[[File:Setaki.JPG|thumb|A {{gli|quickdraw}} with one end attached to a {{gli|bolt hanger}} (which is itself attached to a fixed {{gli|bolt}}), and the other end clipped into a {{gli|dynamic rope}}, on a {{gli|sport climbing|sport climb}} {{gli|climbing route|route}}]]
This page describes terms and [[jargon]] related to [[climbing]] and [[mountaineering]].<ref>{{cite web|title=Rock Climbing Dictionary|url=http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Introduction_to_Climbing/Climbing_Dictionary_528.html|publisher=Rock Climbing.com|accessdate=2012-10-28}}</ref>
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'''Glossary of climbing terms''' relates to [[rock climbing]] (including [[aid climbing]], [[lead climbing]], [[bouldering]], and [[competition climbing]]), [[mountaineering]], and to [[ice climbing]].<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC>{{cite web|last1=Bate|first1=Chris|last2=Arthur|first2=Charles|title=A Glossary of Climbing terms: from Abseil to Zawn|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/a_glossary_of_climbing_terms_from_abseil_to_zawn-33|website=UK Climbing|access-date=29 April 2018|language=en|date=8 May 2006|display-authors=etal}}</ref><ref name=SC>{{cite book|title=Sport Climbing: From Toprope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success|author=Andrew Bisharat|date=6 October 2009|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=MI8TCgAAQBAJ&q=climbing+deadpoint+dyno&pg=PT73 | publisher=[[Mountaineers Books]] | isbn=978-1594852701|accessdate=15 August 2023}} ebook: {{isbn|9781594855139}}</ref>
The terms used can vary between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases described here are particular to the United States and the United Kingdom.
: A style of climbing in which standing on or pulling oneself up via devices attached to fixed or placed protection is used to make upward progress.
'''<span id="alpine_climbing">Alpine climbing</span>''' : Generally climbing in the mountains. Probably includes a mixture of ice climbing and dry-tooling. Alpine style generally means carrying all gear in a backpack even for multi day climbs.
'''<span id="alpine_start">Alpine knee</span>'''
: To use your knee as a way to gain ground on a climb.
'''<span id="alpine_start">Alpine start</span>'''
: To make an efficient start on a long climb by packing all your gear the previous evening and starting early in the morning, usually well before sunrise.
: A medical condition that is often observed at high altitudes. Also known as ''Acute mountain sickness'', or AMS.<ref name=MedicalProblems>{{cite journal |author1=Cymerman, A |author2=Rock, PB |title=Medical Problems in High Mountain Environments. A Handbook for Medical Officers |publisher=US Army Research Inst. of Environmental Medicine Thermal and Mountain Medicine Division Technical Report |volume=USARIEM-TN94-2 |url=http://archive.rubicon-foundation.org/7976 |accessdate=2009-03-05}}</ref>
'''<span id="american_death_triangle">[[American death triangle]]</span>'''
: An anchor which is created by connecting a closed loop of cord or webbing between two points of protection, and then suspending the rope from a carabiner clipped to only one strand of said anchor. This creates a triangular shape in the webbing or cord, which places massively multiplied inward forces on the protection, making it a dangerous, ineffective anchor.
:An arrangement of one or (usually) more pieces of gear set up to support the weight of a [[belay]] or [[top rope]].
'''<span id="approach">Approach</span>'''
: The path or route to the start of a technical climb. Although this is generally a walk or, at most, a scramble it is occasionally as hazardous as the climb itself.
'''<span id="arete">Arête</span>'''
:# A small ridge-like feature or a sharp outward facing corner on a steep rock face
:# [[Arête]], a narrow ridge of rock formed by glacial erosion
:# A method of indoor climbing, in which one is able to use such a corner as a hold. See also [[#dihedral|dihedral]].
'''{{anchor|armbar}}Arm bar'''
: Jamming an arm into a crack and locking it into place.
'''{{anchor|arque}}{{anchor|arqué}}Arqué'''
: (from the French word meaning ''arched'') Used to describe [[#C|crimping]]. In this position typically the first set of knuckles are [[hyperextended]] and the second have a sharp angle of about 90 degrees. This combines muscular effort with soft tissue tensions in order to apply the load. When used often, this position has been known to over-stress the [[tendons]] in fingers and lead to injuries.
: A proprietary [[belay device]] manufactured by [[Black Diamond Equipment|Black Diamond]]. Has become common term for any tubular [[belay device]]s. ATC originally stood for 'Air Traffic Controller'.
: When a climber falls in a manner where the rope that they are attached to runs through their legs; upon falling, the rope tightens and suspends the climber via the rope rather than the harness.
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== B ==
'''<span id="b_grade">"B"-grade</span>'''
: A [[Grade (bouldering)|grading system]] for [[bouldering]] problems, invented by [[John Gill (climber)|John Gill]]. Now largely superseded by the [[#V grading system|"V" grading system]].
: A potentially hazardous mistake that can be made while [[#lead climbing|lead climbing]]. The rope is clipped into a quickdraw such that the leader's end runs underneath the quickdraw as opposed to over top of it. If the leader falls, the rope may fold directly over the gate causing it to open and release the rope from the carabiner.
'''<span id="bail">Bail</span>'''
: To retreat from a climb.
[[File:Joshua Tree - Illusion Dweller 1.jpg|thumb|Climber's right foot pressing on a rock, is preventing him from '''barn door''' swing to the right.]]
'''<span id="barn_door">Barn-door</span>'''
: If all points of contact climber has with the wall are on a straight axis, or close to it, his body might swing uncontrollably downward around this axis, like a door on a hinge.
'''<span id="bashie">Bashie</span>'''
: A copperhead intended for pounding into a crack
'''<span id="belay">[[Belaying|Belay]]</span>'''
: To [[protection (climbing)|protect]] a roped climber from falling by passing the rope through, or around, any type of friction enhancing belay device. Before belay devices were invented, the rope was simply passed around the belayer's hips to create friction.
: A mechanical device used to create friction when belaying by putting bends in the rope. Many types of belay devices exist, including ATC, [[Grigri (climbing)|grigri]], [[Reverso]], Sticht plate, eight and tuber. Some belay devices may also be used as [[#descender|descenders]]. A [[Munter hitch]] can sometimes be used instead of a [[belay device]].
'''<span id="belay_loop">Belay Loop</span>'''
: The strongest point on the harness. This is the loop you use your belay device on. You should not tie anything around the belay loop such as a daisy chain or sling. The belay loop will wear more quickly.
'''<span id="belay_off">Belay off</span>'''
: Called by belayer to confirm belay has been removed from climbing rope. Response to [[#off belay|Off belay]] request.
'''<span id="belay_on">Belay on</span>'''
: Called by belayer to confirm belay has been (re)applied to climbing rope. Response to [[#on belay|On belay]] request.
'''<span id="belay_slave">Belay slave</span>'''
: Someone that volunteers for, or is tricked into, repeated belaying duties without partaking in any of the actual climbing.
'''<span id="benightment">Benightment</span>'''
: An unscheduled overnight [[bivouac shelter|bivouac]] often due to an epic.
: A [[crevasse]] that forms on the upper portion of a [[glacier]] where the moving section pulls away from the [[#headwall|headwall]]. Also called a 'shrund.
: Advice on how to successfully complete (or protect) a particular climbing route, boulder problem, or [[Crux (climbing)|crux]] sequence. Some climbers believe that beta 'taints' an ascent.
: The clean ascent of a climb on the first attempt, having previously obtained [[#beta|beta]] or while having beta shouted up from the ground en route. Also see [[#on sight|on-sight]].
;{{anchor|bicycle}}Bicycle : A technique used to keep the feet on when climbing on [[overhang (rock formation)|overhangs]]. One foot is placed on a foothold and the other foot is placed behind the foothold in a toe hook position. The climber can now squeeze the hold between the feet.
'''<span id="bidoigt">Bidoigt</span>'''
: (French "two fingers") A climbing hold, typically a pocket or hueco, that has enough room for two fingers. See also [[#mono|mono]].
: A climb on which most parties will spend more than one day. Big wall style generally refers to hauling the needed gear (food, water, sleeping bags) in a haulbag. Instead of carrying the gear on their person, the climbers put it in the haul bag and raise it in between pitches.
: From the French "bivouac". A camp, or the act of camping, overnight while still on a climbing route off the ground. May involve nothing more than lying down or sitting on a rock ledge without any sleeping gear. When there is no rock ledge available, such as on a sheer vertical wall, a [[portaledge]] that hangs from anchors on the wall can be used.
'''<span id="bivy_bag">Bivy-bag</span>'''
: A lightweight garment or sack offering full-body protection from wind and rain.
: A point of protection permanently installed in a hole drilled into the rock, to which a metal hanger is attached, having a hole for a carabiner or ring.
: To reduce pains from heavy-duty climbing using a harness; such as long-time belaying or bolting a new route, climbers attach their harness with a special type of chair, which is usually light and has multiple high endurance straps and buckles. Similar types are also used in industrial climbing.
'''<span id="bouldering">[[Bouldering]]</span>'''
: The practice of climbing on large boulders. Typically this is close to the ground, so [[climbing protection|protection]] takes the form of [[#crash pad|crash pads]] and [[#spotting|spotting]] instead of [[belay]] ropes.
'''<span id="bridging">Bridging</span>'''
: see [[#stem|Stemming]]
'''<span id="bucket">Bucket</span>'''
: A large handhold.
'''<span id="bummer">Bummer</span>'''
: A slang word, referring to a difficult or uncomfortable hold, often one that tears the skin on the hand.
'''<span id="bump">Bump</span>'''
: A climbing technique wherein a hand or foot is moved to one hold then quickly moved up immediately to a further hold. This is often done over short distances advancing from an inferior hold to a superior one.
'''<span id="buildering">[[Buildering]]</span>'''
: The art of climbing on buildings, which is often illegal.
: A spring-loaded device used as [[protection (climbing)|protection]].
'''<span id="camming">Camming</span>'''
: Motion or position where rotation of a piece of equipment or body part presses it tight against a rock, creating friction and holding it in place. As in [[Spring-loaded camming device]], ''Heel-Toe Cammming'',<ref name=HeelToe>{{cite journal|last1=Van Leuven|first1=Chris|title=The Heel-Toe Cam|journal=Climbing|date=15 June 2012|url=http://www.climbing.com/skills/the-heel-toe-cam/|accessdate=12 December 2016}}</ref> or [[#knee bar|knee bar]] camming.<ref name=kneebar2 />
[[File:Bouldering at Lizard's Mouth in santa barbara, ca.jpg|thumb|'''Campusing''']]
: [[climbing equipment#Training equipment|Training equipment]] used to build finger strength and strong arm lock-offs.
'''<span id="carabiner">[[Carabiner]]</span>'''
: Metal rings with spring-loaded gates, used as connectors. Usually oval or roughly D shaped. Also known as ''crab'' or ''biner'' (pronounced ''kar-uh-bee-ner'').
[[File:Klimmen pofzak.jpg|thumb|'''Climbing chalk''' and a '''chalk bag''']]
'''<span id="chalk">[[Chalk]]</span>'''
: A [[chemical compound|compound]] used to improve grip by absorbing sweat. It is actually ''gymnastics chalk'', usually [[magnesium carbonate]]. Its use is controversial in some areas.
'''<span id="chalk_bag">Chalk bag</span>'''
: A hand-sized holder for a climber's chalk that is usually carried on a chalkbelt for easy access during a climb.
'''{{anchor|chestjam}}Chest jam'''
: Jamming the torso into a wide crack, for resting.
[[File:Reed's Creek - Tied off Chicken Head.JPG|thumb|Tied off '''chicken head''']]
'''<span id="chicken_head">Chicken head</span>'''
: see [[#bollard|bollard]], [[#horn|horn]].
'''{{anchor|chickenwing}}Chicken Wing'''
: This is a crack climbing technique. A hand is placed on one side of the crack and the shoulder on the other.
:# A rock cleft with vertical sides mostly parallel, large enough to fit the climber's body into. To climb such a structure, the climber often uses his head, back and feet to apply opposite pressure on the vertical walls.
:# The process of using such a technique ('''chimneying''').
'''<span id="chipping">Chipping</span>'''
: Improving a hold by permanently altering the rock, which is considered unethical and unacceptable.
'''<span id="chock">Chock</span>'''
:# A mechanical device, or a wedge, used as [[#anchor|anchors]] in cracks.
: Use of front points of [[crampons]], [[ice axe]] pick and [[#ice hammer|ice hammer]] pick to climb a slope.
'''<span id="clean">Clean</span>'''
:# To remove equipment from a route.
:# A route that is free of loose vegetation and rocks.
:# To complete a climb without falling or resting on the rope. Also see [[#redpoint|redpoint]].
:# In aid climbing, abbreviated "C", a route that does not require the use of a hammer or any invasive addition of protection (such as pitons or copperheads) into the rock (see [[#protection|protection]]).
: Artificial rock, typically in a [[#climbing gym|climbing gym]].
'''<span id="clipping_in">Clipping in</span>'''
: The process of attaching to [[#belay|belay]] lines or [[#anchor|anchors]] for [[#protection|protection]].
'''<span id="clipstick">Clipstick</span>'''
: See [[#stick clip|Stick clip]].
'''<span id="col">[[Mountain pass|Col]]</span>'''
: A small pass or "saddle" between two peaks. Excellent for navigation as when standing on one it's always down in two, opposite, directions and up in the two directions in between those.
: To ascend on a rock face by wedging body parts into cracks, i.e. not [[#face climbing|face climbing]]. See [[#jamming|jamming]] and [[#chimney|chimney]].
'''<span id="crag">Crag</span>'''
: A small area with climbing routes, often just a small cliff face or a few boulders.
'''<span id="crampons">[[Crampons]]</span>'''
: Metal framework with spikes attached to boots to increase safety on snow and ice.
'''<span id="cramponing">Cramponing</span>'''
:# Using [[crampons]] to ascend or descend on ice, preferably with maximum number of points of the crampon into the ice for weight distribution.
:# Accidentally piercing something with a crampon spike.
'''<span id="crank">Crank</span>'''
: To pull on a hold as hard as possible.
'''<span id="crash_pad">Crash pad</span>'''
: A thick mat used to soften landings or to cover hazardous objects in the event of a fall. ''See'': [[Bouldering mat]]
'''<span id="crater">Crater</span>'''
: Hitting the ground at the end of a fall instead of being caught by the rope.
[[File:BW 2012-08-26 Anna Stoehr AUS 0601.JPG|thumb|'''Cranking''' on '''crimps''']]
'''<span id="crimp">Crimp</span>'''
:# A hold which is only just big enough to be grasped with the tips of the fingers.
: A hand grip which is squeezed, over the top or around the side, between the fingers and palm, forming a cup shape with the hand, or applying this type of hold on any protrusion or [[#feature|feature]]. More commonly known as [[#guppy|guppy]].
[[File:Indoor Climbing Kid.jpg|thumb|'''Cut-loose''' or '''Cutting feet''' often result in a large swing.]]
'''<span id="cut_loose">Cut-loose</span>'''
: Where a climber's feet swing away from the rock on overhanging terrain, leaving the climber hanging only by their hands. Also known as "Cutting feet."
'''<span id="cwm">Cwm</span>'''
: ([[Welsh language|Welsh]]) A hanging valley, or [[cirque]]—a steep-walled semicircular [[Depression (geology)|basin]] in a mountain—sometimes containing a lake; also known as a [[Cirque|corrie]].
The technical difficulty {{gli|grade|grading}} system for {{gli|aid climbing}} (both for "original" and an adapted version for "new wave"), which goes: A0, A1, A2, A3, A4, A5 and up to A6 (for "new wave"). See ''{{gli|C-grade}}''.<ref name=AlpinistGrades>{{cite web | magazine=[[Alpinist (magazine)|Alpinist]] | url=http://www.alpinist.com/p/climbing_notes/grades | title=Grade Comparison Chart | date=2023 | accessdate=10 March 2023 | archive-date=30 March 2021 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210330142513/http://www.alpinist.com/p//climbing_notes/grades | url-status=dead }}</ref>}}
: A special purpose type of [[#sling|sling]] with multiple sewn or tied loops, used in aid and big wall climbing. It is designed to hold a climber's bodyweight, rather than arrest a fall, and while the sling as a whole will have a strength rating comparable to that of a standard sling, the individual loops will typically have much lower ratings.
'''<span id="dead_ball">Dead Ball</span>'''
: Type of High Ball boulder, where one can possibly die when falling from above.
'''<span id="dead_hang">Dead hang</span>'''
: To hang limp, such that weight is held by [[ligament]] tension rather than muscles.
: An object buried into snow to serve as an anchor for an attached rope. One common type of such an anchor is the [[#snow fluke|snow fluke]]. Any object that is buried in order to make an anchor, or what you become if that anchor fails.
:A dynamic [[climbing technique]] in which the hold is grabbed at the apex of upward motion. This technique places minimal strain on both the hold and the arms.
'''<span id="deck">Deck</span>'''
:# The ground.
:# To hit the ground, usually the outcome of a [[#fall|fall]].
'''<span id="deep_water_soloing">Deep Water Soloing</span>'''
: Free climbing an area that overhangs a deep enough body of water to allow for a safe fall. Often abbreviated DWS.
: A device for controlled descent on a rope. Also called a rappel device. Many [[belay device]]s may be used as descenders, including [[#ATC|ATCs]], [[#figure eight|figure eights]], or even [[#carabiner|carabiners]]. See [[#rappel|rappel]].
'''<span id="deck">Desmond</span>'''
: A ground fall (from [[Desmond Dekker]], a reggae artist and 'to deck').
: A [[pharmaceutical drug]] used in the treatment of [[high altitude cerebral edema]] as well as [[high altitude pulmonary edema]]. It is commonly carried on mountain climbing expeditions to help climbers deal with [[altitude sickness]].<ref name=MedicalProblems /> Also known as "dex".
'''<span id="dialled">Dialled</span>'''
: To have complete understanding of a particular climbing move or route.
'''<span id="diamox">[[Diamox]]</span>'''
: A drug used to inhibit the onset of [[altitude sickness]]. Otherwise known as ''acetazolamide''.<ref name=MedicalProblems />
'''<span id="diedre">Dièdre</span>'''
: A dihedral.
'''<span id="dihedral">Dihedral</span>'''
: An inside corner of rock, with more than a 90-degree angle between the faces. See also [[#corner|corner]] and [[#arete|arête]].
'''<span id="direct_aid">Direct aid</span>'''
: A type of tension climbing consisting of using one or more belay ropes to haul the leader up to the next point of protection.
'''<span id="dirtbag">Dirtbag</span>'''
: climbers living cheaply and supporting themselves through odd jobs in order to maximize the amount of time climbing. Well known practitioners of this lifestyle include [[Jan and Herb Conn]] or [[Fred Beckey]].
[[File:Hebrides climbing - The Raven.jpg|thumb|Climbers using '''Double Rope Technique''']]
'''<span id="double ropes">Double Ropes</span>''' or Half Ropes
: System where the climber is using two thin ropes instead of one thicker one. '''Double ropes''' are often used by [[#trad|trad]] and [[#alpine|alpine]] climbers. They help managing the [[#drag|rope drag]], reduce the chances for accidental cutting of the rope by sharp rock edges, and allows full pitch [[Abseiling|repelling]]. Unlike [[#twin ropes|twin ropes]], double ropes can be clipped separately into different pieces.<ref name="stephdavis.co">{{cite web|last1=Davis|first1=Steph|title=Straight From the Mammoth’s Mouth: Half Ropes Are Not Twins {{!}} Steph Davis – High Places|url=http://stephdavis.co/blog/straight-from-the-mammoths-mouth-half-ropes-are-not-twins/|website=Steph Davis – High Places|accessdate=9 December 2016|date=25 April 2011}}</ref>
: A method used primarily by tree climbers where the rope passes over a support/limb and continuously slides over the limb as the climber ascends or descends.
'''<span id="downclimb">Downclimb</span>'''
: To descend by climbing downward, typically after completing a climb.
'''<span id="dropknee">Drop Knee</span>'''
: See [[#egyptian|Egyptian]].
'''<span id="drag">Drag</span>''' or rope drag
: Rope drag occurs when the [[friction]] generated from the rope running over the rock and through the quickdraws builds up to the point where it is difficult move or to pull up the rope to clip into protection. There are several ways to prevent rope drag: protection placement that minimizes zig-zaging of the rope and potential for rope being pinched or hooked on a rock, use of long quickdraws like 24 inch ''alpine draws'' and use of [[#double ropes|double ropes]].<ref>{{cite journal|last1=Ellison|first1=Julie|title=Extension Basics|journal=Climbing|date=11 January 2013|url=http://www.climbing.com/skills/extension-basics/|accessdate=9 December 2016}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Preventing Rope Drag|url=http://www.climbingtechniques.org/preventing-rope-drag.html|website=ClimbingTechniques.org|accessdate=9 December 2016}}</ref>
: Using tools for [[ice climbing]] like [[crampon]]s and [[ice axe]]s on rock.
'''<span id="dülfersitz">[[Dülfersitz]]</span>'''
: A method of '''[[rappelling]]''', without mechanical tools, where the uphill rope is straddled by the climber then looped around a hip, across the chest, over the opposite (weak) shoulder, and held with the downhill (strong) hand to adjust the shoulder friction and thus the descending speed.
: Technique of stopping a long fall using smooth braking to reduce stress on the protection points and avoid unnecessary trauma from an abrupt stop.
'''<span id="dynamic_rope">Dynamic rope</span>'''
: A slightly elastic [[rope]] that softens falls to some extent. Also tend to be damaged less severely by heavy loads. Compare with [[#static rope|static rope]].
[[File:Boulder Worldcup Vienna 29-05-2010b final11 Tsukuru Hori.jpg|thumb|'''Dynamic motion''' usually means two or even one point of contact with the wall.]]
: Any move in which body momentum is used to progress. As opposed to ''static technique'' where three-point suspension and slow, controlled movement is the rule.
: Tightly gripping handholds, simultaneously flagging out both legs then proceeding to violently kick downwards and inwards in a desperate attempt to produce upwards motion; making the climber resemble an explosive bottom feeder {{Citation needed|date=September 2016}}.
[[File:Conrad mathias 1815.JPG|thumb|Preparing for a '''dyno''']]
'''<span id="dyno">Dyno</span>'''
: A dynamic move to grab a hold that would otherwise be out of reach. Generally both feet will leave the rock face and return again once the target hold is caught. Non-climbers would call it a jump or a leap.
A type of {{gli|anchor}} used in {{gli|abseiling}} especially in winter and in {{gli|ice climbing}}.
'''<span id="edging">Edging</span>'''
}}
: Using the edge of the [[climbing shoe]] on a foothold. In the absence of footholds, [[#smearing|smearing]] is used.
[[File:GautierSupper-3.JPG|thumb|'''Egyptian''' or '''drop knee''']]
'''<span id="egyptian">Egyptian</span>'''
: Method for reducing muscle strain in arms when holding a side grip. One knee ends up in a lower position with the body twisted towards the other leg. It can give a longer reach as the body and shoulders twist towards a hold. Also known as a "drop knee."
: A [[bouldering]] move or series of moves in which either certain holds are placed 'off bounds' or other artificial restrictions are imposed.
'''<span id="elvis_legs">Elvis legs</span>'''
: Wobbly knees resulting from tired legs. See [[#sewing machine leg|Sewing machine leg]].
'''<span id="epic">Epic</span>'''
: An ordinary climb rendered difficult by a dangerous combination of weather, injuries, darkness, lack of preparedness or other adverse factors. See [[#punter|Punter]].
'''<span id="european_death_knot">[[European Death Knot]] (EDK)</span>'''
: A flat overhand used to join a pair of ropes for retrievable abseils. So named as the technique originated in Europe and the Americans initially distrusted it.
: Empty space below a climber, usually referring to a great distance a climber is above the ground or large ledge, or the psychological sense of this distance due to being unprotected, or because the rock angles away due to climbing an [[#arete|arête]] or [[overhang (rock formation)|overhang]]. Exposure can also refer to exposure to the elements, like wind, snow, or sun.
A term used to describe a {{gli|progress capture device}} or a {{gli|self-locking device}} such as a [[Grigri (climbing)|Petzl GriGri]] that immediately locks if the rope travels through it quickly in a specific direction. See ''{{gli|auto belay}}''.}}
: To ascend a vertical rock face using finger holds, edges and smears, i.e. not [[#crack climbing|crack climbing]].
'''<span id="fall">Fall</span>'''
: To unintentionally descend under the influence of gravity. Hopefully stopped by a rope.
'''<span id="Feet_follow">Feet follow</span>'''
: An instruction on indoor bouldering routes requiring foot movements match preceding hand movements, with no intermediate moves.
'''<span id="feature">Feature</span>'''
: A protrusion or indentation on an indoor climbing wall which is permanently moulded into the wall itself.
'''<span id="ferrata">[[Via Ferrata]]</span>'''
: A route on a mountain where the safety is provided by steel ropes or chains, permanently fixated to the rock. The progression is often aided by artificial steps or ladders. Typically found in the Alps, also called Klettersteig.
[[File:2016 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour Cheongsong - 59.jpg|thumb|'''Figure four''']]
'''<span id="figure_four">Figure four</span>'''
: Advanced climbing technique where the climber hooks a leg over the opposite arm, and then pushes down with this leg to achieve a greater vertical reach. Requires strength and a solid handhold.
[[File:Abseilachter mit Seil.JPG|thumb|'''Figure eight''']]
'''<span id="figure_eight">Figure eight</span>'''
: A [[Belay device#Figure eight|belay device]] or descender shaped like an "8".
: A type of [[#jam|jam]] using the hand. See [[climbing technique]].
'''<span id="fixed_rope">Fixed rope</span>'''
: A rope which has a fixed attachment point. Commonly used for [[#abseil|abseiling]] or [[#aid climbing|aid climbing]].
'''<span id="flagging">Flagging</span>'''
: Climbing technique where a leg is held in a position to maintain balance, rather than to support weight. Often useful to prevent [[#barn-door|barn-dooring]]. There are three types of flagging:
:# Normal flag: Where the flagging foot stays on the same side (e.g. flagging with the right foot out to the right side of the body)
:# Reverse inside flag: Where the flagging foot is crossed in front of the foot that is on a foothold
:# Reverse outside flag: Where the flagging foot is crossed behind the foot that is on a foothold
'''<span id="flake">Flake</span>'''
:# A thin slab of rock detached from the main face.
:# A method of untangling a rope in which the rope is run through the climber's hands and allowed to fall into a pile on the ground. Useful when preparing a rope for coiling, or before starting a [[lead climbing|lead climb]], to ensure the rope is fed cleanly and without twists. Often called "flaking out" a rope.
'''<span id="flapper">Flapper</span>'''
: An injury consisting of a piece of loose (flapping) skin. A climber will usually just repair these with sticky tape or super glue.
'''<span id="flash">Flash</span>'''
: To successfully and [[#clean|cleanly]] complete a climbing route on the first attempt after having received [[#beta|beta]] of some form. Also refers to an ascent of this type. For ascents on the first attempt without receiving beta see [[#on sight|on-sight]].
'''<span id="flat_lander">Flat-lander</span>'''
: Non-climber.
'''<span id="flute">Flute</span>'''
: A usually insecure fin or flake of rock or ice.
'''<span id="follow">Follow</span>'''
: What the [[#second|second]] does.
'''<span id="font">Font</span>'''
: The French [[bouldering]] grading system.
'''{{anchor|footjam}}Foot jam'''
: Also known as the heel-to-toe jam. It involves jamming the foot into a larger crack by twisting the foot into place, the contact with the crack being on the heel and toes.
'''<span id="fourteener">[[Fourteener]]</span>'''
: Mountain that tops {{convert|14000|ft|m}} in the contiguous United States.
'''<span id="free_base">Free base</span>'''
: Climbing with your only protection being a parachute that is deployed in the event of a fall. A combination of free soloing, and BASE jumping.
:# Climbing without unnatural aids, other than used for [[#protection|protection]].
:# Often incorrectly used by non-climbers as a synonym for soloing.
'''<span id="free_solo">[[Free solo climbing|Free solo]]</span>'''
: Climbing without aid or protection. This typically means climbing without a rope.
'''<span id="french_free">French free</span>'''
: Also known as ''French climbing'', or ''French freeing'', it is the use of [[aid climbing]] techniques to bypass a section due to climbing difficulty, rock conditions, etc.; typically for only a short section of the total climb.<ref>{{cite web | title=French Free Climbing
| url=http://climbing.about.com/od/dictionaryofclimbing/a/FrenchFreeDef.htm | publisher=[[About.com]] | author=Stewart Green | accessdate=2009-08-14}}</ref>
'''<span id="frenchies">Frenchies</span>'''
: An exercise used to develop lock-off strength consisting of pull-ups that stop with the elbows locked at angles between 20 and 160 degrees.
'''<span id="friable_rock">Friable</span>'''
: Delicate and easily broken rock, often dangerous.
'''<span id="friction">Friction</span>'''
: Climbing technique relying on the [[friction]] between the sloped rock and the sole of the shoe to support the climber's weight, as opposed using holds or edges, cracks, etc.
[[File:Climbing gear - Wild Country Friends - 06.jpg|thumb|Early Wild Country rigid '''Friends''']]
'''<span id="friend">Friend</span>'''
: A name brand of a type of [[spring-loaded camming device]] (SLCD) made by Wild Country, sometimes used to refer to any type of spring-loaded camming device.
{{term|[[abseiling]]}}
== G ==
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''rappelling'''.}}
'''<span id="gaston">Gaston</span>'''
A technique by which a climber descends via a {{gli|fixed rope}} that is firmly attached to a fixed {{gli|anchor}} point, which is also known as an "abseil station". See ''{{gli|tat}}'' and ''{{gli|cord}}''.}}
: A climbing grip using one hand with the thumb down and elbow out, often thought of as a reverse [[#side pull|side pull]]. The grip maintains friction against a hold by pressing outward toward the elbow.
'''<span id="gaston">Gate Flutter</span>'''
: The action of the gate on a carabiner opening during a fall.
'''<span id="gendarme">Gendarme</span>'''
: A pinnacle or isolated rock tower frequently encountered along a ridge.
: A modified [[#dulfersitz|dulfersitz]] rappel using the hip and downhill arm for friction, rather than the chest and shoulder, offering less complexity, but less friction and less control. 'Geneva Style' is also a description used in Australia for what is commonly referred to elsewhere as 'Australian Rappelling'.
: When a climber is cleaning a route and forgets to pull out a piece or unclip the rope and begins to climb above the piece rendering the top rope ineffective.
'''<span id="gorp">Gorp</span>'''
: [[Trail mix]] for periodic nibbling to keep high energy level between meals on long climbs or hikes.
'''<span id="grade">Grade</span>'''
:# Intended as an objective measure of the technical difficulty of a particular [[Grade (climbing)|climb]] or [[Grade (bouldering)|bouldering]] problem. More often is highly subjective, however.
:# The slope of an incline. ([[Grade (geography)]])
'''<span id="graunchy">Graunchy</span>'''
: A route (often off-width) requiring the use of unconventional and uncomfortable techniques.
'''<span id="green_point">Green Point</span>'''
: Climbing a sport route with the use of traditional gear.
: A [[belay device]] designed to be easy to use and safer for beginners because it is assisted-braking under load. Invented and manufactured by [[Petzl]]. Many experienced climbers advocate the use of an atc type device for beginners.
'''<span id="gripped">Gripped</span>'''
: Scared. Also over gripping the rock.
'''<span id="gronked">Gronked</span>'''
: Accidentally going off-route while leading and becoming lost on a rock face in an area much more difficult than the climb being attempted. The word arises from the climb "Gronk" in [[Avon Gorge]] which is notorious for this.
'''<span id="grovel">Grovel</span>'''
: To climb with obviously poor style or technique.
: A climbing route judged to be without redeeming virtue.
'''<span id="gumby">Gumby</span>'''
: An inexperienced, unknowledgeable and oblivious climber; is a derogatory term. Gumbies are incapable of learning.
'''<span id="guppy">Guppy</span>'''
: Synonym for [[#cup|cup]], commonly used in [[bouldering]].
'''<span id="gym_climbing">Gym climbing</span>'''
: Climbing indoors, on artificial climbing walls. This is typically for training but many people consider this a worthwhile activity in its own right.
'''<span id="grease_ball">Grease ball</span>'''
: A route that has become climbed excessively, causing the rock to become slippery or "greasy".
: High Altitude [[Cerebral Edema]] – a severe, and often fatal, form of [[altitude sickness]].<ref name=MedicalProblems />
'''<span id="hamster">Hamster</span>'''
: The act of pulling oneself up with both arms parallel in front of your chest. Resembles a Hamster during feeding. ''That sloper required some hamstering to get to the next move.''
'''<span id="handjam">Handjam</span>'''
: Making progress by inserting the hand (usually vertically with the thumb uppermost) into a crack and then pushing the thumb downwards towards the palm. This expands the hand and can make a highly secure placement. In the UK this move was credited with facilitating the advances in free climbing in the late 1940s and 50s made by climbers such as [[Joe Brown (climber)|Joe Brown]] and [[Don Whillans]] although they did not invent it.'
: A sewn nylon webbing device worn around the waist and thighs that is designed to allow a person to safely hang suspended in the air.
[[File:Haul bag.jpg|thumb|'''Haul bag''']]
'''<span id="haul_bag">Haul bag</span>'''
: A large and often unwieldy bag into which supplies and climbing equipment may be thrown.
'''<span id="headpoint">Headpoint</span>'''
: The practice of [[top-roping]] a hard trad route before leading it cleanly.
'''<span id="headwall">Headwall</span>'''
: A region at the top of a cliff or rock face that steepens dramatically.
[[File:Coopers Rock, WV - Tomb Raider Roof - 2.jpg|thumb|'''Heel hook''']]
; {{anchor|heelhook}}Heel hook : Using the back of the [[heel]] to apply pressure to a [[Climbing hold|hold]], for balance or leverage; this technique requires pulling with the heel of a foot by flexing the hamstring. This technique is notable since in most forms of climbing one uses the toes to push.
'''<span id="heeltoe">Heel-toe</span>'''
: A combination of a toe hook and heel hook. Also known as a heel-toe cam, involves using opposing pressure from the toes and heel between two [[Climbing hold|holds]] to hold the body on the wall.
'''<span id="helmet">[[Helmet]]</span>'''
: Also known as a ''brain bucket'' or ''skid lid''. It can save your life, but only while worn.
[[File:Climbing gear - Black Diamond Hexes - 08.jpg|thumb|A set of '''hexes''']]
'''<span id="hexcentric">Hexcentric</span>'''
: A [[#protection|protective device]]. It is an eccentric hexagonal [[#nut|nut]] attached to a wire loop. The nut is inserted into a crack and it holds through counter-pressure. Often just called ''Hex''.
: A tall boulder problem. Falling becomes more dangerous due to the increase in height.
'''<span id="himalaism">Himalaism</span>'''
: Climbing grown in the Himalayas. In a broader sense this Himalayan mountaineering climbing, similar as to the nature of climbing in the Himalayas, but also grown in other high mountains, where the height of the peaks above 7000 meters above sea level are the Karakoram, Kunlun, Hindu Kush, Pamir, Tien Shan, Daxue Shan.
: A place to temporarily cling, grip, jam, press, or stand in the process of climbing.
'''<span id="hms">HMS Carabiner</span>'''
: A round-ended [[carabiner]] for use with a [[Munter hitch]] (from the German name for the hitch; ''Halbmastwurfsicherung'').
'''<span id="honed">Honed</span>'''
: To be in peak mental and physical fitness for climbing.
'''<span id="hook">Hook</span>'''
:# [[climbing equipment|Equipment]] used in [[#aid climbing|aid climbing]].
:# A [[climbing technique]] involving hooking a heel or toe against a hold in order to balance or to provide additional support.
'''<span id="horn">Horn</span>'''
: Large, pointed protrusion of rock that can be slung. Typically also makes a good handhold. Known in the UK as a "Spike". See [[#bollard|bollard]], [[#chicken head|chicken head]].
'''<span id="hueco">Hueco</span>'''
: (Spanish ''hueco'' "hole") A climbing hold consisting of a pocket in the rock, typically round and deep and featuring a positive lip. Huecos vary in size from accommodating a single finger (this is also called a "mono") to large enough to fit one's entire body. The term ''hueco'' entered the jargon of rock climbers from the Texas climbing area [[Hueco Tanks]] that is famous for this sort of hold.
{{term|add-on}}
== I ==
{{defn|An indoor climbing game where climbers take turns creating a route, adding two moves at a time.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Training: 16 Climbing Games |first1=Julie |last1=Ellison |first2=JP |last2=Whitehead |work=Climbing |date=28 April 2016 |access-date=20 May 2019 |url= https://www.climbing.com/skills/training-16-climbing-games/ }}</ref>}}
'''<span id="ice_axe">[[Ice axe]]</span>'''
: A handy tool for safety and balance, having a pick/adze head and a spike at the opposite end of a shaft.
: A lightweight [[ice axe]] with a hammer/pick head on a short handle and no spike.
[[File:EishakenSchrauben.JPG|thumb|'''Ice pitons''' on the left and '''Ice screw''' on the right.]]
'''<span id="ice_piton">Ice piton</span>'''
: Long, wide, serrated [[piton]] once used for weak protection on ice.
'''<span id="ice_screw">[[Ice screw]]</span>'''
: A screw used to protect a climb over steep ice or for setting up a [[crevasse rescue]] system. The strongest and most reliable is the modern tubular ice screw which ranges in length from 18 to 23 cm.
'''<span id="ice_tool">[[Ice tool]]</span>'''
: A specialized elaboration of the modern ice axe (and often described broadly as an ice axe or technical axe), used in ice climbing, mostly for the more difficult configurations.
[[File:Coyne Crack 5.11+ - Supercrack Buttress - Indian Creek.jpg|thumb|Hand '''jamming''']]
'''<span id="jamming">Jamming</span>'''
: Wedging a body part into a crack.
'''<span id="jib">Jib</span>'''
: A particularly small foothold, usually only large enough for the big toe, sometimes relying heavily on friction to support weight.
'''<span id="jug">Jug</span>'''
: A shortened term for Jug Hold, both noun and verb.
'''<span id="jug_hold">Jug hold</span>'''
: A large, easily held hold. Also known simply as a ''jug''.
'''<span id="jumar">[[Jumar]]</span>'''
:# A type of mechanical [[#ascender|ascender]].
:# To ascend a rope using a mechanical ascender.
{{term|active protection}}
== K ==
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''active camming device''' or '''ACD'''}}
'''<span id="karen">Karen</span>'''
Type of {{gli|protection}} that dynamically changes to absorb the shape and strength of a fall; active protection is the opposite of {{gli|passive protection}}. See ''{{gli|cam}}s'' and ''{{gli|friend}}s''.}}
: An alternative to the [[#prusik|Prusik knot]], useful when the climber is short of cord but has plenty of webbing.
[[File:Hueco Tanks - Schwerer Gustav - V11.webm|thumb|thumbtime=12|'''Knee bar''' used in bouldering]]
'''<span id="knee bar">Knee Bar</span>''' or Kneebar
: Involves [[#camming|camming]] your lower thigh or knee against a protruding section of rock, usually with the foot pushing against an opposing hold. Kneebars can be very secure and are one of few ways to get a no-hand rest on overhanging rock. They also can provide additional hold on a climb.<ref name=kneebar2>{{cite web|last1=Buys|first1=Jordan|title=Use your knees!|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3154|website=UKClimbing.com|accessdate=12 December 2016}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|last1=Climbing|first1=Send|title=Kneebar knowledge|url=http://www.sendclimbing.com/pages/all-about-kneebars|website=Send Climbing|accessdate=12 December 2016}}</ref>
'''<span id="knee drop">Knee Drop</span>'''
: See [[#egyptian|Egyptian]].
'''<span id="knots">[[Knot]]s</span>'''
: Climbers rely on many different knots for anchoring oneself to a mountain, joining two ropes together, slings for climbing up the rope, etc.
: A form of climbing in which the climber clips the belay rope into quickdraws or similar equipment attached to the wall by means of anchors. In traditional climbing, the climber also needs to place anchors and quickdraws. In sport climbing, the anchors are typically preplaced, and the quickdraws may either be preplaced or placed by the climber.
'''<span id="leader_fall">Leader Fall</span>'''
: A fall while [[lead climbing]]. A fall from above the climber's last piece of protection. The falling leader will fall at least twice the distance back to his or her last piece, plus slack and rope stretch.
'''<span id="leashless">Leashless</span>'''
: Ice climbing with your axes not being attached to your wrist, if you drop them they're gone, but the trade off is greater mobility
: A liquid form of chalk with a longer hold time than normal chalk. It is used on very hard routes and competitions, where the act of rechalking requires too much energy or time.
: A [[#carabiner|carabiner]] with a locking gate, to prevent accidental release of the rope.
'''<span id="lock_off">Lock-off</span>'''
: Using tendon strength to support weight on a handhold without tiring muscles too much.
'''<span id="low_angle">Low-Angle</span>'''
: A face climb that is less than vertical; the opposite of an [[overhang (rock formation)|overhang]] or [[roof (rock formation)|roof]]. The same as "slab".
{{term|[[aid climbing]]}}
== M ==
{{defn|Type of rock climbing where artificial devices are used to make upward progress (and not just for {{gli|protection}}); opposite of {{gli|free climbing}}. See ''{{gli|clean aid climbing}}''.}}
[[File:Rat rock 2 020.jpg|thumb|'''Mantel''' move]]
'''<span id="mantel">Mantel (abbreviation of ''mantelshelf'')</span>'''
: A move used to surmount a ledge or feature in the rock in the absence of any useful holds directly above. It involves pushing down on a ledge or feature instead of pulling oneself up. In ice climbing, manteling is done by moving the hands from the shaft to the top of the [[ice tool]] and pushing down on the head of the tool.
'''<span id="mantlerope">Mantle</span>'''
: The external covering of a climbing [[rope]]. Climbing ropes use [[kernmantle rope|kernmantle]] construction consisting of a kern (or core) for strength and an external sheath called the mantle.
'''<span id="match">Match</span>'''
: To use one hold for two limbs.
'''<span id="merkel">Merkel</span>'''
: To retrieve another climbers gear because he or she is unable to or because it would be more convenient.
'''<span id="moat">Moat</span>'''
: A [[crevasse]] that forms where the glacier pulls away from a rock formation.
'''<span id="mono">Mono</span>'''
: (French ''monodoigt'' 'single finger') A climbing hold, typically a pocket or hueco, that only has enough room for one finger.
: The search and rescue activities that occur in a mountainous environment, although the term sometimes also applies to search and rescue in other wilderness environments. Also ''see'' [[rescue doctrine]].
'''<span id="move">Move</span>'''
: Application of a specific [[climbing technique]] to progress on a climb.
: Method of climbing – used on easy Alpine ground – in which two or more climbers climb at the same time with running [[belay]]s between them and fixed belays not being used. Similar to simulclimbing, a technique for steeper terrain.
: Climbing on routes that are too long for a single [[#belay|belay]] rope.
'''<span id="munter">[[Munter hitch]]</span>'''
: A simple [[List of hitch knots|hitch]] that is often used for [[#belay|belaying]] without a mechanical belay device. Otherwise known as an ''Italian hitch'' or a ''friction hitch''.
{{term|aider}}
== N ==
{{defn|See ''{{gli|etrier}}''.}}
'''<span id="neve">Névé</span>'''
: Permanent granular ice formed by repeated freeze-thaw cycles.
: Danger in a climbing situation which comes from hazards inherent in the location of the climb, not depending on the climber's skill level. Most often these involve falling rock or ice, or avalanches.
'''<span id="off_belay">Off belay</span>'''
: Called by a climber when requesting that the belayer remove belay equipment from the climbing rope (for example, when cleaning top protection from a lead route). Replied to with [[#belay off|Belay off]].
[[File:Creeks Giving - Climbing in Indian Creek, Utah - 23.jpg|thumb|'''Off-width''' climbing]]
'''<span id="off_width">Off-width</span>'''
: A crack that is too wide for effective hand or foot [[#am|jams]], but is not as large as a [[#chimney|chimney]].
'''<span id="on_belay">On belay</span>'''
: What an American climber calls when he is ready to be belayed. Replied to with [[#belay on|Belay on]].
'''<span id="on_sight">On-sight</span>'''
: A [[#clean|clean]] ascent, with no prior practice or [[#beta|beta]]. For ascents on the first attempt with receiving beta see [[#flash|flash]].
'''<span id="open_book">Open book</span>'''
: An inside angle in the rock. See also [[#dihedral|dihedral]].
: A section of rock or ice that is angled beyond vertical. See [[#roof|roof]].
{{term|[[Grade (climbing)#International French adjectival system (IFAS)|Alpine-grade]]}}
== P ==
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''IFAS grade''', and '''UIAA Scale of Difficulty'''}}
'''<span id="panic_bear">Panic Bear</span>'''
Part of the {{gli|alpine climbing}} system for {{gli|grade|grading}} the technical difficulty of alpine climbing routes, which goes: F ("facile/easy"), PD ("peu difficile/little difficult"), AD ("assez difficile/fairly hard"), D ("difficile/difficult"), TD ("très difficile/very hard"), and ED ("extrêmement difficile/extremely difficult"); ED then goes ED1, ED2, ED3, .. etc.<ref name=AlpinistGrades/><ref name=CAI>{{cite book | first1=Gabriele |last1=Mandelli |first2=A |last2=Angriman | date=2016 | title=Scales of Difficulty in Mountaineering | publisher=Central School of Mountaineering, Italy |s2cid=53358088 }}</ref> }}
: A panicking novice climber clinging to handholds while searching desperately for a foothold.
: A short, light sleeping bag covering the lower half of the body only. It is designed to be used in connection with a down jacket for lightweight bivvies.
'''<span id="pied_en_canard">Pied en canard</span>'''
: A crampon technique in the French style: to walk on moderate-angle ice with toes pointed outward; literally, 'duck-footed'.
'''<span id="pied_marche">Pied marche</span>'''
: A crampon technique in the French style: to walk on low-angle ice with toes pointed straight ahead.
: This is a hold where you must pinch it to hold on. They come in various sizes.
'''<span id="pinkpoint">Pinkpoint</span>'''
: To complete a [[#lead climbing|lead climb]] without falling or resting on the rope ([[#hangdog|hangdogging]]), but with pre-placed [[protection (climbing)|protection]] and [[carabiner]]s. Also see [[#clean|clean]] and [[#redpoint|redpoint]].
: In the strictest climbing definition, a pitch is considered one rope length {{convert|50|–|60|m|ft}}. However, in guide books and route descriptions, a pitch is the portion of a climb between two [[#belay|belay]] points.
[[File:Profilhaken.jpg|thumb|'''Piton''']]
'''<span id="piton">[[Piton]]</span>'''
: A flat or angled metal blade of steel which incorporates a clipping hole for a carabiner or a ring in its body. A piton is typically used in aid-climbing and an appropriate size and shape is hammered into a thin crack in the rock and preferably removed by the last team member.
: Clip-on string fastened to piton when inserting or removing, so as to avoid loss.
'''<span id="plunge_step">Plunge step</span>'''
: An aggressive step pattern for descending on hard or steep angle snow.
'''<span id="pof">Pof</span>'''
: An alternative to chalk made from pine resin. Popular in Fontainebleau but discouraged (or actively forbidden) everywhere else since it deposits a thick, shiny resin layer on the rock and friction can only be achieved by using more pof.
'''<span id="polish">Polish</span>'''
: On popular routes, the sheer passage of traffic can polish the rock to such an extent as to make the climbing much more difficult. This is most noticeable at the [[Crux (climbing)|crux]], and more common on certain rock types.
'''<span id="poop tube">Poop tube</span>'''
: Container for carrying out your feces during multi-day climb. The Poop Tube is made of [[PVC]] tubing, with a sealed end at the bottom and a screw top. It has a loop attaching screw top to the body of the tube and a [[webbing]] so it can be clipped below the [[Rock-climbing equipment#Haul bag|haul bag]].<ref>{{cite web|title=Definition: Poop Tube|url=http://www.davidlnelson.md/ElCapitan/DefinitionPoopTube.htm|website=www.davidlnelson.md|accessdate=8 December 2016}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=How to Make a Poop Tube|url=http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Poop-Tube|website=wikiHow|accessdate=8 December 2016}}</ref>
'''<span id="positive">Positive</span>'''
: A hold or part of a hold, having a surface facing upwards, or away from the direction it is pulled, facilitating use. ''Positive'' hold is an opposite to a [[#sloper|sloper]].
: Forcefully exhaling to facilitate O2/CO2 exchange at altitude. Also called the "Whittaker wheeze".
[[File:Joshua Tree bouldering - Stem Gem 2.jpg|thumb|''Stem Gem'' is a classic V4 boulder '''problem''' first climbed by [[John Bachar]] in [[Joshua Tree National Park]].<ref>{{cite web|title=Stem Gem|url=https://www.mountainproject.com/v/stem-gem/105722608|website=Mountain Project|accessdate=8 December 2016}}</ref>]]
'''<span id="problem">Problem</span>'''
: ''Boulder problem'' or ''problem'' is used in [[#bouldering|bouldering]] to indicate the path that a climber takes in order to complete the climb. Same as [[#route|route]] in roped climbing.
'''<span id="project">Project</span>'''
: A potential new route or bouldering problem that is being attempted, but has not seen a first ascent yet.
: To climb a wall [[Toprope]] with having another rope connected to the climber, for practice of [[Lead climbing]] [[#clipping in|clipping]]. The other rope is normally not connected to any [[belaying|belayer]] below and is only there to practice the [[#clipping in|clipping]]. Usually practiced while learning how to Lead Climb. Also commonly referred to as "mock leading".
: A piece of protection that everyone knows will not hold a fall, but makes the climber feel better about having gear beneath them anyhow.
'''<span id="pumped">Pumped</span>'''
:
# To have such an accumulation of metabolic waste products in the forearm, that forming even a basic grip becomes impossible. A climber who is pumped will find it difficult to hold on, and may struggle to lift or clip a rope.
# (Psychology) A feeling of anticipation and energy before a challenging climb.
'''<span id="punter">Punter</span>'''
: An over-ambitious and under-prepared climber.
'''<span id="purchase">Purchase</span>'''
: To have a solid grip on a hold or feature. "I had good purchase on that jug."
{{term|alpine knee}}
== Q ==
{{defn|An awkward [[climbing technique]] where the knee is placed on the hold rather than the foot.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Total Body Climbing: Use All Your Body Parts for Smart, Savvy Climbing |first=Heather |last=Weidner |work=Climbing |date=11 November 2018 |access-date=20 May 2019 |url= https://www.climbing.com/skills/total-body-climbing-use-all-your-body-parts-for-smart-savvy-climbing/ }}</ref>}}
'''<span id="quickdraw">[[Quickdraw]]</span>'''
: Used to attach a freely running rope to [[#anchor|anchors]] or [[#chock|chocks]]. Sometimes called ''quickies'', ''draws'', or ''extenders''.
'''<span id="quicklink">[[Quicklink]]</span>'''
: A screw-type oval-shape stainless steel carabiner which is smaller than normal oval-shape biner, particularly used for attaching to the chains of the master anchor. Also known as a ''[[maillon]]'' or ''maillon rapide''.
{{term|alpine start}}
== R ==
{{defn|Starting a climb very early in the morning, generally before 5:00{{spaces}}a.m. (and even much earlier); common to {{gli|alpine climbing}} to avoid afternoon rockfalls and melting snow on the route, or to get firmer ice on the glacier travel to and from the route.<ref name=UKC/>}}
[[File:Trad rack.jpg|thumb|Trad '''rack''']]
'''<span id="rack">Rack</span>'''
: The set of equipment carried up a climb; also, the part of a harness (consisting of several plastic loops) where equipment is hung, ready to be used.
'''<span id="rappel">[[Abseil|Rappel]]</span>'''
: The process by which a climber may descend on a fixed rope using a friction device. Also known as ''abseil'' or ''roping down''.
'''<span id="rb">RB</span>'''
: A removable bolt, similar in concept to a sliding nut, but shaped to fit into a drilled hole.
: To complete while placing protection on a [[#lead climbing|lead climb]] after making previous unsuccessful attempts, done without falling or resting on the rope ([[#hangdog|hangdogging]]). Also see [[#clean|clean]] and [[#pinkpoint|pinkpoint]].
'''<span id="rest_step">Rest step</span>'''
: Energy-saving technique where unweighted (uphill) leg is rested between each forward step, sometimes by "locking" knee of rear leg.
: To clip into the first piece of protection from the ground by swinging a loop of rope so that it is caught by a carabiner. This can only be done when the first piece of gear is already placed.
[[File:Elizabeth Furnace - Furnass 12a - 8.jpg|thumb|Climbing over a '''roof''']]
: A steep overhang which transitions sharply into shallower climbing often blocking direct sight of the feet causing the climber to find footholds blindly.
'''<span id="rope">[[Rope]]</span>'''
: A basic item of [[climbing equipment]] that physically connects the climber to the belayer.
'''<span id="rope_gun">Rope gun</span>'''
: The most capable climber in the group. The person who can get the rope up there for the rest of the party.
'''<span id="rope_jumping">Rope jumping</span>'''
: Jumping from objects using rock climbing equipment.
'''<span id="rope_team">[[Rope team]]</span>'''
: Also roped team or roped party. Team of mountaineers or climbers joined together by a safety rope.
'''<span id="route">Route</span>'''
: The path of a particular climb, or a predefined set of moves.
'''<span id="rp">RP</span>'''
: A small nut, named after Roland Pauligk. Not certified for sale in Europe.
'''<span id="runner">Runner</span>'''
: Made of nylon and nylon/blend materials, runners, also referred to as slings, are used by climbers for a multitude of purposes.
[[File:Fotothek df ps 0002300 Sport ^ Klettersport.jpg|thumb|A '''runout''']]
'''<span id="runout">Runout</span>'''
:# A lengthy distance between two points of [[#protection|protection]] which in some, but not all, cases might be perceived as frightening or dangerous. May also be used as an adjective to describe a route, or a section of a route.
:# A long portion of a [[#route|route]] with minimal [[#protection|protection]].
[[File:RURP by Tom Frost.jpg|thumb|'''RURP''']]
'''<span id="rurp">RURP</span>'''
: Acronym, stands for Realized Ultimate Reality Piton. Miniature, postage-stamp sized [[piton]] originally designed by [[Yvon Chouinard]]
{{term|[[alpine style]]}}
== S ==
{{defn|Carrying all your own gear (even for multi-day climbs); also called "light-weight" climbing; opposite of {{gli|expedition style}}.}}
'''<span id="saddle">Saddle</span>'''
: A high pass between two peaks, larger than a [[#col|col]].
'''<span id="sandbag">Sandbag</span>'''
: A climb which receives a much lower [[#grade|grade]] than deserved. Also used as a verb when referring to the act of describing a climbing route as easier than it actually is.
'''<span id="sardar">[[Sardar]] or Sirdar</span>'''
: Head [[Sherpa (people)|Sherpa]] mountain guide.
'''<span id="scend">'scend</span>'''
: contraction of the word ascend, past tense: 'scended. {{crossref|printworthy=y|See also [[#send|send]].}}
: The intense feeling of disappointment when finding a difficult crux after a jug or good handhold.
'''<span id="scrambling">[[Scrambling]]</span>'''
: A type of climbing somewhere between hiking and graded rock climbing.
'''<span id="screamer">Screamer</span>'''
:# A long and loud [[#fall|fall]].
:# A nylon webbing structure consisting of one large loop sewn in multiple places to make a shorter length. The stitch-points are intentionally sewn with less than maximum possible strength. The screamer is attached with carabiners between an anchor point, particularly one of dubious strength, and the climber. In the event of a fall the stitching of the sewn sections is designed to rip apart, absorbing some of the fall energy and decelerating the climber, thereby reducing the overall shock load on the dubious anchor. Screamer is a brand name of Yates Mountaineering.
'''<span id="scree">[[Scree]]</span>'''
: Small, loose, broken rocks, often at the base of a cliff. Also an area or slope covered in scree. Scree is distinguished from Talus by its smaller size and looser configuration.
'''<span id="screw_on">Screw on</span>'''
: A small climbing hold, screwed onto the wall in climbing gyms. Can be used for feet in a route regardless of its colour. Also referred to as a foot chip, chip or micro.
'''<span id="second">Second</span>'''
: A climber who follows the [[#lead climbing|lead]], or first, climber.
'''<span id="self_arrest">Self-Arrest</span>'''
: The act of planting the pick of your ice axe into the snow to arrest a fall in the event of a slip. Also a method of stopping in a controlled glissade.
: The involuntary vibration of one or both legs resulting from fatigue or panic. Also known as ''scissor leg'', ''Elvis Presley syndrome'', or ''disco knee''. Can often be remedied by bringing the heel of the offending leg down, changing the muscles used to support the weight of the climber
'''<span id="sharp_end">Sharp end</span>'''
: The end of the [[#belay|belay]] rope that is attached to the [[#lead climbing|lead]] climber. ''Being on the sharp end'' refers to the act of lead climbing, which is considered more psychologically demanding than top-roping or following, since it may involve more route-finding, as well as the possibility of longer, more consequential falls.
: A Sherpa is a person of the ethnic group of the same name that is located in the Himalayan Mountains. Also a generic term for mountaineering porters in Nepal (usually those working at or above base camp) regardless of their ethnic group
'''<span id="short_fixing">Short fixing</span>'''
: A traditionally-belayed [[#lead climbing|lead]] climber reaches a new belay station, creates an anchor, tying the lead rope off to the anchor. The climber then switches over to self-belaying and continues to climb. Meanwhile, the second climber ascends the fixed rope using ascenders (aka Jugging) and cleans the pitch. When the second reaches the belay, he or she anchors in and starts to belay the leader in the traditional way again. When the leader reaches the next belay the process is repeated.
[[File:Bouldering in Coopers Rock - 02.jpg|thumb|'''Side pull''']]
'''<span id="side_pull">Side pull</span>'''
: A hold that needs to be gripped with a sideways pull towards the body.
: A technique where both climbers move simultaneously upward with the leader placing protection which the second removes as they advance. A device known as a Tibloc which allows the rope to only move in a single direction is sometimes used to prevent the second climber from accidentally pulling the lead climber off should the second slip.
: The use of a single rope where one or both ends of the rope are attached to fixed anchor points.
'''<span id="sit_and_spin">Sit and spin</span>'''
: A method of starting a rappel from a cliff edge, accomplished by sitting with legs over the edge and then spinning around to face the cliff while planting feet on the face.
[[File:Bouldering at Tom Riach - 06.jpg|thumb|'''Sit start''']]
'''<span id="sit_start">Sit start</span>'''
: Starting a climb from a position in which the climber is sitting on the floor. This is common in climbing gyms in order to fit an extra move into the climb. Noted as SS or SDS in some topo guides.
'''<span id="skittling">Skittling</span>'''
: Climbing without following any specific color in a gym with color-designated routes/problems. Also referred to as "climbing the rainbow," since any and all colors of holds are used.
[[File:Skyhook.jpg|thumb|'''Skyhook''']]
'''<span id="skyhook">Skyhook</span>'''
: A small hook which gives hold on small protrusions on watery and slippery grips. They are most often used for placements, often extremely marginal, in aid climbing, although they also feature in some extreme free routes. Additionally, the skyhook can be attached to the harness, thus allowing the climber to rest, or held in one or both hands to hold a grip.
'''<span id="slab">Slab</span>'''
: A relatively low-angle (significantly less than vertical) section of rock, usually with few large features. Requires slab climbing techniques.
[[File:Pywiack Dome - Climbers on Zee Tree - 02.JPG|thumb|'''Slab climbing''']]
: A particular type of rock climbing, and its associated techniques, involved in climbing rock that is less than vertical. The emphasis is on balance, footwork, and making use of very small features or rough spots on the rock for friction.
'''<span id="slack">Slack</span>'''
: Portion of rope that is not taut, preferably minimized during belay.
'''<span id="slcd">SLCD</span>'''
: Abbreviation for [[spring-loaded camming device]], a type of [[Protection (climbing)|protection device]]. These are better known by the term [[#cam|cam]].
: Setting and cleaning one's own protection on an ascent; climbing by oneself.
'''<span id="soupy">Soupy</span>'''
: A hold that is wet and slimy from water or some other source.
'''<span id="spinner">Spinner</span>''' : In indoor climbing, a hold that is not secure and spins in place when weight is applied.
'''<span id="spike">Spike</span>'''
: {{crossref|printworthy=y|See [[#horn|horn]].}}
[[File:Crack climbing in Indian Creek, Utah.jpg|thumb|'''Splitter''' crack]]
'''<span id="splitter">Splitter</span>'''
: Describes a clean crack with perfectly parallel sides, usually in an otherwise blank face. Generalized to refer to any great climb, happy situation, or even favorable weather.
: A style of climbing where form, technical (or gymnastic) ability and strength are more emphasized over exploration, self-reliance and the exhilaration of the inherent dangers involved in the sport. Sport climbing [[#route|routes]] tend to be well [[#protection|protected]] with pre-placed bolt-[[#anchor|anchors]] and lends itself well to competitive climbing.
: A method of protection commonly used during [[#bouldering|bouldering]] or before the leader has placed a piece of protection. The spotter stands beneath the climber, ready to absorb the energy of a fall and direct him away from any hazards.
'''<span id="sprag">Sprag</span>'''
: A type of hand position where the fingers and thumb are opposed.
'''<span id="spraying">Spraying</span>'''
: Giving unwanted — and unasked-for – [[#beta|beta]] to a fellow climber. Also, excessive, overly prominent, or boorish proclamation of one's own (often exaggerated) skills or exploits.
'''<span id="static">Static</span>'''
: Of a style of climbing or specific move, not [[#dynamic|dynamic]]. In general this entails movement of a limb to a new [[#hold|hold]] without the simultaneous transfer of weight. Instead weight transfer occurs after the limb has moved.
'''<span id="static_rope">Static rope</span>'''
: A non-elastic [[rope]]. Compare with [[#dynamic rope|dynamic rope]].
'''<span id="steep">Steep</span>'''
: Descriptive of any climbing face that is angled beyond vertical. {{crossref|printworthy=y|See [[#overhang|overhang]]}}.
[[File:Red River Gorge - Long Wall - Rock Wars 1a.jpg|thumb|'''Stemming''']]
'''{{anchor|stem}}{{anchor|stemming}}Stem'''
:# The simultaneous use of two widely spaced footholds.
:# Climbing using two faces that are at an angle less than 180° to each other.
'''<span id="step_cutting">Step cutting</span>'''
: Scooping steps out of snow or ice with the adze of an [[ice axe]].
'''<span id="step_kicking">Step kicking</span>'''
: Scooping and stamping steps out of soft snow with the feet.
'''<span id="sticht_plate">Sticht plate</span>'''
: A [[belay device]] consisting of a flat plate with a pair of slots. Named after the inventor [[Fritz Sticht]].
[[File:Use of stick clip.jpg|thumb|Use of '''stick clip''']]
'''<span id="stick_clip">Stick clip</span>'''
: A long stick or extendable pole on the end of which a climber can affix a quickdraw. It allows the climber to clip a quickdraw to the first bolt on a sport climb while still standing on the ground. This is especially useful if the first bolt is high up, and out of the comfort zone of the climber. A ''stick clip'' can be bought, easily made or even improvised when needed. [[#ethics|Ethically]] controversial in some communities.
'''<span id="stopper">Stopper</span>'''
:# A wedge-shaped [[#nut|nut]] made by Black Diamond.
:# A knot used to prevent the rope running through a piece of equipment.
'''<span id="summit">Summit</span>'''
:# The [[topographical summit|high point]] of a mountain or peak.
:# To reach such a high point.
'''<span id="swami_belt">Swami Belt</span>'''
: A kind of proto-[[climbing harness]] consisting of a long length of tubular webbing wrapped several times around the climbers body and secured with a [[water knot]]. Largely eschewed today in favor of commercial harnesses.
'''<span id="sweeper">Sweeper</span>'''
: Refers to the last member or the tail of a climbing group. The sweeper's task is to spot and retrieve things that may have accidentally fallen from the preceding climbers; to make sure that no mess or gear is left behind; and to make sure that the rear is keeping up with the whole team. The term ''sweeper'', a Filipino contribution to mountaineering vocabulary, was introduced in 1998 and was inspired by the Cleaner, a character in the 1990 film ''[[Nikita (1990 film)|Nikita]]'' (also known as ''La Femme Nikita'') by Luc Besson.
: A dynamic form of the [[#lieback|lieback]], described above, rotating off one foot while maintaining a grip with one hand, then grabbing a high handhold at the [[#deadpoint|deadpoint]] of the swing with the other hand. This move is frequently reversible, unlike more aerial [[#dyno|dynos]].
'''<span id="switcharoo">Switcharoo</span>'''
: To swap limbs on a particular hold. Not to be confused with matching.
{{term|[[American death triangle]]}}
== T ==
{{defn|1=[[File:Death triangle.png|thumb|upright=0.7|Diagram of '''{{gli|American death triangle}}''']]
'''<span id="take">Take</span>'''
A dangerous {{gli|anchor}} that is created by connecting a closed loop of webbing between two points of protection.}}
: Called by a climber when requesting that the belayer remove all slack. See [[#hangdog|hang dogging]].
'''<span id="talus">Talus</span>'''
: An area of large rock fragments on a mountainside that may vary from house-size to as small as a small backpack. The area, if older and consolidated, may be stable, or the rocks may be precariously balanced. Talus is distinguished from [[#scree|scree]] in that it is larger and may feature solid interlocking of the rocks, while scree is by definition loose.
'''<span id="teabagging">Teabagging</span>'''
: When, after a [[whipper]], or long fall, a climber falls past their [[belayer]], who is generally lifted up off the ground.
: Climbing involving a rope and some means of [[Protection (climbing)|protection]], as opposed to [[scrambling]] or [[#glacier travel|glacier travel]].
'''{{anchor|technique}}Technical'''
: A term often used to describe very technical sequences of moves and / or the degree of ingenuity and creativity required to protect a route. Difficulty ratings of climbs often is a combination of technicality of a climb and the endurance or strength necessary to complete it.
'''{{anchor|technique}}Technique'''
: Specialized moves given names to help communicate what to do to another person.
'''{{anchor|tendu}}Tendu'''
: From the French word meaning ''outstretched''. In this grip the fingers are close to the position when the hand is open. The relative angle between the [[finger bones]] is gradual. The load applied is coming from tension in the forearm muscles.
'''<span id="tension">Tension</span>'''
: A technique for maintaining balance using a taut rope through a point of protection.
'''<span id="testpiece">Testpiece</span>'''
: A climb that is representative of the hardest, best climbs in an area.
'''<span id="thrutching">Thrutching</span>'''
: Make progress by squeezing into a space and wriggling against opposing rock surfaces.
: The leg straps and waist belt create two loops connecting the belay loop. The points which you tie in at. Also known as soft loops.
[[File:015 zehnte stadtmeisterschaft im Klettern in Munich.JPG|thumb|'''Toe hook''']]
; {{anchor|toehook}}Toe hook : A toe hook is securing the upper side of the [[toes]] on a hold. It helps pull the body inwards—towards the wall. The toe hook is often used on overhanging rock where it helps to keep the body from swinging away from the wall.
'''<span id="top_rope">Top rope</span>'''
: To [[#belay|belay]] from a fixed [[#anchor|anchor]] point above the climb. Top-roping requires easy access to the top of the climb, by means of a footpath or scrambling.
'''<span id="top_out">Top-out</span>'''
: To complete a route by ascending over the top of the structure being climbed.
'''<span id="track">Track</span>'''
: To use holds specified out for you in any route, usually used in gym climbing.
[[File:Climbing in Yosemite Valley - 01.jpg|thumb|'''Traditional climbing''' in [[Yosemite Valley]]]]
: A style of climbing that emphasizes the adventure and exploratory nature of climbing. While sport climbers generally will use pre-placed protection ("bolts"), traditional (or "trad") climbers will place their own protection as they climb, generally carried with them on a [[#rack|rack]].
'''<span id="training">Training</span>'''
: Getting prepared to climb on difficult mountains.
'''<span id="tramming">Tramming</span>'''
: A technique that is typically used while lowering and [[#clean|cleaning]] gear from an overhanging and/or traversing route. A [[quickdraw]] is clipped between the climber's harness and the rope that is threaded through the gear. As the climber is lowered by the [[#belay|belayer]], the quickdraw holds the cleaner close to the wall and following the line of the route. Without the quickdraw, the climber would lower straight down, further and further from the remaining gear to be cleaned. Also known as trolleying.
[[File:Peter Stocker in Yosemite.jpg|thumb|'''Traverse''' section on a big wall in Yosemite]]
'''<span id="traverse">Traverse</span>'''
:# To climb in a horizontal direction.
:# A section of a route that requires progress in a horizontal direction.
:# A Tyrolean traverse is crossing a chasm using a rope anchored at both ends.
:# A ''pendulum traverse'' involves swinging across a wall or chasm while suspended from a rope affixed above the climber.
'''<span id="tricam">[[Tricam]]</span>'''
: A simple camming protection device that has no moving parts.
[[File:Tuber mix.jpg|thumb|'''Tubers''', or tubular belay devices from different manufacturers.]]
'''<span id="tuber">Tuber</span>'''
: A belay device.
[[File:Climbing at Kalymnos Island - 23.jpg|thumb|Climbing on '''tufas''' on [[Kalymnos]]]]
'''<span id="tufa">Tufa</span>'''
: A limestone rib formation that protrudes from the wall which can sometimes fit within the pinching grasp of a climber's hand; alternatively: a plastic, bolted on bouldering hold designed to replicate such a formation on an indoor climbing wall.
'''<span id="twin ropes">Twin Ropes</span>'''
: System where the climber is using two thin ropes instead of one thicker one, but unlike [[#double ropes|double ropes]] twin ropes have to be clipped through the same biner for each piece of protection. '''Twin ropes''' are often used by [[#trad|trad]] and [[#alpine|alpine]] climbers. They allow full pitch [[Abseiling|repelling]] and help reducing the chances for accidental cutting of the rope by sharp rock edges.<ref name="stephdavis.co" />
'''<span id="two man stand">Two man stand</span>'''
: An outdated climbing technique where one climber stands on the shoulders of another climber as an assist in climbing.
{{term|[[Anchor (climbing)|anchor]]}}
== U ==
{{defn|An arrangement of one or more pieces of fixed {{gli|protection}} set up to support the weight of a {{gli|belay}}, a {{gli|top rope}}, or an {{gli|abseil}}.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/rock-climbing-terms-definitions/ | title=What's A Redpoint And What Do Other Climbing Terms Mean? Our Climbing Dictionary Has The Answers | date=4 May 2022 | accessdate=3 March 2023 | author=Climbing Staff}}</ref><ref name=SC/> See also ''{{gli|deadman anchor}}''.}}
[[File:Bouldering in Barredo - Lugo - Galicia.jpg|thumb|'''Undercling''' hold]]
'''<span id="undercling">Undercling</span>'''
: A hold which is gripped with the palm of the hand facing upwards
'''<span id="übergrippen“>Übergrippen</span>'''
:# The intense feeling of relief when finding a jug or good handhold after a difficult Crux.
:# An indoor climbing crag located in NE Denver <ref>http://www.ugclimbing.com</ref>
{{term|[[ape index]]}}
== V ==
{{defn|A measure of the ratio of a climber's arm span relative to their height.}}
'''<span id="v_grade">"V"-grade</span>'''
: A technical [[Grade (bouldering)|grading system]] for [[bouldering]] problems, invented by [[John Sherman (climber)|John Sherman]].
: A type of [[abseiling]] point used especially in winter and [[ice climbing]]. Also called abalakov thread.
'''<span id="verglas">Verglas</span>'''
: A thin coating of ice that forms over rocks when rainfall or melting snow freezes on rock. Hard to climb on as there is insufficient depth for [[crampons]] to have reliable penetration. See also [[clear ice]] and [[glaze ice]].
'''<span id="volume">Volume</span>'''
: A large, hollow bolted-on bouldering hold.
{{term|[[arête]]}}
== W ==
{{defn|
'''<span id="wand">WAD</span>'''
1. A small ridge-like feature or a sharp outward-facing corner on a steep rock face.}}
: Originating in Sheffield, a WAD is a "super climber" or climber who is on-sighting 7c+.
{{defn|no=2|A narrow ridge of rock formed by glacial erosion.}}
'''<span id="wand">Wand</span>'''
{{defn|no=3|A method of {{gli|indoor climbing}} in which one is able to use such a corner as a hold. See also ''{{gli|dihedral}}''.}}
: A [[bamboo]] stick with a small flag on top used to mark paths over [[glacier]]s and snow fields.
'''<span id="wallerina">Wallerina</span>'''
: A graceful female climber who appears to dance up the climbing wall.
: Hollow and flat nylon strip, mainly used to make [[#sling|slings]].
'''<span id="webolette">Webolette</span>'''
: A piece of webbing with eyes sewn into the ends which can be used in place of a cordelette.
'''<span id="weighting">Weighting</span>'''
: As in, "weighting the rope." Any time the rope takes the weight of the climber. This can happen during a minor fall, a [[whipper]] (long fall), or simply by resting while hanging on the [[#belay|belay]] rope (see also [[#hangdog|hangdogging]]).
'''<span id="whipper">[[Whipper]]</span>'''
: A lead fall from above and to the side of the last clip, whipping oneself downwards and in an arc. Has come to denote any fall beyond the last placed or clipped piece of protection.
'''<span id="wired">Wired</span>'''
: A route or sequence that a climber has rehearsed extensively and thus ascends with ease. See [[#dialled|dialled]].
'''<span id="wires">Wires</span>'''
: See [[#nut|nuts]].
'''<span id="wolf_moon">Wolf moon</span>'''
: To complete a lead climb during night time.
'''<span id="woodie">Woodie</span>'''
: A home made [[#climbing wall|climbing wall]]. Often specifically a hybrid between a climbing wall and a fingerboard. Specifically called such because of the wooden panels (usually left unpainted) used to attach the climbing holds to.
{{term|term=arm bar|content=arm bar {{anchor|armbar}} }}
== X ==
{{defn|A [[climbing technique]] where the climber jams their arm into a crack and locks it into place, to aid their ascent.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/>}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Deep Water Solo Spot, Algarve Portugal .png|thumb|upright=0.7|An '''{{gli|armchair landing}}''']]
: A rating from the [[Yosemite Decimal System]] given to climbs that have very poor or no protection. These climbs often present risk of serious injury or death if a fall were to occur, even if the climb is properly protected.
A technique in {{gli|deep-water soloing}} for entering shallower water where the climber needs to avoid deeper hazards in the water; executed properly a {{Convert|30|ft|m|adj=on}} fall can be absorbed in just {{Convert|5|ft|m|adj=off}} of water.<ref name=CL5>{{cite web | website=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/learn-this-deep-water-soloing-101/ | title=Learn This: Deep-Water Soloing 101 | date=18 March 2019 | accessdate=10 May 2023 | first1=R, Bryan | last1=Simon | first2=Seth C. | last2=Hawkins}}</ref>}}
{{term|[[ascender (climbing)|ascender]]}}
'''<span id="xeno">Xeno</span>'''
{{defn|1=[[File:Petzl Ascenders (On Rope).jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Ascender}}s''']]
: A hold appearing to be composed of a different type of rock than the surrounding face.
A mechanical device used for ascending a {{gli|fixed rope}}, very common in {{gli|aid climbing}} and {{gli|big wall climbing}}. See ''{{gli|jumar}}''.}}
{{term|[[aspect (geography)|aspect]]}}
== Y ==
{{defn|The geographical direction which a particular slope or rock wall faces, e.g. "north aspect".}}
'''<span id="yabo">Yabo</span>'''
: Another name for a [[#sit start|Sit start]], a 'Yabo start' was named after [[John Yablonski|John 'Yabo' Yablonski]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://home.tiscalinet.de/ockier/climbing_dict.htm#yabo |title= The climbing dictionary |accessdate=2007-02-20 |author= Carl Ockier }}</ref>
'''<span id="yard_up">Yard up</span>'''
: To pull on the rope to make upward progress, often with assistance from the belayer. This may be done to bypass a crux, or to quickly regain ground lost after a fall without re-climbing the section. AKA to "jug up" the rope.
: A numerical system for rating the difficulty of walks, hikes, and climbs in the United States. The rock climbing (5.x) portion of the scale is the most common [[grade (climbing)|climb grading]] system used in the US. The scale starts with the easiest grades at 5.0 and is open-ended on the harder end. {{As of|2013|11}}, the most difficult grade was 5.15c.
{{term|[[Belay device#Tubular variant|ATC]]}}
== Z ==
{{defn|A {{gli|belay device}} from [[Black Diamond Equipment|Black Diamond]] (the "Air Traffic Controller") that became a generic term for any {{gli|tuber}} belay device. }}
'''<span id="zawn">zawn</span>'''
: In the UK, a deep, narrow inlet in a sea-cliff, filled by the sea at high tides.
'''<span id="z_clipping">Z-clipping</span>'''
: [[#clipping in|Clipping into]] a piece of protection with the segment of rope from beneath the previous piece of protection, resulting in a potentially dangerous tangled configuration of the belay rope. If not fixed can result in high drag.
'''<span id="zipper_fall">Zipper fall</span>'''
: A [[#fall|fall]] in which each piece of [[#protection|protection]] fails in turn. In some cases when the rope comes taut during a fall, the protection can fail from the bottom up, especially if the first piece was not placed to account for outward and/or upward force.
[[File:Z-pulley.jpg|thumb|'''Z-pulley''' system]]
'''<span id="z_pulley">Z-pulley</span>'''
: Also '''Z-system'''. A particular configuration of rope, anchors, and pulleys typically used to extricate a climber after falling into a [[crevasse]].
{{term|[[Australian rappel]]}}
== See also ==
{{defn|1=[[File:Australian Rappel.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Australian rappel}}''']] {{ghat|Also '''angel jumping''', '''deepelling''' and '''rap jumping'''.}}
{{Portal|Rock Climbing}}
A type of {{gli|abseiling}} technique performed face first; used for military purposes.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/dangerous-rappel-technique-australian/ | title=Rappellers Threw Themselves Face First Off Cliff With One-Nut Anchor | first=Kevin | last=Corrigan | date=4 September 2022 | accessdate=21 March 2023}}</ref>}}
*[[List of climbing topics]] — A list of articles relating to climbing and mountaineering.
*[[Climbing equipment]] — Article describing equipment used by climbers.
{{term|[[auto belay]]}}
{{defn|A mechanical {{gli|belay device}} on indoor {{gli|climbing wall}}s, which hangs from the top of routes that solo climbers clip into.}}
{{glossaryend}}
==B==
{{glossary}}
{{term|[[Grade (climbing)#B system|B-grade]]}}
{{defn|A {{gli|grade|grading system}} for {{gli|bouldering}} invented by [[John Gill (climber)|John Gill]], now superseded by the {{gli|V-grade|V-grading system}}.}}
A piece of training equipment used to improve {{gli|campus|campusing}} and core body and arm strength; invented by [[John Bachar]].}}
{{term|back-clipping}}
{{defn|A hazardous mistake of clipping the rope into a {{gli|quickdraw}} so the leader's end runs underneath the quickdraw as opposed to over the top of it; if the leader falls, the rope may fold directly over the gate, causing it to open and fail.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=Gripped-lead-mistakes>{{cite web | magazine=Grippped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/three-common-lead-climbing-mistakes-to-avoid/ | date=1 March 2021 | accessdate=3 March 2023 | title=Three Common Lead Climbing Mistakes to Avoid}}</ref>}}
Stepping on a hold where the outside edge — little toe side — of the shoe touches the rock.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name="REI"/><ref name="ClimbingTechniques"/>
}}
{{term|bail}}
{{defn|To retreat from a climb.}}
{{term|ball nut}}
{{defn|A type of {{gli|protection}} device consisting of a nut and a movable ball used for very small thin cracks.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.sierramtnguides.com/demystifying-the-ball-nut/ |title=Demystifying the Ball Nut! |publisher=Sierra Mountain Guides |access-date=10 March 2023|first=Howie |last=Schwartz| date=21 July 2016}}</ref>}}
{{term|barn-door}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Joshua Tree - Illusion Dweller 1.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|A potential '''{{gli|barn door}}''' swing to the right]]
When all four points of contact are on a straight axis, the body can swing uncontrollably on this axis. See ''{{gli|flagging}}''.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|bashie}}
{{defn|See ''{{gli|copperhead}}''.}}
{{term|bat hang}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Iker en Margalef.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|Using a '''{{gli|bat hang}}''']]
Where a {{gli|lead climber}} gains a brief upside-down rest by hanging from their wedged feet. See ''{{gli|chest jam}}'' and ''{{gli|knee bar}}''.}}
{{defn|To {{gli|protection|protect}} a roped {{gli|lead climbing|lead climber}} from falling by controlling the rope; usually involves a {{gli|belay device}}.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|[[belayer]]}}
{{defn|The person {{gli|belay|belaying}} the {{gli|lead climber}}, also known as a {{gli|second}}.}}
{{term|[[belay device]]}}
{{defn|A mechanical device used by {{gli|belayer|belayers}} to increase braking force when belaying; can be passive like a {{gli|figure eight|figure eights}} or {{gli|tuber|tubers}}, or a more active {{gli|abd|assisted braking device}} like the [[Grigri (climbing)|Petzl GriGri]].<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|[[belay glasses]]}}
{{defn|Glasses that are worn by the {{gli|belayer}} to help them avoid having to look upward, which can cause neck strain.<ref name=OUT45/>}}
Gloves that are worn by the {{gli|belayer}} to protect their skin in the event of sudden rope movement and to aid grip.<ref name=OUT45>{{cite web | magazine=[[Outside (magazine)|Outside]] | first=Alison | last=Osius | title=Sh*t Climbers Bring These Days | url=https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-gear/climbing-gear/unnecessary-climbing-gear/ | date=22 August 2022 | accessdate=25 June 2024}}</ref>}}
{{term|belay loop}}
{{defn|The strongest point on a climbing {{gli|harness}}, and the loop to which a {{gli|belay device}} is physically attached.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|belay off}}
{{defn|A {{gli|climbing command}} from a {{gli|belayer}} to confirm that the friction of {{gli|belay|belaying}} has been removed from a climbing rope. It is a standard response to a climber's "{{gli|off belay}}" request.<ref name=outsidenoob>{{cite web | magazine=[[Outside (magazine)|Outside]] | url=https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/beginners-guide-rock-climbing/ | title=The Noob's Guide to Rock Climbing | first=Chris | last=Brinlee | date=16 March 2016 | accessdate=5 July 2023}}</ref>}}
{{term|belay on}}
{{defn|A {{gli|climbing command}} from a {{gli|belayer}} to confirm that the friction of {{gli|belay|belaying}} has been (re)applied to a climbing rope. It is a standard response to a climber's "{{gli|on belay}}" request.<ref name=outsidenoob/>}}
{{term|belay station}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Red Rocks - Steve on The Nightcrawler - 1.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|Bolted '''{{gli|belay station}}''']]
The place from which a {{gli|belayer}} is belaying, sometimes anchored to the ground, or directly to the rock (particularly in a {{gli|hanging belay}} on {{gli|big wall climbing}} routes), or other objects.<ref>{{cite web|title=Belay stations – Mountaineering Methodology|url=http://www.mountaineeringmethodology.com/belay-stations/|website=www.mountaineeringmethodology.com|access-date=8 December 2017|archive-date=29 January 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180129003729/http://www.mountaineeringmethodology.com/belay-stations/|url-status=dead}}</ref>}}
{{term|[[bergschrund]]}}
{{defn|A {{gli|crevasse}} that forms on the upper portion of a [[glacier]] where the moving section pulls away from the {{gli|headwall}}.
}}
{{term|[[beta (climbing)|beta]]}}
{{defn|Information on how to complete (or protect) a particular climbing route. See ''{{gli|on-sight}}'' and ''{{gli|flash}}''.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/><ref name=SC/>}}
{{term|beta break}}
{{defn|In {{gli|sport climbing}}, a move on a climbing route other than the move originally intended by the route setter. In bouldering, a move other than the move usually used on the boulder.}}
{{term|beta flash}}
{{defn|See ''{{gli|flash}}''.}}
{{term|bicycle}}
{{defn|A [[rock-climbing technique]] for {{gli|overhang|overhangs}} where the feet "pinch-hold" a foothold by one foot pushing down on it while the other foot pulls up on it (i.e. like the pedals on a bicycle).<ref>{{cite web | website=FrictinoLabs | url=https://frictionlabs.com/blog/how-it-works-the-bicycle | title=How It Works: The Bicycle | date=2023 | accessdate=5 March 2023 | first=Conor | last=Griffith}}</ref>}}
{{term|Big Bro}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''tube chock'''.}}
A hollow telescopic tubular device manufactured by Trango for use as {{gli|protection}} in {{gli|off-width}} {{gli|crack climbing}}.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] |url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/learn-this-offwidth-protection-primer/ | first=Pamela | last=Pack | title=Learn This: Offwidth Protection Primer | date=18 April 2016 | accessdate=30 October 2023}}</ref>}}
{{term|[[big wall climbing]]}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Craig DeMartino on Zodiac on El Capitan.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Big wall climbing}}''']]
A long sustained sheer exposed rock climb with ''at least'' 6–10 {{gli|pitch}}es (over 300–500 metres), that typically takes over a day (if not many days), and requires the hauling of food, water, sleeping bags, and the use of {{gli|portaledge}}s.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/>}}
{{term|[[bivouac shelter|bivouac]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''bivy''' or '''bivvy'''.}}
A crude overnight camp or shelter on a climbing route; on a sheer vertical wall, a {{gli|portaledge}} can be used.}}
{{term|bivy-bag}}
{{defn|A lightweight garment or sack offering full-body protection from wind and rain, which is used in a {{gli|bivouac}}.}}
{{term|[[belay#Body belay|body belay]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''hip belay'''.}}
Where the {{gli|belayer}} uses their body, and not a mechanical {{gli|belay device}}, to increase braking force when belaying; usually involves wrapping the rope around their waist or hip.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-hip-belay/ |title=How to Hip Belay|publisher=Climbing.com |access-date=20 April 2023 | date=18 June 2013 | first=Christian | last=Santelices}}</ref>}}
{{term|boinking}}
{{defn|A {{gli|sport climbing}} technique to get back onto the wall after falling by pulling on the rope to un-weight it, allowing the belayer to {{gli|take|take in}} the {{gli|slack}} quickly; avoids the fallen climber having to return to the ground.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-boink-sport-climbing/ | title=Learn This Critical Skill for Steep Rock: Boinking | first=Pat | last=Bagley | date=2 February 2023 | accessdate=5 March 2023}}</ref>}}
A large block of rock or ice that is used as an {{gli|anchor}} to construct a {{gli|belay}}.
}}
{{term|[[bolt (climbing)|bolt]]}}
{{defn|A point of {{gli|protection}} permanently installed in a hole drilled into the rock, to which a metal {{gli|bolt hanger}} is attached, with a hole to attach a {{gli|carabiner}} or a {{gli|quickdraw}}; used in {{gli|sport climbing}} and in {{gli|competition climbing}}.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|bolt chopping}}
{{defn|The deliberate removal of {{gli|bolt|bolts}} from a climb; happens on {{gli|traditional climbing}} routes (e.g. the ''[[Indian Face]]''); also featured in the "bolt wars" of the 1980s and 1990s in the US.<ref name=SC/>}}
{{term|bolt ladder}}
{{defn|Sequence of {{gli|bolt|bolts}} that are so close together, they can be used by {{gli|aid climbing|aid climbers}} as a ladder.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|[[bolt hanger]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''hanger'''.}} A piece of metal that is pre-attached to a {{gli|bolt}} (i.e. before the bolt is screwed in) into which {{gli|quickdraw}}s can be clipped.}}
{{term|[[bolt runner]]}}
{{defn|A term to describe a {{gli|bolt}} that has no {{gli|bolt hanger}}; will require a {{gli|rivet hanger}} to be used by a climber.}}
{{term|bomb-proof}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''bomber'''.}}
A highly secure {{gli|anchor}}, or a particularly solid handhold or foothold.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/><ref>{{cite web | website=[[British Mountaineering Council]] | url=https://www.thebmc.co.uk/bomb-proof-belay-stakes-at-pembroke | title=Bomb-proof belay stakes at Pembroke | first=Cath | last=Fitchcroft | date=25 October 2007 | accessdate=1 March 2023}}</ref>
}}
{{term|[[bosun's chair]]}}
{{defn|A type of larger harness to give a climber relief from bearing a constant load via their {{gli|harness|climbing harness}}.}}
{{term|[[bouldering]]}}
{{defn|A type of climbing on large [[boulder]]s less than {{convert|20|ft|m}} high with only {{gli|crash pad|crash pads}} and {{gli|spotting}} for protection.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/>}}
A thick foam pad used for protection when {{gli|bouldering}}; also called a crash pad.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|bounce test}}
{{defn|A technique in {{gli|aid climbing}} where a new placement is tested by using the {{gli|lead climber}}'s bodyweight.<ref name=CL41>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-climb-a-big-wall/ | title=Everything You Need to Know for Your First Big Wall | first=Mark | last=Synott | date=23 February 2022 | accessdate=16 May 2023}}</ref>}}
{{term|[[bowline on a bight]]}}
{{defn|A knot that makes a pair of fixed-size loops in the middle of a rope.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Bowline on a bight | access-date=July 4, 2020 |url= https://www.animatedknots.com/bowline-on-a-bight-knot}}</ref>}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''clean aid climbing grade'''.}}
The technical difficulty {{gli|grade|grading}} system for {{gli|aid climbing}} that is "clean" (i.e. no {{gli|rock hammer|hammered}} {{gli|piton}}s or {{gli|bolt}}s), which goes: C0, C1, C2, C3, C4, and C5; also has an {{gli|a-grade|A-grade}} equivalent of the "original" aid grades for "new wave".<ref name=AlpinistGrades/>}}
{{term|[[Spring-loaded camming device|cam]]}}
{{defn|A {{gli|spring-loaded camming device}} (SLCD), also known as "friends", used as {{gli|protection}} in {{gli|traditional climbing}}.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/>}}
{{term|[[camalot]]}}
{{defn|A brand of {{gli|spring-loaded camming device}} (SLCD), manufactured by [[Black Diamond Equipment]].}}
{{term|campusing}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Bouldering at Lizard's Mouth in santa barbara, ca.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|Climber '''{{gli|campusing}}''']]
Ascending a route without using the feet; is done on overhanging routes or on a {{gli|campus board}}.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/> See ''{{gli|paddling}}''.}}
{{term|[[campus board]]}}
{{defn|A piece of [[climbing equipment#Training equipment|training equipment]] used to build finger strength and strong arm lock-offs.<ref name=UKC/>}}
An aluminum loop with a spring-loaded gate used to attach various load-bearing climbing devices together.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/>}}
{{term|carrot bolt}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Climbing carrot bolt.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Carrot bolt}}''' with {{gli|nut}}]] {{ghat|Also '''bash-in'''.}}
An Australian term for a metal hex-headed [[Bolt (fastener)|machine bolt]] that functions like a {{gli|bolt}} but with no fixed {{gli|bolt hanger}}; climbers attach to the carrot bolt by using a version of a {{gli|rivet hanger}} or by attaching a removable bolt hanger plate.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | date=12 July 2023 | accessdate=8 November 2023 | first=Ryan | last=Siacci | url=https://www.climbing.com/places/the-carrot-bolt-an-australian-icon/ | title=Many a visitor has left our shores with crappy dacks (a quaint piece of slang meaning basically what you'd expect) after an exciting episode with this Aussie icon.}}</ref>}}
{{term|[[chalk bag|chalk]]}}
{{defn|Gymnastic [[magnesium carbonate#Uses|magnesium carbonate]] chalk that is used to reduce moisture, improve friction, and mark holds.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|[[chalk bag]]}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Klimmen pofzak.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Climbing chalk|Chalk}}''' and '''{{gli|chalk bag}}''']]
A hand-sized holder for climbing {{gli|chalk}} that is carried on a chalk belt or clipped to a {{gli|harness}}.
}}
{{term|[[chest harness]]}}
{{defn|Type of {{gli|harness}} that also covers the upper body to help prevent a rotation in any fall; particularly used when the climber is carrying a heavy pack, or is climbing in an area with crevasses.}}
{{term|term=chest jam|content=chest jam {{anchor|chestjam}} }}
{{defn|Jamming the torso into a wide crack, especially to allow the climber to rest.}}
{{term|chicken bolt}}
{{defn|Term in {{gli|big wall climbing}} and {{gli|aid climbing}} to refer to a {{gli|bolt}} placed to reduce the risk of a difficult section.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/routes/the-boot-flake-on-the-nose-on-el-cap-is-gone__trashed-2/ | title=The Boot Flake on The Nose on El Cap is Gone, April Foola | date=2 April 2020 | accessdate=25 May 2023}}</ref>}}
{{term|chicken head}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Reed's Creek - Tied off Chicken Head.JPG|thumb|upright=0.7|Tied '''{{gli|chicken head}}''']]
Knob or horn of rock narrowed at the base .<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{defn|A {{gli|crack}} [[climbing technique]] where a hand is placed on one side of the crack and the shoulder on the other.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Don't Just Wing It: 6 Crucial Wide-Crack Techniques |first=Matt |last=Kuehl |magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] |date=18 December 2015 |access-date=20 May 2019 |url= https://www.climbing.com/skills/dont-just-wing-it/}}</ref>}}
[[Rock-climbing technique]] for climbing a rock cleft with mostly parallel vertical sides, large enough to fit the climber's body. See ''{{gli|stemming}}''.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|[[Chipping (rock climbing)|chipping]]}}
{{defn|Improving a climbing hold by chipping the rock — is considered unethical and poor practice in climbing.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|chock}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''chockstone'''.}}
A stone wedged in a crack that can be threaded to create a point of {{gli|protection}} in {{gli|traditional climbing}}.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/><ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/gear/the-nut-chronicles/ | title=Before "the Nut" There Was "the Pebble"… and It Was Sketchy | date=27 April 2022 | accessdate=12 September 2023 | first1=Jeff | last1=Achey}}</ref>}}
{{term|chop route}}
{{defn|British term for a {{gli|traditional climbing}} route with very poor {{gli|protection}} where any fall could be fatal. See ''{{gli|x|X}}''.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|choss}}
{{defn|Loose or "rotten" rock that makes for unpleasant, difficult, or dangerous climbing; useful for {{gli|dry-tooling}}.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|classification}}
{{defn|See ''{{gli|grade}}''.}}
{{term|clean}}
{{defn|no=1|To remove (or strip) {{gli|protection}} equipment from a climbing route.}}
{{defn|no=2|A route that is free of loose vegetation and rocks; vigorous cleaning can be {{gli|chipping}}<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{defn|no=3|To complete a climb without falling or resting on the rope. See ''{{gli|redpoint}}''.}}
{{term|[[aid climbing|clean aid climbing]]}}
{{defn|A type of {{gli|aid climbing}} where only removable {{gli|traditional climbing}} {{gli|protection}} is allowed, and no {{gli|rock hammer|hammered-in}} {{gli|bolt}}s or {{gli|piton}}s. See ''{{gli|C-grade}}''.}}
{{term|[[clean climbing]]}}
{{defn|A broad movement that extended from the earlier {{gli|free climbing}} movement, which advocated minimizing any form of climbing that permanently impacted the natural rock surface, such as the use of {{gli|bolt}}s or {{gli|piton}}s in {{gli|sport climbing}}.}}
A device for removing jammed protection equipment, especially {{gli|nut|nuts}}, from a {{gli|route}}.
}}
{{term|climbing area}}
{{defn|A region with numerous {{gli|climbing route}}s. See ''{{gli|crag}}''}}
{{term|climbing command}}
{{defn|A short phrase used for communication and instructions between a {{gli|lead climber}} and a {{gli|belayer}}. See ''{{gli|take}}''.<ref name=outsidenoob/>}}
{{term|[[climbing gym]]}}
{{defn|A specialized {{gli|indoor climbing}} center; usually just called a "climbing centre" in the UK.}}
{{term|climbing peak}}
{{defn|From german (Klettergipfel) a formation that can only be ascended by climbing.<ref>{{citation|editor-surname1=Der Sächsische Bergsteigerbund|title=Sächsische Kletterregeln : Vollständige Fassung|contribution=5.1 ''Klettergipfel''|date=1 September 2009|language=German|url=http://www.bergsteigerbund.de/klettern_saechsische_kletterregeln.html|format=Webdokument|access-date=16 November 2009|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110910091422/http://www.bergsteigerbund.de/klettern_saechsische_kletterregeln.html|archive-date=10 September 2011|url-status=dead}}</ref>}}
{{term|[[climbing rope]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|See ''{{gli|dynamic rope}}'' and ''{{gli|static rope}}''}}
General term for the wide range of specialized ropes that are used in all forms of climbing.<ref name=CL50/>}}
{{term|[[climbing route]]}}
{{defn|A path by which a climber reaches the top of a mountain, a rock face or obstacle, or an ice-covered face or obstacle.}}
{{term|[[climbing shoe]]}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Five Ten Anasazi Verde.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Climbing shoe}}''']]
Footwear designed specifically for rock climbing that fits tightly and with sticky rubber soles for grip.}}
{{term|[[climbing wall]]}}
{{defn|Artificial rock face that is typically housed indoors; is also used for {{gli|competition climbing}}.}}
{{term|clip in}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''clipping in'''.}}
The process of attaching the rope to {{gli|protection}} (usually via a {{gli|carabiner}}), to {{gli|belay}} devices, or to other {{gli|anchor|anchors}}. See {{gli|tie in}}.}}
{{term|clipstick}}
{{defn|See ''{{gli|stick clip}}''.}}
{{term|[[competition climbing]]}}
{{defn|A type of climbing held on {{gli|climbing wall}}s for mostly professional or Olympic climbers, split into the disciplines of {{gli|lead climbing}} (on a bolted {{gli|sport climbing}} route), {{gli|bouldering}} and {{gli|speed climbing}}. A fourth discipline of "combined" add the three together. See ''{{gli|ifsc|IFSC}}''.<ref>{{cite web | website=[[British Mountaineering Council]] | url=https://www.thebmc.co.uk/a-brief-history-of-competition-climbing | title=A brief history of competition climbing | first=Toby | last=Dunne | date=17 August 2021 | accessdate=10 March 2023}}</ref>}}
{{term|[[competition ice climbing]]}}
{{defn|A type of ice climbing held on {{gli|climbing wall}}s for mostly professional ice climbers, split into the disciplines of ice {{gli|lead climbing}} (on a bolted {{gli|sport climbing}} dry-wall route), and ice {{gli|speed climbing}} on an iced route. See also ''{{gli|uiaa|UIAA}}''.}}
A small nut on a loop of wire with a head made of metal (often copper), soft enough to deform during placement, which is often with a {{gli|rock hammer|hammer}}; commonly used in {{gli|aid climbing}} as a point of placement, remaining fixed in-situ after placement.}}
A short piece of thin climbing rope used for various purposes in climbing, including for creating {{gli|abseiling|abseil stations}}. See ''{{gli|tat}}''.<ref name=CL50>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/gear/a-beginners-guide-to-climbing-ropes/ | title=Your Complete Guide to Rock Climbing Ropes | first=Stephen | last=Potter | date=25 July 2022 | accessdate=21 March 2023}}</ref>}}
{{term|[[cord lock]]}}
{{defn|A lock or toggle used to fasten cords with gloved hands. Used on most mountaineering gear.}}
{{term|cordelette}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Cordelette at belay anchor.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Cordelette}}''']]
A loop of narrow (e.g. 5-7 millimetre) accessory perlon cord that is used to tie into multiple {{gli|anchor}} points.}}
{{term|corner}}
{{defn|An inside corner of rock, the opposite of an {{gli|arête}} (UK). See ''{{gli|dihedral}}''.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|[[Cornice (climbing)|cornice]]}}
{{defn|An overhanging edge of snow on a ridge.}}
{{term|[[crack climbing]]}}
{{defn|To ascend by wedging body parts into natural cracks in the rock.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/> See ''{{gli|jamming}}'', ''{{gli|chimney}}'', and ''{{gli|off-width}}''.}}
{{term|crag}}
{{defn|An expanse of continuous rock that contains a number of rock {{gli|climbing route}}s (e.g. [[Clogwyn Du'r Arddu]]).<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|[[crampons]]}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Mointain Boot with Crampons.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|12-point '''{{gli|crampons}}''']]
A pair of metal frames with spikes that can be attached to boots to increase grip on snow and ice. See ''{{gli|front pointing}}''.}}
{{term|cranking}}
{{defn|To pull on a climbing hold as hard as possible.}}
{{defn|1=[[File:BW 2012-08-26 Anna Stoehr AUS 0601.JPG|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|crank|Cranking}}''' on '''{{gli|crimp|crimps}}''']]
{{ghat|Also '''crimper'''.}}
A hold which is only just big enough to be grasped with the tips of the fingers.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/><ref name="ClimbingTechniques"/>}}
{{term|crux}}
{{defn|The most difficult portion of a climb; often the [[Grade (climbing)|grade]] is defined by the difficulty of the crux.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/><ref>{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/the-crux/ | title=The Crux | first=Steve | last=Quinn | date=13 August 2008 | accessdate=24 December 2022}}</ref>}}
{{term|cut-loose}}
{{defn|When a climber's feet swing away from the rock on overhanging terrain and they hang by their hands.}}
Where {{gli|mixed climbing}} routes are completed in fully dry conditions (i.e. no ice or snow), the "M" suffix of the {{gli|M-grade}} is swapped for a "D".}}
{{term|dab}}
{{defn|A term in {{gli|bouldering}} for touching the ground, {{gli|crash pad}}, spotter, or hold from other {{gli|route}}.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | title=Do Ethical Dabs in Bouldering Exist? | first=Noah | last=Walker | date=21 July 2021 | accessdate=5 March 2023 | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/do-ethical-dabs-in-bouldering-exist/}}</ref>}}
A special-purpose type of {{gli|sling}} with multiple sewn or tied loops, used in {{gli|aid climbing|aid}} and {{gli|big wall climbing}}.}}
{{term|dead hang}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Climbing World Championships 2018 Lead Final Garnbret 03.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Dead hang|Dead hanging}}''']]
When a climber hangs limp, such that their weight is held by arm [[ligament]] tension rather than by muscles.}}
{{term|deadman anchor}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''snow anchor''' and '''T-slot'''}} An object which lies horizontally, buried in the snow, serving as an {{gli|anchor}} for an attached {{gli|fixed rope}}.<ref>{{Cite book|title=Mountaineering : the freedom of the hills|year=2017|publisher=Mountaineers Books |isbn=9781680510034|oclc=978286879}}</ref>}}
{{term|deadpoint}}
{{defn|A controlled {{gli|dynamic motion}} in which the hold is grabbed with one hand at the apex of upward motion of the body, while one or both feet and the other hand maintain contact with the rock.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Climbing Movement: 17. The DeadPoint |work=Climbing Tech Tips |date=20 August 2017 |access-date=20 May 2019 |url=https://climbingtechtips.com/instructional-climbing-videos/climbing-movement/the-deadpoint/ |archive-date=20 September 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200920014845/https://climbingtechtips.com/instructional-climbing-videos/climbing-movement/the-deadpoint/ |url-status=dead }}</ref> See ''{{gli|dyno|dynos}}''.}}
{{term|deck}}
{{defn|The ground below a climbing route (i.e they fell to the ground and "hit the deck"). See ''{{gli|ground fall}}''.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{gli|Free solo climbing}} on an overhanging route over a body of water to absorb any fall.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|[[Descender (climbing)|descender]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''rappel device'''.}}
A mechanical device that enables a controlled descent on a {{gli|fixed rope}}; {{gli|belay device|belay devices}} can be descenders.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|[[dexamethasone]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''dex'''.}}
A drug to treat [[high-altitude cerebral edema]] (HACE) and [[high-altitude pulmonary edema]] (HAPE).<ref name=MedicalProblems>{{cite web |author1=Cymerman, A |author2=Rock, PB |title=Medical Problems in High Mountain Environments. A Handbook for Medical Officers |publisher=US Army Research Inst. of Environmental Medicine Thermal and Mountain Medicine Division Technical Report |id=USARIEM-TN94-2 |url=http://archive.rubicon-foundation.org/7976 |access-date=2009-03-05 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090423042510/http://archive.rubicon-foundation.org/7976 |archive-date=2009-04-23 |url-status=usurped }}</ref>
}}
{{term|dialled}}
{{defn|To have a complete understanding of a particular climbing move or sequence of moves on a route.}}
{{term|[[Diamox]]}}
{{defn|A drug used to inhibit the onset of [[altitude sickness]]; otherwise known as ''acetazolamide''.<ref name=MedicalProblems />}}
{{term|dihedral}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Red Rocks - Climbing the Fox - 1.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Dihedral}}''']]
An open book-shaped {{gli|corner}} formed at the intersection of two flat rock faces; the opposite of an ''{{gli|arête}}''.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|direttissima}}
{{defn|Italian for "shortest link", is the most direct route to the summit of a mountain up the fall line (e.g. the ''Brandler-Hasse Direttissima'' on the [[Cima Grande di Lavaredo|Cima Grande]], [[Dolomites]]); origin of the term is often attributed to [[Emilio Comici]] who said: "I wish some day to make a route, and from the summit let fall a drop of water, and this is where my route will have gone".<ref>{{cite web | url=https://gripped.com/news/film-emilio-comici-angel-of-the-dolomites/ | title=Film: Emilio Comici – Angel of the Dolomites | date=8 July 2015 | magazine=Gripped Magazine | accessdate=25 August 2023}}</ref>}}
{{term|direct start}}
{{defn|A new variation of an existing rock climbing route that avoids detours taken before the main line is reached due to their greater difficulty (e.g. [[Suprême Jumbo Love]] as a direct start to [[Jumbo Love]]).}}
{{term|dirtbag}}
{{defn|A climber who lives modestly and often itinerantly, to maximize the amount of time climbing. Practitioners included [[Jan and Herb Conn]] and [[Fred Beckey]] (from the film: ''Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey'').<ref>{{Cite web|title=DIRTBAG: THE LEGEND OF FRED BECKEY Screening|url=https://www.mountaineers.org/locations-lodges/seattle-program-center/events/dirtbag-the-movie|access-date=2021-02-07|website=The Mountaineers|language=en}}</ref>}}
{{term|double ropes}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''half ropes'''.}} [[File:Hebrides climbing - The Raven.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|Using '''{{gli|double ropes}}''']]
In {{gli|lead climbing}} where two thinner ropes are used instead of a single rope to manage {{gli|drag|rope drag}}. Compare ''{{gli|twin ropes}}''.<ref name=CL50/>}}
{{term|downclimb}}
{{defn|To descend by climbing downward (rather than by {{gli|abseiling}} or {{gli|lower-off|lowering off}}), after completing a climb, or {{gli|bail}}ing.}}
{{term|drag}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''rope drag'''.}}
Friction from the rope running over the rock and through the lower {{gli|protection}}. See ''{{gli|slack}}'' and ''{{gli|double ropes}}''.<ref>{{cite journal|last1=Ellison|first1=Julie|title=Extension Basics|journal=Climbing|date=11 January 2013|url=http://www.climbing.com/skills/extension-basics/|access-date=9 December 2016}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Preventing Rope Drag|url=http://www.climbingtechniques.org/preventing-rope-drag.html|website=ClimbingTechniques.org|access-date=9 December 2016}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-lead-climb/ | title=A Beginner's Guide to Lead Climbing | first=Stephen | last=Potter | date=23 August 2022 | accessdate=24 December 2022}}</ref>}}
{{term|drilled baby angle}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Red Rocks - Piton at Great Red Book Rock.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Drilled baby angle}}''']]
{{ghat|Also '''drilled pitons'''.}}
A type of {{gli|anchor}} used in soft rock instead of {{gli|bolt|bolts}} that uses a "baby angle" ({{gli|piton}}) {{gli|rock hammer|hammered}} into a drilled hole, which some think is better in soft rock than bolts that can crack the rock.<ref>{{cite web|title=Drilling Bolts? Do Not Do This! |url=https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/105890815/drilling-bolts-do-not-do-this|website=Mountain Project|access-date=15 December 2017}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Drilled Pitons in the desert| url=https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/105950741/drilled-pitons-in-the-desert|website=Mountain Project|access-date=15 December 2017}}</ref>
}}
{{term|drive-by}}
{{defn|A {{gli|deadpoint}} where one arm crosses over the other to reach a hold that is above and to the side.}}
An advanced [[rock-climbing technique]] where the knee is dropped downwards to twist the hips—and the centre of gravity—closer to the rock face, thus increasing the amount of upward reach and torque available to the climber; the unique stresses on the knee can lead to serious injuries.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name="REI"/>}}
Using {{gli|ice climbing}} tools such as {{gli|crampons}} and {{gli|ice axe|ice axes}}, on bare rock. See ''{{gli|Mixed climbing}}''.}}
{{term|[[Dry Tooling Style]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''DTS'''.}}
Type of {{gli|dry-tooling}} with additional restrictions and particularly a prohibition on {{gli|yaniro}} moves.}}
{{term|[[Dülfersitz]]}}
{{defn|A classical non-mechanical {{gli|abseiling}} technique where the {{gli|fixed rope}} is wrapped around the body.}}
{{term|[[dynamic rope]]}}
{{defn|An elastic {{gli|climbing rope}} that softens falls to some extent and absorbs the energy of heavy loads. Compare ''{{gli|static rope}}''.<ref name=CL50/>}}
{{term|dyno}}
{{defn|In rock climbing, a dynamic jump or leap to grab an out-of-reach hold; failure to grab the hold will usually result in a {{gli|fall}}. See also ''{{gli|paddling}}'' and ''{{gli|campusing}}''.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/><ref name=CL56/>}}
{{glossaryend}}
==E==
{{glossary}}
{{term|[[Grade (climbing)#British|E-grade]]}}
{{defn|Part of the British adjectival grading system that is used to rank the level of risk (a separate grade is given for technical difficulty) of {{gli|traditional climbing}} routes, and which goes E1, E2, E3, ... to E11 (an additional metric is used for technical difficulty).<ref name=AlpinistGrades/>}}
{{term|edging}}
{{defn|Using the edge of a {{gli|climbing shoe}} on a narrow foothold; in the absence of footholds, {{gli|smearing}} is used.}}
{{term|Egyptian}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Janja Garnbret, World Championships, 17 09 2016 Paris.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Egyptian}}''']]
See ''{{gli|Drop knee}}''.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name="REI"/>}}
{{term|Egyptian bridging}}
{{defn|The same position as {{gli|bridging}} or {{gli|chimneying}}, but with one leg in front and one behind the body.}}
{{term|[[eight-thousander]]}}
{{defn|A mountain whose elevation exceeds 8,000 meters (26,247 ft) [[Height above mean sea level|a.s.l]], of which there are only 14 in the world.}}
{{term|eliminate}}
{{defn|no=1 | A {{gli|bouldering}} move, or series of moves, where certain holds are placed "off bounds".<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{defn|no=2 | A British climbing term for a route that does not take the most obvious or direct line, and instead 'eliminates' the use of other features to create its line (e.g. not allowing the climber to use a nearby crack in making their ascent).<ref name=UKC/>}}
A piece of {{gli|protection}} equipment used in {{gli|via ferrata}} climbing to absorb the energy of the arrest of any fall. See ''{{gli|lanyard}}''.}}
{{term|epic}}
{{defn|An otherwise ordinary climb that turned into a major struggle.}}
{{term|ERNEST}}
{{defn|An acronym for Equalised, Redundant, No Extension, Strong, and Timely, in building {{gli|anchor|anchors}}. See ''{{gli|serene|SERENE}}''.}}
{{term|etrier}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Tatryhakowka.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|Using an '''{{gli|etrier}}''']]
A short ladder made of {{gli|webbing}} that is used for {{gli|aid climbing}}.<ref name=UKC/><ref>{{cite book|first=Harvey|last=Frommer|title=The Sports Junkie's Book of Trivia, Terms, and Lingo: What They Are, Where They Came From, and How They're Used|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Zf0lAAAAQBAJ&pg=PA308|year=2005|publisher=Taylor Trade Publishing|isbn=978-1-4616-2603-9|page=308}}</ref>}}
{{term|[[European Death Knot|European death knot]]}}
{{defn|A flat overhand used to join a pair of ropes for retrievable {{gli|abseil|abseils}}; considered dubious in America.}}
{{term|[[expedition style]]}}
{{ghat|Also ''' siege tactics'''.}}
{{defn|Using teams of support people (e.g. support climbers, sherpas, and/or equipment porters, etc.), and equipment (e.g. {{gli|fixed rope}}, base camps, etc.) in helping the lead climbers reach the eventual summit; opposite of {{gli|alpine style}}.}}
{{term|[[Exposure (heights)|exposure]]}}
{{defn|The level of empty space below or around a climber who is not in a secure position.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{glossaryend}}
==F==
{{glossary}}
{{term|[[face climbing]]}}
{{defn|Any climbing on vertical rock using finger holds, {{gli|edge|edges}}, and {{gli|smearing|smears}}, as opposed to {{gli|crack climbing}}.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/>}}
{{term|[[fall factor]]}}
{{defn|Ratio of the height (h) a climber falls to the rope length (l) available to absorb the energy of a fall.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|false peak}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''false summit'''}}
A [[summit (topography)|peak]] that appears to be the pinnacle of the mountain but upon reaching, it turns out the [[summit]] is higher (and further ahead).}}
{{term|figure-four}}
{{defn|1=[[File:2016 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour Cheongsong - 59.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|A '''{{gli|figure-four}}''' move]]
{{ghat|Also '''figure of four''' and '''figure-four move''' and '''yaniro'''}}
An advanced [[climbing technique]] in which the climber hooks a leg over the opposite arm (which needs to be in a good handhold), and then pushes down with this leg to achieve a greater vertical reach; more common in {{gli|mixed climbing}}.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|figure-nine}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''figure of nine''' and '''figure-nine move'''}}
A variation of the {{gli|figure-four}} move where the "same-side" leg is used instead of the "opposite" leg.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|[[Figure 8 (climbing)|figure eight]]}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Abseilachter mit Seil.JPG|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Figure eight}}''' belay]]
A {{gli|belay device}} or {{gli|descender}} that is shaped like the number eight.<ref name=UKC/><ref name="ClimbingTechniques"/>
A knot commonly used to {{gli|tie in}} a climber's {{gli|harness}} to the climbing rope.
}}
{{term|finger jam}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''finger lock'''.}}
A type of {{gli|jamming|jam}} using the fingers in a crack.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/>}}
{{term|[[Hangboard|finger board]]}}
{{defn|Training equipment used to build finger strength. See also ''{{gli|hangboard}}''.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|[[first ascent]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''FA'''.}}
The first successful ascent of a new {{gli|route}} by any means, including {{gli|aid climbing}} (i.e. not via {{gli|free climbing}}).}}
{{term|[[first free ascent]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''FFA'''.}}
The {{gli|first ascent}} of a new {{gli|route}} without {{gli|aid climbing|aid}}, following the {{gli|free climbing}} criteria of a {{gli|redpoint}}.}}
{{term|[[first female free ascent]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''FFFA'''.}}
The first female to complete a free ascent of a route that has already had an FFA.}}
{{term|fist jam}}
{{defn|A type of {{gli|jamming|jam}} using the hand.}}
{{term|[[fixed rope]]}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Žumarování.JPG|thumb|upright=0.7|{{gli|jumar|Jumaring}} up a '''{{gli|fixed rope}}''' using an {{gli|ascender}}]]
A rope that hangs from a fixed attachment point; commonly used for {{gli|abseil|abseiling}} (going down) or for {{gli|jumar|jumaring}} (going up).}}
{{term|flagging}}
{{defn|A [[rock-climbing technique]] where a leg is held in a position to maintain balance, rather than to support weight, often to prevent a {{gli|barn-door}}.<ref name=UKC/> There are three types of flagging:<ref name="ClimbingTechniques"/><ref name="REI"/>
;normal flag : Flagging foot stays on the same side (e.g. flagging right foot to the right side of the body).<ref name="ClimbingTechniques"/><ref name="REI"/>
;reverse inside-flag : Flagging foot is crossed in front of the foot that is on a foothold.<ref name="ClimbingTechniques"/><ref name="REI"/>
;reverse outside-flag : Flagging foot is crossed behind the foot that is on a foothold.<ref name="ClimbingTechniques"/><ref name="REI"/>
}}
{{term|flake}}
{{defn|A thin slab of rock detached from the main face offering a hold, although it may become detached.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|flash}}
{{defn|To ascend a route on the first attempt, but having obtained {{gli|beta}}; with no beta, it is an {{gli|on-sight}}.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/><ref name=Onsight/><ref name=SC/>}}
{{term|[[Grade (climbing)#Font grade|font]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''Fontainebleau grade'''.}}
The French {{gli|grade}} system for {{gli|bouldering}}, which goes: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6A, 6B, 6C, 7A, 7B, 7C, .... , to 9A; with the American {{gli|v-grade|V-grade}} system, is the most common worldwide boulder-grading system. Font grades are often confused with {{gli|French grade}}s.<ref name=CAI/>}}
{{term|term=foot jam|content=foot jam {{anchor|footjam}} }}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''heel-to-toe jam'''.}}
A technique of {{gli|jamming}} the foot into a large crack by twisting so that the heel and toes touch the sides.}}
{{term|flapper}}
{{defn|The tearing of skin and flesh due to friction with sharp or rough surfaces. }}
{{term|[[fourteener]]}}
{{defn|A mountain summit that exceeds {{convert|14000|ft|m}}, particularly one in the contiguous United States.}}
{{term|[[FreeBASE (climbing)|freeBASE]]}}
{{defn|{{gli|Free solo climbing}} but with a [[BASE jumping]] parachute as a backup in the event of a fall.}}
{{term|[[free climbing]]}}
{{defn|Climbing without artificial {{gli|aid climbing|aids}} other than for {{gli|protection}}; can be done as {{gli|sport climbing}} or {{gli|traditional climbing}}.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|term=free solo climbing|content=[[free solo climbing]] {{anchor|free soloing}} }}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''free soloing'''.}}[[File: Michael Reardon - free soloing in Joshua Tree.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Free soloing}}''']]
Climbing without any type of {{gli|aid climbing|aid}} or any form of climbing {{gli|protection}}.}}
{{term|[[French free climbing]]}}
{{defn|The use of very basic {{gli|aid climbing}} techniques (i.e. {{gli|A-grade|A0-graded}} aid techniques such as pulling on climbing protection) to bypass a short section that is not easily climbable, particularly used in {{gli|big wall climbing}}.<ref>{{cite web | title=What is French free climbing | website=Climber | url=https://www.climbernews.com/what-is-french-free-climbing/ | date=12 April 2021 | accessdate=5 March 2023}}</ref>}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''Sport climbing grade''', and '''Plaisir grade'''}}
The French {{gli|grade}} system for {{gli|sport climbing}}, which goes: 5a, 5b, 5c, 6a, 6b, 6c, 7a, 7b, 7c, .... , to 9c; with the American {{gli|yosemite decimal system|YDS}} system, is the most common sport climbing grading system. French grades are often confused with {{gli|font}} grades.<ref name=CAI/>}}
{{term|French start}}
{{defn|Moving off for the second hold without being established on the start holds, thus using the floor as a foothold. In most {{gli|competition climbing}}, including {{gli|IFSC}} events, starting a climb in this manner invalidates the attempt.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://cdn.ifsc-climbing.org/images/World_Competitions/2021_IFSC_Rules_v165.pdf|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210508042833/https://cdn.ifsc-climbing.org/images/World_Competitions/2021_IFSC_Rules_v165.pdf|url-status=usurped|archive-date=May 8, 2021|title= 2021 Rules |access-date=2021-12-04 |author= IFSC 2021 Rules Commission}}</ref>}}
{{term|frenchies}}
{{defn|An exercise used to develop lock-off strength consisting of pull-ups that stop with the elbows locked at angles between 20 and 160 degrees.}}
{{term|friable}}
{{defn|Delicate and easily broken rock, or ice, often dangerously so.}}
{{term|friction climbing}}
{{defn|A [[rock-climbing technique]] relying solely on the [[friction]] between the sloped rock and the sole of the {{gli|climbing shoe|shoe}}.}}
{{term|Friend}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Climbing gear - Wild Country Friends - 06.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Friend|Friends}}''']]
The name of Wild Country's {{gli|spring-loaded camming device}} (SLCD) {{gli|protection}}, and a generic name for SLCDs.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|[[front pointing]]}}
{{defn|An {{gli|ice climbing}} technique that uses the frontmost-spikes of the {{gli|crampons}} to ascend iced routes.}}
{{term|fruit boot}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Ice Climbing Fruit Boots.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|fruit boot|Fruit boot}}''']]
Type of lightweight shoe used in {{gli|mixed climbing}} and {{gli|ice climbing}} that have in-built {{gli|crampons}}.}}
{{glossaryend}}
==G==
{{glossary}}
{{term|[[gaiters]]}}
{{defn|Mountaineering clothing equipment that is worn over the boots and lower leg to give added protection and waterproofing.}}
{{term|Gaston}}
{{defn|A climbing grip using one hand with the thumb down and elbow out, like a reverse {{gli|side pull}}. The grip maintains friction against a hold by pressing outward toward the elbow. Named for [[Gaston Rébuffat]].<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/><ref name="REI"/>}}
{{term|gate flutter}}
{{defn|The unwelcome action of the gate on a {{gli|carabiner}} opening during a fall.}}
{{term|[[gendarme (mountaineering)|gendarme]]}}
{{defn|A rock-pinnacle or isolated rock-tower encountered along a ridge; often at the intersection of ridges.}}
{{term|Geneva rappel}}
{{defn|A modified {{gli|Dulfersitz}} {{gli|rappel}} using the hip and downhill arm for friction — less complex, but less friction and control.}}
{{term|GiGi}}
{{defn|A {{gli|belay device|belay plate device}} for belaying a second from above that has auto-blocking; made by Kong. See also ''{{gli|sticht plate|Sticht plate}}''.}}
A voluntary act of sliding down a steep slope of snow using an {{gli|ice axe}} for control.}}
{{term|[[Grade (climbing)|grade]]}}
{{defn|Classifications intended as an objective measure of the technical difficulty of a climbing route (including rock, ice, bouldering, mixed, and aid). The most widely used {{gli|lead climbing}}} grading systems are the {{gli|French grade|French sport climbing grades}}, and the American {{gli|yosemite decimal system|Yosemite Decimal System}}; for {{gli|bouldering}}, it is the {{gli|font}} grade and the {{gli|v-grade|V-grade}} systems.<ref name=UKC/><ref name=CAI/>}}
{{term|[[List of grade milestones in rock climbing|grade milestone]]}}
{{defn|The {{gli|first free ascent}} (FFA) by a {{gli|lead climber}} of a new {{gli|climbing route}} that sets a new grade level (e.g. the first-ever {{climbing grade|9b}} grade milestone was [[Chris Sharma]]'s FFA of ''[[Jumbo Love]]'' in 2008).}}
{{term|greenpoint}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''greenpointing'''.}}
Ascending a {{gli|sport climbing}} route but only using {{gli|traditional climbing}} protection (e.g. ''[[Principle Hope]]''). See ''{{gli|redpoint}}''.<ref name=Gripped100>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/redpoint-pinkpoint-and-headpoint-what-do-they-mean/ | title=Redpoint, Pinkpoint, and Headpoint – What Do They Mean? | first=Aaron | last=Pardy | date=5 November 2022 | accessdate=21 December 2022}}</ref>}}
{{term|[[Grigri (climbing)|Grigri]]}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Belaying grigri.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|{{gli|Belaying}} with a '''{{gli|grigri}}''']]
A {{gli|belay device}} invented and manufactured by [[Petzl]]; also used in [[rope solo climbing]].<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|gronked}}
{{defn|Accidentally going off-route {{gli|lead climbing|leading}} into a harder route; from the notorious climb ''Gronk'' in [[Avon Gorge]].}}
{{term|ground fall}}
{{defn|{{ghat|Also '''decking'''.}}
Where a {{gli|lead climber}} falls and hits the ground, either because their {{gli|protection}} failed (e.g. {{gli|zipper fall}}), the {{gli|runout}} was too great, or the {{gli|belayer}} failed to arrest or hold the rope.<ref name=UKC/>}}
A training device to increase the climber's arm and finger strength. See ''{{gli|campus board}}''.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/hangboarding-easier-or-harder/ | title=Hangboarding For Everyone | date=6 October 2022 | accessdate=10 March 2023 | first=Kevin | last=Corrigan}}</ref>}}
{{term|hangdog}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''hangdogging'''.}}
To hang on the rope, or a piece of {{gli|protection}}, after falling, and then start reclimbing without returning to the ground.<ref name=CL8>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | title=How to Hangdog Sport Climbing | date=21 July 2022 | accessdate=3 March 2023 | first=Laz | last=Haas | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-hangdog-sport-climbing/}}</ref>}}
{{term|[[hanging belay]]}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Pou Anaiak el niño 8b - panoramio.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|Using a '''{{gli|hanging belay}}''' (bottom climber)]]
Where the {{gli|belay station}} of the {{gli|belayer}} is suspended from the ground and tied to the wall via a fixed {{gli|anchor}} point; used in {{gli|big wall|big wall climbing}} and {{gli|multi-pitch climbing}}.}}
{{term|[[heel spurs (climbing)|heel spurs]]}}
{{defn|Type of {{gli|crampons|crampon}} attachment to the back of the heel used in {{gli|mixed climbing}} to perform a {{gli|heel hook}}.<ref name=RI1>{{cite web | magazine=[[Rock & Ice]] | url=https://www.rockandice.com/opinion/is-mixed-climbing-legitimate/ | title=Is Mixed Climbing Legitimate? | first=Ryan | last=Nelson | date=27 February 2012 | accessdate=30 April 2023 | archive-date=30 April 2023 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230430121105/https://www.rockandice.com/opinion/is-mixed-climbing-legitimate/ | url-status=dead }}</ref>}}
A severe form of [[altitude sickness]] caused by physical exertion without sufficient oxygen.<ref name=MedicalProblems />}}
{{term|[[Climbing harness|harness]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''climbing harness'''.}}
A sewn nylon webbing load-bearing device that is worn around the climber's waist and thighs, and to which the climbing rope, and other load-bearing climbing devices, can be attached.<ref name=UKC/>}}
A large hard-wearing bag for supplies and equipment that can be dragged up multi-pitch or {{gli|big wall}} routes.}}
{{term|headpoint}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''headpointing'''.}}
{{gli|Top-roping}} a {{gli|traditional climbing}} route before {{gli|clean|lead climbing}} it to practice the moves. See ''{{gli|redpoint}}''.<ref name=Gripped100/>}}
{{term|[[headwall]]}}
{{defn|A region at the top of a cliff or rock face that steepens dramatically.}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Emily Harrington sends Golden Gate (5.13 VI) in El Capitan - 04.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Heel hook}}''']]
Using the back of the heel to apply pressure on a {{gli|hold}} for balance or for leverage.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/><ref name="ClimbingTechniques">{{cite web |title=Intermediate Moves |url=http://www.climbingtechniques.org/intermediate-moves.html |website=ClimbingTechniques.org |access-date=13 March 2019 |language=en}}</ref>
}}
{{term|heel-toe}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''heel-toe cam'''.}}
A combination of a {{gli|toe hook}} and {{gli|heel hook}} to hold the body onto the climbing route.}}
{{term|hero loop}}
{{defn|A short {{gli|runner}} made of 5- to 8-mm {{gli|cord}} tied in to a loop. Commonly used for self-belay during {{gli|rappel}}, escaping a {{gli|belay}}, and in {{gli|crevasse}} rescue.<ref>{{Cite book|title=Mountaineering : the freedom of the hills|year=2017|publisher=Mountaineers Books |isbn=9781680510034|oclc=978286879}}</ref>}}
{{term|[[Hex (climbing)|hexcentric]]}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Climbing gear - Black Diamond Hexes - 08.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|hex|Hexes}}''']]
{{ghat|Also a '''hex'''.}}
A {{gli|protection|protective device}} consisting of an eccentric hexagonal {{gli|nut}} attached to a wire loop.}}
A {{gli|boulder problem}} over circa {{convert|5-10|m|ft|adj=on}} high, where falling is dangerous.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|[[hip belay]]}}
{{defn|A method of {{gli|belay|belaying}}, whereby the rope friction is increased by passing the rope around the hip of the belayer.}}
{{term|[[climbing hold|hold]]}}
{{defn|A place to temporarily cling, grip, jam, press, or stand in the process of climbing a route.<ref name=UKC/> See ''{{gli|volume hold}}''.}}
{{term|[[HMS carabiner]]}}
{{defn|A round-ended {{gli|carabiner}} for use with a {{gli|Munter hitch}} (from German for the hitch; ''Halbmastwurfsicherung'').}}
{{term|[[Fifi hook|hook]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''fifi hook''' and '''cam hook'''.}}
A mechanical piece of [[climbing equipment]] used in {{gli|aid climbing}}. See also ''{{gli|skyhook}}''.}}
{{term|hueco}}
{{defn| A round hold consisting of a pocket in the rock with a positive lip, varying in size from a single finger (a "mono") to body-sized. The term comes from [[Hueco Tanks]] that is notable for huecos, the Spanish term for a "hole".}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Matériel d'escalade - studio WMCH - pioche Petzel.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|Modern '''{{gli|ice axe}}''']]
A multi-purpose tool used in {{gli|alpine climbing}} that is a combination of an ice pick, {{gli|adze}}, and pointed stick.}}
{{term|[[ice climbing]]}}
{{defn|Ascending iced routes (e.g. waterfalls, and [[couloir]]s), with specialized equipment. See ''{{gli|mixed climbing}}''.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/>}}
A lightweight {{gli|ice axe}} with a hammer and pick head on a short handle, and no spike. See also ''{{gli|rock hammer}}''.}}
{{term|ice piton}}
{{defn|1=[[File:EishakenSchrauben.JPG|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|ice piton|Ice pitons}}''' (left), and '''{{gli|ice screw}}''' (right)]]
A long, wide, serrated {{gli|piton}} that can be used for weak {{gli|protection}} on ice.}}
{{term|[[ice screw]]}}
{{defn|Modern {{gli|protection}} device in {{gli|ice climbing}}, with the tubular ice screw as the strongest.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_CA/ice-climbing-protection/express-ice-screw-BD4902100000ALL1.html | title=Best Ice Climbing tools | Black Diamond Ice Axes | Black Diamond® Climbing Gear }}</ref>}}
{{term|[[ice tool]]}}
{{ghat|Also '''technical axe'''.}}
{{defn|A specialized elaboration of the modern {{gli|ice axe}} that is used in modern advanced {{gli|ice climbing}}.}}
{{term|[[International Federation of Sport Climbing|IFSC]]}}
{{defn|Acronym for the international body that organises and regulates {{gli|competition climbing}}. See ''{{gli|uiaa|UIAA}}''.}}
{{term|[[indoor climbing]]}}
{{defn|Rock climbing that takes place on artificial {{gli|climbing wall}}s that are set up inside buildings.}}
{{term|in-situ}}
{{defn|Denotes {{gli|protection}} that is installed on the route (e.g. "there is a {{gli|piton}} and {{gli|sling}} "in-situ" at the {{gli|crux}}").<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|isolation zone}}
{{defn|In {{gli|competition climbing}}, an area where competitiors are kept to prevent them getting {{gli|beta}} on the upcoming routes.<ref name=IFSCRules2023>{{cite web | website=[[International Federation of Sport Climbing]] | url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/rules | title=IFSC RULES 2023 | date=April 2023 | accessdate=2 April 2023}}</ref>}}
{{glossaryend}}
==J==
{{glossary}}
{{term|jamming}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Coyne Crack 5.11+ - Supercrack Buttress - Indian Creek.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|Hand '''{{gli|jamming}}''']]
Wedging a body part into a crack, including {{gli|finger jam}}, {{gli|foot jam}}, {{gli|hand jam}}, and {{gli|chest jam}}.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|jib}}
{{defn|A very small foothold, large enough for the big toe, relying heavily on friction to support the weight.}}
{{defn|An alternative to the {{gli|prusik|Prusik knot}}, useful when the climber is short of cord but has plenty of webbing.}}
{{term|knee bar|content=knee bar {{anchor|kneebar}} }}
{{defn|1=[[File:Hueco Tanks - Schwerer Gustav - V11.webm|thumb|thumbtime=12|Using a '''{{gli|knee bar}}''']]
Wedging a knee against a hold in such a way as to allow the other limbs to be released and rested.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=kneebar2>{{cite web|last1=Buys|first1=Jordan|title=Use your knees!|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3154|magazine=UKClimbing|date=15 November 2010 |access-date=12 December 2016}}</ref>
}}
{{term|knee drop}}
{{defn|See ''{{gli|Egyptian}}''.}}
{{term|knee pad | content=knee pad {{anchor|knee pad}} }}
{{defn|An artificial pad that is worn on the lower thigh to protect a climber when performing a {{gli|knee bar}}; initially controversial as they raised technical standards, but came to be accepted like climbing shoes.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | date=31 December 2020 | accessdate=25 June 2024 | first=Noah | last=Walker | title=Grading: Adam Ondra and Alex Megos on Ethics and Kneepads | url=https://gripped.com/news/rock/grading-ondra-and-megos-on-ethics-and-kneepads/}}</ref><ref name=AO>{{cite web | url=https://adamondra.com/updates/climbing-ethics | title=Climbing Ethics | author=[[Adam Ondra]] | website=AdamOndra.com | accessdate=1 January 2022 | date=8 January 2021}}</ref>
Lightweight rigid aluminum ladders are used in {{gli|expedition style}} mountaineering to cross crevasses or on difficult sections as a form of {{gli|aid climbing}} support (this can also be done with flexible ''{{gli|bachar ladder}}s''). See also ''{{gli|aider}}''.}}
{{term|[[Lanyard (climbing)|lanyard]]}}
{{defn|1=[[File:ViaFerrataLanyardPetzlScorpio.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|A Petzl '''{{gli|lanyard}}''' and '''{{gli|energy absorber}}''']]
A Y-shaped piece of {{gli|protection}} equipment used in {{gli|via ferrata}} climbing that attaches the {{gli|harness}} to the fixed steel cables. Lanyards often attach to {{gli|energy absorber}}s given the higher {{gli|fall factor}} of via ferrata climbing.}}
Climbing an edge by {{gli|side pull|side-pulling}} with both hands and using opposing friction for the feet.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/><ref name="REI"/>}}
{{term|[[lead climbing]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''leading'''.}}
A form of climbing in which a {{gli|lead climber}} clips their {{gli|belay}} rope into {{gli|protection}} equipment as they ascend.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|[[lead climber]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''leader'''.}}
The individual ascending the route in {{gli|lead climbing}}; the other person is the {{gli|belayer}}.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|leader fall}}
{{defn|A {{gli|lead climber}} fall while {{gli|lead climbing}}; will be ''at least'' twice the distance to the last piece of {{gli|protection}}.}}
{{term|Leavittation}}
{{defn|A technique used to climb {{gli|off-width}} cracks pioneered in the late 1970s by Randy Leavitt and [[Tony Yaniro]] that uses alternating hand-fist stacks and leg-calf locks; helpful for resting, and when placing {{gli|protection}}.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/news/leavittation-how-to-climb-offwidth-cracks/ | title=Leavittation: How To Climb Offwidth Cracks | accessdate=6 March 2023| date=8 May 2013}}</ref>}}
{{term|[[liquid chalk]]}}
{{defn|A liquid form of {{gli|climbing chalk}} but with a longer hold time.}}
{{term|live rope}}
{{defn|In {{gli|lead climbing}}, the segment of the rope between the {{gli|lead climber}} and the {{gli|belayer}}.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|lock-off}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Climbing World Championships 2018 Lead Semi Klingler (BT0A1022).jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|Resting '''{{gli|lock off}}''']]
A climber holding a fixed position with one bent arm, usually while clipping or reaching for another hold with their other arm, or resting. Contrast with {{gli|dead hang}}.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/>}}
{{term|lolotte}}
{{defn|See ''{{gli|Egyptian}}''.}}
{{term|lower-off}}
{{defn|When a {{gli|lead climber}} is lowered down the route by the {{gli|belayer}} holding their weight on the {{gli|belay device}}.}}
{{term|low zone}}
{{defn|In competition bouldering, a marked hold somewhere between the start and zone. It is either worth some number of points (less than the zone) or used as a tiebreaker.}}
Part of the {{gli|mixed climbing}} system for {{gli|grade|grading}} the technical difficulty of mixed climbing routes, which goes: M1, M2, M3, M4, M5, M6, and up to M14.<ref name=AlpinistGrades/> See also ''{{gli|D-grade}}''.}}
{{term|mantel move}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Rat rock 2 020.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Mantel}}''' move]]
Moving onto a shelf of rock by pressing down on it with the palms until the climber can stand on the "mantel" (i.e. the same action as leaving from the side of a pool).<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/><ref name="ClimbingTechniques"/><ref name="REI">{{cite web |title=Climbing Techniques and Moves {{!}} REI Expert Advice |url=https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/climbing-techniques.html |website=REI |access-date=13 March 2019}}</ref>
}}
{{term|[[mixed climbing]]}}
{{defn|A type of climbing that involves using {{gli|ice climbing}} tools on iced-up or snow-covered rock surfaces; [[mixed climbing technique]]s are used in ''{{gli|dry-tooling}}'' and in ''{{gli|alpine climbing}}''.<ref name=RI1/>}}
{{defn|A climbing hold, typically a {{gli|pocket}} or a {{gli|hueco}}, which only has enough room for one finger.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|moving together}}
{{defn|See ''{{gli|simul climbing}}''.}}
{{term|[[multi-pitch climbing]]}}
{{defn|A climb that has more than one {{gli|pitch}}; a {{gli|big wall}} route involves so many pitches, it takes over a day.}}
{{term|[[Munter hitch]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''Italian hitch''' or '''friction hitch'''.}}
A simple [[List of hitch knots|hitch]] used for {{gli|belay|belaying}} without a mechanical {{gli|belay device}}.
The easiest and most frequently used route for ascending and descending a climb.<ref>{{cite book | title=The Mountain Encyclopedia: An A to Z Compendium of Over 2,250 Terms, Concepts, Ideas, and People | first1=Frederic | last1=Hartemann | first2=Robert | last2=Hauptman | publisher=Taylor Trade Publishing | date=2005-06-15 | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ifs2AgAAQBAJ&pg=PA158| isbn=9781461703310}}</ref>}}
{{term|[[nunatak]]}}
{{defn|A mountain or rock formation that protrudes through an ice field.
{{defn|American {{gli|climbing command}} when requesting that the {{gli|belayer}} remove {{gli|belay}} equipment from the climbing rope (e.g. when cleaning top {{gli|protection}} from a lead route). Replied to with "{{gli|belay off}}".<ref name=outsidenoob/>}}
{{term|off-width}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Creeks Giving - Climbing in Indian Creek, Utah - 23.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Off-width}}''' climb]]
A crack that is too wide for effective hand or foot {{gli|jamming|jams}} but is not as large as a {{gli|chimney}}.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/> See {{gli|big bro}}.}}
{{term|on belay}}
{{defn|American {{gli|climbing command}} when they are ready to be {{gli|belay|belayed}}. Replied to with "{{gli|belay on}}".<ref name=outsidenoob/>}}
{{Redirect|On sight|the Kanye West song|On Sight}}
{{defn|To ascend a route on the first attempt, with no prior {{gli|beta}}; with beta, it is a {{gli|flash}}.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/><ref name=Onsight>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/onsight-and-flash-what-do-they-mean/ | first=Aaron | last=Pardy | date=2 November 2022 | accessdate=24 December 2022 | title=Onsight and Flash – What Do They Mean?}}</ref>}}
{{term|open book}}
{{defn|An inside angle in the rock. See also ''{{gli|dihedral}}''.}}
{{term|open project}}
{{defn|A route that was {{gli|bolt}}ed by someone (e.g. they bought and installed the bolts) but who was unsuccessful in {{gli|redpoint}}ing it, and it is now considered to be "open" to any climber to try; sometimes the original bolter will leave colored tape on the first bolt(s) to note the route is "not open".<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] |url=https://www.climbing.com/people/crusty-corner-the-red-tag-dilemma/ | title=Ah Yes: The Red-Tag / Open Project Dilemma | date=26 June 2019 | accessdate=15 September 2023 | first=Matt | last=Samet}}</ref>}}
{{term|[[Overhang (rock formation)|overhang]]}}
{{defn|A section of rock or ice that is angled beyond the vertical. See ''{{gli|roof}}''.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{glossaryend}}
==P==
{{glossary}}
{{term|paddling}}
{{defn|A multi-move {{gli|dyno}} where the climber must move quickly through a sequence of intermediate hand holds (neither of which can hold the climber for any period), with their arms mimicking a paddling action and their feet usually in mid-air, before getting to a secure position. See also ''{{gli|campusing}}''.<ref name=CL56>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-master-climbing-dynos/ | title=Uncoordinated? Here are Three Drills to Improve Your Dynamic Movement | first=Josh | last=Larson | date=14 December 2021 | accessdate=25 April 2023}}</ref> }}
{{term|passive protection}}
{{defn|Type of {{gli|protection}} that remains static during a fall; opposite of {{gli|active protection}}. See ''{{gli|nut}}s'' and ''{{gli|hexcentric}}s''.}}
{{term|[[peak-bagging]]}}
{{defn|To systematically attain every peak of a designated class of summits (e.g. [[eight-thousander]]s), sometimes under prescribed conditions (e.g. in winter), and/or in a prescribed climbing style (e.g. no [[supplementary oxygen]].)}}
{{term|peg}}
{{defn|A {{gli|piton}}.}}
{{term|[[pendulum]]}}
{{defn|no=1|Swinging on a taut anchored rope to reach the next hold in a {{gli|traverse|pendulum traverse}}.}}
{{defn|no=2|A swing experienced during a fall caused by the last piece of {{gli|protection}} being far to one side.}}
{{term|[[permadraw]]}}
{{defn|A {{gli|quickdraw}} but made from a steel cable with steel {{gli|carabiner}}s that is permanently fixed to the {{gli|bolt}}; longer wearing than aluminum quickdraws, and climbers do not need to retrieve them after a climb.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/>}}
{{term|[[personal anchor system]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''PAS'''.}}
An adjustable attachment point from a climber to a fixed {{gli|anchor}}, give them flexibility to perform other tasks.}}
A long, tubular rod driven into the snow to provide a makeshift {{gli|anchor}}.}}
{{term|pinch hold}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''pinch'''.}}
A hold, which must be "pinched" between the fingers to use it.<ref name=UKC/><ref name="ClimbingTechniques"/>}}
{{term|pinkpoint}}
{{defn|{{gli|Lead climbing}} where the {{gli|protection}} (e.g. {{gli|quickdraw}}s) are pre-installed. See also ''{{gli|greenpoint}}'' and ''{{gli|redpoint}}''.<ref name=UKC/><ref name=Gripped100/>}}
{{term|[[Pitch (climbing)|pitch]]}}
{{defn|The climbing route between two {{gli|belay}} points with a "full pitch" being the length of the rope, circa {{convert|50|m|ft}}.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/>}}
A flat or angled metal blade of steel for {{gli|protection}} that incorporates a clipping hole for a {{gli|carabiner}} or a ring in its body that is {{gli|rock hammer|hammered}} into cracks; comes in a wide range of designs and types for different crack types and widths; common in {{gli|aid climbing}}, {{gli|big wall climbing}}, and {{gli|alpine climbing}}.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/> See also ''{{gli|rurp|RURP}}''.}}
{{term|piton catcher}}
{{defn|A clip-on string fastened to a {{gli|piton}} when inserting or removing, so as to avoid loss.}}
{{term|plunge step}}
{{defn|An aggressive step pattern for descending on hard or steep-angle snow.}}
{{defn|A {{gli|hold}} or part of a hold with a surface facing upwards, or away from the direction it is pulled, facilitating use. A positive hold is the opposite of a {{gli|sloper}}.}}
{{term|pressure breathing}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''Whittaker wheeze'''.}}
Forcefully exhaling to facilitate O<sub>2</sub>/CO<sub>2</sub> exchange at altitude.}}
A mechanical climbing device that allows the rope to move through it in only one direction, examples being the Petzl Micro Traxion or the Camp Lift; PCDs are used in many climbing tasks including gear hauling, [[belaying]], [[top rope solo climbing]] and in [[simul-climbing]].<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-toprope-solo/ | title=Top-rope soloing: How Josh Wharton Climbs Multi-pitches Faster and With Less Energy | date=25 August 2022 | accessdate=5 March 2023 | first=Josh | last=Wharton}}</ref><ref name=GJ>{{cite web | website=GearJunkie | url=https://gearjunkie.com/climbing/rope-solo-rock-climbing-how-to | title=Rope Solo Rock Climbing: Understanding How It's Done | first=Christian | last=Black | date=3 February 2022 | accessdate=3 March 2023}}</ref> See also ''{{gli|Self-locking device}}''.}}
{{term|project}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''projecting'''.}}
An attempt over time to climb a new (worldwide or personal) {{gli|route}} or boulder {{gli|problem}} as a "project".}}
{{term|[[Protection (climbing)|protection]] }}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''pro'''.}} {{ghat|Also '''gear'''.}} [[File:Climber with equipment.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|Carrying '''{{gli|protection}}''']]
Equipment for arresting {{gli|lead climber}} falls, or to create {{gli|anchor|anchors}} for {{gli|abseil}}s or {{gli|belay}}s. Examples are {{gli|passive protection|passive}} ({{gli|bolt}}s, {{gli|copperhead}}s, {{gli|hexcentric}}s, {{gli|ice screw}}s, {{gli|nut}}s, {{gli|quickdraw}}s, and {{gli|skyhook}}s), and {{gli|active protection|active}} ({{gli|cam}}s, {{gli|friend}}s, {{gli|tricam}}s).<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|[[Prusik knot|Prusik]]}}
{{defn|A knot used for ascending a {{gli|fixed rope}}, named after Austrian [[Karl Prusik]], who developed this knot in 1931.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|pulley}}
{{defn|1=[[File:20030830중앙119구조단 산악계곡구조 훈련23.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Pulley}}''' (in red)]] {{ghat|Also '''climbing pulley'''.}}
The lightweight mechanical pully that has wide application in climbing including [[big wall climbing]] (especially gear hauling) and [[crevasse rescue]] and in [[tyrolean traverse]]ing.}}
{{term|pump}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''pumped'''.}}
The accumulation of metabolic waste products in the forearm(s) so that holding a basic grip becomes impossible.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''draw''', and '''extender'''.}}
A piece of climbing {{gli|protection}} that is used to attach a running rope to an {{gli|anchor}} or a {{gli|bolt}}. See ''{{gli|permadraw}}''.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|[[maillon|quicklink]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''[[maillon]]''' and '''maillon rapide'''.}}
A screw-type oval-shaped stainless steel {{gli|carabiner}} which is smaller than the normal carabiner.}}
{{glossaryend}}
==R==
{{glossary}}
{{term|rack}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Trad rack.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|A {{gli|traditional climbing}} '''{{gli|rack}}''' on a {{gli|harness}}]]
{{defn|no=1|Name given to the collective set of {{gli|protection}} equipment carried by a {{gli|lead climber}} up a climb.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/>}}
{{defn|no=2|A type of heavy-duty "all-weather" {{gli|descender}} known as an "abseil rack" or a "rappel rack", consisting of metal bars on a U-shaped chassis, which is frequently used in [[caving]]. An alternative heavier device is a "whaletail" (also "whale tail") which is a machined block often used by rescuers.<ref>{{cite book| title=Vertical | first=Al | last=Warild | chapter=Chapter 6: Descent| page=96 | url=https://www.cavediggers.com/files/vertical/6descent.pdf |access-date=2 July 2024 | date=1994 | edition=3rd | isbn=978-0958925372 | publisher=[[National Speleological Society]]}}</ref> }}
{{term|[[abseil|rappel]]}}{{anchor|rappelling}}
{{defn|See ''{{gli|abseil}}''.}}
{{term|rating}}
{{defn|See ''{{gli|grade}}''.}}
{{term|re-belay}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''rebelay'''.}}
Secondary or intermediate fixed {{gli|anchor|anchor point(s)}} along the length of a {{gli|fixed rope}} (i.e. in addition to the main {{gli|anchor|anchor}} at the top of the fixed rope) that is used to avoid edges that could increase rope wear.<ref>{{cite web | website=VDiff Climbing | url=https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/big-wall-fixing-pitches/ | title=How To Climb a Big Wall – Fixing Pitches | date=2024 | accessdate=10 May 2024 | first=Neil |last=Chelton}}</ref>}}
{{term|rebolting}}
{{defn|The replacement of older {{gli|bolt|bolts}} on an existing bolted {{gli|sport climbing}} route.}}
{{term|[[Redpoint (climbing)|redpoint]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''redpointing'''.}}
{{gli|free climbing|Free climbing}} a route by {{gli|lead climbing|leading}} it after having failed it or practiced it beforehand (e.g. by {{gli|hangdog|hangdogging}}, {{gli|headpoint}}ing, or {{gli|top rope climbing|top roping}}). A route climbed on the first-ever attempt (and no practice), it is an {{gli|onsight}} or a {{gli|flash}}. See ''{{gli|first free ascent}}''.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|[[removable bolt]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''RB'''.}}
A removable {{gli|protection}} {{gli|bolt}}, similar in concept to a sliding {{gli|nut}}, but shaped to fit into a drilled hole; popular in {{gli|aid climbing}}.}}
{{term|[[resole]]}}
{{defn| Resole (verb): To replace or repair the sole or sole and rand of a climbing shoe.}}
{{term|[[rest step]]}}
{{defn|An energy-saving mountaineering technique where the unweighted (uphill) leg is rested between each forward step, by "locking" the knee of the rear leg.}}
{{term|retro-bolting}}
{{defn|The addition of {{gli|bolt|bolts}} to a route that has already been ascended using {{gli|traditional climbing}} {{gli|protection}}. The technique is controversial, with ethical debate on the issues of improving climber safety versus protecting the integrity of the original traditional climbing challenge.<ref>{{cite web | website=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/opinion-not-reto-bolting-is-irresponsible-a-doctor-sounds-off/ | title=Opinion: Not Retro-Bolting Is Irresponsible. A Doctor Sounds Off. | date=26 October 2022 | accessdate=1 March 2023 | first=Sam | last=Miller}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | website=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/places/32-climbing-experiences-inform-bolting-decisions/ | title=Should We Really Retro-bolt That Dangerous Classic? | date=18 July 2023 | accessdate=12 September 2023 | first=Steve| last=Bordeau}}</ref>}}
{{term|rigging plate}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Mountain climbing equipment in Mirabad - Nishapur 01.JPG|thumb|upright=0.7|Blue '''{{gli|rigging plate}}''']] {{ghat|Also '''rigging board''' and '''bat plate'''.}}
A light metal plate with several holes that can be used as a multi-anchor device that several items can be attached to at a {{gli|belay station}}, notable versions include the Petzl PAW.}}
{{term|ripped}}
{{defn|Term to denote when a piece of {{gli|protection}} failed and "ripped-out" of the rock. See ''{{gli|zipper fall}}''.<ref name=UKC/>}}
A piece of {{gli|aid climbing}} equipment used by the {{gli|lead climber}} to attach to {{gli|bolt runner}} rivets in the rock. See also ''{{gli|carrot bolt}}''.}}
{{term|[[Rock climbing hammer|rock hammer]]}}
{{defn|1= {{ghat|Also '''wall hammer'''.}} A lightweight hammer with a short handle used for inserting {{gli|piton}}s, {{gli|bolt}}s, and {{gli|copperhead}}s in {{gli|aid climbing}} and {{gli|big wall climbing}}. See also ''{{gli|ice hammer}}''.}}
{{term|rockover move}}
{{defn|A [[rock-climbing technique]] where the body weight is transferred (or "rocked-over") to the raised up-hill leg to reach a higher hold.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|rodeo clipping}}
{{defn|To clip into the first piece of {{gli|protection}} from the ground by swinging a loop of rope so that it is caught by a pre-placed {{gli|carabiner}}.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Rock & Ice]] | date=30 October 2017 | accessdate=10 March 2023 | first=Magnus | last=Midtbø | url=https://www.rockandice.com/videos/skills/rodeo-clip-climbing-rope-skills/ | title=How to Rodeo Clip – Climbing Rope Skills | archive-date=11 March 2023 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230311010058/https://www.rockandice.com/videos/skills/rodeo-clip-climbing-rope-skills/ | url-status=dead }}</ref>}}
{{term|[[Roof (rock formation)|roof]]}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Elizabeth Furnace - Furnass 12a - 8.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|Climbing a '''{{gli|roof}}''']]
An {{gli|overhang}} that is so steep, it becomes horizontal.<ref name=UKC/>
}}
{{term|rope bag}}
{{defn|Specialist lightweight but hardwearing bag for carrying a {{gli|climbing rope}}.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/>}}
{{defn|Jumping a full rope-length from the top of a rock face with the rope attached to a fixed {{gli|anchor}} like a [[bungee cord]].}}
{{term|[[rope team]]}}
{{defn|See ''{{gli|simul climbing}}''.}}
{{term|rose move}}
{{defn|A move in which the crossing arm goes behind the other arm and is so far extended that the body is forced to twist until it ends up facing away from the rock. It was introduced by {{ill|Antoine Le Menestrel|fr}} to climb a route in [[Buoux]] called ''La rose et le vampire'' {{climbing grade|8b}} in 1985.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | accessdate=10 March 2023 | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/watch-anna-stohr-do-the-rose-move-on-the-famous-rose-route/ | title=Watch Anna Stohr do the Rose Move on the Famous Rose Route | date=22 November 2018}}</ref>}}
{{term|route}}
{{defn|See ''{{gli|climbing route}}''.}}
{{term|RP}}
{{defn|A small {{gli|protection}} {{gli|nut}} on a wire for tiny cracks with marginal holding power; named after Roland Pauligk.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|runner}}
{{defn|no=1|In the US, a {{gli|sling}} is made from nylon-blend materials, used by climbers for a multitude of purposes.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/>}}
{{defn|no=2|In the UK, any item of {{gli|protection}} placed by the {{gli|lead climber}} to reduce the length of a fall.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|runout}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Fotothek df ps 0002300 Sport ^ Klettersport.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|A long '''{{gli|runout}}''']]
In a term in {{gli|lead climbing}} for the distance between points of good {{gli|protection}}; in the [[grade (climbing)|grading of climbs]], routes with long runouts have higher adjectival "{{gli|E-grade|E}}" grade (British system), or an {{gli|r/x|R/X }}or even {{gli|X}} suffix ({{gli|yosemite decimal system|American system}}). See ''{{gli|ground fall}}''.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|[[RURP]]}}
{{defn|1=[[File:RURP by Tom Frost.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|RURP}}''']]
A miniature, postage stamp-sized chrome-moly square {{gli|piton}}, tied to a wire or rope and {{gli|rock hammer|hammered}} into cracks; created by [[Yvon Chouinard]] in 1960 for extreme {{gli|aid climbing}} routes in [[Yosemite]]; acronym for ''realized ultimate reality piton''.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Alpinist (magazine)|Alpinist]] | url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP52/tool-users-realized-ultimate-reality-piton | title=Tool Users: Realized Ultimate Reality Piton | date=6 November 2015 | first=Anders | last=Ax | accessdate=10 March 2023}}</ref>}}
{{term|R/X}}
{{defn|A suffix used in the {{gli|yosemite decimal system}} for {{gli|traditional climbing}} routes that have poor possibilities for {{gli|protection}} where any fall could be serious (e.g. ''[[Master's Edge]]''). See ''{{gli|X}}''.}}
Part of the {{gli|deep-water soloing}} system for {{gli|grade|grading}} the objective danger difficulty of DWS climbing routes, which goes: S0, S1, S2, and S3. See also ''{{gli|x|X}}''.}}
{{term|[[Saddle (landform)|saddle]]}}
{{defn|A high pass between two peaks, larger than a {{gli|col}}.}}
{{term|[[sandbagging (climbing)|sandbag]]}}
{{defn|A rock climb with a much lower official climbing {{gli|grade}} than probably deserved; sometimes due to a "trick-move" at the {{gli|crux}} that once learned, does make the route easier; or due to overly conservative grading.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|[[scrambling]]}}
{{defn|A type of climbing somewhere between hiking and graded rock climbing; involves climbing the easiest {{gli|grades}}.}}
{{term|screamer}}
{{defn|no=1|Shock absorbing sling designed to reduce peak loads in a climbing system. Very commonly used for winter / ice climbing. Made of a nylon {{gli|webbing}} structure consisting of one large loop sewn in multiple places to make a shorter length.}}
{{defn|no=2|A British term for a large {{gli|whipper}} fall.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|[[scree]]}}
{{defn|Small, loose rocks, at the base of a cliff or slope; distinguished from {{gli|talus}}.}}
{{term|screw on}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''foot chip''', '''chip''', or '''micro'''.}}
A small climbing {{gli|hold}} screwed onto the wall on a {{gli|climbing wall}}.
}}
{{term|[[second (climbing)|second]]}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Creeks Giving - Climbing in Indian Creek, Utah - 3.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|{{gli|Lead climber}} (right) and '''{{gli|second}}''' (left)]]
A climber who follows the {{gli|lead climber}}; often acts as the {{gli|belayer}}.}}
{{term|[[self-arrest]]}}
{{defn|Using the pick of an {{gli|ice axe}} to arrest a fall, or to control a {{gli|glissade}}.}}
{{term|[[self-belay]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''self-belaying'''.}}
The act of using a mechanical device for {{gli|belaying}} in {{gli|solo climbing}}. See ''{{gli|self-locking device}}''.}}
A device used in {{gli|solo climbing}}, and particularly [[rope solo climbing]], to automatically arrest falls. Examples include Wren's Silent Partner. See also ''{{gli|progress capture device}}''. Compare ''{{gli|automatic belay}}''.}}
{{term|[[Self rescue (climbing)|self rescue]]}}
{{defn|Actions taken by a climber(s) to execute their own rescue or recovery from a difficult or dangerous situation.}}
{{term|send}}
{{defn|To {{gli|free climbing|free climb}} a {{gli|route}}, via an {{gli|on-sight}}, {{gli|flash}}, or {{gli|redpoint}}.<ref name=UKC/><ref name=ClimbingDictionary/>}}
{{term|[[serac]]}}
{{defn|A large tower of ice on the surface of a glacier; falling seracs are a serious hazard to mountaineers.}}
{{term|SERENE}}
{{defn|Acronym for building {{gli|anchor|anchors}}; stands for ''Strong, Equalised, Redundant, Efficient, No Extension''. See also ''{{gli|ERNEST}}''.}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''scissor leg''', '''Elvis legs''', or '''disco knee'''.}}
The involuntary vibration of the leg due to fatigue and/or panic and stress.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|shadow match}}
{{defn|A rock climbing move to quickly switch hands on a {{gli|hold}} that can only fit one hand at a time.}}
{{term|sharp end}}
{{defn|The end of the rope that is attached to the {{gli|lead climber}}, to denote the more serious activity they are undertaking compared to the {{gli|belayer}}.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|short fixing}}
{{defn|An advanced {{gli|big wall}} [[climbing technique]] where the {{gli|lead climber}} fixes the rope at an anchor to allow the {{gli|second}} to ascend using {{gli|jumar}}s, while the leader climber then continues to ascend in a [[rope solo climbing]] fashion; unlike {{gli|simul climbing}}, neither is {{gli|belay}}ing the other.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/short-fixing/ | title=Short-Fixing | date=4 April 2012 | accessdate=10 March 2023 | first=Russ | last=Facante}}</ref><ref name=sfixsc>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/advanced-techniques-simul-climbing-and-short-fixing/ | title=Advanced Climbing Techniques: Simul-Climbing and Short-Fixing | date=23 December 2022 | accessdate=10 March 2023 | first=Miranda | last=Oakley}}</ref>}}
{{term|side pull}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Bouldering in Coopers Rock - 02.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|A '''{{gli|side pull}}''']]
A vertical {{gli|hold}} that needs to be gripped with a sideways pull towards the body.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/><ref name="REI"/>
An advanced technique in which two climbers move simultaneously upward, with the {{gli|lead climbing|leader}} placing {{gli|protection}} that the {{gli|second}} removes as they advance. A {{gli|protection capture device (PCD)}} may also be used.<ref name=sfixsc/>}}
{{term|[[single-rope technique]]}}
{{defn|The use of a single rope where one or both ends of the rope are attached to fixed {{gli|anchor}} points. See {{gli|fixed rope}}.}}
{{term|sit start}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''sit down start''' or '''SDS'''}} [[File:Bouldering at Tom Riach - 06.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|A '''{{gli|sit start}}''']]
{{gli|Bouldering}} term for a route that must be started from a seated position on the ground with hands and feet on prescribed holds; acronyms are ''SS'' (sit-start), ''SDS'' (sit-down-start), or ''assis'' (french); concept invented by John Yablonski.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/people/bouldering-sit-start-john-yablonski/ | first=Victor | last=Copeland | date=15 October 2022 | accessdate=13 August 2023 | title=The Weird Origins Of Bouldering's Sit Start}}</ref>}}
A metal {{gli|hook}} inserted on a horizontal {{gli|hold}} for {{gli|protection}} in {{gli|traditional climbing}}, or in {{gli|aid climbing}}.}}
{{term|slab}}
{{defn|A low-angle — significantly less than vertical — rock face that requires {{gli|slab climbing}} techniques.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|slab climbing}}
{{defn|A type of climbing on {{gli|slab}}s that usually emphasizes balance, footwork, and {{gli|smearing}}.}}
{{term|slack}}
{{defn|In {{gli|lead climbing}} and in {{gli|top rope climbing}}, it is the amount of ''additional rope'' that the {{gli|belayer}} has allowed; slack increases the distance of any fall before the {{gli|protection}} begins to hold the rope, but is needed to reduce {{gli|rope drag}} or {{gli|aid climbing|aid}}.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-lead-climb/ | title=A Beginner's Guide to Lead Climbing | first=Stephen | last=Potter | date=23 August 2022 | accessdate=18 March 2023}}</ref>}}
{{term|[[Sling (climbing)|sling]]}}
{{defn|A closed loop of {{gli|webbing}}.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|sloper}}
{{defn|1=[[File:BW 2012-08-26 Rustam Gelmanov RUS 0749.JPG|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Sloper}}''' hold]]
A {{gli|hold}} where the surface slopes down toward the ground, with very little {{gli|positive}} surface or lip.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/><ref name="ClimbingTechniques"/>}}
{{term|smearing}}
{{defn|To make use of friction on the sole of the {{gli|climbing shoe}} in the absence of good footholds.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/><ref name="ClimbingTechniques"/>
}}
{{term|snarg}}
{{defn|A type of tubular {{gli|ice screw}} that is inserted by hammering with an {{gli|ice hammer}}.}}
{{term|[[snow cave]]}}
{{defn|A temporary shelter constructed by digging out snow to form a cave.}}
An angled aluminum plate attached to a cable or rope that is buried into the snow to create a {{gli|deadman anchor}}.}}
{{term|[[solo climbing]]}}
{{defn|When the climber is alone (with no {{gli|second}}); if also without {{gli|protection}} is {{gli|free solo climbing}}. See [[rope solo climbing]].}}
{{term|[[speed climbing]]}}
{{defn|A {{gli|competition climbing}} discipline where competitors race in pairs up a standardized {{gli|climbing wall}}.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/>}}
{{term|spinner}}
{{defn|In {{gli|indoor climbing}}, a {{gli|hold}} that is not secure and spins in place when weight is applied.}}
{{term|splitter}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Crack climbing in Indian Creek, Utah.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|A '''{{gli|splitter}}''' crack]]
A crack with perfectly parallel sides, often in an otherwise blank face.}}
{{term|[[sport climbing]]}}
{{defn|A style of {{gli|lead climbing}} where the {{gli|protection}} is via pre-placed fixed {{gli|bolt}}s; opposite of {{gli|traditional climbing}}.<ref name=SC/> Confusingly, {{gli|competition climbing}} (which includes bolted lead climbing, but also free solo bouldering and top-roped speed climbing) is sometimes called "sport climbing".<ref name=UKC/><ref name=SC/>}}
{{term|[[Spotting (climbing)|spotting]]}}
{{defn|People standing beneath a {{gli|lead climber}} or {{gli|bouldering}} climber ready to absorb the energy of a {{gli|ground fall}}.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|sprag}}
{{defn|A type of hand position where the fingers and thumb are opposed in a tiny crack.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|[[spring-loaded camming device]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''SLCD'''}}
A type of active {{gli|protection}} device used in {{gli|crack climbing}}. See ''{{gli|cam}}''.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|[[static rope]]}}
{{defn|A non-elastic {{gli|climbing rope}} used for {{gli|abseiling}} or {{gli|jumar|jumaring}} (as a {{gli|fixed rope}}), but not {{gli|lead climbing}}. Compare ''{{gli|dynamic rope}}''.<ref name=UKC/><ref name=CL50/>}}
{{term|stein pull}}
{{defn|A technique in {{gli|mixed climbing}} and {{gli|dry-tooling}} where the ice axe is inverted and the blade wedged into a crack above the climber's head, who then pulls down on the handle of the axe to gain upward momentum. See also ''{{gli|undercling pull}}''.<ref name=C76>{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/tech-tip-ice-stein-pulling/ | title=Ice Climbing Skills: The Stein Pull | date=2 February 2004 | accessdate=30 April 2023 | first=Sean | last=Issac }}</ref>}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Red River Gorge - Long Wall - Rock Wars 1a.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Stemming}}''']]
Technique for climbing opposing corners by pushing in opposite directions with the feet and hands. See {{gli|chimneying}}.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/><ref name="ClimbingTechniques"/><ref name="REI"/>}}
{{term|step cutting}}
{{defn|Scooping steps out of snow or ice with the adze of an {{gli|ice axe}}.}}
{{term|step kicking}}
{{defn|Scooping and stamping steps out of soft snow with the feet.}}
{{defn|A {{gli|belay device}} consisting of a flat plate with a pair of slots, named after the inventor Fritz Sticht.<ref name=UKC/> See also ''{{gli|gigi|GiGi}}''.}}
{{term|stick clip}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Use of stick clip.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|Using a '''{{gli|stick clip}}''']]
A long pole with a {{gli|quickdraw}} that can be clipped into the first {{gli|bolt}} of a route from the ground.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/>}}
{{term|stopper}}
{{defn|no=1|A wedge-shaped {{gli|nut}} made by [[Black Diamond Equipment|Black Diamond]].}}
{{defn|no=2|A [[Stopper knot|knot]] used to prevent the end of a rope from running through—and detaching from—a piece of {{gli|gear}}.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|sure-footedness}}
{{defn|Sure-footedness is the ability when hiking or mountain climbing, to negotiate difficult or rough terrain safely.<ref>Soanes, Catherine and Stevenson, Angus (ed.) (2005). ''Oxford Dictionary of English'', 2nd Ed., revised, Oxford University Press, Oxford, New York, p. 1775. {{ISBN|978-0-19-861057-1}}.</ref>}}
{{glossaryend}}
==T==
{{glossary}}
{{term|tat}}
{{defn |Term to describe pieces of {{gli|webbing}} or {{gli|cord}} left on a climb (e.g. "I found some old tat") often as part of an irretrievable {{gli|anchor}} point that was part of an {{gli|abseiling|abseil station}}.<ref>{{cite web | website=[[British Mountaineering Council]] | url=https://www.thebmc.co.uk/tech-skills-abseil-stations | title=Tech skills: abseil stations | first=Dan | last=Middleton | date=2 June 2008 | accessdate=21 March 2023}}</ref>}}
{{term|take}}
{{defn |1={{ghat|Also '''take-in'''.}}
The act of taking the {{gli|slack}} out of a rope; also a {{gli|climbing command}} by a {{gli|lead climber}} to the {{gli|belayer}}.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/>}}
An area of large rock fragments on a mountainside where the rocks are stable and not loose like {{gli|scree}}.}}{{Term|talon hook}}{{Defn|A type of three-pronged climbing hook used for securing the climber to a horizontal edge in the rock face. Each prong contains a curved hook of differing widths for securing onto respective edge sizes when aid climbing.}}
{{ghat|Also '''climbing tape''' and '''second skin'''}}
Adhesive tape that is wrapped around the fingers and hands to protect the skin; particularly useful in {{gli|crack climbing}}.}}
{{term|technical grade}}
{{defn|See ''{{gli|grade}}''.}}
{{term|testpiece}}
{{defn|A route that is representative of the hardest climbs in an area at a particular {{gli|grade}} (e.g. ''[[Action Directe (climb)|Action Directe]]'' for {{gli|grade}} 9a).}}
{{term|tie in}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''tying in'''.}}
To physically attach the {{gli|harness}} to the climbing rope, usually via a {{gli|figure-eight knot}}. See ''{{gli|clip in}}''.}}
{{term|thread}}
{{defn|A {{gli|runner}} created by "threading" a {{gli|sling}} around a jammed block or through a hole in the rock.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|term=toe hook |content= toe hook {{anchor|toehook}} }}
{{defn|1=[[File:015 zehnte stadtmeisterschaft im Klettern in Munich.JPG|thumb|upright=0.7|A '''{{gli|toe hook}}''']]
Act of pressing the upper side of the toes under a {{gli|hold}} to pull the climber inwards; used on {{gli|overhang}}s.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name="ClimbingTechniques"/>
}}
{{term|[[Topo (climbing)|topo]]}}
{{defn|The graphical representation – drawing or photograph – of a climbing route, with the main obstacles marked.}}
To {{gli|belay}} from a fixed {{gli|anchor}} point above the climb; if the climber falls, they just hang. See ''{{gli|hangdog}}ging''.<ref name=UKC/><ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=SC/>}}
{{term|top-out}}
{{defn|To complete a {{gli|route}} by ascending over the top of the climb to safety.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|torque pull}}
{{defn|A technique in {{gli|mixed climbing}} and {{gli|dry-tooling}} where the ice axe is wedged into a crack and twisted to generate torque to aid upward momentum. See also ''{{gli|undercling pull}}'' and ''{{gli|stein pull}}''.<ref name=C76/>}}
{{term|tracking}}
{{defn|See ''{{gli|feet follow}}''.}}
{{term|[[traditional climbing]]}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Climbing in Yosemite Valley - 01.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Traditional climbing}}''']] {{ghat|Also '''trad climbing''' or simply '''trad'''.}}
A style of {{gli|lead climbing}} where {{gli|protection}} is placed as the {{gli|lead climber}} ascends; opposite of {{gli|sport climbing}}.<ref name=UKC/><ref name=SC/>}}
{{term|trail rope}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''haul line'''.}} A {{gli|big wall climbing}} technique where the {{gli|lead climber}} carries an additional static rope (in addition to their dynamic climbing rope) that hangs (or "trails") behind them as they ascend; the trail rope enables the belayer to pass equipment to the leader during the ascent, and for the leader to haul up equipment as the belayer ascends.<ref name=CL41/><ref name=BK2>{{cite book | title=Big Wall Climbing: Elite Technique | date=2005 | publisher=Mountaineers Books | edition=1st | isbn=978-0898867480 | first=Jared| last=Ogden | chapter=Chapter1: Big Wall Climbing Procedures| pages=94–140}}</ref>}}
{{term|[[Traverse (climbing)|traverse]]}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Peter Stocker in Yosemite.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Traverse|Traversing}}''']]
1. A section of a {{gli|route}} that requires progress in a horizontal direction.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/>}}
{{defn|no=2|A [[Tyrolean traverse]] is crossing a chasm using a {{gli|fixed rope}} anchored at both ends.}}
{{defn|no=3|A [[Pendulum (climbing)|pendulum traverse]] is swinging across a wall suspended from a rope anchored above the climber.<ref name=CL41/>}}
{{defn|no=4|A [[tension traverse]] is a static version of a pendulum traverse where rope tension is used to control movement.<ref name=CL41/>}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Climbing at Kalymnos Island - 23.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|Climbing on '''{{gli|tufa|tufas}}''']]
1. A [[limestone]] rib formation that protrudes from the wall which climbers can pinch-grip.
}}
{{defn|no=2|A plastic bolted-on {{gli|bouldering}} hold to replicate such a formation on an {{gli|climbing wall}}.}}
{{term|twin ropes}}
{{defn|In {{gli|lead climbing}}, using two ropes that are even thinner than {{gli|double ropes}}, both of which need to be {{gli|clip in|clipped in}} at each point of {{gli|protection}}; sometimes used in long {{gli|alpine climbing}} routes with major {{gli|abseiling}} descents.<ref name=CL50/>}}
{{term|twist lock}}
{{defn|A climbing move where the hips "twist" perpendicular to the wall, the inside arm is "locked" on an upper hold, the outside arm holds the body against the wall, and the feet press down to propel the body higher.}}
{{glossaryend}}
==U==
{{glossary}}
{{term|[[UIAA]]}}
{{defn|Acronym for the international governance body for [[mountaineering]] and other types of [[climbing]]; UIAA also regulates {{gli|competition ice climbing}}.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/> See also ''{{gli|ifsc|IFSC}}''.}}
{{term|[[Grade (climbing)#UIAA|UIAA grade]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''UIAA scale'''.}}
The {{gli|UIAA}} grade system for rock climbing, which goes: ... VI, VII, VIII, IX, X, XI, .... , to XII; is less common than the {{gli|French grade}} system or the American {{gli|yosemite decimal system|YDS grade}} system, but still used in Germany and parts of Eastern Europe.<ref name=CAI/>}}
{{term|[[Alpine climbing#Grading|UIAA Scale of Overall Difficulty]]}}
A downward {{gli|hold}} which is gripped with the palm of the hand facing upwards.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=UKC/><ref name="REI"/>}}
{{term|undercling pull}}
{{defn|After a {{gli|stein pull}} is completed, the undercling pull is a {{gli|mixed climbing}} technique for continuing to use the hold to gain upward momentum by using the hold to pull into the rock; requires a lot more energy than a stein pull.<ref name=C76/>}}
{{term|undercut}}
{{defn|See ''{{gli|undercling}}''.}}
{{glossaryend}}
==V==
{{glossary}}
{{term|[[Grade (climbing)#V-grade|V-grade]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''Hueco scale'''.}}
A {{gli|grade|grading system}} for {{gli|bouldering}} {{gli|problem|problems}} invented by [[John Sherman (climber)|John Sherman]], which goes: V0, V1, V2, V3, V4, V5, V6, V7, ... , to V17. The V-scale and the French {{gli|font}} scale are the most common boulder grading systems in use worldwide.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=CAI/>}}
{{term|[[Abalakov thread|V-thread]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''Abalakov thread'''.}}
A type of {{gli|abseiling}} point used especially in winter and in {{gli|ice climbing}}.}}
{{term|verglas}}
{{defn|A thin coating of ice that forms over rocks when rainfall or melting snow freezes, which is hard to climb on as there is insufficient depth for {{gli|crampons}} to have penetration. See also ''{{gli|clear ice}}'' and ''{{gli|glaze ice}}''.}}
{{term|[[via ferrata]]}}
{{defn|1= {{ghat|Also '''Klettersteig'''.}}
[[File:Climber on fixed rope route Piz Mitgel 2.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|Climbing a '''{{gli|via ferrata}}''']]
An alpine {{gli|route}} where {{gli|protection}} is from permanent steel {{gli|fixed ropes}} or chains, with progression aided by artificial steel steps or ladders; commonly found in the [[Dolomites]]. See also ''{{gli|lanyard}}'' and ''{{gli|energy absorber}}''.}}
A large, hollow, bolted-on {{gli|hold}}, for indoor {{gli|climbing wall}}s; it may itself contain individual holds}}
{{glossaryend}}
==W==
{{glossary}}
{{term|[[Grade (climbing)#WI-grade|WI-grade]]}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''ice climbing grades'''.}}
Part of the {{gli|ice climbing}} system for {{gli|grade|grading}} the technical difficulty of ice climbing routes, which goes: WI1, WI2, WI3, WI4, WI5, WI6, and up to WI13.<ref name=AlpinistGrades/> See also ''{{gli|M-grade}}''.}}
A hollow and flat nylon strip mainly used to make {{gli|sling|slings}}.
}}
{{term|webolette}}
{{defn|A piece of {{gli|webbing}} with eyes sewn into the ends which can be used in place of a {{gli|cordelette}}.}}
{{term|weighting}}
{{defn|Any time a rope sustains the weight of the climber, e.g. "weighting the rope". This can happen during a minor fall, a {{gli|whipper}} (long fall), or simply by resting while hanging on the {{gli|belay}} rope. See also ''{{gli|hangdog|hangdogging}}''.}}
{{term|whipper}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Rock Climbing in Iran.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|Climber on a '''{{gli|whipper}}''']]
A large fall by a {{gli|lead climber}} as they were well beyond the last piece of {{gli|protection}}. See ''{{gli|screamer}}''.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/videos/the-sick-6-weekend-whippers-with-big-scary-falls-hey-no-one-said-the-weekend-was-over/ | title=Enjoy These Sick 6 Weekend Whippers On a Monday, Just Because | date=2019 | accessdate=24 December 2022}}</ref>}}
{{term|wire brushing}}
{{defn|{{gli|clean|Cleaning}} a rock climbing route with a wire brush before an attempt; has ethical issues due to rock damage and possible {{gli|chipping}}.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|wired}}
{{defn|See ''{{gli|dialled}}''.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|wires}}
{{defn|See ''{{gli|nut|nuts}}''.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{glossaryend}}
==X==
{{glossary}}
{{term|X}}
{{defn|A suffix used in the {{gli|Yosemite decimal system}} for highlighting {{gli|traditional climbing}} routes that have poor or even no possibilities for {{gli|protection}}, where any fall could be fatal (e.g. ''[[Indian Face]]'' and ''[[Gaia (climb)|Gaia]]''). See ''{{gli|r/x|R/X}}'' and ''{{gli|chop route}}''.}}
{{glossaryend}}
==Y==
{{glossary}}
{{term|yaniro}}
{{defn|French term for a {{gli|figure-four}} move which came from American climber [[Tony Yaniro]]'s use of it on ''Chouca'' {{climbing grade|8a+}}.<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | title=Eline & Marc Le Menestrel: Chouca and Buoux, yesterday, today and tomorrow | date=31 March 2020 | accessdate=1 May 2023 | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/eline-marc-le-menestrel-chouca-buoux-yesterday-today-tomorrow.html}}</ref>}}
{{term|yo-yo}}
{{defn|A {{gli|free climbing}} term pre-{{gli|redpoint}}ing, where a falling {{gli|lead climber}} returns to the ground to restart, but leaves their rope clipped into the {{gli|protection}} — in redpointing, the rope is pulled free from all protection before re-starting the climb.<ref name=UKC/>
{{defn|American system for {{gli|grade|grading}} walks, hikes, and climbs; the rock climbing (5.x) goes: 5.7, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10c, 5.10d, 5.11a, .... , 5.14a, 5.14b, 5.14c, 5.14d, 5.15a, etc., and with the {{gli|French grade}} system, is the most widely used grading system worldwide for {{gli|sport climbing}}.<ref name=CAI/>}}
{{glossaryend}}
==Z==
{{glossary}}
{{term|z-clipping}}
{{defn|While {{gli|lead climbing}}, {{gli|clipping in|clipping into}} {{gli|protection}} with a segment of rope from ''beneath'' the previous piece of protection, resulting in {{gli|rope drag}}.<ref name=ClimbingDictionary/><ref name=Gripped-lead-mistakes/>}}
A system of rope, anchors, and {{gli|pulley}}s; is typically used to extricate a climber after falling into a {{gli|crevasse}}.}}
{{term|zawn}}
{{defn|1=[[File:Zawn at Trwynbychan - geograph.org.uk - 4181311.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|A '''{{gli|zawn}}''' in Wales]]
In Britain, a deep, narrow inlet in a sea cliff that is filled by the sea at high tide.<ref name=UKC/>}}
{{term|zipper fall}}
{{defn|1={{ghat|Also '''gear rip-out'''.}}
A {{gli|traditional climbing}} {{gli|ground fall}} where all the {{gli|protection}} gear fails in sequence (i.e. opens like a "zip").<ref name=UKC/><ref>{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/videos/weekend-whipper-gear-ripping-trad-climbing-fall/#_pay-wall | title=Weekend Whipper: First-time Traditional Climbing Leader Rips-Out 3 (out of 4) Pieces | date=2 April 2022 | accessdate=1 March 2023}}</ref>}}
{{term|[[zone hold]]}}
{{defn|1=[[File:2022-08-12 European Championships 2022 – Sport Climbing Women's Boulder by Sandro Halank–075.jpg|thumb|upright=0.7|'''{{gli|Zone hold}}''']]
In [[competition bouldering]], a hold roughly halfway up that counts towards scoring; formerly (up to 2017) "bonus hold".}}
{{glossaryend}}
==See also==
*[[Climbing equipment]]
*[[Glossary of caving and speleology]]
*[[Glossary of caving and speleology]]
*[[List of climbers and mountaineers]]
*''[[Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills]]''
*''[[Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills]]''
{{clear}}
==References==
==References==
{{Reflist}}
<references />
== External links ==
==External links==
=== Some climbing glossaries ===
*[https://www.climbing.com/news/rock-climbing-terms-definitions/ What’s A Redpoint And What Do Other Climbing Terms Mean? Our Climbing Dictionary Has The Answers], ''[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]]'' (May 2022)
*[http://bayareaclimbers.com/glossary.html Bay Area Climbers (US)]
*[https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/a_glossary_of_climbing_terms_from_abseil_to_zawn-33 UK Climbing (UK) Glossary of Terms from Abseil to Zawn], ''UK Climbing Magazine'' (May 2006)
*[http://climb.mountainzone.com/glossary_a_l.html Mountainzone glossary A-L] and [http://climb.mountainzone.com/glossary_m_z.html M-Z]
*[https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/rock-climbing-glossary.html Rock Climbing Glossary], [[REI|REI Co-Op]] (April 2023)
*[http://www.justclimb.com/Climbing-Glossary-01.html Just Climb (US)]
The terms used can vary between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases described here are particular to the United States and the United Kingdom.
The technical difficulty grading system for aid climbing (both for "original" and an adapted version for "new wave"), which goes: A0, A1, A2, A3, A4, A5 and up to A6 (for "new wave"). See C-grade.[4]
A technique by which a climber descends via a fixed rope that is firmly attached to a fixed anchor point, which is also known as an "abseil station". See tat and cord.
Type of protection that dynamically changes to absorb the shape and strength of a fall; active protection is the opposite of passive protection. See cams and friends.
Part of the alpine climbing system for grading the technical difficulty of alpine climbing routes, which goes: F ("facile/easy"), PD ("peu difficile/little difficult"), AD ("assez difficile/fairly hard"), D ("difficile/difficult"), TD ("très difficile/very hard"), and ED ("extrêmement difficile/extremely difficult"); ED then goes ED1, ED2, ED3, .. etc.[4][6]
alpine knee
An awkward climbing technique where the knee is placed on the hold rather than the foot.[7]
alpine start
Starting a climb very early in the morning, generally before 5:00a.m. (and even much earlier); common to alpine climbing to avoid afternoon rockfalls and melting snow on the route, or to get firmer ice on the glacier travel to and from the route.[2]
An armchair landing
A technique in deep-water soloing for entering shallower water where the climber needs to avoid deeper hazards in the water; executed properly a 30-foot (9.1 m) fall can be absorbed in just 5 feet (1.5 m) of water.[8]
A hazardous mistake of clipping the rope into a quickdraw so the leader's end runs underneath the quickdraw as opposed to over the top of it; if the leader falls, the rope may fold directly over the gate, causing it to open and fail.[1][10]
back-step
A back-step
Stepping on a hold where the outside edge — little toe side — of the shoe touches the rock.[1][11][12]
bail
To retreat from a climb.
ball nut
A type of protection device consisting of a nut and a movable ball used for very small thin cracks.[13]
barn-door
A potential barn door swing to the right
When all four points of contact are on a straight axis, the body can swing uncontrollably on this axis. See flagging.[2]
Glasses that are worn by the belayer to help them avoid having to look upward, which can cause neck strain.[14]
belay gloves
Belay glove
Gloves that are worn by the belayer to protect their skin in the event of sudden rope movement and to aid grip.[14]
belay loop
The strongest point on a climbing harness, and the loop to which a belay device is physically attached.[1][2]
belay off
A climbing command from a belayer to confirm that the friction of belaying has been removed from a climbing rope. It is a standard response to a climber's "off belay" request.[15]
belay on
A climbing command from a belayer to confirm that the friction of belaying has been (re)applied to a climbing rope. It is a standard response to a climber's "on belay" request.[15]
Information on how to complete (or protect) a particular climbing route. See on-sight and flash.[1][2][3]
beta break
In sport climbing, a move on a climbing route other than the move originally intended by the route setter. In bouldering, a move other than the move usually used on the boulder.
A rock-climbing technique for overhangs where the feet "pinch-hold" a foothold by one foot pushing down on it while the other foot pulls up on it (i.e. like the pedals on a bicycle).[17]
Big wall climbing
A long sustained sheer exposed rock climb with at least 6–10 pitches (over 300–500 metres), that typically takes over a day (if not many days), and requires the hauling of food, water, sleeping bags, and the use of portaledges.[1]
Where the belayer uses their body, and not a mechanical belay device, to increase braking force when belaying; usually involves wrapping the rope around their waist or hip.[19]
boinking
A sport climbing technique to get back onto the wall after falling by pulling on the rope to un-weight it, allowing the belayer to take in the slack quickly; avoids the fallen climber having to return to the ground.[20]
bollard
Snow bollard
A large block of rock or ice that is used as an anchor to construct a belay.
The deliberate removal of bolts from a climb; happens on traditional climbing routes (e.g. the Indian Face); also featured in the "bolt wars" of the 1980s and 1990s in the US.[3]
bolt ladder
Sequence of bolts that are so close together, they can be used by aid climbers as a ladder.[2]
The technical difficulty grading system for aid climbing that is "clean" (i.e. no hammeredpitons or bolts), which goes: C0, C1, C2, C3, C4, and C5; also has an A-grade equivalent of the "original" aid grades for "new wave".[4]
An Australian term for a metal hex-headed machine bolt that functions like a bolt but with no fixed bolt hanger; climbers attach to the carrot bolt by using a version of a rivet hanger or by attaching a removable bolt hanger plate.[24]
Type of harness that also covers the upper body to help prevent a rotation in any fall; particularly used when the climber is carrying a heavy pack, or is climbing in an area with crevasses.
chest jam
Jamming the torso into a wide crack, especially to allow the climber to rest.
A broad movement that extended from the earlier free climbing movement, which advocated minimizing any form of climbing that permanently impacted the natural rock surface, such as the use of bolts or pitons in sport climbing.
A type of ice climbing held on climbing walls for mostly professional ice climbers, split into the disciplines of ice lead climbing (on a bolted sport climbing dry-wall route), and ice speed climbing on an iced route. See also UIAA.
A small nut on a loop of wire with a head made of metal (often copper), soft enough to deform during placement, which is often with a hammer; commonly used in aid climbing as a point of placement, remaining fixed in-situ after placement.
Dead hanging
When a climber hangs limp, such that their weight is held by arm ligament tension rather than by muscles.
deadman anchor
Also snow anchor and T-slot
An object which lies horizontally, buried in the snow, serving as an anchor for an attached fixed rope.[33]
deadpoint
A controlled dynamic motion in which the hold is grabbed with one hand at the apex of upward motion of the body, while one or both feet and the other hand maintain contact with the rock.[34] See dynos.
deck
The ground below a climbing route (i.e they fell to the ground and "hit the deck"). See ground fall.[2]
A drug used to inhibit the onset of altitude sickness; otherwise known as acetazolamide.[35]
dihedral
Dihedral
An open book-shaped corner formed at the intersection of two flat rock faces; the opposite of an arête.[1][2]
direttissima
Italian for "shortest link", is the most direct route to the summit of a mountain up the fall line (e.g. the Brandler-Hasse Direttissima on the Cima Grande, Dolomites); origin of the term is often attributed to Emilio Comici who said: "I wish some day to make a route, and from the summit let fall a drop of water, and this is where my route will have gone".[36]
direct start
A new variation of an existing rock climbing route that avoids detours taken before the main line is reached due to their greater difficulty (e.g. Suprême Jumbo Love as a direct start to Jumbo Love).
dirtbag
A climber who lives modestly and often itinerantly, to maximize the amount of time climbing. Practitioners included Jan and Herb Conn and Fred Beckey (from the film: Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey).[37]
A type of anchor used in soft rock instead of bolts that uses a "baby angle" (piton) hammered into a drilled hole, which some think is better in soft rock than bolts that can crack the rock.[41][42]
drive-by
A deadpoint where one arm crosses over the other to reach a hold that is above and to the side.
drop knee
Also egyptian.
Also knee drop.
Also lolotte.
An advanced rock-climbing technique where the knee is dropped downwards to twist the hips—and the centre of gravity—closer to the rock face, thus increasing the amount of upward reach and torque available to the climber; the unique stresses on the knee can lead to serious injuries.[1][11]
An elastic climbing rope that softens falls to some extent and absorbs the energy of heavy loads. Compare static rope.[29]
dyno
In rock climbing, a dynamic jump or leap to grab an out-of-reach hold; failure to grab the hold will usually result in a fall. See also paddling and campusing.[1][2][43]
Part of the British adjectival grading system that is used to rank the level of risk (a separate grade is given for technical difficulty) of traditional climbing routes, and which goes E1, E2, E3, ... to E11 (an additional metric is used for technical difficulty).[4]
edging
Using the edge of a climbing shoe on a narrow foothold; in the absence of footholds, smearing is used.
A mountain whose elevation exceeds 8,000 meters (26,247 ft) a.s.l, of which there are only 14 in the world.
eliminate
1. A bouldering move, or series of moves, where certain holds are placed "off bounds".[2]
2. A British climbing term for a route that does not take the most obvious or direct line, and instead 'eliminates' the use of other features to create its line (e.g. not allowing the climber to use a nearby crack in making their ascent).[2]
Using teams of support people (e.g. support climbers, sherpas, and/or equipment porters, etc.), and equipment (e.g. fixed rope, base camps, etc.) in helping the lead climbers reach the eventual summit; opposite of alpine style.
Also figure of four and figure-four move and yaniro
An advanced climbing technique in which the climber hooks a leg over the opposite arm (which needs to be in a good handhold), and then pushes down with this leg to achieve a greater vertical reach; more common in mixed climbing.[2]
figure-nine
Also figure of nine and figure-nine move
A variation of the figure-four move where the "same-side" leg is used instead of the "opposite" leg.[2]
A rock-climbing technique where a leg is held in a position to maintain balance, rather than to support weight, often to prevent a barn-door.[2] There are three types of flagging:[12][11]
normal flag
Flagging foot stays on the same side (e.g. flagging right foot to the right side of the body).[12][11]
reverse inside-flag
Flagging foot is crossed in front of the foot that is on a foothold.[12][11]
reverse outside-flag
Flagging foot is crossed behind the foot that is on a foothold.[12][11]
flake
A thin slab of rock detached from the main face offering a hold, although it may become detached.[2]
flash
To ascend a route on the first attempt, but having obtained beta; with no beta, it is an on-sight.[1][2][45][3]
The French grade system for bouldering, which goes: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6A, 6B, 6C, 7A, 7B, 7C, .... , to 9A; with the American V-grade system, is the most common worldwide boulder-grading system. Font grades are often confused with French grades.[6]
foot jam
Also heel-to-toe jam.
A technique of jamming the foot into a large crack by twisting so that the heel and toes touch the sides.
flapper
The tearing of skin and flesh due to friction with sharp or rough surfaces.
The use of very basic aid climbing techniques (i.e. A0-graded aid techniques such as pulling on climbing protection) to bypass a short section that is not easily climbable, particularly used in big wall climbing.[46]
The French grade system for sport climbing, which goes: 5a, 5b, 5c, 6a, 6b, 6c, 7a, 7b, 7c, .... , to 9c; with the American YDS system, is the most common sport climbing grading system. French grades are often confused with font grades.[6]
French start
Moving off for the second hold without being established on the start holds, thus using the floor as a foothold. In most competition climbing, including IFSC events, starting a climb in this manner invalidates the attempt.[47]
frenchies
An exercise used to develop lock-off strength consisting of pull-ups that stop with the elbows locked at angles between 20 and 160 degrees.
friable
Delicate and easily broken rock, or ice, often dangerously so.
Mountaineering clothing equipment that is worn over the boots and lower leg to give added protection and waterproofing.
Gaston
A climbing grip using one hand with the thumb down and elbow out, like a reverse side pull. The grip maintains friction against a hold by pressing outward toward the elbow. Named for Gaston Rébuffat.[1][2][11]
gate flutter
The unwelcome action of the gate on a carabiner opening during a fall.
A sewn nylon webbing load-bearing device that is worn around the climber's waist and thighs, and to which the climbing rope, and other load-bearing climbing devices, can be attached.[2]
A round hold consisting of a pocket in the rock with a positive lip, varying in size from a single finger (a "mono") to body-sized. The term comes from Hueco Tanks that is notable for huecos, the Spanish term for a "hole".
An artificial pad that is worn on the lower thigh to protect a climber when performing a knee bar; initially controversial as they raised technical standards, but came to be accepted like climbing shoes.[56][57]
Lightweight rigid aluminum ladders are used in expedition style mountaineering to cross crevasses or on difficult sections as a form of aid climbing support (this can also be done with flexible bachar ladders). See also aider.
A technique used to climb off-width cracks pioneered in the late 1970s by Randy Leavitt and Tony Yaniro that uses alternating hand-fist stacks and leg-calf locks; helpful for resting, and when placing protection.[58]
Resting lock off
A climber holding a fixed position with one bent arm, usually while clipping or reaching for another hold with their other arm, or resting. Contrast with dead hang.[1]
In competition bouldering, a marked hold somewhere between the start and zone. It is either worth some number of points (less than the zone) or used as a tiebreaker.
Part of the mixed climbing system for grading the technical difficulty of mixed climbing routes, which goes: M1, M2, M3, M4, M5, M6, and up to M14.[4] See also D-grade.
mantel move
Mantel move
Moving onto a shelf of rock by pressing down on it with the palms until the climber can stand on the "mantel" (i.e. the same action as leaving from the side of a pool).[1][2][12][11]
A route that was bolted by someone (e.g. they bought and installed the bolts) but who was unsuccessful in redpointing it, and it is now considered to be "open" to any climber to try; sometimes the original bolter will leave colored tape on the first bolt(s) to note the route is "not open".[60]
A multi-move dyno where the climber must move quickly through a sequence of intermediate hand holds (neither of which can hold the climber for any period), with their arms mimicking a paddling action and their feet usually in mid-air, before getting to a secure position. See also campusing.[43]
To systematically attain every peak of a designated class of summits (e.g. eight-thousanders), sometimes under prescribed conditions (e.g. in winter), and/or in a prescribed climbing style (e.g. no supplementary oxygen.)
A quickdraw but made from a steel cable with steel carabiners that is permanently fixed to the bolt; longer wearing than aluminum quickdraws, and climbers do not need to retrieve them after a climb.[1]
Portaledge
A lightweight foldaway tent platform used in big wall climbing to create a rest point on a sheer rock face.
positive
A hold or part of a hold with a surface facing upwards, or away from the direction it is pulled, facilitating use. A positive hold is the opposite of a sloper.
pressure breathing
Also Whittaker wheeze.
Forcefully exhaling to facilitate O2/CO2 exchange at altitude.
problem
Also bouldering problem or boulder problem.
Used in bouldering to describe the sequence of moves to be overcome.[2]
A mechanical climbing device that allows the rope to move through it in only one direction, examples being the Petzl Micro Traxion or the Camp Lift; PCDs are used in many climbing tasks including gear hauling, belaying, top rope solo climbing and in simul-climbing.[62][63] See also Self-locking device.
project
Also projecting.
An attempt over time to climb a new (worldwide or personal) route or boulder problem as a "project".
2. A type of heavy-duty "all-weather" descender known as an "abseil rack" or a "rappel rack", consisting of metal bars on a U-shaped chassis, which is frequently used in caving. An alternative heavier device is a "whaletail" (also "whale tail") which is a machined block often used by rescuers.[64]
Secondary or intermediate fixed anchor point(s) along the length of a fixed rope (i.e. in addition to the main anchor at the top of the fixed rope) that is used to avoid edges that could increase rope wear.[65]
An energy-saving mountaineering technique where the unweighted (uphill) leg is rested between each forward step, by "locking" the knee of the rear leg.
retro-bolting
The addition of bolts to a route that has already been ascended using traditional climbingprotection. The technique is controversial, with ethical debate on the issues of improving climber safety versus protecting the integrity of the original traditional climbing challenge.[66][67]
A light metal plate with several holes that can be used as a multi-anchor device that several items can be attached to at a belay station, notable versions include the Petzl PAW.
ripped
Term to denote when a piece of protection failed and "ripped-out" of the rock. See zipper fall.[2]
A move in which the crossing arm goes behind the other arm and is so far extended that the body is forced to twist until it ends up facing away from the rock. It was introduced by Antoine Le Menestrel [fr] to climb a route in Buoux called La rose et le vampire8b (5.13d) in 1985.[69]
RURP
A miniature, postage stamp-sized chrome-moly square piton, tied to a wire or rope and hammered into cracks; created by Yvon Chouinard in 1960 for extreme aid climbing routes in Yosemite; acronym for realized ultimate reality piton.[70]
A rock climb with a much lower official climbing grade than probably deserved; sometimes due to a "trick-move" at the crux that once learned, does make the route easier; or due to overly conservative grading.[2]
A type of climbing somewhere between hiking and graded rock climbing; involves climbing the easiest grades.
screamer
1. Shock absorbing sling designed to reduce peak loads in a climbing system. Very commonly used for winter / ice climbing. Made of a nylon webbing structure consisting of one large loop sewn in multiple places to make a shorter length.
The use of a single rope where one or both ends of the rope are attached to fixed anchor points. See fixed rope.
sit start
Also sit down start or SDS
A sit startBouldering term for a route that must be started from a seated position on the ground with hands and feet on prescribed holds; acronyms are SS (sit-start), SDS (sit-down-start), or assis (french); concept invented by John Yablonski.[73]
A technique in mixed climbing and dry-tooling where the ice axe is inverted and the blade wedged into a crack above the climber's head, who then pulls down on the handle of the axe to gain upward momentum. See also undercling pull.[75]
stemming
Stemming
Technique for climbing opposing corners by pushing in opposite directions with the feet and hands. See chimneying.[1][2][12][11]
step cutting
Scooping steps out of snow or ice with the adze of an ice axe.
step kicking
Scooping and stamping steps out of soft snow with the feet.
Term to describe pieces of webbing or cord left on a climb (e.g. "I found some old tat") often as part of an irretrievable anchor point that was part of an abseil station.[77]
Talus rocks
An area of large rock fragments on a mountainside where the rocks are stable and not loose like scree.
talon hook
A type of three-pronged climbing hook used for securing the climber to a horizontal edge in the rock face. Each prong contains a curved hook of differing widths for securing onto respective edge sizes when aid climbing.
A big wall climbing technique where the lead climber carries an additional static rope (in addition to their dynamic climbing rope) that hangs (or "trails") behind them as they ascend; the trail rope enables the belayer to pass equipment to the leader during the ascent, and for the leader to haul up equipment as the belayer ascends.[22][61]
A climbing move where the hips "twist" perpendicular to the wall, the inside arm is "locked" on an upper hold, the outside arm holds the body against the wall, and the feet press down to propel the body higher.
The UIAA grade system for rock climbing, which goes: ... VI, VII, VIII, IX, X, XI, .... , to XII; is less common than the French grade system or the American YDS grade system, but still used in Germany and parts of Eastern Europe.[6]
A downward hold which is gripped with the palm of the hand facing upwards.[1][2][11]
undercling pull
After a stein pull is completed, the undercling pull is a mixed climbing technique for continuing to use the hold to gain upward momentum by using the hold to pull into the rock; requires a lot more energy than a stein pull.[75]
A grading system for boulderingproblems invented by John Sherman, which goes: V0, V1, V2, V3, V4, V5, V6, V7, ... , to V17. The V-scale and the French font scale are the most common boulder grading systems in use worldwide.[1][6]
A thin coating of ice that forms over rocks when rainfall or melting snow freezes, which is hard to climb on as there is insufficient depth for crampons to have penetration. See also clear ice and glaze ice.
Part of the ice climbing system for grading the technical difficulty of ice climbing routes, which goes: WI1, WI2, WI3, WI4, WI5, WI6, and up to WI13.[4] See also M-grade.
Round webbing
A hollow and flat nylon strip mainly used to make slings.
webolette
A piece of webbing with eyes sewn into the ends which can be used in place of a cordelette.
weighting
Any time a rope sustains the weight of the climber, e.g. "weighting the rope". This can happen during a minor fall, a whipper (long fall), or simply by resting while hanging on the belay rope. See also hangdogging.
French term for a figure-four move which came from American climber Tony Yaniro's use of it on Chouca8a+ (5.13c).[79]
yo-yo
A free climbing term pre-redpointing, where a falling lead climber returns to the ground to restart, but leaves their rope clipped into the protection — in redpointing, the rope is pulled free from all protection before re-starting the climb.[2]
American system for grading walks, hikes, and climbs; the rock climbing (5.x) goes: 5.7, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10c, 5.10d, 5.11a, .... , 5.14a, 5.14b, 5.14c, 5.14d, 5.15a, etc., and with the French grade system, is the most widely used grading system worldwide for sport climbing.[6]
^IFSC 2021 Rules Commission. "2021 Rules"(PDF). Archived from the original on May 8, 2021. Retrieved 2021-12-04.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link)
^Soanes, Catherine and Stevenson, Angus (ed.) (2005). Oxford Dictionary of English, 2nd Ed., revised, Oxford University Press, Oxford, New York, p. 1775. ISBN978-0-19-861057-1.
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