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{{Short description|Hoopskirt or open framework to extend a skirt's width at the sides}}
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[[Image:MarieAntoinette_by_VigeeLeBrun.jpg|thumb|right|200px|[[Marie Antoinette]] in a court dress of 1779 worn over extremely wide panniers. Portrait by [[Marie Louise Élisabeth Vigée-Lebrun|Mme Vigée-Lebrun]].]]
{{Infobox clothing type
[[Image:Canaletto (I) 038.jpg|thumb|right|Court ladies in a view of Vienna by [[Canaletto]]'s nephew [[Bernardo Bellotto]], c. 1760 ([[Kunsthistorisches Museum]])]]
| name = Pannier
| image_file = Woman's Corset LACMA M.2007.211.353.jpg
| caption = Pannier or hoop skirt, English, 1750–80. Plain-woven linen and cane.
| type = [[Underwear|Undergarments]]
| material =
| location = Spain
| introduced = 17th century
}}


'''Panniers''' or '''side hoops''' are women's [[undergarment]]s worn in the eighteenth century to extend the width of the [[Skirt|skirts]] at the side while leaving the front and back flat. This provided a flat panel where boldly scaled woven patterns or rich embroidery could be fully appreciated.
'''Panniers''' or '''side hoops''' are women's [[undergarment]]s worn in the 17th and 18th centuries to extend the width of the [[skirt]]s at the side while leaving the front and back relatively flat. This provided a panel where woven patterns, elaborate decorations and rich embroidery could be displayed and fully appreciated.


== History ==
== History ==


The style originated in [[Spain|Spanish]] court dress of the seventeenth century, familiar in portraits by [[Diego Velázquez|Velázquez]]. The fashion spred to France and from there to the rest of Europe after circa 1718-1719, after some Spanish dresses had been displayed in Paris.
The style originated in [[Spain|Spanish]] court dress of the 17th century, familiar in portraits by [[Diego Velázquez|Velázquez]]. The fashion spread to France and from there to the rest of Europe after c. 1718–1719, when some Spanish dresses had been displayed in Paris.<ref name=broby>{{cite book|last=Broby-Johanssen|first=R.|title=Kropp och kläder. Klädedräktens historia'' (Body and clothes. The history of clothing)''|year=1994|language=Swedish}}</ref> It is also suggested that the pannier originated in Germany or England, having been around since 1710 in England, and appearing in the French court in the last years of Louis XIV’s reign.<ref>{{cite book|last=Ribeiro|first=Aileen|title=Dress in 18th Century Europe|page=42}}</ref>


The earlier form of the pannier took the shape similar to a 19th-century [[crinoline]]. They were wide and domed in circumference.<ref name=broby/> As they developed, they differed from earlier equivalents such as the [[farthingale]] of the late 16th century, by not extending equally in all directions, but being very wide at the sides, but not coming out so far to front and back. By the mid-century, the "shoulders" were rather abrupt, not gently curved.
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By mid-eighteenth century it had been developed into the ''robe à la française'', which ensured that a woman took up three times as much space as a man and always presented an imposing spectacle. At their most extreme, in the French court of [[Marie Antoinette]], panniers could extend the skirt several feet at each side. By the 1780s onward, however, panniers were normally worn only to very formal evening gowns and within court fashion.


⚫
By the mid-18th century, a woman took up three times as much space as a man and always presented an imposing spectacle. At their most extreme, panniers could extend the skirt several feet at each side. By the 1780s, panniers were normally worn only with very formal gowns and within court fashion.<ref name=broby/>
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The name comes from [[pannier]]s, a [[French language|French]] term for [[wicker]] [[baskets]] (''paniers'' in current French) slung on either side of a pack animal.

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The name comes from [[pannier]]s, a [[French language|French]] term for [[wicker]] [[baskets]] slung on either side of a pack animal.

==Gallery==
<gallery widths="200" heights="200">
File:Woman wearing skirt with panniers and sack back MET DP-1372-049 (cropped).jpg|[[Staffordshire figure]], c. 1750
File:Arthur Devis 10c.jpg|from''Triptych: Mr Peter Ducane, Mary, nee Norris, his wife & The Ducane Children, 1747''
File:Tänzerpaar Höchst 1755 Tänzerin.jpg|German porcelain ballet dancer wearing a pannier, 1755
File:Sofia Magdalenas brudklänning.jpg|The wedding dress of queen [[Sophia Magdalena of Denmark|Sophia Magdalena]] of Sweden, 1766.
File:Panier, underkjol. Sofia Magdalena - Livrustkammaren - 65242.tif|Queen Sophia Magdalena's panniers to her coronation robes, 1772.
File:Sofia Magdalenas kröningsdräkt - Livrustkammaren - 13119.tif|Coronation robes of Sophia Magdalena, 1772.
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File:MarieAntoinette by VigeeLeBrun.jpg|[[Marie Antoinette]] in a court dress of 1779 worn over extremely wide panniers.
</gallery>


==See also==
==See also==
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*[[1750–1795 in fashion]]
*[[Hoop skirt]]
*[[Hoop skirt]]
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*[[1750-1795 in fashion]]


== References ==
== References ==
{{reflist}}
* R. Broby-Johanssen (in Swedish): ''Kropp och kläder. Klädedräktens historia'' (Body and clothes. The history of clothing) (1994)


==External links==
==External links==
{{wikicommons|Category:Panniers|Pannier (clothing)}}
{{Commons category|Panniers (clothing)|Pannier}}
{{Wiktionary|pannier}}
*[http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/18sil/hd_18sil.htm Eighteenth-Century Silhouette and Support] at the Metropolitan Museum of Art
*[http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/18sil/hd_18sil.htm Eighteenth-Century Silhouette and Support] at the Metropolitan Museum of Art
*[http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/18thwomenscut.htm The Costumer's Manifesto: The Cut of Women's Clothes 1700-1800]
*[https://archive.today/20130414150747/http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/18thwomenscut.htm The Costumer's Manifesto: The Cut of Women's Clothes 1700–1800]
*[http://www.fashion-era.com/paniers.htm Paniers]
*[http://www.fashion-era.com/paniers.htm Paniers]

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[[Category:Underwear]]
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[[Category:History of clothing (Europe)]]
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[[Category:History of clothing (Western fashion)]]
[[Category:French words and phrases]]
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[[Category:French loanwords]]
<br style="clear: left"/>



{{lingerie}}
{{lingerie}}
{{Clothing}}
{{Clothing}}
{{Historical clothing}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Pannier (Clothing)}}

[[Category:17th-century fashion]]
[[fr:Paniers]]
[[Category:18th-century fashion]]
[[ja:パニエ]]
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[[Category:Undergarments]]
[[pl:Panier]]
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[[Category:History of clothing (Western fashion)]]
[[ru:Панье]]
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[[Category:Women's clothing]]
[[sv:Paniers]]
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[[Category:Spanish clothing]]

Latest revision as of 11:06, 14 June 2024

Pannier
Pannier or hoop skirt, English, 1750–80. Plain-woven linen and cane.
TypeUndergarments
Place of originSpain
Introduced17th century

Panniers or side hoops are women's undergarments worn in the 17th and 18th centuries to extend the width of the skirts at the side while leaving the front and back relatively flat. This provided a panel where woven patterns, elaborate decorations and rich embroidery could be displayed and fully appreciated.

History

[edit]

The style originated in Spanish court dress of the 17th century, familiar in portraits by Velázquez. The fashion spread to France and from there to the rest of Europe after c. 1718–1719, when some Spanish dresses had been displayed in Paris.[1] It is also suggested that the pannier originated in Germany or England, having been around since 1710 in England, and appearing in the French court in the last years of Louis XIV’s reign.[2]

The earlier form of the pannier took the shape similar to a 19th-century crinoline. They were wide and domed in circumference.[1] As they developed, they differed from earlier equivalents such as the farthingale of the late 16th century, by not extending equally in all directions, but being very wide at the sides, but not coming out so far to front and back. By the mid-century, the "shoulders" were rather abrupt, not gently curved.

By the mid-18th century, a woman took up three times as much space as a man and always presented an imposing spectacle. At their most extreme, panniers could extend the skirt several feet at each side. By the 1780s, panniers were normally worn only with very formal gowns and within court fashion.[1]

The name comes from panniers, a French term for wicker baskets slung on either side of a pack animal.

[edit]
  • Staffordshire figure, c. 1750
    Staffordshire figure, c. 1750
  • fromTriptych: Mr Peter Ducane, Mary, nee Norris, his wife & The Ducane Children, 1747
    fromTriptych: Mr Peter Ducane, Mary, nee Norris, his wife & The Ducane Children, 1747
  • German porcelain ballet dancer wearing a pannier, 1755
    German porcelain ballet dancer wearing a pannier, 1755
  • The wedding dress of queen Sophia Magdalena of Sweden, 1766.
    The wedding dress of queen Sophia Magdalena of Sweden, 1766.
  • Queen Sophia Magdalena's panniers to her coronation robes, 1772.
    Queen Sophia Magdalena's panniers to her coronation robes, 1772.
  • Coronation robes of Sophia Magdalena, 1772.
    Coronation robes of Sophia Magdalena, 1772.
  • Marie Antoinette in a court dress of 1779 worn over extremely wide panniers.
    Marie Antoinette in a court dress of 1779 worn over extremely wide panniers.

See also

[edit]

References

[edit]
  1. ^ a b c Broby-Johanssen, R. (1994). Kropp och kläder. Klädedräktens historia (Body and clothes. The history of clothing) (in Swedish).
  2. ^ Ribeiro, Aileen. Dress in 18th Century Europe. p. 42.
[edit]
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Pannier.
Look up pannier in Wiktionary, the free dictionary.
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