Polo neck: Difference between revisions
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{{short description|Garment with a close-fitting collar that folds over and covers the neck}} |
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{{distinguish|polo shirt}} |
{{distinguish|polo shirt}} |
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{{refimprove|date=July 2010}} |
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| ⚫ | A '''polo neck''', ''' roll-neck''' |
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The term ''polo neck'', common in British English, is thought to derive from garments with similar necklines worn by [[polo (sport)|polo players]].<ref name="Ayto2002">{{cite book |author=John Ayto |title=20th century words |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=p0h5AAAAIAAJ |accessdate=17 August 2012|year=2002 |publisher=外语教学与研究出版社|isbn=978-7-5600-2874-3}}</ref> |
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| ⚫ | A '''polo neck''', ''' roll-neck'''<ref>{{cite web|last=Chilvers |first=Simon |url=https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/fashion-blog/2011/aug/23/man-trend-polo-neck |title=Man-trend: Roll-necks | Fashion | guardian.co.uk |publisher=Guardian |date=2011-08-23 |access-date=2013-03-14}}</ref> ([[South Africa]]), '''turtleneck''' ([[United States]], [[Canada]]), or '''skivvy''' is a garment—usually a [[sweater]]—with a close-fitting collar that folds over and covers the neck. It can also refer to the type of neckline, the style of collar itself, or be used as an adjective ("polo necked"). |
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A simpler variant of the standard polo neck is the mock polo neck (or mock turtleneck), that resembles the polo neck with the soft fold at its top and the way it stands up around the neck, but both ends of the tube forming the collar are sewn to the neckline. This is mainly used to achieve the appearance of a polo neck where the fabric would fray, roll, or otherwise behave badly unless sewn. The mock polo neck clings to the neck smoothly, is easy to manufacture, and works well with a zip closure. |
A simpler variant of the standard polo neck is the mock polo neck (or mock turtleneck), that resembles the polo neck with the soft fold at its top and the way it stands up around the neck, but both ends of the tube forming the collar are sewn to the neckline. This is mainly used to achieve the appearance of a polo neck where the fabric would fray, roll, or otherwise behave badly unless sewn. The mock polo neck clings to the neck smoothly, is easy to manufacture, and works well with a zip closure. |
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===Europe=== |
===Europe=== |
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Turtle neck–like garments have been worn for hundreds of years, dating at least to the 15th century. They were originally designed to protect the necks of knights wearing chainmail. Royalty adopted high-neck fashion, with the height and volume of the neck ruffle indicating status.<ref>{{Cite web |url=https://startupfashion.com/fashion-archives-a-look-at-the-history-of-the-turtleneck/ |title=Fashion Archives: A Look at the History of the Turtleneck |last=Bucci |first=Jessica |department=Fashion Fabric Sourcing |date=2017-01-10 |publisher=StartUp Fashion |language=en-US |access-date=2020-04-02}}</ref> |
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Polo neck-like garments have been worn for hundreds of years, dating at least to the 15th century.{{Citation needed|date=September 2014}} |
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From the late 19th century on |
From the late 19th century on polo necks were commonly worn by fishermen, manual workers, athletes, sailors and naval officers.<ref>{{Cite web |url=https://www.thegoodtrade.com/features/history-of-turtlenecks |title=The Radical History & Psychology of Turtlenecks |website=The Good Trade |date=26 November 2018 |language=en-US |access-date=2020-04-02}}</ref> Since the middle of that century, [[black]] polo necks have been closely associated with leftist radical [[Academic staff|academics]], [[philosopher]]s, [[artist]]s and [[intellectual]]s.<ref>Mary Ann Frese Witt, ''The Humanities and the Modern World'', 2000, {{isbn|9780669154269}}, {{OCLC|254520256}}, pp. 463–464.</ref><ref>Deirdre Bair, ''Simone de Beauvoir: A Biography'', 1990, p. 360.</ref> The polo neck jumper became an iconic symbol of the French philosopher [[Michel Foucault]].<ref>{{cite book |title=Michel Foucault |last=Eribon |first=Didier |author-link=Didier Eribon |translator=Betsy Wing |year=1992 |orig-year=1989 |publisher=Harvard University Press |location=Cambridge, Mass. |isbn=978-0-571-14474-7 |page=311}}</ref> Polo necks also became a big fashion for wealthy young men after they were worn by European film stars [[Marcello Mastroianni]] and [[Yves Montand]].<ref>Guido Vergani, ''Dizionario della moda'', 2009, p. 348 {{In lang|it}}.</ref> |
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[[Greta Garbo]] often wore polo necks and trousers privately, as later [[Audrey Hepburn]] would do in official photographs. |
[[Greta Garbo]] often wore polo necks and trousers privately, as later [[Audrey Hepburn]] would do in official photographs. |
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[[Vladimir Putin]]<ref>Zbigniew Brzezinski, Putin's |
[[Vladimir Putin]]<ref>Zbigniew Brzezinski, ''Putin's Choice'', 2008.</ref> of [[Russia]], [[Andreas Papandreou]]<ref>Theodore C. Kariotis, ''The Greek Socialist Experiment: Papandreou's Greece 1981–1989'', 1992</ref> of [[Greece]], and [[Emmanuel Macron]]<ref>{{Cite web |url=https://www.vanityfair.com/style/2019/12/emmanuel-macron-turtleneck |title=What's Emmanuel Macron's Turtleneck Trying to Say?|website=[[Vanity Fair (magazine)|Vanity Fair]]|date=10 December 2019 }}</ref> of [[France]] are examples of European leaders who are fond of wearing polo necks. |
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===United States=== |
===United States=== |
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At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries the high neckline blouse became a fashionable option for young women as part of the emergence of the [[Gibson Girl]].<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.thegoodtrade.com/features/history-of-turtlenecks|title=The Radical History & Psychology Of Turtlenecks|website=The Good Trade|date=26 November 2018 |language=en-US|access-date=2020-04-02}}</ref> |
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Their adoption by [[Noël Coward]] in the 1920s turned polo necks into a brief middle-class fashion trend, and [[feminism|feminists]] made them into a unisex item. Absorbed into mainstream American fashion by the mid 20th century, the polo neck came to be viewed as an anti-[[necktie|tie]], a smart form of dress for those who rejected [[formal wear]]. Senator [[Ted Kennedy]], pianist/conductor [[Vladimir Ashkenazy]], conductor [[Seiji Ozawa]], philosopher [[Michel Foucault]], singer [[Barry Manilow]], scientist [[Carl Sagan]], [[Oracle Corporation]] co-founder [[Larry Ellison]], and [[Apple Inc.]] co-founder [[Steve Jobs]] were among those often seen in polo necks. |
Their adoption by [[Noël Coward]] in the 1920s turned polo necks into a brief middle-class fashion trend, and [[feminism|feminists]] made them into a unisex item. Absorbed into mainstream American fashion by the mid 20th century, the polo neck came to be viewed as an anti-[[necktie|tie]], a smart form of dress for those who rejected [[formal wear]]. Senator [[Ted Kennedy]], pianist/conductor [[Vladimir Ashkenazy]], conductor [[Seiji Ozawa]], philosopher [[Michel Foucault]], shipping tycoon [[Stavros Niarchos]], singer [[Barry Manilow]], scientist [[Carl Sagan]], [[Oracle Corporation]] co-founder [[Larry Ellison]], [[Theranos]] founder [[Elizabeth Holmes]], and [[Apple Inc.]] co-founder [[Steve Jobs]] were among those often seen in polo necks.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.cnn.com/style/article/black-turtleneck-genius-artsy/index.html|title=How the black turtleneck came to represent creative genius|last=Warde-Aldam|first=Digby|website=CNN|date=15 October 2019 |language=en|access-date=2020-04-02}}</ref> |
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Over time it became a fad among teenage girls, especially in a lightweight form that emphasised their figures. It was not long before [[Hollywood]] was also exploiting this image as part of the [[sweater girl]] look. |
Over time it became a fad among teenage girls, especially in a lightweight form that emphasised their figures. It was not long before [[Cinema of the United States|Hollywood]] was also exploiting this image as part of the [[sweater girl]] look. |
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By the late 1950s the "tight turtleneck" had been adopted as part of the [[preppy]] style among students, a style emphasising neatness, tidiness and grooming. This would become an important aspect of the polo neck's image in the [[United States]] |
By the late 1950s the "tight turtleneck" had been adopted as part of the [[preppy]] style among students, a style emphasising neatness, tidiness and grooming. This would become an important aspect of the polo neck's image in the [[United States]]. |
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Turtlenecks were also famous in hippies in [[1960s]] and [[1970s]]. |
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| ⚫ | Very elegant polo necks of |
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| ⚫ | Very elegant polo necks of silk or nylon knit, especially made with French cuffs for formal dress affairs, have also seen success in American fashion.<ref>{{cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=CpxCUi_udBgC&pg=PA219 |title=American Costume, 1915-1970: A Source Book for the Stage Costumer |date=1989-08-22 |isbn=0253113733 |access-date=2013-03-14|last1=O'Donnol |first1=Shirley Miles |publisher=Indiana University Press }}</ref> |
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==As an alternative to the necktie== |
==As an alternative to the necktie== |
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[[File:Steve Jobs and Bill Gates (522695099).jpg|thumb|Steve Jobs (left) wearing his signature mock polo neck by [[Issey Miyake]]<ref>{{cite news |url=http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/technology/2011/10/steve-jobs-explains-black-turtleneck-in-biography.html |title=Steve Jobs' black turtleneck reportedly explained in biography |first=Nathan |last=Olivarez-Giles |work=[[Los Angeles Times]] |agency=Technology (blog) |date=October 11, 2011 | |
[[File:Steve Jobs and Bill Gates (522695099).jpg|thumb|Steve Jobs (left) wearing his signature mock polo neck by [[Issey Miyake]]<ref>{{cite news |url=http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/technology/2011/10/steve-jobs-explains-black-turtleneck-in-biography.html |title=Steve Jobs' black turtleneck reportedly explained in biography |first=Nathan |last=Olivarez-Giles |work=[[Los Angeles Times]] |agency=Technology (blog) |date=October 11, 2011 |access-date=June 7, 2014}}</ref>]] |
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Polo necks have |
Polo necks have been used as substitutes for a shirt-and-[[necktie|tie]] since the 1920s.<ref name=fads>{{cite book |title=Fashion & Merchandising Fads |first=Frank W. |last=Hoffmann |author2=William G. Bailey |series=Haworth Popular Culture |location=Binghamton, N.Y. |publisher=The Haworth Press |pages=[https://archive.org/details/fashionmerchandi00hoff/page/267 267–268] |year=1994 |isbn=9781560243762 |oclc=27225478 |url-access=registration |url=https://archive.org/details/fashionmerchandi00hoff/page/267 }}</ref> This was sometimes frowned upon in upscale [[restaurant]]s and at weddings. |
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[[John Berendt]] wrote in ''[[Esquire (magazine)|Esquire]]''<ref name=fads/> |
[[John Berendt]] wrote in ''[[Esquire (magazine)|Esquire]]''<ref name=fads/> |
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{{quote|the turtleneck was the boldest of all the affronts to the |
{{quote|the turtleneck was the boldest of all the affronts to the status quo. It was the picture of masculine poise and arrogance, redolent of athletes, sportsmen, even U-boat commanders. The simplicity of its design made neckties seem fussy and superfluous by comparison}} |
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The designer [[Halston]] said<ref name=fads/> |
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{{quote|turtlenecks are the most comfortable garment you can wear. They move with the body, and they're flattering too, because they accentuate the face and elongate the figure. They make life so easy: you can wear a turtleneck to work and then afterwards throw on a jacket, and it becomes very dressy. You can go anywhere you like.}} |
{{quote|turtlenecks are the most comfortable garment you can wear. They move with the body, and they're flattering too, because they accentuate the face and elongate the figure. They make life so easy: you can wear a turtleneck to work and then afterwards throw on a jacket, and it becomes very dressy. You can go anywhere you like.}} |
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* [[Beatnik]] |
* [[Beatnik]] |
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* [[Lacoste]] |
* [[Lacoste]] |
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* [[Polo shirt]] |
* [[Polo shirt]] |
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* [[Collar (clothing)]] |
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==References== |
==References== |
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[[Category:Necklines]] |
[[Category:Necklines]] |
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[[Category:Sweaters]] |
[[Category:Sweaters]] |
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[[Category: |
[[Category:1960s fashion]] |
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[[Category:1970s fashion]] |
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[[Category:1990s fashion]] |
[[Category:1990s fashion]] |
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[[Category:Polo]] |
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Latest revision as of 16:40, 28 December 2024
A polo neck, roll-neck[1] (South Africa), turtleneck (United States, Canada), or skivvy is a garment—usually a sweater—with a close-fitting collar that folds over and covers the neck. It can also refer to the type of neckline, the style of collar itself, or be used as an adjective ("polo necked").
A simpler variant of the standard polo neck is the mock polo neck (or mock turtleneck), that resembles the polo neck with the soft fold at its top and the way it stands up around the neck, but both ends of the tube forming the collar are sewn to the neckline. This is mainly used to achieve the appearance of a polo neck where the fabric would fray, roll, or otherwise behave badly unless sewn. The mock polo neck clings to the neck smoothly, is easy to manufacture, and works well with a zip closure.
History
[edit]
Europe
[edit]Turtle neck–like garments have been worn for hundreds of years, dating at least to the 15th century. They were originally designed to protect the necks of knights wearing chainmail. Royalty adopted high-neck fashion, with the height and volume of the neck ruffle indicating status.[2]
From the late 19th century on polo necks were commonly worn by fishermen, manual workers, athletes, sailors and naval officers.[3] Since the middle of that century, black polo necks have been closely associated with leftist radical academics, philosophers, artists and intellectuals.[4][5] The polo neck jumper became an iconic symbol of the French philosopher Michel Foucault.[6] Polo necks also became a big fashion for wealthy young men after they were worn by European film stars Marcello Mastroianni and Yves Montand.[7]
Greta Garbo often wore polo necks and trousers privately, as later Audrey Hepburn would do in official photographs.
Vladimir Putin[8] of Russia, Andreas Papandreou[9] of Greece, and Emmanuel Macron[10] of France are examples of European leaders who are fond of wearing polo necks.
United States
[edit]At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries the high neckline blouse became a fashionable option for young women as part of the emergence of the Gibson Girl.[11] Their adoption by Noël Coward in the 1920s turned polo necks into a brief middle-class fashion trend, and feminists made them into a unisex item. Absorbed into mainstream American fashion by the mid 20th century, the polo neck came to be viewed as an anti-tie, a smart form of dress for those who rejected formal wear. Senator Ted Kennedy, pianist/conductor Vladimir Ashkenazy, conductor Seiji Ozawa, philosopher Michel Foucault, shipping tycoon Stavros Niarchos, singer Barry Manilow, scientist Carl Sagan, Oracle Corporation co-founder Larry Ellison, Theranos founder Elizabeth Holmes, and Apple Inc. co-founder Steve Jobs were among those often seen in polo necks.[12]
Over time it became a fad among teenage girls, especially in a lightweight form that emphasised their figures. It was not long before Hollywood was also exploiting this image as part of the sweater girl look.
By the late 1950s the "tight turtleneck" had been adopted as part of the preppy style among students, a style emphasising neatness, tidiness and grooming. This would become an important aspect of the polo neck's image in the United States.
Turtlenecks were also famous in hippies in 1960s and 1970s.
Very elegant polo necks of silk or nylon knit, especially made with French cuffs for formal dress affairs, have also seen success in American fashion.[13]
As an alternative to the necktie
[edit].jpg)
Polo necks have been used as substitutes for a shirt-and-tie since the 1920s.[15] This was sometimes frowned upon in upscale restaurants and at weddings.
John Berendt wrote in Esquire[15]
the turtleneck was the boldest of all the affronts to the status quo. It was the picture of masculine poise and arrogance, redolent of athletes, sportsmen, even U-boat commanders. The simplicity of its design made neckties seem fussy and superfluous by comparison
turtlenecks are the most comfortable garment you can wear. They move with the body, and they're flattering too, because they accentuate the face and elongate the figure. They make life so easy: you can wear a turtleneck to work and then afterwards throw on a jacket, and it becomes very dressy. You can go anywhere you like.
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ Chilvers, Simon (2011-08-23). "Man-trend: Roll-necks | Fashion | guardian.co.uk". Guardian. Retrieved 2013-03-14.
- ^ Bucci, Jessica (2017-01-10). "Fashion Archives: A Look at the History of the Turtleneck". Fashion Fabric Sourcing. StartUp Fashion. Retrieved 2020-04-02.
- ^ "The Radical History & Psychology of Turtlenecks". The Good Trade. 26 November 2018. Retrieved 2020-04-02.
- ^ Mary Ann Frese Witt, The Humanities and the Modern World, 2000, ISBN 9780669154269, OCLC 254520256, pp. 463–464.
- ^ Deirdre Bair, Simone de Beauvoir: A Biography, 1990, p. 360.
- ^ Eribon, Didier (1992) [1989]. Michel Foucault. Translated by Betsy Wing. Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press. p. 311. ISBN 978-0-571-14474-7.
- ^ Guido Vergani, Dizionario della moda, 2009, p. 348 (in Italian).
- ^ Zbigniew Brzezinski, Putin's Choice, 2008.
- ^ Theodore C. Kariotis, The Greek Socialist Experiment: Papandreou's Greece 1981–1989, 1992
- ^ "What's Emmanuel Macron's Turtleneck Trying to Say?". Vanity Fair. 10 December 2019.
- ^ "The Radical History & Psychology Of Turtlenecks". The Good Trade. 26 November 2018. Retrieved 2020-04-02.
- ^ Warde-Aldam, Digby (15 October 2019). "How the black turtleneck came to represent creative genius". CNN. Retrieved 2020-04-02.
- ^ O'Donnol, Shirley Miles (1989-08-22). American Costume, 1915-1970: A Source Book for the Stage Costumer. Indiana University Press. ISBN 0253113733. Retrieved 2013-03-14.
- ^ Olivarez-Giles, Nathan (October 11, 2011). "Steve Jobs' black turtleneck reportedly explained in biography". Los Angeles Times. Technology (blog). Retrieved June 7, 2014.
- ^ a b c Hoffmann, Frank W.; William G. Bailey (1994). Fashion & Merchandising Fads. Haworth Popular Culture. Binghamton, N.Y.: The Haworth Press. pp. 267–268. ISBN 9781560243762. OCLC 27225478.
External links
[edit]
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Turtlenecks.
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