Jump to content

Shell cordovan: Difference between revisions

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Browse history interactively
← Previous edit
Content deleted Content added
VisualWikitext
Removed needless use of slang term "swaggy."
Jayb.rd98 (talk | contribs)
174 edits
No edit summary
Tags: Visual edit Mobile edit Mobile web edit
 
(38 intermediate revisions by 30 users not shown)
Line 1: Line 1:
{{Short description|Equine leather}}
{{redirect|Cordwain|the occupation|Cordwainer}}
[[Image:Wingoxford.jpg|thumb|225px|Shell cordovan oxford [[Brogue shoe|Brogue]]]]
[[Image:Wingoxford.jpg|thumb|225px|Shell cordovan oxford [[Brogue shoe|Brogue]]]]
'''Shell cordovan''' (or '''cordovan''') is a type of [[leather]] commonly used in [[Luxury goods|high-end]] [[shoemaking]]. Cordovan is an [[equine]] leather made from the fibrous flat muscle (or shell) beneath the [[Hide (skin)|hide]] on the [[Rump (animal)|rump]] of the horse.<ref>{{cite book| last = Baldwin | first = William Henry | title = The Shopping Book | publisher = The Macmillan company | year = 1929 | pages = 223 }}</ref> The leather derives its name from the city of [[Cordoba, Spain]], where it was was first practiced by the [[Visigoth]]s in the seventh century,<ref>{{cite book| last = Constable | first = Olivia Remie | title = Trade and Traders in Muslim Spain | publisher = Cambridge University Press | date = 1994 }}</ref> and later also by the [[Moors]].<ref>{{cite book| last = Watt | first = Alexander | title = Leather Manufacture | publisher = Van Nostrand | year = 1906 | pages = 228 }}</ref> It is a difficult and expensive leather to make and in the late 19th and early 20th century was mostly used for razor strops to sharpen razors in barber shops. More recently it has been increasingly used for shoes, wallets, and watch straps due to its aesthetic qualities and exceptional durability. Shell cordovan has a unique non-creasing characteristic.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://bestleather.org/all-about-shell-cordovan-with-horween-leather-co/|title=All About Shell Cordovan - An Interview With Horween Leather Co. - BestLeather.org|website=bestleather.org|access-date=2016-12-17}}</ref>
'''Shell cordovan,''' '''cordovan,''' or '''cordwain''' is a type of [[tanning (leather)|tanned]] [[Connective Tissue#Fibrous_types|fibrous connective tissue]] commonly used in [[Luxury goods|high-end]] [[shoemaking]]. Cordovan is an [[equine]] material made from the fibrous flat connective tissue (or ''shell'') beneath the [[Hide (skin)|hide]] on the [[Rump (animal)|rump]] of the horse.<ref>{{cite book| last = Baldwin | first = William Henry | title = The Shopping Book | publisher = The Macmillan company | year = 1929 | pages = 223 }}</ref> The material derives its name from the city of [[Cordoba, Spain]], where it was first produced by the [[Visigoth]]s in the seventh century,<ref>{{cite book| last = Constable | first = Olivia Remie | title = Trade and Traders in Muslim Spain | publisher = Cambridge University Press | date = 1994 }}</ref> {{Dubious|Shell_Cordovan_history|date=July 2023}} and later also by the [[Moors]].<ref>{{cite book| last = Watt | first = Alexander | title = Leather Manufacture | url = https://archive.org/details/leathermanufactu00wattrich | publisher = Van Nostrand | year = 1906 | pages = [https://archive.org/details/leathermanufactu00wattrich/page/228 228] }}</ref>{{Dubious|Shell_Cordovan_history|date=May 2022}} It is a difficult and expensive material to make, and in the late 19th and early 20th century was mostly used for [[razor strop]]s to hone razors in barber shops. More recently it has been increasingly used for shoes, wallets, and watch straps due to its aesthetic qualities and exceptional durability. It is also used in archery to protect the fingers. It is smooth and durable, ideal for a [[finger tab]]. Shell cordovan has a unique non-creasing characteristic. Because it is made of connective tissue, it is smooth and lacks the pebbled effect of leather derived from animal skin. <ref>{{Cite web|url=http://bestleather.org/all-about-shell-cordovan-with-horween-leather-co/|title=All About Shell Cordovan - An Interview With Horween Leather Co. - BestLeather.org|website=bestleather.org|date=4 June 2013 |access-date=2016-12-17}}</ref>


[[Horween Leather Company]], the oldest tannery in the United States, is known for its production of shell cordovan and was called the "Cordovan capital of the world" by the ''[[Chicago Tribune]]''.<ref name="chicagotribune2003">{{cite news|author= Barbara Rolek |url=https://www.chicagotribune.com/2003/10/27/horweens-leather-bound-by-tradition/ |title=Horween's leather bound by tradition |publisher=Chicago Tribune |date=October 27, 2003 |access-date=March 27, 2013}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://pqasb.pqarchiver.com/chicagotribune/access/7894772.html?dids=7894772:7894772&FMT=ABS&FMTS=ABS:FT&type=current&date=Dec+08%2C+1991&author=Arena%2C+Stephanie&pub=Chicago+Tribune&desc=Leather+Land%3A++At+Horween+Tannery%2C+Cordovan+Has+Been+King+for+86+Years&pqatl=google |archive-url=https://archive.today/20130411155754/http://pqasb.pqarchiver.com/chicagotribune/access/7894772.html?dids=7894772:7894772&FMT=ABS&FMTS=ABS:FT&type=current&date=Dec+08,+1991&author=Arena,+Stephanie&pub=Chicago+Tribune&desc=Leather+Land:++At+Horween+Tannery,+Cordovan+Has+Been+King+for+86+Years&pqatl=google |url-status=dead |archive-date=April 11, 2013 |author= Stephanie Arena|title=Leather Land: At Horween Tannery, Cordovan has Been King for 86 Years |publisher=Chicago Tribune |date=December 8, 1991 |accessdate=March 26, 2013}}</ref>
⚫
==Production==
⚫
After removal from the [[horse]], the hide is measured from the root of the [[tail]] 18 inches forward on the [[Vertebral column|backbone]]. The hide is cut at right angles to the backbone and the resulting pieces termed a "front" (the forward part) and the "butt". The term cordovan leather applies to the product of both the tanned fronts and tanned butts, but is especially used in connection with the term [[galoshes]], meaning the vamps or [[boot]]-fronts cut from the shell of the butt.<ref name="eb">{{cite book | author = Encyclopaedia Britannica | title = Encyclopaedia Britannica| publisher = The Werner Company | year = 1905 | pages = 284 }}</ref>


⚫
==Production==
⚫
After being tanned, leather from the "front" is typically used in the fabrication of [[glove]]s, or blackened, to be used in the tops of shoes. The "butt", after tanning, is passed through a splitting-machine which removes the grain, or [[hair]] side, revealing what is termed the "shell". The close fibers of the shell result in a smooth and pliable leather used almost exclusively in the manufacture of [[shoes]] <ref name="eb"/> and watch straps, although another use is for the manufacture of finger protection tabs for recreational [[archery]], where it is prized for its toughness, longevity, and protective qualities.
⚫
After removal from the horse, the hide is measured from the root of the [[tail]] 18 inches forward on the [[Vertebral column|backbone]]. The hide is cut at right angles to the backbone and the resulting pieces termed a "front" (the forward part) and the "butt". The term cordovan leather applies to the product of both the tanned fronts and tanned butts, but is especially used in connection with the term [[galoshes]], meaning the vamps or [[boot]]-fronts cut from the shell of the butt.<ref name="eb">{{cite book | author = Encyclopædia Britannica | title = Encyclopædia Britannica| publisher = The Werner Company | year = 1905 | pages = 284 }}</ref>


⚫
After being tanned, leather from the "front" is typically used in the fabrication of [[glove]]s, or blackened, to be used in the tops of shoes. The "butt", after tanning, is passed through a splitting-machine which removes the grain, or [[hair]] side, revealing what is termed the "shell". The close fibers of the shell result in a smooth and pliable material used mostly in the manufacture of [[shoes]]. <ref name="eb"/> Other uses include watch straps and the manufacture of finger protection tabs for [[archery]]{{emdash}}where it is prized for its toughness, longevity, and protective qualities.
Due to the difficulty in applying dyes, shell cordovan is available in a narrow range of colors.<ref>[http://www.heddels.com/2014/10/know-shoe-leathers-9-common-options/ Shoe leather options] heddels.com October 2014</ref> For the leather used at [[Alden Shoe Company]], the tanning process takes six months to complete.<ref>[http://www.aldenshoe.com/DrawOnePage.aspx?PageID=7 GENUINE SHELL CORDOVAN] [[Alden Shoe Company]]</ref>


==References==
==References==

Latest revision as of 06:20, 2 October 2024

"Cordwain" redirects here. For the occupation, see Cordwainer.
Shell cordovan oxford Brogue

Shell cordovan, cordovan, or cordwain is a type of tanned fibrous connective tissue commonly used in high-end shoemaking. Cordovan is an equine material made from the fibrous flat connective tissue (or shell) beneath the hide on the rump of the horse.[1] The material derives its name from the city of Cordoba, Spain, where it was first produced by the Visigoths in the seventh century,[2] [dubious – discuss] and later also by the Moors.[3][dubious – discuss] It is a difficult and expensive material to make, and in the late 19th and early 20th century was mostly used for razor strops to hone razors in barber shops. More recently it has been increasingly used for shoes, wallets, and watch straps due to its aesthetic qualities and exceptional durability. It is also used in archery to protect the fingers. It is smooth and durable, ideal for a finger tab. Shell cordovan has a unique non-creasing characteristic. Because it is made of connective tissue, it is smooth and lacks the pebbled effect of leather derived from animal skin. [4]

Horween Leather Company, the oldest tannery in the United States, is known for its production of shell cordovan and was called the "Cordovan capital of the world" by the Chicago Tribune.[5][6]

Production

[edit]

After removal from the horse, the hide is measured from the root of the tail 18 inches forward on the backbone. The hide is cut at right angles to the backbone and the resulting pieces termed a "front" (the forward part) and the "butt". The term cordovan leather applies to the product of both the tanned fronts and tanned butts, but is especially used in connection with the term galoshes, meaning the vamps or boot-fronts cut from the shell of the butt.[7]

After being tanned, leather from the "front" is typically used in the fabrication of gloves, or blackened, to be used in the tops of shoes. The "butt", after tanning, is passed through a splitting-machine which removes the grain, or hair side, revealing what is termed the "shell". The close fibers of the shell result in a smooth and pliable material used mostly in the manufacture of shoes. [7] Other uses include watch straps and the manufacture of finger protection tabs for archery—where it is prized for its toughness, longevity, and protective qualities.

References

[edit]
  1. ^ Baldwin, William Henry (1929). The Shopping Book. The Macmillan company. p. 223.
  2. ^ Constable, Olivia Remie (1994). Trade and Traders in Muslim Spain. Cambridge University Press.
  3. ^ Watt, Alexander (1906). Leather Manufacture. Van Nostrand. pp. 228.
  4. ^ "All About Shell Cordovan - An Interview With Horween Leather Co. - BestLeather.org". bestleather.org. 4 June 2013. Retrieved 2016-12-17.
  5. ^ Barbara Rolek (October 27, 2003). "Horween's leather bound by tradition". Chicago Tribune. Retrieved March 27, 2013.
  6. ^ Stephanie Arena (December 8, 1991). "Leather Land: At Horween Tannery, Cordovan has Been King for 86 Years". Chicago Tribune. Archived from the original on April 11, 2013. Retrieved March 26, 2013.
  7. ^ a b Encyclopædia Britannica (1905). Encyclopædia Britannica. The Werner Company. p. 284.
[edit]
Retrieved from "https://en.wikipedia.org/enwiki/w/index.php?title=Shell_cordovan&oldid=1248922813"