Pešter: Difference between revisions
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{{short description|Geographic feature in Serbia}} |
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{{Infobox mountain |
{{Infobox mountain |
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| name = Pešter |
| name = Pešter |
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| other_name = Пештер |
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| photo = Sandzak_Landscape.JPG |
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| photo = Pešter.jpg |
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| photo_caption = |
| photo_caption = |
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| elevation_m = 1492 |
| elevation_m = 1492 |
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| elevation_ref = <ref>[http://www.panacomp.net/content/view/34/139/lang,english/ Mountains in Serbia]</ref> |
| elevation_ref = <ref>[http://www.panacomp.net/content/view/34/139/lang,english/ Mountains in Serbia] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100606081047/http://www.panacomp.net/content/view/34/139/lang,english/ |date=2010-06-06 }}</ref> |
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| prominence_m = |
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| location = [[Serbia]] |
| location = [[Serbia]] |
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| range = |
| range = |
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| coordinates = {{coord|43.051166|N|20.055833|E|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}} |
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| lat_d = 43.051166 |
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| long_d = 20.055833 |
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| coordinates = |
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| type = |
| type = |
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| first_ascent = |
| first_ascent = |
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| easiest_route = |
| easiest_route = |
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| embedded = {{Designation list |
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| embed = yes |
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| designation1 = Ramsar |
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| designation1_offname = Pestersko polje |
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| designation1_date = 19 March 2006 |
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| designation1_number = 1656<ref>{{Cite web|title=Pestersko polje|website=[[Ramsar Convention|Ramsar]] Sites Information Service|url=https://rsis.ramsar.org/ris/1656|accessdate=25 April 2018}}</ref>}} |
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'''Pešter''' or ''' |
The '''Pešter Plateau''' ({{langx|sr|Пештерска висораван|Pešterska visoravan}}; {{langx|sq|Rrafshnalta e Peshterit}}), or simply '''Pešter''' ({{lang-sr-Cyrl|Пештер}}, {{IPA|sh|pɛ̌ʃtɛr|pron}}; {{langx|sq|Peshter}}), is a [[karst]] [[plateau]] in southwestern [[Serbia]], in the [[Raška (region)|Raška]] (or [[Sandžak]]) region. |
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It lies at an [[altitude]] of {{convert|1150|–|1492|m|ft}}, with the highest point (''Kuljarski vrh'') at 1,492 meters. The territory of the plateau is mostly located in the municipality of [[Sjenica]], with parts belonging to [[Novi Pazar]] and [[Tutin, Serbia|Tutin]]. |
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==Name== |
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The soil is mostly [[karst]] interspersed with [[pasture]]s. Economy of the area relies primarily on cattle breeding, chiefly [[sheep]]. Pešter is famous for its [[dairy product]]s, especially the "Sjenica cheese" (''Sjenički sir''), as well as [[Lamb and mutton|lamb]] and [[prosciutto]].<ref name=tourism/> The plateau is sparsely populated: most settlements are on the edge of the field, and the remainder is settled only during summer months.<ref name=sjenica/> |
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The name of the region comes from the common [[Slavic languages|Slavic]] word {{langx|cu|пещера|peštera}}, meaning "[[cave]]". |
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In the speech of people native to the area, the original feminine [[grammatical gender|gender]] of the word is preserved despite the loss of the ''-a'' ending (nominative ''Pešter'', genitive and locative ''Pešteri''), but in standard Serbian the gender is masculine (nominative ''Pešter'', genitive ''Peštera'', locative ''Pešteru'').<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.portalnovosti.com/pester-i-velez|author=Sinan Gudžević|title=Pešter i Velež|accessdate=19 August 2020|publisher=[[Novosti (Croatia)]]|language=sh}}</ref> |
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⚫ | Pešter is famous for its microclimate, which is particularly harsh in the winter months. The lowest temperature in Serbia since measurements |
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==Geography== |
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[[File:Afternoon landscape with sheep and shepherds at the Pester Plateau in Serbia.jpg|thumb|right|250px|Pešter Plateau landscape with cattle]] |
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The plateau is actually a large field (''Peštersko polje'') surrounded by the mountains of [[Jadovnik]] (1734 m), [[Zlatar (mountain)|Zlatar]] (1627 m), [[Ozren (Pešter)|Ozren]] (1693 m), [[Giljeva]] (1617 m), [[Javor (western Serbia)|Javor]] (1519 m), [[Golija]] (1833 m), [[Žilindar]] (1616 m), [[Hum (Pešter)|Hum]] (1756 m), [[Ninaja]] (1462 m) and [[Jarut]] (1428 m). |
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⚫ | With an area of around 50 km<sup>2</sup>, the Pešter field is the largest field in Serbia, and the highest one in the [[Balkans]].<ref name="sjenica">{{cite web | url = http://www.opstinasjenica.co.rs/?link=o_sjenici/priroda.php | title = Prirodni resursi | publisher = Official web site of municipality of Sjenica | language = Serbian | accessdate = 2010-12-02 | url-status = dead | archiveurl = https://web.archive.org/web/20100626003246/http://www.opstinasjenica.co.rs/?link=o_sjenici%2Fpriroda.php | archivedate = 2010-06-26 }}</ref> The rivers of [[Uvac]], Vapa, [[Jablanica River (Sjenica)|Jablanica]] and [[Grabovica (Vapa)|Grabovica]] flow through this plateau.<ref name="tourism">{{cite web|url=http://www.serbia-tourism.org/srpski/tekst.php?podaci=planine.txt&gde=sje|title=Sjenica-Pešter|publisher=Tourist organization of Serbia|access-date=2007-07-26|language=Serbian |archiveurl = https://web.archive.org/web/20071006121559/http://www.serbia-tourism.org/srpski/tekst.php?podaci=planine.txt&gde=sje |archive-date = 2007-10-06}}</ref> |
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In the geologic past, the field was a large lake, of which only a small remnant in [[Sjenica]] near the village of [[Tuzinje]] remains.<ref name="sjenica" /> This lake gradually drained through [[karst]] ruptures, leaving marshy remnants in the lowest parts, around the flow of the [[sinking river]] Boroštica.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.srbija.travel/priroda/ramsarska-podrucja/pestersko-polje/ |title=Peštersko polje |publisher=Serbian Tourist Organization |url-status=dead |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20120910150432/http://www.srbija.travel/priroda/ramsarska-podrucja/pestersko-polje/ |archivedate=2012-09-10 }}</ref> Those areas are home to a wet peat [[bog]] habitat that is unique for a karst area. The soil is mostly karst interspersed with [[pasture]]s. The economy of the area relies primarily on livestock breeding, chiefly of [[sheep]]. Pešter is famous for its [[dairy product]]s, especially the "Sjenica cheese" (''Sjenički sir''), as well as [[Lamb and mutton|lamb]] and [[prosciutto|pršut (or prosciutto)]].<ref name="tourism" /> |
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⚫ | The plateau is sparsely populated: most settlements are on the edge of the field, and the remainder is settled only during the summer months.<ref name="sjenica" /> Pešter is famous for its microclimate, which is particularly harsh in the winter months, and due to this, it is often called the "Siberia of Sandžak". The lowest temperature in Serbia since measurements have been recorded, {{convert|-39.|°C|°F}}, was measured at [[Karajukića Bunari]] village on 26 January 2006, beating the previous record of {{convert|-38.4|°C|°F}} measured in [[Sjenica]] in 1954.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://arhiva.glas-javnosti.rs/arhiva/2006/01/27/srpski/D06012603.shtml|title=Minus 39, oboren rekord|date=2006-01-27|accessdate=2007-07-26|publisher=[[Glas Javnosti]]|language=Serbian}}</ref> |
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⚫ | On 1 May 2006, [[Ramsar Convention|Ramsar]] included the Pešter wetland area of 3,455 [[hectare]]s into its [[list of Ramsar sites|list of wetlands of international importance]].<ref name="Ramsar">{{cite web|url=http://www.ramsar.org/profile/profiles_serbia.htm|title=The Annotated Ramsar List: Republic of Serbia|publisher=[[Ramsar Convention]]|accessdate=2007-07-26 |archiveurl = https://web.archive.org/web/20070715195730/http://www.ramsar.org/profile/profiles_serbia.htm <!-- Bot retrieved archive --> |archivedate = 2007-07-15}}</ref> Pešter is home to a number of endangered plant species, such as ''[[Fumana bonapartei]]'', ''[[Halacsya sendtneri]]'', and ''[[Orchis tridentata]]''. The only nesting place of [[Montagu's harrier]] in Serbia is also in this area.<ref name="Ramsar" /> |
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==History== |
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In this region, few, if any, descendants of the original inhabitants who lived in the Pešter area before the 17th century remain. During the 18th century, the population structure underwent significant changes. Turbulent historical events led to the departure of the indigenous population, making way for new settlers.<ref name="VePo168">{{cite journal |last=Velović Popović |first=Bojana M. |year=2021 |title=Морфолошке одлике глаголских облика говора Тутина, Новог Пазара и Сјенице |trans-title=Morphological features of verb forms in speech from Tutin, Novi Pazar and Sjenica |url=https://dais.sanu.ac.rs/bitstream/handle/123456789/12761/veljovic.tutin.2021.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y |journal=Српски дијалектолошки зборник |issue=68 |pages=197–199 |doi=}}</ref> In 1700 the [[High Porte|High Porte of the Ottoman Empire]] instructed the Pasha of Peja to pacify [[Rugova (region)|Rugova]], resulting in 274 families being displaced from Rugova to Pešter.<ref>{{Citation |last= Rahimi|first= Shukri|title= Rugova-Monografi etnografike (E kaluara historike e Rugovës)|year= 1987|publisher= Akademia e Shkencave dhe e Arteve të Kosovës (Seksioni i Shkencave Shoqërore)|location=Prishtinë, Kosovë|page=16 }}</ref> At that time, some members of the [[Shkreli (tribe)|Shkreli]] and [[Kelmendi (tribe)|Kelmendi]] began migrating into the Pešter region. |
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The Kelmendi chief had converted to Islam and promised to convert his fellow tribe members as well. A total of 251 Kelmendi households (1,987 people) were resettled in the Pešter area on that occasion; however, five years later, the exiled Kelmendi managed to fight their way back to their homeland, and in 1711 they sent out a large raiding force to bring back some others from the Pešter region as well.{{sfn|Elsie|2015|p=32}} The remaining Kelmendi and Shkreli converted to Islam and became [[Slavic languages|Slavophones]] by the 20th century, and as of today they now self-identify as part of the [[Bosniaks|Bosniak]] ethnicity, although in the Pešter plateau they partly utilized the [[Albanian language]] until the middle of the 20th century, particularly in the villages of [[Ugao]], [[Boroštica]], [[Doliće (Sjenica)|Doliće]] and [[Gradac (Sjenica)|Gradac]].<ref name="Elsie2015">{{cite book|first=Robert |last=Elsie|title=The Tribes of Albania: History, Society and Culture|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-EzWCQAAQBAJ&pg=PA81|date=30 May 2015|publisher=I.B.Tauris|isbn=978-1-78453-401-1|pages=81}}</ref> Catholic Albanian groups which settled in the early 18th century were converted to Islam in that period. Their descendants make up the large majority of the population of the Pešter plateau.<ref name="VePo168" /> |
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⚫ | Factors such as some intermarriage undertaken by two generations with the surrounding Bosniak population along with the difficult circumstances of the [[Yugoslav Wars]] during the 1990s made the local Albanians opt to refer to themselves in censuses as ''Bosniaks'', in order to avoid persecution by the Serb-dominated government.<ref name="Pieroni">Andrea Pieroni, Maria Elena Giusti, & Cassandra L. Quave (2011). "[https://www.researchgate.net/publication/225732430_Cross-Cultural_Ethnobiology_in_the_Western_Balkans_Medical_Ethnobotany_and_Ethnozoology_Among_Albanians_and_Serbs_in_the_Pester_Plateau_Sandzak_South-Western_Serbia Cross-cultural ethnobiology in the Western Balkans: medical ethnobotany and ethnozoology among Albanians and Serbs in the Pešter Plateau, Sandžak, South-Western Serbia.]" ''Human Ecology''. '''39'''. (3): 335. "The current population of the Albanian villages is partly "bosniakicised", since in the last two generations a number of Albanian males began to intermarry with (Muslim) Bosniak women of Pešter. This is one of the reasons why locals in Ugao were declared to be "Bosniaks" in the last census of 2002, or, in Boroštica, to be simply "Muslims", and in both cases abandoning the previous ethnic label of "Albanians", which these villages used in the census conducted during "Yugoslavian" times. A number of our informants confirmed that the self-attribution "Albanian" was purposely abandoned in order to avoid problems following the Yugoslav Wars and associated violent incursions of Serbian para-military forces in the area. The oldest generation of the villagers however are still fluent in a dialect of Ghegh Albanian, which appears to have been neglected by European linguists thus far. Additionally, the presence of an Albanian minority in this area has never been brought to the attention of international stakeholders by either the former Yugoslav or the current Serbian authorities."</ref> Shkrelis continued to migrate from Rugova to the territory of Pešter until the 19th century.<ref>{{cite book | title=Glasnik Etnografskog instituta | publisher=Naučno delo | year=1980 | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=7qYWAQAAMAAJ&q=%D1%88%D0%BA%D1%80%D0%B8%D1%98%D0%B5%D1%99%D0%B5 | page=74 | volume=20}}</ref> |
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<gallery> |
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Pester plateau in Serbia - 0855.jpg| |
Pester plateau in Serbia - 0855.jpg| |
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==References== |
==References== |
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{{ |
{{Reflist}} |
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==External links== |
==External links== |
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*[http://ciklonaut.com/Turoteka/2000/Jone_leto00/02_pester.htm Ivanjica - Golija - Pešterska visoravan - Moravac] – a hiking tour through Pešter and Golija {{ |
*[http://ciklonaut.com/Turoteka/2000/Jone_leto00/02_pester.htm Ivanjica - Golija - Pešterska visoravan - Moravac] – a hiking tour through Pešter and Golija {{in lang|sr}} |
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* [http://www.natureprotection.org.rs/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=144%3A2009-08-09-20-03-11&catid=73%3A2009-08-09-20-12-45&lang=sr Rezervati prirode - Peštersko polje] at the Institute for Nature Conservation of Serbia |
* [http://www.natureprotection.org.rs/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=144%3A2009-08-09-20-03-11&catid=73%3A2009-08-09-20-12-45&lang=sr Rezervati prirode - Peštersko polje] at the Institute for Nature Conservation of Serbia |
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{{Geographical regions of Serbia}} |
{{Geographical regions of Serbia}}{{Sandžak Albanians}}{{Authority control}} |
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{{DEFAULTSORT:Pester}} |
{{DEFAULTSORT:Pester}} |
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[[Category:Sandžak]] |
[[Category:Sandžak]] |
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[[Category:Ramsar sites in Serbia]] |
[[Category:Ramsar sites in Serbia]] |
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[[Category:Sjenica]] |
[[Category:Sjenica]] |
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[[Category:Novi Pazar]] |
[[Category:Novi Pazar]] |
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[[Category:Tutin]] |
[[Category:Tutin, Serbia]] |
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[[Category:Geographical regions of Serbia]] |
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[[Category:Geography of Šumadija and Western Serbia]] |
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[[Category:Albanian communities in Serbia]] |
Latest revision as of 20:08, 6 December 2024
Pešter | |
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Пештер | |
Highest point | |
Elevation | 1,492 m (4,895 ft)[1] |
Coordinates | 43°03′04″N 20°03′21″E / 43.051166°N 20.055833°E |
Geography | |
Official name | Pestersko polje |
Designated | 19 March 2006 |
Reference no. | 1656[2] |
The Pešter Plateau (Serbian: Пештерска висораван, romanized: Pešterska visoravan; Albanian: Rrafshnalta e Peshterit), or simply Pešter (Serbian Cyrillic: Пештер, pronounced [pɛ̌ʃtɛr]; Albanian: Peshter), is a karst plateau in southwestern Serbia, in the Raška (or Sandžak) region.
It lies at an altitude of 1,150–1,492 metres (3,773–4,895 ft), with the highest point (Kuljarski vrh) at 1,492 meters. The territory of the plateau is mostly located in the municipality of Sjenica, with parts belonging to Novi Pazar and Tutin.
Name
[edit]The name of the region comes from the common Slavic word Church Slavonic: пещера, romanized: peštera, meaning "cave".
In the speech of people native to the area, the original feminine gender of the word is preserved despite the loss of the -a ending (nominative Pešter, genitive and locative Pešteri), but in standard Serbian the gender is masculine (nominative Pešter, genitive Peštera, locative Pešteru).[3]
Geography
[edit]The plateau is actually a large field (Peštersko polje) surrounded by the mountains of Jadovnik (1734 m), Zlatar (1627 m), Ozren (1693 m), Giljeva (1617 m), Javor (1519 m), Golija (1833 m), Žilindar (1616 m), Hum (1756 m), Ninaja (1462 m) and Jarut (1428 m).
With an area of around 50 km2, the Pešter field is the largest field in Serbia, and the highest one in the Balkans.[4] The rivers of Uvac, Vapa, Jablanica and Grabovica flow through this plateau.[5]
In the geologic past, the field was a large lake, of which only a small remnant in Sjenica near the village of Tuzinje remains.[4] This lake gradually drained through karst ruptures, leaving marshy remnants in the lowest parts, around the flow of the sinking river Boroštica.[6] Those areas are home to a wet peat bog habitat that is unique for a karst area. The soil is mostly karst interspersed with pastures. The economy of the area relies primarily on livestock breeding, chiefly of sheep. Pešter is famous for its dairy products, especially the "Sjenica cheese" (Sjenički sir), as well as lamb and pršut (or prosciutto).[5]
The plateau is sparsely populated: most settlements are on the edge of the field, and the remainder is settled only during the summer months.[4] Pešter is famous for its microclimate, which is particularly harsh in the winter months, and due to this, it is often called the "Siberia of Sandžak". The lowest temperature in Serbia since measurements have been recorded, −39 °C (−38 °F), was measured at Karajukića Bunari village on 26 January 2006, beating the previous record of −38.4 °C (−37.1 °F) measured in Sjenica in 1954.[7]
On 1 May 2006, Ramsar included the Pešter wetland area of 3,455 hectares into its list of wetlands of international importance.[8] Pešter is home to a number of endangered plant species, such as Fumana bonapartei, Halacsya sendtneri, and Orchis tridentata. The only nesting place of Montagu's harrier in Serbia is also in this area.[8]
History
[edit]In this region, few, if any, descendants of the original inhabitants who lived in the Pešter area before the 17th century remain. During the 18th century, the population structure underwent significant changes. Turbulent historical events led to the departure of the indigenous population, making way for new settlers.[9] In 1700 the High Porte of the Ottoman Empire instructed the Pasha of Peja to pacify Rugova, resulting in 274 families being displaced from Rugova to Pešter.[10] At that time, some members of the Shkreli and Kelmendi began migrating into the Pešter region.
The Kelmendi chief had converted to Islam and promised to convert his fellow tribe members as well. A total of 251 Kelmendi households (1,987 people) were resettled in the Pešter area on that occasion; however, five years later, the exiled Kelmendi managed to fight their way back to their homeland, and in 1711 they sent out a large raiding force to bring back some others from the Pešter region as well.[11] The remaining Kelmendi and Shkreli converted to Islam and became Slavophones by the 20th century, and as of today they now self-identify as part of the Bosniak ethnicity, although in the Pešter plateau they partly utilized the Albanian language until the middle of the 20th century, particularly in the villages of Ugao, Boroštica, Doliće and Gradac.[12] Catholic Albanian groups which settled in the early 18th century were converted to Islam in that period. Their descendants make up the large majority of the population of the Pešter plateau.[9]
Factors such as some intermarriage undertaken by two generations with the surrounding Bosniak population along with the difficult circumstances of the Yugoslav Wars during the 1990s made the local Albanians opt to refer to themselves in censuses as Bosniaks, in order to avoid persecution by the Serb-dominated government.[13] Shkrelis continued to migrate from Rugova to the territory of Pešter until the 19th century.[14]
Gallery
[edit]See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ Mountains in Serbia Archived 2010-06-06 at the Wayback Machine
- ^ "Pestersko polje". Ramsar Sites Information Service. Retrieved 25 April 2018.
- ^ Sinan Gudžević. "Pešter i Velež" (in Serbo-Croatian). Novosti (Croatia). Retrieved 19 August 2020.
- ^ a b c "Prirodni resursi" (in Serbian). Official web site of municipality of Sjenica. Archived from the original on 2010-06-26. Retrieved 2010-12-02.
- ^ a b "Sjenica-Pešter" (in Serbian). Tourist organization of Serbia. Archived from the original on 2007-10-06. Retrieved 2007-07-26.
- ^ "Peštersko polje". Serbian Tourist Organization. Archived from the original on 2012-09-10.
- ^ "Minus 39, oboren rekord" (in Serbian). Glas Javnosti. 2006-01-27. Retrieved 2007-07-26.
- ^ a b "The Annotated Ramsar List: Republic of Serbia". Ramsar Convention. Archived from the original on 2007-07-15. Retrieved 2007-07-26.
- ^ a b Velović Popović, Bojana M. (2021). "Морфолошке одлике глаголских облика говора Тутина, Новог Пазара и Сјенице" [Morphological features of verb forms in speech from Tutin, Novi Pazar and Sjenica] (PDF). Српски дијалектолошки зборник (68): 197–199.
- ^ Rahimi, Shukri (1987), Rugova-Monografi etnografike (E kaluara historike e Rugovës), Prishtinë, Kosovë: Akademia e Shkencave dhe e Arteve të Kosovës (Seksioni i Shkencave Shoqërore), p. 16
- ^ Elsie 2015, p. 32.
- ^ Elsie, Robert (30 May 2015). The Tribes of Albania: History, Society and Culture. I.B.Tauris. p. 81. ISBN 978-1-78453-401-1.
- ^ Andrea Pieroni, Maria Elena Giusti, & Cassandra L. Quave (2011). "Cross-cultural ethnobiology in the Western Balkans: medical ethnobotany and ethnozoology among Albanians and Serbs in the Pešter Plateau, Sandžak, South-Western Serbia." Human Ecology. 39. (3): 335. "The current population of the Albanian villages is partly "bosniakicised", since in the last two generations a number of Albanian males began to intermarry with (Muslim) Bosniak women of Pešter. This is one of the reasons why locals in Ugao were declared to be "Bosniaks" in the last census of 2002, or, in Boroštica, to be simply "Muslims", and in both cases abandoning the previous ethnic label of "Albanians", which these villages used in the census conducted during "Yugoslavian" times. A number of our informants confirmed that the self-attribution "Albanian" was purposely abandoned in order to avoid problems following the Yugoslav Wars and associated violent incursions of Serbian para-military forces in the area. The oldest generation of the villagers however are still fluent in a dialect of Ghegh Albanian, which appears to have been neglected by European linguists thus far. Additionally, the presence of an Albanian minority in this area has never been brought to the attention of international stakeholders by either the former Yugoslav or the current Serbian authorities."
- ^ Glasnik Etnografskog instituta. Vol. 20. Naučno delo. 1980. p. 74.
External links
[edit]- Ivanjica - Golija - Pešterska visoravan - Moravac – a hiking tour through Pešter and Golija (in Serbian)
- Rezervati prirode - Peštersko polje at the Institute for Nature Conservation of Serbia