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{{Short description|English fashion designer (1947–2011)}} |
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{{Use dmy dates|date=April 2011}} |
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{{Use dmy dates|date=June 2020}} |
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'''Loulou de la Falaise''' ({{IPA-fr|lu.lu də la fa.lɛz}}; born 1948-1911) is a fashion [[muse]] and [[fashion designer|designer]] associated with [[Yves Saint-Laurent (designer)|Yves Saint-Laurent]]. |
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{{Infobox person |
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| honorific_prefix = |
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| name = Loulou de La Falaise |
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| honorific_suffix = |
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| image = |
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| alt = |
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| caption = |
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| native_name = |
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| native_name_lang = |
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| birth_name = Louise Vava Lucia Henriette Le Bailly de La Falaise |
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| birth_date = {{Birth date|1947|05|04|df=yes}} |
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| birth_place = England |
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| death_date = {{Death date and age|2011|11|5|1947|05|04|df=yes}} |
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| death_place = [[Gisors]], France |
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| resting_place = |
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| nationality = |
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| education = |
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| alma_mater = |
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| known_for = Fashion muse, designer |
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| notable_works = |
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| style = |
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| movement = |
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| spouse = {{plainlist| |
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* {{marriage|[[Desmond FitzGerald, 29th Knight of Glin]]|1966|1970|end=div}} |
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* {{marriage|Thadée Klossowski de Rola<br />|1977}} |
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}} |
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| children = 1 |
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| awards = |
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| parents = Count Alain Le Bailly de La Falaise<br />[[Maxime de la Falaise|Maxime Birley]] |
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}} |
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'''Louise Vava Lucia Henriette Le Bailly de La Falaise''' ({{IPA|fr|lu.lu də la fa.lɛz}}; 4 May 1947 – 5 November 2011),<ref name="courrier-picard1">{{cite web|url=http://www.courrier-picard.fr/courrier/Picardie-Express/Loulou-de-la-Falaise-meurt-chez-elle|title=Le Courrier picard - Loulou de la Falaise meurt chez elle - Picardie Express - Votre actualité quotidienne locale, régionale et nationale|language=fr|publisher=Courrier-picard.fr|accessdate=2011-11-14}}</ref> known as '''Loulou de la Falaise''', was an English fashion [[muse]] and accessory and jewellery [[fashion designer|designer]] associated with [[Yves Saint-Laurent (designer)|Yves Saint Laurent]].<ref>[http://www.lefigaro.fr/flash-actu/2011/11/05/97001-20111105FILWWW00355-deces-de-loulou-de-la-falaise.php Dècès de Loulou de la Falaise]</ref> Author [[Judith Thurman]], writing in ''[[The New Yorker]]'' magazine, called La Falaise "the quintessential Rive Gauche haute [[Bohemianism|bohémienne]]".<ref>{{cite magazine|last=Thurman|first=Judith|url=https://www.newyorker.com/archive/2002/03/18/020318crat_atlarge|title=In Fashion: Swann Song|magazine=The New Yorker|date=2011-08-01|accessdate=2011-11-14}}</ref> |
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==Early life and education== |
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Her mother [[Maxime de la Falaise]] was a noted fashionista of her day and a model for [[Elsa Schiaparelli|Schiaparelli]]. Loulou therefore grew up in the world of high fashion. After a short-lived first marriage to the [[Desmond FitzGerald, 29th Knight of Glin]], she moved to Paris and became the friend and creative partner of Yves Saint Laurent. According to ''[[The Independent]]'', she helped inspire his 1966 female [[tuxedo]] ''Le Smoking'' and his see-through blouses. The designer and his former muse collaborated until his death.<ref>Hermione Eyre "The chic parade". The Independent (London). 14 Apr 2007. FindArticles.com. Retrieved 21 Nov. 2007. [http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qn4158/is_20070414/ai_n19018212/pg_2]</ref> |
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Louise Vava Lucia Henriette Le Bailly de La Falaise was born on 4 May 1947<ref>{{cite news |title=A mix of French chic and Anglo-Irish eccentricity |url=https://www.irishtimes.com/life-and-style/people/a-mix-of-french-chic-and-anglo-irish-eccentricity-1.8836 |access-date=26 October 2021 |newspaper=The Irish Times |date=8 November 2011 |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |last1=Petkanas |first1=Christopher |title=The Private Worlds of Loulou de La Falaise |url=https://news.yahoo.com/private-worlds-loulou-la-falaise-173947099.html |access-date=26 October 2021 |work=news.yahoo.com |date=17 April 2018}}</ref> in England, the eldest child and only daughter of Alain, Count de La Falaise (1903–1977), a French writer, translator and publisher, and his second wife, the former [[Maxime de la Falaise|Maxime Birley]] (1922–2009), an Anglo-Irish fashion model, whom photographer [[Cecil Beaton]] once told, "You are the only English woman I know who manages to be really chic in really hideous clothes".<ref>Father as marquis noted in his obituary, published in ''The New York Times'' on 11 October 1977, accessed on 5 November 2011</ref><ref>Father's full name, Alain R. Le Bailly de La Falaise, is cited on his September 1946 marriage license, accessed on ancestry.com on 7 November 2011</ref><ref>Her father's first wife, married in 1931 and later divorced, was Margaret Webb, an [[United States|American]].</ref><ref>Alicia Drake, ''The Beautiful Fall'' (Hachette Digital, 2007), retrieved via Google Books on 7 November 2011</ref><ref name="nytimes2">{{cite news|last=Fox|first=Margalit|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2009/05/02/nyregion/02falaise.html|title=Maxime de la Falaise, Model, Designer and Muse, Is Dead at 86|location=France|work=[[The New York Times]]|date=2009-05-05|accessdate=2011-11-14}}</ref><ref name="lefigaro2">{{cite web|author=lefigaro.fr|url=http://www.lefigaro.fr/culture/2011/11/05/03004-20111105ARTFIG00381-la-creatrice-loulou-de-la-falaise-est-decedee.php|title=Le Figaro - Culture: La créatrice Loulou de la Falaise est décédée|date=5 November 2011|publisher=Lefigaro.fr|accessdate=2011-11-14}}</ref> |
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Three of her christening names honoured relations: Louise (her father's elder sister, who died as a teenager); Vava (one of the names of her maternal grandmother, [[Rhoda Vava Mary Lecky Pike|Lady Birley]]); and Henriette (the name of her paternal grandmother, Henriette Hennessy, later comtesse Alain Hocquart de Turtot, a member of the Hennessy cognac family). La Falaise was allegedly baptised not with holy water but with Shocking, the scent by fashion designer [[Elsa Schiaparelli]], her mother's employer.<ref name="thedailybeast1">{{cite web|first=Alice|last=Cavanagh|url=http://www.thedailybeast.com/articles/2011/11/07/loulou-de-la-falaise-yves-saint-laurent-s-muse-dies-at-63-photos.html|title=Loulou de la Falaise, Yves Saint Laurent's Muse, Dies at 63|publisher=The Daily Beast|date=2011-11-07|accessdate=2011-11-14}}</ref> |
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De la Falaise now runs Maison de Loulou, a [[Rive Gauche|Left Bank]] [[boutique]] in Paris. |
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After her parents' divorce in 1950, following her mother's infidelities and a French court's declaration of her as an unfit mother, Loulou and her brother went to live with foster families until she was seven.<ref name="nytimes3"/><ref name="autogenerated2007">Alicia Drake, ''The Beautiful Fall'' (Hachette Digital, 2007), retrieved via Google Books on 5 November 2011</ref> After that, La Falaise was enrolled in English boarding schools, and "her school holidays were shared between mother, father, and the second foster family".<ref name="autogenerated2007"/> She attended a boarding school in Switzerland as well as the [[Lycée Français de New York]], though was expelled from each due to her rebellious nature.<ref name="telegraph1">{{cite news|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/culture-obituaries/8873206/Loulou-de-la-Falaise.html|title=Loulou de la Falaise|work=The Telegraph|accessdate=2011-11-14|location=London|date=6 November 2011}}</ref> |
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==Family== |
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===Family=== |
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Born Louise Vava Lucia Henriette de la Falaise, she is the daughter of [[Alain de la Falaise|Alain de la Falaise]], a French writer and translator, and his first wife, the former [[Maxime de la Falaise|Maxime Birley]], a model of the Fifties,<ref>Runway Divas: Maxime de la Falaise [http://www.divasthesite.com/Runway_Divas/Maxime_Falaise.htm]. She made the International Best-Dressed List Hall of Fame in 2004.[http://www.vanityfair.com/culture/bestdressed/bestdressed_women?currentPage=2], as did her granddaughter Lucie in 1997. See article "Design & Interiors: A life less ordinary; Cecil Beaton called Maxime de la Falaise `the only truly chic Englishwoman'." by Ian Phillips. The Independent (London, England)| Date: 10/9/2004"[http://www.encyclopedia.com/doc/1G1-123031115.html]</ref> then a cookbook author<ref>[http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9E0CE3DC153AF935A25751C1A964958260 Author of Seven Centuries of English Cooking, issued in 1978]</ref> and a newspaper columnist.<ref>De la Falaise authored "Sur l'Album de la Comtesse" in the French newspaper ''Le Canard enchaîné''.[[:fr:Album de la Comtesse]]</ref> Her maternal grandfather was the portrait painter Sir [[Oswald Birley]], and her uncle [[Mark Birley]] (1930–2007). |
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La Falaise's maternal grandfather was portrait painter Sir [[Oswald Birley]], and an uncle was [[Mark Birley]] (1930–2007), restaurateur and founder of the London nightclub "Annabel's". Another uncle, her father's elder brother, was [[Henri de La Falaise|Henri de La Falaise, Marquis de La Coudraye]], (1898–1972), film director and third husband of American actress [[Gloria Swanson]] (1899–1983). Her paternal grandfather was a three-time French [[Olympic gold medal]]list in [[fencing]], [[Georges de la Falaise|Louis Gabriel de La Falaise]] (1866–1910).<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.sports-reference.com/olympics/athletes/de/georges-count-de-la-falaise-1.html|title=Georges de la Falaise Biography and Olympic Results|publisher=Sports-reference.com|accessdate=2011-11-14|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090622180707/http://www.sports-reference.com/olympics/athletes/de/georges-count-de-la-falaise-1.html|archive-date=22 June 2009|url-status=dead}}</ref> |
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Loulou de La Falaise had one sibling, Alexis Richard Dion Oswald Le Bailly de La Falaise, (1948–2004), a furniture designer, who appeared in the [[Andy Warhol]] film ''Tub Girls''.<ref name="nytimes2"/><ref name="nytimes3">{{cite news|first=Christopher|last=Petkanas|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2010/08/22/t-magazine/22talk-petkanas-t.html?pagewanted=all|title=Lady Libertine|work=[[The New York Times]]|accessdate=2011-11-14|date=18 August 2010}}</ref> After the death of her uncle in 1972, her father became the Marquis de La Coudraye, as he died without issue. After her father's death in 1977, her brother assumed the title, Marquis de La Coudraye (until his death in 2004). |
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She has a brother, Alexis de la Falaise, an interior designer, who appeared in the [[Andy Warhol]] film ''Tub Girls''; Alexis has two children, both models. His daughter, [[Lucie de la Falaise]] (born 12 October 1970), also a model and actress, is married to [[Marlon Richards]], the son of [[Rolling Stones|Rolling Stone]] [[Keith Richards]] and [[Anita Pallenberg]]. His son Daniel is also a model. |
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Her niece, [[Lucie de la Falaise|Lucie Le Bailly de La Falaise]] (born 19 February 1973), a model, is the wife of Marlon Richards, son of [[Keith Richards]] and [[Anita Pallenberg]]. Her nephew, Daniel Le Bailly de La Falaise (born 6 September 1970), is a professional chef and food writer and the current Marquis de La Coudraye.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.newyorksocialdiary.com/node/1904435|title=18 November 2010: A French Gourmet Adventure|publisher=New York Social Diary|accessdate=2011-11-14}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.allthebestblog.co.uk/2010/09/daniel-de-la-falaises-carrot-tarragon-soup.html|title=Daniel de la Falaise's Carrot Tarragon Soup|publisher=Allthebestblog.co.uk|accessdate=2011-11-14|url-status=dead|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20111106061717/http://www.allthebestblog.co.uk/2010/09/daniel-de-la-falaises-carrot-tarragon-soup.html|archivedate=6 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.porteliotfestival.com/performers-2011/daniel-de-la-falaise-2|title=Daniel de la Falaise|publisher=Port Eliot Festival|date=2011-05-04|accessdate=2011-11-14|url-status=dead|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20111109022328/http://www.porteliotfestival.com/performers-2011/daniel-de-la-falaise-2/|archivedate=9 November 2011}}</ref> |
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La Falaise's first husband was [[Desmond FitzGerald, 29th Knight of Glin|Desmond FitzGerald]], the 29th [[Knight of Glin]]; they had no children. After their divorce, she married the artist [[Thadée Klossowski]], a son of the painter [[Balthus]], by whom she has a daughter, Anna.[http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/06/05/on-rue-st-honore-paris/] |
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===Name=== |
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A great-uncle was [[Henri de la Falaise]], Marquis de La Falaise de La Coudraye (1898–1972), a film director and third husband of American actress [[Gloria Swanson]]. |
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The family's actual surname is ''Le Bailly'', though members have used ''Le Bailly de La Falaise'', referring to an ancestral estate, since the mid 19th century; it is typically abbreviated to ''de La Falaise''.<ref>As Loulou de La Falaise's father's elder brother, the Marquis de Coudraye, told ''The New York Times'' (7 October 1925), "My patronymic name is Le Bailly, but... I use the name de La Falaise because it is one of the great-grandfather branches of the Le Bailly family. De La Falaise is the only existing branch of that family today. So this should be my entire name: James Henry Le Bailly de La Falaise, Marquis de La Coudraye".</ref><ref>The title held by the head of the family, Marquis de La Coudraye, was granted, by an 1876 act of succession, to the younger son of Pacôme-François Le Bailly, Seigneur de La Falaise, and his wife, Pauline-Louise-Victoire de Loynes, daughter of Denis, Marquis de La Coudraye.</ref> |
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She is a distant cousin of French [[Olympic gold medal]]list in [[fencing]] [[de la Falaise|Count Louis Venant Gabriel de la Falaise]] (1866–1910). |
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==Career== |
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La Falaise moved to [[New York City]] in the late 1960s, where she briefly modelled for American ''[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]'' before turning to design printed fabrics for [[Halston]]. Late in the decade, she worked as a junior editor at the British society magazine ''[[Queen (magazine)|Queen]]'', during which time she met Saint Laurent.<ref name="telegraph1"/> Eventually, she moved to Paris, where she joined his haute-couture firm in 1972. Responding to a description of her as a Saint Laurent muse in 2010, La Falaise responded, "For me, a muse is someone who looks glamorous but is quite passive, whereas I was very hard-working. I worked from 9 am to 9 pm, or even 2 am. I certainly wasn't passive."<ref name="thedailybeast1"/> |
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{{reflist}} |
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"Her official task was to bring her eccentric style to accessories and jewellery, and she duly came up with often-chunky designs incorporating large colourful stones, enamel work or rock crystal".<ref name="telegraph1"/> La Falaise also inspired Saint Laurent with her inventive wardrobe: "one week she was Desdemona in purple velvet flares and a crown of flowers, the next Marlene [Dietrich] with plucked crescent-shaped eyebrows".<ref name="lefigaro2"/><ref name="autogenerated2007"/> In 2002, when Saint Laurent retired, La Falaise began producing her own clothing and jewellery designs.<ref name="lefigaro1"/> As reported in ''The [[New York Times]]'' by fashion writer [[Cathy Horyn]], "The clothing line captured much of her rare taste—well-cut blazers in the best English tweeds, French sailor pants in linen, striped [[silk blouses]] with cheeky black lace edging, masculine walking coats with fur linings, and gorgeous knits in perfectly chosen colors".<ref name="nytimes1"/> |
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==References== |
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* [[Natasha Fraser-Cavassoni|Fraser-Cavassoni, Natasha]] (2005). "Loulou's Back in Town" ''Mail on Sunday'' 7 March 2005. Retrieved 21 November 2007.[http://www.encyclopedia.com/doc/1P2-2547984.html]. Loulou de la Falaise was muse to Yves Saint Laurent for three decades. Now she has her own eponymous collection and, with the opening of her second Parisian boutique, is firmly established as the queen of French chic. |
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She also designed cloisonné boxes and porcelain vases for Asiatides,<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.asiatides.com/products_creativity.html# |website=www.asiatides.com |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111107010800/http://www.asiatides.com/products_creativity.html |archive-date=7 November 2011|title=Creativity Engine}}</ref> as well as jewellery for the boutique of the [[Majorelle Garden]] in [[Marrakech]], Morocco.<ref name="lefigaro2"/><ref>{{cite web|url=http://madame.lefigaro.fr/celebrites/prive-avec-loulou-de-falaise-011207-10216|title=En privé avec… Loulou de la Falaise|publisher=Madame.lefigaro.fr|date=2011-03-04|access-date=2011-11-14}}</ref> |
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*Columbia, David Patrick (2007). "NEW YORKER MARK BIRLEY PASSES – The man who turned built-in-elegance into a centimillion dollar restaurant empire" . San Francisco Sentinel, 27 August 2007. Retrieved 21 November 2007.[http://www.sanfranciscosentinel.com/?p=4417] |
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After more than three decades of designing jewellery and accessories for Saint Laurent, La Falaise launched her own fashion business, designing ready-to-wear, costume jewellery, and accessories, which were retailed in the U.S. as well as two Loulou de La Falaise shops in Paris.<ref name="lefigaro1">{{cite web|url=http://madame.lefigaro.fr/style/les-fantaisies-de-loulou-090107-4938|title=Les fantaisies de Loulou|publisher=Madame.lefigaro.fr|date=2007-01-08|accessdate=2011-11-14}}</ref><ref name="nytimes1">{{cite news|last=Horyn|first=Cathy|url=http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/11/05/loulou-de-la-falaise-a-muse-to-yves-saint-laurent-dies|title=Loulou de la Falaise, a Muse to Yves Saint Laurent, Dies at 63|publisher=Runway.blogs.nytimes.com|date=2011-11-05|accessdate=2011-11-14}}</ref> |
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{{Birley family}} |
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She sold simplified versions of her jewellery designs in a line created for the [[Home Shopping Network]] and created costume jewellery for [[Oscar de la Renta]].<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.businessoffashion.com/2011/11/op-ed-remembering-loulou-de-la-falaise.html|title=Op-Ed | Remembering Loulou de la Falaise|publisher=Businessoffashion.com|date=2011-11-07|accessdate=2011-11-14}}</ref><ref name="autogenerated1">{{cite web|url=http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/loulou-de-la-falaise-dies-at-63-5353040|title=Loulou de la Falaise, YSL Collaborator, Dies at 63|publisher=WWD.com|date=2011-11-05|accessdate=2011-11-14}}</ref> She operated two of her own shops in Paris, one of which was designed by her brother, Alexis.<ref name="lefigaro1"/><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.agenceberi.com/page2/page6/page29/files/page29-1000-full.html|title=Loulou de la Falaise - Paris|publisher=Agenceberi.com|accessdate=2011-11-14}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.agenceberi.com/page2/page6/page29/page29.html|title=LdF - Paris VII|publisher=Agenceberi.com|accessdate=2011-11-14}}</ref> |
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{{Persondata <!-- Metadata: see [[Wikipedia:Persondata]]. --> |
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| NAME = Falaise, Loulou de la |
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One year [[André Leon Talley|Andre León Talley]] invited her and her mother to a party celebrating the beginning of the Paris couture shows. As retold in ''[[The New Yorker]]'' by [[Hilton Als]], while the group was assembling for a photograph at the end of the party, in response from a direction by her mother about where to stand: "LouLou de La Falaise said, 'I will stand there only if André tries not to look like such a nigger dandy.' Several people laughed, loudly. None laughed louder than André Leon Talley. But it seemed to me that a couple of things happened before he started laughing: he shuttered his eyes, his grin grew larger, and his back went rigid, as he saw his belief in the durability of glamour and allure shatter before him in a million glistening bits. Talley attempted to pick those pieces up. He sighed, then stood and said, 'Come on, children. Let's ''see'' something. Let's visit the [[John Galliano|House of Galliano]].'"<ref>{{Cite magazine |last=Als |first=Hilton |date=1994-10-30 |title=The Many Worlds of André Leon Talley |url=https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/1994/11/07/andre-leon-talley-vogue-the-only-one?_sp=d087ebbd-5d90-4b98-9a08-69d2c4c6f510.1726764162171 |access-date=2024-09-19 |magazine=The New Yorker |language=en-US |issn=0028-792X}}</ref> |
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| ALTERNATIVE NAMES = |
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| SHORT DESCRIPTION = |
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==Marriages== |
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| DATE OF BIRTH = 1948 |
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On 6 October 1966, she married [[Desmond FitzGerald, 29th Knight of Glin|Desmond FitzGerald]], 29th [[Knight of Glin]] (1937–2011), an Irish nobleman. They separated the following year and divorced in 1970. Her title upon marrying the knight was Madam FitzGerald.<ref>{{cite news| url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/8769414/Desmond-FitzGerald.html | location=London | work=The Daily Telegraph | title=Desmond FitzGerald | date=16 September 2011}}</ref> |
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| PLACE OF BIRTH = |
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| DATE OF DEATH = |
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On 11 June 1977, she married Thadée Klossowski de Rola, a French writer, who is the younger son of the painter [[Balthus]] in Paris, France. She wore a harem-and-turban ensemble from Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. They had one child:<ref>{{cite news| url=http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/06/05/on-rue-st-honore-paris/ | work=The New York Times | first=Cathy | last=Horyn | title=On Rue St.-Honoré, Paris | date=5 June 2008}}</ref> Anna Klossowski de Rola, co-founder of the contemporary art collection called "MGM."<ref>{{cite news|last1=Redazione|title=Anna Klossowski|url=http://www.vogue.it/en/fashion/news/2011/05/10/anna-klossowski/|accessdate=12 August 2016|work=[[Vogue Italia|Vogue]]|publisher=Vogue Italia|date=10 May 2011}}</ref> |
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| PLACE OF DEATH = |
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==Death== |
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La Falaise died at [[Gisors]]' hospital, France, on 5 November 2011.<ref name="courrier-picard1"/> The cause was not specified, other than as the result of a "long illness".<ref name="vogue1">{{cite web|first=Cesare|last=Cunaccia|url=http://www.vogue.it/en/people-are-talking-about/last-short-notes/2011/11/loulou-de-la-falaise-dead-biography|title=Loulou de La Falaise|publisher=Vogue.it|accessdate=2011-11-14|url-status=dead|archiveurl=https://archive.today/20130219010333/http://www.vogue.it/en/people-are-talking-about/last-short-notes/2011/11/loulou-de-la-falaise-dead-biography|archivedate=19 February 2013}}</ref> An obituary published in ''[[Women's Wear Daily]]'' stated, "According to sources, de la Falaise was diagnosed with [[lung cancer]] last June, but implored intimates to keep her health a private matter".<ref name="autogenerated1"/> |
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==Ancestry== |
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{{ahnentafel |
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|1= 1. '''Louise Vava Lucia Henriette Le Bailly de La Falaise''' |
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|2= 2. Alain Le Bailly de La Falaise, Marquis de La Coudraye |
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|3= 3. [[Maxime de la Falaise|Maxime Birley]] |
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|4= 4. [[Georges de la Falaise|Louis Venant Gabriel Le Bailly de La Falaise]] |
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|5= 5. Henriette Hennessy |
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|6= 6. [[Oswald Birley|Sir Oswald Birley]] |
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|7= 7. [[Rhoda Pike]] |
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|8= 8. Gabriel César Henri Le Bailly de La Falaise, Marquis de La Coudraye |
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|9= 9. Augustine Marie Armande de Maynard de La Claye |
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|10= 10. Richard Hennessy |
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|11= 11. Martha Lucy Hennessy |
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|12= 12. Hugh Francis Birley |
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|13= 13. Elizabeth McCorquodale |
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|14= 14. Robert Pike |
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|15= 15. Catherina Henrietta Howard |
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|16= 16. Philippe Louis Venant Le Bailly de La Falaise |
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|17= 17. Antoinette Le Veneur de Beauvais |
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|18= 18. Charles Joseph August de Maynard de La Claye |
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|19= 19. Louise Marie Adélaïde de Chantreau |
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|20= 20. Auguste Hennessy |
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|21= 21. Irène d'Anthès |
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|22= 22. Frédèrick Hennessy |
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|23= 23. Julia Perkins |
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|24= 24. [[Joseph Hornby Birley]]<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.geni.com/people/Francis-Birley/6000000008873358271 | title=Francis Birley | date=11 July 2020 }}</ref> |
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|25= 25. Frances Dix |
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|26= 26. George McCorquodale |
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|27= 27. Louisa Kate Honan |
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|28= 28. Ebenezer Pike |
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|29= 29. Lydia Clibborn Pike |
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|30= 30. Lt.-Col. John Stanley Howard |
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|31= 31. Mary Louisa N. |
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}} |
}} |
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{{Birley family}} |
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{{DEFAULTSORT:Falaise, Loulou De La}} |
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[[Category:1948 births]] |
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==References== |
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[[Category:Living people]] |
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{{reflist|colwidth=30em}} |
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==Sources== |
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* {{cite web |last=Columbia |first=David Patrick |title=New Yorker Mark Birley Passes: the man who turned built-in-elegance into a centimillion dollar restaurant empire |publisher=San Francisco Sentinel |date=27 August 2007 |accessdate=2007-11-21 |url=http://www.sanfranciscosentinel.com/?p=4417}} |
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* {{cite book |last1=Petkanas |first1=Christopher |title=Loulou & Yves: the untold story of Loulou de la Falaise and the House of Saint Laurent |date=2018 |publisher=St. Martin's Press |isbn=9781250051691 |edition=First |location=New York}} |
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{{Authority control (arts)}} |
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{{DEFAULTSORT:de la Falaise, Loulou}} |
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[[Category:1947 births]] |
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[[Category:2011 deaths]] |
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[[Category:French fashion designers]] |
[[Category:French fashion designers]] |
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[[Category:French nobility]] |
[[Category:French untitled nobility]] |
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[[Category:French people of English descent]] |
[[Category:French people of English descent]] |
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[[Category:Place of birth missing]] |
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[[Category:Deaths from cancer in France]] |
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[[fr:Loulou de la Falaise]] |
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[[Category:Lycée Français de New York alumni]] |
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[[Category:Birley family]] |
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[[Category:Wives of knights]] |
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[[Category:Le Bailly de La Falaise family]] |
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[[Category:French women fashion designers]] |
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[[Category:Muses (persons)]] |
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Latest revision as of 23:52, 25 December 2024
Loulou de La Falaise | |
|---|---|
| Born | Louise Vava Lucia Henriette Le Bailly de La Falaise 4 May 1947 England |
| Died | 5 November 2011 (aged 64) Gisors, France |
| Known for | Fashion muse, designer |
| Spouses | Thadée Klossowski de Rola
(m. 1977) |
| Children | 1 |
| Parent(s) | Count Alain Le Bailly de La Falaise Maxime Birley |
Louise Vava Lucia Henriette Le Bailly de La Falaise (French pronunciation: [lu.lu də la fa.lɛz]; 4 May 1947 – 5 November 2011),[1] known as Loulou de la Falaise, was an English fashion muse and accessory and jewellery designer associated with Yves Saint Laurent.[2] Author Judith Thurman, writing in The New Yorker magazine, called La Falaise "the quintessential Rive Gauche haute bohémienne".[3]
Early life and education
[edit]Louise Vava Lucia Henriette Le Bailly de La Falaise was born on 4 May 1947[4][5] in England, the eldest child and only daughter of Alain, Count de La Falaise (1903–1977), a French writer, translator and publisher, and his second wife, the former Maxime Birley (1922–2009), an Anglo-Irish fashion model, whom photographer Cecil Beaton once told, "You are the only English woman I know who manages to be really chic in really hideous clothes".[6][7][8][9][10][11]
Three of her christening names honoured relations: Louise (her father's elder sister, who died as a teenager); Vava (one of the names of her maternal grandmother, Lady Birley); and Henriette (the name of her paternal grandmother, Henriette Hennessy, later comtesse Alain Hocquart de Turtot, a member of the Hennessy cognac family). La Falaise was allegedly baptised not with holy water but with Shocking, the scent by fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, her mother's employer.[12]
After her parents' divorce in 1950, following her mother's infidelities and a French court's declaration of her as an unfit mother, Loulou and her brother went to live with foster families until she was seven.[13][14] After that, La Falaise was enrolled in English boarding schools, and "her school holidays were shared between mother, father, and the second foster family".[14] She attended a boarding school in Switzerland as well as the Lycée Français de New York, though was expelled from each due to her rebellious nature.[15]
Family
[edit]La Falaise's maternal grandfather was portrait painter Sir Oswald Birley, and an uncle was Mark Birley (1930–2007), restaurateur and founder of the London nightclub "Annabel's". Another uncle, her father's elder brother, was Henri de La Falaise, Marquis de La Coudraye, (1898–1972), film director and third husband of American actress Gloria Swanson (1899–1983). Her paternal grandfather was a three-time French Olympic gold medallist in fencing, Louis Gabriel de La Falaise (1866–1910).[16]
Loulou de La Falaise had one sibling, Alexis Richard Dion Oswald Le Bailly de La Falaise, (1948–2004), a furniture designer, who appeared in the Andy Warhol film Tub Girls.[10][13] After the death of her uncle in 1972, her father became the Marquis de La Coudraye, as he died without issue. After her father's death in 1977, her brother assumed the title, Marquis de La Coudraye (until his death in 2004).
Her niece, Lucie Le Bailly de La Falaise (born 19 February 1973), a model, is the wife of Marlon Richards, son of Keith Richards and Anita Pallenberg. Her nephew, Daniel Le Bailly de La Falaise (born 6 September 1970), is a professional chef and food writer and the current Marquis de La Coudraye.[17][18][19]
Name
[edit]The family's actual surname is Le Bailly, though members have used Le Bailly de La Falaise, referring to an ancestral estate, since the mid 19th century; it is typically abbreviated to de La Falaise.[20][21]
Career
[edit]La Falaise moved to New York City in the late 1960s, where she briefly modelled for American Vogue before turning to design printed fabrics for Halston. Late in the decade, she worked as a junior editor at the British society magazine Queen, during which time she met Saint Laurent.[15] Eventually, she moved to Paris, where she joined his haute-couture firm in 1972. Responding to a description of her as a Saint Laurent muse in 2010, La Falaise responded, "For me, a muse is someone who looks glamorous but is quite passive, whereas I was very hard-working. I worked from 9 am to 9 pm, or even 2 am. I certainly wasn't passive."[12]
"Her official task was to bring her eccentric style to accessories and jewellery, and she duly came up with often-chunky designs incorporating large colourful stones, enamel work or rock crystal".[15] La Falaise also inspired Saint Laurent with her inventive wardrobe: "one week she was Desdemona in purple velvet flares and a crown of flowers, the next Marlene [Dietrich] with plucked crescent-shaped eyebrows".[11][14] In 2002, when Saint Laurent retired, La Falaise began producing her own clothing and jewellery designs.[22] As reported in The New York Times by fashion writer Cathy Horyn, "The clothing line captured much of her rare taste—well-cut blazers in the best English tweeds, French sailor pants in linen, striped silk blouses with cheeky black lace edging, masculine walking coats with fur linings, and gorgeous knits in perfectly chosen colors".[23]
She also designed cloisonné boxes and porcelain vases for Asiatides,[24] as well as jewellery for the boutique of the Majorelle Garden in Marrakech, Morocco.[11][25]
After more than three decades of designing jewellery and accessories for Saint Laurent, La Falaise launched her own fashion business, designing ready-to-wear, costume jewellery, and accessories, which were retailed in the U.S. as well as two Loulou de La Falaise shops in Paris.[22][23]
She sold simplified versions of her jewellery designs in a line created for the Home Shopping Network and created costume jewellery for Oscar de la Renta.[26][27] She operated two of her own shops in Paris, one of which was designed by her brother, Alexis.[22][28][29]
One year Andre León Talley invited her and her mother to a party celebrating the beginning of the Paris couture shows. As retold in The New Yorker by Hilton Als, while the group was assembling for a photograph at the end of the party, in response from a direction by her mother about where to stand: "LouLou de La Falaise said, 'I will stand there only if André tries not to look like such a nigger dandy.' Several people laughed, loudly. None laughed louder than André Leon Talley. But it seemed to me that a couple of things happened before he started laughing: he shuttered his eyes, his grin grew larger, and his back went rigid, as he saw his belief in the durability of glamour and allure shatter before him in a million glistening bits. Talley attempted to pick those pieces up. He sighed, then stood and said, 'Come on, children. Let's see something. Let's visit the House of Galliano.'"[30]
Marriages
[edit]On 6 October 1966, she married Desmond FitzGerald, 29th Knight of Glin (1937–2011), an Irish nobleman. They separated the following year and divorced in 1970. Her title upon marrying the knight was Madam FitzGerald.[31]
On 11 June 1977, she married Thadée Klossowski de Rola, a French writer, who is the younger son of the painter Balthus in Paris, France. She wore a harem-and-turban ensemble from Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. They had one child:[32] Anna Klossowski de Rola, co-founder of the contemporary art collection called "MGM."[33]
Death
[edit]La Falaise died at Gisors' hospital, France, on 5 November 2011.[1] The cause was not specified, other than as the result of a "long illness".[34] An obituary published in Women's Wear Daily stated, "According to sources, de la Falaise was diagnosed with lung cancer last June, but implored intimates to keep her health a private matter".[27]
Ancestry
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References
[edit]- ^ a b "Le Courrier picard - Loulou de la Falaise meurt chez elle - Picardie Express - Votre actualité quotidienne locale, régionale et nationale" (in French). Courrier-picard.fr. Retrieved 14 November 2011.
- ^ Dècès de Loulou de la Falaise
- ^ Thurman, Judith (1 August 2011). "In Fashion: Swann Song". The New Yorker. Retrieved 14 November 2011.
- ^ "A mix of French chic and Anglo-Irish eccentricity". The Irish Times. 8 November 2011. Retrieved 26 October 2021.
- ^ Petkanas, Christopher (17 April 2018). "The Private Worlds of Loulou de La Falaise". news.yahoo.com. Retrieved 26 October 2021.
- ^ Father as marquis noted in his obituary, published in The New York Times on 11 October 1977, accessed on 5 November 2011
- ^ Father's full name, Alain R. Le Bailly de La Falaise, is cited on his September 1946 marriage license, accessed on ancestry.com on 7 November 2011
- ^ Her father's first wife, married in 1931 and later divorced, was Margaret Webb, an American.
- ^ Alicia Drake, The Beautiful Fall (Hachette Digital, 2007), retrieved via Google Books on 7 November 2011
- ^ a b Fox, Margalit (5 May 2009). "Maxime de la Falaise, Model, Designer and Muse, Is Dead at 86". The New York Times. France. Retrieved 14 November 2011.
- ^ a b c lefigaro.fr (5 November 2011). "Le Figaro - Culture: La créatrice Loulou de la Falaise est décédée". Lefigaro.fr. Retrieved 14 November 2011.
- ^ a b Cavanagh, Alice (7 November 2011). "Loulou de la Falaise, Yves Saint Laurent's Muse, Dies at 63". The Daily Beast. Retrieved 14 November 2011.
- ^ a b Petkanas, Christopher (18 August 2010). "Lady Libertine". The New York Times. Retrieved 14 November 2011.
- ^ a b c Alicia Drake, The Beautiful Fall (Hachette Digital, 2007), retrieved via Google Books on 5 November 2011
- ^ a b c "Loulou de la Falaise". The Telegraph. London. 6 November 2011. Retrieved 14 November 2011.
- ^ "Georges de la Falaise Biography and Olympic Results". Sports-reference.com. Archived from the original on 22 June 2009. Retrieved 14 November 2011.
- ^ "18 November 2010: A French Gourmet Adventure". New York Social Diary. Retrieved 14 November 2011.
- ^ "Daniel de la Falaise's Carrot Tarragon Soup". Allthebestblog.co.uk. Archived from the original on 6 November 2011. Retrieved 14 November 2011.
- ^ "Daniel de la Falaise". Port Eliot Festival. 4 May 2011. Archived from the original on 9 November 2011. Retrieved 14 November 2011.
- ^ As Loulou de La Falaise's father's elder brother, the Marquis de Coudraye, told The New York Times (7 October 1925), "My patronymic name is Le Bailly, but... I use the name de La Falaise because it is one of the great-grandfather branches of the Le Bailly family. De La Falaise is the only existing branch of that family today. So this should be my entire name: James Henry Le Bailly de La Falaise, Marquis de La Coudraye".
- ^ The title held by the head of the family, Marquis de La Coudraye, was granted, by an 1876 act of succession, to the younger son of Pacôme-François Le Bailly, Seigneur de La Falaise, and his wife, Pauline-Louise-Victoire de Loynes, daughter of Denis, Marquis de La Coudraye.
- ^ a b c "Les fantaisies de Loulou". Madame.lefigaro.fr. 8 January 2007. Retrieved 14 November 2011.
- ^ a b Horyn, Cathy (5 November 2011). "Loulou de la Falaise, a Muse to Yves Saint Laurent, Dies at 63". Runway.blogs.nytimes.com. Retrieved 14 November 2011.
- ^ "Creativity Engine". www.asiatides.com. Archived from the original on 7 November 2011.
- ^ "En privé avec… Loulou de la Falaise". Madame.lefigaro.fr. 4 March 2011. Retrieved 14 November 2011.
- ^ "Op-Ed | Remembering Loulou de la Falaise". Businessoffashion.com. 7 November 2011. Retrieved 14 November 2011.
- ^ a b "Loulou de la Falaise, YSL Collaborator, Dies at 63". WWD.com. 5 November 2011. Retrieved 14 November 2011.
- ^ "Loulou de la Falaise - Paris". Agenceberi.com. Retrieved 14 November 2011.
- ^ "LdF - Paris VII". Agenceberi.com. Retrieved 14 November 2011.
- ^ Als, Hilton (30 October 1994). "The Many Worlds of André Leon Talley". The New Yorker. ISSN 0028-792X. Retrieved 19 September 2024.
- ^ "Desmond FitzGerald". The Daily Telegraph. London. 16 September 2011.
- ^ Horyn, Cathy (5 June 2008). "On Rue St.-Honoré, Paris". The New York Times.
- ^ Redazione (10 May 2011). "Anna Klossowski". Vogue. Vogue Italia. Retrieved 12 August 2016.
- ^ Cunaccia, Cesare. "Loulou de La Falaise". Vogue.it. Archived from the original on 19 February 2013. Retrieved 14 November 2011.
- ^ "Francis Birley". 11 July 2020.
Sources
[edit]- Columbia, David Patrick (27 August 2007). "New Yorker Mark Birley Passes: the man who turned built-in-elegance into a centimillion dollar restaurant empire". San Francisco Sentinel. Retrieved 21 November 2007.
- Petkanas, Christopher (2018). Loulou & Yves: the untold story of Loulou de la Falaise and the House of Saint Laurent (First ed.). New York: St. Martin's Press. ISBN 9781250051691.
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