégée at ''Vogue'', [[Plum Sykes]],<ref name="Kevin Gray profile 2"/> became a successful novelist, drawing her settings from New York's fashionable élite.<ref name="Plum Sykes profile">{{cite news|last=Freeman|first=Hadley|title=Victoria's secret|url=https://www.theguardian.com/books/2004/apr/17/fiction.fashion|newspaper=The Guardian|date=17 April 2004|access-date=10 June 2010|quote=Sykes, who is 34, moved to New York from her native Britain in 1996, and has been charting the lives of Manhattan's upper classes, its Park Avenue Princesses, or PAPs, to use Sykes's phrase, ever since.|location=London, UK|archive-date=13 September 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140913121249/http://www.theguardian.com/books/2004/apr/17/fiction.fashion|url-status=live}}</ref> |
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Her salary was reported to be $2 million a year in 2005.<ref name="Who Makes How Much">26 September 2005; [https://nymag.com/guides/salary/14497/index3.html Who Makes How Much – New York's Salary Guide] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200114061518/http://nymag.com/guides/salary/14497/index3.html |date=14 January 2020 }}; ''New York''. Retrieved 3 March 2007.</ref> In addition, she receives several perks, such as a chauffeured [[Mercedes-Benz S-Class]] (both in New York and abroad), a $200,000 shopping allowance,<ref name="60 Minutes 2" /> and the Coco Chanel Suite at the [[Hotel Ritz Paris]] while attending European fashion shows.<ref name="Oppenheimer207"/> Condé Nast president [[Samuel Irving Newhouse Jr.]] had the company make her an interest-free $1.6 million loan to purchase her townhouse in [[Greenwich Village]].<ref name="Oppenheimer29">Oppenheimer, pg. 29.</ref> |
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She has just as often been described as a [[perfectionism (psychology)|perfectionist]] who routinely makes impossible, arbitrary demands of those who work for or under her and treats them unkindly ... "kitchen scissors at work", in the words of one commentator.<ref name="Slate" /> "The notion that Anna would want something done 'now' and not 'shortly' is accurate," Amiel says of ''The Devil Wears Prada''. "Anna wants what she wants right away".<ref name="Amiel Maclean's" /> She reportedly once made a junior staffer look through a photographer's [[garbage|trash]] to find a picture he had refused to give her.<ref name="Larson" /> In a frequently-retold story, a new [[intern]] at the magazine is told she must not make [[eye contact]] with Wintour or initiate conversation with her. One day in the hall, the intern sees Wintour trip and steps right over her rather than violate this [[Taboo on rulers|taboo]].<ref name="Acid Queen" /> |
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==Charity work== |
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Critics of Wintour's management style also point to a May 11, 2004 ruling by a New York court in a case brought against Wintour and Shaffer by the state [[Workers' Compensation]] Board. It sought to recover $140,000 in costs it had incurred when a former employee of the couple who had been injured on the job turned out not to have had the necessary [[insurance]] coverage. Wintour and Shaffer repeatedly failed to make payment, forcing the suit. The two were ordered to pay $104,403; an additional $32,639 was levied against Wintour herself.<ref name="TSG">Bastone, William; May 18, 2004; [http://www.thesmokinggun.com/archive/0518043anna1.html Wintour In $140,000 Worker's Comp Default]; ''[[The Smoking Gun]]''; retrieved December 10, 2006.</ref> |
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Wintour serves as a trustee of the [[Metropolitan Museum of Art]] in New York,<ref name="Met bio" /> where she has organised benefits that have raised $50 million for the museum's [[Anna Wintour Costume Center|Costume Institute]].<ref name="60 Minutes 2"/> She began the [[Council of Fashion Designers of America|CFDA]]/Vogue Fund in order to encourage, support and mentor unknown fashion designers. She has also raised over $10 million for [[HIV/AIDS|AIDS]] charities since 1990, by organising various high-profile benefits.<ref name="Met bio" /> |
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[[Image:The Devil Wears Prada cover.jpg|thumb|150px|left|Lauren Weisberger's ''roman á clef'', ''The Devil Wears Prada'', supposedly about Wintour and ''Vogue''.]] |
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==Personal life== |
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===''The Devil Wears Prada''=== |
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[[File:Anna Wintour.jpg|right|thumb|Wintour at a 2005 show|alt=Anna Wintour wearing sunglasses and a grey-and-white striped top in a dark background looking to the right]] |
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===Relationships=== |
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Weisberger's novel is told in the voice of Andrea "Andy" Sachs, a young woman fresh from college with literary ambitions who knows little about fashion when she starts a year at ''Runway'' magazine, working as the junior assistant to legendary editor [[Miranda Priestly]], who among her [[The Devil Wears Prada (novel)#Realism|other similarities]] to Wintour is British, has two young children and serves on the Met's board. Priestly is depicted as a [[tyranny|tyrant]] who makes impossible demands of her subordinates, gives them almost none of the information or time necessary to comply and then berates them for their failures to do so.<ref name="novel cite">Weisberger, Lauren; ''[[The Devil Wears Prada (novel)|The Devil Wears Prada]]'', Broadway Books, New York 2003, ISBN 0-7679-1476-7, 145</ref> Similar charges have long been made about Wintour herself by (usually unnamed) former employees. Prior to its publication, Wintour told the ''[[New York Times]]'', "I always enjoy a great piece of fiction. I haven't decided whether I am going to read it or not."<ref name="Times quote">Carr, David; February 17, 2003; [http://www.nytimes.com/2003/02/17/business/media/17MAG.html?8hpib=&pagewanted=all&position=top Anna Wintour Steps Toward Fashion's New Democracy]; ''[[The New York Times]]''; retrieved December 10, 2006.</ref> |
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Wintour began dating well-connected older men during her teens. She was briefly involved with novelist [[Piers Paul Read]] when she was 15 and he was 24.<ref name="Oppenheimer31-35">Oppenheimer, 31–35.</ref> In her later teens, she dated gossip columnist [[Nigel Dempster]] and the two became a fixture on the London club circuit.<ref name="Oppenheimer36-37">Oppenheimer, 36–37.</ref> |
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Wintour married child psychiatrist [[David Shaffer]] in 1984, and they had a son named Charles (born 1985) and a daughter named Katherine (born 1987) before divorcing in 1999. Charles is a graduate of the [[University of Oxford]] and [[Columbia College of Physicians and Surgeons]].<ref>{{Cite news|date=29 June 2014|title=Elizabeth Cordry and Charles Shaffer (Published 2014)|language=en-US|work=The New York Times|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2014/06/29/fashion/weddings/elizabeth-cordry-and-charles-shaffer.html|access-date=13 November 2020|issn=0362-4331|archive-date=13 November 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201113183752/https://www.nytimes.com/2014/06/29/fashion/weddings/elizabeth-cordry-and-charles-shaffer.html|url-status=live}}</ref> Katherine wrote occasional columns for ''[[The Daily Telegraph]]'' in 2006 and graduated from [[Columbia University]] in 2009,<ref name="Bee">Alexander, Hilary; 15 February 2006; [https://web.archive.org/web/20081220170034/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/catwalkdiaries/london/3350178/Wintour-comes-in-from-the-cold.html Wintour comes in from the cold]; ''The Daily Telegraph''. Retrieved 7 February 2007.</ref><ref>{{Cite web|title=Bee Shaffer Is Worried About Finding a Job -- New York Magazine – Nymag|url=https://nymag.com/news/intelligencer/52436/|access-date=13 November 2020|website=New York Magazine|date=31 January 2008|language=en-us|archive-date=13 November 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201113112839/https://nymag.com/news/intelligencer/52436/|url-status=live}}</ref> and is a New York-based producer with [[Ambassador Theatre Group]]. Katherine married Italian filmmaker [[Francesco Carrozzini]], son of ''[[Vogue Italia]]'' editor-in-chief [[Franca Sozzani]], in 2018.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Anna Wintour's Daughter Bee Shaffer Marries Francesco Carrozzini Again: See Her Second Wedding Dress!|url=https://people.com/style/bee-shaffer-marries-francesco-carrozzini-second-ceremony-italy/|access-date=13 November 2020|website=PEOPLE.com|language=EN|archive-date=2 February 2021|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210202044206/https://people.com/style/bee-shaffer-marries-francesco-carrozzini-second-ceremony-italy/|url-status=live}}</ref> |
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While it has been suggested that the setting and Priestly were based on ''Vogue'' and Wintour, Weisberger denies this, and even gives Wintour herself a cameo appearance near the end of the book (In her less-successful second novel, ''[[Everyone Worth Knowing]]'', the main character doesn't think she's capable of working for Wintour when her uncle suggests it<ref name="Everyone Worth Knowing">Weisberger, Lauren; ''[[Everyone Worth Knowing]]'', Downtown Press, New York, 2005, ISBN 0743262336, 37-38.</ref>). |
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Newspapers and [[gossip columnist]]s claimed that Wintour's affair with investor [[Shelby Bryan]] ended her marriage to Shaffer.<ref name="Oppenheimer340-41">Oppenheimer, 341–42,</ref> She declined to comment.<ref name="Kevin Gray profile 1">Gray, 1.</ref><ref name="Oppenheimer342">Oppenheimer, 342.</ref> A former colleague quoted in the ''[[The Observer|Observer]]'' said that Bryan "mellowed her" and that she "smiles now and has been seen to laugh".<ref name="Acid Queen">25 June 2006; "[https://www.theguardian.com/film/2006/jun/25/features.review Meet the acid queen of New York fashion] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160502165546/http://www.theguardian.com/film/2006/jun/25/features.review |date=2 May 2016 }}"; ''The Observer''. Retrieved 7 February 2007.</ref> |
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Yet it is almost universally believed that the book's success was due to the real-life angle. Neither ''Vogue'' nor any other Conde Nast publications, nor many other popular women's magazines, reviewed Weisberger's book. When the film was released, one of the company's magazines, ''[[The New Yorker]]'', ran a review of the film by [[David Denby]] that disparaged the novel in comparison.<ref name="New Yorker DWP review">[[David Denby|Denby, David]]; July 10 & 17, 2006; "[http://www.newyorker.com/critics/cinema/articles/060710crci_cinema Dressed to Kill]"; ''[[The New Yorker]]''; retrieved February 6, 2007.</ref> ''[[The New York Times]]'''s [[Janet Maslin]] avoided mentioning Wintour's name in one of the paper's two negative reviews of the book.<ref name="Maslin DWP review">[[Janet Maslin|Maslin, Janet]]; April 14, 2003; BOOKS OF THE TIMES:[http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9C02EEDF133BF937A25757C0A9659C8B63 Elegant Magazine, Avalanche Of Dirt]; ''[[The New York Times]]''; retrieved February 7, 2007.</ref> Its favorable notice of the movie mentioned neither ''Vogue'' nor Wintour.<ref name="NYT DWP film review">[[A. O. Scott|Scott, A. O.]] ; June 30, 2006; "[http://movies2.nytimes.com/2006/06/30/movies/30devi.html In 'The Devil Wears Prada,' Meryl Streep Plays the Terror of the Fashion World]"; ''[[The New York Times]]''; retrieved February 7, 2007.</ref> |
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===Residence=== |
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Wintour resides in New York City's [[Greenwich Village]].<ref name=NYT20160929>Kurutz, Steven. [https://www.nytimes.com/2016/09/29/fashion/new-york-secret-garden-anna-wintour-bob-dylan.html "What Do Anna Wintour and Bob Dylan Have in Common? This Secret Garden"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190214174225/https://www.nytimes.com/2016/09/29/fashion/new-york-secret-garden-anna-wintour-bob-dylan.html |date=14 February 2019 }}, ''The New York Times'', 28 September 2016. Accessed 3 November 2016. "The house is part of the Macdougal-Sullivan Gardens Historic District, a landmarked community of 21 row homes, with 11 lining Macdougal Street and 10 running parallel on Sullivan Street."</ref> |
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===Habits=== |
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During production of [[The Devil Wears Prada (film)|the movie]] in 2005, Wintour was reportedly pressuring prominent fashion personalities, particularly designers, not to make [[cameo appearance]]s in the movie lest they be banished from the magazine's pages, at least temporarily.<ref name="Radar">{{cite web|url=http://www.radarmagazine.com/fresh-intelligence/2005/11/09/index.php#report_004079|title=The Devil You Know, On Line One|accessdate=2006-07-01|work=Fresh Intelligence|date=2005-11-09}}</ref> She denied it through a spokesperson who said she was interested in anything that "supports fashion". But, while many designers are mentioned in the film, only one, [[Valentino Garavani]], actually appeared as himself.<ref name="Radar" /> |
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Wintour says she wakes up at 5:30 a.m., plays tennis, gets her hair and makeup done, and then arrives at the ''Vogue'' offices at 7:30 a.m. She always turns up at fashion shows well before their scheduled start, stating, "I use the waiting time to make phone calls and notes; I get some of my best ideas at the shows."<ref name="Bee" /> According to the [[BBC]] documentary series ''Boss Woman'', she rarely stays at parties for more than 20 minutes at a time and usually goes to bed by 10:15 p.m. at the latest.<ref name="Boss Woman review">{{cite news|last=Money-Coutts|first=Sophia|title=Vogue documentary tries to get a read on the chilly Wintour|url=http://www.thenational.ae/arts-culture/film/vogue-documentary-tries-to-get-a-read-on-the-chilly-wintour|work=The National|location=Abu Dhabi|publisher=Mubadala Development Company|date=2 August 2009|access-date=9 August 2009|archive-date=6 October 2012|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121006084344/http://www.thenational.ae/arts-culture/film/vogue-documentary-tries-to-get-a-read-on-the-chilly-wintour|url-status=live}}</ref> She turns off her mobile phone so as not to be disturbed while eating her lunch,<ref name="Amiel">[[Barbara Amiel|Amiel, Barbara]]; [https://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/3653567/The-Devil-I-know.html The 'Devil' I know] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201121060012/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/3653567/The-Devil-I-know.html |date=21 November 2020 }}", ''The Daily Telegraph'', 2 July 2006. Retrieved 6 February 2007.</ref> which is most often a steak or a hamburger without the bun.<ref name="Kevin Gray profile 1" /> High-protein meals have been a habit of hers for a long time. A co-worker at ''Harpers & Queen'' said that she would eat "smoked salmon and scrambled eggs" every single day and that "she would eat nothing else".<ref name="Oppenheimer81" /> |
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===Personal fashion=== |
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The film was released, in mid-2006, to great commercial success.<ref name="boxofficemojo">[http://www.boxofficemojo.com/movies/?id=devilwearsprada.htm The Devil Wears Prada] at boxofficemojo.com, retrieved February 8, 2007.</ref> Wintour attended the [[premiere]] wearing [[Prada]]. In the film, actress [[Meryl Streep]] plays a Priestly different enough from the book's to receive critical praise as an entirely original (and more sympathetic) character (although Streep's office in the film bears similarities striking enough to Wintour's<ref name="office photos">See photos of both at [http://www.oficinadeestilo.com.br/blog/wp-content/office.jpg this page], retrieved December 6, 2006.</ref> that the latter reportedly had it redecorated after the film's release<ref name="Whitworth">Whitworth, Melissa; June 9, 2006; "[http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/main.jhtml?xml=/fashion/2006/09/06/efpatricia06.xml The Devil has all the best costumes]"; ''[[The Daily Telegraph]]''; retrieved February 6, 2007.</ref>). Streep denies that her portrayal was based on Wintour, whom the actress says she only met at the first benefit screening of the film. She stated she had no interest in doing a documentary on the ''Vogue'' editor, preferring to draw her inspiration from an amalgam of [[uber|über]]bosses she had met over the years. |
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Because of her position, Wintour's wardrobe is often closely scrutinised and imitated. Earlier in her career, she mixed fashionable t-shirts and vests with [[designer jeans]]. When she started at ''Vogue'' as creative director, she switched to [[Chanel]] suits with miniskirts.<ref name="Oppenheimer207"/> She continued to wear them during both pregnancies,<ref name="Acid Queen"/> opening the skirts slightly in back and keeping her jacket on to cover up.<ref name="Oppenheimer229">Oppenheimer, 229.</ref> Wintour was listed as "one of the 50 best-dressed over 50s" by ''The Guardian'' in March 2013. Aside from sporting Chanel suits with midiskirts, she has also been seen wearing kitten heels & printed midi-dresses.<ref>{{cite news|title=The 50 best-dressed over 50s|url=https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/gallery/2013/mar/29/50-best-dressed-over-50s|newspaper=The Guardian|location=London, UK|first1=Jess|last1=Cartner-Morley|first2=Helen|last2=Mirren|first3=Arianna|last3=Huffington|first4=Valerie|last4=Amos|date=28 March 2013|access-date=11 December 2016|archive-date=10 January 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190110175602/https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/gallery/2013/mar/29/50-best-dressed-over-50s|url-status=live}}</ref> |
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According to biographer [[Jerry Oppenheimer]], her ubiquitous sunglasses are actually corrective lenses, since she has deteriorating vision as her father did. A former colleague he interviewed recalls trying on her [[Ray-Ban Wayfarer|Wayfarer]]s in her absence and getting dizzy.<ref name="Oppenheimer215-16">Oppenheimer, 215–16.</ref> "I think at this point they've become, you know, really armour", Wintour herself told ''[[60 Minutes]]'' correspondent [[Morley Safer]], explaining that they allow her to keep her reactions to a show private.<ref name="60 Minutes 3">Safer, 3.</ref> As she rebounded from the end of her marriage and the turnover in the magazine's editorial staff, a fellow editor and friend noted that "she's not hiding behind her glasses anymore. Now she's having fun again."<ref name="Kevin Gray profile 4"/> |
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Amiel reported that her first reaction was to say that the film would probably go straight to [[DVD]].<ref name="Amiel" /> It went on to make over US$ 300 million in worldwide box office receipts. Later in 2006, in an interview with [[Barbara Walters]] which aired the same day the DVD was released, Wintour said she found the film "really entertaining" and praised it for making fashion "entertaining and glamorous and interesting.... I was one hundred percent behind it".<ref name="Barbara Walters">Walters, Barbara; December 12, 2006; [http://abcnews.go.com/2020/story?id=2716887&page=3 Anna Wintour: Always in Vogue]; "The 10 Most Fascinating People of 2006"; retrieved from abcnews.go.com December 18, 2006.</ref> |
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===Politics=== |
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While Wintour may have borne no malice toward the film and those involved in it, the same may not be true regarding Weisberger. When ''[[New York Daily News|Daily News]]'' [[gossip columnist]] [[Lloyd Grove]] reported shortly before the film's release that the author was having enough trouble with her third novel (after disappointing sales of her second) that her editor suggested she completely start over, there was enough [[bitterness]] left that Wintour's spokesman Patrick O'Connell suggested she "should get a job as someone else's assistant."<ref name="Lloyd Grove">Grove, Lloyd; May 2, 2006; [http://www.nydailynews.com/news/gossip/story/413881p-349908c.html Author goes from Prada to nada]; ''[[New York Daily News|Daily News]]''; retrieved May 2, 2006.</ref> |
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Wintour has supported the [[Democratic Party of the United States|Democratic Party]] since [[US Senate career of Hillary Clinton|Hillary Clinton's 2000 Senate run]] and [[John Kerry 2004 presidential campaign|John Kerry's 2004 presidential campaign]]. She also served as a "[[Bundler (campaigning)#Bundling|bundler]]" of contributions during [[Barack Obama]]'s presidential campaigns in [[Barack Obama 2008 presidential campaign|2008]] and [[Barack Obama 2012 presidential campaign|2012]]. She co-hosted fundraisers for Obama's campaigns with [[Sarah Jessica Parker]], with one being a 50-person, $40,000-per-person dinner at Parker's [[West Village]] town house with [[Meryl Streep]], [[Michael Kors]], and advertising executive Trey Laird among the attendees. She also teamed with [[Calvin Klein]] and [[Harvey Weinstein]] on fundraisers during Obama's first term, with [[Donna Karan]] among the attendees.<ref>Peters, Jeremy W., [https://www.nytimes.com/2012/06/17/fashion/for-anna-wintour-power-is-always-in-vogue.html "Power Is Always in Vogue"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161110052133/http://www.nytimes.com/2012/06/17/fashion/for-anna-wintour-power-is-always-in-vogue.html |date=10 November 2016 }}, ''The New York Times'', 15 June 2012. Retrieved 16 June 2012.</ref> |
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[[Image:PETA anti-Anna Wintour pic.jpg|240px|right|thumb|Anti-Wintour image created and distributed by PETA to protest her continued promotion of fur in fashion.]] |
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In 2013, when ''Vogue''{{'}}s former director of communications stepped down, Wintour was rumoured to be looking to hire someone with a political background. Soon after, she hired [[Hildy Kuryk]], who worked as a fundraiser for the [[Democratic National Committee]] and Obama's 2008 campaign.<ref name=Haberman11>{{cite news|title=50 politicos to watch: Fundraisers|author=Maggie Haberman|url=http://www.politico.com/news/stories/0711/59945.html|work=[[POLITICO]]|date=28 July 2011|access-date=27 January 2014|archive-date=26 February 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140226171001/http://www.politico.com/news/stories/0711/59945.html|url-status=live}}</ref><ref name=NYT>{{cite news|title=Hildy Kuryk, Jarrod Bernstein|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2007/06/24/fashion/weddings/24kuryk.html|date=24 June 2007|access-date=27 January 2014|work=[[The New York Times]]|archive-date=2 April 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150402123158/http://www.nytimes.com/2007/06/24/fashion/weddings/24kuryk.html|url-status=live}}</ref> She supported Hillary Clinton's [[Hillary Clinton 2016 presidential campaign|2016 presidential campaign]], forming part of Clinton's long list of wealthy donors and served as Clinton's consultant on wardrobe choices for key moments of the campaign.<ref name=veronchichi>{{cite news|title=Styling Politicians in the Age of Image Wars|author=Kate Abnett|url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/styling-politicians-donald-trump-theresa-may-hillary-clinton|date=28 July 2016|access-date=28 October 2016|archive-date=29 October 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161029045622/https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/styling-politicians-donald-trump-theresa-may-hillary-clinton|url-status=live}}</ref> Wintour endorsed [[Joe Biden]] for the [[2020 United States presidential election]].<ref>{{cite magazine|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/anna-wintour-joe-biden-covid-19-the-met-gala|title=Anna Wintour on COVID-19, the Met Gala, and Why She Will Be Voting for Joe Biden|last=Wintour|first=Anna|magazine=Vogue|date=16 March 2020|access-date=24 October 2020|archive-date=24 October 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201024072635/https://www.vogue.com/article/anna-wintour-joe-biden-covid-19-the-met-gala|url-status=live}}</ref> |
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===PETA campaign=== |
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==''The Devil Wears Prada''== |
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She has often been the target of various [[animal rights]] organizations such as [[PETA]] who are angered by her use of fur in Vogue, her pro-fur editorials and her refusal to run paid advertisements from animal rights organizations. Undeterred, she continues to use fur in photo spreads. She is routinely assaulted by activists over this matter. |
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{{main|The Devil Wears Prada (novel)}} |
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[[Lauren Weisberger]], a former Wintour assistant<ref name="Weisberger autobio">{{cite web|last=Weisberger|first=Lauren|author-link=Lauren Weisberger|title=Author Lauren Weisberger|url=http://www.laurenweisberger.com/about.php|publisher=laurenweisberger.com|access-date=14 August 2009|quote=Lauren's first job after returning to the U.S. and moving to Manhattan was the Assistant to the Editor-in-Chief of Vogue, Anna Wintour.|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080224050910/http://www.laurenweisberger.com/about.php|archive-date=24 February 2008}}</ref> who left ''Vogue'' for ''[[Departures Magazine|Departures]]'' along with Richard Story, wrote ''[[The Devil Wears Prada (novel)|The Devil Wears Prada]]'' after a writing workshop he suggested she take.<ref name="2005 NYT Weisberger story">{{cite news|last=Kinetz|first=Erica|title=Devil's in the Follow-Up|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2005/11/06/fashion/sundaystyles/06LAUREN.html|newspaper=The New York Times|date=6 November 2005|access-date=19 June 2010|archive-date=29 April 2011|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110429061221/http://www.nytimes.com/2005/11/06/fashion/sundaystyles/06LAUREN.html?|url-status=live}}</ref> It was eagerly anticipated for its supposed insider portrait of Wintour prior to its publication.<ref name="Kate Betts DWP novel review">{{cite news|last=Betts|first=Kate|title=Anna Dearest|url=https://nytimes.com/2003/04/13/books/review/13BETTS2T.html|newspaper=The New York Times|date=13 April 2003|access-date=14 June 2010|quote=It's hard to get past the onslaught of [[Page Six]] gossip and film-rights buzz that has preceded ''The Devil Wears Prada,'' [[Lauren Weisberger]]'s thinly veiled [[roman à clef]] about her thankless year sidetracked in the trenches of a fashion magazine.|archive-date=26 May 2010|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100526025721/http://www.nytimes.com/2003/04/13/books/review/13BETTS2T.html|url-status=live}}</ref> Wintour told ''The New York Times'', "I always enjoy a great piece of fiction. I haven't decided whether I am going to read it or not."<ref name="Times quote">Carr, David; 17 February 2003; [https://www.nytimes.com/2003/02/17/business/media/17MAG.html Anna Wintour Steps Toward Fashion's New Democracy] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160313023818/http://www.nytimes.com/2003/02/17/business/media/17MAG.html |date=13 March 2016 }}; ''The New York Times''. Retrieved 10 December 2006.</ref> While it has been suggested that the fashion magazine setting and [[Miranda Priestly]] character were based on ''Vogue'' and Wintour, Weisberger claims she drew not only from her own experiences but those of her friends as well.<ref name="Weisberger Q & A">{{cite web|title=A Conversation With Lauren Weisberger|url=http://www.randomhouse.com/features/devilwearsprada/qanda.html|publisher=Random House|year=2004|access-date=14 August 2009|quote=Some of the stories aren't so far away from the tasks either I or my friends in various industries—whether fashion or magazines or PR or advertising—went through our first few years out of college. I imagine that assistants everywhere will recognize some of their own experiences in Andrea's life.|archive-date=24 September 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140924080426/http://www.randomhouse.com/features/devilwearsprada/qanda.html|url-status=live}}</ref> Wintour herself makes a cameo appearance near the end of the book,<ref name=Weisberger322>Weisberger, 322. "Immediately I recognized Anna Wintour, looking absolutely ravishing in a cream-colored slip dress and beaded [[Manolo Blahnik|Manolo]] sandals. She was talking animatedly to a man I presumed to be her boyfriend, although her giant Chanel sunglasses prevented me from being able to tell if she was amused, indifferent or sobbing. The press loved to compare the antics and attitudes of Anna and Miranda, but I found it impossible to believe that anyone could be quite as unbearable as my boss."</ref> where it is said she and Miranda dislike each other.<ref name="Weisberger348">Weisberger, 348. "'Maybe I should try to work for one of her enemies? They'd be happy to hire me, right' Sure. Send your resume over to Anna Wintour—they've never liked each other very much."</ref> |
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In the novel, Priestly has many similarities to Wintour—among them, she is British, has two children,<ref name="Weisberger38–9">Weisberger, 38–39. "I had Googled her and was surprised to find Miranda Priestly was born Miriam Princhek in [[East End of London|London's East End]] ... Her rough, Cockney-girl accent was soon replaced by a carefully cultivated, educated one ... She moved her two daughters and her then rock-star husband ..."</ref> and is described as a major contributor to the [[Metropolitan Museum of Art|Met]].<ref name="Weisberger267">Weisberger, 267.</ref> Priestly is a tyrant who makes impossible demands of her subordinates, gives them almost none of the information or time necessary to comply and then berates them for their failures to do so.<ref name=Weisberger145>Weisberger, 145. "''Ah yes. Mrs. Whitmore. I am a lucky girl ''indeed''. I'm so lucky, you have no idea. I can't tell you how lucky I felt when I was sent out to get tampons for my boss, only to be told that I'd bought the wrong ones and asked why I do nothing right. And luck is probably the only way to explain why I get to sort another person's sweat- and food-stained clothing each morning before eight and arrange to have it cleaned. Oh wait! I think what actually makes me luckiest of all is getting to talk to breeders all over the tristate area for three straight weeks in search of the perfect French bulldog puppy so two incredibly spoiled and unfriendly little girls can each have their own pet. Yes, that's it!''"</ref> |
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In Paris in [[October 2005]], she was hit with a [[tofu]] pie while waiting to get into the [[Chloé]] show.<ref name="USA Today">[[Associated Press]]; October 2005; [http://www.usatoday.com/life/people/2005-10-10-vogue-wintour_x.htm?POE=LIFISVA Anti-fur demonstrators hit 'Vogue' editor with a pie in Paris] ''[[USA Today]]''; retrieved December 8, 2006.</ref> She herself said she has been physically attacked so many times she's "lost count."{{Fact|date=February 2007}} She and ''Vogue'''s publisher Ron Galotti (himself the inspiration of a fictional character as Mr. Big from [[Sex and the City]]) once retaliated for a protest outside the Conde Nast offices during the company's annual [[Christmas]] party by sending down a plate of steaming, freshly cooked [[roast beef]].<ref name="Page Six">Johnson, Richard; December 19, 1997; [http://www.voguesucks.com/artwint6.gif Vogue fights PETA beef with beef]; [[Page Six]], ''[[The New York Post]]''; retrieved from voguesucks.com December 8, 2006.</ref> |
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[[Kate Betts]], who had been fired by Harper's after two years during which staffers said she tried too hard to emulate Wintour,<ref name="NY Observer Betts firing story">{{cite news|last=Jacobs|first=Alexandra|title=Good Witch Glenda Comes to Bazaar as Classy, Chilly Kate Gets Gate|url=https://observer.com/2001/06/good-witch-glenda-comes-to-bazaar-as-classy-chilly-kate-gets-gate/|work=The New York Observer|date=10 June 2001|access-date=9 October 2020|quote=[She] adopted every Anna Wintourism under the sun, down to mannerisms, posture, [a] way of carrying herself in the office, a certain way of crossing her legs, leaning on her elbow at a certain way at her desk. It was eerie, at times, how similar she acted to Anna—always sequestered in her corner office, with her two assistants perched there like little lion guard dogs.|archive-date=1 November 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201101093359/https://observer.com/2001/06/good-witch-glenda-comes-to-bazaar-as-classy-chilly-kate-gets-gate/|url-status=live}}</ref> reviewed it harshly in ''[[The New York Times Book Review]]'': |
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===Elitism=== |
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{{blockquote|Having worked at Vogue myself for eight years and having been mentored by Anna Wintour, I have to say Weisberger could have learned a few things in the year she sold her soul to the devil of fashion for $32,500. She had a ringside seat at one of the great editorial franchises in a business that exerts an enormous influence over women, but she seems to have understood almost nothing about the isolation and pressure of the job her boss was doing, or what it might cost a person like Miranda Priestly to become a character like Miranda Priestly.<ref name="Kate Betts DWP novel review" />}} |
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Priestly has some positive qualities. Andrea Sachs, the novel's main character, notes that she makes all the magazine's key editorial decisions by herself<ref name=Weisberger208>Weisberger, 208. "Miranda was as far as I could tell, a truly fantastic editor. Not a single word of copy made it into the magazine without her explicit, hard-to-obtain approval ... Although the various fashion editors called in the clothes they wanted to shoot, Miranda alone selected the looks she wanted and which models she wanted wearing each one ... [T]hat made her, in my mind, the main reason for the magazine's stunning success each month. ''Runway'' wouldn't be ''Runway'' — hell, it wouldn't be much of anything at all – without Miranda Priestly. I knew it and so did everyone else."</ref> and that she has genuine class and style.<ref name="novel cite2">Weisberger, 271–72. "I never grew tired of watching Miranda. She was the true lady and the envy of every woman in the museum that night."</ref> |
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Some critics have charged that instead of models, celebrities are becoming the face of ''Vogue''.{{Fact|date=February 2007}} Indeed, a wide range of prominent women have graced the front cover of Vogue during Wintour's tenure, from Oscar-winning actresses ([[Nicole Kidman]], [[Charlize Theron]], and [[Angelina Jolie]]) to celebrities ([[Melania Trump]] and [[Kate Winslet]]) and politicians ([[Hillary Clinton]]). |
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===Film adaptation=== |
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According to insiders, however, she has not been content to let celebrities appear on the cover, but has demanded they bow to her standards as well. [[Oprah Winfrey]] was reportedly told she would not be photographed for the cover until she lost weight, and Clinton would not appear until she stopped wearing navy blue [[suit (clothing)|suit]]s as much as she had been.<ref name="Slate" /> At the 2005 Anglomania celerbation, a ''Vogue''-sponsored salute to British fashion at the Met, Wintour is said to have gone beyond mere approval and personally chose the clothes that prominent attendees such as [[Jennifer Lopez]], [[Kate Moss]], [[Donald Trump]] and [[Diane von Furstenberg]] wore.<ref name="Acid Queen" /> "I don’t think [[Diana Vreeland|Vreeland]] had that kind of concentration", says ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]'' publisher Patrick McCarthy. "She wouldn’t have dressed Babe Paley. Nor would Babe Paley have let her".<ref name="Citizen Anna" /> |
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{{Further|The Devil Wears Prada (film)}} |
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During the production of ''[[The Devil Wears Prada (film)|The Devil Wears Prada]]'' in 2005, Wintour was reportedly threatening prominent fashion personalities, particularly designers, that ''Vogue'' would not cover them if they made cameo appearances in the film as themselves.<ref name="Radar">{{cite web|url=https://radaronline.com/exclusives/2008/01/the-devil-you-know-on-line-one-php/|title=The Devil You Know, On Line One|date=30 January 2008|website=[[Radar Online]]|orig-year=November 2005|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140703030434/https://radaronline.com/exclusives/2008/01/the-devil-you-know-on-line-one-php/|archive-date=3 July 2014|url-status=live|access-date=25 June 2010}}</ref> She denied it through a spokesperson who said she was interested in anything that "supports fashion". Many designers are mentioned in the film. Only one, [[Valentino (designer)|Valentino Garavani]], appeared as himself.<ref name="Radar" /> |
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The film was released, in mid-2006, to great commercial success.<ref name="boxofficemojo">[https://www.boxofficemojo.com/movies/?id=devilwearsprada.htm The Devil Wears Prada] {{Webarchive|url=http://archive.wikiwix.com/cache/20110223131033/http://www.boxofficemojo.com/movies/?id=devilwearsprada.htm |date=23 February 2011 }} at boxofficemojo.com. Retrieved 8 February 2007.</ref> Wintour attended the première wearing [[Prada]]. In the film, actress [[Meryl Streep]] plays Priestly different enough from the book to receive critical praise as an entirely original (and more sympathetic) character.<ref name="NYT DWP film review">{{cite news|last=Scott|first=A.O.|author-link=A.O. Scott|title=In 'The Devil Wears Prada,' Meryl Streep Plays the Terror of the Fashion World|url=https://movies.nytimes.com/2006/06/30/movies/30devi.html|newspaper=The New York Times|date=30 June 2006|access-date=15 June 2010|quote=No longer simply the incarnation of evil, she is now a vision of aristocratic, purposeful and surprisingly human grace ... And the movie, while noting that she can be sadistic, inconsiderate and manipulative, is unmistakably on Miranda's side| archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20100705061254/http://movies.nytimes.com/2006/06/30/movies/30devi.html| archive-date= 5 July 2010 | url-status=live}}</ref><ref name="UK Indepdendent review">{{cite news|last=Quinn|first=Anthony|title=Claws out, dressed to kill|url=http://enjoyment.independent.co.uk/film/reviews/article1808686.ece |newspaper=The Independent|date=6 October 2006|access-date=15 June 2010|quote=[Streep] may just have given us a classic here |archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20061108015222/http://enjoyment.independent.co.uk/film/reviews/article1808686.ece |archive-date = 8 November 2006 |url-status=dead|location=London}}</ref> (Streep's office in the film was similar enough to Wintour's that Wintour reportedly had hers redecorated.<ref name="Whitworth">{{cite news|last=Whitworth |first=Melissa |title=The Devil has all the best costumes |url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/3355862/The-Devil-has-all-the-best-costumes.html |newspaper=The Daily Telegraph |date=9 June 2006 |access-date=6 February 2007 |quote=... after seeing the film, Wintour apparently decided to redecorate her office because the film set was almost an exact replica. |location=London |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081220170043/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/3355862/The-Devil-has-all-the-best-costumes.html |archive-date=20 December 2008 }}</ref>) |
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Another writer for the magazine complained that Wintour excluded ordinary working women, many of whom are regular subscribers, from the pages. "She's obsessed only about reflecting the aspirations of a certain class of reader," the writer says." "We once had a piece about [[breast cancer]] which started with an [[flight attendant|airline stewardess]], but she wouldn't have a stewardess in the magazine so we had to go and look for a high-flying businesswoman who'd had cancer."<ref name="Slate" /> |
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Wintour reportedly said the film would probably go straight-to-DVD.<ref name="Amiel"/> It made over $300 million in worldwide box-office receipts. Later in 2006, in an interview with [[Barbara Walters]] that aired the day of the DVD's release, Wintour said she found the film "really entertaining" and praised it for making fashion "entertaining and glamorous and interesting ... I was 100 percent behind it."<ref name="Barbara Walters">{{cite news|last=Walter|first=Barbara|title=Anna Wintour: Always in Vogue|url=https://abcnews.go.com/2020/story?id=2716887&page=3|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20061213224316/https://abcnews.go.com/2020/story?id=2716887&page=3|url-status=dead|archive-date=13 December 2006|work=ABC News|date=12 December 2006|access-date=18 December 2006}}</ref> |
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Wintour has been accused of exercising her power to set herself apart even from ostensible peers. "I do not think fiction could surpass the reality", an unnamed British fashion magazine editor says of ''The Devil Wears Prada''. "[A]rt in this instance is only a poor imitation of life." Wintour, the editor says, routinely requests that her seats at New York fashion shows are located such that she is not only separated from competing editors but cannot even see or be seen by them, either.<ref name="Acid Queen" /> Further, |
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<blockquote> |
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We spend our working lives telling people which it-bag to carry but Anna is so above the rest of us she does not even have a [[handbag]]. She has a limo. And she has her walkers [[André Leon Talley]] and Hamish Bowles, whose main job is to carry her bits around for her.<ref name="Acid Queen" /> |
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</blockquote> |
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Amiel confirms this practice. "Why she has this routine I don't know. Certainly it unnerves females ... Obviously it is part of the persona".<ref name="Amiel Maclean's" /> |
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That opinion of the film has not yet led her to forgive Weisberger.<ref name="Oppenheimer328">Oppenheimer, 328.</ref> When it was reported that the novelist's editor told her to start her third novel over, Wintour's spokesman suggested she "should get a job as someone else's assistant."<ref name="Lloyd Grove">{{cite news|last=Grove |first=Lloyd |author-link=Lloyd Grove |title=Author Goes From 'Prada' To Nada |url=http://www.nydailynews.com/archives/gossip/2006/05/02/2006-05-02_author_goes_from__prada__to_.html |newspaper=Daily News|location=New York |date=2 May 2006 |access-date=24 June 2010 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090614065406/http://www.nydailynews.com/archives/gossip/2006/05/02/2006-05-02_author_goes_from__prada__to_.html |archive-date=14 June 2009 }}</ref> |
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Some of her intercessions on behalf of designers, particularly [[Georgina Chapman]] (currently dating film mogul [[Harvey Weinstein]]), have also been criticized as being motivated by personal connections rather than talent. By persuading designers to loan clothes to prominent [[socialite]]s and celebrities, who are then photographed wearing the clothes not only in ''Vogue'' but more general-interest magazines like ''[[People (magazine)|People]]'' and ''[[Us (magazine)|Us]]'', which in turn influence what buyers want, some in the industry believe Wintour is exerting too much control over it, especially since she is not involved in making or producing clothes herself. "The end result is that Anna can control it all the way to the selling floor", says Candy Pratts Price, executive fashion director at [[style.com]].<ref name="Citizen Anna" /> |
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Oppenheimer suggests ''The Devil Wears Prada'' may have done Wintour a favour by increasing her name recognition. "Besides giving Weisberger her [[15 minutes of fame|fifteen minutes]]", he says, "[it] ... place[d] Anna squarely in the mainstream celebrity pantheon. [She] was now known and talked about over Big Macs and french fries under the Golden Arches by young [[fashion victim|fashionistas]] in Wal-Mart denim in [[Davenport, Iowa|Davenport]] and [[Dubuque, Iowa|Dubuque]]."<ref name="Oppenheimer328" /> |
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===Responses=== |
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When ''The September Issue'' was released three years later, critics compared it with the earlier, fictional film. "For the past year or so, she's been on the media warpath to win back her image", said Paul Schrodt in ''[[Slant Magazine]]''.<ref name="Slant review">{{cite web|last=Schrodt|first=Paul|title=The September Issue|website=[[Slant Magazine]]|url=https://www.slantmagazine.com/film/film_review.asp?ID=4472|date=27 August 2009|access-date=7 September 2009|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090829062322/http://www.slantmagazine.com/film/film_review.asp?ID=4472|archive-date=29 August 2009}}</ref> Many considered the question of how similar she was to Streep's Priestly, and praised the film for showing the real person. [[Manohla Dargis]] at ''The New York Times'' said that Priestly had helped humanise Wintour, and "the documentary continues this".<ref name="Dargis SI review">{{cite news|last=Dargis|first=Manohla|author-link=Manohla Dargis|title=The Cameras Zoom In on Fashion's Empress|url=https://movies.nytimes.com/2009/08/28/movies/28issue.html|work=The New York Times|date=28 August 2009|access-date=6 September 2009|archive-date=31 August 2009|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090831133416/http://movies.nytimes.com/2009/08/28/movies/28issue.html?|url-status=live}}</ref> "The movie offers insights that lift it beyond a realist version of ''The Devil Wears Prada''", agreed Mary Pols in ''[[Time (magazine)|Time]]''.<ref name="Time SI review">{{cite magazine|last=Pols|first=Mary|title=''The September Issue'': Humanizing the Devil|url=http://www.time.com/time/arts/article/0,8599,1918962,00.html|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090830035531/http://www.time.com/time/arts/article/0,8599,1918962,00.html|url-status=dead|archive-date=30 August 2009|magazine=Time|date=28 August 2009|access-date=6 September 2009}}</ref> |
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Wintour has rarely, if ever, personally responded to criticisms of her, as most critics have been her employees or others with something to gain by remaining in her favor. But there have been a few defenses from other quarters. Amanda Fortini at ''[[Slate (magazine)|Slate]]'' said she was just fine with Wintour's elitism since that was intrinsic to fashion and, ultimately, good for the magazine's readers: |
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{{quote|In a sea of women's glossies that purport to be about fashion but publish earnest articles chronicling the author's quest for self-actualization, ''Vogue'' stands apart. The voluminous fashion pages are arty, original, and sophisticated, shot by talented photographers like [[Annie Leibovitz]], [[Irving Penn]], and [[Steven Meisel]]. Most of us read ''Vogue'' not with the intention of buying the wildly expensive clothes, but because doing so educates our eye and hones our taste, similar to the way eating gourmet food refines the [[palate]]. This is a pleasure enabled by Wintour's ruthless aesthetic, her refusal to participate in the democratizing tendency of most of her competitors. To deny her that privilege is to deny her readers the privilege of fantasy in the form of beautifully photographed [[Paris]] couture.<ref name="Slate" />}} |
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The film version of the Weisberger novel (screenplay penned by Aline Brosh McKenna) has not been the only film to have a character borrowing some aspects of Wintour. [[Edna Mode]]'s similar hairstyle in ''[[The Incredibles]]'' (2004) has been noted,<ref name="Observer September issue article" /><ref name="What lies beneath" /> [[Johnny Depp]] said he partially based the demeanour of [[Willy Wonka]] in ''[[Charlie and the Chocolate Factory (film)|Charlie and the Chocolate Factory]]'' (2005) on Wintour.<ref name="Johnny Depp in Time">{{cite magazine |author=Rebecca Winters |date=26 June 2005 |title=Just a Couple of Eccentrics |url=http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,1077302,00.html |url-status=dead |magazine=Time |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100726232831/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0%2C9171%2C1077302%2C00.html |archive-date=26 July 2010 |access-date=24 June 2010}}</ref> [[Fey Sommers]] in ''[[Ugly Betty]]'' (2006–2010) was also likened to Wintour, from the trademark bob and sunglasses, to Wintour's last name homophonous with 'Winter', while Sommers' is homophonous with 'Summer'.<ref name="Seattle P-I Ugly Betty review">{{cite news |last=McFarland |first=Melanie |date=28 September 2006 |title=On TV: 'Ugly Betty' tackles the cruel fashion world with grace |work=Seattle Post-Intelligencer |url=http://www.seattlepi.com/tv/286670_tv28.html |access-date=17 August 2009 |quote=Family love steels her against what she has to face on her job at Mode magazine, which lost its Anna Wintour-like leader Fey Sommers in a car accident.}}</ref> |
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Responses to horror stories about her treatment of employees have frequently been met with charges of [[sexism]], that similar behavior from a male boss would seem unremarkable. "Powerful women in the media always get inspected more thoroughly than their male counterparts", said the ''New York Times'' in a piece about Wintour shortly after the film's release.<ref name="Times Wintour film piece">Carr, David; July 10, 2006; "[http://plainsfeminist.blogspot.com/2006/07/devil-you-say.html The Devil Wears Teflon]"; ''The New York Times'', retrieved from plainsfeminist.blogspot.com December 10, 2006.</ref> Wintour has been likened to [[Martha Stewart]] and fellow Condé Nast editor [[Tina Brown]], both of whom also have been described as overbearing and abusive to those who work for them. |
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==Criticism== |
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Some of her defenders have even seen her as [[feminism|feminist]] whose changes to ''Vogue'' have actually in a small way reflected, acknowledged and reinforced advances in the status of women. In a nominal review of Oppenheimer's book in the ''[[Washington Monthly]]'', [[managing editor]] Christina Larson notes that ''Vogue'', unlike many other women's magazines, doesn't play to its readership's sense of inadequacy: |
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In 2005, two years after ''The Devil Wears Prada'', Oppenheimer's ''Front Row: The Cool Life and Hot Times of Vogue's Editor in Chief'' was published. It painted a similar portrait of the real woman. According to Oppenheimer, Wintour not only declined his requests for an interview but discouraged others from talking to him.<ref name="Oppenheimerxi">Oppenheimer, ''xi''</ref> |
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{{quote|Unlike its glossy peers on the newsstand, it isn't loaded with tips to flatten your [[Human abdomen|abs]], flaunt your [[cleavage]], or squeeze into your thin jeans by Friday; it assumes you need no help mastering love moves no man can resist. It doesn't purport to solve problems, to help you feel less guilty. Instead, it reminds women to take satisfaction, parading all manner of fineries (clothes, furniture, travel destinations) that a successful woman might buy, or at least admire. While it surely exists to sell ads — which it does remarkably well — it does so primarily by exploiting ambition, not insecurity.<ref name="Larson" />}} |
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She contrasts Vreeland's Vogue with Wintour's by noting how the former treated female beauty as something innate, whereas Wintour showed how it could be created. "She shifted ''Vogue'''s focus from the cult of beauty to the cult of the creation of beauty ... Beyond whisking models off their pedestals, the concept that grace is a construction, and not merely a gift, allows that it can be enjoyed longer, well past the age of 40 or 50".<ref name="Larson" /> To her, the focus on celebrities is a welcome development as it means that women are making the cover of ''Vogue'' at least in part for what they have accomplished, not just how they look. "Wintour's ''Vogue'' allows women to imagine a world, increasingly an attainable one, in which the pursuit of beauty reinforces rather than overshadows female authority", she concludes.<ref name="Larson" /> |
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===Personality=== |
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Concerns about her role as an ''[[eminence grise]]'' of the fashion world are allayed by those familiar with how she uses that power, who say she is not manipulative. "She’s honest. She tells you what she thinks. Yes is yes and no is no", according to [[Karl Lagerfeld]]. "She’s not too pushy" agrees [[François-Henri Pinault]], [[chief executive officer]] of [[PPR (company)|PPR]], [[Gucci]]'s parent company. "She lets you know it’s not a problem if you can’t do something she wants. But she makes you understand that if you could, she would be very supportive with her magazine." |
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Wintour is often described as emotionally distant by those who have come to know her well, even her close friends. "At some stage in her career, Anna Wintour stopped being Anna Wintour and became 'Anna Wintour,' at which point, like wings of a stately home, she closed off large sections of her personality to the public", wrote ''[[The Guardian]]''.<ref name="What lies beneath" /> "I think she enjoys not being completely approachable. Just her office is very intimidating. You have to walk about a mile into the office before you get to her desk and I'm sure it's intentional", Coddington says.<ref name="60 Minutes 2" /> "I don't find her to be accessible to people she doesn't need to be accessible to", agrees ''Vogue'' publisher Tom Florio.<ref name="TSI 11:55">''The September Issue'', 0:11.</ref> |
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[[File:Anna Wintour Shankbone 2010 NYC.jpg|thumb|upright|Wintour at the ''[[Vanity Fair (magazine)|Vanity Fair]]'' party for the 2010 [[Tribeca Film Festival]]]] |
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She has said she admired her father Charles, known as "Chilly Charlie"<ref name="Kevin Gray profile 3" /><ref name="60 Minutes 3" /> for being "inscrutable".<ref name="Oppenheimer243" /> Former coworkers told Oppenheimer of a similar aloofness on her part. But she is also known for volatile outbursts of displeasure, and the widely used "Nuclear Wintour" sobriquet is a result of both. She dislikes it enough to have asked ''The New York Times'' not to use it.<ref name="Oppenheimer243" /> "There are times I get quite angry", she admitted in ''The September Issue''.<ref name="TSI 1:11">''The September Issue'', 1:11.</ref> |
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"I think she has been very rude to a lot of people in the past, on her way up – very terse", a friend told ''The Observer''. "She doesn't do small talk. She is never going to be friends with her assistant."<ref name="Acid Queen" /> Junior staff at ''Vogue'' are said to understand, through unwritten rules, that they should not initiate interactions with her; it has been said that they are discouraged from riding an elevator with her, and if they do, should not speak to her, though Wintour has called this an exaggeration.<ref name="60 Minutes 2" /><ref name="Stummer">Stummer, Robin; 18 June 2006; "[https://web.archive.org/web/20081224022430/http://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/films/news/nuclear-wintour-the-movie-404514.html Nuclear Wintour: The Movie]"; ''The Independent on Sunday''. Retrieved 7 February 2007.</ref> In a 1999 profile, journalist Kevin Gray observed that one staffer appeared "panic stricken" when she realised she would have to be in the elevator with Wintour. Gray also reports that another employee told him that she once saw Wintour trip in a hallway, walked past her without offering assistance, and was later told she "did {{em|absolutely}} the right thing."<ref name="Kevin Gray profile 2" /> |
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Her defenders also suggest her power over the industry is neither as vindictively applied, nor as absolute, as is often believed. She continued to support Gucci despite her strong belief PPR was making a major mistake letting [[Tom Ford]] go. Designers such as [[Alice Roi]] and [[Isabel Toledo]] have become rising stars in the industry without indulging Wintour or ''Vogue''.<ref name="Citizen Anna" /> |
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Even friends admit to some trepidation in her presence. "Anna happens to be a friend of mine", says [[Barbara Amiel]], "a fact which is of absolutely no help in coping with the cold panic that grips me whenever we meet."<ref name="Amiel" /> "I know when to stop pushing her", says Coddington. "She doesn't know when to stop pushing me."<ref name="TSI 32">''The September Issue'', 32:15.</ref> |
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She has also earned praise for her tenacity. "Once a friend, that's it", Amiel quotes Talley as saying, after Wintour helped him overcome a serious [[obesity|weight problem]]. Amiel herself agrees that "her singular quality is one of loyalty".<ref name="Amiel Maclean's" /> This carries over into her professional life. Her willingness to throw her weight around has helped keep ''Vogue'' independent despite its heavy reliance on advertising dollars. Wintour was the only fashion editor who refused to follow an [[Armani]] [[ultimatum]] to feature more of its clothes in the magazine's editorial pages if it was running the company's ads.<ref name="Acid Queen" /> |
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She has often been described as a perfectionist who routinely makes impossible, arbitrary demands of subordinates: "kitchen scissors at work", in the words of one commentator.<ref name="Slate" /> She once made a junior staffer look through a photographer's trash to find a picture he had refused to give her.<ref name="Larson" /> In a deleted scene from ''The September Issue'', she complains about the "horrible white plastic buckets" of ice behind the bars at the CFDA's 7th on Sale AIDS benefit and moves them out of sight.<ref name="TSI deleted scene">''The September Issue'', "7th on Sale" 4:30.</ref> "The notion that Anna would want something done 'now' and not 'shortly' is accurate", Amiel says of ''The Devil Wears Prada''. "Anna wants what she wants right away."<ref name="Amiel Maclean's">{{Cite web|url=https://archive.macleans.ca/article/2006/7/1/this-devil-isnt-anna|title=This devil isn't Anna|last=Amiel|first=Barbara|author-link=Barbara Amiel|date=30 June 2006|website=[[Maclean's]]|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190412015316/https://archive.macleans.ca/article/2006/7/1/this-devil-isnt-anna|archive-date=12 April 2019|url-status=live|access-date=8 February 2007}}</ref> A longtime assistant says, "She throws you in the water and you'll either sink or swim."<ref name="Oppenheimer192">Oppenheimer, 192.</ref> |
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Even ''The Devil Wears Prada'' is not without some admiration for Wintour/Priestly. Weisberger, through Andy, notes that she does manage the difficult task of making all the major editorial decisions in a major fashion magazine every month all by herself<ref name="novel cite1">Weisberger, ''op. cit.'', 208.</ref> and that she does have genuine class and style.<ref name="novel cite2">Weisberger, ''op. cit.'', 271-21.</ref> |
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[[Peter Braunstein]], a former ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]'' media reporter convicted of sexually assaulting a coworker, allegedly planned to kill Wintour because of perceived slights. After receiving only one ticket to the 2002 ''Vogue'' Fashion Awards, which he perceived as a snub, his anger cost him his job.<ref name="Braunstein NY Daily News">{{Cite news|url=https://www.nydailynews.com/news/crime/fiend-dream-slay-style-queen-article-1.251890|title=Fiend dream to slay the style queen|last1=Ross|first1=Barbara|date=15 May 2007|work=[[New York Daily News]]|access-date=15 May 2007|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180415214053/https://www.nydailynews.com/news/crime/fiend-dream-slay-style-queen-article-1.251890|archive-date=15 April 2018|url-status=live|last2=Siemaszko|first2=Corky}}</ref> |
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==In popular culture== |
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On one occasion she had to pay for her treatment of employees. In 2004, a court ruled that she and Shaffer were to pay $104,403, and Wintour herself an additional $32,639, to settle a lawsuit brought against them by the New York State [[Workers' Compensation]] Board. They had failed to pay the $140,000 judgement against them by a former employee of theirs (not the magazine) injured on the job, who did not have the necessary insurance coverage.<ref name="TSG">Bastone, William; 18 May 2004; [http://www.thesmokinggun.com/archive/0518043anna1.html Wintour In $140,000 Worker's Comp Default] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20061230235852/http://www.thesmokinggun.com/archive/0518043anna1.html |date=30 December 2006 }}; ''The Smoking Gun''. Retrieved 10 December 2006.</ref> |
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*[[Edna Mode]], in the [[2004 in film|2004]] hit [[animation|animated]] film ''[[The Incredibles]]'', was believed to have been at least partially inspired by Wintour, due to the similar bob haircut. |
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In the 2000s, her relationship with Bryan was credited with softening her personality at work. "Even when she's in a bad mood, she has a different posture [...] is that she's so much more mellow and easier to work for", someone described as a "Wintour watcher" told ''[[The New York Observer]]'' in 2000.<ref name="NY Observer Plum Sykes story2" /> |
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*The HBO series ''[[Tracey Takes On]]'', starring [[Tracey Ullman]], also featured a similar Anna Wintour character. |
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===Pro-fur stance=== |
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*Wintour is referenced in another HBO series, ''[[Sex and the City]]'', when [[Carrie Bradshaw]] is interviewed for a job at Vogue. Carrie gets drunk with an editor in his Vogue office, who tries to subtly help the tipsy Bradshaw make her way out of the building. On her way she bumps in to a female employee and, embarrassed, says "please tell me that wasn't Anna Wintour". |
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She has often been the target of [[animal rights]] organisations like [[PETA]], who are angered by her use of fur in ''Vogue'', her pro-fur editorials and her refusal to run paid advertisements from animal rights organisations. Undeterred, she continues to use fur in photo spreads, saying there is always a way to wear it.<ref name="TSI 5:33">''The September Issue'', 0:05.</ref> "Nobody was wearing fur until she put it on the cover in the early 1990s", says ''Vogue'' co-worker Tom Florio. "She ignited the entire industry."<ref name="TSI 9:25">''The September Issue'', 0:09</ref> |
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She has "lost count" of the times she has been physically attacked by activists.<ref name="Lost count">{{cite news|title=Fashion Diary: Why She's the No. 1 Target in the Glamour Business|last=Trebay|first=Guy|date=27 February 2006|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2006/02/27/fashion/shows/why-shes-the-no-1-target-in-the-glamour-business.html|work=The New York Times|access-date=9 August 2009|archive-date=12 February 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180212141833/http://www.nytimes.com/2006/02/27/fashion/shows/why-shes-the-no-1-target-in-the-glamour-business.html|url-status=live}}</ref> In Paris in October 2005, she was hit with a tofu pie while waiting to get into the [[Chloé]] show.<ref name="USA Today">{{cite news|agency=Associated Press|title=Anti-fur demonstrators hit 'Vogue' editor with a pie in Paris|url=https://www.usatoday.com/life/people/2005-10-10-vogue-wintour_x.htm|newspaper=USA Today|date=10 October 2005|access-date=24 June 2010|archive-date=16 October 2010|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101016034936/http://www.usatoday.com/life/people/2005-10-10-vogue-wintour_x.htm|url-status=live}}</ref> On another occasion, an activist dumped a dead raccoon on her plate at a restaurant; she told the waiter to remove it.<ref name="Kevin Gray profile 1" /> She and ''Vogue'' publisher [[Ron Galotti]] once retaliated for a protest outside the Condé Nast offices during the company's annual Christmas party by sending down a plate of roast beef.<ref name="Page Six">{{cite news|last=Johnson|first=Richard|title=Vogue fights PETA beef with beef|url=http://www.voguesucks.com/artwint6.gif|date=19 December 1997|access-date=24 June 2010|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20091001013700/http://www.voguesucks.com/artwint6.gif|archive-date=1 October 2009|url-status=dead}}</ref> |
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*''[[Ugly Betty]]'''s character Fey Sommers shares some characteristics as Wintour, such as the bob and sunglasses, being the editor of a fashion magazine, and having a last name that sound like a season. Wintour is also referenced in the series after [[Bradford Meade]] is arrested and [[Wilhelmina Slater]] is poised to take over as Editor-in-Cheif of the magazine. Wilhelmina is informed by her assistant that Wintour called with an invitation to lunch, which Wilhelmina declines. |
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Others outside of the animal rights community have raised the fur issue. Fashion journalist [[Peter Braunstein]] wrote in his manifesto that she would go to a hell guarded by large rats, where it would be so warm she would not need to wear fur.<ref name="Braunstein">{{cite news|title=Peter Braunstein wrote about killing Vogue editor |url=http://abclocal.go.com/wabc/story?section=news/local&id=5303570 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110629034329/http://abclocal.go.com/wabc/story?section=news%2Flocal&id=5303570 |url-status=dead |archive-date=29 June 2011 |publisher=WABC-TV |location=New York |date=14 May 2007 |access-date=24 June 2010 }}</ref> [[Pamela Anderson]], in an early 2008 interview, said Wintour was the living person she most despised "because she bullies young designers and models to use and wear fur."<ref name="Anderson">{{cite web|title=Pamela Anderson's bedroom heels |url=http://www.monstersandcritics.com/people/news/article_1387861.php |work=Monsters and Critics |date=22 January 2008 |access-date=24 June 2010 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081224212535/http://www.monstersandcritics.com/people/news/article_1387861.php |archive-date=24 December 2008 }}</ref> |
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*There are several references of Anna throughout [[Robert Altman|Robert Altman's]] [[1994]] film "[[Prêt-à-Porter (film)|Prêt-à-Porter]]"; on the featured fashion shows, fashion critics sitting on the front row wear sunglasses. The fictional fashion editor, Regina Krumm (played by [[Linda Hunt]]) has a similar haircut style. |
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===Elitism=== |
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Another common criticism of Wintour's editorship focuses on ''Vogue''{{'s}} increasing use of celebrities on the cover, and her insistence on making them meet her standards.<ref name="Slate" /><ref name="Acid Queen" /><ref name="Celebrities on cover">Derrick, Robin; 6 November 2006; [https://web.archive.org/web/20090619222544/http://www.independent.co.uk/news/media/in-vogue--for-90-years-423221.html In 'Vogue' for 90 Years]; ''The Independent''. Retrieved 12 August 2009.</ref><ref name="Intelligencer">Landman, Beth, and Mitchell, Deborah; 28 September 1998; [https://nymag.com/nymetro/news/people/columns/intelligencer/3206/index.html But Can Oprah Fit Into Alaia?] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190714154212/http://nymag.com/nymetro/news/people/columns/intelligencer/3206/index.html |date=14 July 2019 }}; ''New York''. Retrieved 2 March 2007.</ref> She reportedly told [[Oprah Winfrey]] to lose weight before her cover photograph. Likewise, [[Hillary Clinton]] was told not to wear a blue suit.<ref name="Slate" /> At the 2005 Anglomania celebration, a ''Vogue''-sponsored salute to British fashion at the Met, Wintour is said to have personally chosen the clothes for prominent attendees such as [[Jennifer Lopez]], [[Kate Moss]], [[Donald Trump]], and [[Diane von Fürstenberg]].<ref name="Acid Queen" /> "I don't think [[Diana Vreeland|Vreeland]] had that kind of concentration", says ''Women's Wear Daily'' publisher Patrick McCarthy. "She wouldn't have dressed [[Babe Paley]]. Nor would Babe Paley have let her." By persuading designers to lend clothes to prominent socialites and celebrities, who are then photographed wearing the clothes not only in ''Vogue'' but more general-interest magazines like ''[[People (magazine)|People]]'' and ''[[Us (magazine)|Us]]'', which in turn influence what buyers want, some in the industry believe Wintour is exerting too much control over it, especially since she is not involved in making or producing clothes herself. "The end result is that Anna can control it all the way to the selling floor", says Candy Pratts Price, executive fashion director at [[Style.com]].<ref name="Citizen Anna 22"/> She has been credited with killing [[Grunge#Clothing and fashion|grunge fashion]] in the early 1990s, when it was not selling well, by telling designers if they continued to avoid glamour their looks would not be photographed for ''Vogue''. All complied.<ref name="Kevin Gray profile 4" /> |
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[[File:Anna Wintour 2.jpg|thumb|upright|Wintour (photographed by Ed Kavishe of Fashion Wire Press<!-- inline credit is required under the release for this image -->) often insists on being seated apart from other fashion editors at shows.|alt=A seated woman wearing a white dress, holding a coffee cup and sunglasses, looking at the camera. The surrounding seats are empty.]] |
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Another ''Vogue'' writer has complained Wintour excluded ordinary working women, many of whom are regular subscribers, from the pages. "She's obsessed only about reflecting the aspirations of a certain class of reader", she says. "We once had a piece about breast cancer which started with an [[flight attendant|airline stewardess]], but she wouldn't have a stewardess in the magazine so we had to go and look for a high-flying businesswoman who'd had cancer."<ref name="Slate" /> |
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Wintour has been accused of setting herself apart even from peers. "I do not think fiction could surpass the reality", a British fashion magazine editor says of ''The Devil Wears Prada''. "[A]rt in this instance is only a poor imitation of life." Wintour, the editor says, routinely requests to be seated out of sight of competing editors at shows. "We spend our working lives telling people which it-bag to carry but Anna is so above the rest of us she does not even have a handbag."<ref name="Acid Queen" /> |
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At [[Milan Fashion Week]] in 2008, she requested that some key shows be rescheduled for earlier in the week so she and other U.S.-based editors could have time to return home before the Paris shows. This led to complaints. Other editors said they had to rush through the earlier shows, and lesser-known designers who had to show later were denied an important audience. [[Dolce & Gabbana]] said Italian fashion was getting short shrift and Milan was becoming a "circus without sense".<ref name="Italian fashion complaints">Moore, Malcolm; 22 February 2008; "[https://web.archive.org/web/20100528014419/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/labels/dolcegabbana/3364542/Dolce-and-Gabbana-slams-Milan-Fashion-Week.html Dolce & Gabbana slams Milan Fashion Week]"; ''The Daily Telegraph''. Retrieved 23 February 2008.</ref> |
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[[Giorgio Armani]], who at the time was co-chairing a Met exhibition on superheroes' costumes with Wintour, drew some attention for his personal remarks. "Maybe what she thinks is a beautiful dress, I wouldn't think was a beautiful dress", he said. While he claimed he could not understand why people disliked her, saying he himself was indifferent, he expressed hope she had not made a comment once attributed to her that "the Armani era is over". He accused her of preferring [[French fashion|French]] and American fashion over Italian.<ref name="Armani comments">Peck, Sally; 21 February 2008; "[https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/1579440/Giorgio-Armani-attacks-Vogues-Anna-Wintour.html Giorgio Armani attacks Vogue's Anna Wintour] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161229025036/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/1579440/Giorgio-Armani-attacks-Vogues-Anna-Wintour.html |date=29 December 2016 }}"; ''The Daily Telegraph''. Retrieved 23 February 2008.</ref> [[Geoffrey Beene]], who stopped inviting Wintour to shows after she stopped writing about him, called her "a boss lady in four-wheel drive who ignores or abandons those who do not fuel her tank. As an editor, she has turned class into mass, taste into waste."<ref name="Kevin Gray profile 4" /> |
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Her remarks about [[obesity]] have caused controversy on more than one occasion. In 2005, Wintour was heavily criticised by the New York chapter of the [[National Association to Advance Fat Acceptance]] after ''Vogue'' editor-at-large [[André Leon Talley]] said on ''[[The Oprah Winfrey Show]]'', at one point, Wintour demanded he lose weight. "Most of the ''Vogue'' girls are so thin, tremendously thin", he said, "because Miss Anna don't like fat people."<ref>''Pittsburgh Tribune-Review''; 19 September 2005; "[http://www.pittsburghlive.com/x/pittsburghtrib/s_375745.html Vogue fat comment raises group's ire] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071114152307/http://www.pittsburghlive.com/x/pittsburghtrib/s_375745.html |date=14 November 2007 }}"; United Press International. Retrieved 18 October 2007.</ref> In 2009, residents of [[Minneapolis]] took umbrage after she told ''[[60 Minutes]]'' she could "only kindly describe most of the people I saw as little houses."<ref>{{cite magazine |url=https://www.thecut.com/2009/05/60_minutes_outtakes_anna_winto.html |title=60 Minutes Outtakes: Anna Wintour on Fur, Photoshop, and Obese People |last=Odell |first =Amy | magazine=[[New York Magazine]] |date= 18 May 2009 |accessdate=20 July 2024 }}</ref> They noted their city had been named the third fittest in the nation that year by ''[[Men's Fitness]]'' while New York had been named the fifth fattest.<ref name="little houses">{{cite news|last=Fryer|first=Joe|title='Vogue' editor likens Minnesotans to 'little houses'|url=http://www.kare11.com/news/news_article.aspx?storyid=718530&catid=14|publisher=KARE|date=20 May 2009|access-date=20 May 2009}}{{Dead link|date=August 2018 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref> |
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Wintour surprised observers when developing an association with the Kardashian family and [[Kanye West]], which culminated in having the Kardashian-Wests on a ''Vogue cover''; Wintour reportedly commented that having only "deeply tasteful" people in the magazine was "boring", and her decision to resort to such personalities has led some to accuse the magazine of being "desperate for buzz".<ref>{{cite magazine|url=https://time.com/3595368/anna-wintour-kim-kardashian-kanye-west-vogue-cover/|title=Anna Wintour Implies That Kim Kardashian and Kanye West Are Not 'Deeply Tasteful'|first=Nolan|last=Feeney|magazine=Time|access-date=15 November 2015|archive-date=2 December 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151202010243/http://time.com/3595368/anna-wintour-kim-kardashian-kanye-west-vogue-cover/|url-status=live}}</ref> Wintour has nevertheless continued the association with the pair.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.vogue.com/13363097/anna-wintour-kanye-kim-kardashian-west-cfda-vogue-fashion-fund-la-dinner-2015/|title=Anna Wintour, Kanye West, and Kim Kardashian West Host an Intimate Celebratory Soiree for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in Los Angeles|date=21 October 2015|access-date=15 November 2015|archive-date=17 November 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151117022414/http://www.vogue.com/13363097/anna-wintour-kanye-kim-kardashian-west-cfda-vogue-fashion-fund-la-dinner-2015/|url-status=live}}</ref> |
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===Responses=== |
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Others have defended Wintour. Amanda Fortini at ''[[Slate (magazine)|Slate]]'' said she was comfortable with Wintour's elitism since that was intrinsic to fashion: |
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{{blockquote|Most of us read ''Vogue'' not with the intention of buying the wildly expensive clothes, but because doing so educates our eye and hones our taste, similar to the way eating gourmet food refines the palate. This is a pleasure enabled by Wintour's ruthless aesthetic, her refusal to participate in the democratizing tendency of most of her competitors. To deny her that privilege is to deny her readers the privilege of fantasy in the form of beautifully photographed Paris couture.<ref name="Slate" />}} |
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[[Emma Brockes]] sees this in Wintour herself: "[Her] unwavering ability to look as if she lives within the pages of her magazine has a sort of honesty to it, proof that, whatever one thinks about it, the lifestyle peddled by Vogue is at least physically possible."<ref name="What lies beneath"/> |
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"Print publications have to be as luxurious an experience as possible", Wintour explained in 2015. "You have to feel it coming off the page. You have to see photographs and pieces that you couldn't possibly see anywhere else."<ref name="2015 New York interview" /> |
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Some friends see her purported coldness as just traditional British reserve,<ref name="Amiel Maclean's" /> or shyness.<ref name="Kevin Gray profile 2" /> Brockes says it may be mutual, "partly a reflection of how awkward people are with her, particularly women, who get preemptively chippy when faced with the prospect of meeting Fashion Incarnate."<ref name="What lies beneath">Brockes, Emma; 27 May 2006; "[https://www.theguardian.com/media/2006/may/27/pressandpublishing.fashion What lies beneath] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161221125403/https://www.theguardian.com/media/2006/may/27/pressandpublishing.fashion |date=21 December 2016 }}"; ''The Guardian''. Retrieved 23 March 2007.</ref> When [[Morley Safer]] asked her about complaints about her personality, she said, |
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{{blockquote|I have so many people here, Morley, that have worked with me for 15, 20 years, and, you know, if I'm such a bitch, they must really be a glutton for punishment because they're still here. If one comes across sometimes as being cold or brusque, it's simply because I'm striving for the best.<ref name="60 Minutes 2" />}} |
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She has made similar statements in defence of her reported refusal to hire fat people. "It's important to me that the people that are working here, particularly in the fashion department", she says, "will present themselves in a way that makes sense to the outside world that they work at ''Vogue''."<ref name="Kevin Gray profile 2" /> |
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Her defenders have called criticism [[sexism|sexist]]. "Powerful women in the media always get inspected more thoroughly than their male counterparts", said ''[[The New York Times]]'' in a piece about Wintour shortly after ''The Devil Wears Prada''{{'s}} release.<ref name="Times Wintour film piece">Carr, David; 10 July 2006; "[http://plainsfeminist.blogspot.com/2006/07/devil-you-say.html The Devil Wears Teflon] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20061030163911/http://plainsfeminist.blogspot.com/2006/07/devil-you-say.html |date=30 October 2006 }}"; ''The New York Times'', retrieved from plainsfeminist.blogspot.com 10 December 2006.</ref> When Wintour took over at ''Vogue'', gossip columnist [[Liz Smith (journalist)|Liz Smith]] reported rumours she had gotten the job through an affair with [[Samuel Irving Newhouse, Jr.|Si Newhouse]]. A reportedly furious Wintour made her anger the subject of one of her first staff meetings;<ref name="Larson" /> she still complained about the allegation when accepting a media award in 2002.<ref name="Oppenheimer286">Oppenheimer, 286.</ref> |
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She has been called a feminist whose changes to ''Vogue'' have reflected, acknowledged, and reinforced advances in the status of women. Reviewing Oppenheimer's book in the ''[[Washington Monthly]]'', managing editor Christina Larson notes that ''Vogue'', unlike many other women's magazines,{{blockquote|...doesn't play to its readership's sense of inadequacy ... Instead, it reminds women to take satisfaction, parading all manner of fineries (clothes, furniture, travel destinations) that a successful woman might buy, or at least admire. While it surely exists to sell ads ... it does so primarily by exploiting ambition, not insecurity.<ref name="Larson" />}} |
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Wintour, unlike Vreeland, "...shifted ''Vogue''{{'}}s focus from the cult of beauty to the cult of the creation of beauty."<ref name="Larson" /> To Wintour, the focus on celebrities is a welcome development as it means women are making the cover of ''Vogue'' at least in part for what they have accomplished, not just how they look.<ref name="Larson" /> |
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Complaints about her role as fashion ''[[éminence grise]]'' are dismissed by those familiar with how she actually exercises it. "She's honest. She tells you what she thinks. Yes is yes and no is no", according to designer [[Karl Lagerfeld]]. "She's not too pushy", agrees [[François-Henri Pinault]], chief executive officer of [[Kering]], [[Gucci]]'s parent company. "She lets you know it's not a problem if you can't do something she wants." Defenders also point out she continued supporting Gucci despite her strong belief Kering should not have let [[Tom Ford]] go. Designers such as [[Alice Roi]] and [[Isabel Toledo]] have flourished without indulging Wintour or ''Vogue''.<ref name="Citizen Anna 22"/> Her willingness to throw her weight around has helped keep ''Vogue'' independent despite its heavy reliance on advertising dollars. Wintour was the only fashion editor who refused to follow an [[Giorgio Armani S.p.A.|Armani]] ultimatum to feature more of its clothes in the magazine's editorial pages,<ref name="Acid Queen" /> although she has also admitted if she has to choose between two dresses, one by an advertiser and the other not, she will choose the former every time. "Commercial is not a dirty word to me."<ref name="Kevin Gray profile 4" /> |
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Wintour herself, when asked about it, dismisses the notion that she has all the power attributed to her. "I don't think of myself as a powerful person", she told ''[[Forbes]]'' in 2011, when it named her 69th on its list of the world's hundred most powerful women. "You know, what does it mean? It means you get a better seat in a restaurant or tickets to a screening or whatever it may be. But it is a wonderful opportunity to be able to help others, and for that I'm extremely grateful."<ref name="Forbes power interview">{{cite news|last=Goudreau|first=Jenna|title=Vogue's Anna Wintour: Intimidating, No. Powerful, Yes.|url=https://www.forbes.com/sites/jennagoudreau/2011/08/24/vogue-anna-wintour-intimidating-powerful-forbes-power-women-fashion/|newspaper=Forbes|date=24 August 2011|access-date=22 December 2011|archive-date=27 December 2011|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111227192922/http://www.forbes.com/sites/jennagoudreau/2011/08/24/vogue-anna-wintour-intimidating-powerful-forbes-power-women-fashion/|url-status=live}}</ref> |
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In response to criticisms like Beene's, she has defended the democratisation of what were once exclusive luxury brands. "It means more people are going to get better fashion", she told [[Dana Thomas]]. "And the more people who can have fashion, the better."<ref name="Dana Thomas book">{{cite book |title=Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster |last=Thomas |first=Dana |year=2007 |publisher=Penguin Press |isbn=978-1-59420-129-5 |page=[https://archive.org/details/deluxehowluxuryl00thom/page/322 322] |url-access=registration |url=https://archive.org/details/deluxehowluxuryl00thom/page/322 }}</ref> |
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==See also== |
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* [[New Yorkers in journalism]] |
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* [[Vogue World 2024]] |
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==References== |
==References== |
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{{reflist}} |
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==Works cited== |
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<div class="references-small"><references/></div> |
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*{{cite video |first=R.J. (director)|last=Cutler |author-link=R.J. Cutler |year=2009 |title=[[The September Issue]]|medium=Motion picture |publisher=[[Roadside Attractions]] }} |
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*{{cite news|last=Gray|first=Kevin|title=The Summer of Her Discontent|url=https://nymag.com/nymetro/news/people/features/1460/|work=[[New York (magazine)|New York]]|date=13 September 1999|access-date=14 August 2009}} |
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*[[Cathy Horyn|Horyn, Cathy]] (1 February 2007). "[https://web.archive.org/web/20120828180717/http://www.nytimes.com/2007/02/01/fashion/01WINTOUR.htm Citizen Anna]". ''[[The New York Times]]''. Retrieved 2 February 2007. |
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* [[Jerry Oppenheimer|Oppenheimer, Jerry]] (2005). ''Front Row: The Cool Life and Hot Times of Vogue's Editor In Chief''. [[St. Martin's Press]], New York. {{ISBN|0-312-32310-7}}. |
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*{{cite news|last=Safer|first=Morley|author-link=Morley Safer|title=Anna Wintour, Behind the Shades |url= https://www.cbsnews.com/news/anna-wintour-behind-the-shades-14-05-2009/|work=[[60 Minutes]]|publisher=[[CBS News]] |date= 17 May 2009|access-date=26 August 2009}} |
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* [[Lauren Weisberger|Weisberger, Lauren]] (2003). ''[[The Devil Wears Prada (novel)|The Devil Wears Prada]]''. [[Broadway Books]], New York. {{ISBN|0-7679-1476-7}}. |
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==External links== |
==External links== |
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{{Wikiquote|Anna Wintour}} |
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{{Commons category|Anna Wintour}} |
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*{{IMDb name|1659661|Anna Wintour}} |
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* {{Muckrack}} |
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*[http://www.myspace.com/a_wintour Anna Wintour MySpace page] |
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*{{YouTube|fbYD0j2wpGo|Nuclear Wintour}}, video [[montage]] of photographs of Wintour set to [[Madonna (entertainer)|Madonna]]'s "[[Vogue (song)|Vogue]]". |
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{{succession box |
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*[http://www.excessdaily.com/schlebweb/profile/Anna_Wintour Party Profile at ExcessDaily] |
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| before = [[Beatrix Miller]] |
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| title = Editor of British ''[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]'' |
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| years = 1985–1987 |
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title= Editor of American ''[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]''| |
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years= 1988–present | |
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| before = [[Grace Mirabella]] |
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after= current |
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| title = Editor of American ''[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]'' |
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| years = 1988–present |
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{{Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award}} |
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Latest revision as of 15:55, 8 December 2024
Dame Anna Wintour | |
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Born | London, England | 3 November 1949
Citizenship |
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Education | |
Years active | 1975–present |
Employer | Condé Nast |
Notable credits |
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Title |
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Predecessor | Grace Mirabella |
Political party | Democratic |
Board member of | Metropolitan Museum of Art |
Spouses | |
Children | 2 |
Father | Charles Wintour |
Relatives |
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Dame Anna Wintour (/ˈwɪntər/ WIN-tər; born 3 November 1949[1]) is a British-American[2][3] media executive, who has been serving as editor-in-chief of Vogue since 1988. Wintour has also served as global chief content officer of Condé Nast since 2020, where she oversees all Condé Nast publications worldwide, and concurrently serves as artistic director. Wintour is also global editorial director of Vogue.[4] With her trademark pageboy bob haircut and dark sunglasses, Wintour is regarded as the most powerful woman in publishing, and has become an important figure in the fashion world, serving as the lead chairperson of the annual haute couture Met Gala global fashion spectacle in Manhattan since the 1990s. Wintour is praised for her skill in identifying emerging fashion trends, but has been criticised for her reportedly aloof and demanding personality.
Her father, Charles Wintour, who was Editor of the London-based Evening Standard from 1959 to 1976, consulted with her on how to make the newspaper relevant to the youth of the era. She became interested in fashion as a teenager and her career in fashion journalism began at two British magazines. Later, she moved to the United States, with stints at New York and House & Garden. She returned to London and was the Editor of British Vogue between 1985 and 1987. A year later, she assumed control of the franchise's magazine in New York, reviving what many saw as a stagnating publication. Her use of the magazine to shape the fashion industry has been the subject of debate within it. Animal rights activists have attacked her for promoting fur, while other critics have charged her with using the magazine to promote elitist and unattainable views of femininity and beauty.
A former personal assistant, Lauren Weisberger, wrote the bestselling 2003 roman à clef The Devil Wears Prada, later made into a successful 2006 film starring Meryl Streep as Miranda Priestly, a fashion editor, believed to be based on Wintour. In 2009, Wintour's editorship of Vogue was the original focus of a documentary film, R. J. Cutler's The September Issue. The film's focus switched to the creative teams and more senior fashion editors as filming progressed.[5]
Early life and education
[edit]Wintour was born in Hampstead, London, to Charles Wintour (1917–1999), editor of the Evening Standard, and Eleanor "Nonie" Trego Baker (1917–1995), an American and the daughter of a Harvard Law School professor.[6] Her parents were married in 1940 and divorced in 1979.[7] Wintour was named after her maternal grandmother, Anna Baker (née Gilkyson), a merchant's daughter from Pennsylvania.[8] Audrey Slaughter, a magazine editor who founded publications including Honey and Petticoat, was her stepmother.[9][10]
Wintour's grandfather was Major-General Fitzgerald Wintour, a British military officer and descendant of George Grenville, who served as Prime minister of the United Kingdom. Through her paternal grandmother, Alice Jane Blanche Foster, Wintour is a great-great-great-granddaughter of the late-18th-century novelist Lady Elizabeth Foster, who was later the Duchess of Devonshire, and her first husband, the Irish politician John Thomas Foster. Her great-great-great-great-grandfather was Frederick Hervey, 4th Earl of Bristol, who served as the Anglican Bishop of Derry. Sir Augustus Vere Foster, 4th Baronet, the last Baronet of that name, was a granduncle of Wintour's.[11] She is a niece of Cordelia James, Baroness James of Rusholme, the daughter of Fitzgerald Wintour.[12]
Wintour had four siblings. Her older brother, Gerald, died in a traffic accident as a child.[13] One of her younger brothers, Patrick, is also a journalist, currently diplomatic editor of The Guardian.[14][15]
Wintour attended North London Collegiate School, where she frequently rebelled against the dress code by taking up the hemlines of her skirts.[16] At the age of 14, she began wearing her hair in a bob.[17] She developed an interest in fashion as a regular viewer of Cathy McGowan on Ready Steady Go!,[18] and from reading Seventeen, which her grandmother sent from the United States.[19] "Growing up in London in the '60s, you'd have to have had Irving Penn's sack over your head not to know something extraordinary was happening in fashion", she recalled.[20] Her father regularly consulted her when he was considering ideas for increasing readership in the youth market.[18]
Career
[edit]From fashion to journalism
[edit]"I think my father really decided for me that I should work in fashion", she recalled in The September Issue.[19] He arranged for his daughter's first job, at the influential Biba boutique, when she was 15.[21] The next year, she left North London Collegiate and began a training program at Harrods. At her parents' behest, she also took fashion classes at a nearby school. Soon she gave them up, saying, "You either know fashion or you don't."[22] An older boyfriend, Richard Neville, gave her her first experience of magazine production at his popular and controversial Oz.[23]
In 1970, when Harper's Bazaar UK merged with Queen to become Harper's & Queen, Wintour was hired as one of its first editorial assistants, beginning her career in fashion journalism.[24] She told her co-workers that she wanted to edit Vogue.[25] While there, she discovered model Annabel Hodin, a former North London classmate. Her connections helped her secure locations for innovative shoots by Helmut Newton, Jim Lee[26] and other trend-setting photographers.[27] One recreated the works of Renoir and Manet using models in go-go boots.[28] After chronic disagreements with her rival, Min Hogg,[29] she quit and moved to New York with her boyfriend, freelance journalist Jon Bradshaw.[30]
New York City
[edit]In her new home, she became a junior fashion editor at Harper's Bazaar in New York City in 1975.[28] Wintour's innovative shoots led editor Tony Mazzola to fire her after nine months.[31] She was reportedly introduced to Bob Marley by one of Bradshaw's friends, and disappeared with him for a week;[32] in a 2017 appearance on The Late Late Show with James Corden, she said she had never actually met the reggae legend, but certainly would have "hooked up" with him if she had.[33] A few months later, Bradshaw helped her get her first position as a fashion editor, at Viva, a women's adult magazine started by Kathy Keeton, then the wife of Penthouse publisher Bob Guccione. She has rarely discussed working there, due to that connection.[34] This was the first job at which she was able to hire a personal assistant, which began her reputation as a demanding and difficult boss.[35]
In late 1978, Guccione shut down the unprofitable magazine. Wintour decided to take some time off from work. She broke up with Bradshaw and began a relationship with French record producer Michel Esteban, for two years dividing her time with him between Paris and New York.[36] She returned to work in 1980, succeeding Elsa Klensch as fashion editor for a new women's magazine named Savvy.[37] It sought to appeal to career-conscious professional women who spent their own money,[38] the readers Wintour would later target at Vogue.[39]
The following year, she became fashion editor of New York.[28] There, the fashion spreads and photo shoots she had been putting together for years finally began attracting attention. Editor Edward Kosner sometimes bent very strict rules for her and let her work on other sections of the magazine. She learned through her work on a cover involving Rachel Ward how effectively celebrity covers sold copies.[40] "Anna saw the celebrity thing coming before everyone else did", Grace Coddington said three decades later.[41] A former colleague arranged for an interview with Vogue editor Grace Mirabella that ended when Wintour told Mirabella she wanted her job.[42][43]
Condé Nast
[edit]She went to work at Vogue when Alex Liberman, who was then the editorial director for Condé Nast and publisher of Vogue, talked to Wintour about a position there in 1983. She eventually accepted after a bidding war that doubled her salary, becoming the magazine's first creative director, a position with vaguely defined responsibilities.[44] Her changes to the magazine were often made without Mirabella's knowledge, causing friction among the staff.[45] She began dating child psychiatrist David Shaffer, an older acquaintance from London.[46] They married in 1984.[47]
In 1985, Wintour attained her first editorship, taking over the UK edition of Vogue after Beatrix Miller retired.[48] Once in charge, she replaced many of the staff and exerted far more control over the magazine than any previous editor had, earning the nickname "Nuclear Wintour" in the process.[49] Those editors who were retained began to refer to the period as "The Wintour of Our Discontent".[50] Her changes moved the magazine from its traditional eccentricity to a direction more in line with the American magazine. Wintour's ideal reader was the same woman Savvy had tried to reach. "There's a new kind of woman out there", she told the Evening Standard. "She's interested in business and money. She doesn't have time to shop anymore. She wants to know what and why and where and how."[37]
In 1987, Wintour returned to New York City to take over House & Garden. Its circulation had long lagged behind rival Architectural Digest,[51] and Condé Nast hoped she could improve it. Again, she made radical changes to staff and look, canceling $2 million worth of photo spreads and articles in her first week.[52] She put so much fashion in photo spreads that it became known as "House & Garment," and enough celebrities that it was referred to as "Vanity Chair" within the industry.[39] These changes worsened the magazine's problems. When the title was shortened to just HG, many longtime subscribers thought they were getting a new magazine and put it aside for the real thing to arrive.[51] Most of those subscriptions were eventually canceled and, while some fashion advertisers came over, most of the magazine's traditional advertisers pulled out.[53]
Ten months later, she became editor of U.S. Vogue. Industry insiders worried that under Mirabella, the magazine was losing ground to the recently-introduced American edition of Elle.[37][39] After making sweeping changes in staff, Wintour changed the style of the cover pictures. Mirabella had preferred tight head shots of well-known models in studios; Wintour's covers showed more of the body and were taken outside, like those Diana Vreeland had done years earlier.[37] She used less well-known models, and mixed inexpensive clothes with high fashion: the first issue she was in charge of, November 1988, featured a Peter Lindbergh photograph of 19-year-old Michaela Bercu in a $50 pair of faded jeans and a bejeweled T-shirt by Christian Lacroix worth $10,000. It was the first time a Vogue cover model had worn jeans;[39] when the printer saw it they called the magazine's offices, thinking it was the wrong image.[54]
In 2012, Wintour reflected on the cover:
It was so unlike the studied and elegant close-ups that were typical of Vogue's covers back then, with tons of makeup and major jewelry. This one broke all the rules. Michaela wasn't looking at you, and worse, she had her eyes almost closed. Her hair was blowing across her face. It looked easy, casual, a moment that had been snapped on the street, which it had been, and which was the whole point. Afterwards, in the way that these things can happen, people applied all sorts of interpretations: It was about mixing high and low, Michaela was pregnant, it was a religious statement. But none of these things was true. I had just looked at that picture and sensed the winds of change. And you can't ask for more from a cover image than that.[55]
Years later, Wintour admitted the photo had never been planned as the cover shot. In 2011, when Vogue put its entire archive online, Wintour was quoted as saying, "I just said, 'Well, let's just try this.' And off we went. It was just very natural. To me it just said, 'This is something new. This is something different.' The printers called to make sure that was supposed to be the cover, as they thought a mistake might have been made."[56] In 2015, she said if she had to pick a favorite of her covers, it would be that one. "[I]t was a leap of faith and it was certainly a big change for Vogue."[57]
"Wintour's approach hit a nerve—this was the way real women put clothes together (with the likely exception of wearing multi-thousand-dollar T-shirts)", one reviewer says. On the June 1989 cover, model Estelle Lefebure was shown in wet hair, with just a bathrobe and no apparent makeup.[39] Photographers, makeup artists, and hairstylists got credited along with the models.[37] In August 2014, Gigi Hadid paid tribute to Wintour's first cover.[54]
She exerts a great deal of control over the magazine's visual content. Since her first days as editor, she has required that photographers not begin until she has approved Polaroids of the setup and clothing. Afterwards, they must submit all their work to the magazine, not just their personal choices.[58]
Her control over the text is less certain. Her staff claim she reads everything written for publication,[59][60] but former editor Richard Story has claimed she rarely, if ever, reads any of Vogue's arts coverage or book reviews.[61] Earlier in her career, she often left writing of the text that accompanied her layouts to others; former coworkers claim she has minimal skills in that area.[62] Today, she writes little for the magazine save the monthly editor's letter. She reportedly has three full-time assistants but sometimes surprises callers by answering the phone herself.[63]
1990s
[edit]Under her editorship, the magazine renewed its focus on fashion and returned to the prominence it had held under Vreeland. Vogue held its position as market leader against three contenders: Elle; Harper's Bazaar, which had lured away Liz Tilberis, Wintour's most prominent deputy, and Mirabella, a magazine Rupert Murdoch created for Wintour's fired predecessor. Her most serious competitor was within the company: Tina Brown, editor of Vanity Fair and later The New Yorker.[64]
At the end of the decade, another of Wintour's inner circle left to run Harper's Bazaar. Kate Betts, seen as Wintour's likely successor, had broadened the magazine's reach by commissioning stories with a more hard-news edge, about women in politics, street culture, and the financial difficulties of some major designers. She had also added the "Index" section, a few pages of tips meant to be torn out of the magazine. At staff meetings, she earned Wintour's respect as the only person who publicly challenged her.[65]
The two began to disagree about the magazine's direction. Betts felt Vogue's fashion coverage was getting too limited. Wintour in turn thought that the stories with popular culture angles Betts was assigning were beneath readers, and began pairing Betts with Plum Sykes, whom Betts reportedly detested as a "pretentious airhead". Eventually, she left, complaining to The New York Times that Wintour had not even sent her a baby gift. Wintour wrote an editor's letter that complimented Betts and wished her well.[66]
2000s
[edit]Betts was one of several longtime editors to leave Vogue around the new millennium. A year later, Sykes, another putative successor, left to concentrate on her best-selling novels set in the city's upper classes and a screenplay. A number of other editors also left to assume the top jobs at other publications. While some of their replacements did not last, a new group of core editors formed.[59]
The September 2004 issue was 832 pages, the largest issue of a monthly magazine ever published at that time, since exceeded by the September 2007 issue Cutler's documentary covered.[39] Wintour oversaw the introduction of three spinoffs: Teen Vogue, Vogue Living and Men's Vogue. Teen Vogue has published more ad pages and earned more advertiser revenue than either Elle Girl and Cosmo Girl, and the 164 ad pages in the début issue of Men's Vogue were the most for a first issue in Condé Nast history.[67] AdAge named her "Editor of the Year" for this brand expansion.[68]
Wintour was appointed Officer of the Order of the British Empire (OBE) in the 2008 Birthday Honours.[69][70] However, 2008 was generally difficult year for Vogue, as a result of the Great Recession. The April issue's cover image of LeBron James and Gisele Bündchen brought criticism for its evocation of racial stereotypes.[71] The next month, a lavish Karl Lagerfeld gown she wore to the Met's Costume Institute Gala was called "the worst fashion faux pas of 2008". In the fall, Vogue Living was suspended indefinitely, and Men's Vogue cut back to two issues a year as an outsert or supplement to the women's magazine. At the end of the year, December's cover highlighted a disparaging comment Jennifer Aniston made about Angelina Jolie, to the former's displeasure; media observers began speculating that Wintour had lost her touch.[72]
In 2008, rumours arose that she would retire, and be replaced by French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld.[73] An editor at Russian GQ reportedly introduced Russian Vogue editor Aliona Doletskaya as the next editor of American Vogue.[74] Condé Nast responded by taking out a two-page ad in The New York Times defending Wintour's record. In that same publication, Cathy Horyn later wrote that while Wintour had not lost her touch, the magazine had become "stale and predictable", as a reader had recently complained. "To read Vogue in recent years is to wonder about the peculiar fascination for the 'villa in Tuscany' story", Horyn added. The magazine also dealt awkwardly with the recession, she commented.[73]
In 2009, Wintour began making more media appearances. On a 60 Minutes profile, she said she would not retire. "To me, this is a really interesting time to be in this position and I think it would be in a way irresponsible not to put my best foot forward and lead us into a different time."[75] A documentary film, The September Issue, by The War Room producer R.J. Cutler, about the production of the September 2007 issue, was released in September. It focused on the sometimes-difficult relationship between Wintour and creative director Grace Coddington.[76][77] Wintour appeared on the Late Show with David Letterman to promote it,[78] defending the relevance of fashion in a tough economy.[79] The American Society of Magazine Editors elected her to its Hall of Fame in 2010.[80]
2010s
[edit]In 2013, Condé Nast announced she would be taking on the position of artistic director for the company's magazines while remaining at Vogue. She assumed some of the responsibilities of Si Newhouse, the company's longtime chairman, who, in his mid-80s at the time, was retreating from his role at Condé Nast to oversee managing Advance Publications, its parent company. A company spokesman told The New York Times the position was created to keep Wintour. She described it as "an extension of what I am doing, but on a broader scale."[81]
In January 2014, the Metropolitan Museum of Art named its Costume Institute complex after Wintour;[82] First Lady Michelle Obama opened it in May of that year.[83] Wintour starred in The Fashion Fund, which aired on Ovation TV that year as well;[84] she was named the 39th most powerful woman in the world by Forbes.[85]
On the occasion of the 10th anniversary of The Devil Wears Prada's release, in 2016, The Ringer noted how Wintour's personal image had evolved since that film's depiction of Miranda Priestley. "A decade ago this summer, Wintour became a living, breathing avatar for a certain kind of boss—the terrible kind, with 'great' a halfhearted asterisk", wrote Alison Herman. "The Devil Wears Prada transformed Wintour's image from that of a mere public figure into that of a cultural icon."[86]
But since then, "Wintour isn't just redeemed. She's openly admired, Arctic chill and all." The grievances reflected in the novel and film "[seem] like an increasingly petty complaint when held up against a readership that remains well into the seven figures and the undisputed edge in ad sales that comes with it. Wintour is seemingly the only person on earth who knows how to run a steady print operation in 2016 ... At 10 years old, Miranda Priestley is iconic but ever-so-slightly out of date. Anna Wintour is still the boss..."[86]
Wintour was appointed Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire (DBE) in the 2017 New Year Honours for services to fashion and journalism and invested by Queen Elizabeth II in May 2017 at Buckingham Palace.[87] According to a January 2017 report in The Nation, an American news magazine, it was rumored that Wintour would have become the United States Ambassador to the United Kingdom had Hillary Clinton been elected President of the United States the previous November.[88]
2020s
[edit]In May 2020, former editor-at-large André Leon Talley released his second memoir, The Chiffon Trenches, which exposed Talley and Wintour's personal falling-out in 2018 after he was discontinued as Vogue's Met Gala red carpet reporter.[89]
Following the murder of George Floyd, Wintour was reported to have issued an apology to staff for Vogue's complicity in racism, stating the magazine had "not found enough ways to elevate and give space to Black editors, writers, photographers, designers and other creators".[90]
In 2020, Condé Nast promoted Wintour to the role of worldwide chief content officer, as part of a company restructuring. In addition, she will be working as global editorial director of Vogue.[91]
In 2023, Wintour suggested the creation of an event similar to the Met Gala in London to raise funds for the local arts scene, which has struggled to recover in the aftermath of COVID.[92]
Wintour was appointed Member of the Order of the Companions of Honour (CH) in the 2023 Birthday Honours for services to fashion.[93]
Influence in fashion industry
[edit]Through the years, she has come to be regarded as one of the most powerful people in fashion, setting trends and anointing new designers. Industry publicists often hear "Do you want me to go to Anna with this?" when they have differences with her subordinates.[94] The Guardian has called her the "unofficial mayoress" of New York City.[95] She has encouraged fashion houses such as Christian Dior to hire younger, fresher designers such as John Galliano. Her influence extends outside fashion. She persuaded Donald Trump to let Marc Jacobs use a ballroom at the Plaza Hotel for a show when Jacobs and his partner were short of cash. In 2006, she persuaded Brooks Brothers to hire the relatively unknown Thom Browne.[94] A protégée at Vogue, Plum Sykes,[65] became a successful novelist, drawing her settings from New York's fashionable élite.[96]
Her salary was reported to be $2 million a year in 2005.[97] In addition, she receives several perks, such as a chauffeured Mercedes-Benz S-Class (both in New York and abroad), a $200,000 shopping allowance,[75] and the Coco Chanel Suite at the Hotel Ritz Paris while attending European fashion shows.[44] Condé Nast president Samuel Irving Newhouse Jr. had the company make her an interest-free $1.6 million loan to purchase her townhouse in Greenwich Village.[98]
Charity work
[edit]Wintour serves as a trustee of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York,[28] where she has organised benefits that have raised $50 million for the museum's Costume Institute.[75] She began the CFDA/Vogue Fund in order to encourage, support and mentor unknown fashion designers. She has also raised over $10 million for AIDS charities since 1990, by organising various high-profile benefits.[28]
Personal life
[edit]Relationships
[edit]Wintour began dating well-connected older men during her teens. She was briefly involved with novelist Piers Paul Read when she was 15 and he was 24.[99] In her later teens, she dated gossip columnist Nigel Dempster and the two became a fixture on the London club circuit.[100]
Wintour married child psychiatrist David Shaffer in 1984, and they had a son named Charles (born 1985) and a daughter named Katherine (born 1987) before divorcing in 1999. Charles is a graduate of the University of Oxford and Columbia College of Physicians and Surgeons.[101] Katherine wrote occasional columns for The Daily Telegraph in 2006 and graduated from Columbia University in 2009,[102][103] and is a New York-based producer with Ambassador Theatre Group. Katherine married Italian filmmaker Francesco Carrozzini, son of Vogue Italia editor-in-chief Franca Sozzani, in 2018.[104]
Newspapers and gossip columnists claimed that Wintour's affair with investor Shelby Bryan ended her marriage to Shaffer.[105] She declined to comment.[106][107] A former colleague quoted in the Observer said that Bryan "mellowed her" and that she "smiles now and has been seen to laugh".[108]
Residence
[edit]Wintour resides in New York City's Greenwich Village.[109]
Habits
[edit]Wintour says she wakes up at 5:30 a.m., plays tennis, gets her hair and makeup done, and then arrives at the Vogue offices at 7:30 a.m. She always turns up at fashion shows well before their scheduled start, stating, "I use the waiting time to make phone calls and notes; I get some of my best ideas at the shows."[102] According to the BBC documentary series Boss Woman, she rarely stays at parties for more than 20 minutes at a time and usually goes to bed by 10:15 p.m. at the latest.[110] She turns off her mobile phone so as not to be disturbed while eating her lunch,[111] which is most often a steak or a hamburger without the bun.[106] High-protein meals have been a habit of hers for a long time. A co-worker at Harpers & Queen said that she would eat "smoked salmon and scrambled eggs" every single day and that "she would eat nothing else".[27]
Personal fashion
[edit]Because of her position, Wintour's wardrobe is often closely scrutinised and imitated. Earlier in her career, she mixed fashionable t-shirts and vests with designer jeans. When she started at Vogue as creative director, she switched to Chanel suits with miniskirts.[44] She continued to wear them during both pregnancies,[108] opening the skirts slightly in back and keeping her jacket on to cover up.[112] Wintour was listed as "one of the 50 best-dressed over 50s" by The Guardian in March 2013. Aside from sporting Chanel suits with midiskirts, she has also been seen wearing kitten heels & printed midi-dresses.[113]
According to biographer Jerry Oppenheimer, her ubiquitous sunglasses are actually corrective lenses, since she has deteriorating vision as her father did. A former colleague he interviewed recalls trying on her Wayfarers in her absence and getting dizzy.[114] "I think at this point they've become, you know, really armour", Wintour herself told 60 Minutes correspondent Morley Safer, explaining that they allow her to keep her reactions to a show private.[115] As she rebounded from the end of her marriage and the turnover in the magazine's editorial staff, a fellow editor and friend noted that "she's not hiding behind her glasses anymore. Now she's having fun again."[42]
Politics
[edit]Wintour has supported the Democratic Party since Hillary Clinton's 2000 Senate run and John Kerry's 2004 presidential campaign. She also served as a "bundler" of contributions during Barack Obama's presidential campaigns in 2008 and 2012. She co-hosted fundraisers for Obama's campaigns with Sarah Jessica Parker, with one being a 50-person, $40,000-per-person dinner at Parker's West Village town house with Meryl Streep, Michael Kors, and advertising executive Trey Laird among the attendees. She also teamed with Calvin Klein and Harvey Weinstein on fundraisers during Obama's first term, with Donna Karan among the attendees.[116]
In 2013, when Vogue's former director of communications stepped down, Wintour was rumoured to be looking to hire someone with a political background. Soon after, she hired Hildy Kuryk, who worked as a fundraiser for the Democratic National Committee and Obama's 2008 campaign.[117][118] She supported Hillary Clinton's 2016 presidential campaign, forming part of Clinton's long list of wealthy donors and served as Clinton's consultant on wardrobe choices for key moments of the campaign.[119] Wintour endorsed Joe Biden for the 2020 United States presidential election.[120]
The Devil Wears Prada
[edit]Lauren Weisberger, a former Wintour assistant[121] who left Vogue for Departures along with Richard Story, wrote The Devil Wears Prada after a writing workshop he suggested she take.[122] It was eagerly anticipated for its supposed insider portrait of Wintour prior to its publication.[123] Wintour told The New York Times, "I always enjoy a great piece of fiction. I haven't decided whether I am going to read it or not."[124] While it has been suggested that the fashion magazine setting and Miranda Priestly character were based on Vogue and Wintour, Weisberger claims she drew not only from her own experiences but those of her friends as well.[125] Wintour herself makes a cameo appearance near the end of the book,[126] where it is said she and Miranda dislike each other.[127]
In the novel, Priestly has many similarities to Wintour—among them, she is British, has two children,[128] and is described as a major contributor to the Met.[129] Priestly is a tyrant who makes impossible demands of her subordinates, gives them almost none of the information or time necessary to comply and then berates them for their failures to do so.[130]
Kate Betts, who had been fired by Harper's after two years during which staffers said she tried too hard to emulate Wintour,[131] reviewed it harshly in The New York Times Book Review:
Having worked at Vogue myself for eight years and having been mentored by Anna Wintour, I have to say Weisberger could have learned a few things in the year she sold her soul to the devil of fashion for $32,500. She had a ringside seat at one of the great editorial franchises in a business that exerts an enormous influence over women, but she seems to have understood almost nothing about the isolation and pressure of the job her boss was doing, or what it might cost a person like Miranda Priestly to become a character like Miranda Priestly.[123]
Priestly has some positive qualities. Andrea Sachs, the novel's main character, notes that she makes all the magazine's key editorial decisions by herself[132] and that she has genuine class and style.[133]
Film adaptation
[edit]During the production of The Devil Wears Prada in 2005, Wintour was reportedly threatening prominent fashion personalities, particularly designers, that Vogue would not cover them if they made cameo appearances in the film as themselves.[134] She denied it through a spokesperson who said she was interested in anything that "supports fashion". Many designers are mentioned in the film. Only one, Valentino Garavani, appeared as himself.[134]
The film was released, in mid-2006, to great commercial success.[135] Wintour attended the première wearing Prada. In the film, actress Meryl Streep plays Priestly different enough from the book to receive critical praise as an entirely original (and more sympathetic) character.[136][137] (Streep's office in the film was similar enough to Wintour's that Wintour reportedly had hers redecorated.[138])
Wintour reportedly said the film would probably go straight-to-DVD.[111] It made over $300 million in worldwide box-office receipts. Later in 2006, in an interview with Barbara Walters that aired the day of the DVD's release, Wintour said she found the film "really entertaining" and praised it for making fashion "entertaining and glamorous and interesting ... I was 100 percent behind it."[139]
That opinion of the film has not yet led her to forgive Weisberger.[140] When it was reported that the novelist's editor told her to start her third novel over, Wintour's spokesman suggested she "should get a job as someone else's assistant."[141]
Oppenheimer suggests The Devil Wears Prada may have done Wintour a favour by increasing her name recognition. "Besides giving Weisberger her fifteen minutes", he says, "[it] ... place[d] Anna squarely in the mainstream celebrity pantheon. [She] was now known and talked about over Big Macs and french fries under the Golden Arches by young fashionistas in Wal-Mart denim in Davenport and Dubuque."[140]
When The September Issue was released three years later, critics compared it with the earlier, fictional film. "For the past year or so, she's been on the media warpath to win back her image", said Paul Schrodt in Slant Magazine.[142] Many considered the question of how similar she was to Streep's Priestly, and praised the film for showing the real person. Manohla Dargis at The New York Times said that Priestly had helped humanise Wintour, and "the documentary continues this".[143] "The movie offers insights that lift it beyond a realist version of The Devil Wears Prada", agreed Mary Pols in Time.[144]
The film version of the Weisberger novel (screenplay penned by Aline Brosh McKenna) has not been the only film to have a character borrowing some aspects of Wintour. Edna Mode's similar hairstyle in The Incredibles (2004) has been noted,[77][145] Johnny Depp said he partially based the demeanour of Willy Wonka in Charlie and the Chocolate Factory (2005) on Wintour.[146] Fey Sommers in Ugly Betty (2006–2010) was also likened to Wintour, from the trademark bob and sunglasses, to Wintour's last name homophonous with 'Winter', while Sommers' is homophonous with 'Summer'.[147]
Criticism
[edit]In 2005, two years after The Devil Wears Prada, Oppenheimer's Front Row: The Cool Life and Hot Times of Vogue's Editor in Chief was published. It painted a similar portrait of the real woman. According to Oppenheimer, Wintour not only declined his requests for an interview but discouraged others from talking to him.[148]
Personality
[edit]Wintour is often described as emotionally distant by those who have come to know her well, even her close friends. "At some stage in her career, Anna Wintour stopped being Anna Wintour and became 'Anna Wintour,' at which point, like wings of a stately home, she closed off large sections of her personality to the public", wrote The Guardian.[145] "I think she enjoys not being completely approachable. Just her office is very intimidating. You have to walk about a mile into the office before you get to her desk and I'm sure it's intentional", Coddington says.[75] "I don't find her to be accessible to people she doesn't need to be accessible to", agrees Vogue publisher Tom Florio.[149]
She has said she admired her father Charles, known as "Chilly Charlie"[66][115] for being "inscrutable".[49] Former coworkers told Oppenheimer of a similar aloofness on her part. But she is also known for volatile outbursts of displeasure, and the widely used "Nuclear Wintour" sobriquet is a result of both. She dislikes it enough to have asked The New York Times not to use it.[49] "There are times I get quite angry", she admitted in The September Issue.[150]
"I think she has been very rude to a lot of people in the past, on her way up – very terse", a friend told The Observer. "She doesn't do small talk. She is never going to be friends with her assistant."[108] Junior staff at Vogue are said to understand, through unwritten rules, that they should not initiate interactions with her; it has been said that they are discouraged from riding an elevator with her, and if they do, should not speak to her, though Wintour has called this an exaggeration.[75][151] In a 1999 profile, journalist Kevin Gray observed that one staffer appeared "panic stricken" when she realised she would have to be in the elevator with Wintour. Gray also reports that another employee told him that she once saw Wintour trip in a hallway, walked past her without offering assistance, and was later told she "did absolutely the right thing."[65]
Even friends admit to some trepidation in her presence. "Anna happens to be a friend of mine", says Barbara Amiel, "a fact which is of absolutely no help in coping with the cold panic that grips me whenever we meet."[111] "I know when to stop pushing her", says Coddington. "She doesn't know when to stop pushing me."[152]
She has often been described as a perfectionist who routinely makes impossible, arbitrary demands of subordinates: "kitchen scissors at work", in the words of one commentator.[39] She once made a junior staffer look through a photographer's trash to find a picture he had refused to give her.[37] In a deleted scene from The September Issue, she complains about the "horrible white plastic buckets" of ice behind the bars at the CFDA's 7th on Sale AIDS benefit and moves them out of sight.[153] "The notion that Anna would want something done 'now' and not 'shortly' is accurate", Amiel says of The Devil Wears Prada. "Anna wants what she wants right away."[154] A longtime assistant says, "She throws you in the water and you'll either sink or swim."[155]
Peter Braunstein, a former Women's Wear Daily media reporter convicted of sexually assaulting a coworker, allegedly planned to kill Wintour because of perceived slights. After receiving only one ticket to the 2002 Vogue Fashion Awards, which he perceived as a snub, his anger cost him his job.[156]
On one occasion she had to pay for her treatment of employees. In 2004, a court ruled that she and Shaffer were to pay $104,403, and Wintour herself an additional $32,639, to settle a lawsuit brought against them by the New York State Workers' Compensation Board. They had failed to pay the $140,000 judgement against them by a former employee of theirs (not the magazine) injured on the job, who did not have the necessary insurance coverage.[157]
In the 2000s, her relationship with Bryan was credited with softening her personality at work. "Even when she's in a bad mood, she has a different posture [...] is that she's so much more mellow and easier to work for", someone described as a "Wintour watcher" told The New York Observer in 2000.[59]
Pro-fur stance
[edit]She has often been the target of animal rights organisations like PETA, who are angered by her use of fur in Vogue, her pro-fur editorials and her refusal to run paid advertisements from animal rights organisations. Undeterred, she continues to use fur in photo spreads, saying there is always a way to wear it.[158] "Nobody was wearing fur until she put it on the cover in the early 1990s", says Vogue co-worker Tom Florio. "She ignited the entire industry."[159]
She has "lost count" of the times she has been physically attacked by activists.[160] In Paris in October 2005, she was hit with a tofu pie while waiting to get into the Chloé show.[161] On another occasion, an activist dumped a dead raccoon on her plate at a restaurant; she told the waiter to remove it.[106] She and Vogue publisher Ron Galotti once retaliated for a protest outside the Condé Nast offices during the company's annual Christmas party by sending down a plate of roast beef.[162]
Others outside of the animal rights community have raised the fur issue. Fashion journalist Peter Braunstein wrote in his manifesto that she would go to a hell guarded by large rats, where it would be so warm she would not need to wear fur.[163] Pamela Anderson, in an early 2008 interview, said Wintour was the living person she most despised "because she bullies young designers and models to use and wear fur."[164]
Elitism
[edit]Another common criticism of Wintour's editorship focuses on Vogue's increasing use of celebrities on the cover, and her insistence on making them meet her standards.[39][108][165][166] She reportedly told Oprah Winfrey to lose weight before her cover photograph. Likewise, Hillary Clinton was told not to wear a blue suit.[39] At the 2005 Anglomania celebration, a Vogue-sponsored salute to British fashion at the Met, Wintour is said to have personally chosen the clothes for prominent attendees such as Jennifer Lopez, Kate Moss, Donald Trump, and Diane von Fürstenberg.[108] "I don't think Vreeland had that kind of concentration", says Women's Wear Daily publisher Patrick McCarthy. "She wouldn't have dressed Babe Paley. Nor would Babe Paley have let her." By persuading designers to lend clothes to prominent socialites and celebrities, who are then photographed wearing the clothes not only in Vogue but more general-interest magazines like People and Us, which in turn influence what buyers want, some in the industry believe Wintour is exerting too much control over it, especially since she is not involved in making or producing clothes herself. "The end result is that Anna can control it all the way to the selling floor", says Candy Pratts Price, executive fashion director at Style.com.[63] She has been credited with killing grunge fashion in the early 1990s, when it was not selling well, by telling designers if they continued to avoid glamour their looks would not be photographed for Vogue. All complied.[42]
Another Vogue writer has complained Wintour excluded ordinary working women, many of whom are regular subscribers, from the pages. "She's obsessed only about reflecting the aspirations of a certain class of reader", she says. "We once had a piece about breast cancer which started with an airline stewardess, but she wouldn't have a stewardess in the magazine so we had to go and look for a high-flying businesswoman who'd had cancer."[39]
Wintour has been accused of setting herself apart even from peers. "I do not think fiction could surpass the reality", a British fashion magazine editor says of The Devil Wears Prada. "[A]rt in this instance is only a poor imitation of life." Wintour, the editor says, routinely requests to be seated out of sight of competing editors at shows. "We spend our working lives telling people which it-bag to carry but Anna is so above the rest of us she does not even have a handbag."[108]
At Milan Fashion Week in 2008, she requested that some key shows be rescheduled for earlier in the week so she and other U.S.-based editors could have time to return home before the Paris shows. This led to complaints. Other editors said they had to rush through the earlier shows, and lesser-known designers who had to show later were denied an important audience. Dolce & Gabbana said Italian fashion was getting short shrift and Milan was becoming a "circus without sense".[167]
Giorgio Armani, who at the time was co-chairing a Met exhibition on superheroes' costumes with Wintour, drew some attention for his personal remarks. "Maybe what she thinks is a beautiful dress, I wouldn't think was a beautiful dress", he said. While he claimed he could not understand why people disliked her, saying he himself was indifferent, he expressed hope she had not made a comment once attributed to her that "the Armani era is over". He accused her of preferring French and American fashion over Italian.[168] Geoffrey Beene, who stopped inviting Wintour to shows after she stopped writing about him, called her "a boss lady in four-wheel drive who ignores or abandons those who do not fuel her tank. As an editor, she has turned class into mass, taste into waste."[42]
Her remarks about obesity have caused controversy on more than one occasion. In 2005, Wintour was heavily criticised by the New York chapter of the National Association to Advance Fat Acceptance after Vogue editor-at-large André Leon Talley said on The Oprah Winfrey Show, at one point, Wintour demanded he lose weight. "Most of the Vogue girls are so thin, tremendously thin", he said, "because Miss Anna don't like fat people."[169] In 2009, residents of Minneapolis took umbrage after she told 60 Minutes she could "only kindly describe most of the people I saw as little houses."[170] They noted their city had been named the third fittest in the nation that year by Men's Fitness while New York had been named the fifth fattest.[171]
Wintour surprised observers when developing an association with the Kardashian family and Kanye West, which culminated in having the Kardashian-Wests on a Vogue cover; Wintour reportedly commented that having only "deeply tasteful" people in the magazine was "boring", and her decision to resort to such personalities has led some to accuse the magazine of being "desperate for buzz".[172] Wintour has nevertheless continued the association with the pair.[173]
Responses
[edit]Others have defended Wintour. Amanda Fortini at Slate said she was comfortable with Wintour's elitism since that was intrinsic to fashion:
Most of us read Vogue not with the intention of buying the wildly expensive clothes, but because doing so educates our eye and hones our taste, similar to the way eating gourmet food refines the palate. This is a pleasure enabled by Wintour's ruthless aesthetic, her refusal to participate in the democratizing tendency of most of her competitors. To deny her that privilege is to deny her readers the privilege of fantasy in the form of beautifully photographed Paris couture.[39]
Emma Brockes sees this in Wintour herself: "[Her] unwavering ability to look as if she lives within the pages of her magazine has a sort of honesty to it, proof that, whatever one thinks about it, the lifestyle peddled by Vogue is at least physically possible."[145]
"Print publications have to be as luxurious an experience as possible", Wintour explained in 2015. "You have to feel it coming off the page. You have to see photographs and pieces that you couldn't possibly see anywhere else."[57]
Some friends see her purported coldness as just traditional British reserve,[154] or shyness.[65] Brockes says it may be mutual, "partly a reflection of how awkward people are with her, particularly women, who get preemptively chippy when faced with the prospect of meeting Fashion Incarnate."[145] When Morley Safer asked her about complaints about her personality, she said,
I have so many people here, Morley, that have worked with me for 15, 20 years, and, you know, if I'm such a bitch, they must really be a glutton for punishment because they're still here. If one comes across sometimes as being cold or brusque, it's simply because I'm striving for the best.[75]
She has made similar statements in defence of her reported refusal to hire fat people. "It's important to me that the people that are working here, particularly in the fashion department", she says, "will present themselves in a way that makes sense to the outside world that they work at Vogue."[65]
Her defenders have called criticism sexist. "Powerful women in the media always get inspected more thoroughly than their male counterparts", said The New York Times in a piece about Wintour shortly after The Devil Wears Prada's release.[174] When Wintour took over at Vogue, gossip columnist Liz Smith reported rumours she had gotten the job through an affair with Si Newhouse. A reportedly furious Wintour made her anger the subject of one of her first staff meetings;[37] she still complained about the allegation when accepting a media award in 2002.[175]
She has been called a feminist whose changes to Vogue have reflected, acknowledged, and reinforced advances in the status of women. Reviewing Oppenheimer's book in the Washington Monthly, managing editor Christina Larson notes that Vogue, unlike many other women's magazines,
...doesn't play to its readership's sense of inadequacy ... Instead, it reminds women to take satisfaction, parading all manner of fineries (clothes, furniture, travel destinations) that a successful woman might buy, or at least admire. While it surely exists to sell ads ... it does so primarily by exploiting ambition, not insecurity.[37]
Wintour, unlike Vreeland, "...shifted Vogue's focus from the cult of beauty to the cult of the creation of beauty."[37] To Wintour, the focus on celebrities is a welcome development as it means women are making the cover of Vogue at least in part for what they have accomplished, not just how they look.[37]
Complaints about her role as fashion éminence grise are dismissed by those familiar with how she actually exercises it. "She's honest. She tells you what she thinks. Yes is yes and no is no", according to designer Karl Lagerfeld. "She's not too pushy", agrees François-Henri Pinault, chief executive officer of Kering, Gucci's parent company. "She lets you know it's not a problem if you can't do something she wants." Defenders also point out she continued supporting Gucci despite her strong belief Kering should not have let Tom Ford go. Designers such as Alice Roi and Isabel Toledo have flourished without indulging Wintour or Vogue.[63] Her willingness to throw her weight around has helped keep Vogue independent despite its heavy reliance on advertising dollars. Wintour was the only fashion editor who refused to follow an Armani ultimatum to feature more of its clothes in the magazine's editorial pages,[108] although she has also admitted if she has to choose between two dresses, one by an advertiser and the other not, she will choose the former every time. "Commercial is not a dirty word to me."[42]
Wintour herself, when asked about it, dismisses the notion that she has all the power attributed to her. "I don't think of myself as a powerful person", she told Forbes in 2011, when it named her 69th on its list of the world's hundred most powerful women. "You know, what does it mean? It means you get a better seat in a restaurant or tickets to a screening or whatever it may be. But it is a wonderful opportunity to be able to help others, and for that I'm extremely grateful."[176]
In response to criticisms like Beene's, she has defended the democratisation of what were once exclusive luxury brands. "It means more people are going to get better fashion", she told Dana Thomas. "And the more people who can have fashion, the better."[177]
See also
[edit]References
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- ^ Oppenheimer, 99. "...[H]er animosity intensif[ied] after her father married Slaughter."
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...[F]or example a newish magazine is often identified with a particular editor; an example is the association of Audrey Slaughter in the 1960s and 70s with a succession of young women's publications — Honey, Petticoat, and Over 21.
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Mr Wintour, who is brother of Anna Wintour, the editor-in-chief of Vogue ...
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As for how Bob Marley is in bed, Wintour cleared that up as well. 'Fake news! I've never actually met Bob Marley,' she told Corden, clearing up any rumors that the two dated. However, Corden continued, 'Had you met him, would you have slept with him?' Her answer? 'Absolutely.'
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{{cite web}}
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And Men's Vogue, with 164 pages, was the most ad-laden launch in Condé Nast history
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She became more perfunctory when Dave asked the two questions that probably most interest the non-fashionista. First, what happens to high fashion in a down economy, and second, does anyone wear the really bizarre stuff you see at fashion shows? Wintour's reply to the first question was that fashion is available at all prices, and that's probably true.
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It's hard to get past the onslaught of Page Six gossip and film-rights buzz that has preceded The Devil Wears Prada, Lauren Weisberger's thinly veiled roman à clef about her thankless year sidetracked in the trenches of a fashion magazine.
- ^ Carr, David; 17 February 2003; Anna Wintour Steps Toward Fashion's New Democracy Archived 13 March 2016 at the Wayback Machine; The New York Times. Retrieved 10 December 2006.
- ^ "A Conversation With Lauren Weisberger". Random House. 2004. Archived from the original on 24 September 2014. Retrieved 14 August 2009.
Some of the stories aren't so far away from the tasks either I or my friends in various industries—whether fashion or magazines or PR or advertising—went through our first few years out of college. I imagine that assistants everywhere will recognize some of their own experiences in Andrea's life.
- ^ Weisberger, 322. "Immediately I recognized Anna Wintour, looking absolutely ravishing in a cream-colored slip dress and beaded Manolo sandals. She was talking animatedly to a man I presumed to be her boyfriend, although her giant Chanel sunglasses prevented me from being able to tell if she was amused, indifferent or sobbing. The press loved to compare the antics and attitudes of Anna and Miranda, but I found it impossible to believe that anyone could be quite as unbearable as my boss."
- ^ Weisberger, 348. "'Maybe I should try to work for one of her enemies? They'd be happy to hire me, right' Sure. Send your resume over to Anna Wintour—they've never liked each other very much."
- ^ Weisberger, 38–39. "I had Googled her and was surprised to find Miranda Priestly was born Miriam Princhek in London's East End ... Her rough, Cockney-girl accent was soon replaced by a carefully cultivated, educated one ... She moved her two daughters and her then rock-star husband ..."
- ^ Weisberger, 267.
- ^ Weisberger, 145. "Ah yes. Mrs. Whitmore. I am a lucky girl indeed. I'm so lucky, you have no idea. I can't tell you how lucky I felt when I was sent out to get tampons for my boss, only to be told that I'd bought the wrong ones and asked why I do nothing right. And luck is probably the only way to explain why I get to sort another person's sweat- and food-stained clothing each morning before eight and arrange to have it cleaned. Oh wait! I think what actually makes me luckiest of all is getting to talk to breeders all over the tristate area for three straight weeks in search of the perfect French bulldog puppy so two incredibly spoiled and unfriendly little girls can each have their own pet. Yes, that's it!"
- ^ Jacobs, Alexandra (10 June 2001). "Good Witch Glenda Comes to Bazaar as Classy, Chilly Kate Gets Gate". The New York Observer. Archived from the original on 1 November 2020. Retrieved 9 October 2020.
[She] adopted every Anna Wintourism under the sun, down to mannerisms, posture, [a] way of carrying herself in the office, a certain way of crossing her legs, leaning on her elbow at a certain way at her desk. It was eerie, at times, how similar she acted to Anna—always sequestered in her corner office, with her two assistants perched there like little lion guard dogs.
- ^ Weisberger, 208. "Miranda was as far as I could tell, a truly fantastic editor. Not a single word of copy made it into the magazine without her explicit, hard-to-obtain approval ... Although the various fashion editors called in the clothes they wanted to shoot, Miranda alone selected the looks she wanted and which models she wanted wearing each one ... [T]hat made her, in my mind, the main reason for the magazine's stunning success each month. Runway wouldn't be Runway — hell, it wouldn't be much of anything at all – without Miranda Priestly. I knew it and so did everyone else."
- ^ Weisberger, 271–72. "I never grew tired of watching Miranda. She was the true lady and the envy of every woman in the museum that night."
- ^ a b "The Devil You Know, On Line One". Radar Online. 30 January 2008 [November 2005]. Archived from the original on 3 July 2014. Retrieved 25 June 2010.
- ^ The Devil Wears Prada Archived 23 February 2011 at Wikiwix at boxofficemojo.com. Retrieved 8 February 2007.
- ^ Scott, A.O. (30 June 2006). "In 'The Devil Wears Prada,' Meryl Streep Plays the Terror of the Fashion World". The New York Times. Archived from the original on 5 July 2010. Retrieved 15 June 2010.
No longer simply the incarnation of evil, she is now a vision of aristocratic, purposeful and surprisingly human grace ... And the movie, while noting that she can be sadistic, inconsiderate and manipulative, is unmistakably on Miranda's side
- ^ Quinn, Anthony (6 October 2006). "Claws out, dressed to kill". The Independent. London. Archived from the original on 8 November 2006. Retrieved 15 June 2010.
[Streep] may just have given us a classic here
- ^ Whitworth, Melissa (9 June 2006). "The Devil has all the best costumes". The Daily Telegraph. London. Archived from the original on 20 December 2008. Retrieved 6 February 2007.
... after seeing the film, Wintour apparently decided to redecorate her office because the film set was almost an exact replica.
- ^ Walter, Barbara (12 December 2006). "Anna Wintour: Always in Vogue". ABC News. Archived from the original on 13 December 2006. Retrieved 18 December 2006.
- ^ a b Oppenheimer, 328.
- ^ Grove, Lloyd (2 May 2006). "Author Goes From 'Prada' To Nada". Daily News. New York. Archived from the original on 14 June 2009. Retrieved 24 June 2010.
- ^ Schrodt, Paul (27 August 2009). "The September Issue". Slant Magazine. Archived from the original on 29 August 2009. Retrieved 7 September 2009.
- ^ Dargis, Manohla (28 August 2009). "The Cameras Zoom In on Fashion's Empress". The New York Times. Archived from the original on 31 August 2009. Retrieved 6 September 2009.
- ^ Pols, Mary (28 August 2009). "The September Issue: Humanizing the Devil". Time. Archived from the original on 30 August 2009. Retrieved 6 September 2009.
- ^ a b c d Brockes, Emma; 27 May 2006; "What lies beneath Archived 21 December 2016 at the Wayback Machine"; The Guardian. Retrieved 23 March 2007.
- ^ Rebecca Winters (26 June 2005). "Just a Couple of Eccentrics". Time. Archived from the original on 26 July 2010. Retrieved 24 June 2010.
- ^ McFarland, Melanie (28 September 2006). "On TV: 'Ugly Betty' tackles the cruel fashion world with grace". Seattle Post-Intelligencer. Retrieved 17 August 2009.
Family love steels her against what she has to face on her job at Mode magazine, which lost its Anna Wintour-like leader Fey Sommers in a car accident.
- ^ Oppenheimer, xi
- ^ The September Issue, 0:11.
- ^ The September Issue, 1:11.
- ^ Stummer, Robin; 18 June 2006; "Nuclear Wintour: The Movie"; The Independent on Sunday. Retrieved 7 February 2007.
- ^ The September Issue, 32:15.
- ^ The September Issue, "7th on Sale" 4:30.
- ^ a b Amiel, Barbara (30 June 2006). "This devil isn't Anna". Maclean's. Archived from the original on 12 April 2019. Retrieved 8 February 2007.
- ^ Oppenheimer, 192.
- ^ Ross, Barbara; Siemaszko, Corky (15 May 2007). "Fiend dream to slay the style queen". New York Daily News. Archived from the original on 15 April 2018. Retrieved 15 May 2007.
- ^ Bastone, William; 18 May 2004; Wintour In $140,000 Worker's Comp Default Archived 30 December 2006 at the Wayback Machine; The Smoking Gun. Retrieved 10 December 2006.
- ^ The September Issue, 0:05.
- ^ The September Issue, 0:09
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- ^ Carr, David; 10 July 2006; "The Devil Wears Teflon Archived 30 October 2006 at the Wayback Machine"; The New York Times, retrieved from plainsfeminist.blogspot.com 10 December 2006.
- ^ Oppenheimer, 286.
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- ^ Thomas, Dana (2007). Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster. Penguin Press. p. 322. ISBN 978-1-59420-129-5.
Works cited
[edit]- Cutler, R.J. (director) (2009). The September Issue (Motion picture). Roadside Attractions.
- Gray, Kevin (13 September 1999). "The Summer of Her Discontent". New York. Retrieved 14 August 2009.
- Horyn, Cathy (1 February 2007). "Citizen Anna". The New York Times. Retrieved 2 February 2007.
- Oppenheimer, Jerry (2005). Front Row: The Cool Life and Hot Times of Vogue's Editor In Chief. St. Martin's Press, New York. ISBN 0-312-32310-7.
- Safer, Morley (17 May 2009). "Anna Wintour, Behind the Shades". 60 Minutes. CBS News. Retrieved 26 August 2009.
- Weisberger, Lauren (2003). The Devil Wears Prada. Broadway Books, New York. ISBN 0-7679-1476-7.
External links
[edit]- Anna Wintour at IMDb
- Anna Wintour on the Muck Rack journalist listing site
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