John Galliano: Difference between revisions
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{{Short description|British fashion designer (born 1960)}} |
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{{Infobox Fashion Designer |
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{{Use British English|date=October 2022}} |
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|image= |
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{{Use dmy dates|date=October 2022}} |
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|name= John Galliano |
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{{Infobox fashion designer |
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|birth_name =Juan Carlos Antonio Galliano Guillén |
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| name = John Galliano |
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|birth_date= {{Birth date and age|1960|11|28}} |
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| honorific_suffix = {{post-nominals|country=GBR|size=100%|commas=on|CBE|RDI}} |
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|birth_place= [[Gibraltar]] |
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| image = John Galliano for Vogue, 2024.jpg |
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|death_date= |
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| caption = Galliano in 2024 |
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|death_place= |
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| birth_name = Juan Carlos Antonio Galliano-Guillén<ref name="bio"/> |
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|education= [[Central Saint Martins]] |
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| birth_date = {{birth date and age|df=yes|1960|11|28}} |
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|label_name= John Galliano, Galliano<br> |
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| birth_place = Gibraltar |
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|significant_design= |
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| nationality = British and Spanish |
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|awards= ''[[British Fashion Awards|British Fashion Designer of the Year]] for 1987, 1994, 1995 and 1997.'' Dress of the Year [[Fashion Museum, Bath]] for 1988. |
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| death_date = |
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| death_place = |
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| education = [[Central Saint Martins]] |
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| label_name = {{ubl|[[Givenchy]]<br>(1995–1997)|[[Dior]]<br>(1997–2011)|[[Maison Margiela]]<br>(2014–present)}} |
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| awards = [[British Fashion Awards|British Fashion Designer of the Year]] for 1987, '94, '95 and '97<br />Dress of the Year [[Fashion Museum, Bath]] for 1987<br />[[Order of the British Empire]] (2001)<br />[[French Legion of Honour]] {{nowrap|(2009; revoked 2012)}} |
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| partner = Alexis Roche |
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}} |
}} |
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'''Juan Carlos Antonio Galliano''', [[Order of the British Empire|CBE]], [[Royal Designers for Industry|RDI]] (born 28 November 1960), professionally known as '''John Galliano''', is a British [[fashion designer]] who was head designer of [[Christian Dior S.A.|Christian Dior]] from 1997 to 1 March 2011, when he was dismissed after a video showing him making [[antisemitism|antisemitic]] remarks appeared. |
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'''John Charles Galliano''',<ref>David James Smith, "The Secret Torments of Galliano", ''Sunday Times Magazine'', 22 August 2011, p. 20, at p. 27: "I ordered his birth certificate from the Gibraltar registry and in fact he was named John Charles Galliano".</ref> {{post-nominals|country=GBR|size=100%|commas=on|CBE|RDI}} (born 28 November 1960), is a British [[fashion designer]]. He was the [[creative director]] of his eponymous label John Galliano and French fashion houses [[Givenchy]] and [[Dior]].<ref>{{cite news|last=White|first=Belinda|title=John Galliano sacked from his eponymous label|url=http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/Article.aspx?Id=TMG8453040|work=The Telegraph|access-date=15 May 2012|date=15 April 2011|location=London|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120611001202/http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/Article.aspx?Id=TMG8453040|archive-date=11 June 2012}}</ref> From 2014 to 2024, Galliano was the creative director of Paris-based fashion house [[Maison Margiela]].<ref>{{cite news|last=Socha|first=Miles|title=John Galliano Joins Maison Martin Margiela|url=http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/john-galliano-joins-maison-martin-margiela-7968581?src=twitter|publisher=Women's Wear Daily|access-date=6 October 2014|date=6 October 2014|location=New York}}</ref> Galliano has been named [[British Designer of the Year]] four times. In a 2004 poll for the [[BBC]], he was named the fifth most influential person in [[British culture]].<ref>{{cite news|title=iPod designer voted UK's most influential cultural icon|url=https://www.theregister.co.uk/2004/02/12/ipod_designer_voted_uks_most/|agency=The Register|date=17 November 2016}}</ref><ref>{{cite news|title=iPod designer leads culture list|url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/entertainment/3481599.stm|agency=BBC|date=17 November 2016}}</ref> |
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==Early life and career== |
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Born in [[Gibraltar]] to a British father and an [[Andalusian people|Andalusian]] mother, <ref>[http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2011/feb/28/galliano-future-dior-doubtful-hitler Galliano's future at Dior in doubt as footage shows him saying 'I love Hitler']Kim Willsher, guardian.co.uk, Monday 28 February 2011 20.37 GMT </ref> Galliano moved to [[Streatham]] in southwest [[London]] at six<ref>"John Galliano" by Colin McDowell, page 74 - ISBN 0-297-81938-0</ref> and later to [[Brockley]],<ref>Interview with JOHN GALLIANO by Paula Reed, Grazia Magazine, London 21 September 2010</ref> and attended St. Anthony's RC School and [[Wilson's Grammar School]] in London. He attended [[Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design]], from which he graduated in 1984 with a first class honours degree in [[fashion design]]. His first collection, inspired by the [[French Revolution]] and entitled ''Les Incroyables'', received positive reviews and was bought in its entirety by and sold in the London fashion boutique [[Browns (Fashion Boutique)|Browns]]. Galliano began his own label and met future collaborators [[Amanda Harlech]], at that time stylist with [[Harpers and Queen]], and [[Stephen Jones (milliner)|Stephen Jones]], a milliner. |
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==Early life and education == |
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Initially, financial backing came from Johan Brun, and when this agreement came to an end, Danish entrepreneur Peder Bertelsen, owner of firm Aguecheek, who were also backing [[Katherine Hamnett]] at the time, took over. This agreement ended in 1988 and Galliano sought the backing of German agent Faycal Amor (owner and designer of fashion label Plein Sud) who directed him to set up his base in Paris. Galliano relocated to Paris in search of financial backing and a strong client base. His first show was in 1989 as part of [[Paris Fashion Week]]. |
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Galliano was born in [[Gibraltar]] to a Gibraltarian father of Italian descent, Juan Galliano, and a Spanish mother, Ana Guillén, and has two sisters.<ref name="bio">{{cite news |last=Specter |first=Michael |date=30 Nov 2003 |title=The extraordinary world of John Galliano (part two) |url=https://www.theguardian.com/theobserver/2003/nov/30/features.magazine67 |url-status=live |work=[[The Guardian]] |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220901235130/https://www.theguardian.com/theobserver/2003/nov/30/features.magazine67 |archive-date=1 September 2022 |access-date=1 September 2022}}</ref> His father worked as a plumber.<ref name="bio2">{{cite news |author=BBC news staff |date=1 March 2011 |title=Profile: John Galliano |url=https://www.bbc.com/news/entertainment-arts-12580028 |work=[[BBC News]] |access-date=1 September 2022}}</ref> His family moved to [[England]] when Galliano was six, settling in [[Streatham]] and later [[Dulwich]] and [[Brockley]], in [[South London]].<ref name="bio2"/><ref name="bio3">{{cite news |last=Gibbons |first=Katie |date=2 March 2011 |title=ELL profiles the world's most hated fashion man |url=https://www.eastlondonlines.co.uk/2011/03/john-galliano-ell-profiles-the-worlds-most-hated-fashion-man/ |work=Eastlondonlines |access-date=1 September 2022}}</ref><ref>"John Galliano" by Colin McDowell, page 74 – {{ISBN|0-297-81938-0}}</ref> He was raised in a strict [[Catholic]] family.<ref>{{Cite news |title=John Galliano and Alexander McQueen: designers' lives seedily needled |url=https://www.irishtimes.com/culture/books/john-galliano-and-alexander-mcqueen-designers-lives-seedily-needled-1.2111185 |newspaper=The Irish Times|first=Deirdre|last=McQuillan|date=22 February 2015|access-date=14 January 2023}}</ref> |
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Galliano attended St. Anthony's Primary School, Dulwich and [[Wilson's Grammar School]] in London.<ref name="bio4">{{cite web |url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/john-galliano |title=John Galliano Profile |author=<!--Not stated--> |date= |website=Businessoffashion.com |publisher=The Business of Fashion |access-date=1 September 2022}}</ref> He went on to study at [[Central Saint Martins]] and graduated in 1984 with a first class honours degree in Fashion Design.<ref name="bio3"/> His graduating collection was inspired by the [[French Revolution]] and entitled ''Les Incroyables''.<ref name="bio3"/> The collection received positive reviews and was bought in its entirety for resale in the London fashion boutique [[Browns (fashion boutique)|Browns]].<ref name="bio3"/> Galliano was appointed head designer of Givenchy in 1995, thus becoming the first British designer to head a French haute couture house. |
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Media fashion celebrity [[Susannah Constantine]] has worked for Galliano in the past,<ref>''[http://observer.guardian.co.uk/comment/story/0,6903,864290,00.html Just a couple of swells]'' — observer.guardian.co.uk</ref> and he has also aided the future success of other designers including shoe designer [[Patrick Cox]]. |
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==Career== |
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In 1991, he collaborated with [[Kylie Minogue]], designing the costumes for her [[Let's Get to It Tour]]. |
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[[File:John Galliano ensemble. Dress of the Year, 1987.jpg|thumb|120px|John Galliano ensemble; [[Dress of the Year]] for 1987]] |
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===Early career and the John Galliano label=== |
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==Paris== |
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====London==== |
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In 1993, Galliano's financial agreement with Amor ended and he did not show in October, missing the season. With the help of American ''[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]'' editor-in-chief [[Anna Wintour]] and [[Andre Leon Talley]], then European Correspondent at ''[[Vanity Fair (magazine)|Vanity Fair]]'', Galliano was introduced to Portuguese socialite and fashion patron Sao Schlumberger and financial backers of venture firm Arbela Inc, John Bult and Mark Rice. It was through this partnership that Galliano received the financial backing and high society stamp needed to give him credibility in Paris. This collection was important in the development of John Galliano as a fashion house, and is regarded as a 'fashion moment' in high fashion circles. High profile models at this show included [[Kate Moss]], [[Helena Christensen]], [[Naomi Campbell]] and [[Linda Evangelista]], all of whom were rumoured to have waived their usual couture appearance fees. Financial backing and the use of Schlumberger's unoccupied Parisian mansion as a temporary HQ and theatrical setting for the show allowed Galliano to produce 17 black outfits with a fifteen day deadline. High profile clients in attendance at the presentation included [[Madonna (entertainer)|Madonna]] and Beatrice Rothschild. Fashion critics noted that his work moved away from traditional forms of [[pret-a-porter]], becoming much more like that associated with [[haute couture]] and attracting a younger, more fashion aware customer than that of long established French fashion houses. Couture garments traditionally feature the finest quality materials, workmanship and techniques. Galliano used these techniques on a smaller scale and relaunched himself and his fashion house on the Parisian and worldwide fashion scene. |
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Galliano then started his own eponymous label alongside long-term collaborators [[Amanda Harlech]], at that time stylist with ''[[Harpers and Queen]]'', and milliner [[Stephen Jones (milliner)|Stephen Jones]].<ref>{{cite news| url=https://www.theguardian.com/theobserver/2007/aug/19/features.magazine67 | location=London | work=The Guardian | first=Lynn | last=Barber | title=My brilliant career | date=18 August 2007}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |author=Amy Odell |url=http://nymag.com/thecut/2009/02/john_galliano_reminisces_about.html |title=John Galliano Reminisces About His Eighties Club Days - The Cut |publisher=Nymag.com |access-date=27 September 2015 |archive-date=28 September 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150928124318/http://nymag.com/thecut/2009/02/john_galliano_reminisces_about.html |url-status=dead }}</ref><ref>[https://www.questia.com/library/1P2-1882927/fashion-the-hat-trick-in-10-years-of-collaboration] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140329172717/http://www.questia.com/library/1P2-1882927/fashion-the-hat-trick-in-10-years-of-collaboration|date=29 March 2014}}</ref> On the back of this success, Galliano rented studio space in London. Initially, financial backing came from Johan Brun, and when this agreement came to an end, Danish entrepreneur [[Ole Peder Bertelsen]], owner of firm Aguecheek, who were also backing [[Katharine Hamnett]] at the time, took over. This agreement ended in 1988 and he went bankrupt after his own London-based label failed.{{fact|date=March 2024}} |
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====Paris==== |
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In July 1995, he was appointed as the designer of [[Givenchy]] by [[Bernard Arnault]], owner of luxury goods conglomerate [[LVMH]], thus becoming the first British designer to head a French haute couture house. On 21 January 1996, Galliano presented his first couture show at the helm of Givenchy at the Stade Francais. The collection received high praise within the fashion media. Less than two years later, on October 14, 1996, LVMH moved Galliano to [[Christian Dior]], replacing Italian designer [[Gianfranco Ferré]].<ref>"John Galliano" by Colin McDowell, page 15 - ISBN 0-297-81938-0</ref> His first couture show for Dior coincided with the label's 50th anniversary, on January 20, 1997. |
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In 1989, Galliano moved to Paris in search of financial backing and a strong client base. Galliano secured the backing of Paris-based Moroccan designer Faycal Amor (owner and creative director of fashion label Plein Sud) who invited him to set up his base in Paris at the Plein Sud headquarters. His first show was in 1989 as part of [[Paris Fashion Week]].{{fact|date=March 2024}} |
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Media fashion celebrity [[Susannah Constantine]] has worked for Galliano,<ref>{{cite news|url=http://observer.guardian.co.uk/comment/story/0,6903,864290,00.html |title=Just a couple of swells |work= The Guardian|date=11 February 2011|access-date=13 June 2013|location=London}}</ref> and he has also aided the future success of other designers including shoe designer [[Patrick Cox]]. In 1991, he collaborated with [[Kylie Minogue]], designing the costumes for her [[Let's Get to It Tour]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.vogue.com.au/celebrity/designers/john+galliano,125?display=bio |title=John Galliano - Vogue Australia |website=www.vogue.com.au |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170510135849/http://www.vogue.com.au/celebrity/designers/john+galliano,125?display=bio |archive-date=2017-05-10}}</ref> |
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==Inspirations== |
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He has been quoted as identifying his love of theatre and [[femininity]] as central to his creations: "my role is to seduce", he has said, and has gone so far as recreating some of Dior's period clothing for Madonna in the film [[Evita (film)|Evita]]. Galliano has reputedly cited [[Charlize Theron]] as a [[muse]] and has been creating couture dresses for her to wear to formal red carpet events such as the [[Academy Awards]] and the [[Golden Globe Awards]]. She is also part of the ad campaign for Dior's "J'Adore" perfume, while [[Riley Keough]], granddaughter of [[Elvis Presley]], fronts his "Miss Dior Cherie" perfume, and [[Kate Moss]], in photographs by [[Nick Knight (photographer)|Nick Knight]], his ready-to-wear campaigns as well as modelling in both couture and ready-to-wear shows. His couture shows have featured other elite couture models of the last two decades - [[Erin O'Connor]], [[Alek Wek]], [[Linda Evangelista]], and [[Karen Mulder]]. Hollywood film stars [[Cate Blanchett]] and [[Nicole Kidman]] have frequently worn dresses created by him to the [[Academy Awards]]. Galliano's Private clientele for his couture collections has include [[Daphne Guinness]] and the late [[Diana, Princess of Wales]]. |
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Currently, between his own label and Dior, Galliano produces six couture and ready-to-wear collections a year and a new mid-season range under his own name "G Galliano". |
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In 1993, Galliano's financial agreement with Amor ended and he did not have a showing in October, missing the season. With the help of American ''[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]'' editor-in-chief [[Anna Wintour]] and [[André Leon Talley]], then European correspondent at ''[[Vanity Fair (magazine)|Vanity Fair]]'', Galliano was introduced to Portuguese socialite and fashion patron [[São Schlumberger]] and financial backers of venture firm Arbela Inc, John {{not a typo|Bult}} and Mark Rice. It was through this partnership that Galliano received the financial backing and high society stamp needed to give him credibility in Paris. This collection was important in the development of Galliano as a fashion house, and is regarded as a 'fashion moment' in high fashion circles.<ref>Chris Rovzar, [http://www.vanityfair.com/style/2013/06/john-galliano-greatest-moments-photos_slideshow_item3_4 Galliano Ascending] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140904173242/http://www.vanityfair.com/style/2013/06/john-galliano-greatest-moments-photos_slideshow_item3_4 |date=4 September 2014 }}, ''Vanity Fair'', 5 June 2013</ref><ref>[http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/John_Galliano John Galliano] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130903105116/http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/John_Galliano |date=3 September 2013 }}, ''Vogue''</ref> |
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Similarities between Galliano and the fictional amoral fashion designer [[Zoolander#The character Mugatu|Mugatu]], with his "Derelicte" homeless fashion show, from the movie [[Zoolander]] have been pointed out by some commentators.<ref>''[http://www.thisislondon.co.uk/film/article-554533-details/Zoolander+Ben+has+last+laugh/article.do Zoolander Ben Has Last Laugh]'' — thisislondon.co.uk</ref> |
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===Givenchy=== |
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==Dismissal from Dior== |
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In July 1995, he was appointed as the designer of [[Givenchy]] by [[Bernard Arnault]], owner of luxury goods conglomerate [[LVMH]]. On 21 January 1996, Galliano presented his first couture show at the helm of Givenchy at the Stade de France. The collection received high praise within the fashion media.{{citation needed|date=May 2012}} Some of Galliano's designs for Givenchy were licensed to Vogue Patterns.<ref>PatternVault blog, 1 August 2011 [http://blog.pattern-vault.com/2011/08/01/john-galliano-for-givenchy-vogue-patterns/ John Galliano for Givenchy: Vogue Patterns]</ref> He was then moved to Dior by LVMH, and succeeded at Givenchy by [[Alexander McQueen]]. |
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On 25 February 2011, [[Christian Dior S.A.|Dior]] announced that it had suspended Galliano following his arrest over an alleged anti-semitic assault in a Paris bar. <ref>http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG8347082/John-Galliano-suspended-by-Dior-following-arrest-over-anti-semitic-rant.html</ref> Three days later, British [[tabloid]] newspaper ''[[The Sun (United Kingdom)|The Sun]]'' posted a video on their website showing Galliano in another incident at the same bar, hurling anti-semitic insults at a group of Italian women and declaring "I love Hitler... People like you would be dead. Your mothers, your forefathers would all be f...ing gassed."<ref>{{cite news|title=Film of John Galliano's racist rant in bar|url=http://www.thesun.co.uk/sol/homepage/news/3436757/Film-of-John-Gallianos-racist-rant-in-bar.html|The Sun]]|date=28 February 2011}}</ref> This incident happened just before Paris Fashion Week for Autumn/Winter 2011/2012. It remains unconfirmed whether or not the collections for Dior and his own label will debut. |
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===Dior=== |
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[[Natalie Portman]], a [[Judaism|Jewish]] actress whose great-grandparents were killed in [[Auschwitz]], had an endorsement contract with Dior for its Miss Dior Cherie fragrance. In a statement, she expressed "disgust" at John Galliano's anti-semitic comments<ref>http://www.foxnews.com/entertainment/2011/03/01/oscar-winner-natalie-portman-disgusted-john-gallianos-anti-semitic-comments/?test=faces</ref>. Portman said: “I am deeply shocked and disgusted by the video of John Galliano’s comments that surfaced today...I hope at the very least, these terrible comments remind us to reflect and act upon combating these still-existing prejudices that are the opposite of all that is beautiful.” <ref>http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/02/28/natalie-portman-condemns-galliano/</ref> |
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{{See also|Spring 2004 Dior couture collection}} |
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[[File:Christian Dior (Moscow exhibition, 2011) 18.jpg|300px|thumb|Galliano ballgowns designed for [[Dior]] as exhibited in [[Moscow]], 2011]] |
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[[File:Galliano dior newspaper dress ROM.jpg|thumb|Galliano Dior newspaper dress at the Royal Ontario Museum donated by Kara Alloway, purchased by the Toronto “Real Housewife” at the Dior flagship in Paris.]] |
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In October 1996, LVMH moved Galliano to [[Dior|Christian Dior]], replacing Italian designer [[Gianfranco Ferré]].<ref>"John Galliano" by Colin McDowell, page 15; {{ISBN|0-297-81938-0}}</ref> At Dior, Galliano received widespread critical acclaim for his Haute Couture and ready-to-wear collections, for the whole duration of his tenure there.{{fact|date=March 2024}} |
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Galliano designed the [[Chartreuse Dior dress of Nicole Kidman|chinoiserie chartreuse gown]] worn by [[Nicole Kidman]] at the [[69th Academy Awards]] in 1997.<ref>{{cite magazine|last=Cusumano|first=Katherine|date=23 May 2017|title=Don't Call It a Comeback: Nicole Kidman Has a Long History of Wearing Daring Dresses on the Red Carpet|url=https://www.wmagazine.com/story/nicole-kidman-daring-fashion-red-carpet/|magazine=[[W (magazine)|W]]|access-date=7 December 2020}}</ref> |
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On 1 March 2011, Dior announced that it had begun procedures of dismissal for Galliano, with Dior's chief executive Sidney Toledano stating "I very firmly condemn what was said by John Galliano". The "maison" has taken steps to dismiss the operator after a video of a second incident emerged on the internet showing Galliano, visibly drunk, declaring "I love Hitler". <ref>http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-12611891</ref> After the incident Galliano's popular personal website was jammed and made unavailable for visitors. <ref>http://www.johngalliano.com/ </ref> |
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In 2007, Steven Robinson died<ref>{{Cite web |last=Vogue |date=2007-04-10 |title=STEVEN ROBINSON REMEMBERED |url=https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/steven-robinson-remembered |access-date=2024-12-28 |website=British Vogue |language=en-GB}}</ref>,it was maintained that he had a heart attack, but later was revealed to be a drug overdose. <ref>{{Cite web |last=Odell |first=Amy |date=2011-08-22 |title=The Death of John Galliano’s Close Friend and Dior Colleague Revealed Years Later to Be Caused by a Drug Overdose |url=https://www.thecut.com/2011/08/the_death_of_john_gallianos_cl.html |access-date=2024-12-28 |website=The Cut |language=en}}</ref> At the time Robinson had been Galliano's supporter and worked closely with him over 20 years, providing creative input, but also organising many of the events.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Horyn |first=Cathy |date=2007-04-09 |title=Key Man: Steven Robinson |url=https://archive.nytimes.com/runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2007/04/09/key-man-steven-robinson/ |access-date=2024-12-28 |website=On the Runway Blog |language=en}}</ref> <ref>{{Cite news |last=Menkes |first=Suzy |title=Obituary: Steven Robinson, Dior designer |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2007/04/05/world/europe/05iht-obits.1.5159381.html |archive-url=http://web.archive.org/web/20161010075255/http://www.nytimes.com:80/2007/04/05/world/europe/05iht-obits.1.5159381.html |archive-date=2016-10-10 |access-date=2024-12-28 |language=en}}</ref>According to the documentary "High and Low", Galliano stated it affected him heavily.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Macdonald |first=Kevin |date=2023 |title=High and Low - John Galliano |url=}}</ref> |
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Galliano has denied the allegations through his attorney.<ref>http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-12611891</ref> |
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In 2010, Galliano identified his love of theatre and [[femininity]] as central to his creations; he said "my role is to seduce", and credited [[Standard Oil]] heiress [[Millicent Rogers]] as an influence.<ref name="rogers">{{cite web|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2010/01/28/fashion/28COUTURE.html|title=In Paris, Tempted by History|work=[[The New York Times]]|first=Cathy|last=Horyn|date=27 January 2010|access-date=15 January 2023}}</ref> |
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==Honours== |
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Galliano was awarded [[British Designer of the Year]] in 1987, 1994 and 1995. In 1997, he shared the award with [[Alexander McQueen]], his successor at [[Givenchy]]. |
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====Antisemitic incident and firing==== |
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He was awarded the [[CBE]] (Commander of the Order of the British Empire) in the 2001 [[Queen's Birthday Honours]] List<ref>[http://www.london-gazette.co.uk/issues/56237/supplements/24] London Gazette, Saturday 16 June 2001, Supplement No. 1, (Queen's Birthday Honours) Name shown as John Charles Galliano</ref> for his services to the Fashion Industry as a Fashion Designer. He received his [[CBE]] on November 27, 2001 at [[Buckingham Palace]] in [[London]], [[England]]. |
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{{See also|John Galliano#Controversies}} |
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In December 2010, a drunken Galliano insulted a group of Italian women in Paris with [[antisemitic]] slurs, which was caught on camera. The video resurfaced in February 2011, just before Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2011/2012. Facing public and legal scrutiny, he was fired from his role as creative director at Dior.<ref name="DiorFiring">{{cite news |last=Horyn |first=Cathy |date=1 March 2011 |title=John Galliano Fired by Dior After Video Rant |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2011/03/02/fashion/02galliano-dior.html |work=[[The New York Times]] |access-date=1 September 2022}}</ref> |
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===Oscar de la Renta=== |
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He was awarded the [[Royal Designer for Industry|RDI]] in 2002 for his contribution to the fashion industry. |
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In 2013, a [[The Guardian|''Guardian'']] article describing Galliano's incident claims "fashion forgave John Galliano" due to his "two years' exile" and "several statements expressing his sorrow and self-disgust."{{cn|date=October 2022}} |
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In early 2013, Galliano accepted an invitation from [[Oscar de la Renta]], brokered by [[Anna Wintour]], for a temporary residency at de la Renta's design studio to help prepare for a showing of his Fall 2013 ready-to-wear collection during February [[New York Fashion Week]].<ref>[https://style.time.com/2013/01/25/is-john-galliano-staging-a-successful-comeback/ "Is John Galliano Staging A Successful Comeback?"], by Terri Pous, ''[[Time (magazine)|Time]]'', 25 January 2013.</ref> Galliano also received a measure of absolution from the [[Anti-Defamation League]], which lauded his efforts to atone for his misdeeds and wished him well.<ref>[http://www.adl.org/press-center/press-releases/miscellaneous/adl-welcomes-recovery-and.html "ADL Welcomes Recovery and Redemption of Fashion Designer John Galliano"], ADL Press Release, 18 January 2013.</ref> The ADL again came to his defence after the ''[[New York Post]]'' ran a photo of him on his way to the de la Renta show dressed in what it claimed was [[Hasidic]]-like garb.<ref>[http://www.nypost.com/p/news/local/oy_he_did_it_again_5stJIvOqFBmBMtK8pMUpRL "Jew-bash designer Galliano's costume mocks faithful"] by [[Doree Lewak]], David Seifman and Jeane MacIntosh, ''New York Post'', 13 February 2013.</ref><ref>[http://www.adl.org/press-center/press-releases/miscellaneous/adl-new-york-post-story-on-galliano-distortion.html "ADL: New York Post Story on John Galliano ‘A Complete Distortion’"], ADL Press Release, 13 February 2013.</ref> |
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He has appeared on ''[[The Independent on Sunday]]'s'' 2007 "pink list" for being one of "the most influential gay people in Britain."<ref>{{cite news|title=Home > News > UK > This Britain The pink list 2007: The IoS annual celebration of the great and the gay|url=http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/this-britain/the-pink-list-2007-the-iiosi-annual-celebration-of-the-great-and-the-gay-447627.html|accessdate=30 January 2011|newspaper=[[The Independent{{!}}The Independent on Sunday]]|date=6 May 2007}}</ref> |
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Galliano remained backstage at the show, which received favourable reviews<ref>[http://www.vogue.com/fashion-week/fall-2013-rtw/oscar-de-la-renta/review/ "Oscar de la Renta / Fall 2013 RTW"] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130309230808/http://www.vogue.com/fashion-week/fall-2013-rtw/oscar-de-la-renta/review/ |date= 9 March 2013 }} by Mark Holgate, ''Vogue'', 12 February 2013.</ref><ref>[http://www.wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2013/review/oscar-de-la-renta "Oscar de la Renta RTW Fall 2013"], ''Women's Wear Daily'', 12 February 2013.</ref> amid speculation about his future, including as a possible successor to Oscar de la Renta<ref>[https://www.nytimes.com/2013/02/14/fashion/gallianos-presence-at-de-la-renta-may-be-a-first-step-in-his-return.html?_r=0 "A Tentative Step by a Fallen Star to Come Back"] by Eric Wilson, ''The New York Times'', 13 February 2013.</ref> and that Galliano might take up a teaching post at [[Parsons The New School for Design]].<ref>[http://nymag.com/thecut/2013/03/parsons-dean-of-fashion-loves-john-galliano.html "Parsons Dean of Fashion ‘''Loves'' John Galliano’"] by Hilary Moss, ''The Cut, New York Magazine'', 20 March 2013.</ref> On 12 June 2013, Galliano's first filmed interview since his dismissal from Christian Dior was broadcast on United States television. He closed this conversation by stating, "I am able to create. I am ready to create... [and] I hope through my atonement I'll be given a second chance".<ref>{{cite web|title=John Galliano|url=http://www.charlierose.com/view/interview/12975|work=Charlie Rose|access-date=13 June 2013|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130618000146/http://www.charlierose.com/view/interview/12975|archive-date=18 June 2013}}</ref> |
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On 1 January, 2009, it was announced that Galliano was admitted to the [[French Legion of Honour]] with the rank of Chevalier.<ref>[http://www.chronicle.gi/readarticle.php?id=000015114&title=The%20Gibraltar%20Chronicle The Gibraltar Chronicle - Galliano in French Legion of Honour (9-1-2009)]</ref> |
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== |
===Maison Margiela=== |
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On 6 October 2014, the [[OTB Group]] announced that John Galliano had joined [[Maison Margiela]] to take the responsibility of the creative direction of the house,<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.otb.net/library/press/press_release/announcement.pdf |title=OTB Announcement |publisher=Otb.net |access-date=27 September 2015 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141018103551/https://www.otb.net/library/press/press_release/announcement.pdf |archive-date=18 October 2014}}</ref> marking the designer's return to a leading role in designing luxury fashion. Just a few weeks later, on the occasion of the annual [[British Fashion Awards]], Galliano presented the Outstanding Achievement Award to [[Anna Wintour]] who wore Galliano's first creation for Maison Martin Margiela, "an unambiguous fashion blessing" from the Editor in Chief of American ''[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]'' according to [[Vanessa Friedman]], Fashion Director of ''[[The New York Times]]''.<ref>{{cite news|url=http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2014/12/02/anna-wintour-wears-john-galliano-for-margiela-at-the-british-fashion-awards/?_r=0|title=Anna Wintour Wears Margiela by John Galliano: The Message and the Dress|newspaper=[[The New York Times]]|first=Vanessa|last=Friedman|date=2 December 2014 |access-date=27 September 2015}}</ref> |
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* [[John Galliano's Spring-Summer 2004 Haute Couture collection]] |
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Galliano exhibited his first couture collection for Margiela during London Collections: Men, on 12 January 2015. He told French ''Elle'' in 2018 that he would stop using fur in his collections, citing as inspiration from a meeting with [[Penélope Cruz]] and [[PETA]]'s [[Dan Mathews]].<ref>Florence Besson,"Un Duo Anti-Fourrure," ''[https://www.peta.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/ELLE_France_John_Galliano_Dan_Mathews_Interview.pdf Elle]'', 30 March 2018, see also Marrisa G Muller, "Maison Margiela’s John Galliano Going Fur Free Too" ''[https://www.wmagazine.com/story/john-galliano-fur-free W]'', 4 April 2018.</ref> |
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==References== |
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{{reflist}} |
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On 26 September 2018, Galliano made a statement in Paris at his Maison Margiela show, when he unveiled Mutiny, his first perfume for the fashion house.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/john-galliano-maison-margiela-fragrance-mutiny|title=John Galliano Hails Gen Z As Maison Margiela Launches New Fragrance Mutiny|date=26 September 2018|publisher=Vogue|access-date=26 September 2018}}</ref><ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/meet-maison-margielas-new-fragrance-mutiny|title=Meet Maison Margiela's New Fragrance Mutiny|newspaper=British Vogue |date=26 September 2018|publisher=Vogue|access-date=26 September 2018}}</ref> |
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==External links== |
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* [http://www.johngalliano.com Official Label's website] |
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*{{fashiondesigner|id=john-galliano}} |
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* [http://www.iqons.com/John+Galliano John Galliano - IQONS Portrait] |
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* [http://www.designmuseum.org/designinbritain/john-galliano British Design Museum] |
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* {{cite web |publisher= [[Victoria and Albert Museum]] |
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|url= http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1486_couture/explore.php |
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|title= Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies}} |
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The designer left Maison Margiela in December 2024.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2024-12-12 |title=John Galliano exits Maison Margiela. Where will he go next? |url=https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/john-galliano-maison-margiela-exit-chanel-b2662825.html |access-date=2024-12-28 |website=The Independent |language=en}}</ref> |
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{{Grands couturiers}} |
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==Controversies== |
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{{Persondata |
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===Antisemitic outburst=== |
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|NAME= Galliano, John |
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Circa December 2010, a drunken Galliano insulted a group of Jewish women in Paris bar La Perle,<ref name=":0"/> saying: "I love [[Hitler]]... People like you would be dead. Your mothers, your forefathers would all be fucking gassed".<ref>{{Cite magazine |date=2011-03-01 |title=John Galliano's Words |url=http://www.newyorker.com/news/news-desk/john-gallianos-words |access-date=2022-06-13 |magazine=The New Yorker|first=Judith|last=Thurman |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Wang |first=Connie |title=Video Of John Galliano's Racist Rantings |url=https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/john-galliano-s-racist-rant-was-caught-on-video-declares-i-love-hitler |access-date=2022-06-13 |website=www.refinery29.com |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Covit |first=Dana |title=John Galliano Antisemitic Slurs - Galliano Suspended From Dior |url=https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/john-galliano-dior-anti-semitic-arrest-1 |access-date=2022-06-13 |website=www.refinery29.com |language=en}}</ref> The video resurfaced in February 2011, just before [[Paris Fashion Week]] Autumn/Winter 2011/2012. |
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|ALTERNATIVE NAMES= |
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|SHORT DESCRIPTION= Fashion Designer |
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On 25 February 2011, [[Dior]] announced their suspension of Galliano<ref>{{cite news|url=http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG8347082/John-Galliano-suspended-by-Dior-following-arrest-over-antisemitic-rant.html|location=London|work=The Daily Telegraph|title=John Galliano suspended by Dior following arrest over 'anti-semitic rant'|date=25 February 2011|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110301180036/http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG8347082/John-Galliano-suspended-by-Dior-following-arrest-over-anti-semitic-rant.html|archive-date=1 March 2011}}</ref> including the following statement:<blockquote>Because of the particularly odious character of the behaviour and comments made by John Galliano in a video made public on Monday, the Dior house decided to suspend him immediately and has engaged in a process to dismiss him.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web |title=John Galliano sacked by Christian Dior over alleged antisemitic rant [France] |url=https://www.business-humanrights.org/fr/derni%C3%A8res-actualit%C3%A9s/john-galliano-sacked-by-christian-dior-over-alleged-antisemitic-rant-france/ |access-date=2022-06-13 |website=Business & Human Rights Resource Centre |language=fr}}</ref></blockquote>The show-business industry expressed mixed feelings towards the designer's antisemitic speech.<ref>Belinda White, [http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/tmg8354428/Dior-ambassador-Natalie-Portman-speaks-out-on-Galliano.html Dior ambassador Natalie Portman speaks out on Galliano] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130615020540/http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG8354428/Dior-ambassador-Natalie-Portman-speaks-out-on-Galliano.html |date=15 June 2013 }}, ''Telegraph'', 1 March 2011</ref><ref>Lauren Milligan, [http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2011/06/06/eva-green-on-john-galliano My Friend John], ''Vogue'', 6 June 2011.</ref> [[Natalie Portman]], who had an endorsement contract with Dior, said she was "deeply shocked" by Galliano's comments and that "these still-existing prejudices... are the opposite of all that is beautiful"<ref>{{cite news |last=Horyn |first=Cathy |date=28 February 2011 |title=Natalie Portman Condemns Galliano |work=The New York Times |url=http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/02/28/natalie-portman-condemns-galliano}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |date=1 March 2011 |title=Natalie Portman, Dior Directors Slam John Galliano's Antisemitic Comments |publisher=Fox News |url=https://www.foxnews.com/entertainment/natalie-portman-dior-directors-slam-john-gallianos-anti-semitic-comments}}</ref> and "As an individual who is proud to be Jewish, [she] will not be associated with Mr. Galliano in any way".<ref name=":0" /> However, another model for Dior, French model and actress [[Eva Green]], said of the incident: "Sometimes, you can make mistakes. I don't think he's antisemitic. I'm Jewish. I don't think he has anything against the Jews. I think it's more that he was probably a bit drunk".<ref>[https://www.theguardian.com/film/2011/jun/05/eva-green-interview-playing-evil Eva Green interview: "Playing evil"] by Elizabeth Day, ''[[The Observer]]'', 5 June 2011.</ref> |
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|DATE OF BIRTH= 28 November 1960 |
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|PLACE OF BIRTH= Gibraltar |
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Galliano denied the allegations through his lawyer,<ref name="bbc.co.uk" /> and launched a defamation lawsuit against the couple accusing him of antisemitism.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://fashionscandal.com/index.php/2011/02/now-galliano-files-defamation-lawsuit/ |title= Now Galliano Files Defamation Lawsuit |website=Fashion Scandal |date= February 2011 |access-date=13 June 2013}}</ref> On 1 March 2011, Dior announced that it had begun procedures of dismissal for Galliano, with Dior's chief executive Sidney Toledano stating, "I very firmly condemn what was said by John Galliano",<ref name="bbc.co.uk">{{cite news|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-12611891|work=BBC News|title=John Galliano sacked by fashion house Dior|date=1 March 2011}}</ref> Dior announced it will continue to support the Galliano brand financially due to licence despite the scandal, and [[Bill Gaytten]] would replace John Galliano as [[creative director]] at the helm of Dior and the Galliano brand.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.nbcnews.com/id/wbna41955989 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110310030534/http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/41955989/ns/today-today_fashion_and_beauty/ |url-status=live |archive-date=10 March 2011 |title=MSNBC report on Galliano |date=7 March 2011 |publisher= msn.com |access-date=13 June 2013}}</ref> |
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|DATE OF DEATH= |
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|PLACE OF DEATH= |
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In France, the expression of antisemitic ideas is illegal. It was reported on 2 March 2011 that Galliano was to face trial in Paris for allegedly making antisemitic comments to two fellow customers in a café. The trial commenced on 22 June 2011.<ref>{{cite news |url= http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG8509639/John-Galliano-to-stand-trial-in-June.html |title=John Galliano to stand trial in June |work=telegraph|access-date= 13 June 2013 |location=London |date=12 May 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/jun/22/john-galliano-court-race-claims|title=John Galliano in court over race insults claims|date=22 June 2011 |work=The Guardian|access-date=22 June 2011|location=London}}</ref> Galliano's lawyer argued that the "series of public outbursts during which he uttered racist and anti-Semitic insults in a Paris café" were the result of "work-related stress and multiple addictions".<ref name="Galliano Case to Head Back to Labor Court">{{cite web | url=http://www.wwd.com/business-news/legal/galliano-case-to-head-back-to-labor-court-7294654?module=Business-latest | title=Galliano Case to Head Back to Labor Court | publisher=WWD | date=28 November 2013 | access-date=29 November 2013 | author=Diderich, Joelle}}{{subscription required}}</ref> |
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Galliano said that his mental state had been affected by the death of his friend and close business partner, Steven Robinson. <ref>{{Cite web |last=Odell |first=Amy |date=2011-08-22 |title=The Death of John Galliano’s Close Friend and Dior Colleague Revealed Years Later to Be Caused by a Drug Overdose |url=https://www.thecut.com/2011/08/the_death_of_john_gallianos_cl.html |access-date=2024-12-28 |website=The Cut |language=en}}</ref>On 8 September 2011, Galliano was found guilty of making antisemitic remarks and sentenced to a total of €6,000 in suspended fines.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.nbcnews.com/id/wbna44437695 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121005085158/http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/44437695/ns/today-style/t/designer-john-galliano-sentenced-pay-suspended-fine/ |url-status=live |archive-date=5 October 2012 |title= Designer Galliano sentenced in anti-Semitism case |date=8 September 2011 |publisher=msn.com |access-date= 13 June 2013}}</ref> |
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====Subsequent legal action==== |
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{{Update|section|date=December 2016}} |
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On 21 November 2013, the Paris Court of Appeals rejected an appeal by Christian Dior Couture SA, which was seeking to move the case to a commercial court from the {{lang|fr|[[Conseil de prud'hommes]]}} (Labour Court) and ordered Christian Dior Couture SA and John Galliano SA each to pay Galliano €2,500 and court costs.<ref name="Galliano Case to Head Back to Labor Court"/> Galliano had been "seeking compensation in the range of 6 million euros".<ref name="Galliano Case to Head Back to Labor Court"/> He lost the case in the labor court and was required to pay each party €1.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Chan |first=Stephanie |date=2014-11-04 |title=John Galliano Loses Unfair Dismissal Lawsuit |url=https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/general-news/john-galliano-loses-unfair-dismissal-746279/ |access-date=2023-07-09 |website=The Hollywood Reporter |language=en-US}}</ref> |
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==Honours== |
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* [[British Designer of the Year]] (1987, 1994, 1995, 1997). In 1997, he shared the award with [[Alexander McQueen]], his successor at [[Givenchy]]. |
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* Commander of the [[Order of the British Empire]] in the 2001 [[Birthday Honours]] List<ref>{{cite news | url= http://www.london-gazette.co.uk/issues/56237/supplements/24 | work= London Gazette | page= 24 of 50| date=16 June 2001 | title=Supplement No. 1, (Queen's Birthday Honours)| quote= John Charles Galliano, Fashion Designer. For services to the fashion industry.| access-date=13 June 2013}}</ref> for his services to the Fashion Industry as a Fashion Designer. He received his CBE on 27 November 2001 at [[Buckingham Palace]] in London, England. |
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* [[Royal Designers for Industry|RDI]] for his contribution to the fashion industry (2002) |
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* Appearance on ''[[The Independent on Sunday]]'s'' 2007 "pink list" for being one of "the most influential gay people in Britain"<ref>{{cite news|title=Home > News > UK > This Britain The pink list 2007: The IoS annual celebration of the great and the gay |url= https://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/this-britain/the-pink-list-2007-the-iiosi-annual-celebration-of-the-great-and-the-gay-447627.html|archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20080907103532/http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/this-britain/the-pink-list-2007-the-iiosi-annual-celebration-of-the-great-and-the-gay-447627.html|url-status= dead|archive-date= 7 September 2008|access-date=30 January 2011|newspaper=[[The Independent|The Independent on Sunday]]|date=6 May 2007|location=London}}</ref> |
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* [[French Legion of Honour]] (2009).<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/daily/090105-john-galliano-honoured-.aspx|title=Galliano Honoured|last=Bumpus|first=Jessica|date=5 January 2009|publisher=[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]|access-date=19 April 2011|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110312041009/http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/daily/090105-john-galliano-honoured-.aspx|archive-date=12 March 2011}}</ref> The medal was withdrawn by decree of the president of the Republic, [[François Hollande]], published in the official journal on 20 August 2012.<ref name=huff>[Le HuffPost/AFP] (24 August 2012). [http://www.huffingtonpost.fr/2012/08/24/john-galliano-legion-honneur-amende-antisemitisme_n_1827073.html John Galliano privé de Légion d'honneur après ses propos antisémites]. ''Le Huffington Post''/''Le Monde''. Accessed January 2014.</ref> |
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== Personal life == |
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In interviews, Galliano has given his full name as '''Juan Carlos Antonio Galliano-Guillén'''.<ref name="bio"/> He had a relationship with fellow Central St Martins student and fashion designer [[John Flett (fashion designer)|John Flett]] (1963–1991), whom he described as his soulmate.<ref name="Vanity Fair">{{cite news|last1=Sischy|first1=Ingrid|title=Galliano in the Wilderness|url=http://www.vanityfair.com/style/2013/07/galliano-first-interview-dior-sober|access-date=30 June 2015|publisher=Vanity Fair|date=July 2013}}</ref> Galliano currently shares his Paris home with his long-term partner Alexis Roche, a style consultant.<ref name="Vanity Fair"/><ref name="The Guardian Fox 01062015">{{cite news|last1=Fox|first1=Imogen|title=The lowdown on Amal Clooney's new stylist (and yes, he is John Galliano's boyfriend)|url=https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2015/jun/01/lowdown-amal-clooney-new-stylist-john-galliano-boyfriend-alexis-roche|access-date=30 June 2015|work=The Guardian|date=1 June 2015}}</ref> He is vegetarian for health reasons, telling French ''Elle'' that "The energy that I get from having fewer toxins in my body is extraordinary".<ref>Florence Besson,"Un Duo Anti-Fourrure," [https://www.peta.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/ELLE_France_John_Galliano_Dan_Mathews_Interview.pdf ''Elle''], 30 March 2018, see also Marrisa G Muller, "Maison Margiela’s John Galliano Going Fur Free Too," ''W'', 4 April 2018.</ref> |
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== References == |
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{{reflist}} |
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== External links == |
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{{Commons category}} |
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* [https://web.archive.org/web/20130605074321/http://johngalliano.com/ Official website of John Galliano S.A., a company that no longer employs Mr. Galliano] |
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{{Authority control}} |
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{{s-start}} |
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{{succession box | |
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before=[[Hubert de Givenchy]] | |
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title=Head Designer ''[[Givenchy]]''| |
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years=1995–1996 | |
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after=[[Alexander McQueen]] |
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}} |
}} |
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{{succession box | |
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before=[[Gianfranco Ferré]] | |
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title=Head Designer ''[[Christian Dior SA|Christian Dior]]'' | |
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years=1996–2011 | |
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after=[[Raf Simons]]}} |
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{{s-end}} |
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{{DEFAULTSORT:Galliano, John}} |
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Latest revision as of 20:33, 31 December 2024
John Galliano | |
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Born | Juan Carlos Antonio Galliano-Guillén[1] 28 November 1960 Gibraltar |
Nationality | British and Spanish |
Education | Central Saint Martins |
Labels |
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Partner | Alexis Roche |
Awards | British Fashion Designer of the Year for 1987, '94, '95 and '97 Dress of the Year Fashion Museum, Bath for 1987 Order of the British Empire (2001) French Legion of Honour (2009; revoked 2012) |
John Charles Galliano,[2] CBE, RDI (born 28 November 1960), is a British fashion designer. He was the creative director of his eponymous label John Galliano and French fashion houses Givenchy and Dior.[3] From 2014 to 2024, Galliano was the creative director of Paris-based fashion house Maison Margiela.[4] Galliano has been named British Designer of the Year four times. In a 2004 poll for the BBC, he was named the fifth most influential person in British culture.[5][6]
Early life and education
[edit]Galliano was born in Gibraltar to a Gibraltarian father of Italian descent, Juan Galliano, and a Spanish mother, Ana Guillén, and has two sisters.[1] His father worked as a plumber.[7] His family moved to England when Galliano was six, settling in Streatham and later Dulwich and Brockley, in South London.[7][8][9] He was raised in a strict Catholic family.[10]
Galliano attended St. Anthony's Primary School, Dulwich and Wilson's Grammar School in London.[11] He went on to study at Central Saint Martins and graduated in 1984 with a first class honours degree in Fashion Design.[8] His graduating collection was inspired by the French Revolution and entitled Les Incroyables.[8] The collection received positive reviews and was bought in its entirety for resale in the London fashion boutique Browns.[8] Galliano was appointed head designer of Givenchy in 1995, thus becoming the first British designer to head a French haute couture house.
Career
[edit]Early career and the John Galliano label
[edit]London
[edit]Galliano then started his own eponymous label alongside long-term collaborators Amanda Harlech, at that time stylist with Harpers and Queen, and milliner Stephen Jones.[12][13][14] On the back of this success, Galliano rented studio space in London. Initially, financial backing came from Johan Brun, and when this agreement came to an end, Danish entrepreneur Ole Peder Bertelsen, owner of firm Aguecheek, who were also backing Katharine Hamnett at the time, took over. This agreement ended in 1988 and he went bankrupt after his own London-based label failed.[citation needed]
Paris
[edit]In 1989, Galliano moved to Paris in search of financial backing and a strong client base. Galliano secured the backing of Paris-based Moroccan designer Faycal Amor (owner and creative director of fashion label Plein Sud) who invited him to set up his base in Paris at the Plein Sud headquarters. His first show was in 1989 as part of Paris Fashion Week.[citation needed]
Media fashion celebrity Susannah Constantine has worked for Galliano,[15] and he has also aided the future success of other designers including shoe designer Patrick Cox. In 1991, he collaborated with Kylie Minogue, designing the costumes for her Let's Get to It Tour.[16]
In 1993, Galliano's financial agreement with Amor ended and he did not have a showing in October, missing the season. With the help of American Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour and André Leon Talley, then European correspondent at Vanity Fair, Galliano was introduced to Portuguese socialite and fashion patron São Schlumberger and financial backers of venture firm Arbela Inc, John Bult and Mark Rice. It was through this partnership that Galliano received the financial backing and high society stamp needed to give him credibility in Paris. This collection was important in the development of Galliano as a fashion house, and is regarded as a 'fashion moment' in high fashion circles.[17][18]
Givenchy
[edit]In July 1995, he was appointed as the designer of Givenchy by Bernard Arnault, owner of luxury goods conglomerate LVMH. On 21 January 1996, Galliano presented his first couture show at the helm of Givenchy at the Stade de France. The collection received high praise within the fashion media.[citation needed] Some of Galliano's designs for Givenchy were licensed to Vogue Patterns.[19] He was then moved to Dior by LVMH, and succeeded at Givenchy by Alexander McQueen.
Dior
[edit]In October 1996, LVMH moved Galliano to Christian Dior, replacing Italian designer Gianfranco Ferré.[20] At Dior, Galliano received widespread critical acclaim for his Haute Couture and ready-to-wear collections, for the whole duration of his tenure there.[citation needed]
Galliano designed the chinoiserie chartreuse gown worn by Nicole Kidman at the 69th Academy Awards in 1997.[21]
In 2007, Steven Robinson died[22],it was maintained that he had a heart attack, but later was revealed to be a drug overdose. [23] At the time Robinson had been Galliano's supporter and worked closely with him over 20 years, providing creative input, but also organising many of the events.[24] [25]According to the documentary "High and Low", Galliano stated it affected him heavily.[26]
In 2010, Galliano identified his love of theatre and femininity as central to his creations; he said "my role is to seduce", and credited Standard Oil heiress Millicent Rogers as an influence.[27]
Antisemitic incident and firing
[edit]In December 2010, a drunken Galliano insulted a group of Italian women in Paris with antisemitic slurs, which was caught on camera. The video resurfaced in February 2011, just before Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2011/2012. Facing public and legal scrutiny, he was fired from his role as creative director at Dior.[28]
Oscar de la Renta
[edit]In 2013, a Guardian article describing Galliano's incident claims "fashion forgave John Galliano" due to his "two years' exile" and "several statements expressing his sorrow and self-disgust."[citation needed]
In early 2013, Galliano accepted an invitation from Oscar de la Renta, brokered by Anna Wintour, for a temporary residency at de la Renta's design studio to help prepare for a showing of his Fall 2013 ready-to-wear collection during February New York Fashion Week.[29] Galliano also received a measure of absolution from the Anti-Defamation League, which lauded his efforts to atone for his misdeeds and wished him well.[30] The ADL again came to his defence after the New York Post ran a photo of him on his way to the de la Renta show dressed in what it claimed was Hasidic-like garb.[31][32]
Galliano remained backstage at the show, which received favourable reviews[33][34] amid speculation about his future, including as a possible successor to Oscar de la Renta[35] and that Galliano might take up a teaching post at Parsons The New School for Design.[36] On 12 June 2013, Galliano's first filmed interview since his dismissal from Christian Dior was broadcast on United States television. He closed this conversation by stating, "I am able to create. I am ready to create... [and] I hope through my atonement I'll be given a second chance".[37]
Maison Margiela
[edit]On 6 October 2014, the OTB Group announced that John Galliano had joined Maison Margiela to take the responsibility of the creative direction of the house,[38] marking the designer's return to a leading role in designing luxury fashion. Just a few weeks later, on the occasion of the annual British Fashion Awards, Galliano presented the Outstanding Achievement Award to Anna Wintour who wore Galliano's first creation for Maison Martin Margiela, "an unambiguous fashion blessing" from the Editor in Chief of American Vogue according to Vanessa Friedman, Fashion Director of The New York Times.[39]
Galliano exhibited his first couture collection for Margiela during London Collections: Men, on 12 January 2015. He told French Elle in 2018 that he would stop using fur in his collections, citing as inspiration from a meeting with Penélope Cruz and PETA's Dan Mathews.[40]
On 26 September 2018, Galliano made a statement in Paris at his Maison Margiela show, when he unveiled Mutiny, his first perfume for the fashion house.[41][42]
The designer left Maison Margiela in December 2024.[43]
Controversies
[edit]Antisemitic outburst
[edit]Circa December 2010, a drunken Galliano insulted a group of Jewish women in Paris bar La Perle,[44] saying: "I love Hitler... People like you would be dead. Your mothers, your forefathers would all be fucking gassed".[45][46][47] The video resurfaced in February 2011, just before Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2011/2012.
On 25 February 2011, Dior announced their suspension of Galliano[48] including the following statement:
Because of the particularly odious character of the behaviour and comments made by John Galliano in a video made public on Monday, the Dior house decided to suspend him immediately and has engaged in a process to dismiss him.[44]
The show-business industry expressed mixed feelings towards the designer's antisemitic speech.[49][50] Natalie Portman, who had an endorsement contract with Dior, said she was "deeply shocked" by Galliano's comments and that "these still-existing prejudices... are the opposite of all that is beautiful"[51][52] and "As an individual who is proud to be Jewish, [she] will not be associated with Mr. Galliano in any way".[44] However, another model for Dior, French model and actress Eva Green, said of the incident: "Sometimes, you can make mistakes. I don't think he's antisemitic. I'm Jewish. I don't think he has anything against the Jews. I think it's more that he was probably a bit drunk".[53]
Galliano denied the allegations through his lawyer,[54] and launched a defamation lawsuit against the couple accusing him of antisemitism.[55] On 1 March 2011, Dior announced that it had begun procedures of dismissal for Galliano, with Dior's chief executive Sidney Toledano stating, "I very firmly condemn what was said by John Galliano",[54] Dior announced it will continue to support the Galliano brand financially due to licence despite the scandal, and Bill Gaytten would replace John Galliano as creative director at the helm of Dior and the Galliano brand.[56]
In France, the expression of antisemitic ideas is illegal. It was reported on 2 March 2011 that Galliano was to face trial in Paris for allegedly making antisemitic comments to two fellow customers in a café. The trial commenced on 22 June 2011.[57][58] Galliano's lawyer argued that the "series of public outbursts during which he uttered racist and anti-Semitic insults in a Paris café" were the result of "work-related stress and multiple addictions".[59]
Galliano said that his mental state had been affected by the death of his friend and close business partner, Steven Robinson. [60]On 8 September 2011, Galliano was found guilty of making antisemitic remarks and sentenced to a total of €6,000 in suspended fines.[61]
Subsequent legal action
[edit]This section needs to be updated.(December 2016) |
On 21 November 2013, the Paris Court of Appeals rejected an appeal by Christian Dior Couture SA, which was seeking to move the case to a commercial court from the Conseil de prud'hommes (Labour Court) and ordered Christian Dior Couture SA and John Galliano SA each to pay Galliano €2,500 and court costs.[59] Galliano had been "seeking compensation in the range of 6 million euros".[59] He lost the case in the labor court and was required to pay each party €1.[62]
Honours
[edit]- British Designer of the Year (1987, 1994, 1995, 1997). In 1997, he shared the award with Alexander McQueen, his successor at Givenchy.
- Commander of the Order of the British Empire in the 2001 Birthday Honours List[63] for his services to the Fashion Industry as a Fashion Designer. He received his CBE on 27 November 2001 at Buckingham Palace in London, England.
- RDI for his contribution to the fashion industry (2002)
- Appearance on The Independent on Sunday's 2007 "pink list" for being one of "the most influential gay people in Britain"[64]
- French Legion of Honour (2009).[65] The medal was withdrawn by decree of the president of the Republic, François Hollande, published in the official journal on 20 August 2012.[66]
Personal life
[edit]In interviews, Galliano has given his full name as Juan Carlos Antonio Galliano-Guillén.[1] He had a relationship with fellow Central St Martins student and fashion designer John Flett (1963–1991), whom he described as his soulmate.[67] Galliano currently shares his Paris home with his long-term partner Alexis Roche, a style consultant.[67][68] He is vegetarian for health reasons, telling French Elle that "The energy that I get from having fewer toxins in my body is extraordinary".[69]
References
[edit]- ^ a b c Specter, Michael (30 November 2003). "The extraordinary world of John Galliano (part two)". The Guardian. Archived from the original on 1 September 2022. Retrieved 1 September 2022.
- ^ David James Smith, "The Secret Torments of Galliano", Sunday Times Magazine, 22 August 2011, p. 20, at p. 27: "I ordered his birth certificate from the Gibraltar registry and in fact he was named John Charles Galliano".
- ^ White, Belinda (15 April 2011). "John Galliano sacked from his eponymous label". The Telegraph. London. Archived from the original on 11 June 2012. Retrieved 15 May 2012.
- ^ Socha, Miles (6 October 2014). "John Galliano Joins Maison Martin Margiela". New York: Women's Wear Daily. Retrieved 6 October 2014.
- ^ "iPod designer voted UK's most influential cultural icon". The Register. 17 November 2016.
- ^ "iPod designer leads culture list". BBC. 17 November 2016.
- ^ a b BBC news staff (1 March 2011). "Profile: John Galliano". BBC News. Retrieved 1 September 2022.
- ^ a b c d Gibbons, Katie (2 March 2011). "ELL profiles the world's most hated fashion man". Eastlondonlines. Retrieved 1 September 2022.
- ^ "John Galliano" by Colin McDowell, page 74 – ISBN 0-297-81938-0
- ^ McQuillan, Deirdre (22 February 2015). "John Galliano and Alexander McQueen: designers' lives seedily needled". The Irish Times. Retrieved 14 January 2023.
- ^ "John Galliano Profile". Businessoffashion.com. The Business of Fashion. Retrieved 1 September 2022.
- ^ Barber, Lynn (18 August 2007). "My brilliant career". The Guardian. London.
- ^ Amy Odell. "John Galliano Reminisces About His Eighties Club Days - The Cut". Nymag.com. Archived from the original on 28 September 2015. Retrieved 27 September 2015.
- ^ [1] Archived 29 March 2014 at the Wayback Machine
- ^ "Just a couple of swells". The Guardian. London. 11 February 2011. Retrieved 13 June 2013.
- ^ "John Galliano - Vogue Australia". www.vogue.com.au. Archived from the original on 10 May 2017.
- ^ Chris Rovzar, Galliano Ascending Archived 4 September 2014 at the Wayback Machine, Vanity Fair, 5 June 2013
- ^ John Galliano Archived 3 September 2013 at the Wayback Machine, Vogue
- ^ PatternVault blog, 1 August 2011 John Galliano for Givenchy: Vogue Patterns
- ^ "John Galliano" by Colin McDowell, page 15; ISBN 0-297-81938-0
- ^ Cusumano, Katherine (23 May 2017). "Don't Call It a Comeback: Nicole Kidman Has a Long History of Wearing Daring Dresses on the Red Carpet". W. Retrieved 7 December 2020.
- ^ Vogue (10 April 2007). "STEVEN ROBINSON REMEMBERED". British Vogue. Retrieved 28 December 2024.
- ^ Odell, Amy (22 August 2011). "The Death of John Galliano's Close Friend and Dior Colleague Revealed Years Later to Be Caused by a Drug Overdose". The Cut. Retrieved 28 December 2024.
- ^ Horyn, Cathy (9 April 2007). "Key Man: Steven Robinson". On the Runway Blog. Retrieved 28 December 2024.
- ^ Menkes, Suzy. "Obituary: Steven Robinson, Dior designer". Archived from the original on 10 October 2016. Retrieved 28 December 2024.
- ^ Macdonald, Kevin (2023). "High and Low - John Galliano".
{{cite web}}
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(help) - ^ Horyn, Cathy (27 January 2010). "In Paris, Tempted by History". The New York Times. Retrieved 15 January 2023.
- ^ Horyn, Cathy (1 March 2011). "John Galliano Fired by Dior After Video Rant". The New York Times. Retrieved 1 September 2022.
- ^ "Is John Galliano Staging A Successful Comeback?", by Terri Pous, Time, 25 January 2013.
- ^ "ADL Welcomes Recovery and Redemption of Fashion Designer John Galliano", ADL Press Release, 18 January 2013.
- ^ "Jew-bash designer Galliano's costume mocks faithful" by Doree Lewak, David Seifman and Jeane MacIntosh, New York Post, 13 February 2013.
- ^ "ADL: New York Post Story on John Galliano ‘A Complete Distortion’", ADL Press Release, 13 February 2013.
- ^ "Oscar de la Renta / Fall 2013 RTW" Archived 9 March 2013 at the Wayback Machine by Mark Holgate, Vogue, 12 February 2013.
- ^ "Oscar de la Renta RTW Fall 2013", Women's Wear Daily, 12 February 2013.
- ^ "A Tentative Step by a Fallen Star to Come Back" by Eric Wilson, The New York Times, 13 February 2013.
- ^ "Parsons Dean of Fashion ‘Loves John Galliano’" by Hilary Moss, The Cut, New York Magazine, 20 March 2013.
- ^ "John Galliano". Charlie Rose. Archived from the original on 18 June 2013. Retrieved 13 June 2013.
- ^ "OTB Announcement" (PDF). Otb.net. Archived from the original (PDF) on 18 October 2014. Retrieved 27 September 2015.
- ^ Friedman, Vanessa (2 December 2014). "Anna Wintour Wears Margiela by John Galliano: The Message and the Dress". The New York Times. Retrieved 27 September 2015.
- ^ Florence Besson,"Un Duo Anti-Fourrure," Elle, 30 March 2018, see also Marrisa G Muller, "Maison Margiela’s John Galliano Going Fur Free Too" W, 4 April 2018.
- ^ "John Galliano Hails Gen Z As Maison Margiela Launches New Fragrance Mutiny". Vogue. 26 September 2018. Retrieved 26 September 2018.
- ^ "Meet Maison Margiela's New Fragrance Mutiny". British Vogue. Vogue. 26 September 2018. Retrieved 26 September 2018.
- ^ "John Galliano exits Maison Margiela. Where will he go next?". The Independent. 12 December 2024. Retrieved 28 December 2024.
- ^ a b c "John Galliano sacked by Christian Dior over alleged antisemitic rant [France]". Business & Human Rights Resource Centre (in French). Retrieved 13 June 2022.
- ^ Thurman, Judith (1 March 2011). "John Galliano's Words". The New Yorker. Retrieved 13 June 2022.
- ^ Wang, Connie. "Video Of John Galliano's Racist Rantings". www.refinery29.com. Retrieved 13 June 2022.
- ^ Covit, Dana. "John Galliano Antisemitic Slurs - Galliano Suspended From Dior". www.refinery29.com. Retrieved 13 June 2022.
- ^ "John Galliano suspended by Dior following arrest over 'anti-semitic rant'". The Daily Telegraph. London. 25 February 2011. Archived from the original on 1 March 2011.
- ^ Belinda White, Dior ambassador Natalie Portman speaks out on Galliano Archived 15 June 2013 at the Wayback Machine, Telegraph, 1 March 2011
- ^ Lauren Milligan, My Friend John, Vogue, 6 June 2011.
- ^ Horyn, Cathy (28 February 2011). "Natalie Portman Condemns Galliano". The New York Times.
- ^ "Natalie Portman, Dior Directors Slam John Galliano's Antisemitic Comments". Fox News. 1 March 2011.
- ^ Eva Green interview: "Playing evil" by Elizabeth Day, The Observer, 5 June 2011.
- ^ a b "John Galliano sacked by fashion house Dior". BBC News. 1 March 2011.
- ^ "Now Galliano Files Defamation Lawsuit". Fashion Scandal. February 2011. Retrieved 13 June 2013.
- ^ "MSNBC report on Galliano". msn.com. 7 March 2011. Archived from the original on 10 March 2011. Retrieved 13 June 2013.
- ^ "John Galliano to stand trial in June". telegraph. London. 12 May 2011. Retrieved 13 June 2013.
- ^ "John Galliano in court over race insults claims". The Guardian. London. 22 June 2011. Retrieved 22 June 2011.
- ^ a b c Diderich, Joelle (28 November 2013). "Galliano Case to Head Back to Labor Court". WWD. Retrieved 29 November 2013.(subscription required)
- ^ Odell, Amy (22 August 2011). "The Death of John Galliano's Close Friend and Dior Colleague Revealed Years Later to Be Caused by a Drug Overdose". The Cut. Retrieved 28 December 2024.
- ^ "Designer Galliano sentenced in anti-Semitism case". msn.com. 8 September 2011. Archived from the original on 5 October 2012. Retrieved 13 June 2013.
- ^ Chan, Stephanie (4 November 2014). "John Galliano Loses Unfair Dismissal Lawsuit". The Hollywood Reporter. Retrieved 9 July 2023.
- ^ "Supplement No. 1, (Queen's Birthday Honours)". London Gazette. 16 June 2001. p. 24 of 50. Retrieved 13 June 2013.
John Charles Galliano, Fashion Designer. For services to the fashion industry.
- ^ "Home > News > UK > This Britain The pink list 2007: The IoS annual celebration of the great and the gay". The Independent on Sunday. London. 6 May 2007. Archived from the original on 7 September 2008. Retrieved 30 January 2011.
- ^ Bumpus, Jessica (5 January 2009). "Galliano Honoured". Vogue. Archived from the original on 12 March 2011. Retrieved 19 April 2011.
- ^ [Le HuffPost/AFP] (24 August 2012). John Galliano privé de Légion d'honneur après ses propos antisémites. Le Huffington Post/Le Monde. Accessed January 2014.
- ^ a b Sischy, Ingrid (July 2013). "Galliano in the Wilderness". Vanity Fair. Retrieved 30 June 2015.
- ^ Fox, Imogen (1 June 2015). "The lowdown on Amal Clooney's new stylist (and yes, he is John Galliano's boyfriend)". The Guardian. Retrieved 30 June 2015.
- ^ Florence Besson,"Un Duo Anti-Fourrure," Elle, 30 March 2018, see also Marrisa G Muller, "Maison Margiela’s John Galliano Going Fur Free Too," W, 4 April 2018.
External links
[edit]- 1960 births
- Living people
- Alumni of Central Saint Martins
- British fashion designers
- British people of Gibraltarian descent
- British people of Italian descent
- British people of Spanish descent
- Commanders of the Order of the British Empire
- Creative directors
- Gibraltarian businesspeople
- High fashion brands
- LGBTQ fashion designers
- British LGBTQ artists
- People of Ligurian descent
- Dior people
- Fashion designers from Paris
- Gibraltarian artists
- People stripped of awards