Balenciaga: Difference between revisions
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{{Short description|French-based Spanish luxury fashion line}} |
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'''Balenciaga''' is a fashion house founded by [[Cristóbal Balenciaga]], a Spanish [[fashion design|designer]], born in the [[Basque Country (historical territory)|Basque Country]]. He had a reputation as a couturier of uncompromising standards and was referred to as "the master of us all" by [[Christian Dior]].<ref>{{cite news | last =Menkes| first =Suzy| title =Miuccia Prada: 'The mistress of us all'| publisher = [[International Herald Tribune]] | date =2006-02-27| url =http://www.iht.com/articles/2006/02/26/opinion/rprada.php| accessdate = 2007-03-11 }}</ref> His bubble skirts and odd, feminine, yet ultra-modern shapes were trademarks of the house. The house of Balenciaga is now owned by the [[France|French]] multinational company [[PPR (company)|PPR]]. |
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{{Use mdy dates|date=November 2022}} |
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{{For|the surname|Balenciaga (surname)}} |
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{{Infobox company |
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| name = Balenciaga SA |
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| logo = [[File:Balenciaga2017Logo.svg|frameless|upright=1.15|class=skin-invert]] |
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| type = [[Subsidiary]] ([[S.A. (corporation)|société anonyme]]) |
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| industry = [[Fashion industry|Fashion]] |
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| predecessor = {{unbulleted list|Balenciaga y Compañía|EISA, S.A.}} |
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| foundation = [[San Sebastián]], [[Spain]], {{Start date and age|1919}} |
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| founder = [[Cristóbal Balenciaga]] |
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| location_country = [[Paris]], [[France]] |
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| location = |
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| origins = |
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| key_people = {{unbulleted list| Gianfranco Gianangeli <small>(CEO)</small> | [[Demna Gvasalia]] <small>(Creative director)</small>}} |
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| area_served = Worldwide |
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| services = |
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| revenue = |
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| operating_income = |
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| net_income = |
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| num_employees = 1,325{{cn|date=July 2024}} |
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| num_employees_year = 2019 |
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| parent = [[Kering]] |
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| divisions = |
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| subsid = |
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| owner = |
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| caption = |
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| image = Balenciaga (54024638524).jpg |
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| image_caption = Store in [[SoHo, Manhattan]] |
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| homepage = {{URL|balenciaga.com}} |
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| dissolved = |
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| footnotes = |
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}} |
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'''Balenciaga''' ({{IPAc-en|b|@|,|l|E|n|s|i|'|A:|g|@}} {{respell|bə|LEN|see|AH|gə}},<ref>{{cite American Heritage Dictionary|Balenciaga}}</ref> {{IPA|es|balenˈθjaɣa|lang}}, {{IPA|eu|balents̻i.aɣa|lang}}) is a Spanish luxury fashion house headquartered in [[Paris]]. It designs, manufactures and markets [[ready-to-wear]] footwear, handbags, and accessories, and licenses its name and branding to [[Coty Inc.|Coty]] for fragrances.<ref>{{Cite web |date=May 10, 2018 |title=What is the State of Luxury's Hundred Million Dollar Licensing Deals? |url=https://www.thefashionlaw.com/what-is-the-state-of-luxurys-hundred-million-dollar-licensing-deals/ |url-access=subscription |access-date=September 3, 2022 |website=The Fashion Law |language=en-US}}</ref> Balenciaga is one of the luxury brands owned by [[Kering]]. |
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Originally a Spanish brand, it was founded in 1919 by Spanish {{lang|fr|[[Haute couture|couturier]]}} [[Cristóbal Balenciaga]] in [[San Sebastián]]. Gianfranco Gianangeli has been CEO of Balenciaga since November 2024<ref name=":0">{{Cite news |last=Williams |first=Robert |last2=Kansara |first2=Vikram Alexei |date=2024-11-18 |title=Kering Names New CEOs at Saint Laurent and Balenciaga |url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/luxury/kering-names-new-ceos-at-saint-laurent-and-balenciaga/ |access-date=2024-12-07 |work=Business of Fashion}}</ref> and [[Demna Gvasalia]] its creative director since 2015. |
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==History== |
==History== |
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Cristóbal Balenciaga opened his first boutique in [[San Sebastián]], [[Spain]], in 1914,<ref name="va">{{cite web | title =Cristóbal Balenciaga | publisher = Victoria & Albert Museum | url =http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1211_sixties/balenciaga_page.htm | accessdate = 2007-03-11 }}</ref> which expanded to include branches in Madrid and Barcelona.<ref name="met">{{cite web | last = Charleston | first =Beth Duncuff | title =Cristobal Balenciaga (1895-1972)| work=Timeline of Art History| publisher =Metropolitan Museum of Art | date = Oct. 2004 | url =http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/bale/hd_bale.htm| accessdate = 2007-03-11 }}</ref> The Spanish royal family and the aristocracy wore his designs, but when the [[Spanish Civil War]] forced him to close his stores, Balenciaga moved to Paris.<ref name="va" /><ref name="met" /> |
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[[File:Balenciaga dresses museum display.jpg|thumb|Dresses designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga on display in Florence, Italy]] |
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The designer house is now run by [[Nicolas Ghesquière]]. |
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=== Founding to 1981=== |
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Balenciaga opened his [[Paris]] couture house on Avenue George V in August 1937, and his first runway show featured designs heavily influenced by the [[Spanish Renaissance]].<ref name="met" /> Balenciaga's success in Paris was nearly immediate. Within two years, the [[France|French]] press lauded him as a revolutionary, and his designs were highly sought-after.<ref name="met"/> [[Carmel Snow]], the editor of ''[[Harper's Bazaar]]'' was an early champion of his designs.<ref>{{cite book | last =Rowlands | first =Penelope | title =A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and Her Life In Fashion, Art, and Letters | publisher =Atria | date =2005 | pages = 286 and elsewhere | url =http://www.amazon.com/Dash-Daring-Carmel-Fashion-Letters/dp/0743480457}}</ref> |
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Cristóbal Balenciaga opened his first boutique in [[San Sebastián]], Spain, in 1919, and expanded to include branches in Madrid and Barcelona.<ref name="met">{{cite web | last = Charleston | first =Beth Duncuff | title =Cristobal Balenciaga (1895-1972)| work=Timeline of Art History| publisher =Metropolitan Museum of Art |date=October 2004 | url =http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/bale/hd_bale.htm| access-date = March 11, 2007 | archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20070127124703/http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/bale/hd_bale.htm| archive-date= January 27, 2007 | url-status= live}}</ref> The Spanish royal family and aristocracy wore his designs. When the [[Spanish Civil War]] forced him to close his stores, he moved to Paris.<ref name="met" /><ref name="va">{{cite web|title=Cristóbal Balenciaga |publisher=Victoria & Albert Museum |url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/features/1960s/fashion_designers/balenciaga/index.html |access-date=March 11, 2007 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071123224424/http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/features/1960s/fashion_designers/balenciaga/index.html |archive-date=November 23, 2007 }}</ref> |
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Balenciaga opened his Paris couture house on Avenue George V in August 1937, where his first fashion show featured designs heavily influenced by the [[Spanish Renaissance]].<ref name="met" /> His success was nearly immediate. In two years, the press lauded him as a revolutionary, and his designs were highly sought-after.<ref name="met" /> [[Carmel Snow]], the editor of ''[[Harper's Bazaar]]'', was an early champion of his designs.<ref>{{cite book | last =Rowlands | first =Penelope | title =A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and Her Life In Fashion, Art, and Letters | publisher =Atria | year =2005 | page = 286 and elsewhere| isbn =0743480457 }}</ref> |
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Customers risked their safety to travel to Europe during [[World War II]] to see Balenciaga's clothing.<ref name="met"/> During this period, he was noted for his "square coat," with sleeves cut in a single piece with the yoke, and for his designs with black (or black and brown) lace over bright pink fabric.<ref name="met"/> |
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Historians believe that Balenciaga's continued activity during the [[Paris in World War II|Nazi occupation of Paris]] was made possible by his connections with Spanish dictator General [[Francisco Franco]] who was [[Adolf Hitler]]'s close ally.<ref>{{cite web |last=Peter |first=Popham |title=Fashion and Fascism: A Love Story |work=The Independent |url=https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/news/fashion-and-fascism-ndash-love-story-2233481.html |date=March 6, 2011 |access-date=October 8, 2021 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210225022823/https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/news/fashion-and-fascism-ndash-love-story-2233481.html |archive-date=February 25, 2021 }}</ref> The relation to Franco was so close that Balenciaga designed clothing for the Franco family.<ref>{{Cite web |title=In Which Cristobal Balenciaga and Christian Dior Bring A New Dawn |url=http://thisrecording.com/today/2011/1/19/in-which-cristobal-balenciaga-and-christian-dior-bring-a-new.html |access-date=October 29, 2022 |website=This Recording |language=en}}</ref> The company was one of only 60 allowed to operate during the occupation, and the ongoing supply of raw materials from Spain, which were in short supply in Paris due to the war, gave Balenciaga a competitive advantage. However, he testified that he refused Hitler's request to transfer his company's activities to Berlin.<ref>{{cite web |title=5 Famous Fashion Designers Ties To The Nazis |publisher=The Fashion Spot |url=https://www.thefashionspot.com/buzz-news/latest-news/401637-tbt-5-famous-fashion-designers-ties-to-the-nazis/ |date=May 1, 2014 |access-date=October 8, 2021 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140509112535/http://www.thefashionspot.com:80/buzz-news/latest-news/401637-tbt-5-famous-fashion-designers-ties-to-the-nazis/ |archive-date=May 9, 2014 }}</ref><ref>{{cite web |last=Paul |first=Johnson |title=Cut Against The Bias |publisher=This Recording |url=http://thisrecording.com/today/2011/1/19/in-which-cristobal-balenciaga-and-christian-dior-bring-a-new.html |date=January 19, 2011 |access-date=October 8, 2021 |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110128045558/http://thisrecording.com:80/today/2011/1/19/in-which-cristobal-balenciaga-and-christian-dior-bring-a-new.html |archive-date=January 28, 2011 }}</ref> |
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However, it was not until the post-war years that the full scale of the inventiveness of this highly original designer became evident. His lines became more linear and sleek, diverging from the hourglass shape popularized by [[Christian Dior]]'s [[New Look]].<ref name="met"/> The fluidity of his silhouettes enabled him to manipulate the relationship between his clothing and women's bodies.<ref name="met"/> In 1951, he totally transformed the silhouette, broadening the shoulders and removing the waist. In 1955, he designed the tunic dress, which later developed into the chemise dress<ref name="met"/> of 1958. Other contributions in the postwar era included the spherical balloon jacket (1953), the high-waisted baby doll dress (1957), the cocoon coat (1957), the balloon skirt (1957), and the sack dress (1957).<ref name="met"/> In 1959, his work culminated in the Empire line, with high-waisted dresses and coats cut like kimonos. His manipulation of the waist, in particular, contributed to "what is considered to be his most important contribution to the world of fashion: a new silhouette for women."<ref name="met"/> |
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During the post-war years, his lines became more linear and sleek, diverging from the hourglass shape popularized by "[[Dior#"New_Look"|Christian Dior's New Look]]".<ref name="met" /> The fluidity of his silhouettes enabled him to manipulate the relationship between his clothing and women's bodies. In 1951, he transformed the silhouette, broadening the shoulders and removing the waist. In 1955, he designed the tunic dress, which later developed into the chemise dress of 1958.<ref name="met" /> Other contributions in the postwar era included the spherical balloon jacket (1953), the high-waisted baby doll dress (1957), the cocoon coat (1957), the balloon skirt (1957), and the sack dress (1957). In 1959, his work culminated in the Empire line, with high-waisted dresses and coats cut like [[kimono]]. His manipulation of the waist, in particular, constituted "what is considered to be his most important contribution to the world of fashion: a new silhouette for women".<ref name="met" /> |
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In the 1960s, Balenciaga was an innovator in his use of fabrics: he tended toward heavy fabrics, intricate embroidery, and bold materials.<ref name="met"/> His trademarks included "collars that stood away from the collarbone to give a swanlike appearance" and shortened "bracelet" sleeves.<ref name="met"/> His often spare, sculptural creations—including funnel-shape gowns of stiff duchess satin worn to acclaim by clients such as [[Pauline Fairfax Potter|Pauline de Rothschild]], [[Rachel Lambert Lloyd|Bunny Mellon]], [[Marella Caracciolo di Castagneto|Marella Agnelli]], [[Gloria Rubio y Alatorre|Gloria Guinness]] and [[Mona von Bismarck]]—were considered masterworks of haute couture in the 1950s and 1960s. In 1960 he designed the wedding dress for Queen Fabiola of Belgium made of ivory duchess satin trimmed with white mink at the collar and the hips. [[Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis|Jackie Kennedy]] famously upset [[John F. Kennedy]] for buying Balenciaga's expensive creations while he was President because he feared that the American public might think the purchases too lavish. Her haute couture bills were eventually discreetly paid by her father-in-law, [[Joseph P. Kennedy, Sr.|Joseph Kennedy]]. |
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In the 1960s, Balenciaga tended toward heavy fabrics, intricate embroidery, and bold materials.<ref name="met" /> His trademarks included "collars that stood away from the collarbone to give a swanlike appearance" and shortened "bracelet" sleeves.<ref name="met" /> His often spare, sculptural creations—including funnel-shape gowns of stiff duchess satin worn to acclaim by clients such as [[Pauline Fairfax Potter|Pauline de Rothschild]], [[Rachel Lambert Lloyd|Bunny Mellon]], [[Marella Caracciolo di Castagneto|Marella Agnelli]], [[Hope Portocarrero]], [[Gloria Rubio y Alatorre|Gloria Guinness]], and [[Mona von Bismarck]]—were considered masterworks of haute couture in the 1950s and 1960s. In 1960, he designed the wedding dress for [[Queen Fabiola of Belgium]] made of ivory duchess satin trimmed with white mink at the collar and the hips. [[Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis|Jackie Kennedy]] famously upset her husband by buying Balenciaga's expensive creations while [[John F. Kennedy]] was president – he apparently feared that the American public might think the purchases too lavish. Her haute couture bills were eventually discreetly paid by her father-in-law, [[Joseph P. Kennedy Sr.|Joseph Kennedy]].<ref>{{cite book |last=Brown |first=Barbara Pascarell |page=33 |date=2012 |title=Pretty in pink: Jacqueline Kennedy and the politics of fashion |url=https://www.proquest.com/openview/a0d267dda7458c60da96d88c5fbf92b5/1?pq-origsite=gscholar&cbl=18750 |location=New York |publisher=UMI |access-date=October 12, 2021}}</ref> |
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Cristóbal Balenciaga left the house in 1968.<ref name="met"/> |
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==== Protégés ==== |
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{{Expand|date=March 2007}} |
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Several designers who worked for Balenciaga would go on to open their own successful couture houses, notably [[Oscar de la Renta]] (1949), [[Andre Courreges]] (1950), [[Emanuel Ungaro]] (1958), but his most famous and noted [[protégé]] was [[Hubert de Givenchy]], who was the lone designer to side with Balenciaga against the [[Fédération française de la couture|Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne]] and also the press over the scheduling of his shows.{{citation needed|date=July 2013}} |
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==== Battle against the press ==== |
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==Balenciaga today== |
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In 1957, Balenciaga famously decided to show his collection to the fashion press the day before the clothing retail delivery date, not the standard four weeks before the retail delivery date the fashion industry followed at the time. By keeping the press unaware of the design of his garments until the day before they were shipped to stores, he hoped to curtail ongoing piracy and copying of his designs. The press resisted, finding it nearly impossible to get his work into their print deadlines, but Balenciaga and protégé [[Givenchy]] stood firm, seriously impacting their coverage and press of the era. His supporters would argue that rival [[Christian Dior]] would gain acclaim from copying Balenciaga's silhouettes and cuts, claiming them as his own original work; because Balenciaga was not interested in press coverage, the media, and consumers never knew. |
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In 1967, both designers reversed their decision and joined the traditional schedule. |
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Balenciaga is now owned by the [[Gucci Group]] (part of [[Pinault-Printemps-Redoute|PPR]]), and its womenswear and menswear is headed by [[Nicolas Ghesquière]].<ref>{{cite news | last =Menkes| first =Suzy| title =Nicolas Ghesquiere, a Creative Young Spirit in the Master Class, Balenciaga: Reviving and Revering| publisher = [[International Herald Tribune]] | date =2001-11-20| url =http://www.iht.com/articles/2001/11/20/frevive_ed3_.php | accessdate = 2007-03-11 }}</ref> |
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==== Battle against the Chambre ==== |
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There was some conflict within the house of Balenciaga on Nicolas Ghesquiere's designs. The Gucci group said that if Balenciaga didn't become profitable within the year 2007, they would replace him.{{Fact|date=March 2007}} Ghesquière's F/W 2005 line showed that the house was not only profitable, but also attracted a number of [[celebrity]] customers including [[editor-in-chief]] at [[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]], [[Anna Wintour]]. |
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Balenciaga defiantly resisted the rules, guidelines, and [[bourgeoisie]] status of the [[Fédération française de la couture|Chambre syndicale de la haute couture parisienne]], and, thus, was never a member. |
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Cristóbal Balenciaga closed his fashion house in 1968 and died in 1972. The house lay dormant until 1986.<ref name="met" /> |
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The house of Balenciaga designed the dresses worn by [[Jennifer Connelly]] and [[Nicole Kidman]] to the 2006 [[Academy Awards]], as well as the wedding gown Kidman wore for her recent marriage to [[Keith Urban]].<ref>[http://english.pravda.ru/society/showbiz/25-07-2006/83504-Kidman_urban-0 Kidman and Urban: happy marriage or misalliance?]</ref> [[Kylie Minogue]] also wore a Balenciaga dress for her "[[Slow (song)|Slow]]" music video and for her concert tour.<ref>[http://www.barco.com/corporate/en/pressreleases/show.asp?index=1003 Barco MiPIX and LED displays chosen for exclusive Kylie concert.]</ref> |
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===1981 to 2010=== |
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Today the brand is most famous for its line of motorcycle-inspired handbags, especially the famous "Lariat." Balenciaga has four exclusive boutiques in the United States. One Balenciaga store is located on 22nd St in New York,NY. A second store is located in Los Angeles, CA on Melrose Avenue. Recently, a third store opened at the famous shopping center South Coast Plaza, in Costa Mesa, CA. This store is 1200 square feet and includes coffin-like inset displays. The New York and Los Angeles boutiques carry both men's and women's ready-to-wear, while the South Coast Plaza boutique carries only women's clothing. The most recent store, located in Las Vegas inside Caesers Palace, carries only accessories. |
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[[File:Bilbao Fine Arts Museum, July 2010 (02).JPG|thumb|right|250px|Balenciaga exhibit, Fine Arts Museum ([[Museo de Bellas Artes de Bilbao]]), Bilbao, Spain]] |
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Balenciaga is now owned by [[Kering]] and its womenswear and menswear was headed by Nicolas Ghesquière.<ref>{{cite news | last =Menkes| first =Suzy| title =Nicolas Ghesquiere, a Creative Young Spirit in the Master Class, Balenciaga: Reviving and Revering| newspaper = International Herald Tribune | date =November 20, 2001| url =http://www.iht.com/articles/2001/11/20/frevive_ed3_.php | access-date = March 11, 2007 |archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20070129102945/http://www.iht.com/articles/2001/11/20/frevive_ed3_.php |archive-date = January 29, 2007}}</ref> |
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In 2002, Balenciaga's star, Nicolas Ghesquière, imitated the work of [[Kaisik Wong]], a designer from San Francisco. Ghesquiere created a patchwork vest in his spring collection that resembled one that Wong designed in 1973. Ghesquière admitted in an interview in Paris that he had copied the garment.<ref>{{Cite news|last=Horyn|first=Cathy|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2002/04/09/nyregion/is-copying-really-a-part-of-the-creative-process.html|title=Is Copying Really a Part of the Creative Process?|date=April 9, 2002|work=The New York Times|access-date=April 5, 2020|issn=0362-4331}}</ref> |
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Ghesquière's F/W 2005 line showed that the house was not only making money, but also attracted a number of celebrity customers including [[editor-in-chief]] at ''[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]'', [[Anna Wintour]].{{cn|date=December 2022}} |
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The House of Balenciaga designed the dresses worn by [[Jennifer Connelly]] and [[Nicole Kidman]] to the 2006 [[Academy Awards]], as well as the wedding gown Kidman wore when she married [[Keith Urban]].<ref>{{cite web|url=http://english.pravda.ru/society/showbiz/25-07-2006/83504-Kidman_urban-0|title=Kidman and Urban: happy marriage or misalliance?|work=English pravda.ru|date=July 25, 2006}}</ref> [[Kylie Minogue]] also wore a Balenciaga dress for her "[[Slow (Kylie Minogue song)|Slow]]" and "[[Red Blooded Woman]]" music videos and for her concert tour.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.barco.com/corporate/en/pressreleases/show.asp?index=1003|title=Barco – Barco MiPIX and LED displays chosen for exclusive Kylie concert.|work=barco.com|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20061015003230/http://www.barco.com/corporate/en/pressreleases/show.asp?index=1003|archive-date=October 15, 2006}}</ref> |
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Balenciaga's Fall/Winter 2007 show has wowed Teen Voque editor-in-chief Amy Astley so much that an entire recent spread in the magazine, titled "Global Studies" and shot in Beijing, was influenced by it. The line included skinny jodphers, tight, fitted blazers, beaded embellished scarves and other multicultural mixes. |
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Balenciaga's Fall/Winter 2007 show impressed ''[[Teen Vogue]]'' editor-in-chief [[Amy Astley]] so much that an entire spread in the magazine, titled "Global Studies" and shot in Beijing, was influenced by it. The line included skinny [[jodhpurs]], tight, fitted blazers, beaded embellished scarves, and other multicultural mixes.{{cn|date=December 2022}} |
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Balenciaga is also very well known for creating avant-garde structural pieces, straddling the edge of fashion and forecasting the future of women's ready-to-wear fashion. |
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Balenciaga is known for creating avant-garde, advanced structural pieces, straddling the edge of fashion and forecasting the future of women's ready-to-wear fashion. Vintage Balenciaga garments are popular among fashion editors, Hollywood stars, and models, and have been seen on [[Sienna Miller]],<ref>{{cite news |url=http://www.thecelebritydress.com/celebrity-gallery/ |title=Celebrity Dress |publisher=Thecelebritydress.com |access-date=March 25, 2011}}</ref> [[Lara Bingle]], [[Raquel Zimmerman]],<ref>{{cite news |url=http://www.slide.com/s/RTPEFK_M7j9VhJlBabaAVMfAotBEIKiw?referrer=hlnk |title=Raquel Zimmerman in vintage Balenciaga |publisher=slide.com |access-date=March 25, 2011 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110927101723/http://www.slide.com/s/RTPEFK_M7j9VhJlBabaAVMfAotBEIKiw?referrer=hlnk |archive-date=September 27, 2011 }}</ref> [[Caroline Trentini]], [[Emmanuelle Alt]],<ref>{{cite news |url=http://www.style.com/peopleparties/parties/scoop/fashionweek-030311_Vogue_Paris_Cocktails/ |title=The Hot and the Haute |date= October 2010|publisher=[[Style.com]] |access-date=March 25, 2011 |first=Katherine |last=Zarrella}}</ref> [[Tatiana Sorokko]],<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/10/27/SB6G1FF6R0.DTL |title=Tatiana Sorokko's Extending the Runway |date=November 1, 2010 |newspaper=[[San Francisco Chronicle]] |access-date=November 1, 2010 |first=Corolyne |last=Zinko |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101104071218/http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=%2Fc%2Fa%2F2010%2F10%2F27%2FSB6G1FF6R0.DTL |archive-date=November 4, 2010 |url-status=live }}</ref> [[Hilary Rhoda]], [[Jennifer Garner]], and [[Stephanie Seymour]], among others.<ref>{{cite magazine |url=http://www.instyle.com/instyle/celebrities/lookoftheday/photos/0,,20048428,00.html |title=Look of the Day |date=July 27, 2007 |magazine=[[InStyle]] |access-date=March 24, 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120311105224/http://www.instyle.com/instyle/celebrities/lookoftheday/photos/0,,20048428,00.html |archive-date=March 11, 2012 |url-status=dead }}</ref> Balenciaga is also frequently worn by actress [[Chloë Sevigny]], who is also a muse of Nicolas Ghesquière. |
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===2010 to present=== |
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[[File:Balenciaga handbags on display.jpg|thumb|Balenciaga handbags on display at the [[Galeries Lafayette]] in Paris]] |
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In March 2011 at [[De Young (museum)|M. H. de Young Museum]] in San Francisco, USA, Balenciaga celebrated the opening of Balenciaga and Spain, a 120-piece fashion retrospective of Cristóbal Balenciaga's career. The exhibition included many designs from the museum's encyclopedic costume collection. "You can't even measure it", said [[Rodarte]] designer Laura Mulleavy of Cristóbal Balenciaga's influence.<ref name="WWD.COM">{{cite news|url=http://www.wwd.com/eyescoop/a-spanish-night-for-balenciaga-in-san-francisco-3565172?module=today |title=A Spanish Night for Balenciaga in San Francisco |date=March 25, 2011 |work=[[Women's Wear Daily]] |access-date=March 27, 2011}}</ref> The $2,500-a-ticket fund-raiser for the museum drew 350 guests, including Denise Hale, [[Marissa Mayer]], [[Vanessa Getty]], Victoria Traina, Vanessa Traina, [[Jamie Tisch]], [[Gwyneth Paltrow]], [[Orlando Bloom]], [[Balthazar Getty]], [[Maggie Rizer]], [[Connie Nielsen]], [[Maria Bello]], and [[Mia Wasikowska]].<ref name="WWD.COM"/> |
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In June 2011, the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum opened in [[Getaria, Spain|Getaria]], Spain.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Home Page |url=http://www.cristobalbalenciagamuseoa.com/en// |access-date=April 28, 2022 |website=Cristóbal Balenciaga Museoa}}</ref> |
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In November 2012, Balenciaga announced that it was parting with creative director [[Nicolas Ghesquière]], ending his 15-year tenure.<ref>{{cite news|url=http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/11/05/nicolas-ghesquiere-to-leave-balenciaga/ |title=Nicolas Ghesquière to Leave Balenciaga |date=November 5, 2012 |work=The New York Times |access-date=November 5, 2012}}</ref><ref name="Balenciaga RTW Fall 2014">{{cite news| url=http://www.wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2014/review/balenciaga?src=n/newsAlert/20140227-5 | title=Balenciaga RTW Fall 2014 | work=WWD | date=February 27, 2014 | access-date=February 27, 2014}}</ref> The brand announced [[Alexander Wang (designer)|Alexander Wang]] as its new creative director.<ref name="Balenciaga RTW Fall 2014"/><ref>{{cite web |url=http://fashionetc.com/news/fashion/8203-alexander-wang-to-helm-balenciaga-and-own-label |author=Lindsey Schickner |title=Alexander Wang Will Helm Balenciaga And His Own Label |access-date=December 5, 2012 |archive-date=September 20, 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200920044625/http://fashionetc.com/news/fashion/8203-alexander-wang-to-helm-balenciaga-and-own-label |url-status=dead }}</ref> Wang presented his first collection for the label on 28 February 2013, at [[Paris Fashion Week]]. In 2014, the [[Tribunal de grande instance de Paris]] set a trial date for the lawsuit between Balenciaga vs. Ghesquière.<ref name="Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière Trial Date Set">{{cite news| url=http://www.wwd.com/business-news/legal/court-sets-balenciaga-ghesquiere-trial-date-7408226?src=nl/mornReport/20140205 | title=Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière Trial Date Set | work=WWD | date=February 4, 2014 | access-date=February 5, 2014 | author=Socha, Miles}}</ref> Balenciaga claimed that Ghesquière's comments in the magazine ''System'' had hurt the company's image.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://fashionista.com/2014/08/nicolas-ghesquiere-balenciaga-suit |title=BALENCIAGA VS NICOLAS GHESQUIERE CASE TO BE SETTLED OUT OF COURT |website=Fashionista.com |date=August 27, 2014 |access-date=June 21, 2016}}</ref> The highly publicized suit was mediated out of court. |
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In July 2015, Balenciaga announced it was parting with creative director [[Alexander Wang (designer)|Alexander Wang]] after three years. The Spring/Summer 2016 show was his last, featuring white lounge wear made from soft, natural fabrics.<ref>{{cite web|title = Balenciaga Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show|url = http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/balenciaga|website = Vogue|date = October 2, 2015|access-date = October 7, 2015}}</ref> In early October 2015, the brand appointed [[Demna Gvasalia]] as its new creative director.<ref name=":2">{{cite web|first = Maya|last = Singer|title = Vetements's Demna Gvasalia Is Balenciaga's New Artistic Director|date = October 6, 2015|url = http://www.vogue.com/13357449/balenciaga-artistic-director-vetements-demna-gvasalia/|access-date = October 7, 2015|archive-date = December 24, 2016|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20161224161646/http://www.vogue.com/13357449/balenciaga-artistic-director-vetements-demna-gvasalia|url-status = dead}}</ref> |
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In October 2016, Cédric Charbit was appointed CEO.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Socha |first=Miles |date=2016-10-24 |title=Balenciaga Names Cédric Charbit as CEO |url=https://wwd.com/feature/balenciaga-demna-vetements-ceo-sources-10689496/ |access-date=2024-11-20 |website=WWD |language=en-US}}</ref> Formerly the executive vice president of product and marketing at Saint Laurent, Charbit steered Balenciaga in a commercial direction. Under his tenure, the brand experienced significant growth; analysts estimated $2 billion in revenue for 2022.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2024-11-18 |title=Cédric Charbit {{!}} BoF 500 {{!}} The People Shaping the Global Fashion Industry |url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/people/cedric-charbit/ |access-date=2024-11-20 |website=The Business of Fashion |language=en}}</ref> |
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In 2018, Balenciaga was the subject of a social media backlash in China when personnel at one of Balenciaga's Paris stores assaulted a Chinese tourist.<ref name=":1">{{Cite book |last=Simpson |first=Tim |title=Betting on Macau: Casino Capitalism and China's Consumer Revolution |date=2023 |publisher=[[University of Minnesota Press]] |isbn=978-1-5179-0031-1 |series=Globalization and Community series |location=Minneapolis}}</ref>{{Rp|page=218}} |
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In, April 2021 Gvasalia presented his new Pre-Fall 2021 collection, as promoted by ''[[Vanity Teen]]'' magazine.<ref>[https://www.vanityteen.com/balenciaga-pre-fall-2021-collection/ Colección Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2021] April 19, 2021. ''Vanity Teen.''</ref> In August 2021, [[Justin Bieber]] was announced as the new face of Balenciaga.<ref>{{Cite web|date=August 3, 2021|title=Bieber for Balenciaga|url=http://officemagazine.net/bieber-balenciaga|access-date=August 9, 2021|website=Office Magazine|language=en}}</ref> In September 2021, the brand faced backlash when it released [[trompe-l'œil]] sweatpants with the illusion of plaid boxers sticking out the top with a price tag of $1,190.<ref>{{Cite web|last=Yancey-Bragg|first=N'dea|title=Fashion designer Balenciaga accused of cultural appropriation over $1,190 sweatpants|url=https://www.usatoday.com/story/life/fashion/2021/09/13/balenciaga-racist-sweatpants-cultural-appropriation-accusations/8320213002/|date=September 13, 2021|access-date=September 14, 2021|website=USA TODAY|language=en-US}}</ref> |
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In May 2022, Balenciaga announced that it accepts crypto payments.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.msn.com/en-in/money/topstories/after-gucci-tag-heuer-french-fashion-major-balenciaga-will-also-accept-crypto-payments/ar-AAXCy4a?ocid=uxbndlbing | title=After Gucci, TAG Heuer, French fashion major Balenciaga will also accept crypto payments | website=[[MSN]] }}</ref><ref>{{cite web |first1=Samantha|last1=Conti|first2=Ryma|last2=Chikhoune|first3=Leigh|last3=Nordstrom|date=22 May 2022|url=https://sg.finance.yahoo.com/news/balenciaga-takes-crypto-rich-charities-050006056.html?guccounter=1&guce_referrer=aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYmluZy5jb20v&guce_referrer_sig=AQAAANqYmIXhn5-oO-XyrefNdIOwH3kii1irD_OVxIbKfek2LAe475rHGWXOPmeMAJOg7rOMN8sASKWC0cafsmeNs6fr9V0wI-JhZHQwwJIBKetF6KeuWdEOaxQUVRMBzjsMwbw_rgB4wSFU-gUX8_eVHXSWfEsOBLOC__ijkwAntZY- | title=Balenciaga Takes Crypto, the Rich's Charities|website=[[Yahoo! Finance]] }}</ref> |
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In October 2022 Balenciaga announced that it was severing its ties to [[Kanye West]] due to his anti-semitic comments.<ref>{{Cite web |first=Jordan|last=Hart |date=October 22, 2022 |title=Kanye West refuses to be canceled despite Vogue and Balenciaga being the latest among these fashion companies to sever ties |url=https://www.businessinsider.com/balenciaga-gap-yeezy-adidas-fashion-brands-dumped-kanye-west-2022-10 |access-date=October 22, 2022 |magazine=[[Business Insider]] |language=en}}</ref> |
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In December 2023, Balenciaga was awarded by the [[People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals]] ([[People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals|PETA]]) with the prize for best luxury product for its entirely vegan coat made from Lunaform, a plant-based leather.<ref>{{Cite web |title=PETA Fashion Awards 2023 : Isabel Marant, SMCP et Balenciaga parmi les lauréats |url=https://fashionunited.fr/actualite/business/peta-fashion-awards-2023-isabel-marant-smcp-et-balenciaga-parmi-les-laureats/2023121233770 |access-date=7 May 2024 |website=Fashion United}}</ref> |
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In May 2024, Balenciaga opened a new flagship store in [[Tokyo]].<ref>{{Cite web |title=Balenciaga ouvre un nouveau flagship à Tokyo |url=https://fashionunited.fr/actualite/retail/balenciaga-ouvre-un-nouveau-flagship-a-tokyo/2024050334952 |access-date=7 May 2024 |website=Fashion United}}</ref> Later in June, Balenciaga opened its first store in [[Cancún]], [[Mexico]].<ref>{{Cite web |title=Balenciaga opens first store in Cancún, Mexico |url=https://ww.fashionnetwork.com/news/Balenciaga-opens-first-store-in-cancun-mexico,1640092.html#ifm-bachelor-of-arts |access-date=18 June 2024 |website=Fashion Network}}</ref> |
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In November 2024, Gianfranco Gianangeli was appointed CEO, replacing Cédric Charbit who had lead the brand since 2016.<ref name=":0" /> |
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==== Brand Ambassadors ==== |
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In July 2023, Balenciaga announced its first-ever brand ambassadors, [[Isabelle Huppert]] and [[Krit Amnuaydechkorn|PP Krit Amnuaydechkorn]]. This is the first time in history, Balenciaga has announced a brand ambassador <ref>{{cite web |last1=Templeton |first1=Lily |title=Balenciaga Taps Isabelle Huppert, PP Krit Amnuaydechkorn as First Brand Ambassadors |url=https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/balenciaga-first-brand-ambassadors-isabelle-huppert-pp-krit-amnuaydechkorn-1235757257/ |website=WWD |date=31 July 2023}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=PP Krit & Isabelle Huppert Are Named As Balenciaga's First Brand Ambassadors |url=https://www.lofficielsingapore.com/fashion/balenciaga-pp-krit-isabelle-huppert-first-brand-ambassadors-fashion-news}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=Balenciaga Brand Ambassadors |url=https://www.balenciaga.com/en-th/balenciaga-brand-ambassadors |website=www.balenciaga.com |language=en}}</ref> |
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In November 2023, Balenciaga appointed [[Michelle Yeoh]] as its brand ambassador.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Balenciaga names Michelle Yeoh as new global brand ambassador |url=https://insideretail.com.au/sectors/balenciaga-names-michelle-yeoh-as-new-global-brand-ambassador-202311 |access-date=13 November 2023 |website=Inside Retail|date=November 13, 2023 }}</ref> |
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In December 2023, Balenciaga introduced its new brand ambassador, [[Nicole Kidman]].<ref>{{Cite web |title=Nicole Kidman is the new luxury ambassador for Balenciaga |url=https://fashionunited.uk/news/people/nicole-kidman-is-the-new-luxury-ambassador-for-balenciaga/2023120472909 |access-date=17 December 2023 |website=Fashion United|date=December 4, 2023 }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Balenciaga Names Nicole Kidman as New Brand Ambassador |url=https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/nicole-kidman-balenciaga-brand-ambassador-announcement |access-date=17 December 2023 |website=L'Officiel USA}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Nicole Kidman Is 'Excited' to Be Balenciaga's Newest Brand Ambassador |url=https://people.com/nicole-kidman-balenciaga-brand-ambassador-8410150 |access-date=17 December 2023 |website=People}}</ref> |
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In January 2024, [[Kim Kardashian]] became the brand ambassador of Balenciaga.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Kim Kardashian Is Officially a Balenciaga Brand Ambassador |url=https://hypebeast.com/2024/1/balenciaga-kim-kardashian-official-brand-ambassador |access-date=24 January 2024 |website=Hypebeast|date=January 22, 2024 }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Kim Kardashian Is Officially a Balenciaga Ambassador |url=https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/kim-kardashian-balenciaga-ambassador-1236145088/ |access-date=24 January 2024 |website=WWD|date=January 22, 2024 }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Kim Kardashian 'excited' to be Balenciaga's brand ambassador |url=https://www.nation.com.pk/24-Jan-2024/kim-kardashian-excited-to-be-balenciaga-s-brand-ambassador |access-date=24 January 2024 |website=The Nation|date=January 24, 2024 }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Kim Kardashian reunites with Balenciaga as new brand ambassador |url=https://www.usatoday.com/videos/life/fashion/2024/01/23/kim-kardashian-reunites-balenciaga-brand-ambassador/72320878007/ |access-date=24 January 2024 |website=USA Today}}</ref> |
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==== Support for Ukraine ==== |
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In March 2022 during [[Paris Fashion Week]], Balenciaga expressed support for Ukraine during the [[Russo-Ukrainian War]]. T-shirts in yellow and blue (like the [[Flag of Ukraine|Ukrainian flag]]) were placed on the chairs. Creative director [[Demna Gvasalia]] recited a poem "Live Ukraine, live for beauty" by Ukrainian writer [[Oleksandr Oles]] at the beginning and end of the show. He noted that this show is self-explanatory, as a dedication to "fearlessness, resistance, and the victory of love and peace".<ref>{{Cite web |date=March 7, 2022 |title=Balenciaga supports Ukraine at Paris Fashion Week |url=https://www.thenationalnews.com/lifestyle/luxury/2022/03/07/balenciaga-supports-ukraine-at-paris-fashion-week/ |access-date=March 9, 2022 |website=The National |language=en}}</ref> The brand also made donations to the UN [[World Food Programme]] to support Ukrainian refugees.<ref>{{Cite magazine |date=March 4, 2022 |title=How the fashion industry is reacting to the crisis in Ukraine |url=https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/a39296118/fashion-brands-ukraine-support/ |access-date=March 10, 2022 |magazine=Harper's BAZAAR |language=en-GB}}</ref> |
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==== Child advertising controversy ==== |
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In November 2022, an advertising campaign posted on Balenciaga's [[Instagram]] account featured children holding teddy bears, which were dressed in bondage and [[BDSM]] gear.<ref name="nytisyuk">{{cite web |last1=Paton |first1=Elizabeth |last2=Friedman |first2=Vanessa |last3=Testa |first3=Jessica |date=December 2, 2022 |title=What to Know About Balenciaga's Campaign Controversy |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2022/11/28/style/balenciaga-campaign-controversy.amp.html |access-date=December 3, 2022 |website=New York Times}}</ref> Following heavy criticism, Balenciaga later apologized and removed all posts connected to the photo campaign. Meanwhile, the photographer, Gabriele Galimberti, said that both the children and the objects which appeared in the photos were all selected by Balenciaga.<ref name="nytisyuk" /><ref>{{cite news |date=22 November 2022 |title=Balenciaga Apologizes for Controversial Kid's Campaign |url=https://www.papermag.com/balenciaga-apologizes-kids-campaign-2658767901.html |access-date=22 November 2022 |work=[[Paper (magazine)|Paper]]}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |last=Herlihy |first=Brianna |date=22 November 2022 |title=Balenciaga sparks outrage over 'depraved' ad campaign with toddlers, teddy bears in bondage |url=https://www.foxnews.com/politics/balenciaga-outrage-depraved-ad-campaign-toddlers-teddy-bears-bondage |work=[[Fox News]]}}</ref> Hours later, Balenciaga apologized for a separate, earlier advertisement, in which a $3,000 Balenciaga handbag sits amongst papers which include the text from a Supreme Court opinion in the ''[[Ashcroft v. Free Speech Coalition]]'', which was a child pornography case.<ref>{{Cite news |last=Kolirin |first=Lianne |date=23 November 2022 |title=Balenciaga apologizes for adverts featuring children holding bondage bears |url=https://www.cnn.com/style/article/balenciaga-bondage-bears-intl-scli/index.html |access-date=2022-11-24 |work=[[CNN]]}}</ref><ref name="nytisyuk" /> Balenciaga announced that it was taking legal action in pursuit of $25 million against the production company North Six and set designer Nicholas Des Jardins, claiming that they were responsible for the advertisement with the child pornography court document. In response, the set designer's attorney said that Balenciaga representatives were present at the shoot and handled the papers and props used.<ref>{{Cite web |last1=Kavilanz |first1=Parija |last2=Kolirin |first2=Lianne |last3=Owoseje |first3=Toyin |date=2022-11-29 |title=Balenciaga suing production company for $25 million over controversial campaign |url=https://www.cnn.com/style/article/balenciaga-lawsuit-controversial-campaign/index.html |access-date=2022-11-29 |website=CNN}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |last=Paúl |first=María Luisa |date=28 November 2022 |title=After teddy bear backlash, Balenciaga announces lawsuit for separate ad |url=https://www.washingtonpost.com/nation/2022/11/28/balenciaga-campaign-ad-scandal-lawsuit-porn/ |access-date=28 November 2022 |newspaper=[[The Washington Post]]}}</ref> Balenciaga dropped their legal action on 2 December.<ref>{{cite web |date=December 2, 2022 |title=Balenciaga drops lawsuit, Demna apologises amid campaign controversy |url=https://www.voguebusiness.com/fashion/balenciaga-drops-lawsuit-demna-apologises-amid-campaign-controversy |access-date=December 3, 2022 |website=[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]}}</ref> |
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In another image, featuring the actress [[Isabelle Huppert]], two art books can be seen in the background: one is based on ''[[The Cremaster Cycle]]'' (1994–2002) by the filmmaker [[Matthew Barney]], and one is ''As Sweet as It Gets'' (2014) by the Belgian painter [[Michaël Borremans]]. Some [[Twitter]] users tried to connect imagery from Barney's and Borremans' works to the court document, and based on this suggested there was a hidden message about child abuse in Balenciaga's marketing material.<ref>{{cite news |last=Dafoe |first=Taylor |date=30 November 2022 |title=How Artists Matthew Barney and Michaël Borremans Found Themselves Swept Up in Controversy Over a Balenciaga Ad Campaign |url=https://news.artnet.com/art-world/matthew-barney-michael-borremans-balenciaga-controversy-2219987 |access-date=1 December 2022 |publisher=[[Artnet]]}}</ref> |
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Carl W. Jones from the School of Media and Communication at the [[University of Westminster]] described the campaign as an attempt of [[Shock advertising|shockvertising]].<ref>{{cite news |last=Jones |first=Carl W. |title=Balenciaga's controversial new campaign and the long history of 'shockvertising' |url=https://theconversation.com/balenciagas-controversial-new-campaign-and-the-long-history-of-shockvertising-195778 |access-date=7 December 2022 |work=The Conversation |language=en}}</ref> Balenciaga brand-ambassador [[Kim Kardashian]], who initially said nothing in public about the scandal, started selling her Balenciaga clothing and shoes.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2023-01-12 |title=Kim Kardashian sells discounted Balenciaga items after teddy bear scandal |url=https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/kim-kardashian-sells-balenciaga-scandal-b2261158.html |access-date=2023-01-13 |website=The Independent}}</ref> |
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== Directors == |
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=== CEOs === |
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* 2016-2024<ref name=":0" />: Cédric Charbit |
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* Since 2024<ref name=":0" />: Gianfranco Gianangeli |
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=== Creative directors === |
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* 1919-1968: [[Cristóbal Balenciaga]] |
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* 1987-1992: [[Michel Goma]] |
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* 1992-1997: [[Josephus Thimister]] |
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* 1997-2012: [[Nicolas Ghesquière]] |
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* 2013-2015<ref>{{Cite web |date=July 31, 2015 |title=Alexander Wang quitte la maison Balenciaga |url=https://www.vogue.fr/mode/news-mode/articles/alexander-wang-quitte-la-maison-balenciaga/27189 |access-date=27 November 2023 |website=Vogue}}</ref>: [[Alexander Wang (designer)|Alexander Wang]] |
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* Since 2015<ref name=":2" />: [[Demna Gvasalia]] |
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== See also == |
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* [[Vogue World 2024]] |
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==References== |
==References== |
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{{ |
{{Reflist}} |
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Balenciaga only has two operating boutiques in the United States. One in NEw york and the other in LA. |
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==External links== |
==External links== |
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{{Commons category|Balenciaga}} |
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* [http://www.balenciaga.com/ Official Balenciaga Site] |
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{{Portal|Fashion}} |
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* [http://www.balenciagafan.com Balenciaga News] |
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* [https://www.balenciaga.com/ Official website] |
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* [http://www.thelondonpaper.com/galleries/paris Paris Fashion Show 2007: Balenciaga Catwalk] |
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* [http://www.thelondonpaper.com/galleries/paris Paris Fashion Show 2007: Balenciaga Catwalk] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071017231719/http://www.thelondonpaper.com/galleries/paris/ |date=October 17, 2007 }} |
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* [http://tlc.otis.edu/Faculty%20Development/beall.html Professor Aiko Beall of Otis College of Art and Design on Balenciaga] |
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* [http://cristobalbalenciagamuseoa.com/ The Cristobal Balenciaga Museum in Getaria, Spain] |
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* {{cite web |publisher= [[Victoria and Albert Museum]] |
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* [https://web.archive.org/web/20100528051824/http://www.otis.edu/life_otis/faculty_life/faculty_development/grantee_reports/aiko_beall.html Professor Aiko Beall of Otis College of Art and Design on Balenciaga] |
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|url= http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1486_couture/explore.php |
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* {{fashionlabel|id=balenciaga}} |
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|title= Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies}} |
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[[pt:Balenciaga]] |
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Latest revision as of 07:03, 24 December 2024
Company type | Subsidiary (société anonyme) |
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Industry | Fashion |
Predecessor |
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Founded | San Sebastián, Spain, 1919 |
Founder | Cristóbal Balenciaga |
Headquarters | |
Area served | Worldwide |
Key people |
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Number of employees | 1,325[citation needed] (2019) |
Parent | Kering |
Website | balenciaga |
Balenciaga (/bəˌlɛnsiˈɑːɡə/ bə-LEN-see-AH-gə,[1] Spanish: [balenˈθjaɣa], Basque: [balents̻i.aɣa]) is a Spanish luxury fashion house headquartered in Paris. It designs, manufactures and markets ready-to-wear footwear, handbags, and accessories, and licenses its name and branding to Coty for fragrances.[2] Balenciaga is one of the luxury brands owned by Kering.
Originally a Spanish brand, it was founded in 1919 by Spanish couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga in San Sebastián. Gianfranco Gianangeli has been CEO of Balenciaga since November 2024[3] and Demna Gvasalia its creative director since 2015.
History
[edit]Founding to 1981
[edit]Cristóbal Balenciaga opened his first boutique in San Sebastián, Spain, in 1919, and expanded to include branches in Madrid and Barcelona.[4] The Spanish royal family and aristocracy wore his designs. When the Spanish Civil War forced him to close his stores, he moved to Paris.[4][5]
Balenciaga opened his Paris couture house on Avenue George V in August 1937, where his first fashion show featured designs heavily influenced by the Spanish Renaissance.[4] His success was nearly immediate. In two years, the press lauded him as a revolutionary, and his designs were highly sought-after.[4] Carmel Snow, the editor of Harper's Bazaar, was an early champion of his designs.[6]
Historians believe that Balenciaga's continued activity during the Nazi occupation of Paris was made possible by his connections with Spanish dictator General Francisco Franco who was Adolf Hitler's close ally.[7] The relation to Franco was so close that Balenciaga designed clothing for the Franco family.[8] The company was one of only 60 allowed to operate during the occupation, and the ongoing supply of raw materials from Spain, which were in short supply in Paris due to the war, gave Balenciaga a competitive advantage. However, he testified that he refused Hitler's request to transfer his company's activities to Berlin.[9][10]
During the post-war years, his lines became more linear and sleek, diverging from the hourglass shape popularized by "Christian Dior's New Look".[4] The fluidity of his silhouettes enabled him to manipulate the relationship between his clothing and women's bodies. In 1951, he transformed the silhouette, broadening the shoulders and removing the waist. In 1955, he designed the tunic dress, which later developed into the chemise dress of 1958.[4] Other contributions in the postwar era included the spherical balloon jacket (1953), the high-waisted baby doll dress (1957), the cocoon coat (1957), the balloon skirt (1957), and the sack dress (1957). In 1959, his work culminated in the Empire line, with high-waisted dresses and coats cut like kimono. His manipulation of the waist, in particular, constituted "what is considered to be his most important contribution to the world of fashion: a new silhouette for women".[4]
In the 1960s, Balenciaga tended toward heavy fabrics, intricate embroidery, and bold materials.[4] His trademarks included "collars that stood away from the collarbone to give a swanlike appearance" and shortened "bracelet" sleeves.[4] His often spare, sculptural creations—including funnel-shape gowns of stiff duchess satin worn to acclaim by clients such as Pauline de Rothschild, Bunny Mellon, Marella Agnelli, Hope Portocarrero, Gloria Guinness, and Mona von Bismarck—were considered masterworks of haute couture in the 1950s and 1960s. In 1960, he designed the wedding dress for Queen Fabiola of Belgium made of ivory duchess satin trimmed with white mink at the collar and the hips. Jackie Kennedy famously upset her husband by buying Balenciaga's expensive creations while John F. Kennedy was president – he apparently feared that the American public might think the purchases too lavish. Her haute couture bills were eventually discreetly paid by her father-in-law, Joseph Kennedy.[11]
Protégés
[edit]Several designers who worked for Balenciaga would go on to open their own successful couture houses, notably Oscar de la Renta (1949), Andre Courreges (1950), Emanuel Ungaro (1958), but his most famous and noted protégé was Hubert de Givenchy, who was the lone designer to side with Balenciaga against the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne and also the press over the scheduling of his shows.[citation needed]
Battle against the press
[edit]In 1957, Balenciaga famously decided to show his collection to the fashion press the day before the clothing retail delivery date, not the standard four weeks before the retail delivery date the fashion industry followed at the time. By keeping the press unaware of the design of his garments until the day before they were shipped to stores, he hoped to curtail ongoing piracy and copying of his designs. The press resisted, finding it nearly impossible to get his work into their print deadlines, but Balenciaga and protégé Givenchy stood firm, seriously impacting their coverage and press of the era. His supporters would argue that rival Christian Dior would gain acclaim from copying Balenciaga's silhouettes and cuts, claiming them as his own original work; because Balenciaga was not interested in press coverage, the media, and consumers never knew.
In 1967, both designers reversed their decision and joined the traditional schedule.
Battle against the Chambre
[edit]Balenciaga defiantly resisted the rules, guidelines, and bourgeoisie status of the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture parisienne, and, thus, was never a member.
Cristóbal Balenciaga closed his fashion house in 1968 and died in 1972. The house lay dormant until 1986.[4]
1981 to 2010
[edit]Balenciaga is now owned by Kering and its womenswear and menswear was headed by Nicolas Ghesquière.[12]
In 2002, Balenciaga's star, Nicolas Ghesquière, imitated the work of Kaisik Wong, a designer from San Francisco. Ghesquiere created a patchwork vest in his spring collection that resembled one that Wong designed in 1973. Ghesquière admitted in an interview in Paris that he had copied the garment.[13]
Ghesquière's F/W 2005 line showed that the house was not only making money, but also attracted a number of celebrity customers including editor-in-chief at Vogue, Anna Wintour.[citation needed]
The House of Balenciaga designed the dresses worn by Jennifer Connelly and Nicole Kidman to the 2006 Academy Awards, as well as the wedding gown Kidman wore when she married Keith Urban.[14] Kylie Minogue also wore a Balenciaga dress for her "Slow" and "Red Blooded Woman" music videos and for her concert tour.[15]
Balenciaga's Fall/Winter 2007 show impressed Teen Vogue editor-in-chief Amy Astley so much that an entire spread in the magazine, titled "Global Studies" and shot in Beijing, was influenced by it. The line included skinny jodhpurs, tight, fitted blazers, beaded embellished scarves, and other multicultural mixes.[citation needed]
Balenciaga is known for creating avant-garde, advanced structural pieces, straddling the edge of fashion and forecasting the future of women's ready-to-wear fashion. Vintage Balenciaga garments are popular among fashion editors, Hollywood stars, and models, and have been seen on Sienna Miller,[16] Lara Bingle, Raquel Zimmerman,[17] Caroline Trentini, Emmanuelle Alt,[18] Tatiana Sorokko,[19] Hilary Rhoda, Jennifer Garner, and Stephanie Seymour, among others.[20] Balenciaga is also frequently worn by actress Chloë Sevigny, who is also a muse of Nicolas Ghesquière.
2010 to present
[edit]In March 2011 at M. H. de Young Museum in San Francisco, USA, Balenciaga celebrated the opening of Balenciaga and Spain, a 120-piece fashion retrospective of Cristóbal Balenciaga's career. The exhibition included many designs from the museum's encyclopedic costume collection. "You can't even measure it", said Rodarte designer Laura Mulleavy of Cristóbal Balenciaga's influence.[21] The $2,500-a-ticket fund-raiser for the museum drew 350 guests, including Denise Hale, Marissa Mayer, Vanessa Getty, Victoria Traina, Vanessa Traina, Jamie Tisch, Gwyneth Paltrow, Orlando Bloom, Balthazar Getty, Maggie Rizer, Connie Nielsen, Maria Bello, and Mia Wasikowska.[21]
In June 2011, the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum opened in Getaria, Spain.[22]
In November 2012, Balenciaga announced that it was parting with creative director Nicolas Ghesquière, ending his 15-year tenure.[23][24] The brand announced Alexander Wang as its new creative director.[24][25] Wang presented his first collection for the label on 28 February 2013, at Paris Fashion Week. In 2014, the Tribunal de grande instance de Paris set a trial date for the lawsuit between Balenciaga vs. Ghesquière.[26] Balenciaga claimed that Ghesquière's comments in the magazine System had hurt the company's image.[27] The highly publicized suit was mediated out of court.
In July 2015, Balenciaga announced it was parting with creative director Alexander Wang after three years. The Spring/Summer 2016 show was his last, featuring white lounge wear made from soft, natural fabrics.[28] In early October 2015, the brand appointed Demna Gvasalia as its new creative director.[29]
In October 2016, Cédric Charbit was appointed CEO.[30] Formerly the executive vice president of product and marketing at Saint Laurent, Charbit steered Balenciaga in a commercial direction. Under his tenure, the brand experienced significant growth; analysts estimated $2 billion in revenue for 2022.[31]
In 2018, Balenciaga was the subject of a social media backlash in China when personnel at one of Balenciaga's Paris stores assaulted a Chinese tourist.[32]: 218
In, April 2021 Gvasalia presented his new Pre-Fall 2021 collection, as promoted by Vanity Teen magazine.[33] In August 2021, Justin Bieber was announced as the new face of Balenciaga.[34] In September 2021, the brand faced backlash when it released trompe-l'œil sweatpants with the illusion of plaid boxers sticking out the top with a price tag of $1,190.[35]
In May 2022, Balenciaga announced that it accepts crypto payments.[36][37]
In October 2022 Balenciaga announced that it was severing its ties to Kanye West due to his anti-semitic comments.[38]
In December 2023, Balenciaga was awarded by the People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) with the prize for best luxury product for its entirely vegan coat made from Lunaform, a plant-based leather.[39]
In May 2024, Balenciaga opened a new flagship store in Tokyo.[40] Later in June, Balenciaga opened its first store in Cancún, Mexico.[41]
In November 2024, Gianfranco Gianangeli was appointed CEO, replacing Cédric Charbit who had lead the brand since 2016.[3]
Brand Ambassadors
[edit]In July 2023, Balenciaga announced its first-ever brand ambassadors, Isabelle Huppert and PP Krit Amnuaydechkorn. This is the first time in history, Balenciaga has announced a brand ambassador [42][43][44]
In November 2023, Balenciaga appointed Michelle Yeoh as its brand ambassador.[45]
In December 2023, Balenciaga introduced its new brand ambassador, Nicole Kidman.[46][47][48]
In January 2024, Kim Kardashian became the brand ambassador of Balenciaga.[49][50][51][52]
Support for Ukraine
[edit]In March 2022 during Paris Fashion Week, Balenciaga expressed support for Ukraine during the Russo-Ukrainian War. T-shirts in yellow and blue (like the Ukrainian flag) were placed on the chairs. Creative director Demna Gvasalia recited a poem "Live Ukraine, live for beauty" by Ukrainian writer Oleksandr Oles at the beginning and end of the show. He noted that this show is self-explanatory, as a dedication to "fearlessness, resistance, and the victory of love and peace".[53] The brand also made donations to the UN World Food Programme to support Ukrainian refugees.[54]
Child advertising controversy
[edit]In November 2022, an advertising campaign posted on Balenciaga's Instagram account featured children holding teddy bears, which were dressed in bondage and BDSM gear.[55] Following heavy criticism, Balenciaga later apologized and removed all posts connected to the photo campaign. Meanwhile, the photographer, Gabriele Galimberti, said that both the children and the objects which appeared in the photos were all selected by Balenciaga.[55][56][57] Hours later, Balenciaga apologized for a separate, earlier advertisement, in which a $3,000 Balenciaga handbag sits amongst papers which include the text from a Supreme Court opinion in the Ashcroft v. Free Speech Coalition, which was a child pornography case.[58][55] Balenciaga announced that it was taking legal action in pursuit of $25 million against the production company North Six and set designer Nicholas Des Jardins, claiming that they were responsible for the advertisement with the child pornography court document. In response, the set designer's attorney said that Balenciaga representatives were present at the shoot and handled the papers and props used.[59][60] Balenciaga dropped their legal action on 2 December.[61]
In another image, featuring the actress Isabelle Huppert, two art books can be seen in the background: one is based on The Cremaster Cycle (1994–2002) by the filmmaker Matthew Barney, and one is As Sweet as It Gets (2014) by the Belgian painter Michaël Borremans. Some Twitter users tried to connect imagery from Barney's and Borremans' works to the court document, and based on this suggested there was a hidden message about child abuse in Balenciaga's marketing material.[62]
Carl W. Jones from the School of Media and Communication at the University of Westminster described the campaign as an attempt of shockvertising.[63] Balenciaga brand-ambassador Kim Kardashian, who initially said nothing in public about the scandal, started selling her Balenciaga clothing and shoes.[64]
Directors
[edit]CEOs
[edit]Creative directors
[edit]- 1919-1968: Cristóbal Balenciaga
- 1987-1992: Michel Goma
- 1992-1997: Josephus Thimister
- 1997-2012: Nicolas Ghesquière
- 2013-2015[65]: Alexander Wang
- Since 2015[29]: Demna Gvasalia
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ "Balenciaga". The American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language (5th ed.). HarperCollins.
- ^ "What is the State of Luxury's Hundred Million Dollar Licensing Deals?". The Fashion Law. May 10, 2018. Retrieved September 3, 2022.
- ^ a b c d Williams, Robert; Kansara, Vikram Alexei (November 18, 2024). "Kering Names New CEOs at Saint Laurent and Balenciaga". Business of Fashion. Retrieved December 7, 2024.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j Charleston, Beth Duncuff (October 2004). "Cristobal Balenciaga (1895-1972)". Timeline of Art History. Metropolitan Museum of Art. Archived from the original on January 27, 2007. Retrieved March 11, 2007.
- ^ "Cristóbal Balenciaga". Victoria & Albert Museum. Archived from the original on November 23, 2007. Retrieved March 11, 2007.
- ^ Rowlands, Penelope (2005). A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and Her Life In Fashion, Art, and Letters. Atria. p. 286 and elsewhere. ISBN 0743480457.
- ^ Peter, Popham (March 6, 2011). "Fashion and Fascism: A Love Story". The Independent. Archived from the original on February 25, 2021. Retrieved October 8, 2021.
- ^ "In Which Cristobal Balenciaga and Christian Dior Bring A New Dawn". This Recording. Retrieved October 29, 2022.
- ^ "5 Famous Fashion Designers Ties To The Nazis". The Fashion Spot. May 1, 2014. Archived from the original on May 9, 2014. Retrieved October 8, 2021.
- ^ Paul, Johnson (January 19, 2011). "Cut Against The Bias". This Recording. Archived from the original on January 28, 2011. Retrieved October 8, 2021.
- ^ Brown, Barbara Pascarell (2012). Pretty in pink: Jacqueline Kennedy and the politics of fashion. New York: UMI. p. 33. Retrieved October 12, 2021.
- ^ Menkes, Suzy (November 20, 2001). "Nicolas Ghesquiere, a Creative Young Spirit in the Master Class, Balenciaga: Reviving and Revering". International Herald Tribune. Archived from the original on January 29, 2007. Retrieved March 11, 2007.
- ^ Horyn, Cathy (April 9, 2002). "Is Copying Really a Part of the Creative Process?". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved April 5, 2020.
- ^ "Kidman and Urban: happy marriage or misalliance?". English pravda.ru. July 25, 2006.
- ^ "Barco – Barco MiPIX and LED displays chosen for exclusive Kylie concert". barco.com. Archived from the original on October 15, 2006.
- ^ "Celebrity Dress". Thecelebritydress.com. Retrieved March 25, 2011.
- ^ "Raquel Zimmerman in vintage Balenciaga". slide.com. Archived from the original on September 27, 2011. Retrieved March 25, 2011.
- ^ Zarrella, Katherine (October 2010). "The Hot and the Haute". Style.com. Retrieved March 25, 2011.
- ^ Zinko, Corolyne (November 1, 2010). "Tatiana Sorokko's Extending the Runway". San Francisco Chronicle. Archived from the original on November 4, 2010. Retrieved November 1, 2010.
- ^ "Look of the Day". InStyle. July 27, 2007. Archived from the original on March 11, 2012. Retrieved March 24, 2011.
- ^ a b "A Spanish Night for Balenciaga in San Francisco". Women's Wear Daily. March 25, 2011. Retrieved March 27, 2011.
- ^ "Home Page". Cristóbal Balenciaga Museoa. Retrieved April 28, 2022.
- ^ "Nicolas Ghesquière to Leave Balenciaga". The New York Times. November 5, 2012. Retrieved November 5, 2012.
- ^ a b "Balenciaga RTW Fall 2014". WWD. February 27, 2014. Retrieved February 27, 2014.
- ^ Lindsey Schickner. "Alexander Wang Will Helm Balenciaga And His Own Label". Archived from the original on September 20, 2020. Retrieved December 5, 2012.
- ^ Socha, Miles (February 4, 2014). "Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière Trial Date Set". WWD. Retrieved February 5, 2014.
- ^ "BALENCIAGA VS NICOLAS GHESQUIERE CASE TO BE SETTLED OUT OF COURT". Fashionista.com. August 27, 2014. Retrieved June 21, 2016.
- ^ "Balenciaga Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show". Vogue. October 2, 2015. Retrieved October 7, 2015.
- ^ a b Singer, Maya (October 6, 2015). "Vetements's Demna Gvasalia Is Balenciaga's New Artistic Director". Archived from the original on December 24, 2016. Retrieved October 7, 2015.
- ^ Socha, Miles (October 24, 2016). "Balenciaga Names Cédric Charbit as CEO". WWD. Retrieved November 20, 2024.
- ^ "Cédric Charbit | BoF 500 | The People Shaping the Global Fashion Industry". The Business of Fashion. November 18, 2024. Retrieved November 20, 2024.
- ^ Simpson, Tim (2023). Betting on Macau: Casino Capitalism and China's Consumer Revolution. Globalization and Community series. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press. ISBN 978-1-5179-0031-1.
- ^ Colección Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2021 April 19, 2021. Vanity Teen.
- ^ "Bieber for Balenciaga". Office Magazine. August 3, 2021. Retrieved August 9, 2021.
- ^ Yancey-Bragg, N'dea (September 13, 2021). "Fashion designer Balenciaga accused of cultural appropriation over $1,190 sweatpants". USA TODAY. Retrieved September 14, 2021.
- ^ "After Gucci, TAG Heuer, French fashion major Balenciaga will also accept crypto payments". MSN.
- ^ Conti, Samantha; Chikhoune, Ryma; Nordstrom, Leigh (May 22, 2022). "Balenciaga Takes Crypto, the Rich's Charities". Yahoo! Finance.
- ^ Hart, Jordan (October 22, 2022). "Kanye West refuses to be canceled despite Vogue and Balenciaga being the latest among these fashion companies to sever ties". Business Insider. Retrieved October 22, 2022.
- ^ "PETA Fashion Awards 2023 : Isabel Marant, SMCP et Balenciaga parmi les lauréats". Fashion United. Retrieved May 7, 2024.
- ^ "Balenciaga ouvre un nouveau flagship à Tokyo". Fashion United. Retrieved May 7, 2024.
- ^ "Balenciaga opens first store in Cancún, Mexico". Fashion Network. Retrieved June 18, 2024.
- ^ Templeton, Lily (July 31, 2023). "Balenciaga Taps Isabelle Huppert, PP Krit Amnuaydechkorn as First Brand Ambassadors". WWD.
- ^ "PP Krit & Isabelle Huppert Are Named As Balenciaga's First Brand Ambassadors".
- ^ "Balenciaga Brand Ambassadors". www.balenciaga.com.
- ^ "Balenciaga names Michelle Yeoh as new global brand ambassador". Inside Retail. November 13, 2023. Retrieved November 13, 2023.
- ^ "Nicole Kidman is the new luxury ambassador for Balenciaga". Fashion United. December 4, 2023. Retrieved December 17, 2023.
- ^ "Balenciaga Names Nicole Kidman as New Brand Ambassador". L'Officiel USA. Retrieved December 17, 2023.
- ^ "Nicole Kidman Is 'Excited' to Be Balenciaga's Newest Brand Ambassador". People. Retrieved December 17, 2023.
- ^ "Kim Kardashian Is Officially a Balenciaga Brand Ambassador". Hypebeast. January 22, 2024. Retrieved January 24, 2024.
- ^ "Kim Kardashian Is Officially a Balenciaga Ambassador". WWD. January 22, 2024. Retrieved January 24, 2024.
- ^ "Kim Kardashian 'excited' to be Balenciaga's brand ambassador". The Nation. January 24, 2024. Retrieved January 24, 2024.
- ^ "Kim Kardashian reunites with Balenciaga as new brand ambassador". USA Today. Retrieved January 24, 2024.
- ^ "Balenciaga supports Ukraine at Paris Fashion Week". The National. March 7, 2022. Retrieved March 9, 2022.
- ^ "How the fashion industry is reacting to the crisis in Ukraine". Harper's BAZAAR. March 4, 2022. Retrieved March 10, 2022.
- ^ a b c Paton, Elizabeth; Friedman, Vanessa; Testa, Jessica (December 2, 2022). "What to Know About Balenciaga's Campaign Controversy". New York Times. Retrieved December 3, 2022.
- ^ "Balenciaga Apologizes for Controversial Kid's Campaign". Paper. November 22, 2022. Retrieved November 22, 2022.
- ^ Herlihy, Brianna (November 22, 2022). "Balenciaga sparks outrage over 'depraved' ad campaign with toddlers, teddy bears in bondage". Fox News.
- ^ Kolirin, Lianne (November 23, 2022). "Balenciaga apologizes for adverts featuring children holding bondage bears". CNN. Retrieved November 24, 2022.
- ^ Kavilanz, Parija; Kolirin, Lianne; Owoseje, Toyin (November 29, 2022). "Balenciaga suing production company for $25 million over controversial campaign". CNN. Retrieved November 29, 2022.
- ^ Paúl, María Luisa (November 28, 2022). "After teddy bear backlash, Balenciaga announces lawsuit for separate ad". The Washington Post. Retrieved November 28, 2022.
- ^ "Balenciaga drops lawsuit, Demna apologises amid campaign controversy". Vogue. December 2, 2022. Retrieved December 3, 2022.
- ^ Dafoe, Taylor (November 30, 2022). "How Artists Matthew Barney and Michaël Borremans Found Themselves Swept Up in Controversy Over a Balenciaga Ad Campaign". Artnet. Retrieved December 1, 2022.
- ^ Jones, Carl W. "Balenciaga's controversial new campaign and the long history of 'shockvertising'". The Conversation. Retrieved December 7, 2022.
- ^ "Kim Kardashian sells discounted Balenciaga items after teddy bear scandal". The Independent. January 12, 2023. Retrieved January 13, 2023.
- ^ "Alexander Wang quitte la maison Balenciaga". Vogue. July 31, 2015. Retrieved November 27, 2023.
External links
[edit]- Official website
- Paris Fashion Show 2007: Balenciaga Catwalk Archived October 17, 2007, at the Wayback Machine
- The Cristobal Balenciaga Museum in Getaria, Spain
- Professor Aiko Beall of Otis College of Art and Design on Balenciaga
- Balenciaga – brand and company profile at Fashion Model Directory