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The Image illustrates the different style of Sabai Wrapping is based from the questionable basis and not from any well-researched document. There is no clear historical evidence in Cambodia to back up the information behind the name, a few wrapping technique and clothing. Many comes across as a pure product of the artist's imagination which inspired by the common clothing featured in Contemporary Cambodian films and television series.
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{{Short description|Silk or brocade wrap or shoulder cloth worn by women in Cambodia, Thailand and Laos}}
{{italic title}}
{{about|the garment|people with the surname|Sbai (surname)|other uses|SBAI (disambiguation){{!}}SBAI}}
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{{Multiple issues|
{{More citations needed|date=September 2019}}
{{More citations needed|date=September 2019}}
{{Original research|date=September 2019}}
{{Original research|date=September 2019}}
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{{Unreliable sources|date=September 2019}}
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[[File:Large-5d6e38b2567c4.jpg|thumb|300px|right|The stucco relief discovered at the [[Khu Bua|Khu Bua archaeological site]], which dates back to the 650-700 C.E. period of the [[Dvaravati]] culture, depicts four female figures wearing shawl-like garments.]]


'''''Sabai''''' or '''''sbai''''' ({{lang-km|ស្បៃ}}, ''sbai''; {{lang-th|สไบ}}, {{RTGS|''sabai''}}, {{IPA-th|sābāj|pron}}; {{lang-lo|ສະໄບ}}), or '''''phaa biang''''' ({{lang-lo|ຜ້າບ່ຽງ}}; {{lang-th|ผ้าเบี่ยง}}, {{IPA-th|pʰâː bìa̯ŋ|pron}}) is shawl-like garment, or breast cloth worn in [[mainland Southeast Asia]]. ''Sabai'' is a woman's silk breast wrapper in [[Cambodia]], [[Laos]], and [[Central Thailand]] while in coastal [[Sumatra]] the same term is used to described as a shoulder cloth.<ref name="Maxwell">{{cite book|first1=Robyn J.|last1=Maxwell|first2=Mattiebelle|last2=Gittinger|title=Textiles of Southeast Asia: Tradition, Trade and Transformation|publisher=Periplus Editions|year=2003|isbn=9780794601041}}</ref>{{RP|410}} The ''sabai'' was derived from the [[India]]n [[sari]], the end of which is worn over one shoulder.<ref name="Maxwell"/>{{RP|153}}
'''''Sbai''''' ({{langx|km|ស្បៃ}} {{IPA-km|sɓaj|}}; {{langx|lo|ສະໄບ}} {{IPA-lo|sā.bàj|}}; [[Malay language|Malay]]: ''Sebai''; [[Jawi alphabet|Jawi]]: ''سباي''; {{langx|th|สไบ}}, {{RTGS|''sabai''}} {{IPA|th|sā.bāj|}}) or '''''phaa biang''''' ({{langx|lo|ຜ້າບ່ຽງ}} {{IPA-lo|pʰȁː bīaŋ|}}; {{langx|th|ผ้าเบี่ยง}} {{IPA|th|pʰâː bìaŋ|}}) is a shawl-like garment worn by women in [[Cambodia]], [[Laos]], and [[Thailand]] to cover the breasts, while in [[Sumatra]], [[Borneo]] and the [[Malay Peninsula]], the same term is used to describe a cloth hanging from the shoulders.<ref name="Maxwell">{{cite book|first1=Robyn J.|last1=Maxwell|first2=Mattiebelle|last2=Gittinger|title=Textiles of Southeast Asia: Tradition, Trade and Transformation|publisher=Periplus Editions|year=2003|isbn=9780794601041|url-access=registration|url=https://archive.org/details/textilesofsouthe0000maxw}}</ref>{{RP|410}} The ''sbai'' was derived from the Indian ''[[sari]]'', the end of which is worn over one shoulder.'''<ref name="Maxwell" />{{RP|153}} '''


== Etymology ==
== Etymology ==
The term ''sbai'' is the contracted form of vowels which has its ultimately original roots from the [[Austronesian languages|Austronesian]] term ''*cahebay'',<ref name="wolff.2010.2">Wolff, John U et al. (2010). ''Proto-Austronesian Phonology with Glossary Vol. II''. Ithaca, NY: Cornell Southeast Asia Program Publications. p. 838. {{ISBN|978-087727-533-6}}</ref><ref>Blust, Robert A., Pawley, Andrew, and Adelaar, K. Alexander. (2009). ''Austronesian Historical Linguistics and Culture History A Festschrift for Robert Blust''. Canberra: Pacific Linguistics, Research School of Pacific and Asian Studies, The Australian National University. p. 118. {{ISBN|978-085-8-83601-3}} "*cahebay 'hang'".</ref> which was diversified as the first exodus in [[Taiwan]] as the [[Formosan languages|Formosan]] term ''*sapay''<ref name="wolff.2010.2"/><ref name="wolff.2010.1">Wolff, John U et al. (2010). ''Proto-Austronesian Phonology with Glossary Vol. I''. Ithaca, NY: Cornell Southeast Asia Program Publications. pp. 215, 217, 522. {{ISBN|978-087727-532-9}}</ref> from [[south China]] between 5,000–4,500 BCE, and the second exodus to the [[Philippines]], [[Indonesia]], and others occurred around 3,000–2,000 BCE.<ref>West, Barbara A. (2009). "Austronesians," ''Encyclopedia of the Peoples of Asia and Oceania''. New York, NY: Facts On File, Inc. pp. 64-65. {{ISBN|978-0-8160-7109-8}} {{LCCN|2008003055}}</ref>
According to Chuon Nath Dictionary, ''Sbai'' refers to any kind of thin and soft garment which usually use as a mosquito net.<ref>Chuon Nath Khmer Dictionary. 1966, Buddhist Institute, Phnom Penh</ref> In clothing, it specifically refers to shawl-like garment or breast cloth used by women. The origin behind the term is unknown.


Its vowel sequence was contracted from south China to the first exodus: ''*cahebay''{{arrow|right}}''*cahbay''{{arrow|right}}''*cahpay''{{arrow|right}}''*sapay'' (meaning: 'to hang').<ref name="wolff.2010.1"/> According to the Proto-Austronesian Phonology of [[Cornell University]] Southeast Asia Program (SEAP), there is the diversity of the term ''*cahebay'' or ''*sapay'' into subgroups of other languages families as follows:
In Thailand, ''Sabai'' is also used to describe the same shawl-like garment.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.thai2english.com/dictionary/1402943.html|title=สไบ - Thai / English dictionary meaning - สไบ ภาษาอังกฤษ แปล ความหมาย|website=www.thai2english.com|access-date=2019-09-07}}</ref>

* [[Austroasiatic languages]]: ''*lɓak'' ([[Dvaravati]] Old Mon and [[Nyah Kur language|Nyah Kur]]),<ref>Diffloth, Gérard. (1984). ''The Dvaravati Old Mon language and Nyah Kur''. Bangkok: Chulalongkorn University Printing House. p. 166. {{ISBN|9789745637832}} :— "V42. '''*lɓak''' NyK: to wear (cloth) across the shoulder [v.tr]; /ne̫ec - /: cloth for bathing, wrapping around the head... Mon: to wear around the neck; (Ri): to hang (cloth) on shoulder, on a line, in order to dry…"</ref> ''cambāy'' (Middle [[Mon language|Mon]]), ''*jbaay'' (Mon), ''*sapay''{{arrow|right}}''sĕbai'', ''sbai''{{arrow|right}}''sbāy'', ''spai''{{arrow|right}}''spiey'' or ''*sapay''{{arrow|right}}''spai''{{arrow|right}}''spiey'' ([[Old Khmer]] and Modern [[Khmer language|Khmer]]),<ref>Headley Robert K., Rath Chim, and Ok Soeum. (1997). ''Modern Cambodian-English Dictionary''. Kensington, MD: Dunwoody Press. p. 1,385. {{ISBN|978-093-1-74578-2}}</ref> ''phìai'' ([[Kuy language|Kuy]]).
* [[Austronesian languages]]: ''*cahebay''{{arrow|right}}''łahpay'', ''cahfay'', ''cabfay''. (Proto-Austronesian).<ref name="wolff.2010.1"/>
* [[Formosan languages]]: ''*sapay''{{arrow|right}}''sapai'' ([[Puyuma language|Puyuma]]).<ref name="wolff.2010.2"/>
* [[Indo-European languages]]: ''*səmpay'' ([[Sangsari language|Sangsari]]).<ref name="wolff.2010.2"/>
* [[Kra–Dai languages]]: ''*sapay''{{arrow|right}}''sĕbai'', ''sbai''{{arrow|right}}''sabai'', ''saphaay'' ([[Thai language|Thai]]).<ref>Tumtavitikul, Apiluck. "[http://sealang.net/archives/mks/pdf/23:11-41.pdf Perhaps, the tons are in the consonants?]," ''Mon-Khmer Studies Journal'' (23)(1993): 32.</ref><ref>Charoensappapuech, Supat. (2020) [https://www.gotoknow.org/posts/678190 ‘สไบ’ คำเขมร ที่ (อาจ) ไม่เขมร] [Sabai, in which is not Khmer word] (in Thai). ''GotoKnow''. Retrieved on 10 November 2024.</ref>
* [[Malayo-Polynesian languages]]: ''*sapay''{{arrow|right}}''sbai'',<ref>Shellabear, William Girdlestone. (1916). [https:/upwiki/wikipedia/commons/4/48/An_English-Malay_dictionary_%28IA_englishmalaydict00shelrich%29.pdf ''An English-Malay Dictionary'']. Singapore: Methodist Publishing House. p. 446.:— "Scarf (skarf), s. (round the neck) sapu-targan lehir, '''sbai''';* (round the waist) bngkorg; (over shoulder to carry children) ambin,* slendang."
* Raffles, Thomas Stamford. (1817). "APPENDIX E. No. I. A Comparative Vocabulary of The Malàyu, Jàvan, Madurese, Bàli, and Lampùng Languages, arranged under the following heads, viz.," [https://archive.org/details/b22012382_0002/mode/2up ''The History of Java Volume II: With a Map and Plates'']. London: Cox and Bailey Limited. p. 97.:— "(ENGLISH) Linen robe or cloth, (MALÁYU) slindang ; '''sbai''', (Jáva) kemben, (Bása kráma) kasemékan, (Súnda) karémbong, (Madúra) ..........., (Sumenáp) sa-ung-sa-ung, (BÁLI) tangkálong, (LAMPUNG) kakámban."</ref> ''sĕbai'',<ref>Wilkinson, Richard James. (1908). [https://archive.org/details/afu7967.0001.001.umich.edu/page/194/mode/2up ''An Abridged Malay-English Dictionary (Romanized)'']. Kuala Lumpur: The F.M.S. Government Press. p. 194.:— "sĕbai, a kind of scarf passing behind the neck and with the ends hanging down over the chest."</ref> ''sampai'' ([[Malay language|Malay]]), ''sampai'' ([[Indonesian language|Indonesian]]), ''sampay'', ''sampayán'' ([[Tagalog language|Tagalog]]), ''sampe'' ([[Makassarese language|Makassarese]], [[Selayar language|Serayar]]), ''sambay'', ''sablay'' ([[Maranao language|Maranao]]), ''sumpáy'' ([[Ratahan language|Ratahan]]), ''hafe-hafe'' ([[Tondano language|Tondarno]]), ''cave-'' ([[Filipino language|Filipinno]]), ''sappɛ'' ([[Buginese language|Buginese]]), ''sappɛ-sappɛ'' ([[Toba Batak language|Toba Batak]]), ''sampay-an'' ([[Ngaju language|Ngaju]]), ''sampe-lao'' ([[Muna language|Muna]]), ''sampi'', ''mi-sampy'', ''sampazana'' ([[Malagasy language|Malagasy]]), ''sambay'' ([[Maranao language|Maranao]]).<ref name="wolff.2010.2"/>
* [[Indo-European languages]]: ''spāy'' (unverified Sanskrit religious vocabulary as assumed by French.) from the [[Sanskrit]] of Khmer inscription on the Tāmrakumbha Indian brass water jug (K.669C Line 18) aged 972 CE at [[Preah Vihear Temple]].<ref>Soutif, Dominique and Estève, Julia. "TEXTS AND OBJECTS Exploiting the Literary Sources of Medieval Cambodia," in Hendrickson, Mitch ; Stark, Miriam T. ; and Evans, Damian. (2023). ''The Angkorian World''. London ; New York, NY: Routledge. p. 31. {{ISBN|978-081-5-35595-3|978-135-1-12894-0}} {{doi|10.4324/9781351128940}}</ref>


== History ==
== History ==
Sabai is possibly derived from the Indian [[sari]] which may have been introduced to Southeast Asia through the [[Greater India|Indianized Kingdoms]] along with other traditions and elements of Indian culture.<ref name="Maxwell" />{{RP|153}}
Sbai is derived from the Indian [[sari]], which may have been introduced to Southeast Asia through the [[Greater India|Indianized Kingdoms]] along with other traditions and elements of Indian culture.<ref name="Maxwell" />{{RP|153}}


=== Cambodia ===
=== Cambodia ===
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There are related mythologies in [[Culture of Cambodia|Khmer culture]] concerning the history of ''sbai'', which was likely introduced during the [[Funan]] era from India alongside ''[[chong kben]]'' in the first century AD. The ''sbai'' is mentioned in the legends of [[Preah Thong and Neang Neak]]. In one scene, Preah Thong clings to a piece of cloth worn on the Nagini in order to make the journey to the [[Nāga]]'s kingdom; that piece of cloth is a ''sbai''. In that tale, the ''sbai'' is symbolic of the tail of Neang Neak, the Nāga princess.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.cambodiancommunityday.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=69&Itemid=724|title=Custom & Tradition|website=www.cambodiancommunityday.org|access-date=2020-03-09}}</ref><ref name=":7">{{Cite web|url=https://www.outfittrends.com/traditional-thai-clothing-16-beautiful-outfits-from-thailand/|title=Traditional Thai Clothing-16 Beautiful Outfits From Thailand|last=Nadeem|first=Zuha|date=2019-10-01|website=Outfit Trends - Ideas How to Wear & What to Wear|language=en-US|access-date=2020-03-09}}</ref>


In the [[Khmer Empire|Angkorian period]], although it was common for men and women to be topless; however, clothes for the upper body were worn: the bas-reliefs of [[Bayon]], [[Preah Khan]], and other Angkorian temples depict women wearing a shawl-like ''sbai'' while religious male figures are adorned with stylized ''sbai''. At [[Angkor Wat]], there are depictions of topless Apsaras holding sbai connected to their ''[[sampot]]'', while the northern wall of Angkor Wat depicts a group of ladies wearing long ''sbai'' holding various offerings.
There are related mythologies in the [[Culture of Cambodia|Khmer culture]] concerning the history of ''sbai'', which was likely introduced during the Khmer Kingdom of [[Kingdom of Funan|Funan]] in the first century AD. The ''sbai'' is mentioned in the legends of [[Preah Thong and Neang Neak]]. In one scene, Preah Thong clings to a piece of cloth worn on the Nagini in order to make the journey to the [[Nāga]]'s kingdom; that piece of cloth is a ''sbai''. In that tale, the ''sbai'' is symbolic of the tail of Neang Neak, the Naga princess.<ref name=":0">[http://www.trustedcambodiatours.com/tours_detail.php?id=39 Khmer Traditional Wedding]</ref>
{{Image frame|content='''Bas-reliefs of Khmer women wearing sbai during the Angkor period (802 AD-1431 AD)'''
<gallery mode=packed heights=190>
File:Sbai Angkor.jpg|[[Angkor Wat|Angkor Wat temple]]
File:Sbai Khmer Angkor.jpg|[[Bayon|Bayon temple]]
File:Sbai banteay chmar temple.jpg|[[Banteay Chhmar|Banteay Chhmar temple]]
</gallery>|border=no|align=center}}
<br>
Nowadays, ''sbai'', along with ''[[chang kben]]'' and ''sampot'', are regarded as Cambodia's national costumes.<ref name=":3">{{Cite web|url=https://www.betterworldbooks.com/product/detail/thai-clothing-1158488734|title=Buy New & Used Books Online with Free Shipping|last=Books|first=Better World|website=Better World Books|access-date=2020-02-24}}</ref> Sbai most often used in traditional Khmer weddings with different type and decoration during the rite of {{lang|km|Preah Thong Taong Sbai Neang Neak}} ({{translation|Preah Thong holding on to the sbai of Neang Neak}}) which represents the legend of the foundation of Funan and where the groom holds on to the bride's ''sbai'' as they go to their room. The groom also wears a ''sbai''.<ref name=":4">{{Cite web|url=https://www.outfittrends.com/traditional-thai-clothing-16-beautiful-outfits-from-thailand/|title=Traditional Thai Clothing-16 Beautiful Outfits From Thailand|last=Nadeem|first=Zuha|date=2019-10-01|website=Outfit Trends - Ideas How to Wear & What to Wear|language=en-US|access-date=2020-03-06}}</ref>


For men, especially Brahmin and Buddhist monk, the ''sbai'' called ''[[Kasaya (clothing)|sbong sbai trai chivor]],''<ref name=":5">{{Cite web|url=https://www.rfa.org/khmer/program/religion/unique-colors-of-buddhist-monks-robes-01212015031540.html|title=លក្ខណៈពិសេសនៃពណ៌ស្បង់ចីវររបស់ព្រះសង្ឃពុទ្ធសាសនា|date=2015-01-21|website=Radio Free Asia|language=km|access-date=2019-09-07}}</ref> and is considered the robe of Hindu and Buddhist monks.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.wisdomlib.org/definition/civara|title=Civara, aka: Cīvara; 10 Definition(s)|date=2009-04-11|website=Wisdom Library|access-date=2019-09-07}}</ref> For women, ''sbai'' can be freely used and in different ways such as to wrapping it around the body, covering the shoulder, and commonly covering the breast and stomach over the left shoulder. Different styles of ''sbai'' are used by Cambodian women based on their preferences and traditions.


{{Image frame|content= |border=no|align=center}}
In [[Khmer Empire|Angkorian]] period, although it was common for men and women to be topless, however clothes for the upper body could be worn: the [[bas reliefs]] of [[Bayon]] and [[Preah Khan]] temples depict a few figures with questionable gender wearing a shawl-like ''sbai''.


=== Laos ===
[[File:Traditional dance during Baci ceremeony in Lao.jpg|thumb|Lao women wearing colorful ''sabai'' or ''phaa biang'' in traditional dance ]]
In Laos, this garment is known as '''''phaa biang''''' or sabai. It is common for Lao women to wear ''sabai'' as it is considered traditional clothing. A ''sabai'' can also be worn by men in weddings or when attending religious ceremonies. The type of ''sabai'' typically worn by Lao men often has checkered patterns. ''Sabai'' can also be a long piece of silk, about a foot wide, that is draped diagonally over the chest covering one shoulder with one end dropping behind the back.<ref>Bonnie Ghazarbekian, Jane Siegel, ''Sawaddi, 15 years'', p.130.</ref>


=== Malaysia ===
Nowadays, ''sbai'' is most often used in traditional Khmer weddings during the rite of ''Preah Thong Taong Sbai Neang Neak'' (English: 'Preah Thong holding on to the sbai of Neang Neak') which represents the legend of the foundation of Funan and where the groom holds on to the bride's ''sbai'' as they go to their room. The groom also wears a ''sbai''.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":1">[http://www.cambodianscene.com/index.php?target=article&title=women Cambodian history rich with female role-models and rulers]</ref><gallery>
In Malaysia, Sebai is a cloth wrapped around the neck to cover the shoulders with both ends hanging on the chest similar to a scarf hung over the shoulders.<ref name="DBP-Sebai">{{Cite web|url=https://prpm.dbp.gov.my/cari1?keyword=sebai|title=Carian Umum - Sebai|website=prpm.dbp.gov.my|lang=ms|access-date=2020-11-15}}</ref>


=== Myanmar ===
File:Sbai Khmer.png|A figure wearing a shawl like''sbai'' depicted on [[Bayon]] temple
[[File:20200206 150859 Mon Girls in Mawlamyaing Myanmar anagoria.JPG|right|thumb|Mon women wearing traditional clothes in [[Mon State]], [[Myanmar]]]]
File:Ang Mei, Queen of Cambodia.jpeg|Queen [[Ang Mey]] and her daughters wearing ''sbai'' in the 1800s
File:Cambodian couple.jpg|Cambodian bride wearing a ''sbai'' in the wedding ceremony
</gallery>


The [[Mon people|ethnic Mon]] is also known to have similar tradition of wearing the shawl-like ''sabai'' called '''''yat toot''''' in [[Mon language|Mon]] language, diagonally over the chest covering one shoulder with one end dropping behind the back like that worn by Lao women. This tradition distinguished them from other ethnic groups in Myanmar. The Mon people of Myanmar and Thailand today were the descendants of various Indianized polities, notably [[Dvaravati]]. Artifacts from Dvaravati sites in what is now Thailand depicted a group of ladies wearing what is similar to ''sabai''.
=== Laos ===
It is common for Lao women to wear ''sabai'' as it is considered traditional clothing. A ''sabai'' can also be worn by men in weddings or when attending religious ceremonies. The type of ''sabai'' typically worn by Lao men often has checkered patterns. ''Sabai'' can also be a long piece of silk, about a foot wide, that is draped diagonally over the chest covering one shoulder with one end dropping behind the back.<ref>Bonnie Ghazarbekian, Jane Siegel, ''Sawaddi, 15 years'', p.130.</ref>


=== Thailand ===
=== Thailand ===
[[File:Silk Loom Jim Thompson House photo D Ramey Logan.jpg|thumb|Thai women wearing ''sabai'' at [[Jim Thompson House]]]]
Archaeological evidence from a [[Mon people|Mon]] [[Dvaravati]] site depicts five ladies playing instruments and wearing what seems to be a piece of fabric hanging from their shoulder which is quite similar to ''sabai''.<ref>http://www.chatnirun.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Poon1.jpg</ref>{{Original research inline|date=September 2019}}<gallery>
Artifacts found in [[Mon people|ethnic Mon]] [[Dvaravati]] sites depict group of ladies wearing what is similar to ''sabai''.
File:Silk Loom Jim Thompson House photo D Ramey Logan.jpg|Thai women wearing ''sabai'' at [[Jim Thompson House]]
'''''Sabai''''' ({{langx|th|สไบ}}, {{RTGS|''sabai''}}, {{IPA|th|sābāj|pron}}) or pha biang ({{langx|th|ผ้าเบี่ยง}} {{IPA|th|pʰâː.bìaŋ|pron}}) is shawl-like garment, or breast cloth. Sabais can be used by women or men. The sabai is also known as a long piece of silk, about a foot wide, draped diagonally around the chest by covering one shoulder which its end drops behind the back. Sabais could be worn around the naked chest or on top of another cloth. The practice of wearing Sabai along with Victorian cloth was a common practice during the reign of King Chulalongkorn and lasted until the reign of King Vajiravudh when Westernized clothing became more fashionable.
File:HM Queen Savang Vadhana of Siam.jpg|[[Savang Vadhana|Queen Savang Vadhana]], consort and half-sister of [[Chulalongkorn|King Chulalongkorn]] (Rama V)

==Gallery==
<gallery perrow="5">
File:Khmer temple depictions of Sbai.jpg|Figures wearing stylised ''sbai'' depicted on [[Khmer Empire|Angkorian]] temples
File:Ang Mei, Queen of Cambodia.jpeg|Queen [[Ang Mey]] and her daughters wearing ''sbai'' in the 1800s
File:Siamese lady of title, wife of Prime Minister, Bangkok, Siam Wellcome L0055546.jpg|Lady Pun Bunnag, [[Somdet Chaophraya Borom Maha Sri Suriwongse]]'s wife wearing ''pha biang'', 1866
File:Siamese girl (NYPL Hades-2359944-4044709).jpg|Siamese girl wearing ''pha biang'', 1921
File:Rama III's daughter.jpg|Daughters of [[King Rama II]] and [[King Rama III]] wearing ''pha biang'' in the 1800s
File:Queen Debsirindra.jpg|[[Debsirindra|Queen Debsirindra]], the second consort of King [[Mongkut]] wearing ''pha biang'', 1855
File:Cambodian couple.jpg|Cambodian bride wearing a ''sbai'' in a wedding ceremony
File:Cambodian American Dance (22662834390).jpg|Dancer wearing ''sbai''
</gallery>
</gallery>


==See also==
==See also==
*[[Sampot Chang Kben]]
{{Commons category|Sbai}}
*[[Khmer Traditional Dress]]
*[[Cambodian clothing]]
*[[Culture of Cambodia]]
*[[Chut thai]]
*[[Chut thai]]
*[[Sampot]]
*[[Sampot Samloy]]
*[[Kemben]]
*[[Kemben]]
*[[Malaysian cultural outfits]]
*[[Sampot]]
*[[Sampot Chang Kben]]
*[[Argon (clothing)]]
*[[Sari]]
*[[Sari]]
*[[Traditional Thai clothing]]
*[[Traditional Thai clothing]]
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==References==
==References==
{{reflist}}
{{reflist}}

==External links==
{{commonscatinline}}


{{Clothing}}
{{Clothing}}
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{{Historical clothing}}
{{Historical clothing}}


[[Category:Cambodian clothing]]
[[Category:Shawls and wraps]]
[[Category:Shawls and wraps]]
[[Category:Cambodian clothing]]
[[Category:Folk costumes]]
[[Category:Folk costumes]]
[[Category:Thai clothing]]
[[Category:Laotian clothing]]
[[Category:Laotian clothing]]
[[Category:Malay clothing]]
[[Category:Thai clothing]]
[[Category:History of Asian clothing]]
[[Category:History of Asian clothing]]

Latest revision as of 12:18, 22 November 2024

This article is about the garment. For people with the surname, see Sbai (surname). For other uses, see SBAI.
The stucco relief discovered at the Khu Bua archaeological site, which dates back to the 650-700 C.E. period of the Dvaravati culture, depicts four female figures wearing shawl-like garments.

Sbai (Khmer: ស្បៃ [sɓaj]; Lao: ສະໄບ [sā.bàj]; Malay: Sebai; Jawi: سباي; Thai: สไบ, RTGS: sabai [sā.bāj]) or phaa biang (Lao: ຜ້າບ່ຽງ [pʰȁː bīaŋ]; Thai: ผ้าเบี่ยง [pʰâː bìaŋ]) is a shawl-like garment worn by women in Cambodia, Laos, and Thailand to cover the breasts, while in Sumatra, Borneo and the Malay Peninsula, the same term is used to describe a cloth hanging from the shoulders.[1]: 410  The sbai was derived from the Indian sari, the end of which is worn over one shoulder.[1]: 153 

Etymology

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The term sbai is the contracted form of vowels which has its ultimately original roots from the Austronesian term *cahebay,[2][3] which was diversified as the first exodus in Taiwan as the Formosan term *sapay[2][4] from south China between 5,000–4,500 BCE, and the second exodus to the Philippines, Indonesia, and others occurred around 3,000–2,000 BCE.[5]

Its vowel sequence was contracted from south China to the first exodus: *cahebay→*cahbay→*cahpay→*sapay (meaning: 'to hang').[4] According to the Proto-Austronesian Phonology of Cornell University Southeast Asia Program (SEAP), there is the diversity of the term *cahebay or *sapay into subgroups of other languages families as follows:

History

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Sbai is derived from the Indian sari, which may have been introduced to Southeast Asia through the Indianized Kingdoms along with other traditions and elements of Indian culture.[1]: 153 

Cambodia

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Khmer woman wearing Sbai and Sompot Chong Kben

There are related mythologies in Khmer culture concerning the history of sbai, which was likely introduced during the Funan era from India alongside chong kben in the first century AD. The sbai is mentioned in the legends of Preah Thong and Neang Neak. In one scene, Preah Thong clings to a piece of cloth worn on the Nagini in order to make the journey to the Nāga's kingdom; that piece of cloth is a sbai. In that tale, the sbai is symbolic of the tail of Neang Neak, the Nāga princess.[13][14]

In the Angkorian period, although it was common for men and women to be topless; however, clothes for the upper body were worn: the bas-reliefs of Bayon, Preah Khan, and other Angkorian temples depict women wearing a shawl-like sbai while religious male figures are adorned with stylized sbai. At Angkor Wat, there are depictions of topless Apsaras holding sbai connected to their sampot, while the northern wall of Angkor Wat depicts a group of ladies wearing long sbai holding various offerings.

Bas-reliefs of Khmer women wearing sbai during the Angkor period (802 AD-1431 AD)


Nowadays, sbai, along with chang kben and sampot, are regarded as Cambodia's national costumes.[15] Sbai most often used in traditional Khmer weddings with different type and decoration during the rite of Preah Thong Taong Sbai Neang Neak (transl. Preah Thong holding on to the sbai of Neang Neak) which represents the legend of the foundation of Funan and where the groom holds on to the bride's sbai as they go to their room. The groom also wears a sbai.[16]

For men, especially Brahmin and Buddhist monk, the sbai called sbong sbai trai chivor,[17] and is considered the robe of Hindu and Buddhist monks.[18] For women, sbai can be freely used and in different ways such as to wrapping it around the body, covering the shoulder, and commonly covering the breast and stomach over the left shoulder. Different styles of sbai are used by Cambodian women based on their preferences and traditions.

Laos

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Lao women wearing colorful sabai or phaa biang in traditional dance

In Laos, this garment is known as phaa biang or sabai. It is common for Lao women to wear sabai as it is considered traditional clothing. A sabai can also be worn by men in weddings or when attending religious ceremonies. The type of sabai typically worn by Lao men often has checkered patterns. Sabai can also be a long piece of silk, about a foot wide, that is draped diagonally over the chest covering one shoulder with one end dropping behind the back.[19]

Malaysia

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In Malaysia, Sebai is a cloth wrapped around the neck to cover the shoulders with both ends hanging on the chest similar to a scarf hung over the shoulders.[20]

Myanmar

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Mon women wearing traditional clothes in Mon State, Myanmar

The ethnic Mon is also known to have similar tradition of wearing the shawl-like sabai called yat toot in Mon language, diagonally over the chest covering one shoulder with one end dropping behind the back like that worn by Lao women. This tradition distinguished them from other ethnic groups in Myanmar. The Mon people of Myanmar and Thailand today were the descendants of various Indianized polities, notably Dvaravati. Artifacts from Dvaravati sites in what is now Thailand depicted a group of ladies wearing what is similar to sabai.

Thailand

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Thai women wearing sabai at Jim Thompson House

Artifacts found in ethnic Mon Dvaravati sites depict group of ladies wearing what is similar to sabai. Sabai (Thai: สไบ, RTGS: sabai, pronounced [sābāj]) or pha biang (Thai: ผ้าเบี่ยง pronounced [pʰâː.bìaŋ]) is shawl-like garment, or breast cloth. Sabais can be used by women or men. The sabai is also known as a long piece of silk, about a foot wide, draped diagonally around the chest by covering one shoulder which its end drops behind the back. Sabais could be worn around the naked chest or on top of another cloth. The practice of wearing Sabai along with Victorian cloth was a common practice during the reign of King Chulalongkorn and lasted until the reign of King Vajiravudh when Westernized clothing became more fashionable.

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See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b c Maxwell, Robyn J.; Gittinger, Mattiebelle (2003). Textiles of Southeast Asia: Tradition, Trade and Transformation. Periplus Editions. ISBN 9780794601041.
  2. ^ a b c d e Wolff, John U et al. (2010). Proto-Austronesian Phonology with Glossary Vol. II. Ithaca, NY: Cornell Southeast Asia Program Publications. p. 838. ISBN 978-087727-533-6
  3. ^ Blust, Robert A., Pawley, Andrew, and Adelaar, K. Alexander. (2009). Austronesian Historical Linguistics and Culture History A Festschrift for Robert Blust. Canberra: Pacific Linguistics, Research School of Pacific and Asian Studies, The Australian National University. p. 118. ISBN 978-085-8-83601-3 "*cahebay 'hang'".
  4. ^ a b c Wolff, John U et al. (2010). Proto-Austronesian Phonology with Glossary Vol. I. Ithaca, NY: Cornell Southeast Asia Program Publications. pp. 215, 217, 522. ISBN 978-087727-532-9
  5. ^ West, Barbara A. (2009). "Austronesians," Encyclopedia of the Peoples of Asia and Oceania. New York, NY: Facts On File, Inc. pp. 64-65. ISBN 978-0-8160-7109-8 LCCN 2008-3055
  6. ^ Diffloth, Gérard. (1984). The Dvaravati Old Mon language and Nyah Kur. Bangkok: Chulalongkorn University Printing House. p. 166. ISBN 9789745637832 :— "V42. *lɓak NyK: to wear (cloth) across the shoulder [v.tr]; /ne̫ec - /: cloth for bathing, wrapping around the head... Mon: to wear around the neck; (Ri): to hang (cloth) on shoulder, on a line, in order to dry…"
  7. ^ Headley Robert K., Rath Chim, and Ok Soeum. (1997). Modern Cambodian-English Dictionary. Kensington, MD: Dunwoody Press. p. 1,385. ISBN 978-093-1-74578-2
  8. ^ Tumtavitikul, Apiluck. "Perhaps, the tons are in the consonants?," Mon-Khmer Studies Journal (23)(1993): 32.
  9. ^ Charoensappapuech, Supat. (2020) ‘สไบ’ คำเขมร ที่ (อาจ) ไม่เขมร [Sabai, in which is not Khmer word] (in Thai). GotoKnow. Retrieved on 10 November 2024.
  10. ^ Shellabear, William Girdlestone. (1916). An English-Malay Dictionary. Singapore: Methodist Publishing House. p. 446.:— "Scarf (skarf), s. (round the neck) sapu-targan lehir, sbai;* (round the waist) bngkorg; (over shoulder to carry children) ambin,* slendang."
    • Raffles, Thomas Stamford. (1817). "APPENDIX E. No. I. A Comparative Vocabulary of The Malàyu, Jàvan, Madurese, Bàli, and Lampùng Languages, arranged under the following heads, viz.," The History of Java Volume II: With a Map and Plates. London: Cox and Bailey Limited. p. 97.:— "(ENGLISH) Linen robe or cloth, (MALÁYU) slindang ; sbai, (Jáva) kemben, (Bása kráma) kasemékan, (Súnda) karémbong, (Madúra) ..........., (Sumenáp) sa-ung-sa-ung, (BÁLI) tangkálong, (LAMPUNG) kakámban."
  11. ^ Wilkinson, Richard James. (1908). An Abridged Malay-English Dictionary (Romanized). Kuala Lumpur: The F.M.S. Government Press. p. 194.:— "sĕbai, a kind of scarf passing behind the neck and with the ends hanging down over the chest."
  12. ^ Soutif, Dominique and Estève, Julia. "TEXTS AND OBJECTS Exploiting the Literary Sources of Medieval Cambodia," in Hendrickson, Mitch ; Stark, Miriam T. ; and Evans, Damian. (2023). The Angkorian World. London ; New York, NY: Routledge. p. 31. ISBN 978-081-5-35595-3, 978-135-1-12894-0 doi:10.4324/9781351128940
  13. ^ "Custom & Tradition". www.cambodiancommunityday.org. Retrieved 2020-03-09.
  14. ^ Nadeem, Zuha (2019-10-01). "Traditional Thai Clothing-16 Beautiful Outfits From Thailand". Outfit Trends - Ideas How to Wear & What to Wear. Retrieved 2020-03-09.
  15. ^ Books, Better World. "Buy New & Used Books Online with Free Shipping". Better World Books. Retrieved 2020-02-24.
  16. ^ Nadeem, Zuha (2019-10-01). "Traditional Thai Clothing-16 Beautiful Outfits From Thailand". Outfit Trends - Ideas How to Wear & What to Wear. Retrieved 2020-03-06.
  17. ^ "លក្ខណៈពិសេសនៃពណ៌ស្បង់ចីវររបស់ព្រះសង្ឃពុទ្ធសាសនា". Radio Free Asia (in Khmer). 2015-01-21. Retrieved 2019-09-07.
  18. ^ "Civara, aka: Cīvara; 10 Definition(s)". Wisdom Library. 2009-04-11. Retrieved 2019-09-07.
  19. ^ Bonnie Ghazarbekian, Jane Siegel, Sawaddi, 15 years, p.130.
  20. ^ "Carian Umum - Sebai". prpm.dbp.gov.my (in Malay). Retrieved 2020-11-15.
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