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Coordinates: 27°57′59″N 86°53′24″E / 27.9664°N 86.89°E / 27.9664; 86.89
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{{Short description|Mountain in Nepal}}
{{Infobox mountain
{{Infobox mountain
| name = Nuptse
| name = Nuptse
| photo = Nuptse-fromLobuche.jpg
| photo = Nuptse, Nepal, Himalayas.jpg
| photo_caption = Nuptse from [[Lobuche, Nepal|Lobuche]]
| photo_caption = Nuptse from [[Kala Patthar]]
| native_name = {{bo-textonly|ནུབ་རྩེ།}} नुबचे
| native_name = {{native_name|xsr|{{bo-textonly|ནུབ་རྩེ།}} नुबचे}}
| native_name_lang = Nepali
| elevation_m = 7861
| elevation_m = 7861
| elevation_ref =
| elevation_ref =
Line 13: Line 13:
| translation = West Peak
| translation = West Peak
| language = [[Standard Tibetan|Tibetan]]
| language = [[Standard Tibetan|Tibetan]]
| location = [[Khumbu]], [[Nepal]]
| map = Nepal Province1#Nepal#China Tibet
⚫
| range = [[Mahalangur Himal]]
| map = Nepal
| map_caption = Nepal
| label_position = left
| label_position = left
| location = [[Solukhumbu District]], [[Sagarmatha Zone]], [[Nepal]]
⚫
| coordinates = {{coord|27|57|59|N|86|53|24|E|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
⚫
| range = [[Mahalangur Himal]], [[Himalayas]]
⚫
| coordinates = {{coord|type:mountain |format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates_ref =
| coordinates_ref =
| topo =
| mapframe = no
| map_image= {{OSM Himalaya}}
| first_ascent = 1961 by a British team led by Joe Walmsley
| first_ascent = 1961 by a British team led by Joe Walmsley
| easiest_route = snow/ice climb
| easiest_route = snow/ice climb
}}
}}
{{infobox Chinese
⚫
'''Nuptse''' or '''Nubtse''' ([[Sherpa language|Sherpa]]: {{bo-textonly|ནུབ་རྩེ།}} नुबचे, Wylie: Nub rtse) is a [[mountain]] in the [[Khumbu]] region of the [[Mahalangur Himal]], in the [[Nepal]]ese [[Himalayas]]. It lies two kilometres WSW of [[Mount Everest]]. Nubtse is [[Standard Tibetan|Tibetan]] for "west peak", as it is the western segment of the [[Lhotse]]-Nubtse [[massif]].
|c=努子峰
|p=
}}
⚫
'''Nuptse''' or '''Nubtse''' ([[Sherpa language|Sherpa]]: {{bo-textonly|ནུབ་རྩེ།}} नुबचे, Wylie: Nub rtse, {{CJKV|c=努子峰}}) is a [[mountain]] in the [[Khumbu]] region of the [[Mahalangur Himal]], in the [[Nepal]]ese [[Himalayas]]. It lies {{Cvt|2|km|mi|abbr=on}} WSW of [[Mount Everest]]. The main peak, Nuptse I at an elevation of {{Cvt|7,861|m|ft|abbr=on}}, was first climbed on May 16, 1961, by [[Dennis Davis (climber)|Dennis Davis]] and [[Sherpa people|Sherpa]] Tashi.<ref name=aaj_1961/><ref name=cc_1962/> After a hiatus of almost 20 years, Nuptse again became the objective of mountaineers, with important routes being put up on its west, south, and north faces.

== Name ==
Nuptse is [[Standard Tibetan|Tibetan]] for "west peak", as it is the western segment of the [[Lhotse]]-Nuptse [[massif]].<ref>{{Cite web |date=2003 |title=Nuptse |url=https://www.summitpost.org/nuptse/150615 |access-date=4 November 2023 |website=summitpost.org}}</ref>


== Geography ==
The summit of Nuptse is extremely dangerous due to loose snow with a lot of hollows, and there are also weakly attached [[Snow cornice|cornices]] of snow. This provides a barrier to climbing, yet is not sturdy enough for safe climbing.<ref name=Kenton>
⚫
Nuptse lies {{Cvt|2|km|mi|abbr=on}} WSW of Mount Everest. It is a dramatic peak when viewed from the south or west, and it towers above the base camp for the standard [[Mount Everest#Routes|south col route]] on Everest. However, it is not a particularly independent peak: its [[topographic prominence]] is only {{convert|319|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}. Hence it is not ranked in the [[list of highest mountains]].{{citation needed|date=November 2023}}
{{Cite news|url=https://www.outsideonline.com/1929321/full-story-kenton-cool-and-triple-crown|title=The Full Story of Kenton Cool and the Triple Crown|last=Arnette|first=Alan|date=2013-05-29|work=Outside Online|access-date=2017-06-08|language=en}}</ref>


The main Nuptse ridge contains 7 summits:
The long east-west trending main ridge of Nubtse is crowned by seven peaks:
<div style="margin-left:3em">
<div style="margin-left:3em">
{| class=wikitable floatright style=text-align:right
{| border=0 cellspacing=5
! align=left|Peak ||metres|| feet ||Latitude (N)||Longitude (E) || Note
! align=center|Summit || Elevation || Latitude (N) || Longitude (E)
|-
|-
|Nubtse I || 7,861 || 25,791 || 27°57&prime;59&Prime; || 86°53&prime;24&Prime; || This one is the top
|style="text-align:left"; |Nuptse I || {{cvt|7,861|m|ft|abbr=on}} || 27°57′59″ || 86°53′24″
|-
|-
|Nubtse II || 7,827 || 25,679 || 27°57&prime;52&Prime; || 86°53&prime;34&Prime;
|style="text-align:left"; |Nuptse II || {{cvt|7,827|m|ft|abbr=on}} || 27°57′52″ || 86°53′34″
|-
|-
|Nubtse Shar I || 7,804 || 25,604 || 27°57&prime;41&Prime; || 86°53&prime;47&Prime;
|style="text-align:left"; |Nuptse Shar I || {{cvt|7,804|m|ft|abbr=on}} || 27°57′41″ || 86°53′47″
|-
|-
|Nubtse Nup I || 7,784 || 25,538 || 27°58&prime;05&Prime; || 86°53&prime;08&Prime;
|style="text-align:left"; |Nuptse Nup I || {{cvt|7,784|m|ft|abbr=on}} || 27°58′05″ || 86°53′08″
|-
|-
|Nubtse Shar II || 7,776 || 25,512 || 27°57&prime;39&Prime; || 86°53&prime;55&Prime;
|style="text-align:left"; |Nuptse Shar II || {{cvt|7,776|m|ft|abbr=on}} || 27°57′39″ || 86°53′55″
|-
|-
|Nubtse Nup II || 7,742 || 25,400 || 27°58&prime;06&Prime; || 86°52&prime;54&Prime;
|style="text-align:left"; |Nuptse Nup II || {{cvt|7,742|m|ft|abbr=on}} || 27°58′06″ || 86°52′54″
|-
|-
|Nubtse Shar III || 7,695 || 25,246 || 27°57&prime;30&Prime; || 86°54&prime;42&Prime;
|style="text-align:left"; |Nuptse Shar III || {{cvt|7,695|m|ft|abbr=on}}|| 27°57′30″ || 86°54′42″
|}
|}
</div>
</div>
{{Himalaya annotated imagemap|caption=Southern and northern climbing routes as seen from the [[International Space Station]]. (The names on the photo are links to corresponding pages.)|align=none}}

<!--
The main peak, Nubtse I, was first climbed on May 16, 1961 by [[Dennis Davis (climber)|Dennis Davis]] and [[Sherpa people|Sherpa]] Tashi and the following day by [[Chris Bonington]], Les Brown, James Swallow and Pemba Sherpa, members of a [[United Kingdom|British]] expedition led by Joe Walmsley.<ref name=aaj_1961/><ref name=cc_1962/> This route they took is called the [[Doug_Scott|Scott route]] for the Nuptse mountain. After this it was climbed just twice between 1961 and 1996.<ref name=Peakware>{{Cite web|url=https://peakware.com/peaks.php?pk=931|title=Nuptse Overview - Peakware.com|website=peakware.com|language=en|access-date=2017-06-08}}</ref>

A joint British/Nepalese Army team attempted the Scott Route in 1975 but sadly the summit team fell from the final couloir, probably having been knocked off by a stone fall or snow slide.<ref>Nuptse 1975 Alpine Journal http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1976_files/AJ%201976%20107-116%20Fleming%20Nuptse.pdf</ref><ref>The Army Board of Inquiry Report into the deaths with photographs is available from the National Archives https://discovery.nationalarchives.gov.uk/results/r?_q=nuptse+expedition (retrieved 8/01/2020) </ref>

After a long hiatus, Nubtse again became the objective of high-standard mountaineers in the 1990s and 2000s, with important routes being put up on its west, south, and north faces.

⚫
While Nubtse is a dramatic peak when viewed from the south or west, and it towers above the base camp for the standard south col route on Everest, it is not a particularly independent peak: its [[topographic prominence]] is only {{convert|319|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}. Hence it is not ranked on the [[list of highest mountains]].

In 2013 Briton [[Kenton Cool]] summited Nuptse as part of the"Triple Crown" or "Everest Trilogy" climb, which he achieved that year.<ref name=Kenton/> He summited Nuptse, Everest, and Lhotse in one season, supported by various climbers and using various climbing techniques.<ref name=Kenton/> During this climb Mr. Cool tried to save the life a climber that had come down with HACE after summiting Lhotse, but was not reachable for helicopter rescue.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.outsideonline.com/1929321/full-story-kenton-cool-and-triple-crown|title=The Full Story of Kenton Cool and the Triple Crown|last=Arnette|first=Alan|date=2013-05-29|work=Outside Online|access-date=2017-06-08|language=en}}</ref>

On April 30, 2017, famed Swiss mountaineer and speed-climber [[Ueli Steck]] died in an accident near Camp 1 off the [[Western Cwm]], whilst on an acclimatisation climb on the north face of the Nuptse Wall.

==Views==
⚫
<div style="float:left;">[[File:Nuptse-fromChukhungRi.jpg|thumb|Nubtse from [[Chukhung Ri]] (view from the south looking north)]]</div>
⚫
<div style="float:left;">[[File:Everest nubtse.jpg|thumb|right|Nubtse on the right, Everest to the left (view from the west looking east)]]</div>
<div style="float:left;">[[File:Mount Everest morning.jpg|thumb|The low prominence of the Nuptse peak compared to its shars can be see here, as well as Nuptse's lower height compared to Lhotse and Everest to the right.]]</div>
<div style="float:left;">[[File:Everest view from Sat.JPG|thumb|This overhead view with notes, shows the location of Nuptse relative to main climbing routes and Everest and Lhotse]]</div>
{{clear|left}}
<!--==View==

<imagemap>
<imagemap>
File:Himalaya_annotated.jpg|center|thumb|700px|Southern and northern climbing routes as seen from the [[International Space Station]]. (The names on the photo are links to corresponding pages.)
File:Himalaya_annotated.jpg|center|thumb|300px|Southern and northern climbing routes as seen from the [[International Space Station]]. (The names on the photo are links to corresponding pages.)
rect 58 14 160 49 58 14 160 49 58 14 160 49 [[Chomo Lonzo]]
rect 58 14 160 49 58 14 160 49 58 14 160 49 [[Chomo Lonzo]]
rect 200 28 335 52 [[Makalu]]
rect 200 28 335 52 [[Makalu]]
Line 92: Line 82:
{{-}}
{{-}}
-->
-->

== Climbing ==
⚫
[[File:Everest nubtse.jpg|thumb|left|Nuptse on the right, Everest to the left]]
⚫
[[File:Nuptse-fromChukhungRi.jpg|thumb|Nuptse from [[Chukhung Ri]]]]
Nuptse was first climbed in 1961 and a few times thereafter.
* 1961 - First ascent of the North Ridge on May 16 by [[Dennis Davis (climber)|Dennis Davis]] and Sherpa Tashi as part of a British expedition led by Joe Walmsley. Tashi was the first human to set foot on the summit as Davis waited to take photos. Davis followed closely after Tashi.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Davis |first=D. |date=1961 |title=Nuptse: Part II Summit |url=http://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/23/1/nuptse/#point2 |journal=[[The Himalayan Journal]] |volume=23 |issue=1}}</ref> On May 17, other members of the same expedition reached the summit: [[Chris Bonington]], Les Brown, James Swallow and Pemba Sherpa.<ref name="aaj_1961" /><ref name="cc_1962" />
* 1976 - The Joint British Army-Royal Nepalese Army Nuptse Expedition in an attempt to be the second team atop Nuptse ended in tragedy with the loss of four climbers to falls.<ref>{{Cite web |title=AAC Publications - Asia, Nepal, Nuptse Tragedy |url=https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197651300/Asia-Nepal-Nuptse-Tragedy |access-date=2024-06-13 |website=publications.americanalpineclub.org}}</ref>
* 1979 - Ascent of the North Ridge on October 19 by [[Georges Bettembourg]], [[Doug Scott]], [[Alan Rouse]] and Brian Hall.<ref name="AlpinistSummer23">{{Cite journal |last=Blanchard |first=B. |date=1 June 2023 |title=A Mountain Apart |journal=[[Alpinist (magazine)|Alpinist Magazine]] |volume=Summer 2023 |issue=82 |pages=50–75}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Hall |first=Brian |date=2022-07-21 |title=Epic Descent From Nuptse |url=https://www.climbing.com/people/worst-day-of-our-lives-epic-descent-from-north-ridge-of-nuptse/ |access-date=2024-06-13 |website=Climbing |language=en-US}}</ref>
* 1984 - First ascent of the West Ridge by Yvan Estienne, Rémi Roux, ''et al''., an expedition led by Raymond Renaud.
* 1994 - First ascent of the south pillar of Nuptse Shar I by Frenchmen Michel Fauquet and Vincent Fine, who were stopped by the wind on the summit ridge {{Convert|300|m|ft|abbr=on}} from the summit. The climb was nominated for a [[Piolets d'Or]].<ref>{{Cite web |title=Piolets d'Or - 1992 - 2021 |url=https://pioletsdor.net/index.php/en/1992-2021 |access-date=2024-06-13 |website=pioletsdor.net}}</ref>
* 1997 - Nuptse - Nup II (7742 m) - on top: Tomaž Humar, Janez Jeglič
* 2008 - Opening of the south face by Stéphane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz; nominated for the Piolets d'Or in 2008.
* 2017 - Frédéric Degoulet, Benjamin Guigonnet and Hélias Millerioux open a route on the south face.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Franz |first=D. |date=2017 |title=French team completes new route on Nuptse's south face |url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web17f/newswire-new-route-on-nuptse-south-face |access-date=4 November 2023 |website=[[Alpinist (magazine)|Alpinist.com Newswire]]}}</ref>
* 2023 - On 8 May, a team of 3 climbers from the US and 6 Sherpas were the first to reach the summit in the year. It is reported that at least 65 climbers in 6 teams have obtained permits for Nuptse.<ref>{{Cite news |date=8 May 2023 |title=HG climbers make season's first summit on Nuptse |work=[[The Himalayan Times]] |url=https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/hg-climbers-make-seasons-first-summit-on-nuptse |access-date=5 November 2023}}</ref>

==In culture==
In 1987, Sally McCoy, Director of Equipment at [[The North Face]], an American [[Outdoor recreation|outdoor recreation products]] company, was part of the Snowbird Everest Expedition. This inspired The North Face to create outerwear named after peaks and glaciers of the region. In 1992, the company introduced the Nuptse Jacket. It featured a novel baffle construction to reduce shifting of the down and to increase warmth.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Kollat |first=M. |date=30 November 2022 |title=The North Face relaunches the exact replica of its most famous jacket |url=https://www.t3.com/news/the-north-face-relaunches-the-exact-replica-of-its-most-famous-jacket |access-date=4 November 2023 |website=[[T3 (magazine)|T3]]}}</ref> The Nuptse jacket in bright colours was popular in [[New York City]] in the 1990s, especially among school kids and [[Rapping|rappers]].<ref>{{Cite web |last=Takanashi |first=L. |date=31 October 2018 |title=How The North Face Took Over ’90s New York |url=https://www.thecut.com/2018/10/the-north-face-new-york-style.html |access-date=5 November 2023 |website=[[The Cut (website)|The Cut]]}}</ref> The Nuptse line of outdoors clothing has expanded to over 60 items in 2023.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2023 |title=The North Face Nuptse Collection of Jackets, Vests, and More |url=https://www.thenorthface.com/en-us/explore/nuptse |access-date=4 November 2023 |website=[[The North Face]]}}</ref>

== See also ==

* [[Ueli Steck]], Swiss alpinist who died falling from Nuptse


==References==
==References==
⚫
{{Commons category}}
{{reflist|refs=
{{reflist|refs=
<ref name=aaj_1961>
<ref name=aaj_1961>
{{cite journal | title = Nuptse
{{cite journal | title = Nuptse
| author = Walmsley, Joe | pages = 209–234
| author = Walmsley, Joe | pages = 209–234
| work = [[Alpine Journal]] | publisher = Alpine Club | year = 1961
| journal = [[Alpine Journal]] | publisher = Alpine Club | year = 1961
| url = http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1961_files/AJ%201961%20209-234%20Walmsley%20Nuptse.pdf
| url = http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1961_files/AJ%201961%20209-234%20Walmsley%20Nuptse.pdf
| accessdate = 29 April 2014}}</ref>
| accessdate = 29 April 2014}}</ref>
<ref name=cc_1962>
<ref name=cc_1962>
{{cite journal | title = Nuptse | author = Bonington, Chris | authorlink = Chris Bonington
{{cite journal | title = Nuptse | author = Bonington, Chris | authorlink = Chris Bonington
| work = Journal | publisher = The Climber's Club | year = 1962 | pages = 306–312
| journal = Journal | publisher = The Climber's Club | year = 1962 | pages = 306–312
| volume = XIII | number = 3
| volume = XIII | number = 3
| url = http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/1962%20Journal-p306-312.pdf
| url = http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/1962%20Journal-p306-312.pdf
Line 110: Line 122:


==External links==
==External links==
* [http://www.summitpost.org/parent/150615/nuptse.html Nuptse on Summitpost]
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20050420122932/http://www.peakware.com/encyclopedia/peaks/addapeak662.htm Nuptse on Peakware] - photos
* [https://www.himalayastrek.com/nepal/peak-climbing-in-nepal/ Peak climbing in Nepal]
* Günther Seifferth, [http://www.himalaya-info.org/PDF-Dateien/Nuptse.pdf Nuptse] at himalaya-info.org.
* Günther Seifferth, [http://www.himalaya-info.org/PDF-Dateien/Nuptse.pdf Nuptse] at himalaya-info.org.
{{Mount Everest}}
{{Mount Everest}}
⚫
{{Commons|Nuptse}}


{{Authority control}}
{{Authority control}}


[[Category:Mountains of Nepal]]
[[Category:Mountains of Nepal]]
[[Category:Seven-thousanders of the Himalayas]]
[[Category:Seven-thousanders]]
[[Category:Locations near Mount Everest]]
[[Category:Mountains of the Province No. 1]]

Latest revision as of 20:45, 21 December 2024

Nuptse
Nuptse from Kala Patthar
Highest point
Elevation7,861 m (25,791 ft)
Prominence319 m (1,047 ft)
ListingList of mountains in Nepal
Coordinates27°57′59″N 86°53′24″E / 27.9664°N 86.89°E / 27.9664; 86.89
Naming
Native nameནུབ་རྩེ། नुबचे (Sherpa)
English translationWest Peak
Geography
Nuptse is located in Koshi Province
Nuptse
Nuptse
Nuptse is located in Nepal
Nuptse
Nuptse
Nuptse (Nepal)
Nuptse is located in Tibet
Nuptse
Nuptse
Nuptse (Tibet)
Map
About OpenStreetMaps
Maps: terms of use
45km
30miles
Nepal
Pakistan
China
Ngadi Chuli South
45
Ngadi Chuli South
Annapurna IV
Annapurna IV
Himalchuli West
Himalchuli West
Annapurna III
Annapurna III
Silver Crag
Silver Crag
Annapurna Fang
Annapurna Fang
Dhaulagiri IV
Dhaulagiri IV
Molamenqing (Phola Gangchen)
Molamenqing (Phola Gangchen)
Hillary Peak (Ngojumba Kang III)
Hillary Peak (Ngojumba Kang III)
Gurla Mandhata (Naimona'nyi, Namu Nan)
Gurla Mandhata (Naimona'nyi, Namu Nan)
Dhaulagiri III
Dhaulagiri III
Ngojumba Kang II
Ngojumba Kang II
Dhaulagiri II
Dhaulagiri II
Kamet
Kamet
Chomo Lonzo (Chomolonzo, Chomolönzo, Chomo Lönzo, Jomolönzo, Lhamalangcho)
Chomo Lonzo (Chomolonzo, Chomolönzo, Chomo Lönzo, Jomolönzo, Lhamalangcho)
Nanda Devi
Nanda Devi
Nuptse (Nubtse)
Nuptse (Nubtse)
Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29, Dakura, Dakum, Dunapurna)
Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29, Dakura, Dakum, Dunapurna)
Himalchuli (Himal Chuli)
Himalchuli (Himal Chuli)
Tenzing Peak (Ngojumba Kang, Ngozumpa Kang, Ngojumba Ri)
Tenzing Peak (Ngojumba Kang, Ngozumpa Kang, Ngojumba Ri)
Annapurna II
Annapurna II
Gyachung Kang
Gyachung Kang
Annapurna I East (Annapurna East Peak)
Annapurna I East (Annapurna East Peak)
Manaslu East
Manaslu East
Shishapangma (Shishasbangma, Xixiabangma)
Shishapangma (Shishasbangma, Xixiabangma)
Annapurna
Annapurna
Nanga Parbat (Diamer)
Nanga Parbat (Diamer)
Manaslu (Kutang)
Manaslu (Kutang)
Dhaulagiri
9
Dhaulagiri
Cho Oyu
8
Cho Oyu
Makalu
5
Makalu
Lhotse
3
Lhotse
Mount Everest
1
Mount Everest
The major peaks (not mountains) above 7,500 m (24,600 ft) height in Himalayas, rank identified in Himalayas alone (not the world).[1] The map may help give context to Nuptse with more detail and zooming on click through.

Legend：
1：Mount Everest,  2：Kangchenjunga,  3：Lhotse,  4：Yalung Kang, Kanchenjunga West,  5：Makalu,  6：Kangchenjunga South,  7：Kangchenjunga Central,  8：Cho Oyu,  9：Dhaulagiri,  10：Manaslu (Kutang),  11：Nanga Parbat (Diamer) ,  12：Annapurna,  13：Shishapangma (Shishasbangma, Xixiabangma),  14：Manaslu East,  15：Annapurna East Peak,  16： Gyachung Kang,  17：Annapurna II ,  18：Tenzing Peak (Ngojumba Kang, Ngozumpa Kang, Ngojumba Ri),  19：Kangbachen,  20：Himalchuli (Himal Chuli),  21：Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29, Dakura, Dakum, Dunapurna),  22：Nuptse (Nubtse),  23：Nanda Devi,  24：Chomo Lonzo (Chomolonzo, Chomolönzo, Chomo Lönzo, Jomolönzo, Lhamalangcho),  25：Namcha Barwa (Namchabarwa),  26：Zemu Kang (Zemu Gap Peak),  27：Kamet,  28：Dhaulagiri II,  29：Ngojumba Kang II,  30：Dhaulagiri III,  31：Kumbhakarna Mountain (Mount Kumbhakarna, Jannu),  32：Gurla Mandhata (Naimona'nyi, Namu Nan) ,  33：Hillary Peak (Ngojumba Kang III),  34：Molamenqing (Phola Gangchen),  35：Dhaulagiri IV,  36：Annapurna Fang,  37：Silver Crag,  38：Kangbachen Southwest,  39：Gangkhar Puensum (Gangkar Punsum),  40：Annapurna III,  41：Himalchuli West,  42：Annapurna IV,  43：Kula Kangri,  44：Liankang Kangri (Gangkhar Puensum North, Liangkang Kangri),  45：Ngadi Chuli South

 
Parent rangeMahalangur Himal, Himalayas
Climbing
First ascent1961 by a British team led by Joe Walmsley
Easiest routesnow/ice climb
Nuptse
Chinese努子峰
Transcriptions

Nuptse or Nubtse (Sherpa: ནུབ་རྩེ། नुबचे, Wylie: Nub rtse, Chinese: 努子峰) is a mountain in the Khumbu region of the Mahalangur Himal, in the Nepalese Himalayas. It lies 2 km (1.2 mi) WSW of Mount Everest. The main peak, Nuptse I at an elevation of 7,861 m (25,791 ft), was first climbed on May 16, 1961, by Dennis Davis and Sherpa Tashi.[2][3] After a hiatus of almost 20 years, Nuptse again became the objective of mountaineers, with important routes being put up on its west, south, and north faces.

Name

[edit]

Nuptse is Tibetan for "west peak", as it is the western segment of the Lhotse-Nuptse massif.[4]

Geography

[edit]

Nuptse lies 2 km (1.2 mi) WSW of Mount Everest. It is a dramatic peak when viewed from the south or west, and it towers above the base camp for the standard south col route on Everest. However, it is not a particularly independent peak: its topographic prominence is only 319 m (1,047 ft). Hence it is not ranked in the list of highest mountains.[citation needed]

The main Nuptse ridge contains 7 summits:

Summit Elevation Latitude (N) Longitude (E)
Nuptse I 7,861 m (25,791 ft) 27°57′59″ 86°53′24″
Nuptse II 7,827 m (25,679 ft) 27°57′52″ 86°53′34″
Nuptse Shar I 7,804 m (25,604 ft) 27°57′41″ 86°53′47″
Nuptse Nup I 7,784 m (25,538 ft) 27°58′05″ 86°53′08″
Nuptse Shar II 7,776 m (25,512 ft) 27°57′39″ 86°53′55″
Nuptse Nup II 7,742 m (25,400 ft) 27°58′06″ 86°52′54″
Nuptse Shar III 7,695 m (25,246 ft) 27°57′30″ 86°54′42″
Chomo LonzoMakaluEverestTibetan PlateauRong River (Tibet)ChangtseRongbuk GlacierNorth Face (Everest)East Rongbuk GlacierNorth Col north ridge routeLhotseNuptseSouth Col routeGyachung KangCho OyuFile:Himalaya annotated.jpg
Southern and northern climbing routes as seen from the International Space Station. (The names on the photo are links to corresponding pages.)

Climbing

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Nuptse on the right, Everest to the left
Nuptse from Chukhung Ri

Nuptse was first climbed in 1961 and a few times thereafter.

  • 1961 - First ascent of the North Ridge on May 16 by Dennis Davis and Sherpa Tashi as part of a British expedition led by Joe Walmsley. Tashi was the first human to set foot on the summit as Davis waited to take photos. Davis followed closely after Tashi.[5] On May 17, other members of the same expedition reached the summit: Chris Bonington, Les Brown, James Swallow and Pemba Sherpa.[2][3]
  • 1976 - The Joint British Army-Royal Nepalese Army Nuptse Expedition in an attempt to be the second team atop Nuptse ended in tragedy with the loss of four climbers to falls.[6]
  • 1979 - Ascent of the North Ridge on October 19 by Georges Bettembourg, Doug Scott, Alan Rouse and Brian Hall.[7][8]
  • 1984 - First ascent of the West Ridge by Yvan Estienne, Rémi Roux, et al., an expedition led by Raymond Renaud.
  • 1994 - First ascent of the south pillar of Nuptse Shar I by Frenchmen Michel Fauquet and Vincent Fine, who were stopped by the wind on the summit ridge 300 m (980 ft) from the summit. The climb was nominated for a Piolets d'Or.[9]
  • 1997 - Nuptse - Nup II (7742 m) - on top: Tomaž Humar, Janez Jeglič
  • 2008 - Opening of the south face by Stéphane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz; nominated for the Piolets d'Or in 2008.
  • 2017 - Frédéric Degoulet, Benjamin Guigonnet and Hélias Millerioux open a route on the south face.[10]
  • 2023 - On 8 May, a team of 3 climbers from the US and 6 Sherpas were the first to reach the summit in the year. It is reported that at least 65 climbers in 6 teams have obtained permits for Nuptse.[11]

In culture

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In 1987, Sally McCoy, Director of Equipment at The North Face, an American outdoor recreation products company, was part of the Snowbird Everest Expedition. This inspired The North Face to create outerwear named after peaks and glaciers of the region. In 1992, the company introduced the Nuptse Jacket. It featured a novel baffle construction to reduce shifting of the down and to increase warmth.[12] The Nuptse jacket in bright colours was popular in New York City in the 1990s, especially among school kids and rappers.[13] The Nuptse line of outdoors clothing has expanded to over 60 items in 2023.[14]

See also

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  • Ueli Steck, Swiss alpinist who died falling from Nuptse

References

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Wikimedia Commons has media related to Nuptse.
  1. ^ "Peak Bagger:Himalaya, Central Nepal Himalaya, Khumbu, Ghurka Himal, Annapurna Himal, Xishapangma Area, Sikkim-Eastern Nepal Himalaya, Western Nepal Himalaya, Assam Himalaya, Punjab Himalaya, Bhutan Himalaya, Garwhal Himalaya, Ganesh Himal". Retrieved 22 October 2024.
  2. ^ a b Walmsley, Joe (1961). "Nuptse" (PDF). Alpine Journal. Alpine Club: 209–234. Retrieved 29 April 2014.
  3. ^ a b Bonington, Chris (1962). "Nuptse" (PDF). Journal. XIII (3). The Climber's Club: 306–312. Retrieved 29 April 2014.
  4. ^ "Nuptse". summitpost.org. 2003. Retrieved 4 November 2023.
  5. ^ Davis, D. (1961). "Nuptse: Part II Summit". The Himalayan Journal. 23 (1).
  6. ^ "AAC Publications - Asia, Nepal, Nuptse Tragedy". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-06-13.
  7. ^ Blanchard, B. (1 June 2023). "A Mountain Apart". Alpinist Magazine. Summer 2023 (82): 50–75.
  8. ^ Hall, Brian (2022-07-21). "Epic Descent From Nuptse". Climbing. Retrieved 2024-06-13.
  9. ^ "Piolets d'Or - 1992 - 2021". pioletsdor.net. Retrieved 2024-06-13.
  10. ^ Franz, D. (2017). "French team completes new route on Nuptse's south face". Alpinist.com Newswire. Retrieved 4 November 2023.
  11. ^ "HG climbers make season's first summit on Nuptse". The Himalayan Times. 8 May 2023. Retrieved 5 November 2023.
  12. ^ Kollat, M. (30 November 2022). "The North Face relaunches the exact replica of its most famous jacket". T3. Retrieved 4 November 2023.
  13. ^ Takanashi, L. (31 October 2018). "How The North Face Took Over '90s New York". The Cut. Retrieved 5 November 2023.
  14. ^ "The North Face Nuptse Collection of Jackets, Vests, and More". The North Face. 2023. Retrieved 4 November 2023.
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