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{{Short description|Island in the Pacific Ocean}} |
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{{About|the island|the country|Papua New Guinea|the Indonesian region|Western New Guinea|the Nicaraguan municipality|Nueva Guinea|other uses|Guinea (disambiguation)}} |
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{{EngvarB|date=July 2022}} |
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{{Use dmy dates|date=July 2022}} |
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{{Infobox islands |
{{Infobox islands |
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| name = New Guinea |
| name = New Guinea |
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| map_image = Newguinea topo.png |
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| image name = |
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| map_caption = New Guinea Island |
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| image caption = |
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| native_name =<br>''Niugini''<br>''Niu Gini''<br>''Papua'' |
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| map image = LocationNewGuinea.svg |
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| native_name_link = |
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| location = [[Oceania]] |
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| native name = |
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| coordinates = {{Coord|6|S|142|E|type:isle_scale:5000000|display=inline,title}} |
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| native name link = |
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| archipelago = [[Indonesian Archipelago]] |
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---- [[Melanesia]] |
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| coordinates = {{Coord|5|30|S|141|00|E|type:isle_scale:5000000|display=inline,title}} |
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| area_km2 = 785,753 <!-- | area = 785,753 km<sup>2</sup>(303,500 mi sq) --> |
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| archipelago = [[Malay archipelago]] |
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| area_km2 = 785,753 <!-- | area = 785,753 km²(303,500 mi sq) --> |
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| rank = 2nd |
| rank = 2nd |
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| highest_mount = [[Puncak Jaya]] |
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| elevation_m |
| elevation_m = 4,884 <!-- | elevation = 4,884 m (16,023 ft) --> |
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| country = [[Indonesia]] |
| country = [[Indonesia]] |
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| country_admin_divisions_title = Provinces |
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| country_admin_divisions = [[Papua (province)|Papua]]<br>[[Central Papua]]<br>[[Highland Papua]]<br>[[South Papua]]<br>[[Southwest Papua]]<br>[[West Papua (province)|West Papua]] |
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| country_largest_city = [[Jayapura]] |
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| country_largest_city_population = 407,000 |
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| country largest city area = |
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| country1 = [[Papua New Guinea]] |
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| country1_admin_divisions_title = Provinces |
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| country1_admin_divisions = {{plainlist| |
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| country 1 admin divisions = [[Central Province (Papua New Guinea)|Central]]<br />[[Simbu Province|Simbu]]<br />[[Eastern Highlands (Papua New Guinea)|Eastern Highlands]]<br />[[East Sepik]]<br />[[Enga Province|Enga]]<br />[[Gulf Province|Gulf]]<br />[[Hela Province|Hela]]<br />[[Jiwaka Province|Jiwaka]]<br />[[Madang Province|Madang]]<br />[[Morobe Province|Morobe]]<br />[[Oro Province|Oro]]<br />[[Southern Highlands (Papua New Guinea)|Southern Highlands]]<br />[[Western Province, Papua New Guinea|Western]]<br />[[Western Highlands (Papua New Guinea)|Western Highlands]]<br />[[West Sepik]]<br />[[Milne Bay Province|Milne Bay]]<br />[[National Capital District (Papua New Guinea)|National Capital District]] |
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*[[Central Province (Papua New Guinea)|Central]] |
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| country 1 largest city = [[Port Moresby]] |
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*[[Simbu Province|Simbu]] |
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| population = ~ 11,306,940 |
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*[[Eastern Highlands (Papua New Guinea)|Eastern Highlands]] |
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| population as of = 2014 |
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*[[East Sepik]] |
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| density_km2 = 14 |
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*[[Enga Province|Enga]] |
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| ethnic groups = [[Papuan peoples|Papuan]] and [[Austronesian people|Austronesian]] |
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*[[Gulf Province|Gulf]] |
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}} |
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*[[Hela Province|Hela]] |
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'''New Guinea''' ({{Lang-tpi|Niugini}}; {{Lang-nl|Nieuw-Guinea}}; {{Lang-de|Neuguinea}}; {{lang-id|Papua}} or, historically, ''{{lang|id|Irian}}'') is a large island off the continent of [[Australia (continent)|Australia]]. It is the [[List of islands by area|world's second-largest island]], after [[Greenland]], covering a land area of {{cvt|785753|km2}}, and the largest wholly or partly within the [[Southern Hemisphere]] and [[Oceania]]. |
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*[[Jiwaka Province|Jiwaka]] |
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*[[Madang Province|Madang]] |
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*[[Morobe Province|Morobe]] |
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*[[Oro Province|Oro]] |
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*[[Southern Highlands (Papua New Guinea)|Southern Highlands]] |
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*[[Western Province, Papua New Guinea|Western]] |
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*[[Western Highlands (Papua New Guinea)|Western Highlands]] |
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*[[West Sepik]] |
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*[[Milne Bay Province|Milne Bay]] |
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*[[National Capital District (Papua New Guinea)|National Capital District]]}} |
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| country1_largest_city = [[Port Moresby]] |
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| country1_largest_city_population = 402,000 |
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| population = 14,800,000 |
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| population_as_of = 2020 |
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| density_km2 = 18 |
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| ethnic_groups = [[Indigenous people of New Guinea|Papuan]] and others ([[Austronesian peoples|Austronesians]] and [[Melanesians]]) |
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|image=Satellite_map_of_New_Guinea.png}} |
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'''New Guinea''' ({{Langx|tpi|Niugini}}; [[Hiri Motu]]: ''Niu Gini''; {{langx|id|Papua}}, fossilized {{lang|id|Nugini}},{{efn|The alternative name {{lang|id|Nugini}} is generally only used as part of the country name of [[Papua New Guinea]], {{lang|id|Papua Nugini}}, and of the names of the historical territories of [[Dutch New Guinea]] ({{lang|id|Nugini Belanda}}), [[German New Guinea]] ({{lang|id|Nugini Jerman}}), and [[Territory of New Guinea]] ({{lang|id|Teritori Nugini}}). Thus, ''Nugini'' is effectively a [[fossil word]].}} or historically {{lang|id|Irian}}) is the [[List of islands by area|world's second-largest island]], with an area of {{cvt|785753|km2|abbr=on}}. Located in [[Melanesia]] in the southwestern [[Pacific Ocean]], the island is separated from [[Mainland Australia|Australia]] by the {{convert|150|km|nmi mi|adj=on|0|abbr=off}} wide [[Torres Strait]], though both landmasses lie on the same [[continental shelf]], and were united during episodes of low sea level in the [[Pleistocene glaciation]]s as the combined landmass of [[Sahul]]. Numerous smaller islands are located to the west and east. The island's name was given by Spanish explorer [[Yñigo Ortiz de Retez]] during his maritime expedition of 1545 due to the resemblance of the indigenous peoples of the island to those in the [[Guinea (region)|African region of Guinea]].<ref name=geop /> |
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The eastern half of the island is the major land mass of the independent state of [[Papua New Guinea]]. The western half, referred to as [[Western New Guinea]] or [[West Papua (province)|West Papua]] or simply Papua, formerly a Dutch colony, was annexed by Indonesia in 1962 and has been administered by it since then. |
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The eastern half of the island is the major land mass of the nation of [[Papua New Guinea]]. The western half, known as [[Western New Guinea]],<ref>{{cite web |title=West Papua – promoting human rights, peace and democracy in Indonesia |url=https://www.tapol.org/our-work/west-papua |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200209234437/https://www.tapol.org/our-work/west-papua |archive-date=2020-02-09 |website=[[Tapol]]}}</ref> forms a part of [[Indonesia]] and is organized as the provinces of [[Papua (province)|Papua]], [[Central Papua]], [[Highland Papua]], [[South Papua]], [[Southwest Papua]], and [[West Papua (province)|West Papua]]. The two major cities on the island are [[Port Moresby]] and [[Jayapura]]. |
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==Names== |
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[[File:Thevenot - Hollandia Nova detecta 1644.png|thumb|upright|A typical map from the [[Golden Age of Dutch cartography|Golden Age of Netherlandish cartography]]. [[Australasia]] during the Golden Age of Dutch exploration and discovery ({{circa}} 1590s–1720s): including [[New Guinea#European contact|Nova Guinea]] (New Guinea), [[New Holland (Australia)|Nova Hollandia]] ([[mainland Australia]]), [[Van Diemen's Land]] ([[Tasmania]]), and [[Nova Zeelandia]] ([[History of New Zealand|New Zealand]]).]] |
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== Names == |
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[[File:Thevenot - Hollandia Nova detecta 1644.png|thumb|upright|A 1644 map of New Guinea and the surrounding area|left]] |
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The island has been known by various names: |
The island has been known by various names: |
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{{anchor|Papua}}<!--[[Etymology of Papua]] redirects here-->The name ''Papua'' was used to refer to parts of the island before contact with the West.<ref name=tides/> Its etymology is unclear;<ref name=tides/> one theory states that it |
{{anchor|Papua}}<!--[[Etymology of Papua]] redirects here-->The name ''Papua'' was used to refer to parts of the island before contact with the West.<ref name=tides /> Its etymology is unclear;<ref name=tides /> one theory states that it derived from [[Tidore language|Tidore]], the language used by the [[Sultanate of Tidore]].<ref name=geop /> An expedition by the [[Sultanate of Tidore|Sultan of Tidore]], together with Sahmardan, the ''Sangaji'' of [[Patani, North Maluku|Patani]], and the Papuan [[Gurabesi]], managed to conquer some areas in New Guinea, which was then reorganised to form ''Korano Ngaruha'' ("Four Kings") or [[Raja Ampat Islands|Raja Ampat]], ''Papoua Gam Sio'' ({{lit}} "The Papua Nine ''Negeri''"), and ''Mafor Soa Raha'' ({{lit}} The [[Biak|Mafor]] "Four ''Soa''"). The name comes from the words ''papo'' ("to unite") and ''ua'' (negation), which means "not united", i.e. an outlying possession of Tidore.<ref name=geop>{{Cite book|author=Bilveer Singh|title=Papua: geopolitics and the quest for nationhood|publisher=Transaction Publishers|year=2008|page=26|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=pwbO-uRZQx0C|isbn=978-1-4128-1206-1}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book|author=Tarmidzy Thamrin|title=Boven Digoel: lambang perlawanan terhadap kolonialisme|publisher=Ciscom-Cottage|year=2001|page=424|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=uEl0AAAAMAAJ|language=id}}</ref><ref name="Wanggai 2008">{{cite thesis |last=Wanggai |first=Tony V.M. |date=2008 |title=Rekonstruksi Sejarah Islam di Tanah Papua |publisher=UIN Syarif Hidayatullah|url=https://repository.uinjkt.ac.id/dspace/bitstream/123456789/7292/1/Toni%20Victor%20M.%20Wanggai_Rekonstruksi%20Sejarah%20Umat%20Islam%20di%20Tanah%20Papua.pdf|access-date=2022-01-30|language=id}}</ref> |
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| last = Singh |
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| first =Bilveer |
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| title =Papua: geopolitics and the quest for nationhood |
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| publisher =Transaction Publishers |
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| year =2008 |
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| page =26 |
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| url =https://books.google.com/books?id=pwbO-uRZQx0C&pg=PA26 |
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| isbn = 978-1-4128-1206-1}}</ref> |
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Ploeg reports that the word ''papua'' is often said to |
Anton Ploeg reports that the word ''papua'' is often said to be derived from the [[Malay language|Malay]] word {{lang|ms|papua}} or {{lang|ms|pua-pua}}, meaning "frizzly-haired", referring to the very curly hair of the island's inhabitants.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Ploeg |first=Anton |year=2002 |title='De Papoea' What's in a name? |journal=Asia Pacific Journal of Anthropology |volume=3 |issue=1 |pages=75–101 |doi=10.1080/14442210210001706216 |s2cid=145344026 }}</ref> However Sollewijn Gelpke in 1993 considered this unlikely as it had been used earlier, and he instead derived it from the [[Biak language|Biak]] phrase {{lang|bhw|sup i babwa}}, which means "the land below [the sunset]", and refers to the [[Raja Ampat Islands]]. |
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When |
When Portuguese and Spanish explorers arrived via the [[Maluku Islands|Spice Islands]], they also used the name ''Papua''.<ref name=geop /><ref name="Sollewijn Gelpke 1993 pp. 318–332">{{cite journal |last=Sollewijn Gelpke |first=J.H.F. |year=1993 |title=On the origin of the name Papua |journal=Bijdragen tot de Taal-, Land- en Volkenkunde / Journal of the Humanities and Social Sciences of Southeast Asia |publisher=Brill |volume=149 |issue=2 |pages=318–332 |doi=10.1163/22134379-90003129 |issn=0006-2294|doi-access=free }}</ref> However, Westerners, beginning with Spanish explorer [[Yñigo Ortiz de Retez]] in 1545, used the name ''New Guinea'', due to the resemblance between the indigenous peoples of the island and Africans of the [[Guinea (region)|Guinea region]].<ref name=geop /> The name is one of several [[Toponymy|toponyms]] sharing similar [[Place name origins|etymologies]], ultimately meaning "land of the blacks" or similar meanings. |
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The Dutch, who arrived later under [[Jacob Le Maire]] and [[Willem Schouten]], called it ''Schouten island'' |
The Dutch, who arrived later under [[Jacob Le Maire]] and [[Willem Schouten]], called it ''Schouten island''. They later used this name only to refer to islands off the north coast of Papua proper, the [[Schouten Islands]] or Biak Island. When the Dutch colonized the main island as part of the [[Dutch East Indies]], they called it ''Nieuw Guinea''.<ref name=geop /> |
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The name {{lang|id|Irian}} was used in the Indonesian language to refer to the island and Indonesian province, as {{lang|id|Irian Barat}} (West Irian) Province and later {{lang|id|Irian Jaya}} Province. The name Irian was suggested during a tribal committee meeting in Tobati, Jayapura, formed by [[Soegoro Atmoprasodjo]] under governor JP van Eechoed, to decide on a new name because of the negative association of ''Papua''. [[Frans Kaisiepo]], the committee leader, suggested the name from Mansren Koreri myths, {{lang|bhw|Iri-an}} from the [[Biak language]] of [[Biak Island]], meaning "hot land" (referring to the climate), but also from ''Iryan'' which means heated process as a metaphor for a land that is entering a new era. In Serui ''Iri-an'' ({{lit}} "land-nation") means "pillar of nation", while in Merauke ''Iri-an'' ({{lit}} "placed higher-nation") means "rising spirit" or "to rise".<ref name="Wanggai 2008"/><ref name="geop2">{{Cite book |author=Bilveer Singh |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=pwbO-uRZQx0C |title=Papua: geopolitics and the quest for nationhood |publisher=Transaction Publishers |year=2008 |isbn=978-1-4128-1206-1 |page=26}}</ref> The name was promoted in 1945 by Marcus Kaisiepo, brother of [[Frans Kaisiepo]].<ref name="tides">{{Cite book |last=Pickell |first=David |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=WUtz2hjvPvMC&pg=PA153 |title=Between the tides: a fascinating journey among the Kamoro of New Guinea |author2=Kal Müller |publisher=Tuttle Publishing |year=2002 |isbn=978-0-7946-0072-3 |page=153}}</ref> The name was politicized later by Corinus Krey,<ref name="krey">{{cite news | last=Ramdhani | first=Jabbar | title=Mengenal Corinus Krey, Pejuang Pembebasan Papua dan Pencetus Nama Irian | work=detiknews | date=2021-02-15 | url=https://news.detik.com/berita/d-5374024/mengenal-corinus-krey-pejuang-pembebasan-papua-dan-pencetus-nama-irian | language=id | access-date=2023-01-15}}</ref> [[Marthen Indey]], [[Silas Papare]], and others with the [[Indonesian language|Indonesian]] [[backronym]] {{lang|id|Ikut Republik Indonesia Anti Nederland}} ("Join the Republic of Indonesia Oppose the Netherlands").<ref>{{Cite web |last=Ayuwuragil |first=Kustin |title=Frans Kaisiepo dan 'Ikut Republik Indonesia Anti Nederland' |url=https://www.cnnindonesia.com/nasional/20180816162950-20-322837/frans-kaisiepo-dan-ikut-republik-indonesia-anti-nederland|access-date=25 February 2021 |website=nasional |language=id-ID}}</ref><ref name="Wanggai 2008"/> ''Irian'' was used somewhat in 1972.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Crawford |first=Don |title=Miracles In Indonesia |publisher=Tyndale House Publishers |year=1972 |isbn=9780842343503 |location=United States |pages=6}}</ref> The name was used until 2001, when ''Papua'' was again used for the island and the province. The name ''Irian'', which was originally favored by natives, is now considered to be a name imposed by the authority of [[Jakarta]].<ref name=tides /> |
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The name ''Irian'' was used in the Indonesian language to refer to the island and Indonesian province, as "Irian Jaya Province". The name was promoted in 1945 by Marcus Kaisiepo,<ref name=tides>{{Cite book |
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| last =Pickell |
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| first =David |
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|author2=Kal Müller |
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| title =Between the tides: a fascinating journey among the Kamoro of New Guinea |
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| publisher = Tuttle Publishing |
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| year =2002 |
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| page =153 |
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| url =https://books.google.com/books?id=WUtz2hjvPvMC&pg=PA153 |
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| isbn = 978-0-7946-0072-3}}</ref> brother of the future governor [[Frans Kaisiepo]]. It is taken from the [[Biak language]] of [[Biak Island]], and means "to rise", or "rising spirit". ''Irian'' is the name used in the Biak language and other languages such as Serui, Merauke and Waropen.<ref name=geop/> The name was used until 2001, when the name ''Papua'' was again used for the island and the province. The name ''Irian'', which was originally favored by natives, is now considered to be a name imposed by the authority of [[Jakarta]].<ref name=tides/> |
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== Geography == |
== Geography == |
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[[File:Oceania UN Geoscheme - Map of Melanesia.svg|thumb |
[[File:Oceania UN Geoscheme - Map of Melanesia.svg|thumb|Regions of [[Oceania]]: [[Australasia]], [[Polynesia]], [[Micronesia]], and [[Melanesia]]. Physiographically, Australasia includes the [[Geography of Australia|Australian landmass]] (including Tasmania), New Zealand, and New Guinea]] |
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[[File:Melanesian Cultural Area.png|thumb |
[[File:Melanesian Cultural Area.png|thumb|New Guinea located in relation to [[Melanesia]]]] |
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[[File:Papua New Guinea map of Köppen climate classification.svg|thumb| |
[[File:Papua New Guinea map of Köppen climate classification.svg|thumb|Papua New Guinea map of Köppen climate classification]]{{See also|List of highest mountains of New Guinea}} |
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New Guinea is an island to the north of the [[Mainland Australia|Australian mainland]], south of the equator. It is isolated by the [[Arafura Sea]] to the west, and the [[Torres Strait]] and [[Coral Sea]] to the east. Sometimes considered to be the easternmost island of the [[Indonesian archipelago]], it lies north of Australia's [[Top End]], the [[Gulf of Carpentaria]] and [[Cape York Peninsula]], and west of the [[Bismarck Archipelago]] and the [[Solomon Islands (archipelago)|Solomon Islands archipelago]]. |
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[[File:Newguinea topo.png|thumb|upright=1.5|Topographical map of New Guinea]] |
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New Guinea is an island to the north of [[Australia]], but south of the equator. It is isolated by the [[Arafura Sea]] to the west, and the [[Torres Strait]] and [[Coral Sea]] to the east. Sometimes considered to be the easternmost island of the [[Malay archipelago]], it lies north of Australia's [[Top End]], the [[Gulf of Carpentaria]] and [[Cape York peninsula]], and west of the [[Bismarck Archipelago]] and the [[Solomon Islands (archipelago)|Solomon Islands Archipelago]]. |
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Politically, the [[West Papua (region)|western half of the island]] comprises two [[provinces of Indonesia]]: [[Papua (province)|Papua]] and [[West Papua (province)|West Papua]]. The eastern half forms the [[mainland]] of the country of [[Papua New Guinea]] (PNG). |
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Politically, the [[Western New Guinea|western half of the island]] comprises six [[provinces of Indonesia]]: [[Papua (province)|Papua]], [[Central Papua]], [[Highland Papua]], [[South Papua]], [[West Papua (province)|West Papua]] and [[Southwest Papua]]. The eastern half forms the mainland of the country of [[Papua New Guinea]]. |
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The shape of New Guinea is often compared to that of a [[paradisaea|bird-of-paradise]] (indigenous to the island), and this results in the usual names for the two extremes of the island: the [[Bird's Head Peninsula]] in the northwest (''Vogelkop'' in Dutch, ''Kepala Burung'' in Indonesian; also known as the Doberai Peninsula), and the [[Bird's Tail Peninsula]] in the southeast (also known as the Papuan Peninsula). |
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[[File:Newguinea topo.png|thumb|Topographical map of New Guinea]] The shape of New Guinea is often compared to that of a [[paradisaea|bird-of-paradise]] (indigenous to the island), and this results in the usual names for the two extremes of the island: the [[Bird's Head Peninsula]] in the northwest (''Vogelkop'' in Dutch, ''Kepala Burung'' in Indonesian; also known as the Doberai Peninsula), and the Bird's Tail Peninsula in the southeast (also known as the [[Papuan Peninsula]]). |
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A spine of east–west mountains, the [[New Guinea Highlands]], dominates the geography of New Guinea, stretching over {{convert|1600|km|mi|-2|abbr=on}} from the 'head' to the 'tail' of the island. The [[western New Guinea|western half]] of the island of New Guinea contains the highest mountains in [[Oceania]], rising up to {{convert|4884|m|ft|0|abbr=on}} high, and ensuring a steady supply of rain from the equatorial atmosphere. The [[tree line]] is around {{convert|4000|m|ft|-2|abbr=on}} elevation and the tallest peaks contain permanent equatorial [[glacier]]s—which have been retreating since at least 1936.<ref>Prentice, M.L. and G.S. Hope (2006). "Climate of Papua". Ch. 2.3 in Marshall, A.J., and Beehler, B.M. (eds.). The Ecology of Papua. Singapore: Periplus Editions. ''The authors note that "The magnitude of the recession of the Carstensz Glaciers, its causes, and its implications for local, regional, and global climate change are only qualitatively known. The recession of the Carstensz Glaciers from ~11 km<sup>2</sup> in 1942 to 2.4 km<sup>2</sup> by 2000 represents about an 80% decrease in ice area."''</ref><ref>[http://www.easternsnow.org/proceedings/2004/kincaid_and_klein.pdf Kincaid and Kline, "Retreat of the Irian Jaya Glaciers from 2000 to 2002 as Measured from IKONOS Satellite Images", paper presented at 61st Eastern Snow Conference, Portland, Maine, 2004]</ref><ref>[http://www.nichols.edu/DEPARTMENTS/Glacier/glacier_retreat.htm Recent Global Glacier Retreat Overview]</ref> Various other smaller mountain ranges occur both north and west of the central ranges. Except in high elevations, most areas possess a warm humid climate throughout the year, with some seasonal variation associated with the northeast monsoon season. |
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A spine of east–west mountains, the [[New Guinea Highlands]], dominates the geography of New Guinea, stretching over {{convert|1600|km|mi|-2|abbr=on}} across the island, with many mountains over {{convert|4000|m|ft|-2|abbr=on}}. The western half of the island contains the highest mountains in [[Oceania]], with its highest point, [[Puncak Jaya]], reaching an elevation of 4,884 m (16,023 ft). The [[tree line]] is around {{convert|4000|m|ft|-2|abbr=on}} elevation, and the tallest peaks contain equatorial [[glacier]]s—which have been [[Retreat of glaciers since 1850|retreating since at least 1936]].<ref>Prentice, M.L. and G.S. Hope (2006). "Climate of Papua". Ch. 2.3 in Marshall, A.J., and Beehler, B.M. (eds.). The Ecology of Papua. Singapore: Periplus Editions. ''The authors note that "The magnitude of the recession of the Carstensz Glaciers, its causes, and its implications for local, regional, and global climate change are only qualitatively known. The recession of the Carstensz Glaciers from ~11 km<sup>2</sup> in 1942 to 2.4 km<sup>2</sup> by 2000 represents about an 80% decrease in ice area."''</ref><ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.easternsnow.org/proceedings/2004/kincaid_and_klein.pdf |title=Kincaid and Kline, "Retreat of the Irian Jaya Glaciers from 2000 to 2002 as Measured from IKONOS Satellite Images", paper presented at 61st Eastern Snow Conference, Portland, Maine, 2004 |access-date=2 February 2010 |archive-date=17 May 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170517095529/http://www.easternsnow.org/proceedings/2004/kincaid_and_klein.pdf |url-status=dead }}</ref><ref>[http://www.nichols.edu/DEPARTMENTS/Glacier/glacier_retreat.htm Recent Global Glacier Retreat Overview]</ref> Various other smaller mountain ranges occur both north and west of the central ranges. Except in high elevations, most areas possess a warm humid climate throughout the year, with some seasonal variation associated with the northeast monsoon season. |
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The [[List of highest mountains of New Guinea|highest peaks on the island of New Guinea]] are: |
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* [[Puncak Jaya]], sometimes known by its former Dutch name ''Carstensz Pyramid'', is a mist-covered limestone mountain peak on the Indonesian side of the border. At {{convert|4884|m|ft|0}}, Puncak Jaya makes New Guinea the world's [[List of islands by highest point|fourth-highest landmass]] after [[Afro-Eurasia]], [[the Americas|America]] and [[Antarctica]]. |
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* [[Puncak Mandala]], also located in Papua, is the second-highest peak on the island at {{convert|4760|m|ft|0}}. |
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* [[Puncak Trikora]], also in Papua, is {{convert|4750|m|0}}. |
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* [[Mount Wilhelm]] is the highest peak on the PNG side of the border at {{convert|4509|m|ft|0}}. Its granite peak is the highest point of the Bismarck Range. |
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* [[Mount Giluwe]] {{convert|4368|m|ft|0}} is the second-highest summit in PNG. It is also the highest volcanic peak in Oceania. |
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[[File:Mount Bosavi -rim of crater-14Oct2008.jpg|thumb|[[Mount Bosavi]]]] |
[[File:Mount Bosavi -rim of crater-14Oct2008.jpg|thumb|[[Mount Bosavi]]]] |
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[[File:Map of Sunda and Sahul.svg|left|thumb|Map showing the combined landmass of [[Sahul Shelf|Sahul]] formed during Pleistocene glacations]] |
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Another major habitat feature is the vast southern and northern lowlands. Stretching for hundreds of kilometres, these include lowland [[rainforest]]s, extensive wetlands, [[savanna]] grasslands, and some of the largest expanses of [[mangrove]] forest in the world. The southern lowlands are the site of [[Lorentz National Park]], also a [[UNESCO]] [[World Heritage Site]]. The northern lowlands are drained principally by the [[Mamberamo River]] and its tributaries on the Indonesian side, and by the [[Sepik]] on the PNG side; the more extensive southern lowlands by a larger number of rivers, principally the [[Digul]] on the Indonesian side and the [[Fly River|Fly]] on the PNG side. These are the island's major river systems, draining roughly northwest, northeast, southwest, and southeast, respectively. Many have broad areas of meander and result in large areas of [[lake]]s and freshwater swamps. The largest island offshore, [[Dolak]] (Frederik Hendrik, Yos Sudarso), lies near the Digul estuary, separated by a strait so narrow it has been named a "creek". |
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Another major habitat feature is the vast southern and northern lowlands. Stretching for hundreds of kilometres, these include lowland rainforests, extensive wetlands, savanna grasslands, and some of the largest expanses of mangrove forest in the world. The southern lowlands are the site of [[Lorentz National Park]], a [[UNESCO]] [[World Heritage Site]]. The northern lowlands are drained principally by the [[Mamberamo River]] and its tributaries on the western side, and by the [[Sepik]] on the eastern side. The more extensive southern lowlands are drained by a larger number of rivers, principally the [[Digul]] in the west and the [[Fly River|Fly]] in the east. The largest island offshore, [[Yos Sudarso Island|Dolak]], lies near the Digul estuary, separated by a strait so narrow it has been named a "creek". |
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New Guinea contains many of the |
New Guinea contains many of the world's ecosystem types: glacial, [[alpine tundra]], [[savanna]], [[Montane ecosystems|montane]] and lowland rainforest, [[mangrove]]s, [[wetland]]s, lake and [[river ecosystem]]s, [[seagrass]]es, and some of the richest [[coral reef]]s on the planet. |
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The entire length of the [[New Guinea Highlands]] system passes through New Guinea as a vast watershed. The northern rivers flow into the [[Pacific Ocean]], the southern rivers into the [[Arafura Sea]] and the [[Gulf of Papua]]. On the north side, the largest rivers are the Mamberamo, Sepik and Ramu. |
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==Relation to surroundings== |
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[[Mamberamo River|Mamberamo]] was born from the confluence of two large inland rivers. [[Tariku River|Tariku]] comes from the west to the east and [[Taritatu River|Taritatu]] from the east. These rivers meander through swamps with huge internal descents and then merge. The Mamberamo thus formed reaches the ocean by breaking through the Coastal Mountains. Mamberamo River is navigable to Marine Falls. The [[Sepik River|Sepik]] is a much more important river. Similarly, it collects water from a spacious pool. It is 1,100 kilometers from the [[Victor Emanuel Range]] to the estuary, making it the longest river in New Guinea. The winding, muddy, sluggish river can be navigated for 500 km. [[Ramu River|Ramu]] is a 650 km long river. Its lower section is navigable, but its upper flow is high-falling, fast-flowing. The energy of the river is used by a power plant near the city of [[Kainantu]]. |
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The island of New Guinea lies to the east of the [[Malay Archipelago]], with which it is sometimes included as part of a greater Indo-Australian Archipelago.<ref name=Wallace>{{cite web|last=Wallace |first=Alfred Russel |authorlink=Alfred Russel Wallace |title=On the Physical Geography of the Malay Archipelago |url=http://web2.wku.edu/~smithch/wallace/S078.htm |year=1863 |accessdate=30 November 2009 |deadurl=yes |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20100117084201/http://web2.wku.edu/~smithch/wallace/S078.htm |archivedate=January 17, 2010 }}</ref> Geologically it is a part of the same [[tectonic plate]] as Australia. When world sea levels were low, the two shared shorelines (which now lie 100 to 140 metres below sea level),<ref name="aims">{{cite web | year = 2001 | url = http://www.aims.gov.au/c/document_library/get_file?uuid=703cba58-6526-44e4-91eb-7ef84e4ba25d&groupId=30301 | title = Big Bank Shoals of the Timor Sea: An environmental resource atlas | publisher = Australian Institute of Marine Science | accessdate = 2006-08-28}}</ref> and combined with lands now inundated into the tectonic continent of [[Sahul Shelf|Sahul]],<ref name=ballard>{{cite conference |first=Chris |last=Ballard |title=Stimulating minds to fantasy? A critical etymology for Sahul |booktitle=Sahul in review: Pleistocene archaeology in Australia, New Guinea and island Melanesia |pages=19–20 |publisher=Australian National University | location= Canberra |year=1993 |isbn=0-7315-1540-4 }}</ref><ref name="Allen 1977">{{cite book |last=Allen |first=J. |editor-first=J. |editor-last=Golson |editor-first2= R. |editor-last2= Jones |title=Sunda and Sahul: Prehistorical studies in Southeast Asia, Melanesia and Australia |year=1977 |publisher=Academic Press |location=London |isbn=0-12-051250-5 }}</ref> also known as [[Greater Australia]].<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Allen |first=Jim |last2=Gosden |first2=Chris |last3=Jones |first3=Rhys |last4=White |first4=J. Peter |year=1988 |title=Pleistocene dates for the human occupation of New Ireland, northern Melanesia |journal=[[Nature (journal)|Nature]] |volume=331 |issue=6158 |pages=707–709 |doi=10.1038/331707a0 |pmid=3125483}}</ref> The two landmasses became separated when the area now known as the Torres Strait flooded after the end of the [[last glacial period]]. |
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On the south side, the most significant rivers are [[Pulau River|Pulau]], Digul, Fly, [[Kikori River|Kikori]] and [[Purari River|Purari]]. The largest river in the western part of the island is [[Digul River|Digul]]. It originates from the [[Star Mountains]], which rise to an altitude of 4,700 m. The coastal plain is bordered by a swamp world hundreds of kilometers wide. Digul is the main transport route to the fertile hills and mountains within the island. The river [[Fly River|Fly]] is born near the eastern branches of the Digul. It is named after one of the ships of the English Royal Fleet, which first sailed into the mouth of the river in 1845. The total length of the river is 1,050 km. Smaller boats can sail 900 km on the river. The estuary section, which decomposes into islands, is 70 km wide. The tide of the sea can have an effect of up to 300 kilometers. [[Strickland River|Strickland]], a tributary of the Fly, reaches the Papuan Plain through wild gorges. Fly and Strickland together form the largest river in New Guinea. The many rivers flowing into the [[Gulf of Papua]] form a single delta complex. The rivers of the island are extremely rich in water due to the annual rainfall of 2,000–10,000 mm. According to a modest calculation, the New Guinea River carries about {{convert|1,500|km3/year|m3/s|abbr=on}} of water into the sea. Fly alone carries more water {{convert|238|km3/year|m3/s|abbr=on}} than all the rivers in [[Australia]] combined.<ref>{{cite book|url=https://bookline.ro/product/home.action?_v=Balazs_Denes_Ausztralia_Oceania_Antar&type=20&id=398323|title=Ausztrália, Óceánia, Antarktisz|last=Dénes|first=Balázs|year=1978|pages=286–287|publisher=Gondolat |isbn=963-280-677-8}}</ref> |
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Anthropologically, New Guinea is considered part of [[Melanesia]].<ref>"Melanesia, the ethnogeographic region that includes New Guinea, Solomon Islands, Vanuatu, and New Caledonia, contains some of the most remote and inaccessible populations on earth." Highly divergent molecular variants of human T-lymphotropic virus type I from isolated populations in Papua New Guinea and the Solomon Islands, A Gessian, R Yanagihara, G Franchini, R M Garruto, C L Jenkins, A B Ajdukiewicz, R C Gallo, and D C Gajdusek, PNAS September 1, 1991 vol. 88 no. 17 7694–7698</ref> |
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== Relation to surroundings == |
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New Guinea is differentiated from its drier, flatter,<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.smh.com.au/news/National/Map-from-above-shows-Australia-is-a-very-flat-place/2005/01/21/1106110947946.html|title=Map from above shows Australia is a very flat place|date=21 January 2005|last=Macey|first=Richard|publisher=''[[The Sydney Morning Herald]]''|accessdate=5 April 2010}}</ref> and less fertile<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.abc.net.au/quantum/info/q95-19-5.htm|title=A Chat with Tim Flannery on Population Control|last=Kelly|first=Karina|publisher=[[Australian Broadcasting Corporation]]|date=13 September 1995|accessdate=23 April 2010}} "Well, Australia has by far the world's least fertile soils".</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Damaged Dirt|publisher=''[[The Advertiser (Adelaide)|The Advertiser]]''|last=Grant|first=Cameron|url=http://www.1degree.com.au/files/AdvertiserPartworks_Part3_Page8.pdf?download=1&filename=AdvertiserPartworks_Part3_Page8.pdf|date=August 2007|accessdate=23 April 2010|deadurl=yes|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20110706100423/http://www.1degree.com.au/files/AdvertiserPartworks_Part3_Page8.pdf?download=1&filename=AdvertiserPartworks_Part3_Page8.pdf|archivedate=6 July 2011|df=}} "Australia has the oldest, most highly weathered soils on the planet."</ref> southern counterpart, [[Australia]], by its much higher rainfall and its active volcanic geology, with its highest point, [[Puncak Jaya]], reaching an elevation of 4,884 m (16,023 ft). Yet the two land masses share a similar animal fauna, with marsupials, including [[wallaby|wallabies]] and [[Phalangeriformes|possums]], and the egg-laying monotreme, the [[echidna]]. Other than bats and some two dozen indigenous rodent genera,<ref>{{Cite journal |title=A Phylogeny of New Guinea Rodent Genera Based on Phallic Morphology |first=W. Z., Jr. |last=Lidicker |journal=Journal of Mammalogy |volume=49 |issue=4 |year=1968 |pages=609–643 |doi=10.2307/1378724 }}</ref> there are no pre-human indigenous [[placental mammal]]s. Pigs, several additional species of rats, and the ancestor of the [[New Guinea singing dog]] were introduced with human [[colonization]]. |
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[[File:Papua New Guinea (5986602743).jpg|thumb|Highlands of Papua New Guinea]] |
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The island of New Guinea lies to the east of the [[Malay Archipelago]], with which it is sometimes included as part of a greater Indo-Australian Archipelago.<ref name=Wallace>{{cite web|last=Wallace |first=Alfred Russel |author-link=Alfred Russel Wallace |title=On the Physical Geography of the Malay Archipelago |url=http://web2.wku.edu/~smithch/wallace/S078.htm |year=1863 |access-date=30 November 2009 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100117084201/http://web2.wku.edu/~smithch/wallace/S078.htm |archive-date=January 17, 2010 }}</ref> Geologically it is a part of the same [[tectonic plate]] as Australia. When world sea levels were low, the two shared shorelines (which now lie 100 to 140 metres below sea level),<ref name="aims">{{cite web | year = 2001 | url = http://www.aims.gov.au/c/document_library/get_file?uuid=703cba58-6526-44e4-91eb-7ef84e4ba25d&groupId=30301 | title = Big Bank Shoals of the Timor Sea: An environmental resource atlas | publisher = Australian Institute of Marine Science | access-date = 2006-08-28 | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20110927084419/http://www.aims.gov.au/c/document_library/get_file?uuid=703cba58-6526-44e4-91eb-7ef84e4ba25d&groupId=30301 | archive-date = 2011-09-27 | url-status = dead }}</ref> and combined with lands now inundated into the tectonic continent of [[Sahul Shelf|Sahul]],<ref name=ballard>{{cite conference |first=Chris |last=Ballard |title=Stimulating minds to fantasy? A critical etymology for Sahul |book-title=Sahul in review: Pleistocene archaeology in Australia, New Guinea and island Melanesia |pages=19–20 |publisher=[[Australian National University]] | location= Canberra |year=1993 |isbn=0-7315-1540-4 }}</ref><ref name="Allen 1977">{{cite book |last=Allen |first=J. |editor-first=J. |editor-last=Golson |editor2-first=R. |editor2-last=Jones |title=Sunda and Sahul: Prehistorical studies in Southeast Asia, Melanesia and Australia |year=1977 |publisher=Academic Press |location=London |isbn=0-12-051250-5 |url-access=registration |url=https://archive.org/details/sundasahulprehis0000unse }}</ref> also known as Greater Australia.<ref>{{Cite journal |last1=Allen |first1=Jim |last2=Gosden |first2=Chris |last3=Jones |first3=Rhys |last4=White |first4=J. Peter |year=1988 |title=Pleistocene dates for the human occupation of New Ireland, northern Melanesia |journal=[[Nature (journal)|Nature]] |volume=331 |issue=6158 |pages=707–709 |doi=10.1038/331707a0 |pmid=3125483|bibcode=1988Natur.331..707A |s2cid=6912997 }}</ref> The two landmasses became separated when the area now known as the Torres Strait flooded after the end of the [[Last Glacial Period|last glacial period]]. |
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Anthropologically, New Guinea is considered part of [[Melanesia]].<ref>"Melanesia, the ethnogeographic region that includes New Guinea, Solomon Islands, Vanuatu, and New Caledonia, contains some of the most remote and inaccessible populations on earth." Highly divergent molecular variants of human T-lymphotropic virus type I from isolated populations in Papua New Guinea and the Solomon Islands, A Gessian, R Yanagihara, G Franchini, R M Garruto, C L Jenkins, A B Ajdukiewicz, R C Gallo, and D C Gajdusek, PNAS September 1, 1991 vol. 88 no. 17 7694–7698</ref> |
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Prior to the 1970s, archaeologists called the single [[Pleistocene]] landmass by the name ''Australasia'',<ref name="ballard"/> although this word is most often used for a wider region that includes lands, such as [[New Zealand]], which are not on the same continental shelf. In the early 1970s, they introduced the term ''Greater Australia'' for the Pleistocene continent.<ref name=ballard/> Then, at a 1975 conference and consequent publication,<ref name="Allen 1977"/> they extended the name ''Sahul'' from its previous use for just the [[Sahul Shelf]] to cover the continent.<ref name=ballard/> |
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New Guinea is differentiated from its drier, flatter,<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.smh.com.au/news/National/Map-from-above-shows-Australia-is-a-very-flat-place/2005/01/21/1106110947946.html|title=Map from above shows Australia is a very flat place|date=21 January 2005|last=Macey|first=Richard|newspaper=[[The Sydney Morning Herald]]|access-date=5 April 2010}}</ref> and less fertile<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.abc.net.au/quantum/info/q95-19-5.htm|title=A Chat with Tim Flannery on Population Control|last=Kelly|first=Karina|publisher=[[Australian Broadcasting Corporation]]|date=13 September 1995|access-date=23 April 2010}} "Well, Australia has by far the world's least fertile soils".</ref><ref>{{cite news|title=Damaged Dirt|newspaper=[[The Advertiser (Adelaide)|The Advertiser]]|last=Grant|first=Cameron|url=http://www.1degree.com.au/files/AdvertiserPartworks_Part3_Page8.pdf?download=1&filename=AdvertiserPartworks_Part3_Page8.pdf|date=August 2007|access-date=23 April 2010|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110706100423/http://www.1degree.com.au/files/AdvertiserPartworks_Part3_Page8.pdf?download=1&filename=AdvertiserPartworks_Part3_Page8.pdf|archive-date=6 July 2011}} "Australia has the oldest, most highly weathered soils on the planet."</ref> southern counterpart, Australia, by its much higher rainfall and its active volcanic geology. Yet the two land masses share a similar animal fauna, with [[marsupial]]s, including [[wallaby|wallabies]] and [[Phalangeriformes|possums]], and the egg-laying [[monotreme]], the [[echidna]]. Other than bats and some two dozen indigenous rodent genera,<ref>{{Cite journal |title=A Phylogeny of New Guinea Rodent Genera Based on Phallic Morphology | first=W. Z. Jr. |last=Lidicker |journal=Journal of Mammalogy |volume=49 |issue=4 |year=1968 |pages=609–643 |doi=10.2307/1378724 |jstor=1378724 }}</ref> there are no pre-human indigenous [[Placentalia|placental mammals]]. Pigs, several additional species of rats, and the ancestor of the [[New Guinea singing dog]] were introduced with human colonization. |
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==Human presence== |
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The human presence on the island dates back at least 40,000 years, to the oldest homo sapiens migrations out of Africa. Research indicates that the highlands were an early and independent center of agriculture, with evidence of irrigation going back at least 10,000 years.<ref>"The team also dated features consistent with the planting, digging, and tethering of plants and localized drainage systems to 10,000 years ago. Mounds constructed to plant water-intolerant plants such as bananas, sugarcane, and yams are dated to about 6,500 years ago." "Was Papua New Guinea an Early Agriculture Pioneer?" By John Roach, for ''National Geographic News'', [http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2003/06/0623_030623_kukagriculture.html June 23, 2003]</ref> Because of the time depth of its inhabitation and its highly fractured landscape, an unusually high number of languages are spoken on the island, with some 1,000 languages (a figure higher than that of most continents) having been catalogued out of an estimated worldwide [[pre-Columbian]] total of more than 7,000 currently spoken human languages according to [[Ethnologue]]. Most are classified as [[Papuan languages]], a generally accepted geographical term. A number of [[Austronesian languages]] are spoken on the coast and on offshore islands. |
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Prior to the 1970s, archaeologists called the single [[Pleistocene]] landmass by the name ''Australasia'',<ref name="ballard" /> although this word is most often used for a wider region that includes lands, such as [[New Zealand]], which are not on the same continental shelf. In the early 1970s, they introduced the term ''Greater Australia'' for the Pleistocene continent.<ref name=ballard /> Then, at a 1975 conference and consequent publication,<ref name="Allen 1977" /> they extended the name ''Sahul'' from its previous use for just the Sahul Shelf to cover the continent.<ref name=ballard /> |
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In the 16th century, Spanish explorers arrived at the island and called it ''Nueva Guinea''. In recent history, western New Guinea was included in the [[Dutch East Indies]] colony. The Germans annexed the northern coast of the eastern half of the island as [[German New Guinea]] in their pre–World War I effort to establish themselves as a colonial power, whilst the southeastern portion was reluctantly claimed by Britain. Following the [[Treaty of Versailles]], the German portion was awarded to Australia (which was already governing the British claim, named the [[Territory of Papua]]) as a [[League of Nations]] mandate. The eastern half of the island was granted independence from Australia in 1975, as Papua New Guinea. The western half gained independence from the Dutch in 1961, but became part of Indonesia soon afterwards in [[Act of Free Choice|controversial circumstances]].<ref>[http://www.gwu.edu/~nsarchiv/NSAEBB/NSAEBB12/ (authorization required)]</ref> |
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== Political divisions == |
== Political divisions == |
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[[File:New guinea named.PNG|thumb|Political divisions of New Guinea]] |
[[File:New guinea named.PNG|thumb|Political divisions of New Guinea (2006)]] |
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[[File:Indonesian administrative divisions in Western New Guinea (2023).svg|thumb| |
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The island of New Guinea is [[List of divided islands|divided politically]] into roughly equal halves across a north-south line: |
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{{legend|#1ee7b8|[[Southwest Papua|Southwest Papua province]]}} |
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{{legend|#a7c20f|[[West Papua (province)|West Papua province]]}} |
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{{legend|#9672c9|[[Papua, Indonesia|Papua province]]}} |
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{{legend|#10aeb1|[[Central Papua|Central Papua province]]}} |
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{{legend|#1186e5|[[Highland Papua|Highland Papua province]]}} |
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{{legend|#519b50|[[South Papua|South Papua province]]}} |
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]] |
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The island of New Guinea is [[List of divided islands|divided politically]] into roughly equal halves across a north–south line: |
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* The [[Western New Guinea|western portion]] of the island located west of [[141st meridian east|141°E longitude]] (except for a small section of territory to the east of the [[Fly River]] which belongs to Papua New Guinea) was formerly a [[Dutch Empire|Dutch colony]], part of the [[Dutch East Indies]]. After the [[ |
* The [[Western New Guinea|western portion]] of the island located west of [[141st meridian east|141°E longitude]] (except for a small section of territory to the east of the [[Fly River]] which belongs to Papua New Guinea) was formerly a [[Dutch Empire|Dutch colony]], part of the [[Dutch East Indies]]. After the [[West New Guinea dispute]] it is now six [[Indonesia]]n provinces: |
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** [[West Papua (Indonesian province)|West Papua]] with [[Manokwari]] as its capital. |
** [[West Papua (Indonesian province)|West Papua]] with [[Manokwari]] as its capital. |
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** [[Papua (Indonesian province)|Papua]] with the city of [[Jayapura]] as its capital. |
** [[Papua (Indonesian province)|Papua]] with the city of [[Jayapura]] as its capital. |
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** [[Highland Papua]] with [[Jayawijaya Regency]] as its capital. |
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* The eastern part forms the mainland of [[Papua New Guinea]], which has been an independent country since 1975. It was formerly the [[Territory of Papua and New Guinea]] governed by Australia, consisting of the [[Territory of New Guinea|Trust Territory of New Guinea]] (northeastern quarter, formerly [[German New Guinea]]), and the [[Territory of Papua]] (southeastern quarter). The country consists of four regions: |
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** [[Central Papua]] with [[Nabire Regency]] as its capital. |
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** [[Papua Region|Papua]], consisting of [[Western Province, Papua New Guinea|Western]], [[Gulf Province|Gulf]], [[Central Province, Papua New Guinea|Central]], [[Oro Province|Oro (Northern)]] and [[Milne Bay Province|Milne Bay]] provinces. |
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** [[South Papua]] with [[Merauke Regency]] as its capital. |
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** [[Southwest Papua]] with [[Sorong]] as its capital |
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* The eastern part forms the mainland of [[Papua New Guinea]], which has been an independent country since 1975. It was formerly the [[Territory of Papua and New Guinea]] governed by Australia, consisting of the [[Territory of New Guinea|Trust Territory of New Guinea]] (northeastern quarter, formerly [[German New Guinea]]), and the [[Territory of Papua]] (southeastern quarter). Three of Papua New Guinea's [[Regions of Papua New Guinea|four regions]] are parts of New Guinea island: |
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** [[Southern Region, Papua New Guinea|Southern]], consisting of [[Western Province, Papua New Guinea|Western]], [[Gulf Province|Gulf]], [[Central Province, Papua New Guinea|Central]], [[Oro Province|Oro (Northern)]] and [[Milne Bay Province|Milne Bay]] provinces. |
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** [[Highlands Region|Highlands]], consisting of [[Southern Highlands, Papua New Guinea|Southern Highlands]], [[Hela Province]], [[Jiwaka Province]], [[Enga Province]], [[Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea|Western Highlands]], [[Simbu Province|Simbu]] and [[Eastern Highlands, Papua New Guinea|Eastern Highlands]] provinces. |
** [[Highlands Region|Highlands]], consisting of [[Southern Highlands, Papua New Guinea|Southern Highlands]], [[Hela Province]], [[Jiwaka Province]], [[Enga Province]], [[Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea|Western Highlands]], [[Simbu Province|Simbu]] and [[Eastern Highlands, Papua New Guinea|Eastern Highlands]] provinces. |
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** [[Momase Region|Momase]], consisting of [[Morobe Province|Morobe]], [[Madang Province|Madang]], [[East Sepik]] and [[Sandaun |
** [[Momase Region|Momase]], consisting of [[Morobe Province|Morobe]], [[Madang Province|Madang]], [[East Sepik]] and [[Sandaun]] (West Sepik) provinces. |
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** [[Islands Region|Islands]], consisting of [[Manus Province|Manus]], [[West New Britain]], [[East New Britain]] and [[New Ireland Province|New Ireland]] provinces, and the [[Bougainville Province|Bougainville]] Autonomous Province. |
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== |
== Demographics == |
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=== 10 largest cities and towns in New Guinea (Papua) by population === |
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{{see also|Demographics of Papua New Guinea}} |
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[[File: |
[[File:Aww, Metropolitan, Jayapura, Papua, Indonesia.png|thumb|[[Jayapura]], the most populus and largest cities on the island of New Guinea (Papua)]] |
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* {{legend|#cfecec|Provincial capital|border=solid 1px #AAAAAA}} |
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The current population of the island of New Guinea is about eleven million. Many believe human habitation on the island dates to as early as 50,000 [[Before Christ|BC]],<ref>[https://www.reuters.com/article/2010/09/30/us-australia-png-humans-idUSTRE68T4X620100930 Anthropology Professor Glenn Summerhayes, University of Otago, New Zealand. September 2010]</ref> and first settlement possibly dating back to 60,000 years ago has been proposed. The island is presently populated by almost a thousand different tribal groups and a near-equivalent number of separate languages, which makes New Guinea the most linguistically diverse area in the world. [[Ethnologue]]'s 14th edition lists 826 languages of [[Papua New Guinea]] and 257 languages of [[Irian Jaya]], total 1073 languages, with 12 languages overlapping. They fall into one of two groups, the [[Papuan languages]] and the [[Austronesian languages]]. |
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* {{legend|#ccff99|National capital|border=solid 1px #AAAAAA}} |
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{| class="sortable wikitable" |
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! Rank !! City !! Population !! Country !! Province |
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|- |
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| style="text-align:center;"|1 || style="text-align:left;background-color:#cfecec"|'''[[Jayapura]]''' || style="text-align:right;" | 414,862 || {{IDN}} || {{flag|Papua}} |
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|- |
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| style="text-align:center;"|2 || style="text-align:left;background-color:#ccff99"|'''[[Port Moresby]]''' || style="text-align:right;" | 383,000 || {{PNG}} ||[[National Capital District (Papua New Guinea)|NCD]] |
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|- |
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| style="text-align:center;"|3 || style="text-align:left;background-color:#cfecec"|'''[[Sorong]]''' || style="text-align:right;" | 294,978 || {{IDN}} || {{flag|Southwest Papua}} |
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|- |
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| style="text-align:center;"|4 || style="text-align:left"|'''[[Timika]]''' || style="text-align:right;" | 142,909 || {{IDN}} || {{flag|Central Papua}} |
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|- |
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| style="text-align:center;"|5 || style="text-align:left;background-color:#cfecec"|'''[[Manokwari]]''' || style="text-align:right;" | 107,325 || {{IDN}} || {{flag|West Papua}} |
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|- |
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| style="text-align:center;"|6 || style="text-align:left;background-color:#cfecec"|'''[[Lae]]''' || style="text-align:right;" | 104,000 || {{PNG}} || [[Morobe, Papua New Guinea|Morobe]] |
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|- |
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| style="text-align:center;"|7 || style="text-align:left"|'''[[Merauke]]''' || style="text-align:right;" | 102,351 || {{IDN}} || {{flag|South Papua}} |
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|- |
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| style="text-align:center;"|8 || style="text-align:left"|'''[[Nabire]]''' || style="text-align:right;" | 99,848 || {{IDN}} || {{flag|Central Papua}} |
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|- |
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| style="text-align:center;"|9 || style="text-align:left"|'''[[Sentani, Jayapura|Sentani]]''' || style="text-align:right;" | 71,174 || {{IDN}} || {{flag|Papua}} |
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|- |
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| style="text-align:center;"|10 || style="text-align:left"|'''[[Wamena]]''' || style="text-align:right;" | 66,080 || {{IDN}} || {{flag|Highland Papua}} |
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|- |
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|} |
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=== People === |
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The separation was not merely linguistic; [[Endemic warfare|warfare]] among societies was a factor in the evolution of the ''men's house'': separate housing of groups of adult men, from the single-family houses of the women and children, for mutual protection from other tribal groups. [[Pig]]-based trade between the groups and pig-based feasts are a common theme with the other peoples of southeast Asia and Oceania. Most societies practice [[agriculture]], supplemented by [[Hunter-gatherer|hunting and gathering]]. |
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{{See also|People of New Guinea}} |
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[[File:Yali man Baliem Valley Papua.jpg|thumb|left|[[Yali people|Yali]] tribesman in the [[Baliem Valley]]]] |
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The current population of the island of New Guinea is about fifteen million. Archaeological evidence indicates that humans may have inhabited the island continuously since 50,000 BCE,<ref>{{cite journal | url=https://www.science.org/doi/full/10.1126/science.1193130 | doi=10.1126/science.1193130 | title=Human Adaptation and Plant Use in Highland New Guinea 49,000 to 44,000 Years Ago | date=2010 | last1=Summerhayes | first1=Glenn R. | last2=Leavesley | first2=Matthew | last3=Fairbairn | first3=Andrew | last4=Mandui | first4=Herman | last5=Field | first5=Judith | last6=Ford | first6=Anne | last7=Fullagar | first7=Richard | journal=Science | volume=330 | issue=6000 | pages=78–81 | pmid=20929808 | bibcode=2010Sci...330...78S | s2cid=5744544 }}</ref><ref>[https://www.reuters.com/article/us-australia-png-humans-idUSTRE68T4X620100930 Anthropology Professor Glenn Summerhayes, University of Otago, New Zealand. September 2010]</ref> and first settlement possibly dating back to 60,000 years ago has been proposed. The island is presently populated by almost a thousand different tribal groups and a near-equivalent number of separate languages, which makes New Guinea the most linguistically diverse area in the world. [[Ethnologue]]'s 14th edition lists 826 languages of [[Papua New Guinea]] and 257 languages of [[Western New Guinea]], total 1073 languages, with 12 languages overlapping.{{clarify|reason=826+257–12=1071|date=January 2021}} They can be divided into two groups, the [[Austronesian languages]], and all the others placed in the catch-all category of [[Papuan languages]], most of which are unrelated.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Palmer|first=Bill|title=The Languages and Linguistics of the New Guinea Area|publisher=Mouton De Gruyter|year=2018|isbn=978-3-11-028642-7}}</ref> |
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The separation is not merely linguistic; [[Endemic warfare|warfare]] among societies was a factor in the evolution of the ''men's house'': separate housing for groups of adult men, away from the single-family houses of women and children.{{citation needed|date=February 2021}} Pig-based trade between groups and pig-based feasts form a common tradition with the other peoples of southeast Asia and Oceania. Most Papuan societies practice agriculture, supplemented by hunting and gathering. |
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[[File:Kurulu Village War Chief.jpg|thumb|left|upright=1.05|Kurulu Village War Chief at Baliem Valley]] |
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[[File:Kurulu Village War Chief.jpg|thumb|left|Yali Mabel, Kurulu Village War Chief at Baliem Valley]] |
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The great variety of the island's indigenous populations are frequently assigned to one of two main ethnological divisions, based on archaeological, linguistic and genetic evidence: the [[Papuan peoples|Papuan]] and [[Austronesian people|Austronesian]] groups.<ref>[http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/373679/Melanesian-culture/276594/Traditional-Melanesia#ref991677 Encyclopædia Britannica Online]</ref> |
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Current evidence indicates that the Papuans (who constitute the majority of the island's peoples) are descended from the earliest human inhabitants of New Guinea. These original inhabitants first arrived in New Guinea at a time |
Current evidence indicates that the Papuans (who constitute the majority of the island's peoples) are descended from the earliest human inhabitants of New Guinea. These original inhabitants first arrived in New Guinea at a time around the [[Last Glacial Maximum]] (c. 21,000 years ago) when the island was connected to the Australian continent via a [[land bridge]], forming the landmass of [[Australia (continent)|Sahul]]. These peoples had made the (shortened) sea-crossing from the islands of [[Wallacea]] and [[Sundaland]] (the present [[Malay Archipelago]]) by at least 40,000 years ago. |
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[[File:KorowaiHombre01.jpg|thumb|[[Korowai people|Korowai]] tribesman]] |
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[[File:KorowaiHombre01.jpg|thumb|upright|[[Korowai people|Korowai]] tribesman]] |
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The ancestral Austronesian peoples are believed to have arrived considerably later, approximately 3,500 years ago, as part of a gradual seafaring migration from [[Southeast Asia]], possibly originating in Taiwan. Austronesian-speaking peoples colonized many of the offshore islands to the north and east of New Guinea, such as [[New Ireland (island)|New Ireland]] and [[New Britain]], with settlements also on the coastal fringes of the main island in places. Human habitation of New Guinea over tens of thousands of years has led to a great deal of diversity, which was further increased by the later arrival of the Austronesians and the more recent history of European and Asian settlement through events like [[Transmigration program|transmigration]]. About half of the 2.4 million inhabitants of Indonesian Papua are [[Java]]nese migrants.<ref name=celerier>Philippe Pataud Celerier, [http://mondediplo.com/2010/06/14indonesia Autonomy isn’t independence; Indonesian democracy stops in Papua], [[Le Monde Diplomatique]], June 2010</ref> |
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The ancestral Austronesian peoples are believed to have arrived considerably later, approximately 3,500 years ago, as part of a gradual seafaring migration from [[Southeast Asia]], possibly originating in Taiwan. Austronesian-speaking peoples colonized many of the offshore islands to the north and east of New Guinea, such as [[New Ireland (island)|New Ireland]] and [[New Britain]], with settlements also on the coastal fringes of the main island in places. Human habitation of New Guinea over tens of thousands of years has led to a great deal of diversity, which was further increased by the later arrival of the Austronesians and the more recent history of European and Asian settlement through events like [[Transmigration program|transmigration]]. |
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Large areas of New Guinea are yet to be explored by scientists and anthropologists. The Indonesian province of [[West Papua (province)|West Papua]] is home to an estimated 44 [[Uncontacted peoples|uncontacted tribal groups]].<ref>[http://www.survivalinternational.org/news/2191 First contact with isolated tribes?]</ref> |
Large areas of New Guinea are yet to be explored by scientists and anthropologists. The Indonesian province of [[West Papua (province)|West Papua]] is home to an estimated 44 [[Uncontacted peoples|uncontacted tribal groups]].<ref>[http://www.survivalinternational.org/news/2191 First contact with isolated tribes?]</ref> |
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== Biodiversity and ecology == |
== Biodiversity and ecology == |
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{{Main|Fauna of New Guinea}} |
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With some 786,000 km<sup>2</sup> of tropical land—less than one-half of one percent (0.5%) of the Earth's surface—New Guinea has an immense [[biodiversity]], containing between 5 and 10 percent of the total species on the planet. This percentage is about the same amount as that found in the United States or Australia. A high percentage of New Guinea's species are [[endemic (ecology)|endemic]], and thousands are still unknown to science: probably well over 200,000 species of insect, between 11,000 and 20,000 plant species, and over 650 resident bird species. Most of these species are shared, at least in their origin, with the continent of Australia, which was until fairly recent geological times part of the same landmass (see [[Australia-New Guinea]] for an overview). The island is so large that it is considered 'nearly a continent' in terms of its biological distinctiveness. |
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In the period from 1998 to 2008, conservationists identified 1,060 new species in New Guinea, including 218 plants, 43 reptiles, 12 mammals, 580 invertebrates, 134 amphibians, 2 birds and 71 fish.<ref>{{cite news| url=https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2011/jun/26/new-guinea-new-species-wwf | location=London | work=The Guardian | first=Tracy | last=McVeigh | title=Conservationists discover more than 1,000 species in New Guinea | date=26 June 2011}}</ref> Between 2011 and 2017, researchers described 465 previously undocumented plant species in New Guinea.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Middleton |first=D.J. |title=Progress on Southeast Asia's Flora projects |journal=Gardens' Bulletin Singapore |year=2019 |volume=72 |issue=2 |pages=367–319 |doi=10.26492/gbs71(2).2019-02 |display-authors=etal |doi-access=free }}</ref> As of 2019, the Indonesian portion of New Guinea and the Maluku Islands is estimated to have 9,518 species of vascular plants, of which 4,380 are endemic. In 2020, an international study conducted by a team of 99 experts cataloged 13,634 species representing 1,742 genera and 264 families of vascular plants for New Guinea and its associated islands ([[Aru Islands Regency|Aru Islands]], [[Bismarck Archipelago]], [[:Category:D'Entrecasteaux Islands|D'Entrecasteaux Islands]], [[Louisiade Archipelago]]), making it the world's most floristically diverse island, surpassing [[Madagascar]] (11,488), [[Borneo]] (11,165), [[Java]] (4,598), and [[Philippines|the Philippines]] (9,432).<ref>{{Cite journal|last1=Cámara-Leret|first1=Rodrigo|last2=Frodin|first2=David G.|last3=Adema|first3=Frits|last4=Anderson|first4=Christiane|last5=Appelhans|first5=Marc S.|last6=Argent|first6=George|last7=Arias Guerrero|first7=Susana|last8=Ashton|first8=Peter|last9=Baker|first9=William J.|last10=Barfod|first10=Anders S.|last11=Barrington|first11=David|date=August 2020|title=New Guinea has the world's richest island flora|url=https://www.nature.com/articles/s41586-020-2549-5|journal=Nature|language=en|volume=584|issue=7822|pages=579–583|doi=10.1038/s41586-020-2549-5|pmid=32760001|bibcode=2020Natur.584..579C|s2cid=220980697|issn=1476-4687}}</ref> |
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{{Main article|Fauna of New Guinea}} |
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[[File:Raggiana Bird-of-Paradise wild 5.jpg|thumb|upright|The [[raggiana bird-of-paradise]] is native to New Guinea.]] |
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With some 786,000 km<sup>2</sup> of tropical land—less than one-half of one percent (0.5%) of the Earth's surface—New Guinea has an immense [[biodiversity]], containing between 5 and 10 percent of the total species on the planet. This percentage is about the same amount as that found in the United States or Australia. A high percentage of New Guinea's species are [[endemic (ecology)|endemic]], and thousands are still unknown to science: probably well over 200,000 species of insect, between 11,000 and 20,000 plant species, and over 650 resident bird species. Most of these species are shared, at least in their origin, with the continent of Australia, which was until fairly recent geological times part of the same landmass (see [[Australia-New Guinea]] for an overview). The island is so large that it is considered 'nearly a continent' in terms of its biological distinctiveness. |
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In the period from 1998 to 2008, conservationists identified 1,060 new species in New Guinea, including 218 plants, 43 reptiles, 12 mammals, 580 invertebrates, 134 amphibians, 2 birds and 71 fish.<ref>{{cite news| url=https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2011/jun/26/new-guinea-new-species-wwf | location=London | work=The Guardian | first=Tracy | last=McVeigh | title=Conservationists discover more than 1,000 species in New Guinea | date=26 June 2011}}</ref> |
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[[File:Raggiana Bird-of-Paradise wild 5.jpg|thumb|The [[raggiana bird-of-paradise]] is native to New Guinea.]] |
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[[File:Malesia.png|thumb|The floristic region of [[Malesia]]]] |
[[File:Malesia.png|thumb|The floristic region of [[Malesia]]]] |
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[[Biogeography|Biogeographically]], New Guinea is part of [[Australasia]] rather than the [[Indomalaya]]n realm, although New Guinea's flora has many more affinities with Asia than its fauna, which is overwhelmingly Australian. Botanically, New Guinea is considered part of [[Malesia]], a floristic region that extends from the |
[[Biogeography|Biogeographically]], New Guinea is part of [[Australasian realm|Australasia]] rather than the [[Indomalaya]]n realm, although New Guinea's flora has many more affinities with Asia than its fauna, which is overwhelmingly Australian. Botanically, New Guinea is considered part of [[Malesia]], a floristic region that extends from the Malay Peninsula across Indonesia to New Guinea and the [[East Melanesian Islands]]. The flora of New Guinea is a mixture of many [[tropical rainforest]] species with origins in Asia, together with typically Australasian flora. Typical Southern Hemisphere flora include the [[conifer]]s ''[[Podocarpus]]'' and the rainforest emergents ''[[Araucaria]]'' and ''[[Agathis]],'' as well as [[tree fern]]s and several species of ''[[Eucalyptus]]''. |
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New Guinea has 284 species and six orders of mammals: [[monotremes]], three orders of [[marsupials]], [[rodent]]s and [[bat]]s; 195 of the mammal species (69%) are endemic. New Guinea has 578 species of breeding birds, of which 324 species are endemic. The island's frogs are one of the most poorly known vertebrate groups, totalling 282 species, but this number is expected to double or even triple when all species have been documented. New Guinea has a rich diversity of coral life and 1,200 species of fish have been found. Also about 600 species of reef-building coral—the latter equal to 75 percent of the |
New Guinea has 284 species and six orders of mammals: [[monotremes]], three orders of [[marsupials]], [[rodent]]s and [[bat]]s; 195 of the mammal species (69%) are endemic. New Guinea has 578 species of breeding birds, of which 324 species are endemic. The island's frogs are one of the most poorly known vertebrate groups, totalling 282 species, but this number is expected to double or even triple when all species have been documented. New Guinea has a rich diversity of coral life and 1,200 species of fish have been found. Also about 600 species of reef-building coral—the latter equal to 75 percent of the world's known total. The entire coral area covers 18 million hectares off a peninsula in northwest New Guinea. |
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[[File:Buaya Irian Crocodylus novaeguineae Bandung Zoo 2.JPG|thumb|[[New Guinea crocodile]]]] |
[[File:Buaya Irian Crocodylus novaeguineae Bandung Zoo 2.JPG|thumb|[[New Guinea crocodile]]]] |
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As of 2020, the Western portion of New Guinea, Papua and West Papua, accounts for 54% of the island's primary forest and about 51% of the island's total tree cover, according to satellite data.<ref>{{Cite web|author=Butler, Rhett|title=New Guinea|publisher=Mongabay|year=2020|url=http://rainforests.mongabay.com/new-guinea/}}</ref> |
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=== Ecoregions === |
=== Ecoregions === |
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{{Main|Ecoregions of New Guinea}} |
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==== Terrestrial ==== |
==== Terrestrial ==== |
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According to the [[World Wide Fund for Nature|WWF]], New Guinea can be divided into twelve [[terrestrial ecoregion]]s:<ref>Wikramanayake, Eric; Eric Dinerstein; Colby J. Loucks; et al. (2002). ''Terrestrial Ecoregions of the Indo-Pacific: a Conservation Assessment.'' Island Press; Washington, DC</ref> |
According to the [[World Wide Fund for Nature|WWF]], New Guinea can be divided into twelve [[terrestrial ecoregion]]s:<ref>Wikramanayake, Eric; Eric Dinerstein; Colby J. Loucks; et al. (2002). ''Terrestrial Ecoregions of the Indo-Pacific: a Conservation Assessment.'' Island Press; Washington, DC</ref> |
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* [[Southern New Guinea freshwater swamp forests]] |
* [[Southern New Guinea freshwater swamp forests]] |
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* [[Southern New Guinea lowland rain forests]] |
* [[Southern New Guinea lowland rain forests]] |
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* [[Trans |
* [[Trans-Fly savanna and grasslands]] |
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* [[Vogelkop montane rain forests]] |
* [[Vogelkop montane rain forests]] |
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* [[Vogelkop-Aru lowland rain forests]] |
* [[Vogelkop-Aru lowland rain forests]] |
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==== Freshwater ==== |
==== Freshwater ==== |
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The [[World Wide Fund for Nature|WWF]] and [[Nature Conservancy]] divide New Guinea into five [[freshwater ecoregion]]s:<ref>{{Cite journal |last1=Abell |first1=Robin |first2=Michele L. |last2=Thieme |title=Freshwater Ecoregions of the World: A New Map of Biogeographic Units for Freshwater Biodiversity Conservation |journal=BioScience |year=2008 |volume=58 |issue=5 |pages=403–414 |doi=10.1641/B580507 |display-authors=etal|doi-access=free }}</ref> |
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The [[World Wide Fund for Nature|WWF]] and [[Nature Conservancy]] divide New Guinea into five [[freshwater ecoregion]]s:<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Abell |first=Robin |first2=Michele L. |last2=Thieme |title=Freshwater Ecoregions of the World: A New Map of Biogeographic Units for Freshwater Biodiversity Conservation |journal=BioScience |year=2008 |volume=58 |issue=5 |pages=403–414 |doi=10.1641/B580507 |display-authors=etal}}</ref> |
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* [[Vogelkop–Bomberai]] |
* [[Vogelkop–Bomberai]] |
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==== Marine ==== |
==== Marine ==== |
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The WWF and Nature Conservancy identify several [[marine ecoregion]]s in the seas bordering New Guinea:<ref>{{Cite journal |last1=Spalding |first1=Mark D. |first2=Helen E. |last2=Fox |first3=Gerald R. |last3=Allen |first4=Nick |last4=Davidson |title=Marine Ecoregions of the World: A Bioregionalization of Coastal and Shelf Areas |journal=BioScience |volume=57 |issue=7 |year=2007 |pages=573–583 |doi=10.1641/B570707 |display-authors=etal|doi-access=free }}</ref> |
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The WWF and Nature Conservancy identify several [[marine ecoregion]]s in the seas bordering New Guinea:<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Spalding |first=Mark D. |first2=Helen E. |last2=Fox |first3=Gerald R. |last3=Allen |first4=Nick |last4=Davidson |title=Marine Ecoregions of the World: A Bioregionalization of Coastal and Shelf Areas |journal=BioScience |volume=57 |issue=7 |year=2007 |pages=573–583 |doi=10.1641/B570707 |display-authors=etal}}</ref> |
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* [[Papua (ecoregion)|Papua]] |
* [[Papua (ecoregion)|Papua]] |
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* [[Arafura Sea]] |
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* [[Bismarck Sea]] |
* [[Bismarck Sea]] |
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* [[Solomon Sea]] |
* [[Solomon Sea]] |
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* Southeast Papua New Guinea |
* Southeast Papua New Guinea |
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* [[Gulf of Papua]] |
* [[Gulf of Papua]] |
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* [[Arafura Sea]] |
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==History== |
== History == |
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{{See also|History of Papua New Guinea|History of Western New Guinea}} |
{{See also|History of Papua New Guinea|History of Western New Guinea}} |
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===Early history=== |
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[[File:Map of Sunda and Sahul.png|upright=0.9|thumb|The continent of Sahul before the rising ocean sundered Australia and New Guinea after the last ice age.]] |
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The first [[inhabitant]]s of New Guinea arrived at least 50,000 years ago, having travelled through the south-east Asian peninsula. These first inhabitants, from whom the Papuan people are probably descended, adapted to the range of ecologies and, in time, developed one of the earliest known agricultures. Remains of this agricultural system, in the form of ancient irrigation systems in the highlands of Papua New Guinea, are being studied by archaeologists. This work is still in its early stages, so there is still uncertainty as to precisely what crop was being grown, or when/where agriculture arose. [[Sugar cane]] was cultivated for the first time in New Guinea around 6000 BC.<ref>[http://www.plantcultures.org/plants/sugar_cane_history_early_origins_and_spread.html Sugar cane early origins and spread]. Plant Cultures (2004-11-18). Retrieved on 2013-07-29.</ref> |
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=== Early history === |
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The gardens of the [[New Guinea Highlands]] are ancient, intensive [[permaculture]]s, adapted to high population densities, very high rainfalls (as high as 10,000 mm/yr (400 in/yr)), earthquakes, hilly land, and occasional frost. Complex mulches, crop rotations and tillages are used in rotation on terraces with complex irrigation systems. Western agronomists still do not understand all of the practices, and it has been noted that native gardeners are as, or even more, successful than most scientific farmers in raising certain crops.<ref>Diamond, Jared. ''Collapse''. (German translation), Frankfurt 2005, p. 350.</ref> There is evidence that New Guinea gardeners invented crop rotation well before western Europeans.<ref>Diamond, Jared. ''Collapse''. (German translation), Frankfurt 2005, p. 351.</ref> A unique feature of New Guinea permaculture is the [[silviculture]] of ''Casuarina oligodon'', a tall, sturdy native [[Casuarinaceae|ironwood]] tree, suited to use for timber and fuel, with root nodules that fix nitrogen. [[Palynology|Pollen studies]] show that it was adopted during an ancient period of extreme deforestation. |
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[[File:Map of Sunda and Sahul.svg|upright=0.9|thumb|The continent of Sahul before the rising ocean sundered Australia and New Guinea after the last ice age]] |
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The first inhabitants [[Indigenous people of New Guinea]], from whom the Papuan people are probably descended, adapted to the range of ecologies and, in time, developed one of the earliest known agricultures. Remains of this agricultural system, in the form of ancient irrigation systems in the highlands of Papua New Guinea, are being studied by archaeologists. Research indicates that the highlands were an early and independent center of agriculture, with evidence of irrigation going back at least 10,000 years.<ref>"The team also dated features consistent with the planting, digging, and tethering of plants and localized drainage systems to 10,000 years ago. Mounds constructed to plant water-intolerant plants such as bananas, sugarcane, and yams are dated to about 6,500 years ago." "Was Papua New Guinea an Early Agriculture Pioneer?" By John Roach, for ''National Geographic News'', [https://web.archive.org/web/20050311082543/http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2003/06/0623_030623_kukagriculture.html June 23, 2003]</ref> [[Sugarcane]] was cultivated in New Guinea around 6000 BCE.<ref>[http://www.plantcultures.org/plants/sugar_cane_history_early_origins_and_spread.html Sugar cane early origins and spread] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090706140248/http://www.plantcultures.org/plants/sugar_cane_history_early_origins_and_spread.html |date=2009-07-06 }}. Plant Cultures (2004-11-18). Retrieved on 2013-07-29.</ref> |
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The gardens of the [[New Guinea Highlands]] are ancient, intensive [[permaculture]]s, adapted to high population densities, very high rainfalls (as high as 10,000 mm per year (400 in/yr)), earthquakes, hilly land, and occasional frost. Complex mulches, crop rotations and tillages are used in rotation on terraces with complex irrigation systems. Western agronomists still do not understand all of the practices, and it has been noted that native gardeners are as, or even more, successful than most scientific farmers in raising certain crops.<ref>Diamond, Jared. ''Collapse''. (German translation), Frankfurt 2005, p. 350.</ref> There is evidence that New Guinea gardeners invented crop rotation well before western Europeans.<ref>Diamond, Jared. ''Collapse''. (German translation), Frankfurt 2005, p. 351.</ref> A unique feature of New Guinea permaculture is the [[silviculture]] of ''[[Casuarina oligodon]]'', a tall, sturdy native [[Casuarinaceae|ironwood]] tree, suited to use for timber and fuel, with root nodules that fix nitrogen. [[Palynology|Pollen studies]] show that it was adopted during an ancient period of extreme deforestation. |
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In more recent millennia, another wave of people arrived on the shores of New Guinea. These were the [[Austronesian people]], who had spread down from [[Taiwan]], through the [[maritime Southeast Asia|South-east Asian archipelago]], colonising many of the islands on the way. The Austronesian people had technology and skills extremely well adapted to ocean voyaging and Austronesian language speaking people are present along much of the coastal areas and islands of New Guinea. These Austronesian migrants are considered the ancestors of most people in insular Southeast Asia, from [[Sumatra]] and [[Java]] to [[Borneo]] and [[Sulawesi]], as well as coastal new Guinea.<ref>{{Cite book |
In more recent millennia, another wave of people arrived on the shores of New Guinea. These were the [[Austronesian peoples|Austronesian people]], who had spread down from [[Taiwan]], through the [[maritime Southeast Asia|South-east Asian archipelago]], colonising many of the islands on the way. The Austronesian people had technology and skills extremely well adapted to ocean voyaging and Austronesian language speaking people are present along much of the coastal areas and islands of New Guinea. They also introduced pigs and [[New Guinea singing dog|dogs]]. These Austronesian migrants are considered the ancestors of most people in insular Southeast Asia, from [[Sumatra]] and [[Java]] to [[Borneo]] and [[Sulawesi]], as well as coastal new Guinea.<ref>{{Cite book |
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| title = Austronesian diaspora and the ethnogeneses of people in Indonesian archipelago:proceedings of the international symposium |
| title = Austronesian diaspora and the ethnogeneses of people in Indonesian archipelago:proceedings of the international symposium |
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| publisher =Yayasan Obor Indonesia |
| publisher =Yayasan Obor Indonesia |
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| isbn = 978-979-26-2436-6}}</ref> |
| isbn = 978-979-26-2436-6}}</ref> |
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===Precolonial history=== |
=== Precolonial history === |
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[[File:Picturesque New Guinea Plate XXXIX - Group and Native House, Mairy Pass.jpg|thumb|Group of natives at Mairy Pass. Mainland of British New Guinea in 1885.]] |
[[File:Picturesque New Guinea Plate XXXIX - Group and Native House, Mairy Pass.jpg|thumb|Group of natives at Mairy Pass. Mainland of British New Guinea in 1885.]] |
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[[File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Papoea' s op de Lorentzrivier TMnr 10009529.jpg|thumb|Papuans on the [[Lorentz River]], photographed during the third South New Guinea expedition in 1912–13 |
[[File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Papoea' s op de Lorentzrivier TMnr 10009529.jpg|thumb|Papuans on the [[Lorentz River]], photographed during the third South New Guinea expedition in 1912–13]] |
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The western part of the island was in contact with kingdoms in other parts of modern-day Indonesia. [[Negarakertagama]] mentioned the region of Wanin in eastern [[Nusantara]] as part of [[Majapahit]]'s tributary. This has been identified with the Onin Peninsula, part of the [[Bomberai Peninsula]] near the city of [[Fakfak]].<ref>{{Cite book |
The western part of the island was in contact with kingdoms in other parts of modern-day Indonesia. The ''[[Nagarakretagama|Negarakertagama]]'' mentioned the region of Wanin and Sran, in eastern [[Nusantara (archipelago)|Nusantara]] as part of [[Majapahit]]'s tributary. This 'Wanin' has been identified with the Onin Peninsula, part of the [[Bomberai Peninsula]] near the city of [[Fakfak]].<ref>{{Cite book |
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| last = Riana |
| last = Riana |
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| first =I Ketut |
| first =I Ketut |
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| first =Clive |
| first =Clive |
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| title =New Guinea: crossing boundaries and history |
| title =New Guinea: crossing boundaries and history |
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| publisher =University of Hawaii Press |
| publisher =[[University of Hawaii Press]] |
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| year =2003 |
| year =2003 |
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| page =270 |
| page =270 |
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| url =https://books.google.com/books?id=Sn6-x8lo3a8C |
| url =https://books.google.com/books?id=Sn6-x8lo3a8C |
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| isbn = 978-0-8248-2485-3}}</ref> The sultans of [[Tidore]], in [[Maluku Islands]], claimed sovereignty over various coastal parts of the island.<ref name=crocombe>{{Cite book |
| isbn = 978-0-8248-2485-3}}</ref> while '[[Kingdom of Kaimana|Sran]]' had been identified as region of [[Kaimana Regency|Kowiai]], just south of Onin peninsula.<ref name="Wanggai 2008"/> The sultans of [[Tidore]], in the [[Maluku Islands]], claimed sovereignty over various coastal parts of the island.<ref name=crocombe>{{Cite book |
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| last = Crocombe |
| last = Crocombe |
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| first =R. G. |
| first =R. G. |
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| page =281 |
| page =281 |
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| url =https://books.google.com/books?id=iDg9oAkwsXAC&pg=PA281 |
| url =https://books.google.com/books?id=iDg9oAkwsXAC&pg=PA281 |
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| isbn = 978-982-02-0388-4}}</ref> During Tidore's rule, the main exports of the island during this period were resins, spices, slaves and the highly priced feathers of the [[bird-of-paradise]].<ref name=crocombe/> [[Nuku Muhammad Amiruddin|Sultan Nuku]], one of the most famous Tidore sultans who rebelled against Dutch colonization, called himself "Sultan of Tidore and Papua",<ref name=nuku>{{Cite book |
| isbn = 978-982-02-0388-4}}</ref> During Tidore's rule, the main exports of the island during this period were resins, spices, slaves and the highly priced feathers of the [[bird-of-paradise]]. In a period of constant conflict called 'hongi wars', in which rival villages or kingdoms would invoke the name of Tidore Sultan, rightly, for punitive expeditions for not fulfilling their tributary obligations, or opportunitively for competitions over resources and prestige.<ref name=crocombe /> [[Nuku Muhammad Amiruddin|Sultan Nuku]], one of the most famous Tidore sultans who rebelled against Dutch colonization, called himself "Sultan of Tidore and Papua",<ref name=nuku>{{Cite book |
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| last = Satrio Widjojo |
| last = Satrio Widjojo |
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| first =Muridan |
| first =Muridan |
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| year =2009 |
| year =2009 |
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| url =https://books.google.com/books?id=3wsrumdSvrUC |
| url =https://books.google.com/books?id=3wsrumdSvrUC |
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| isbn = 978-90-04-17201-2}}</ref> during his revolt in 1780s. He commanded loyalty from both Moluccan and Papuan chiefs, especially those of [[Raja Ampat]] Islands. Following Tidore's |
| isbn = 978-90-04-17201-2}}</ref> during his revolt in 1780s. He commanded loyalty from both Moluccan and Papuan chiefs, especially those of [[Raja Ampat]] Islands, from his base in [[Gebe]]. Following Tidore's subjugation as Dutch tributary, much of the territory it claimed in western part of New Guinea came under Dutch rule as part of Dutch East Indies.<ref name=nuku /> |
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===European contact=== |
=== European contact === |
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The first European contact with New Guinea was by |
The first known European contact with New Guinea was by Portuguese and Spanish sailors in the 16th century. In 1526–27, Portuguese explorer [[Jorge de Menezes]] saw the western tip of New Guinea and named it ''ilhas dos Papuas''. In 1528, the Spanish navigator [[Álvaro de Saavedra Cerón|Álvaro de Saavedra]] also recorded its sighting when trying to return from [[Tidore]] to [[New Spain]]. In 1545, Spaniard [[Yñigo Ortiz de Retez|Íñigo Ortíz de Retes]] sailed along the north coast of New Guinea as far as the [[Mamberamo River]], near which he landed on 20 June, naming the island 'Nueva Guinea'.<ref>Collingridge, George The discovery of Australia, Sidney, 1895, pp.186–187</ref> The first known map of the island was made by F. Hoeiu in 1600<ref>{{Cite web |last=scheme=AGLSTERMS. AglsAgent; corporateName=State Library of New South Wales; address=1 Shakespeare Place |first=Sydney |date=June 7, 2016 |title=Mapping Papua New Guinea |url=https://www.sl.nsw.gov.au/stories/papua-new-guinea-forty-years-independence/mapping-papua-new-guinea |access-date=2024-05-14 |website=www.sl.nsw.gov.au}}</ref> and shows it as 'Nova Guinea'. In 1606, [[Luís Vaz de Torres]] explored the southern coast of New Guinea from [[Milne Bay]] to the [[Gulf of Papua]] including [[Orangerie Bay]], which he named ''Bahía de San Lorenzo''. His expedition also discovered [[Basilaki Island]] naming it ''Tierra de San Buenaventura'', which he claimed for Spain in July 1606.<ref name=Torres>Translation of Torres' report to the king in Collingridge, G. (1895) ''Discovery of Australia'' p.229-237. Golden Press Edition 1983, Gladesville, NSW. {{ISBN|0-85558-956-6}}</ref> On 18 October, his expedition reached the western part of the island in present-day Indonesia, and also claimed the territory for the King of Spain. |
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[[File:New Guinea (1884-1919).png|thumb|upright=1.15|left|New Guinea from 1884 to 1919. [[Netherlands|The Netherlands]] controlled the western half of New Guinea, [[German Empire|Germany]] the north-eastern part, and [[United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland|Britain]] the south-eastern part.]] |
[[File:New Guinea (1884-1919).png|thumb|upright=1.15|left|New Guinea from 1884 to 1919. [[Netherlands|The Netherlands]] controlled the western half of New Guinea, [[German Empire|Germany]] the north-eastern part, and [[United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland|Britain]] the south-eastern part.]] |
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A successive European claim occurred in 1828, when the Netherlands formally claimed the western half of the island as [[Netherlands New Guinea]]. Dutch colonial authority built [[Fort Du Bus]] an administrative and trading post established near Lobo, Triton Bay, but by 1835 had been abandoned.<ref name="SEJARAH RAT SRAN RAJA KOMISI KAIMANA (History of Rat Sran King of Kaimana) 2017 pp. 85–92">{{cite journal | last=Usmany | first=Desy Polla | title=SEJARAH RAT SRAN RAJA KOMISI KAIMANA (History of Rat Sran King of Kaimana) | journal=Jurnal Penelitian Arkeologi Papua Dan Papua Barat | volume=6 | issue=1 | date=2017-06-03 | issn=2580-9237 | doi=10.24832/papua.v6i1.45 | pages=85–92 | url=https://jurnalarkeologipapua.kemdikbud.go.id/index.php/jpap/article/view/45/0 | language=id | access-date=2021-04-24| doi-access=free }}</ref> Considering that New Guinea had little economic value for them, the Dutch promoted Tidore as suzerain of Papua. By 1849, Tidore's borders had been extended to the proximity of the current international border between Indonesia and [[Papua New Guinea]], as it formed extensive trade pact and custom of ''Uli-Siwa'' ( federation of nine ).<ref name="Swadling Wagner Laba p. 17 ">{{cite book | last1=Swadling | first1=Pamela | last2=Wagner | first2=Roy | last3=Laba | first3=Billai | title=Plumes from Paradise | publisher=Sydney University Press | date=2019-12-01 | isbn=978-1-74332-544-5 | doi=10.30722/sup.9781743325445 | page=17| s2cid=240917675 }}</ref> |
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A successive European claim occurred in 1828, when the Netherlands formally claimed the western half of the island as [[Netherlands New Guinea]]. In 1883, following a short-lived French annexation of [[New Ireland (island)|New Ireland]], the [[British colony]] of [[Queensland]] annexed south-eastern New Guinea. However, the Queensland government's superiors in the [[United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland|United Kingdom]] revoked the claim, and (formally) assumed direct responsibility in 1884, when [[German Empire|Germany]] claimed north-eastern New Guinea as the protectorate of [[German New Guinea]] (also called [[Kaiser-Wilhelmsland]]). |
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In 1883, following a short-lived French annexation of [[New Ireland (island)|New Ireland]], the British colony of [[Queensland]] annexed south-eastern New Guinea. However, the Queensland government's superiors in the [[United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland|United Kingdom]] revoked the claim, and (formally) assumed direct responsibility in 1884, when [[German Empire|Germany]] claimed north-eastern New Guinea as the protectorate of [[German New Guinea]] (also called [[Kaiser-Wilhelmsland]]). |
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The first Dutch government posts were established in 1898 and in 1902: Manokwari on the north coast, Fak-Fak in the west and Merauke in the south at the border with [[Territory of Papua|British New Guinea]]. The German, Dutch and British colonial administrators each attempted to suppress the still-widespread practices of inter-village warfare and [[headhunting]] within their respective territories.<ref>White, Osmar. ''Parliament of a Thousand Tribes'', Heinemann, London, 1965</ref> |
The first Dutch government posts were established in 1898 and in 1902: Manokwari on the north coast, Fak-Fak in the west and Merauke in the south at the border with [[Territory of Papua|British New Guinea]]. The German, Dutch and British colonial administrators each attempted to suppress the still-widespread practices of inter-village warfare and [[headhunting]] within their respective territories.<ref>White, Osmar. ''Parliament of a Thousand Tribes'', Heinemann, London, 1965</ref> |
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In 1905, the British government transferred some administrative responsibility over southeast New Guinea to Australia (which renamed the area "[[Territory of Papua]]"); and, in 1906, transferred all remaining responsibility to Australia. During [[World War I]], Australian forces seized German New Guinea, which in 1920 became the [[Territory of New Guinea]], to be administered by Australia under a [[League of Nations]] [[League of Nations mandate|mandate]]. The territories under Australian administration became collectively known as The Territories of Papua and New Guinea (until February 1942). |
In 1905, the British government transferred some administrative responsibility over southeast New Guinea to Australia (which renamed the area "[[Territory of Papua]]"); and, in 1906, transferred all remaining responsibility to Australia. During [[World War I]], Australian forces seized German New Guinea, which in 1920 became the [[Territory of New Guinea]], to be administered by Australia under a [[League of Nations]] [[League of Nations mandate|mandate]]. The territories under Australian administration became collectively known as The Territories of Papua and New Guinea (until February 1942). |
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Before about 1930, European maps showed the highlands as uninhabited forests. |
Before about 1930, European maps showed the highlands as uninhabited forests.<ref>Jackson, Michael. Minima ethnographica: Intersubjectivity and the anthropological project. University of Chicago Press, 1998, p. 109</ref> When first flown over by aircraft, numerous settlements with agricultural terraces and stockades were observed. The most startling discovery took place on 4 August 1938, when [[Richard Archbold]] discovered the [[Baliem Valley|Grand Valley]] of the Baliem River, which had 50,000 yet-undiscovered Stone Age farmers living in orderly villages. The people, known as the [[Dani people|Dani]], were the last society of its size to make first contact with the rest of the world.<ref>Diamond, Jared. ''[[The Third Chimpanzee]]''. Harper Collins, 1993</ref> A 1930 expedition led by the prospector Michael Lehay also encountered an indigenous group in the highlands. The inhabitants, believing themselves to be the only people in the world and, having never seen Europeans before, initially believed the explorers to be spirits of the dead due to the local belief that a person's skin turned white when they died and crossed into the land of the dead.<ref>Jackson, Michael. Minima ethnographica: Intersubjectivity and the anthropological project. University of Chicago Press, 1998, p. 110</ref> |
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[[File:1943 World War II Japanese Aeronautical Map of New Guinea - Geographicus - NewGuinea14-wwii-1943.jpg|thumb|left|A Japanese military map of New Guinea from 1943]] |
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===World War II=== |
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{{Main article|New Guinea campaign}} |
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=== World War II === |
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{{Main|New Guinea campaign}} |
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[[File:Aust soldiers Finisterres.jpg|thumb|Australian soldiers resting in the [[Finisterre Range]]s of New Guinea while en route to the front line]] |
[[File:Aust soldiers Finisterres.jpg|thumb|Australian soldiers resting in the [[Finisterre Range]]s of New Guinea while en route to the front line]] |
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Netherlands New Guinea and the Australian territories were invaded in 1942 by the [[Empire of Japan|Japanese]]. |
Netherlands New Guinea and the Australian territories (the eastern half ) were invaded in 1942 by the [[Empire of Japan|Japanese]]. The Netherlands were defeated by that stage and did not put up a fight, and the western section was not of any strategic value to either side, so they did not battle there. The Japanese invaded the north shore of the Australia territories and were aiming to move south and take the southern shore too. The highlands, northern and eastern parts of the island became key battlefields in the [[South West Pacific theatre of World War II|South West Pacific Theatre]] of [[World War II]]. Notable battles were for [[Battle of Port Moresby|Port Moresby]] (the naval battle is known as the [[Battle of the Coral Sea]]), [[Battle of Milne Bay|Milne Bay]] and for the [[Kokoda Track campaign|Kokoda track]]. Papuans often gave vital assistance to the [[Allies of World War II|Allies]], fighting alongside Australian troops, and carrying equipment and injured men across New Guinea. Approximately 216,000 Japanese, Australian and U.S. soldiers, sailors and airmen died during the New Guinea Campaign.<ref>"[http://ajrp.awm.gov.au/ajrp/remember.nsf/pages/NT000027A2 Remembering the war in New Guinea] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20091011112729/http://ajrp.awm.gov.au/ajrp/remember.nsf/pages/NT000027A2 |date=2009-10-11 }}". Australian War Memorial.</ref> |
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===Since World War II=== |
=== Since World War II === |
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{{ |
{{see also|Papua conflict}} |
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Following the return to civil administration after |
Following the return to civil administration after World War II, the Australian section was known as the Territory of Papua-New Guinea from 1945 to 1949 and then as [[Territory of Papua and New Guinea]]. Although the rest of the Dutch East Indies achieved independence as Indonesia on 27 December 1949, the Netherlands regained control of western New Guinea. |
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[[File:New Guinea.png|thumb|left|Map of New Guinea, with place names as used in English in the 1940s]] |
[[File:New Guinea.png|thumb|left|Map of New Guinea, with place names as used in English in the 1940s]] |
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During the 1950s, the Dutch government began to prepare |
During the 1950s, the Dutch government began to prepare Netherlands New Guinea for full independence and allowed elections in 1959; the partial elected [[New Guinea Council]] took office on 5 April 1961. The Council decided on the name of West Papua (''Papua Barat'') for the territory, along with an emblem, [[Morning Star flag|flag]], and [[Hai Tanahku Papua|anthem]] to complement those of the Netherlands. On 1 October 1962, after [[Operation Trikora|some military interventions]] and negotiations, the Dutch handed over the territory to the [[United Nations Temporary Executive Authority]], until 1 May 1963, when Indonesia took control. The territory was renamed West Irian ({{lang|id|Irian Barat}}) and then Irian Jaya. In 1969, Indonesia, under the 1962 [[New York Agreement]], organised a referendum named the [[Act of Free Choice]], in which the military hand picked Papuan tribal elders to vote for integration with Indonesia.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Jed Smith |date=April 25, 2017 |title=The West Papuan Warriors Are A Rugby League Team Trying To Stop A Genocide |url=https://www.vice.com/en/article/wnvgaz/the-west-papuan-warriors-are-a-rugby-league-team-trying-to-stop-a-genocide |website=[[Vice.com]] |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=NAJ Taylor |date=19 October 2011 |title=West Papua: A history of exploitation |url=https://www.aljazeera.com/opinions/2011/10/19/west-papua-a-history-of-exploitation |website=[[Al Jazeera English|Al Jazeera]] |language=en}}</ref> |
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There has been resistance to Indonesian integration and occupation,<ref name=celerier/> both through civil disobedience (such as |
There has been significant reported resistance to Indonesian integration and occupation,<ref name=celerier>Philippe Pataud Celerier, [http://mondediplo.com/2010/06/14indonesia Autonomy isn't independence; Indonesian democracy stops in Papua], [[Le Monde Diplomatique]], June 2010</ref> both through civil disobedience (such as publicly raising the Morning Star flag) and via the formation of the [[Organisasi Papua Merdeka]] (OPM, or Free Papua Movement) in 1965.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Natalia Laurensia Carmelia Yewen |date=2021-07-04 |title=For Indonesia's restive Papua region, will Biden's human rights focus bring any change? |url=https://www.scmp.com/week-asia/politics/article/3139577/indonesias-restive-papua-region-will-bidens-human-rights-focus |website=[[South China Morning Post]] |language=en}}</ref> [[Amnesty International]] has estimated more than 100,000 Papuans, one-sixth of the population, have died as a result of government-sponsored violence against West Papuans.<ref>[https://web.archive.org/web/20110615064843/http://www.usyd.edu.au/news/84.html?newsstoryid=651 Report claims secret genocide in Indonesia – University of Sydney]</ref> Reports published by [[TRT World]] and [[De Gruyter Oldenbourg]] have put the number of killed Papuans since the start of the conflict at roughly 500,000.<ref>{{Cite web |date=7 December 2018 |title=31 people have been killed in West Papua. Why? |url=https://www.trtworld.com/asia/31-people-have-been-killed-in-west-papua-why-22276 |website=[[TRT World]] |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book |last1=Antonopoulos |first1=Paul |url=https://www.degruyter.com/document/doi/10.1515/9783110659054-009/html?lang=en |title=9. Forgotten Genocide in Indonesia: Mass Violence, Resource Exploitation and Struggle for Independence in West Papua |last2=Cottle |first2=Drew |date=2019-08-05 |publisher=[[De Gruyter Oldenbourg]] |isbn=978-3-11-065905-4 |pages=167 |language=en |doi=10.1515/9783110659054-009|s2cid=202313147 }}</ref> |
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[[File:Westpapua.png|thumb|upright=1.1|[[Western New Guinea]] was formally annexed by Indonesia in 1969]] |
[[File:Westpapua.png|thumb|upright=1.1|[[Western New Guinea]] was formally annexed by Indonesia in 1969.]] |
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From 1971, the name Papua New Guinea was used for the Australian territory. On 16 September 1975, Australia granted full independence to [[Papua New Guinea]]. |
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In 2000, Irian Jaya was formally renamed "The Province of |
From 1971, the name Papua New Guinea was used for the Australian territory. On 16 September 1975, Australia granted full independence to Papua New Guinea. In 2000, Irian Jaya was formally renamed "The Province of Papua" and a Law on Special Autonomy was passed in 2001. The Law established a [[Papuan People's Assembly]] (MRP) with representatives of the different indigenous cultures of Papua. The MRP was empowered to protect the rights of Papuans, raise the status of women in Papua, and to ease religious tensions in Papua; [[block grants]] were given for the implementation of the Law as much as $266 million in 2004.<ref>{{Cite news|url=http://www.thejakartaglobe.com/columns/the-thinker-pending-in-papua/416800|title=The Thinker: Pending in Papua|first=Oktovianus|last=Pogau|date=2011-01-13|access-date=2011-04-18|publisher=[[Jakarta Globe]]}}</ref> The [[Court system of Indonesia|Indonesian courts]]' enforcement of the Law on Special Autonomy blocked further creation of subdivisions of Papua: although President [[Megawati Sukarnoputri]] was able to create a separate West Papua province in 2003 as a [[fait accompli]], plans for a third province on western New Guinea were blocked by the courts.<ref>King, 2004, p. 91</ref> Critics argue that the Indonesian government has been reluctant to establish or issue various government implementing regulations so that the legal provisions of special autonomy could be put into practice, and as a result special autonomy in Papua has "failed".<ref>{{Cite web |last=Jones |first=Rochelle |date=2015-10-22 |title=West Papuan women left isolated and beset by violence under Indonesian rule |url=http://www.theguardian.com/global-development/2015/oct/22/west-papua-women-indonesian-rule-violence |website=[[The Guardian]] |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Special Autonomy Issue (West Papua) |url=http://www.etan.org/issues/wpapua/1207spaut.htm |website=[[East Timor and Indonesia Action Network]]}}</ref> |
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In 2022, the Indonesian Government split Papuan Province into four provinces. In addition to [[Papua (province)|Papua Province]] proper (capital [[Jayapura]]), the three new provinces are [[South Papua]] (capital [[Merauke Regency|Merauke]]), [[Central Papua]] (capital [[Nabire Regency|Nabire]]) and [[Highland Papua]] (capital [[Jayawijaya Regency|Jayawijaya]]).<ref>{{Cite web |last= |date=2022-11-15 |title=Division of Papua province to promote development: ministry |url=https://en.antaranews.com/news/260489/division-of-papua-province-to-promote-development-ministry |access-date=2022-11-29 |website=Antara News}}</ref> Furthermore, [[Southwest Papua]] (capital [[Sorong]]) was split from [[West Papua (province)|West Papua]] (capital [[Manokwari]]).<ref>{{Cite web|date=17 November 2022|title=DPR Sahkan RUU Pembentukan Papua Barat Daya|url=https://www.kompas.id/baca/foto/2022/11/17/dpr-sahkan-ruu-pembentukan-papua-barat-daya|website=kompas.id|language=id|access-date=2022-11-17|archive-date=2022-11-17|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221117102647/https://www.kompas.id/baca/foto/2022/11/17/dpr-sahkan-ruu-pembentukan-papua-barat-daya|url-status=live}}</ref> |
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==Religions== |
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See [[Religion in Papua New Guinea]]. |
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The culture of [[Endemic warfare|inter-tribal warfare]] and animosity between the neighboring tribes are still present in New Guinea.<ref>{{cite news |title=Papua New Guinea massacre of women and children highlights poor policing, gun influx |url=https://www.abc.net.au/news/2019-07-10/png-tribal-massacre-poor-policing-weapons-influx-fuel-violence/11297136 |work=ABC News |date=11 July 2019}}</ref> |
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== Notes and references == |
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{{Reflist|2}} |
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== |
== Notes == |
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{{Notelist}} |
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== References == |
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{{reflist}} |
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== Further reading == |
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* [[Jared Diamond]], ''[[Guns, Germs, and Steel|Guns, Germs and Steel: A Short History of Everybody for the last 13,000 Years]]'', 1997. |
* [[Jared Diamond]], ''[[Guns, Germs, and Steel|Guns, Germs and Steel: A Short History of Everybody for the last 13,000 Years]]'', 1997. |
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* {{Cite web |title=New Guinea savannas and grasslands |url=https://wwf.panda.org/discover/knowledge_hub/where_we_work/new_guinea_forests/area_forests_new_guinea/new_guinea_forests_ecosystems/savanna_grasslands_new_guinea |website=[[World Wide Fund for Nature|WWF]] |language=en}} |
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== External links == |
== External links == |
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{{ |
{{Commons category|New Guinea}} |
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{{Wikivoyage|New Guinea}} |
{{Wikivoyage|New Guinea}} |
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* [http://www.papuaweb.org/gb/peta/sejarah/collingridge/ Facsimile of material from "The Discovery of New Guinea" by George Collingridge] |
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20101129025545/http://www.papuaweb.org/gb/peta/sejarah/collingridge/ Facsimile of material from "The Discovery of New Guinea" by George Collingridge] |
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* [https://web.archive.org/web/20060209023212/http://news.independent.co.uk/environment/article343740.ece Scientists hail discovery of hundreds of new species in remote New Guinea] |
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20060209023212/http://news.independent.co.uk/environment/article343740.ece Scientists hail discovery of hundreds of new species in remote New Guinea] |
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* [http://www.papuaweb.org PapuaWeb] |
* [http://www.papuaweb.org/ PapuaWeb official website] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210116121904/http://www.papuaweb.org/ |date=16 January 2021 }} |
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* [https://parasiticplants.siu.edu/NewGuineaLoranths/NewGuineaMap.html Detailed map of New Guinea] |
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* {{Cite NSRW|short=x|wstitle=New Guinea}} |
* {{Cite NSRW|short=x|wstitle=New Guinea}} |
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{{Culture of Oceania}} |
{{Culture of Oceania}} |
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{{World's largest islands}} |
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{{Portalbar|Islands|Indonesia|Papua New Guinea}} |
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{{Portal bar|New Guinea|Indonesia|Islands}} |
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{{Authority control}} |
{{Authority control}} |
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[[Category:New Guinea| ]] |
[[Category:New Guinea| ]] |
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[[Category:Islands of Oceania]] |
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[[Category:Islands of the Pacific Ocean]] |
[[Category:Islands of the Pacific Ocean]] |
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[[Category:Divided regions]] |
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[[Category:International islands]] |
[[Category:International islands]] |
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[[Category:Melanesia]] |
[[Category:Geography of Melanesia]] |
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[[Category:Islands of Indonesia]] |
[[Category:Islands of Indonesia]] |
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[[Category:Islands of Papua New Guinea]] |
[[Category:Islands of Papua New Guinea]] |
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[[Category:Former Spanish colonies]] |
Latest revision as of 19:58, 5 December 2024
Native name: Niugini Niu Gini Papua | |
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Geography | |
Location | Oceania |
Coordinates | 6°S 142°E / 6°S 142°E |
Archipelago | Indonesian Archipelago
Melanesia |
Area | 785,753 km2 (303,381 sq mi) |
Area rank | 2nd |
Highest elevation | 4,884 m (16024 ft) |
Highest point | Puncak Jaya |
Administration | |
Provinces | Papua Central Papua Highland Papua South Papua Southwest Papua West Papua |
Largest settlement | Jayapura (pop. 407,000) |
Provinces | |
Largest settlement | Port Moresby (pop. 402,000) |
Demographics | |
Population | 14,800,000 (2020) |
Pop. density | 18/km2 (47/sq mi) |
Ethnic groups | Papuan and others (Austronesians and Melanesians) |
New Guinea (Tok Pisin: Niugini; Hiri Motu: Niu Gini; Indonesian: Papua, fossilized Nugini,[a] or historically Irian) is the world's second-largest island, with an area of 785,753 km2 (303,381 sq mi). Located in Melanesia in the southwestern Pacific Ocean, the island is separated from Australia by the 150-kilometre (81-nautical-mile; 93-mile) wide Torres Strait, though both landmasses lie on the same continental shelf, and were united during episodes of low sea level in the Pleistocene glaciations as the combined landmass of Sahul. Numerous smaller islands are located to the west and east. The island's name was given by Spanish explorer Yñigo Ortiz de Retez during his maritime expedition of 1545 due to the resemblance of the indigenous peoples of the island to those in the African region of Guinea.[1]
The eastern half of the island is the major land mass of the nation of Papua New Guinea. The western half, known as Western New Guinea,[2] forms a part of Indonesia and is organized as the provinces of Papua, Central Papua, Highland Papua, South Papua, Southwest Papua, and West Papua. The two major cities on the island are Port Moresby and Jayapura.
Names
[edit]The island has been known by various names:
The name Papua was used to refer to parts of the island before contact with the West.[3] Its etymology is unclear;[3] one theory states that it derived from Tidore, the language used by the Sultanate of Tidore.[1] An expedition by the Sultan of Tidore, together with Sahmardan, the Sangaji of Patani, and the Papuan Gurabesi, managed to conquer some areas in New Guinea, which was then reorganised to form Korano Ngaruha ("Four Kings") or Raja Ampat, Papoua Gam Sio (lit. "The Papua Nine Negeri"), and Mafor Soa Raha (lit. The Mafor "Four Soa"). The name comes from the words papo ("to unite") and ua (negation), which means "not united", i.e. an outlying possession of Tidore.[1][4][5]
Anton Ploeg reports that the word papua is often said to be derived from the Malay word papua or pua-pua, meaning "frizzly-haired", referring to the very curly hair of the island's inhabitants.[6] However Sollewijn Gelpke in 1993 considered this unlikely as it had been used earlier, and he instead derived it from the Biak phrase sup i babwa, which means "the land below [the sunset]", and refers to the Raja Ampat Islands.
When Portuguese and Spanish explorers arrived via the Spice Islands, they also used the name Papua.[1][7] However, Westerners, beginning with Spanish explorer Yñigo Ortiz de Retez in 1545, used the name New Guinea, due to the resemblance between the indigenous peoples of the island and Africans of the Guinea region.[1] The name is one of several toponyms sharing similar etymologies, ultimately meaning "land of the blacks" or similar meanings.
The Dutch, who arrived later under Jacob Le Maire and Willem Schouten, called it Schouten island. They later used this name only to refer to islands off the north coast of Papua proper, the Schouten Islands or Biak Island. When the Dutch colonized the main island as part of the Dutch East Indies, they called it Nieuw Guinea.[1]
The name Irian was used in the Indonesian language to refer to the island and Indonesian province, as Irian Barat (West Irian) Province and later Irian Jaya Province. The name Irian was suggested during a tribal committee meeting in Tobati, Jayapura, formed by Soegoro Atmoprasodjo under governor JP van Eechoed, to decide on a new name because of the negative association of Papua. Frans Kaisiepo, the committee leader, suggested the name from Mansren Koreri myths, Iri-an from the Biak language of Biak Island, meaning "hot land" (referring to the climate), but also from Iryan which means heated process as a metaphor for a land that is entering a new era. In Serui Iri-an (lit. "land-nation") means "pillar of nation", while in Merauke Iri-an (lit. "placed higher-nation") means "rising spirit" or "to rise".[5][8] The name was promoted in 1945 by Marcus Kaisiepo, brother of Frans Kaisiepo.[3] The name was politicized later by Corinus Krey,[9] Marthen Indey, Silas Papare, and others with the Indonesian backronym Ikut Republik Indonesia Anti Nederland ("Join the Republic of Indonesia Oppose the Netherlands").[10][5] Irian was used somewhat in 1972.[11] The name was used until 2001, when Papua was again used for the island and the province. The name Irian, which was originally favored by natives, is now considered to be a name imposed by the authority of Jakarta.[3]
Geography
[edit]New Guinea is an island to the north of the Australian mainland, south of the equator. It is isolated by the Arafura Sea to the west, and the Torres Strait and Coral Sea to the east. Sometimes considered to be the easternmost island of the Indonesian archipelago, it lies north of Australia's Top End, the Gulf of Carpentaria and Cape York Peninsula, and west of the Bismarck Archipelago and the Solomon Islands archipelago.
Politically, the western half of the island comprises six provinces of Indonesia: Papua, Central Papua, Highland Papua, South Papua, West Papua and Southwest Papua. The eastern half forms the mainland of the country of Papua New Guinea.
The shape of New Guinea is often compared to that of a bird-of-paradise (indigenous to the island), and this results in the usual names for the two extremes of the island: the Bird's Head Peninsula in the northwest (Vogelkop in Dutch, Kepala Burung in Indonesian; also known as the Doberai Peninsula), and the Bird's Tail Peninsula in the southeast (also known as the Papuan Peninsula).
A spine of east–west mountains, the New Guinea Highlands, dominates the geography of New Guinea, stretching over 1,600 km (1,000 mi) across the island, with many mountains over 4,000 m (13,100 ft). The western half of the island contains the highest mountains in Oceania, with its highest point, Puncak Jaya, reaching an elevation of 4,884 m (16,023 ft). The tree line is around 4,000 m (13,100 ft) elevation, and the tallest peaks contain equatorial glaciers—which have been retreating since at least 1936.[12][13][14] Various other smaller mountain ranges occur both north and west of the central ranges. Except in high elevations, most areas possess a warm humid climate throughout the year, with some seasonal variation associated with the northeast monsoon season.
Another major habitat feature is the vast southern and northern lowlands. Stretching for hundreds of kilometres, these include lowland rainforests, extensive wetlands, savanna grasslands, and some of the largest expanses of mangrove forest in the world. The southern lowlands are the site of Lorentz National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The northern lowlands are drained principally by the Mamberamo River and its tributaries on the western side, and by the Sepik on the eastern side. The more extensive southern lowlands are drained by a larger number of rivers, principally the Digul in the west and the Fly in the east. The largest island offshore, Dolak, lies near the Digul estuary, separated by a strait so narrow it has been named a "creek".
New Guinea contains many of the world's ecosystem types: glacial, alpine tundra, savanna, montane and lowland rainforest, mangroves, wetlands, lake and river ecosystems, seagrasses, and some of the richest coral reefs on the planet.
The entire length of the New Guinea Highlands system passes through New Guinea as a vast watershed. The northern rivers flow into the Pacific Ocean, the southern rivers into the Arafura Sea and the Gulf of Papua. On the north side, the largest rivers are the Mamberamo, Sepik and Ramu. Mamberamo was born from the confluence of two large inland rivers. Tariku comes from the west to the east and Taritatu from the east. These rivers meander through swamps with huge internal descents and then merge. The Mamberamo thus formed reaches the ocean by breaking through the Coastal Mountains. Mamberamo River is navigable to Marine Falls. The Sepik is a much more important river. Similarly, it collects water from a spacious pool. It is 1,100 kilometers from the Victor Emanuel Range to the estuary, making it the longest river in New Guinea. The winding, muddy, sluggish river can be navigated for 500 km. Ramu is a 650 km long river. Its lower section is navigable, but its upper flow is high-falling, fast-flowing. The energy of the river is used by a power plant near the city of Kainantu.
On the south side, the most significant rivers are Pulau, Digul, Fly, Kikori and Purari. The largest river in the western part of the island is Digul. It originates from the Star Mountains, which rise to an altitude of 4,700 m. The coastal plain is bordered by a swamp world hundreds of kilometers wide. Digul is the main transport route to the fertile hills and mountains within the island. The river Fly is born near the eastern branches of the Digul. It is named after one of the ships of the English Royal Fleet, which first sailed into the mouth of the river in 1845. The total length of the river is 1,050 km. Smaller boats can sail 900 km on the river. The estuary section, which decomposes into islands, is 70 km wide. The tide of the sea can have an effect of up to 300 kilometers. Strickland, a tributary of the Fly, reaches the Papuan Plain through wild gorges. Fly and Strickland together form the largest river in New Guinea. The many rivers flowing into the Gulf of Papua form a single delta complex. The rivers of the island are extremely rich in water due to the annual rainfall of 2,000–10,000 mm. According to a modest calculation, the New Guinea River carries about 1,500 km3/a (48,000 m3/s) of water into the sea. Fly alone carries more water 238 km3/a (7,500 m3/s) than all the rivers in Australia combined.[15]
Relation to surroundings
[edit]The island of New Guinea lies to the east of the Malay Archipelago, with which it is sometimes included as part of a greater Indo-Australian Archipelago.[16] Geologically it is a part of the same tectonic plate as Australia. When world sea levels were low, the two shared shorelines (which now lie 100 to 140 metres below sea level),[17] and combined with lands now inundated into the tectonic continent of Sahul,[18][19] also known as Greater Australia.[20] The two landmasses became separated when the area now known as the Torres Strait flooded after the end of the last glacial period.
Anthropologically, New Guinea is considered part of Melanesia.[21]
New Guinea is differentiated from its drier, flatter,[22] and less fertile[23][24] southern counterpart, Australia, by its much higher rainfall and its active volcanic geology. Yet the two land masses share a similar animal fauna, with marsupials, including wallabies and possums, and the egg-laying monotreme, the echidna. Other than bats and some two dozen indigenous rodent genera,[25] there are no pre-human indigenous placental mammals. Pigs, several additional species of rats, and the ancestor of the New Guinea singing dog were introduced with human colonization.
Prior to the 1970s, archaeologists called the single Pleistocene landmass by the name Australasia,[18] although this word is most often used for a wider region that includes lands, such as New Zealand, which are not on the same continental shelf. In the early 1970s, they introduced the term Greater Australia for the Pleistocene continent.[18] Then, at a 1975 conference and consequent publication,[19] they extended the name Sahul from its previous use for just the Sahul Shelf to cover the continent.[18]
Political divisions
[edit]The island of New Guinea is divided politically into roughly equal halves across a north–south line:
- The western portion of the island located west of 141°E longitude (except for a small section of territory to the east of the Fly River which belongs to Papua New Guinea) was formerly a Dutch colony, part of the Dutch East Indies. After the West New Guinea dispute it is now six Indonesian provinces:
- West Papua with Manokwari as its capital.
- Papua with the city of Jayapura as its capital.
- Highland Papua with Jayawijaya Regency as its capital.
- Central Papua with Nabire Regency as its capital.
- South Papua with Merauke Regency as its capital.
- Southwest Papua with Sorong as its capital
- The eastern part forms the mainland of Papua New Guinea, which has been an independent country since 1975. It was formerly the Territory of Papua and New Guinea governed by Australia, consisting of the Trust Territory of New Guinea (northeastern quarter, formerly German New Guinea), and the Territory of Papua (southeastern quarter). Three of Papua New Guinea's four regions are parts of New Guinea island:
- Southern, consisting of Western, Gulf, Central, Oro (Northern) and Milne Bay provinces.
- Highlands, consisting of Southern Highlands, Hela Province, Jiwaka Province, Enga Province, Western Highlands, Simbu and Eastern Highlands provinces.
- Momase, consisting of Morobe, Madang, East Sepik and Sandaun (West Sepik) provinces.
Demographics
[edit]10 largest cities and towns in New Guinea (Papua) by population
[edit]- Provincial capital
- National capital
Rank | City | Population | Country | Province |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Jayapura | 414,862 | Indonesia | Papua |
2 | Port Moresby | 383,000 | Papua New Guinea | NCD |
3 | Sorong | 294,978 | Indonesia | Southwest Papua |
4 | Timika | 142,909 | Indonesia | Central Papua |
5 | Manokwari | 107,325 | Indonesia | West Papua |
6 | Lae | 104,000 | Papua New Guinea | Morobe |
7 | Merauke | 102,351 | Indonesia | South Papua |
8 | Nabire | 99,848 | Indonesia | Central Papua |
9 | Sentani | 71,174 | Indonesia | Papua |
10 | Wamena | 66,080 | Indonesia | Highland Papua |
People
[edit]The current population of the island of New Guinea is about fifteen million. Archaeological evidence indicates that humans may have inhabited the island continuously since 50,000 BCE,[26][27] and first settlement possibly dating back to 60,000 years ago has been proposed. The island is presently populated by almost a thousand different tribal groups and a near-equivalent number of separate languages, which makes New Guinea the most linguistically diverse area in the world. Ethnologue's 14th edition lists 826 languages of Papua New Guinea and 257 languages of Western New Guinea, total 1073 languages, with 12 languages overlapping.[clarification needed] They can be divided into two groups, the Austronesian languages, and all the others placed in the catch-all category of Papuan languages, most of which are unrelated.[28]
The separation is not merely linguistic; warfare among societies was a factor in the evolution of the men's house: separate housing for groups of adult men, away from the single-family houses of women and children.[citation needed] Pig-based trade between groups and pig-based feasts form a common tradition with the other peoples of southeast Asia and Oceania. Most Papuan societies practice agriculture, supplemented by hunting and gathering.
Current evidence indicates that the Papuans (who constitute the majority of the island's peoples) are descended from the earliest human inhabitants of New Guinea. These original inhabitants first arrived in New Guinea at a time around the Last Glacial Maximum (c. 21,000 years ago) when the island was connected to the Australian continent via a land bridge, forming the landmass of Sahul. These peoples had made the (shortened) sea-crossing from the islands of Wallacea and Sundaland (the present Malay Archipelago) by at least 40,000 years ago.
The ancestral Austronesian peoples are believed to have arrived considerably later, approximately 3,500 years ago, as part of a gradual seafaring migration from Southeast Asia, possibly originating in Taiwan. Austronesian-speaking peoples colonized many of the offshore islands to the north and east of New Guinea, such as New Ireland and New Britain, with settlements also on the coastal fringes of the main island in places. Human habitation of New Guinea over tens of thousands of years has led to a great deal of diversity, which was further increased by the later arrival of the Austronesians and the more recent history of European and Asian settlement through events like transmigration.
Large areas of New Guinea are yet to be explored by scientists and anthropologists. The Indonesian province of West Papua is home to an estimated 44 uncontacted tribal groups.[29]
Biodiversity and ecology
[edit]With some 786,000 km2 of tropical land—less than one-half of one percent (0.5%) of the Earth's surface—New Guinea has an immense biodiversity, containing between 5 and 10 percent of the total species on the planet. This percentage is about the same amount as that found in the United States or Australia. A high percentage of New Guinea's species are endemic, and thousands are still unknown to science: probably well over 200,000 species of insect, between 11,000 and 20,000 plant species, and over 650 resident bird species. Most of these species are shared, at least in their origin, with the continent of Australia, which was until fairly recent geological times part of the same landmass (see Australia-New Guinea for an overview). The island is so large that it is considered 'nearly a continent' in terms of its biological distinctiveness.
In the period from 1998 to 2008, conservationists identified 1,060 new species in New Guinea, including 218 plants, 43 reptiles, 12 mammals, 580 invertebrates, 134 amphibians, 2 birds and 71 fish.[30] Between 2011 and 2017, researchers described 465 previously undocumented plant species in New Guinea.[31] As of 2019, the Indonesian portion of New Guinea and the Maluku Islands is estimated to have 9,518 species of vascular plants, of which 4,380 are endemic. In 2020, an international study conducted by a team of 99 experts cataloged 13,634 species representing 1,742 genera and 264 families of vascular plants for New Guinea and its associated islands (Aru Islands, Bismarck Archipelago, D'Entrecasteaux Islands, Louisiade Archipelago), making it the world's most floristically diverse island, surpassing Madagascar (11,488), Borneo (11,165), Java (4,598), and the Philippines (9,432).[32]
Biogeographically, New Guinea is part of Australasia rather than the Indomalayan realm, although New Guinea's flora has many more affinities with Asia than its fauna, which is overwhelmingly Australian. Botanically, New Guinea is considered part of Malesia, a floristic region that extends from the Malay Peninsula across Indonesia to New Guinea and the East Melanesian Islands. The flora of New Guinea is a mixture of many tropical rainforest species with origins in Asia, together with typically Australasian flora. Typical Southern Hemisphere flora include the conifers Podocarpus and the rainforest emergents Araucaria and Agathis, as well as tree ferns and several species of Eucalyptus.
New Guinea has 284 species and six orders of mammals: monotremes, three orders of marsupials, rodents and bats; 195 of the mammal species (69%) are endemic. New Guinea has 578 species of breeding birds, of which 324 species are endemic. The island's frogs are one of the most poorly known vertebrate groups, totalling 282 species, but this number is expected to double or even triple when all species have been documented. New Guinea has a rich diversity of coral life and 1,200 species of fish have been found. Also about 600 species of reef-building coral—the latter equal to 75 percent of the world's known total. The entire coral area covers 18 million hectares off a peninsula in northwest New Guinea.
As of 2020, the Western portion of New Guinea, Papua and West Papua, accounts for 54% of the island's primary forest and about 51% of the island's total tree cover, according to satellite data.[33]
Ecoregions
[edit]Terrestrial
[edit]According to the WWF, New Guinea can be divided into twelve terrestrial ecoregions:[34]
- Central Range montane rain forests
- Central Range sub-alpine grasslands
- Huon Peninsula montane rain forests
- New Guinea mangroves
- Northern New Guinea lowland rain and freshwater swamp forests
- Northern New Guinea montane rain forests
- Southeastern Papuan rain forests
- Southern New Guinea freshwater swamp forests
- Southern New Guinea lowland rain forests
- Trans-Fly savanna and grasslands
- Vogelkop montane rain forests
- Vogelkop-Aru lowland rain forests
Freshwater
[edit]The WWF and Nature Conservancy divide New Guinea into five freshwater ecoregions:[35]
- Vogelkop–Bomberai
- New Guinea North Coast
- New Guinea Central Mountains
- Southwest New Guinea–Trans-Fly Lowland
- Papuan Peninsula
Marine
[edit]The WWF and Nature Conservancy identify several marine ecoregions in the seas bordering New Guinea:[36]
- Papua
- Arafura Sea
- Bismarck Sea
- Solomon Sea
- Southeast Papua New Guinea
- Gulf of Papua
History
[edit]Early history
[edit]The first inhabitants Indigenous people of New Guinea, from whom the Papuan people are probably descended, adapted to the range of ecologies and, in time, developed one of the earliest known agricultures. Remains of this agricultural system, in the form of ancient irrigation systems in the highlands of Papua New Guinea, are being studied by archaeologists. Research indicates that the highlands were an early and independent center of agriculture, with evidence of irrigation going back at least 10,000 years.[37] Sugarcane was cultivated in New Guinea around 6000 BCE.[38]
The gardens of the New Guinea Highlands are ancient, intensive permacultures, adapted to high population densities, very high rainfalls (as high as 10,000 mm per year (400 in/yr)), earthquakes, hilly land, and occasional frost. Complex mulches, crop rotations and tillages are used in rotation on terraces with complex irrigation systems. Western agronomists still do not understand all of the practices, and it has been noted that native gardeners are as, or even more, successful than most scientific farmers in raising certain crops.[39] There is evidence that New Guinea gardeners invented crop rotation well before western Europeans.[40] A unique feature of New Guinea permaculture is the silviculture of Casuarina oligodon, a tall, sturdy native ironwood tree, suited to use for timber and fuel, with root nodules that fix nitrogen. Pollen studies show that it was adopted during an ancient period of extreme deforestation.
In more recent millennia, another wave of people arrived on the shores of New Guinea. These were the Austronesian people, who had spread down from Taiwan, through the South-east Asian archipelago, colonising many of the islands on the way. The Austronesian people had technology and skills extremely well adapted to ocean voyaging and Austronesian language speaking people are present along much of the coastal areas and islands of New Guinea. They also introduced pigs and dogs. These Austronesian migrants are considered the ancestors of most people in insular Southeast Asia, from Sumatra and Java to Borneo and Sulawesi, as well as coastal new Guinea.[41]
Precolonial history
[edit]The western part of the island was in contact with kingdoms in other parts of modern-day Indonesia. The Negarakertagama mentioned the region of Wanin and Sran, in eastern Nusantara as part of Majapahit's tributary. This 'Wanin' has been identified with the Onin Peninsula, part of the Bomberai Peninsula near the city of Fakfak.[42][43] while 'Sran' had been identified as region of Kowiai, just south of Onin peninsula.[5] The sultans of Tidore, in the Maluku Islands, claimed sovereignty over various coastal parts of the island.[44] During Tidore's rule, the main exports of the island during this period were resins, spices, slaves and the highly priced feathers of the bird-of-paradise. In a period of constant conflict called 'hongi wars', in which rival villages or kingdoms would invoke the name of Tidore Sultan, rightly, for punitive expeditions for not fulfilling their tributary obligations, or opportunitively for competitions over resources and prestige.[44] Sultan Nuku, one of the most famous Tidore sultans who rebelled against Dutch colonization, called himself "Sultan of Tidore and Papua",[45] during his revolt in 1780s. He commanded loyalty from both Moluccan and Papuan chiefs, especially those of Raja Ampat Islands, from his base in Gebe. Following Tidore's subjugation as Dutch tributary, much of the territory it claimed in western part of New Guinea came under Dutch rule as part of Dutch East Indies.[45]
European contact
[edit]The first known European contact with New Guinea was by Portuguese and Spanish sailors in the 16th century. In 1526–27, Portuguese explorer Jorge de Menezes saw the western tip of New Guinea and named it ilhas dos Papuas. In 1528, the Spanish navigator Álvaro de Saavedra also recorded its sighting when trying to return from Tidore to New Spain. In 1545, Spaniard Íñigo Ortíz de Retes sailed along the north coast of New Guinea as far as the Mamberamo River, near which he landed on 20 June, naming the island 'Nueva Guinea'.[46] The first known map of the island was made by F. Hoeiu in 1600[47] and shows it as 'Nova Guinea'. In 1606, Luís Vaz de Torres explored the southern coast of New Guinea from Milne Bay to the Gulf of Papua including Orangerie Bay, which he named Bahía de San Lorenzo. His expedition also discovered Basilaki Island naming it Tierra de San Buenaventura, which he claimed for Spain in July 1606.[48] On 18 October, his expedition reached the western part of the island in present-day Indonesia, and also claimed the territory for the King of Spain.
A successive European claim occurred in 1828, when the Netherlands formally claimed the western half of the island as Netherlands New Guinea. Dutch colonial authority built Fort Du Bus an administrative and trading post established near Lobo, Triton Bay, but by 1835 had been abandoned.[49] Considering that New Guinea had little economic value for them, the Dutch promoted Tidore as suzerain of Papua. By 1849, Tidore's borders had been extended to the proximity of the current international border between Indonesia and Papua New Guinea, as it formed extensive trade pact and custom of Uli-Siwa ( federation of nine ).[50]
In 1883, following a short-lived French annexation of New Ireland, the British colony of Queensland annexed south-eastern New Guinea. However, the Queensland government's superiors in the United Kingdom revoked the claim, and (formally) assumed direct responsibility in 1884, when Germany claimed north-eastern New Guinea as the protectorate of German New Guinea (also called Kaiser-Wilhelmsland).
The first Dutch government posts were established in 1898 and in 1902: Manokwari on the north coast, Fak-Fak in the west and Merauke in the south at the border with British New Guinea. The German, Dutch and British colonial administrators each attempted to suppress the still-widespread practices of inter-village warfare and headhunting within their respective territories.[51]
In 1905, the British government transferred some administrative responsibility over southeast New Guinea to Australia (which renamed the area "Territory of Papua"); and, in 1906, transferred all remaining responsibility to Australia. During World War I, Australian forces seized German New Guinea, which in 1920 became the Territory of New Guinea, to be administered by Australia under a League of Nations mandate. The territories under Australian administration became collectively known as The Territories of Papua and New Guinea (until February 1942).
Before about 1930, European maps showed the highlands as uninhabited forests.[52] When first flown over by aircraft, numerous settlements with agricultural terraces and stockades were observed. The most startling discovery took place on 4 August 1938, when Richard Archbold discovered the Grand Valley of the Baliem River, which had 50,000 yet-undiscovered Stone Age farmers living in orderly villages. The people, known as the Dani, were the last society of its size to make first contact with the rest of the world.[53] A 1930 expedition led by the prospector Michael Lehay also encountered an indigenous group in the highlands. The inhabitants, believing themselves to be the only people in the world and, having never seen Europeans before, initially believed the explorers to be spirits of the dead due to the local belief that a person's skin turned white when they died and crossed into the land of the dead.[54]
World War II
[edit]Netherlands New Guinea and the Australian territories (the eastern half ) were invaded in 1942 by the Japanese. The Netherlands were defeated by that stage and did not put up a fight, and the western section was not of any strategic value to either side, so they did not battle there. The Japanese invaded the north shore of the Australia territories and were aiming to move south and take the southern shore too. The highlands, northern and eastern parts of the island became key battlefields in the South West Pacific Theatre of World War II. Notable battles were for Port Moresby (the naval battle is known as the Battle of the Coral Sea), Milne Bay and for the Kokoda track. Papuans often gave vital assistance to the Allies, fighting alongside Australian troops, and carrying equipment and injured men across New Guinea. Approximately 216,000 Japanese, Australian and U.S. soldiers, sailors and airmen died during the New Guinea Campaign.[55]
Since World War II
[edit]Following the return to civil administration after World War II, the Australian section was known as the Territory of Papua-New Guinea from 1945 to 1949 and then as Territory of Papua and New Guinea. Although the rest of the Dutch East Indies achieved independence as Indonesia on 27 December 1949, the Netherlands regained control of western New Guinea.
During the 1950s, the Dutch government began to prepare Netherlands New Guinea for full independence and allowed elections in 1959; the partial elected New Guinea Council took office on 5 April 1961. The Council decided on the name of West Papua (Papua Barat) for the territory, along with an emblem, flag, and anthem to complement those of the Netherlands. On 1 October 1962, after some military interventions and negotiations, the Dutch handed over the territory to the United Nations Temporary Executive Authority, until 1 May 1963, when Indonesia took control. The territory was renamed West Irian (Irian Barat) and then Irian Jaya. In 1969, Indonesia, under the 1962 New York Agreement, organised a referendum named the Act of Free Choice, in which the military hand picked Papuan tribal elders to vote for integration with Indonesia.[56][57]
There has been significant reported resistance to Indonesian integration and occupation,[58] both through civil disobedience (such as publicly raising the Morning Star flag) and via the formation of the Organisasi Papua Merdeka (OPM, or Free Papua Movement) in 1965.[59] Amnesty International has estimated more than 100,000 Papuans, one-sixth of the population, have died as a result of government-sponsored violence against West Papuans.[60] Reports published by TRT World and De Gruyter Oldenbourg have put the number of killed Papuans since the start of the conflict at roughly 500,000.[61][62]
From 1971, the name Papua New Guinea was used for the Australian territory. On 16 September 1975, Australia granted full independence to Papua New Guinea. In 2000, Irian Jaya was formally renamed "The Province of Papua" and a Law on Special Autonomy was passed in 2001. The Law established a Papuan People's Assembly (MRP) with representatives of the different indigenous cultures of Papua. The MRP was empowered to protect the rights of Papuans, raise the status of women in Papua, and to ease religious tensions in Papua; block grants were given for the implementation of the Law as much as $266 million in 2004.[63] The Indonesian courts' enforcement of the Law on Special Autonomy blocked further creation of subdivisions of Papua: although President Megawati Sukarnoputri was able to create a separate West Papua province in 2003 as a fait accompli, plans for a third province on western New Guinea were blocked by the courts.[64] Critics argue that the Indonesian government has been reluctant to establish or issue various government implementing regulations so that the legal provisions of special autonomy could be put into practice, and as a result special autonomy in Papua has "failed".[65][66]
In 2022, the Indonesian Government split Papuan Province into four provinces. In addition to Papua Province proper (capital Jayapura), the three new provinces are South Papua (capital Merauke), Central Papua (capital Nabire) and Highland Papua (capital Jayawijaya).[67] Furthermore, Southwest Papua (capital Sorong) was split from West Papua (capital Manokwari).[68]
The culture of inter-tribal warfare and animosity between the neighboring tribes are still present in New Guinea.[69]
Notes
[edit]- ^ The alternative name Nugini is generally only used as part of the country name of Papua New Guinea, Papua Nugini, and of the names of the historical territories of Dutch New Guinea (Nugini Belanda), German New Guinea (Nugini Jerman), and Territory of New Guinea (Teritori Nugini). Thus, Nugini is effectively a fossil word.
References
[edit]- ^ a b c d e f Bilveer Singh (2008). Papua: geopolitics and the quest for nationhood. Transaction Publishers. p. 26. ISBN 978-1-4128-1206-1.
- ^ "West Papua – promoting human rights, peace and democracy in Indonesia". Tapol. Archived from the original on 9 February 2020.
- ^ a b c d Pickell, David; Kal Müller (2002). Between the tides: a fascinating journey among the Kamoro of New Guinea. Tuttle Publishing. p. 153. ISBN 978-0-7946-0072-3.
- ^ Tarmidzy Thamrin (2001). Boven Digoel: lambang perlawanan terhadap kolonialisme (in Indonesian). Ciscom-Cottage. p. 424.
- ^ a b c d Wanggai, Tony V.M. (2008). Rekonstruksi Sejarah Islam di Tanah Papua (PDF) (Thesis) (in Indonesian). UIN Syarif Hidayatullah. Retrieved 30 January 2022.
- ^ Ploeg, Anton (2002). "'De Papoea' What's in a name?". Asia Pacific Journal of Anthropology. 3 (1): 75–101. doi:10.1080/14442210210001706216. S2CID 145344026.
- ^ Sollewijn Gelpke, J.H.F. (1993). "On the origin of the name Papua". Bijdragen tot de Taal-, Land- en Volkenkunde / Journal of the Humanities and Social Sciences of Southeast Asia. 149 (2). Brill: 318–332. doi:10.1163/22134379-90003129. ISSN 0006-2294.
- ^ Bilveer Singh (2008). Papua: geopolitics and the quest for nationhood. Transaction Publishers. p. 26. ISBN 978-1-4128-1206-1.
- ^ Ramdhani, Jabbar (15 February 2021). "Mengenal Corinus Krey, Pejuang Pembebasan Papua dan Pencetus Nama Irian". detiknews (in Indonesian). Retrieved 15 January 2023.
- ^ Ayuwuragil, Kustin. "Frans Kaisiepo dan 'Ikut Republik Indonesia Anti Nederland'". nasional (in Indonesian). Retrieved 25 February 2021.
- ^ Crawford, Don (1972). Miracles In Indonesia. United States: Tyndale House Publishers. p. 6. ISBN 9780842343503.
- ^ Prentice, M.L. and G.S. Hope (2006). "Climate of Papua". Ch. 2.3 in Marshall, A.J., and Beehler, B.M. (eds.). The Ecology of Papua. Singapore: Periplus Editions. The authors note that "The magnitude of the recession of the Carstensz Glaciers, its causes, and its implications for local, regional, and global climate change are only qualitatively known. The recession of the Carstensz Glaciers from ~11 km2 in 1942 to 2.4 km2 by 2000 represents about an 80% decrease in ice area."
- ^ "Kincaid and Kline, "Retreat of the Irian Jaya Glaciers from 2000 to 2002 as Measured from IKONOS Satellite Images", paper presented at 61st Eastern Snow Conference, Portland, Maine, 2004" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 17 May 2017. Retrieved 2 February 2010.
- ^ Recent Global Glacier Retreat Overview
- ^ Dénes, Balázs (1978). Ausztrália, Óceánia, Antarktisz. Gondolat. pp. 286–287. ISBN 963-280-677-8.
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{{cite web}}
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Further reading
[edit]- Jared Diamond, Guns, Germs and Steel: A Short History of Everybody for the last 13,000 Years, 1997.
- "New Guinea savannas and grasslands". WWF.