Karakul hat: Difference between revisions
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{{Short description|Traditional sheep fur hat of Central and South Asia}} |
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{{otheruses|Karakul (disambiguation)}} |
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[[File:Jinnah1945c.jpg|thumb|[[Muhammad Ali Jinnah]], the founding father of [[Pakistan]], wearing a Karakul.]] |
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The '''Karakul hat''' ([[Dari language|Dari]]/[[Pashto]]/[[Uzbek Language|Uzbek]]/[[Urdu]]/[[Kashmiri language|Kashmiri]]: {{nq|قراقلی}}), also known by other names,{{efn|It is sometimes spelled as '''Qaraqul''' '''hat''' and also known as an '''Astrakhan hat''', '''Uzbek hat''',<ref>{{Cite book |last=Ahmed |first=Akbar S. |author-link=Akbar Ahmed |year=2005 |orig-year=First published 1997 |title=Jinnah, Pakistan, and Islamic Identity: The Search for Saladin |publisher=Routledge |location=London |isbn=978-1-134-75022-1 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=RqyniTHXFxUC&pg=PT33 |page=85}}</ref> and '''Jinnah Cap'''.<ref>{{Cite news |date=18 March 2022 |title=Decoding Afghanistan's colourful headgear culture |work=[[Al Jazeera Media Network|AlJazeera]] |url=https://www.aljazeera.com/news/2022/3/18/decoding-afghanistans-colourful-headgear-culture |quote=known as a Jinnah cap across the border in Pakistan, where it was popularised by the country’s founder, Muhammad Ali Jinnah}}</ref><ref name=":0">{{Cite news |last=Baig |first=Zulfiqar |date=9 October 2019 |title=Jinnah Cap – a dying legacy |work=[[The Express Tribune]] |url=https://tribune.com.pk/story/2075387/jinnah-cap-dying-legacy}}</ref>}} is a hat made from the fur of the [[Karakul sheep|Karakul]] breed of [[Domestic sheep|sheep]]. It originally comes from [[Bukhara]], [[Uzbekistan]].<ref name="foxnews">{{Cite news |title=Hamid Karzai's Famous Hat Made From Aborted Lamb Fetuses |url=https://www.foxnews.com/story/hamid-karzais-famous-hat-made-from-aborted-lamb-fetuses |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080501230853/http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,51034,00.html |archive-date=1 May 2008 |work=FOXNews.com |language=en |agency=Associated Press}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news |date=27 May 2007 |title=Qaraquls Burst Upon the Fashion World |url=http://www.taipeitimes.com/News/bizfocus/archives/2007/05/27/2003362700/print |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071216031746/http://www.taipeitimes.com/News/bizfocus/archives/2007/05/27/2003362700/print |archive-date=16 December 2007 |work=Taipei Times |page=12 |language=en |agency=Associated Press}}</ref><ref>{{Cite press release |title=HSUS Investigation Reveals Slaughter of Unborn and Newborn Lambs for Fur: Dateline NBC Features Undercover Investigation Documenting Animal Cruelty |date=12 December 2000 |url=http://www.infurmation.com/press_detail.php?id=99 |language=en |last1=Humane Society of the United States |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060531022711/http://infurmation.com/press_detail.php?id=99 |archive-date=31 May 2006 |website=Infurmation}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=11 December 2000 |title=Transcript of NBC "Dateline" Feature on Karakul Production |url=http://www.furcommission.com/news/newsF02d.htm |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080510115715/http://www.furcommission.com/news/newsF02d.htm |archive-date=10 May 2008 |website=furcommission.com |language=en}}</ref> The fur from which it is made is referred to as ''[[Astrakhan]]'', ''broadtail'', ''qaraqulcha'', or ''Persian lamb''. The hat is peaked, and folds flat when taken off the wearer's head.[[File:ابراهیم گاوسوار.jpg|thumb|[[Muhammad Ibrahim Khan (Afghan leader)|Muhammad Ibrahim Khan]], [[Hazaras|Hazara]] leader in 1944 from [[Afghanistan]], wearing Karakul.]] |
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The cap is typically worn by Muslim men in [[Central Asia|Central]] and [[South Asia]]. It was worn by [[Muhammad Ali Jinnah]], the founding father of [[Pakistan]], where it is known as the Jinnah cap. The karakul, which had distinguished all educated urban men since the beginning of the 20th century, has fallen out of fashion in Afghanistan and Pakistan.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Clothing in Afghanistan |url=http://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xiii |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304050442/http://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/clothing-xiii |archive-date=4 March 2016 |access-date=28 March 2016 |website=Encyclopaedia Iranica |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news |last=Nordland |first=Rob |date=26 January 2010 |title=The Afghan Leader's Hat, Always More Than Just Headgear, Is Losing Its Cachet |language=en |work=New York Times |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2010/01/27/world/asia/27karzai.html |url-status=live |access-date=25 February 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210610073134/https://www.nytimes.com/2010/01/27/world/asia/27karzai.html |archive-date=10 June 2021}}</ref><ref name=":0" /> |
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A '''Karakul''' ('''Karacul''', '''QaraQul''') '''hat''' ([[Persian language|Persian]]: قراقلی) is a hat made from the fur of [[abortion|aborted]] [[fetus]]es of the [[Karakul]] breed of [[Domestic sheep|sheep]].<ref name="foxnews">[http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,51034,00.html Hamid Karzai's Famous Hat Made From Aborted Lamb Fetuses] [[FOX News]]</ref><ref>[http://www.taipeitimes.com/News/bizfocus/archives/2007/05/27/2003362700/print Karakuls burst upon the fashion world], AP, KANIMEKH, UZBEKISTAN, Sunday, May 27, 2007, Page 12</ref><ref>[http://www.infurmation.com/press_detail.php?id=99 HSUS Investigation Reveals Slaughter of Unborn and Newborn Lambs for Fur: Dateline NBC Features Undercover Investigation Documenting Animal Cruelty], Dec 12, 2000</ref><ref>[http://www.furcommission.com/news/newsF02d.htm Transcript of NBC "Dateline" Feature on Karakul Production]</ref> The fur from which it is made is referred to as '''Astrakhan''', '''broadtail''', '''karakulcha''', or '''Persian lamb'''. The hat is peaked, and folds flat when taken off of the wearer's head. |
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== Production == |
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The karakul hat is typically worn by [[Muslim]] men in [[Central Asia|Central]] and [[South Asia]]. [[Hamid Karzai]], President of [[Afghanistan]], famously wears a karakul hat. Since his presidential appointment, karakul hats have become more popular among men in [[Afghanistan]].<ref name="foxnews" /> |
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The cap is made of the fur of the Qaraqul or Karakul breed of sheep, which is found in the desert areas of Central Asia. The sheep have been named in connection to the city of Qorako‘l, a town in the [[Bukhara]] Region of Uzbekistan. Later, the cap became popular in Mazar Sharif, a city in Afghanistan, after which Uzbek craftsmen also brought the business to Pakistan.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Yasin |first=Aamir |date=2019-12-08 |title=The last Jinnah cap maker in Rawalpindi |url=https://www.dawn.com/news/1520988 |access-date=2023-01-24 |website=DAWN.COM |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=2019-10-08 |title=Jinnah Cap – a dying legacy |url=https://tribune.com.pk/story/2075387/jinnah-cap-dying-legacy |access-date=2023-01-24 |website=The Express Tribune |language=en}}</ref> |
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The type of wool from which these caps are made is popularly known as astar, astarkhan, broadtail, [[Karakul sheep|qaraqulcha]] and Irani menda. The literal meaning of Karakul, which is a Turkish word, is black lake.<ref>{{Cite web |last=KO |date=2022-03-24 |title=The Royal Headgear: Qarakul - Kashmir Observer |url=https://kashmirobserver.net/2022/03/24/the-royal-headgear-qarakul/ |access-date=2023-01-24 |language=en-US}}</ref> |
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==Jinnah cap== |
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[[Image:Jinnah.jpeg|thumb|right|[[Muhammad Ali Jinnah|Quaid-e-Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah]] wearing a Karakul hat famously known as '''Jinnah Cap''' in [[Pakistan]]]] |
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== Design == |
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A '''Jinnah cap''' is an artificial fur karakul hat named for the founder of [[Pakistan]], [[Muhammad Ali Jinnah]]. The Jinnah cap and [[salwar kameez]] are the national dress of [[Pakistan]]. |
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In terms of design, the cap is peaked and has several parts. It folds flat when taken off the head. The cap has been particularly popular among the Muslim population of Central and South Asia, however, there is no religious significance attached to it. |
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The fur is obtained from a newly-born sheep, which gives the cap its tough and curly texture as well as a specific pattern.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2019-10-08 |title=Jinnah Cap – a dying legacy |url=https://tribune.com.pk/story/2075387/jinnah-cap-dying-legacy |access-date=2023-01-24 |website=The Express Tribune |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Why we stopped selling Karakul Caps |url=https://www.kashmirbox.com/blogs/craft/why-we-stopped-selling-karakul-caps |access-date=2023-01-24 |website=KashmirBox.com |date=6 April 2019 |language=en}}</ref> |
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== Kashmiri variations == |
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While the Jinnah cap is often worn by [[African]] and [[African-American]] [[Christians]] and [[Black Jews|Jews]], the [[Pakol]] is only worn by Muslims. Like the Jinnah cap, the Pakol is traditionally a hat for [[Afghan]] or [[Pashtun]] men. However, unlike the Jinnah cap, the Pakol is not worn by non-Muslims of African heritage. Most [[Christians]] who wear Jinnah or Rampuri caps purchase them from [[Muslim]] booksellers. Few African clothing stores sell these caps. Nevertheless, they are often worn during [[Kwanzaa]] and other celebrations. |
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Karakul caps have been worn by [[Kashmiri people|Kashmiris]] for the past several decades.<ref>{{Cite web |last=M. Ashraf |date=1 January 2013 |title=The Karakul Cap |url=http://www.greaterkashmir.com/news/2013/Jan/1/the-karakul-cap-29.asp |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130128135213/http://greaterkashmir.com/news/2013/Jan/1/the-karakul-cap-29.asp |archive-date=28 January 2013 |access-date=1 January 2013 |website=GreaterKashmir.com |language=en}}</ref> The Karakul cap is colloquially known as a "Karakuli" in the Kashmir Valley. The traditional headgear of the gentry in Kashmir has historically been the turban tied in a similar fashion to the Pashtun equivalent. |
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Most of the mainstream lawmakers enjoy wearing the Karakul caps. A Kashmiri groom frequently dons a Karakul Cap while waiting for his fiancée to join him at his in-laws' residence. |
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[[Image:Pakistan 500 Rupees f.jpg|thumb|250px|right| The 500 rupee note]] |
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== African variations == |
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⚫ | Both the velvet and faux fur versions are worn by men of African descent with Western [[suit (clothing)|suit]]s, and African attire such as the [[Boubou (clothing)|grand boubou]]. [[Muslims]] of African ancestry wear these caps with the [[dishdasha]]. In urban slang, the karakul cap is called a ''fur [[kufi]]'', while the Rampuri cap is called a ''velvet [[fez hat]]''. When worn properly, these caps are always slanted at an angle, and never placed straight on the head. [[Leopard]] print karakul caps are common in [[Africa]], but are rarely seen in the United States. In popular culture, [[Eddie Murphy]] wore the karakul cap in the movie ''[[Coming to America]]''.{{Citation needed|date=January 2021}} |
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== Gallery == |
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<gallery widths="200" heights="200"> |
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File:Karzai.jpg|alt=|Afghanistan former president, [[Hamed Karzai]] wearing a Karakul hat |
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File:25 01 2020 Banquete no Palácio Presidencial (49439510138).jpg|[[Ram Nath Kovind]], former president of India, wearing the hat |
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File:Tagore Iran.jpg|[[Rabindranath Tagore]] wearing a karakul hat in a 1932 group photograph in the [[National Consultative Assembly|Majlis]] of [[Iran]] |
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File:Die Kürschnerkunst, Hans Werner, 1914 (S. 199) Bucharische Lammfelle und daraus gefertigte 'Persianer'-Mützen.jpg|Bukhara Karakul skins and Karakul hats |
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File:Kushan devotee Mathura.jpg|[[Mathura art|Mathura]] sculpture depicting similar hat style |
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</gallery> |
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{{Commons category|Karakul caps}} |
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* [[Fur wedge cap]] |
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* [[Papakha]] |
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* [[Side cap]] (Pilotka) |
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* [[Taqiyah (cap)]] |
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== Notes == |
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{{notelist}} |
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{{reflist}} |
{{reflist}} |
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{{hats}} |
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{{Clothing in South Asia}} |
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{{Uzbek clothing}} |
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==External links== |
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The Caps of Pakistan [http://pakistaniat.com/2006/11/27/pakistan-caps/] |
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==Books== |
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Robert Coughlan, ''Tropical Africa'' (Time Life Publishers, Inc. 1962), p. 74-75. |
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[[Category:Afghan clothing]] |
[[Category:Afghan clothing]] |
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[[Category:Indian clothing]] |
[[Category:Indian clothing]] |
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[[Category: |
[[Category:Islamic male clothing]] |
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[[Category: |
[[Category:Muhammad Ali Jinnah]] |
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[[Category: |
[[Category:Pakistani headgear]] |
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[[Category:Woolen clothing]] |
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[[Category:Uzbek clothing]] |
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[[de:Karakulmütze]] |
Latest revision as of 04:39, 2 January 2025
The Karakul hat (Dari/Pashto/Uzbek/Urdu/Kashmiri: قراقلی), also known by other names,[a] is a hat made from the fur of the Karakul breed of sheep. It originally comes from Bukhara, Uzbekistan.[4][5][6][7] The fur from which it is made is referred to as Astrakhan, broadtail, qaraqulcha, or Persian lamb. The hat is peaked, and folds flat when taken off the wearer's head.
The cap is typically worn by Muslim men in Central and South Asia. It was worn by Muhammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan, where it is known as the Jinnah cap. The karakul, which had distinguished all educated urban men since the beginning of the 20th century, has fallen out of fashion in Afghanistan and Pakistan.[8][9][3]
Production
[edit]The cap is made of the fur of the Qaraqul or Karakul breed of sheep, which is found in the desert areas of Central Asia. The sheep have been named in connection to the city of Qorako‘l, a town in the Bukhara Region of Uzbekistan. Later, the cap became popular in Mazar Sharif, a city in Afghanistan, after which Uzbek craftsmen also brought the business to Pakistan.[10][11]
The type of wool from which these caps are made is popularly known as astar, astarkhan, broadtail, qaraqulcha and Irani menda. The literal meaning of Karakul, which is a Turkish word, is black lake.[12]
Design
[edit]In terms of design, the cap is peaked and has several parts. It folds flat when taken off the head. The cap has been particularly popular among the Muslim population of Central and South Asia, however, there is no religious significance attached to it.
The fur is obtained from a newly-born sheep, which gives the cap its tough and curly texture as well as a specific pattern.[13][14]
Kashmiri variations
[edit]Karakul caps have been worn by Kashmiris for the past several decades.[15] The Karakul cap is colloquially known as a "Karakuli" in the Kashmir Valley. The traditional headgear of the gentry in Kashmir has historically been the turban tied in a similar fashion to the Pashtun equivalent.
Most of the mainstream lawmakers enjoy wearing the Karakul caps. A Kashmiri groom frequently dons a Karakul Cap while waiting for his fiancée to join him at his in-laws' residence.
African variations
[edit]Both the velvet and faux fur versions are worn by men of African descent with Western suits, and African attire such as the grand boubou. Muslims of African ancestry wear these caps with the dishdasha. In urban slang, the karakul cap is called a fur kufi, while the Rampuri cap is called a velvet fez hat. When worn properly, these caps are always slanted at an angle, and never placed straight on the head. Leopard print karakul caps are common in Africa, but are rarely seen in the United States. In popular culture, Eddie Murphy wore the karakul cap in the movie Coming to America.[citation needed]
Gallery
[edit]-
Afghanistan former president, Hamed Karzai wearing a Karakul hat
-
Ram Nath Kovind, former president of India, wearing the hat
-
Bukhara Karakul skins and Karakul hats
-
Mathura sculpture depicting similar hat style
See also
[edit]- Astrakhan (fur)
- Fur wedge cap
- Papakha
- Side cap (Pilotka)
- Taqiyah (cap)
Notes
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ Ahmed, Akbar S. (2005) [First published 1997]. Jinnah, Pakistan, and Islamic Identity: The Search for Saladin. London: Routledge. p. 85. ISBN 978-1-134-75022-1.
- ^ "Decoding Afghanistan's colourful headgear culture". AlJazeera. 18 March 2022.
known as a Jinnah cap across the border in Pakistan, where it was popularised by the country's founder, Muhammad Ali Jinnah
- ^ a b Baig, Zulfiqar (9 October 2019). "Jinnah Cap – a dying legacy". The Express Tribune.
- ^ "Hamid Karzai's Famous Hat Made From Aborted Lamb Fetuses". FOXNews.com. Associated Press. Archived from the original on 1 May 2008.
- ^ "Qaraquls Burst Upon the Fashion World". Taipei Times. Associated Press. 27 May 2007. p. 12. Archived from the original on 16 December 2007.
- ^ Humane Society of the United States (12 December 2000). "HSUS Investigation Reveals Slaughter of Unborn and Newborn Lambs for Fur: Dateline NBC Features Undercover Investigation Documenting Animal Cruelty". Infurmation (Press release). Archived from the original on 31 May 2006.
- ^ "Transcript of NBC "Dateline" Feature on Karakul Production". furcommission.com. 11 December 2000. Archived from the original on 10 May 2008.
- ^ "Clothing in Afghanistan". Encyclopaedia Iranica. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 28 March 2016.
- ^ Nordland, Rob (26 January 2010). "The Afghan Leader's Hat, Always More Than Just Headgear, Is Losing Its Cachet". New York Times. Archived from the original on 10 June 2021. Retrieved 25 February 2017.
- ^ Yasin, Aamir (2019-12-08). "The last Jinnah cap maker in Rawalpindi". DAWN.COM. Retrieved 2023-01-24.
- ^ "Jinnah Cap – a dying legacy". The Express Tribune. 2019-10-08. Retrieved 2023-01-24.
- ^ KO (2022-03-24). "The Royal Headgear: Qarakul - Kashmir Observer". Retrieved 2023-01-24.
- ^ "Jinnah Cap – a dying legacy". The Express Tribune. 2019-10-08. Retrieved 2023-01-24.
- ^ "Why we stopped selling Karakul Caps". KashmirBox.com. 6 April 2019. Retrieved 2023-01-24.
- ^ M. Ashraf (1 January 2013). "The Karakul Cap". GreaterKashmir.com. Archived from the original on 28 January 2013. Retrieved 1 January 2013.