Crack climbing: Difference between revisions
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{{Rock climbing|image=Coyne Crack 5.11+ - Supercrack Buttress - Indian Creek.jpg |caption=Crack climbing in [[Indian Creek (climbing area)|Indian Creek]]}} |
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{{Multiple image|perrow=2|total_width=370 | header=Examples of crack climbing |
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'''Crack climbing''' is a type of [[rock climbing]] in which the climber follows a [[Fracture (geology)|crack]] in the rock and uses specialized [[climbing techniques]]. The sizes of cracks vary from those that are just barely wide enough for the fingers to fit inside, to those that are so wide that the entire body can fit inside with all limbs outstretched. Many [[traditional climbing]] routes follow crack systems, as they provide natural opportunities for placing protective equipment. |
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| image1=Klettern im Steinbruch Rochlitz.jpg|caption1=Hand jamming |
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| image2=Piazen.jpg|caption2=Laybacking |
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| image3=Indian Creek Supercrack.jpg|caption3=Arm jamming |
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| image4=Pou Anaiak Totem Pole - panoramio - degar.jpg|caption4=Finger jamming |
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}} |
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In [[rock climbing]], a '''crack climb''' is a type of [[climbing route]] that follows a system of crack(s) or fissure(s) that the climber uses to ascend the route. The width of the crack dictates the [[rock-climbing technique |technique]]s needed, and crack-climbs are further differentiated by the body parts that can be 'jammed' into them, such as finger cracks (the narrowest), hand/fist cracks, arm cracks, and body (also called chimney) cracks. '''Off-width''' cracks are some of the most awkward, being too wide for the hands or arms, but too narrow to accommodate the body. The rarer top-to-bottom uniform-width crack is called a '''splitter crack'''.<ref name=HTRC5>{{cite book | title=How to Rock Climb | isbn=978-1493056262 | edition=6th | first1=John | last1=Long | first2=Bob | last2=Gaines | author-link=John Long (climber) | publisher=[[Globe Pequot Press|Falcon Guides]] | date=August 2022|pages=85-121 | chapter=Chapter 5. Crack Climbing}}</ref><ref name=PW>{{cite book | title=Crack Climbing | isbn=978-1493056262 | edition= | first1=Pete| last1=Whittaker| author-link= Pete Whittaker | publisher=Vertebrate Publishing | date=January 2020}}</ref> |
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Crack climbing routes require a broad range of [[rock-climbing technique |technique]]s, but most importantly emphasize the techniques of '[[laybacking]]' and of '[[jamming (climbing)|jamming]]'. Laybacking requires the crack to be off-set (i.e. one side protrudes) or in a corner, to create the opposing forces needed for the technique.<ref name=HTRC5/> 'Jamming' is where the climber physically "jams" a body-part(s) into the crack which they then pull on to gain upward momentum.<ref name=HTRC5/> The type of rock has an important effect on the effectiveness of 'jamming', with the high-friction surface of granite being particularly suited to the technique.<ref name=HTRC5/> The friction needed for 'jamming' can wear the climber's skin, requiring medical tape or specialist gloves for long crack routes.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/pete-whittaker-five-tips-crack-climbing/ | title=Pete Whittaker's Five Ultimate Rules for Crack Climbing | first=Pete | last=Whittaker| author-link=Pete Whittaker | date=12 October 2021 | accessdate=8 October 2024}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-crack-climb/ | title=How to Crack Climb | first=Ken | last=Pease | date=5 August 2022 | accessdate=8 October 2024}}</ref> |
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== Widths == |
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In the context of climbing, cracks are classified by their width in relation to the climber's body: finger, off-finger, hand, off-width, and chimneys. |
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* '''Finger cracks''' are just wide enough for all or part of the finger to fit inside; this width incorporates techniques used in [[face climbing]] and tends to favor climbers with small hands.<ref name="Long2003">{{cite book |title=How to Rock Climb! |author=Long, John |url=http://books.google.com/books?id=VU9yzvHAi0kC |year=2003 |publisher=Globe Pequot |isbn=9780762724710}}</ref>{{rp|p. 46,}} <ref name="Long1997">{{cite book |title=Advanced Rock Climbing |author1=Long, John |author2=Luebben, Craig |publisher=Globe Pequot |year=1997 |isbn=9781575400754 |url=http://books.google.com/books?id=Tu_5TL_Ci8kC}}</ref>{{rp|p. 35}} |
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* '''Off-finger cracks''', also called "off-hand", are wider than finger cracks, but not large enough for the entire hand to fit inside.<ref name="Long2003"/>{{rp|p. 49}} |
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* '''Hand cracks''' are just large enough for the entire hand to fit inside; the techniques for this width are "readily learned and very secure".<ref name="Long2003"/>{{rp|p. 51}} |
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* '''Off-width cracks''' are wider than hand cracks, but not wide enough for the legs or upper body to fit inside; this width is the most difficult to master, as it requires movements that can be physically awkward or uncomfortable.<ref name="Long2003"/>{{rp|p. 58}} |
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* '''Chimney cracks''' are large enough to fit the entire body inside, allowing for a wide variety of techniques depending on the distance between the two rock faces.<ref name="Long2003"/>{{rp|p. 67}} |
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Crack climbs are particularly suited to [[traditional climbing]] as the crack can accommodate the [[climbing protection|protection]] (e.g. ''[[Separate Reality (climb)|Separate Reality]]'').<ref name=PW/> The invention of [[spring-loaded camming device]]s in the 1970s revolutionised the difficulty of cracks that could be attempted by traditional climbers,<ref name=PW/> and led to new [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Pre-sport era|grade milestones]] set on crack-routes such as ''[[The Phoenix (climb)|The Phoenix]]'' in 1977, the world's first-ever {{climbing grade|7c+}}, and ''[[Grand Illusion (climb)|Grand Illusion]]'' in 1979, the world's first-ever {{climbing grade|8a}}.<ref name=GRMile>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine (Canada) | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/10-climbing-grade-milestones-since-1961/ | title=10 Climbing Grade Milestones Since 1961 | date=2 February 2024 | accessdate=9 October 2024 | first=Aaron | last=Pardy}}</ref><ref name=PMMile>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain.com | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/the-evolution-of-free-climbing.html | title=The evolution of free climbing | date=23 December 2012 | first=Maurizio | last=Oviglia | access-date=9 October 2024}}</ref> While the advent of bolted [[sport climbing]] routes in the 1980s diverted focus to the blanker [[face climbing|face climbs]], crack-climbs continued to feature prominently in the development of [[multi-pitch climbing|multi-pitch]] and [[big wall climbing|big wall climbs]], and most notably on the giant granite cracks on [[El Capitan]] and its famous routes such as ''[[The Nose (El Capitan)|The Nose]]''.<ref name=SC>{{cite book |title=Sport Climbing: From Toprope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success |first=Andrew |last=Bisharat |date=6 October 2009 |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=MI8TCgAAQBAJ&q=climbing+deadpoint+dyno&pg=PT73 |publisher=[[Mountaineers Books]] |isbn=978-1594852701 |accessdate=8 October 2024 |chapter=Chapter 1: Ethics, Style, and Emergence of Sport Climbing }}</ref> |
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The walls of crack systems rarely run [[Parallel (geometry)|parallel]] to each other throughout the entire length of the crack; they frequently constrict inwards and open outwards in various places. Some of the most challenging climbs follow cracks which run through many different widths. Even when a crack is uniform in width, it may require a different approach for each individual climber—a hand crack for a smaller climber may be an off-finger crack for a larger climber.<ref name="Long1997"/>{{rp|p. 39}} |
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The early 2000s saw a resurgence in traditional climbing, placing crack-climbing back in focus. Swiss climber [[Didier Berthod]] '[[Greenpoint (climbing)|greenpointed]]' the [[bolt (climbing)|bolted]] crack line of ''Greenspit'' at {{climbing grade|8b+}},<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/watch-didier-berthod-is-back-interview-with-swiss-crack-climbing-legend.html | date=19 May 2021 | accessdate=9 October 2024 | title=Watch Didier Berthod is Back / Interview with Swiss crack climbing legend}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | date=May 2019 | accessdate=9 October 2024 | title=Greenspit, the dream of a generation climbed in Valle Orco by Matteo della Bordella, Francesco Deiana | url= https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/greenspit-dream-generation-climbed-valle-orco-matteo-della-bordella-francesco-deiana.html}}</ref> as did Canadian [[Sonnie Trotter]] on ''The Path'',<ref name=ALP>{{cite web |last=Lambert |first=Erik|date=31 August 2007 |title=Trotter Chops Bolts, Sends Marathon Crack Project|url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP20/newswire-trotter-path-bolt-chop |access-date=8 February 2023|magazine=[[Alpinist (magazine)|Alpinist]]}}</ref> and Austrian {{ill|Beat Kammerlander|de}} on ''[[Prinzip Hoffnung]]''.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Desnivel]] | url=https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/prinzip-hoffnung-de-locura-de-beat-kammerlander-a-nueva-clasica/ | title=Prinzip Hoffnung, from Beat Kammerlander madness to new crack climbing classic | date=10 March 2014 | accessdate=9 October 2024 | language=es| trans-title=es}}</ref> In 2006, new [[Traditional climbing#Hardest routes|traditional-grade milestones]] were set on crack-climbs by Trotter on ''[[Cobra Crack]]'' at {{climbing grade|8c}},<ref name=ALP/> and by Scottish climber [[Dave MacLeod]] on ''[[Rhapsody (climb)|Rhapsody]]'' at {{climbing grade|8c+}}.<ref name=ALP/> In 2008, American climber [[Beth Rodden]] freed the Yosemite crack-line of ''Meltdown'' at {{climbing grade|8c+}}, becoming the first-ever women to climb a traditional route at that grade, which at the time was also the highest traditional grade climbed anywhere.<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jacopo-larcher-repeats-beth-rodden-meltdown-in-yosemite.html | date=26 November 2022 | accessdate=8 October 2024 | title=Jacopo Larcher repeats Beth Rodden's Meltdown in Yosemite}}</ref> In 2011, British crack specialists, [[Pete Whittaker]] and [[Tom Randall (climber)|Tom Randall]], climbed the world's hardest off-width crack, ''[[Century Crack]]'' at {{climbing grade|8b}}.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine (Canada) | url=https://gripped.com/news/rare-repeat-of-worlds-hardest-offwidth-crack/ | title=Rare Repeat of World’s Hardest Offwidth Crack | first=Aaron | last=Pardy | date=6 November 2023 | accessdate=8 October 2024}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/videos/wide-boyz-on-century-crack-5-14b-worlds-hardest-offwidth/ | title=Wide Boyz on Century Crack (5.14b), World's Hardest Offwidth | author=((The Editors)) | date=11 November 2011 | accessdate=8 October 2024}}</ref> In 2021, the same duo, climbed the world's longest [[roof (climbing)|roof]] climb, a {{Convert|762|m|ft|adj=on}} cement crack under the [[M5 motorway|M5]] in [[Devon]], ''The Great Rift'' at {{climbing grade|5.13}}.<ref>{{cite web | website=[[Guinness World Records]] | url=https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/691477-longest-roof-climb | title=Longest Roof Climb | date=2024 | accessdate=8 October 2024 | quote=The longest continuous roof (horizontal) climb in the world is "The Great Rift", a 762-m-long crack-climb that has been graded as a 5.13. The route, which runs along the underside of an elevated section of the M5 motorway in Devon, was discovered and completed for the first time in November 2021 by British climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/wide-boyz-climb-the-great-rift-2500-foot-5-13-bridge-crack/ | title=Wide Boyz Tackle The Great Rift (5.13) Roof Crack Under 2,500-foot Cement Bridge | first=Owen | last=Clarke| date=8 December 2021 | accessdate=8 October 2024}}</ref> |
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== History == |
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Throughout the history of rock climbing, whenever [[traditional climbing|traditional climbers]] seek to develop routes in a new area, they almost invariably follow crack systems which offer natural locations for placing protective equipment. The use of the term "line" as a synonym for "route" derives from this practice, as cracks often form visually distinct lines that can be followed from base to top.<ref name="Long2003"/>{{rp|p. 43}} |
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==See also== |
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Prior to the introduction of [[spring-loaded camming device]]s, there was no suitable method for placing protective gear in off-width cracks, which made such routes extremely dangerous even when they were not technically demanding. It was not until the 1980s that extra-wide camming devices proliferated, enabling climbers to safely ascend off-widths.<ref name="Long1997"/>{{rp|p. 51}} |
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*[[Face climbing]] |
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*[[Slab climbing]] |
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*[[Rock-climbing technique]] |
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By the 1990s, crack climbing had diminished in popularity for a variety of reasons. The advent of [[sport climbing]] allowed climbers to focus on difficulty and aesthetic appeal when developing new routes; it was no longer necessary to learn specialized crack techniques in order to [[Lead climbing|lead climb]] safely. Furthermore, cracks are difficult to simulate in [[Indoor climbing|climbing gyms]], so those who train indoors are limited to [[face climbing|face routes]] when they climb outside.<ref name="Long1997"/>{{rp|p. 35}} |
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{{reflist}} |
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===Further reading=== |
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In 2006, Canadian [[Sonnie Trotter]] made the [[first ascent|first free ascent]] of the ''Cobra Crack'' in [[Squamish, British Columbia|Squamish]], [[British Columbia]], which is considered to be the hardest crack climb in the world. |
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*{{cite book | title=How to Rock Climb | isbn=978-1493056262 | edition=6th | first1=John | last1=Long | first2=Bob | last2=Gaines | author-link=John Long (climber) | publisher=[[Globe Pequot Press|Falcon Guides]] | date=August 2022}} |
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*{{cite book | title=Crack Climbing | isbn=978-1493056262 | edition= | first1=Pete| last1=Whittaker| author-link= Pete Whittaker | publisher=Vertebrate Publishing | date=January 2020}} |
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*{{cite book | date=2018 | title=[[Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills]] | edition=9th | isbn=978-1846892622 | publisher=Quiller Publishing | author=[[The Mountaineers (club)|The Mountaineers]]}} |
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*{{cite book | title=Advanced Rock Climbing: Expert Skills and Techniques | first1=Topher | last1=Donahue | isbn=978-1-59485-862-8 | date=December 2016 | publisher=[[The Mountaineers (club)|The Mountaineers]]}} |
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==External links== |
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In 2011, Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker completed the first free ascent of ''Century Crack'', a {{convert|160|ft|m|adj=on}} off-width in [[Canyonlands National Park]], [[Utah]]. The crack was first attempted in 2001, and is considered one of the hardest off-width crack climbs in the world.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.outsideonline.com/blog/climbing-the-worlds-hardest-off-width.html |title=Climbing the World's Hardest Off-Width |author=Roy, Adam |publisher=Outside Magazine |date=21 November 2011 |accessdate=21 August 2013 }}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2098610/Theyve-cracked-Two-British-climbers-conquer-160ft-fissure-Utah-national-park.html |title=They've cracked it! Two British climbers become first to conquer 160ft fissure in Utah national park |author=Reynolds, Emma |publisher=The Daily Mail |date=9 February 2012 |accessdate =21 August 2013}}</ref> |
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{{commons category}} |
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*[https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/crack-climbing.html Getting Started Crack Climbing], [[REI]] (2024) |
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*[https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/crack-climbing/ Crack Climbing Technique], ''VDiff Climbing'' (2024) |
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{{Climbing navbox}} |
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== Technique == |
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[[File:Trout creek stemming.jpg|thumb|A [[top rope]] climber in the classic stemming position]] |
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The most fundamental technique used in crack climbing is "jamming", in which the climber forces a body part into the crack such that it exerts force on both walls. This creates the [[friction]] needed for the climber to make upward progress. The body part used and its positioning are largely dependent on the width of the crack. For example, some cracks are just wide enough that they can be jammed with an open hand. A crack slightly wider than that may require the hand to be curled into a fist to form an effective jam.<ref name="Gnade2008">{{cite book |title=Crack Climbing! |author1=Gnade, Lisa |author2=Petro, Steve |year=2008 |publisher=Globe Pequot |isbn=9780762745913 |url=http://books.google.com/books?id=zsE7XQGeGY0C}}</ref>{{rp|pp. 3–15}} |
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When the crack is too wide for a single limb to jam, climbers use a technique known as "stacking": both hands or both feet are placed inside the crack, pressed against each other. For example, if the crack is too wide for a fist jam, the climber may press a closed fist against one wall and an open hand upon the other in order to span the width of the crack.<ref name="Long1997"/>{{rp|p. 52}} The "stemming" technique, used on cracks that are wider than the climber's body, employs a similar principle. The four limbs are pressed straight outwards against opposing rock faces; limbs are moved upward one at a time while maintaining contact with the other three limbs.<ref name="Gnade2008"/>{{rp|p. 27}} |
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== Equipment == |
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[[File:Klim friends.jpg|thumb|right|A collection of [[spring-loaded camming device]]s]] |
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In [[traditional climbing]], the climber places protective gear while ascending the route, rather than installing permanent fixtures beforehand. Much of this equipment was designed specifically for use in crack systems. The two main categories of protection are ''passive'', with no moving parts, and ''active'', which use [[Spring (device)|spring]]s to keep the gear fixed in place.<ref name="Luebben2007"/>{{rp|pp. 74–76}} In both categories, protective gear is color-coded by size to allow the climber to quickly identify the correct piece of gear for a given position while climbing.<ref name="Long1997"/>{{rp|p. 39}} |
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Nuts and hexes are two common types of passive protection. A [[Nut (climbing)|nut]] is a small rectangular piece of metal on the end of a wire cable, with a loop at the other end for attaching a [[carabiner]]. The nut is placed inside a crack, just above a constriction in width. This prevents the equipment from slipping downward or out of the crack when the climber falls. Most nuts are between {{convert|3.8|and|50|mm|in}} wide.<ref name="Luebben2007">{{cite book |title=Rock Climbing Anchors |author=Luebben, Craig |year=2007 |publisher=The Mountaineers Books |isbn=9781594852398 |url=http://books.google.com/books?id=IXqk_0N1HgcC}}</ref>{{rp|pp. 75–77}} Hexagonal [[Chock (climbing)|chocks]], also called "hexes", are similar to nuts, but are designed for larger cracks; the most common sizes range from {{convert|25|to|65|mm|in|1}} in width. The irregular shape of hexes allow them to be placed in several different orientations depending on the shape of the crack.<ref name="Luebben2007"/>{{rp|p. 85}} |
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The [[spring-loaded camming device]] was developed in [[Yosemite National Park]] the 1970s, and is now one of the most popular forms of protection. Each camming device has three or four [[cam]]s, a shaft, and a trigger mechanism. When the trigger is engaged, the cams contract, allowing it to be placed inside the crack. The trigger is then released, causing the cams to expand outward against the walls of the crack. The device is designed to convert a downward pull on the shaft into outward force through the cams.<ref name="Lourens2005">{{cite book | title=Guide to Climbing |author=Lourens, Tony |publisher=Stackpole Books |year=2005 |url=http://books.google.com/books?id=mdQcBNKK1iIC |isbn=9780811701525}}</ref>{{rp|p. 89}} |
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== Grading == |
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There are several different systems used to rate the difficulty of climbing routes. In North America, the most commonly used scale is the [[Yosemite Decimal System]]. Most crack climbs are rated between 5.5 and 5.14, where the first "5" indicates that the route is a technical climb (as opposed to a scramble or walking trail), and the second number indicates the difficulty. A 5.6 crack is an easy climb, usually less steep than vertical, and with numerous accompanying [[face climbing|face holds]]. Cracks rated 5.12 or above are considered advanced, typically due to an overhanging angle, a lack of face holds, or because the crack is off-width.<ref name="YDS guide">{{cite web |url=http://www.coloradomountaineering.com/2012/01/guide-to-yosemite-decimal-system.html |title=A Guide to the Yosemite Decimal System |publisher=Colorado Mountaineering |date=7 January 2012 |accessdate=21 August 2013}}</ref> At the upper end of the scale, the grades are further subdivided by appending the letters ''a'' through ''d''. For example, 5.13c is easier than 5.13d, both of which are less difficult than 5.14a.<ref name="Robinson2013">{{cite book |title=Rock Climbing |year=2013 |author= Robinson, Victoria |publisher=ABC-CLIO |isbn=9780313378621 |url=http://books.google.com/books?id=3OkUEt8CuXQC }}</ref>{{rp|pp. 5–6}} |
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{{Reflist}} |
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[[Category:Types of climbing]] |
[[Category:Types of climbing]] |
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[[Category:Climbing routes|*]] |
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Latest revision as of 13:11, 18 October 2024
Examples of crack climbing
Hand jamming
Laybacking
Arm jamming
Finger jamming
In rock climbing, a crack climb is a type of climbing route that follows a system of crack(s) or fissure(s) that the climber uses to ascend the route. The width of the crack dictates the techniques needed, and crack-climbs are further differentiated by the body parts that can be 'jammed' into them, such as finger cracks (the narrowest), hand/fist cracks, arm cracks, and body (also called chimney) cracks. Off-width cracks are some of the most awkward, being too wide for the hands or arms, but too narrow to accommodate the body. The rarer top-to-bottom uniform-width crack is called a splitter crack.[1][2]
Crack climbing routes require a broad range of techniques, but most importantly emphasize the techniques of 'laybacking' and of 'jamming'. Laybacking requires the crack to be off-set (i.e. one side protrudes) or in a corner, to create the opposing forces needed for the technique.[1] 'Jamming' is where the climber physically "jams" a body-part(s) into the crack which they then pull on to gain upward momentum.[1] The type of rock has an important effect on the effectiveness of 'jamming', with the high-friction surface of granite being particularly suited to the technique.[1] The friction needed for 'jamming' can wear the climber's skin, requiring medical tape or specialist gloves for long crack routes.[3][4]
Crack climbs are particularly suited to traditional climbing as the crack can accommodate the protection (e.g. Separate Reality).[2] The invention of spring-loaded camming devices in the 1970s revolutionised the difficulty of cracks that could be attempted by traditional climbers,[2] and led to new grade milestones set on crack-routes such as The Phoenix in 1977, the world's first-ever 7c+ (5.13a), and Grand Illusion in 1979, the world's first-ever 8a (5.13b).[5][6] While the advent of bolted sport climbing routes in the 1980s diverted focus to the blanker face climbs, crack-climbs continued to feature prominently in the development of multi-pitch and big wall climbs, and most notably on the giant granite cracks on El Capitan and its famous routes such as The Nose.[7]
The early 2000s saw a resurgence in traditional climbing, placing crack-climbing back in focus. Swiss climber Didier Berthod 'greenpointed' the bolted crack line of Greenspit at 8b+ (5.14a),[8][9] as did Canadian Sonnie Trotter on The Path,[10] and Austrian Beat Kammerlander on Prinzip Hoffnung.[11] In 2006, new traditional-grade milestones were set on crack-climbs by Trotter on Cobra Crack at 8c (5.14b),[10] and by Scottish climber Dave MacLeod on Rhapsody at 8c+ (5.14c).[10] In 2008, American climber Beth Rodden freed the Yosemite crack-line of Meltdown at 8c+ (5.14c), becoming the first-ever women to climb a traditional route at that grade, which at the time was also the highest traditional grade climbed anywhere.[12] In 2011, British crack specialists, Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall, climbed the world's hardest off-width crack, Century Crack at 8b (5.13d).[13][14] In 2021, the same duo, climbed the world's longest roof climb, a 762-metre (2,500 ft) cement crack under the M5 in Devon, The Great Rift at 5.13 (7c+).[15][16]
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ a b c d Long, John; Gaines, Bob (August 2022). "Chapter 5. Crack Climbing". How to Rock Climb (6th ed.). Falcon Guides. pp. 85–121. ISBN 978-1493056262.
- ^ a b c Whittaker, Pete (January 2020). Crack Climbing. Vertebrate Publishing. ISBN 978-1493056262.
- ^ Whittaker, Pete (12 October 2021). "Pete Whittaker's Five Ultimate Rules for Crack Climbing". Climbing. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
- ^ Pease, Ken (5 August 2022). "How to Crack Climb". Climbing. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
- ^ Pardy, Aaron (2 February 2024). "10 Climbing Grade Milestones Since 1961". Gripped Magazine (Canada). Retrieved 9 October 2024.
- ^ Oviglia, Maurizio (23 December 2012). "The evolution of free climbing". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 9 October 2024.
- ^ Bisharat, Andrew (6 October 2009). "Chapter 1: Ethics, Style, and Emergence of Sport Climbing". Sport Climbing: From Toprope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success. Mountaineers Books. ISBN 978-1594852701. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
- ^ "Watch Didier Berthod is Back / Interview with Swiss crack climbing legend". PlanetMountain. 19 May 2021. Retrieved 9 October 2024.
- ^ "Greenspit, the dream of a generation climbed in Valle Orco by Matteo della Bordella, Francesco Deiana". PlanetMountain. May 2019. Retrieved 9 October 2024.
- ^ a b c Lambert, Erik (31 August 2007). "Trotter Chops Bolts, Sends Marathon Crack Project". Alpinist. Retrieved 8 February 2023.
- ^ "Prinzip Hoffnung, from Beat Kammerlander madness to new crack climbing classic" [es]. Desnivel (in Spanish). 10 March 2014. Retrieved 9 October 2024.
- ^ "Jacopo Larcher repeats Beth Rodden's Meltdown in Yosemite". PlanetMountain. 26 November 2022. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
- ^ Pardy, Aaron (6 November 2023). "Rare Repeat of World's Hardest Offwidth Crack". Gripped Magazine (Canada). Retrieved 8 October 2024.
- ^ The Editors (11 November 2011). "Wide Boyz on Century Crack (5.14b), World's Hardest Offwidth". Climbing. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
- ^ "Longest Roof Climb". Guinness World Records. 2024. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
The longest continuous roof (horizontal) climb in the world is "The Great Rift", a 762-m-long crack-climb that has been graded as a 5.13. The route, which runs along the underside of an elevated section of the M5 motorway in Devon, was discovered and completed for the first time in November 2021 by British climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker
- ^ Clarke, Owen (8 December 2021). "Wide Boyz Tackle The Great Rift (5.13) Roof Crack Under 2,500-foot Cement Bridge". Climbing. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
Further reading
[edit]- Long, John; Gaines, Bob (August 2022). How to Rock Climb (6th ed.). Falcon Guides. ISBN 978-1493056262.
- Whittaker, Pete (January 2020). Crack Climbing. Vertebrate Publishing. ISBN 978-1493056262.
- The Mountaineers (2018). Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (9th ed.). Quiller Publishing. ISBN 978-1846892622.
- Donahue, Topher (December 2016). Advanced Rock Climbing: Expert Skills and Techniques. The Mountaineers. ISBN 978-1-59485-862-8.
External links
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Wikimedia Commons has media related to Crack climbing.
- Getting Started Crack Climbing, REI (2024)
- Crack Climbing Technique, VDiff Climbing (2024)
