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Deleted the line about Alex Honnold free-soloing this route on 60 Minutes, since this is incorrect. Honnold free-soloed the Chouinard-Herbert Route on Sentinel Rock.
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{{Short description|Big wall climbing route up Sentinel Rock, Yosemite}}
{{Infobox climbing route
{{Infobox climbing route
| Route Name = Steck-Salathé Route
| name = Steck-Salathé Route
| Photo = Sentinel Rock by Tom Frost.jpg
| photo = Sentinel Rock by Tom Frost.jpg
| photo_width = 200
| Photo size = 200px
| Caption =
| photo_caption =
| Alternate Name =
| other_name =
| Location = [[California]], [[United States|USA]]
| location = [[California]], [[United States|USA]]
| Coordinates = {{coord|37|43|44|N|119|35|40|W|type:mountain_region:US}}
| coords = {{coord|37|43|44|N|119|35|40|W|type:mountain_region:US}}
| Climbing Area = [[Yosemite Valley]]
| climbing_area = [[Yosemite Valley]]
| Route Type = [[Traditional climbing|Trad climb]]
| route_type = [[Big wall climbing]], [[Traditional climbing]]
| Vertical Gain = 1,500 feet
| vertical_gain = 1,500 feet
| Pitches = 16
| pitches = 16
| Rating = 5.9
| rating = 5.10a/b
| grade = V
| Grade = III
| route_setter =
| Route Setter =
| First Ascent = [[Allen Steck]] and [[John Salathé]], 1950.
| first_ascent = [[Allen Steck]] and [[John Salathé]], 1950.
| ffa =Steve Wunsch, Jim Erickson, 1970
| FFA =
| Fastest Ascent =
| fastest_ascent =
}}
}}
The '''Steck-Salathé Route''' is a [[big wall climbing|big wall]] [[traditional climbing]] route up [[Sentinel Rock]].


==History==
The '''Steck-Salathé Route''' is a [[rock climbing|technical climbing]] route up [[Sentinel Rock]]. The route was first climbed June 30 - July 4, 1950, by [[Allen Steck]] and [[John Salathé]], up the {{convert|1600|ft|m|-1|adj=on}} north face of Sentinel Rock in [[Yosemite Valley]].
The route was first climbed, in extremely hot weather with minimal water, from June 30 - July 4, 1950, by [[Allen Steck]] and [[John Salathé]], up the {{convert|1600|ft|m|-1|adj=on}} north face of Sentinel Rock in [[Yosemite Valley]]. They climbed mostly free using occasional direct aid pitons on some pitches, and a blank wall halfway up required a 30-foot bolt ladder. It was the longest and most difficult route in Yosemite in 1950.


The route was repeated several times in the 50s using less and less aid. In 1959, Royal Robbins and Tom Frost did it all free except for the short bolt ladder, producing the most strenuous long free climb in America, with 6 pitches of 5.10a or 5.9, and many tiring 5.8 leads.<ref>{{Cite web|title=100 Years Big Wall Free Climbing|url=https://gripped.com/news/100-years-big-wall-free-climbing/|website=Gripped.com|date=4 January 2015 }}</ref>
The route is recognized in the historic climbing text ''[[Fifty Classic Climbs of North America]]''.<ref>{{Fifty Classic Climbs}}</ref>


In 1970, Steve Wunsch and Jim Erickson discovered a long finger/hand-size crack to the left of the bolt ladder, adding yet another 5.9+ pitch, which allowed the wall to be climbed totally free.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Meyers|first=George|title=Yosemite Climbs|publisher=Chockstone Press|year=1982|isbn=0-9609452-0-2|location=Denver|pages=249}}</ref>
[[Derek Hersey]] died while free-soloing the route in 1993.

In 1973, Henry Barber made the first free solo ascent, on sight, in record time, 2 hours 45 minutes.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Meyers|first=George|title=Yosemite Climbs|publisher=Chockstone Press|year=1987|location=Denver CO|pages=History Section}}</ref>

The route is recognized in the historic climbing text ''[[Fifty Classic Climbs of North America]]''.<ref>{{Fifty Classic Climbs}}</ref> It is famous for its large cracks: out of 18 pitches, 15 feature either offwidth cracks or squeeze chimneys, including what is arguably the most famous squeeze chimney in the world, the Narrows.<ref>{{Cite web|title=100 Years Big Wall Free Climbing|url=https://www.gripped.com|website=gripped.com}}</ref>

[[Derek Hersey]] died while [[free solo climbing|free soloing]] the route in 1993. His fall from several hundred feet was suspected to be due to a slippery rock, coated with moisture.


== References ==
== References ==
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== External links ==
== External links ==

*[http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yosestec supertopo]
*[http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yosestec supertopo]
*[http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/Yosemite_N..._Park/Yosemite_Valley/Sentinel_Rock/North_wall/Steck-Salathe_1594.html rockclimbing.com]
*[http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/California/Yosemite_N..._Park/Yosemite_Valley/Sentinel_Rock/North_wall/Steck-Salathe_1594.html rockclimbing.com]
*[http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/yosemite_national_park/yosemite_valley/105862873 mountainproject.com]
*[http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/yosemite_national_park/yosemite_valley/105862873 mountainproject.com]


{{Yosemite National Park}}
⚫
[[Category:Climbing routes]]

{{DEFAULTSORT:Steck-Salathe Route (Sentinel Rock)}}
⚫
[[Category:Big wall climbing routes]]
[[Category:Yosemite National Park]]

Latest revision as of 07:00, 5 October 2024

Steck-Salathé Route
LocationCalifornia, USA
Coordinates37°43′44″N 119°35′40″W / 37.72889°N 119.59444°W / 37.72889; -119.59444
Climbing areaYosemite Valley
Route typeBig wall climbing, Traditional climbing
Vertical gain1,500 feet
Pitches16
Rating5.10a/b
GradeV
First ascentAllen Steck and John Salathé, 1950.
First free ascentSteve Wunsch, Jim Erickson, 1970

The Steck-Salathé Route is a big wall traditional climbing route up Sentinel Rock.

History

[edit]

The route was first climbed, in extremely hot weather with minimal water, from June 30 - July 4, 1950, by Allen Steck and John Salathé, up the 1,600-foot (490 m) north face of Sentinel Rock in Yosemite Valley. They climbed mostly free using occasional direct aid pitons on some pitches, and a blank wall halfway up required a 30-foot bolt ladder. It was the longest and most difficult route in Yosemite in 1950.

The route was repeated several times in the 50s using less and less aid. In 1959, Royal Robbins and Tom Frost did it all free except for the short bolt ladder, producing the most strenuous long free climb in America, with 6 pitches of 5.10a or 5.9, and many tiring 5.8 leads.[1]

In 1970, Steve Wunsch and Jim Erickson discovered a long finger/hand-size crack to the left of the bolt ladder, adding yet another 5.9+ pitch, which allowed the wall to be climbed totally free.[2]

In 1973, Henry Barber made the first free solo ascent, on sight, in record time, 2 hours 45 minutes.[3]

The route is recognized in the historic climbing text Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.[4] It is famous for its large cracks: out of 18 pitches, 15 feature either offwidth cracks or squeeze chimneys, including what is arguably the most famous squeeze chimney in the world, the Narrows.[5]

Derek Hersey died while free soloing the route in 1993. His fall from several hundred feet was suspected to be due to a slippery rock, coated with moisture.

References

[edit]
  1. ^ "100 Years Big Wall Free Climbing". Gripped.com. 4 January 2015.
  2. ^ Meyers, George (1982). Yosemite Climbs. Denver: Chockstone Press. p. 249. ISBN 0-9609452-0-2.
  3. ^ Meyers, George (1987). Yosemite Climbs. Denver CO: Chockstone Press. pp. History Section.
  4. ^ Roper, Steve; Steck, Allen (1979). Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books. ISBN 0-87156-292-8.
  5. ^ "100 Years Big Wall Free Climbing". gripped.com.
[edit]
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