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{{Short description|Traditional German headwear}}
{{Expand German|topic=cult|date=June 2019}}
{{italic title}}
{{italic title}}
[[File:Schwarzwaelderin in Tracht um 1900.jpg|thumb|Woman in the Black Forest, around 1900]]
[[File:Schwarzwaelderin in Tracht um 1900.jpg|thumb|Woman in the Black Forest, around 1900]]
[[File:Lallemand et Hart N° 46 Gemeinde Gutach 1864 02.jpg|thumb|Ludovico Wolfgang Hart, ''Three Girls of Gutach'', 1864]]
[[File:Théodore Valerio Hornberg.jpg|thumb|Woman from Hornberg in 1841]]
[[File:Théodore Valerio Hornberg.jpg|thumb|Théodore Valerio, ''Couple of Hornberg'', 1841]]


A '''Bollenhut''' is a formal headdress worn since about {{circa}}1750 by Protestant women as part of their local costume or ''[[Tracht]]'' in the three neighbouring [[Black Forest]] villages of [[Gutach (Schwarzwaldbahn)|Gutach]], [[Kirnbach (Wolfach)|Kirnbach]] and [[Reichenbach (Hornberg)|Hornberg-Reichenbach]]. With its woollen [[pompom]]s, the picturesque-looking red ''Bollenhut'' has become a symbol of the [[Black Forest]] as a whole, despite its very local origins. The red pom-poms and white brim of the ''Bollenhut'' also is said to have inspired the top layer of the [[Black Forest Cake]].<ref>http://sweets.seriouseats.com/2014/01/know-your-sweets-black-forest-cake.html</ref>
A '''{{lang|de|Bollenhut}}''' ({{IPA|de|ˈbɔlənˌhuːt|lang}}, literally "ball-hat") is a formal headdress with distinctive woollen [[pompom]]s worn since {{circa|1750}} by Protestant women as part of their folk costume or {{lang|de|[[Tracht]]}} in the three adjoining [[Black Forest]] villages of [[Gutach (Schwarzwaldbahn)|Gutach]], [[Kirnbach (Wolfach)|Kirnbach]] and [[Reichenbach (Hornberg)|Hornberg-Reichenbach]]. The picturesque-looking red {{lang|de|bollenhut}} has become a symbol of the [[Black Forest]] as a whole, despite its rather local origins. The red pom-poms and white brim of the {{lang|de|bollenhut}} also is said to have inspired the top layer of the [[Black Forest Cake]].<ref>Sarah Baird, [http://sweets.seriouseats.com/2014/01/know-your-sweets-black-forest-cake.html "Know Your Sweets: Black Forest Cake"]. ''Serious Eats''. Aug. 09, 2018</ref>


== Bollenhut as part of folk costume ==
== Bollenhut as part of folk costume ==
The broad-brimmed, whitewashed straw hat bears 14 prominent, woollen, pompoms arranged in the shape of a cross. Only eleven pompoms are visible, however, because three are covered by those on top. Spinsters wear red pompoms, married women wear black. The ''Bollenhut'' can weigh up to 2 kilogrammes and is manufactured by female [[milliner]]s. The red ''Bollenhut'' may first be worn by girls at their [[confirmation]].
The broad-brimmed, whitewashed straw hat bears 14 prominent woolen pompoms arranged in the shape of a cross. Only eleven pompoms are visible, however, because three are covered by those on top. Unmarried women wear red pompoms, married women wear black, old women and widows wear only the mob cap. The original ''Bollenhut'', which weighed about 500 grams, can now weigh up to {{convert|2|kg|lb}} and is manufactured by female [[milliner]]s. The red ''Bollenhut'' may first be worn by girls at their [[confirmation]]. It has five different sizes.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Marx |first=Katja |date=5 March 1993 |orig-date= |title=Mit roten Kugeln - Der Schwarzwälder Bollenhut ist in Gefahr |url=http://www.zeit.de/1993/10/mit-roten-kugeln |access-date=2023-10-22 |website=DIE ZEIT |publication-date=}}</ref>


A silk [[mob cap]] is worn underneath the ''Bollenhut'', tied under the chin. Young girls before [[confirmation]] (Gutach and several neighbouring parishes were part of [[Württemberg]] until 1804 and were [[Evangelical]], unlike the majority of the Black Forest) and old women only wore the mob cap.
A silk [[mob cap]] is worn underneath the ''Bollenhut'', tied under the chin. Young girls before [[confirmation]] (Gutach and other parishes in vicinage were part of [[Württemberg]] until 1804 and were [[Protestant]], unlike the majority of the Black Forest) and old women wore only the mob cap.


Today the ''Bollenhut'' and associated ''Tracht'' are still worn on holidays and for traditional events. The ''Bollenhut'' and local costumes may be seen all year round e.g. in the [[Black Forest Costume Museum]] in [[Haslach im Kinzigtal]].
Today the ''Bollenhut'' and associated ''Tracht'' are still worn on holidays and for traditional events. The ''Bollenhut'' and local costumes may be seen all year round e.g. in the [[Black Forest Costume Museum]] in [[Haslach im Kinzigtal]].


== Development as a Black Forest symbol ==
== Development as a Black Forest symbol ==
In the late 18th century, apart from several mob caps, the ''[[Schühut]]'' and ''[[Gupfhut]]'', which were customary in the County of Hauenstein, were associated with the Black Forest ''Tracht''. These types of hats which were known Europe-wide gradually fell out of use by the middle of the 19th century. In 1841 following a study trip through the Black Forest, Théodore Valerio published, through the Fréres Gihaut in Paris, a [[lithograph]] of a couple from [[Hornberg]] wearing their local costume, which showed an early version of the ''Bollenhut'' for the first time in France. After Gutach was connected to the [[Black Forest Railway (Baden)|Baden Black Forest Railway]] in 1873, artists like [[Wilhelm Hasemann]], [[Curt Liebich]] and [[Fritz Reiss]] settled there, forming the "Gutach artists' colony". They portrayed the Gutach costume as an artistic subject, their works were widely distributed and shaped the image of the Black Forest. Like local author, Heinrich Hansjakob, they were part of a movement of Baden folk costume. At the turn of the 20th century, particularly Hasemann's painting, ''After Going To Church'' which showed ''Bollenhut'' wearers, was widely publicized in illustrated magazines and picture postcards.<ref>Brigitte Heck: ''Ein Hut macht Karriere.''. In: Badisches Landesmuseum Karlsruhe (publ.): ''Baden! 900 Jahre – Geschichten eines Landes.'' Info-Verlag, Karlsruhe, 2012, ISBN 978-3-937345-56-7, p. 256 (Katalog zur Großen Landesausstellung)</ref>
[[File:Bollenhut-Gutach.jpg|thumb|left|Staff wearing bollenhuts at an outdoor museum in Gutach, [[Black Forest]]]] In the late 18th century, apart from several mob caps, the ''{{ill|Schühut|de}}'' and ''Gupfhut'', which were customary in the County of Hauenstein, were associated with the folk costume of the Black Forest. These types of hats which were known throughout Europe gradually fell out of use by the middle of the 19th century. In 1841 following a study trip through the Black Forest, Théodore Valerio published, through the Frères Gihaut in Paris, a [[lithograph]] of a couple from [[Hornberg]] wearing their local costume, which showed an early version of the ''Bollenhut'' for the first time in France. After Gutach was connected to the [[Black Forest Railway (Baden)|Baden Black Forest Railway]] in 1873, artists like [[Wilhelm Hasemann]], [[Curt Liebich]] and [[Fritz Reiss]] settled there, forming the "Gutach artists' colony". They portrayed the Gutach costume as an artistic subject, their works were widely distributed and shaped the image of the Black Forest. Like local author, [[Heinrich Hansjakob]], they were part of a movement of Baden folk costume. At the turn of the 20th century, particularly Hasemann's painting, ''After Going To Church'' which showed ''Bollenhut'' wearers, was widely publicized in illustrated magazines and picture postcards.<ref>Brigitte Heck: ''Ein Hut macht Karriere.''. In: Badisches Landesmuseum Karlsruhe (publ.): ''Baden! 900 Jahre – Geschichten eines Landes.'' Info-Verlag, Karlsruhe, 2012, {{ISBN|978-3-937345-56-7}}, p. 256 (Katalog zur Großen Landesausstellung)</ref>


The fame of the ''Bollenhut'' as (wrongly) generally typical of the Black Forest rose as a result of films of local life (''Heimatfilme'') in the 1950s and 1960s, particularly the 1950 film, ''[[The Black Forest Girl (1950 film)|The Black Forest Girl]]'' (''Schwarzwaldmädel''), with [[Sonja Ziemann]]. This first German colour film of the post war period is one of the most successful German films of all time with an estimated 15 million viewers.
The fame of the ''Bollenhut'' as (wrongly) generally typical of the Black Forest rose as a result of films of local life (''Heimatfilme'') in the 1950s and 1960s, particularly the 1950 film, ''[[The Black Forest Girl (1950 film)|The Black Forest Girl]]'' (''Schwarzwaldmädel''), with [[Sonja Ziemann]]. This first German [[color film]] of the [[Aftermath of World War II#Germany|postwar period]] is one of the most successful German films of all time with an estimated 15 million viewers.

==See also==
*[[Black Forest]]
*[[Tracht]]


== References ==
== References ==
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== External links ==
== External links ==
{{commons category|Bollenhut}}
{{Commonscat}}
{{Wiktionary|Bollenhut}}
{{Wiktionary|Bollenhut}}
*[http://www.zum.de/Faecher/G/BW/Landeskunde/rhein/volkskunde/trachten/haslachfr.htm Haslach Trachten Museum]
*[http://www.zum.de/Faecher/G/BW/Landeskunde/rhein/volkskunde/trachten/haslachfr.htm Haslach Trachten Museum]
*[http://www.mtv-reichenbach.de Reichenbach Music and Trachten Club with organisational Bollenhut Tracht]
*[https://web.archive.org/web/20181117054725/http://www.mtv-reichenbach.de/ Reichenbach Music and Trachten Club with organized Bollenhut Tracht wearing]


[[Category:Hats]]
[[Category:Hats]]
[[Category:National costume]]
[[Category:Folk costumes]]
[[Category:Ortenaukreis]]
[[Category:Ortenaukreis]]
[[Category:Black Forest]]
[[Category:Black Forest]]
[[Category:German clothing]]

Latest revision as of 19:25, 18 November 2024

Woman in the Black Forest, around 1900
Ludovico Wolfgang Hart, Three Girls of Gutach, 1864
Théodore Valerio, Couple of Hornberg, 1841

A Bollenhut (German: [ˈbɔlənˌhuːt], literally "ball-hat") is a formal headdress with distinctive woollen pompoms worn since c. 1750 by Protestant women as part of their folk costume or Tracht in the three adjoining Black Forest villages of Gutach, Kirnbach and Hornberg-Reichenbach. The picturesque-looking red bollenhut has become a symbol of the Black Forest as a whole, despite its rather local origins. The red pom-poms and white brim of the bollenhut also is said to have inspired the top layer of the Black Forest Cake.[1]

Bollenhut as part of folk costume

[edit]

The broad-brimmed, whitewashed straw hat bears 14 prominent woolen pompoms arranged in the shape of a cross. Only eleven pompoms are visible, however, because three are covered by those on top. Unmarried women wear red pompoms, married women wear black, old women and widows wear only the mob cap. The original Bollenhut, which weighed about 500 grams, can now weigh up to 2 kilograms (4.4 lb) and is manufactured by female milliners. The red Bollenhut may first be worn by girls at their confirmation. It has five different sizes.[2]

A silk mob cap is worn underneath the Bollenhut, tied under the chin. Young girls before confirmation (Gutach and other parishes in vicinage were part of Württemberg until 1804 and were Protestant, unlike the majority of the Black Forest) and old women wore only the mob cap.

Today the Bollenhut and associated Tracht are still worn on holidays and for traditional events. The Bollenhut and local costumes may be seen all year round e.g. in the Black Forest Costume Museum in Haslach im Kinzigtal.

Development as a Black Forest symbol

[edit]
Staff wearing bollenhuts at an outdoor museum in Gutach, Black Forest

In the late 18th century, apart from several mob caps, the Schühut [de] and Gupfhut, which were customary in the County of Hauenstein, were associated with the folk costume of the Black Forest. These types of hats which were known throughout Europe gradually fell out of use by the middle of the 19th century. In 1841 following a study trip through the Black Forest, Théodore Valerio published, through the Frères Gihaut in Paris, a lithograph of a couple from Hornberg wearing their local costume, which showed an early version of the Bollenhut for the first time in France. After Gutach was connected to the Baden Black Forest Railway in 1873, artists like Wilhelm Hasemann, Curt Liebich and Fritz Reiss settled there, forming the "Gutach artists' colony". They portrayed the Gutach costume as an artistic subject, their works were widely distributed and shaped the image of the Black Forest. Like local author, Heinrich Hansjakob, they were part of a movement of Baden folk costume. At the turn of the 20th century, particularly Hasemann's painting, After Going To Church which showed Bollenhut wearers, was widely publicized in illustrated magazines and picture postcards.[3]

The fame of the Bollenhut as (wrongly) generally typical of the Black Forest rose as a result of films of local life (Heimatfilme) in the 1950s and 1960s, particularly the 1950 film, The Black Forest Girl (Schwarzwaldmädel), with Sonja Ziemann. This first German color film of the postwar period is one of the most successful German films of all time with an estimated 15 million viewers.

See also

[edit]

References

[edit]
  1. ^ Sarah Baird, "Know Your Sweets: Black Forest Cake". Serious Eats. Aug. 09, 2018
  2. ^ Marx, Katja (5 March 1993). "Mit roten Kugeln - Der Schwarzwälder Bollenhut ist in Gefahr". DIE ZEIT. Retrieved 2023-10-22.
  3. ^ Brigitte Heck: Ein Hut macht Karriere.. In: Badisches Landesmuseum Karlsruhe (publ.): Baden! 900 Jahre – Geschichten eines Landes. Info-Verlag, Karlsruhe, 2012, ISBN 978-3-937345-56-7, p. 256 (Katalog zur Großen Landesausstellung)
[edit]