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{{short description|Canadian creative director, activist, poet and fashion designer}} |
{{short description|Canadian creative director, activist, poet and fashion designer}} |
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| name = Aurora James |
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| image = Aurora James - 2024 (cropped).jpg |
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| birth_date = {{birth year and age|1984}} |
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| birth_place = [[Guelph]], [[Ontario]], Canada |
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| known_for = Fashion design |
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| notable_works = [[15 Percent Pledge]] |
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| awards = 2020 [[50 Most Influential (Bloomberg ranking)|The Bloomberg 50]]<br />2021 [[Time 100|''Time'' 100]] |
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| website = {{URL|https://brothervellies.com/}} |
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'''Aurora James''' |
'''Aurora James''' is a Canadian creative director, [[activist]], and [[fashion designer]]. In 2013, she founded the fashion label Brother Vellies, with the goal of promoting traditional African design practices and techniques. In 2020, James founded the [[15 Percent Pledge]] as a non-profit organization to support [[Black-owned businesses]]. Her memoir ''Wildflower'' was released in 2023. |
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== Early life == |
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In 2020, James founded the 15 Percent Pledge as a non-profit group with the support of James Higa. On June 10, 2020, [[Sephora]] was announced publicly as the first business to sign on to the 15 Percent Pledge.<ref name="Maheshwari">{{Cite news|last=Maheshwari|first=Sapna|date=June 10, 2020|title=Sephora Signs '15 Percent Pledge' to Carry More Black-Owned Brands|language=en-US|work=The New York Times|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2020/06/10/business/sephora-black-owned-brands.html|access-date=2020-08-17|issn=0362-4331}}</ref> |
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⚫ | James was born to a [[Ghanaian]] father and a Canadian mother in [[Guelph]], [[Ontario]], Canada.<ref name="Okwudo">{{cite news |last1=Okwudo |first1=Janelle |title=Aurora James on Fashion, Feminism, and the Fifteen Percent Pledge |url=https://www.vogue.com/article/aurora-james-september-issue-2020-15-percent-pledge |access-date=16 December 2020 |work=VOGUE |date=August 26, 2020}}</ref><ref name="Segran 2021"/> Her childhood was split between Canada and [[Jamaica]].<ref name="Okwudo"/><ref name="Holman">{{cite news |last1=Holman |first1=Jordyn |title=Aurora James, the Founder Seeking Shelf Space |url=https://www.bloomberg.com/news/features/2020-12-03/aurora-james-founder-of-fifteen-percent-pledge-foundation-bloomberg-50-2020 |access-date=16 December 2020 |work=Bloomberg |date=December 7, 2020}}</ref> In 2010, James relocated to [[Los Angeles]] and later to [[New York City]]. |
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James lives and works in [[Brooklyn, New York]]. |
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==Career and brand== |
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⚫ | After traveling across Africa<ref name="Zarella">{{Cite news|last=Zarrella|first=Katharine K.|date=June 12, 2020|title=Meet Aurora James, a Designer Advocating for Black-Owned Businesses|language=en-US|work=Wall Street Journal|url=https://www.wsj.com/articles/meet-aurora-james-a-designer-advocating-for-black-owned-businesses-11591977188|access-date=August 17, 2018|issn=0099-9660}}</ref> in 2011, James spent the next few years experimenting with design, testing designs at local markets in New York and working with various artisan groups.<ref name="Okwudo" /> She launched Brother Vellies in January 2013,<ref name="Zarella" /> started with $3,500 in savings,<ref name="Holman" /> with a goal of promoting the work of African artisans.<ref name="Segran 2021" /> The first formal Brother Vellies collection was produced for the spring 2014 season and was created entirely with shoemakers in South Africa. James later expanded to working in other countries within Africa and beyond, including Mexico and Honduras, to continue producing desert boots, shoes, slippers, and sandals.<ref name="Milch">{{cite web |last1=Milch |first1=Nora |title=Brother Vellies' Aurora James Just Wants Women to be Comfortable in their Shoes |url=https://www.wmagazine.com/story/brother-vellies-aurora-james-accessories-interview/ |website=[[W (magazine)|W]]|date=March 25, 2016 |access-date=16 December 2020}}</ref><ref name="Segran 2021" /> |
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⚫ | James was born to a |
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⚫ | In 2020, James was featured on the cover of the September issue of ''[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]'' magazine, in a portrait by [[Jordan Casteel]].<ref name="Laing">{{cite news |last1=Laing |first1=Sarah |title=Why Aurora James being on Vogue's September cover is so significant |url=https://www.thestar.com/life/fashion_style/2020/08/25/why-aurora-james-being-on-vogues-september-cover-is-so-significant.html |access-date=17 December 2020 |work=The Toronto Star |date=August 25, 2020}}</ref><ref name="Kazanjian">{{cite news |last1=Kazanjian |first1=Dodie |title=The Making of Vogue's September 2020 Covers |url=https://www.vogue.com/article/september-issue-cover-2020-global-hope |access-date=25 December 2020 |work=Vogue |date=August 25, 2020}}</ref> |
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⚫ | After traveling across Africa<ref name="Zarella">{{Cite news|last=Zarrella|first=Katharine K.|date=June 12, 2020|title=Meet Aurora James, a Designer Advocating for Black-Owned Businesses|language=en-US|work=Wall Street Journal|url=https://www.wsj.com/articles/meet-aurora-james-a-designer-advocating-for-black-owned-businesses-11591977188|access-date=August 17, 2018|issn=0099-9660}}</ref> |
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In 2021 after James' dress with a message "Tax the Rich” across the back in big red lettering was worn by [[Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez]] at the 2021 [[Met Gala]]<ref name="Testa 2021">{{cite news |last1=Testa |first1=Jessica |title=A.O.C.’s Met Gala Designer Explains Her ‘Tax the Rich’ Dress |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2021/09/16/style/aoc-designer-tax-the-rich-dress.html |access-date=12 February 2022 |work=[[The New York Times]] |date=September 22, 2021}}</ref><ref name="Abel 2021">{{cite news |last1=Abel |first1=Katie |title=Everyone's Talking About AOC's 'Tax the Rich' Dress, But Aurora James' Designs Have Been Making Powerful Statements for Years |url=https://www.yahoo.com/lifestyle/everyone-talking-aoc-tax-rich-155706167.html |access-date=14 September 2021 |work=[[Footwear News]] |publisher=Yahoo News |date=September 14, 2021}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |title=The Best Met Gala 2021 Red Carpet Photos |url=https://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2021/09/13/style/met-gala-photos-red-carpet/ |access-date=14 September 2021 |work=The New York Times |date=September 13, 2021 |quote=Representative Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez of New York sent a message with her gown by Aurora James. The back of her dress was emblazoned with the words "Tax the Rich" in red. Her bag had the same phrase.}}</ref><ref name="Segran 2021">{{cite news |last1=Segran |first1=Elizabeth |title=Meet the visionary designer behind AOC's Tax the Rich dress |url=https://www.fastcompany.com/90676272/meet-the-visionary-designer-behind-aocs-tax-the-rich-dress |access-date=14 September 2021 |work=[[Fast Company]] |date=September 14, 2021}}</ref> several news outlets reported on the tax debt of James' company, totaling six figures, along with multiple warrants issued across various states. These reports ignited controversy and accusations of hypocrisy regarding James' political stance. <ref name="tax-debt">{{cite news |last1=Levine |first1=Jon |last2=Boniello |first2=Kathianne |title=AOC’s ‘Tax the Rich’ dress designer Aurora James owes debt in multiple states |url=https://nypost.com/2021/09/18/aocs-tax-the-rich-dress-designer-aurora-james-is-a-tax-deadbeat/ |access-date=14 September 2024 |work=New York Post |date=18 September 2021}}</ref> |
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In 2022, she was unanimously elected as a Vice Chair of the CFDA.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web |title=CFDA |url=https://cfda.com/news/the-cfda-board-elects-new-vice-chairs-treasurer-secretary |access-date=2024-02-03 |website=cfda.com}}</ref> |
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⚫ | In 2020, James was featured on the cover of the September issue of ''[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]'' magazine, in a portrait by [[Jordan Casteel]].<ref name="Laing">{{cite news |last1=Laing |first1=Sarah |title=Why Aurora James being on |
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In 2023, James was presented the Honorary [[Clio Awards|Clio Award]].<ref>{{Cite web |date=2023-06-12 |title=Creativity in Conversation: A Q&A with 2023 Honorary Clio Award Recipient Aurora James |url=https://clios.com/content/creativity-conversation-qa-2023-honorary-clio-award-recipient-aurora-james |access-date=2024-02-14 |website=Clios |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=2023-06-12 |title=Honorary Award Recipient |url=https://clios.com/the-muse/clio-awards-female-quotient-honoray-award-presentation |access-date=2024-02-14 |website=Clios |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Citation |title=Creativity in Conversation: A Q&A with 2023 Honorary Clio Award Recipient Aurora James |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54gDTivwDd0 |access-date=2024-02-14 |language=en}}</ref> |
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⚫ | Brother Vellies has been worn by activists, celebrities, artists and musicians, including [[Beyoncé]],<ref name="Zarella" /> [[Solange Knowles]],<ref>{{Cite news|last1=Salam|first1=Maya|last2=Bromwich|first2=Jonah Engel|last3=Safronova|first3=Valeriya|last4=Shutler|first4=Natalie|date=2018-06-28|title=Met Gala 2018: See Photos From the Red Carpet|language=en-US|work=The New York Times|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2018/05/07/fashion/met-gala-red-carpet.html|access-date=2020-08-17|issn=0362-4331}}</ref> [[Nicki Minaj]],<ref name="Ho">{{cite news |last1=Ho |first1=Jason |title=How Canadian designer Aurora James is persuading retailers to support Black-owned businesses |url=https://www.cbc.ca/news/business/aurora-james-interview-the-national-1.5804670 |access-date=17 December 2020 |work=CBC News |date=November 19, 2020}}</ref> and [[Elaine Welteroth]].<ref name="Regensdorf">{{cite news |last1=Laura |first1=Regensdorf |title=Aurora James on This |
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⚫ | Brother Vellies has been worn by activists, celebrities, artists and musicians, including [[Beyoncé]],<ref name="Zarella" /> [[Solange Knowles]],<ref>{{Cite news|last1=Salam|first1=Maya|last2=Bromwich|first2=Jonah Engel|last3=Safronova|first3=Valeriya|last4=Shutler|first4=Natalie|date=2018-06-28|title=Met Gala 2018: See Photos From the Red Carpet|language=en-US|work=[[The New York Times]]|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2018/05/07/fashion/met-gala-red-carpet.html|access-date=2020-08-17|issn=0362-4331}}</ref> [[Nicki Minaj]],<ref name="Ho">{{cite news |last1=Ho |first1=Jason |title=How Canadian designer Aurora James is persuading retailers to support Black-owned businesses |url=https://www.cbc.ca/news/business/aurora-james-interview-the-national-1.5804670 |access-date=17 December 2020 |work=CBC News |date=November 19, 2020}}</ref> and [[Elaine Welteroth]].<ref name="Regensdorf">{{cite news |last1=Laura |first1=Regensdorf |title=Aurora James on This Week's Big Win for the 15 Percent Pledge and Black-Owned Brands |url=https://www.vanityfair.com/style/2020/06/aurora-james-15-percent-pledge-sephora-black-owned-brands |access-date=17 December 2020 |magazine=Vanity Fair |date=June 12, 2020}}</ref> |
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==The 15 Percent Pledge== |
==The 15 Percent Pledge== |
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{{Main|15 Percent Pledge}} |
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⚫ | In 2020, in the wake of the murder of [[George Floyd]] and the wave of [[Black Lives Matter]] activism that followed, James launched an initiative called the [[15 Percent Pledge]],<ref name="Kent">{{cite web |last1=Kent |first1=Sarah |last2=Lieber |first2=Chavie |title=Designer Aurora James Calls on Retailers to Commit to Black-Owned Businesses |url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/retail/george-floyd-minneapolis-black-fashion-designers-aurora-james |website=Business of Fashion |date=May 31, 2020 |access-date=16 December 2020}}</ref><ref name="Robinson">{{cite news |last1=Robinson |first1=Roxanne |title=Aurora James, The Designer Behind The #15PercentPledge, On Supporting Black-Owned Businesses Long Term |url=https://www.forbes.com/sites/roxannerobinson/2020/06/16/aurora-james-the-designer-behind-the-15percentpledge-on-supporting-black-owned-businesses-long-term/?sh=6fa1492da34d |access-date=16 December 2020 |work=Forbes |date=June 16, 2020}}</ref> with an [[Instagram]] post on May 29 that ''[[Vogue (magazine)|Vogue]]'' writes "immediately went viral and resulted in an outpouring of interest."<ref name="Okwudo" /> The 15 Percent Pledge Foundation was then created as a non-profit organization to urge major retailers to commit 15 percent of their shelf-space to Black-owned businesses.<ref name="Holman" /><ref name="Rougeau">{{cite web |last1=Rougeau |first1=Naomi |title=How Aurora James Took the 15 Percent Pledge From an Instagram Post to a 501(c)(3) |url=https://www.elle.com/fashion/a33966286/aurora-james-15-percent-pledge/ |website=[[Elle (magazine)|Elle]] |access-date=16 December 2020 |date=September 15, 2020}}</ref> The foundation offers large corporations accountability and strategy suggestions<ref>{{cite web |title=Interested in taking the Pledge? |url=https://www.15percentpledge.org/pledge |website=Fifteen Percent Pledge |access-date=16 December 2020}}</ref> as well as consulting services.<ref name="Rougeau" /> The goal of the foundation is to advocate on behalf of Black-owned businesses and to build generational wealth in Black communities;<ref name="Duffy">{{cite news |last1=Duffy |first1=Clare |title=15% Pledge calls on Target, Whole Foods and other retailers to dedicate shelf space to black-owned businesses |url=https://www.cnn.com/2020/06/07/business/15-percent-pledge-black-owned-businesses/index.html |access-date=17 December 2020 |work=CNN Business |date=June 7, 2020}}</ref> according to its website, the initiative "was born from seeing multiple acts of social injustice and police brutality in the United States, with a lack of corporate accountability for the systemic issues at play."<ref>{{cite web |title=FAQ for businesses |url=https://www.15percentpledge.org/faq |website=Fifteen Percent Pledge |access-date=16 December 2020}}</ref> |
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===Foundation=== |
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⚫ | ''[[Time (magazine)|Time]]'' magazine writes that James wanted to "find a way that companies could make a tangible change", and "from there, the 15 Percent Pledge was born." Cam Wolf writes in ''[[GQ]]'' magazine that "James is careful to note that the 15 Percent Pledge is not the only solution", and that James said, "This is a really tough time for everyone, and people shopping is by no means going to ease the pain of the lives that we have lost ... There are also a lot of other things that we need people to be doing, like donating to [[bail fund]]s."<ref>{{Cite web|last=Wolf|first=Cam|title=This Initiative Could Direct Billions of Dollars to Black-Owned Businesses|url=https://www.gq.com/story/15-percent-pledge|access-date=2021-03-22|website=GQ|language=en-us}}</ref> |
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⚫ | In 2020, James launched an initiative called the 15 Percent Pledge,<ref name="Kent">{{cite web |last1=Kent |first1=Sarah |last2=Lieber |first2=Chavie |title=Designer Aurora James Calls on Retailers to Commit to Black-Owned Businesses |url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/retail/george-floyd-minneapolis-black-fashion-designers-aurora-james |website=Business of Fashion |date=May 31, 2020 |access-date=16 December 2020}}</ref><ref name="Robinson">{{cite news |last1=Robinson |first1=Roxanne |title=Aurora James, The Designer Behind The #15PercentPledge, On Supporting Black-Owned Businesses Long Term |url=https://www.forbes.com/sites/roxannerobinson/2020/06/16/aurora-james-the-designer-behind-the-15percentpledge-on-supporting-black-owned-businesses-long-term/?sh=6fa1492da34d |access-date=16 December 2020 |work=Forbes |date=June 16, 2020}}</ref> with an [[Instagram]] post on May 29 that ''[[Vogue (magazine) |
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==Memoir== |
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The murder of [[George Floyd]] sparked a wave of activism for the [[Black Lives Matter]] movement and renewed calls for the end of the systemic racism in America, as well as social justice reform, and economic and social equality; James told ''[[Time (magazine) | TIME Magazine]]'' in August 2020, "I was watching Black-owned businesses literally shutter before my very eyes while I was also seeing these major retailers say, ‘We stand with you,’" ... "And the reality is that you actually don’t."<ref name="Cachero">{{cite news |last1=Cachero |first1=Paulina |title=Fashion Entrepreneur Aurora James: 'We Need to Support Black-Owned Businesses. Period.' |url=https://time.com/5878267/aurora-james-time100-talks/ |access-date=16 December 2020 |work=TIME Magazine |date=August 11, 2020}}</ref> ''TIME Magazine'' writes that James wanted to "find a way that companies could make a tangible change," and "from there, the 15 Percent Pledge was born."<ref name="Cachero" /> |
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In May 2023, James' memoir ''Wildflower'' was released.<ref name="Kirkus">{{cite news |title=WILDFLOWER |url=https://www.kirkusreviews.com/book-reviews/aurora-james/wildflower-james/ |access-date=28 August 2023 |work=[[Kirkus Reviews]] |date=March 1, 2023 |language=en}}</ref> According to a review in ''[[Kirkus Reviews]]'', "Throughout the text, James is vulnerable and frank, cultivating a narrative voice that is both intimate and captivating; on the line level, her language is impressively lyrical."<ref name="Kirkus"/> The review also called ''Wildflower,'' "A well-written, profoundly empathetic memoir from an entrepreneur with a very bright future."<ref>{{Cite book |url=https://www.kirkusreviews.com/book-reviews/aurora-james/wildflower-james/ |title=WILDFLOWER {{!}} Kirkus Reviews |language=en}}</ref> |
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Bianca Betancourt writes in ''[[Harper's Bazaar]]'', "James doesn't hold back. She movingly intertwines memories of her youth with deeply honest accounts of the life she leads today as a designer and entrepreneur."<ref>{{cite news |last1=Betancourt |first1=Bianca |title=Aurora James Has Never Claimed to Be Perfect |url=https://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/art-books-music/a43723428/aurora-james-wildflower-memoir-interview/ |access-date=28 August 2023 |work=[[Harper's Bazaar]] |date=9 May 2023}}</ref> |
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The goal of the foundation is to advocate on behalf of Black-owned businesses and to build generational wealth in black communities;<ref name="Duffy">{{cite news |last1=Duffy |first1=Clare |title=15% Pledge calls on Target, Whole Foods and other retailers to dedicate shelf space to black-owned businesses |url=https://www.cnn.com/2020/06/07/business/15-percent-pledge-black-owned-businesses/index.html |access-date=17 December 2020 |work=CNN Business |date=June 7, 2020}}</ref> according to its website, the initiative "was born from seeing multiple acts of social injustice and police brutality in the United States, with a lack of corporate accountability for the systemic issues at play."<ref>{{cite web |title=FAQ for businesses |url=https://www.15percentpledge.org/faq |website=Fifteen Percent Pledge |access-date=16 December 2020}}</ref> ''[[BET]]'' writes that James started an Instagram account for the 15 Percent Pledge and "tagged a series of larger retailers highlighting the disparity in business loans, wages, and the long-term effects of the pandemic on Black-owned businesses."<ref name="Urquhart">{{cite news |last1=Urquhart |first1=Tira |title=Shoe Designer Aurora James Challenges The Fashion Community With "15% Pledge" To Demand Support Of Black-Owned Businesses |url=https://www.bet.com/style/fashion/2020/06/11/brother-vellies-aurora-james-15-percent-pledge.html |access-date=16 December 2020 |work=BET |date=June 10, 2020}}</ref> ''[[Reuters]]'' reports the foundation conducted audits of retailers, including [[Target Corporation | Target]], [[Whole Foods Market | Whole Foods]], [[Nordstrom]], and [[Neiman Marcus]], and found "Black-owned businesses currently constitute on average just 1% of U.S. retailers' supplier base."<ref name="Waldersee">{{cite news |last1=Waldersee |first1=Victoria |title=Yelp joins 15 Percent Pledge to increase representation of Black-owned businesses |url=https://www.reuters.com/article/us-global-race-yelp-idUSKBN25R231 |access-date=17 December 2020 |work=Reuters |date=August 31, 2020}}</ref> |
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Cat Woods writes in ''[[The New York Observer|Observer]]'', "While reading ''Wildflower'', it can sometimes be hard to see how James conjured up the resolve and determination to carry on in an industry notoriously defined by privilege, exploitation and savage competition."<ref>{{cite news |last1=Woods |first1=Cat |title=Aurora James Is Breaking the Fairytale Founder Memoir Mold |url=https://observer.com/2023/05/aurora-james-memoir-wildflower-review/ |access-date=28 August 2023 |work=[[The New York Observer|Observer]] |date=8 May 2023}}</ref> In ''[[Fashionista (website)|Fashionista]]'', Andrea Bossi writes, "Sure, a fashion lover can appreciate how James takes the reader through learning about the footwear trade, but the book speaks to a broader audience. Specifically, it appeals to anyone who has ever questioned their path and purpose, especially women and women of color."<ref>{{cite news |last1=Bossi |first1=Andrea |title=There's Something for Everyone to Learn in Aurora James' Memoir |url=https://fashionista.com/2023/05/aurora-james-wildflower-memoir-book-interview |access-date=28 August 2023 |work=[[Fashionista (website)|Fashionista]] |date=22 May 2023 |language=en}}</ref> |
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===Development=== |
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Businesses including [[Sephora]], [[Rent the Runway|Rent The Runway]], West Elm, and [[MedMen]],<ref name="Cachero" /> as well as [[Macy's]], Indigo Books & Music in Toronto, [[Yelp]], the U.S. edition of [[Condé Nast]]’s ''Vogue'',<ref name="Holman" /> Macy's subsidiaries [[Bloomingdale's]] and [[Bluemercury]], and ''[[InStyle]]'' magazine<ref>{{cite web |last1=Fernandez |first1=Chantal |title=Macy’s Inc. and InStyle Join 15 Percent Pledge to Support Black-Owned Brands |url=https://www.businessoffashion.com/news/retail/macys-inc-and-instyle-join-15-percent-pledge-to-support-black-owned-brands |website=Business of Fashion |access-date=17 December 2020 |date=November 23, 2020}}</ref> have signed on to the 15 Percent Pledge. |
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⚫ | * 2015 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund – Winner<ref>{{Cite web|last=Codinha|first=Alessandra|title=Breaking News! Brother Vellies, Gypsy Sport, and Jonathan Simkhai to Share 2015 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Win|url=https://www.vogue.com/article/2015-cfda-vogue-fashion-fund-winners-brother-vellies-gypsy-sport-jonathan-simkhai|access-date=2020-08-17|website=Vogue|language=en-us}}</ref> |
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''[[The New York Times]]'' writes Sephora also "said it would provide connections and support to black-owned businesses from funders and venture capitalists and evolve its existing incubation programs to 'focus on women of color,'" and this is an example of the type of longer-lasting change sought by the 15 Percent Pledge.<ref name="Maheshwari" /> Sephora also said it would create an advisory group that includes James and other leaders of brands owned by people of color to help Sephora make changes.<ref name="Maheshwari" /> |
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⚫ | Cam Wolf writes in ''[[GQ]]'' magazine that "James is careful to note that the 15 Percent Pledge is not the only solution |
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In September 2020, James asked Canadian retailers to take the 15 Percent Pledge in a ''[[Toronto Star]]'' opinion article,<ref name="James TS">{{cite news |last1=James |first1=Aurora |title=Black and Indigenous creators are missing from the shelves of Canadian retailers — the 15 Percent Pledge aims to fix that |url=https://www.thestar.com/business/opinion/2020/09/27/black-and-indigenous-creators-are-missing-from-the-shelves-of-canadian-retailers-the-15-percent-pledge-aims-to-fix-that.html |access-date=17 December 2020 |work=The Toronto Star |date=September 27, 2020}}</ref> and ''[[CBC News]]'' reports "James said the Canadian effort was launched partly in response to feedback she got from Canadians who got in touch as a result of the U.S. campaign to say that retailers such as [[Hudson's Bay Company | Hudson's Bay]] and [[Holt Renfrew]] can do better."<ref name="Weikle">{{cite news |last1=Weikle |first1=Brandie |title=Campaign to promote BIPOC-owned brands calls on Canadian retailers to take '15 Percent Pledge' |url=https://www.cbc.ca/news/business/15-per-cent-pledge-canada-1.5626943 |access-date=17 December 2020 |work=CBC News |date=June 25, 2020}}</ref> |
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==Awards & Honors== |
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⚫ | * 2015 CFDA |
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* 2016 Inductee to the [[Council of Fashion Designers of America]] (CFDA)<ref name="CFDA Profile">{{cite web |title=Aurora James Profile |url=https://cfda.com/members/profile/aurora-james-brother-vellies |website=CFDA |access-date=17 December 2020}}</ref> |
* 2016 Inductee to the [[Council of Fashion Designers of America]] (CFDA)<ref name="CFDA Profile">{{cite web |title=Aurora James Profile |url=https://cfda.com/members/profile/aurora-james-brother-vellies |website=CFDA |access-date=17 December 2020}}</ref> |
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* 2016 CFDA Awards, Swarovski Award for Accessory Design – Nominee<ref>{{cite web |title=The 2016 CFDA Fashion Awards Nominees and Honorees |url=https://cfda.com/news/the-2016-cfda-fashion-awards-nominees-honorees |website=CFDA |access-date=17 December 2020 |date=March 17, 2016}}</ref> |
* 2016 CFDA Awards, Swarovski Award for Accessory Design – Nominee<ref>{{cite web |title=The 2016 CFDA Fashion Awards Nominees and Honorees |url=https://cfda.com/news/the-2016-cfda-fashion-awards-nominees-honorees |website=CFDA |access-date=17 December 2020 |date=March 17, 2016}}</ref> |
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* 2018 CFDA Awards, Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent – Nominee<ref>{{cite web |title=The 2018 CFDA Fashion Awards Nominees & Honorees Are In! |url=https://cfda.com/news/the-2018-cfda-fashion-awards-nominees-honorees-are-in |website=CFDA |access-date=17 December 2020 |date=March 15, 2018}}</ref> |
* 2018 CFDA Awards, Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent – Nominee<ref>{{cite web |title=The 2018 CFDA Fashion Awards Nominees & Honorees Are In! |url=https://cfda.com/news/the-2018-cfda-fashion-awards-nominees-honorees-are-in |website=CFDA |access-date=17 December 2020 |date=March 15, 2018}}</ref> |
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* 2019 [[Planned Parenthood]] Influencer Award<ref name="Greene">{{cite web |last1=Greene |first1=Greg |title=Honoring the Black Women Who Stand Up for Reproductive Health Care |url=https://www.plannedparenthoodaction.org/blog/honoring-the-black-women-who-stand-up-for-reproductive-health-care |website=Planned Parenthood Blog |access-date=17 December 2020 |date=September 21, 2019}}</ref> |
* 2019 [[Planned Parenthood]] Influencer Award<ref name="Greene">{{cite web |last1=Greene |first1=Greg |title=Honoring the Black Women Who Stand Up for Reproductive Health Care |url=https://www.plannedparenthoodaction.org/blog/honoring-the-black-women-who-stand-up-for-reproductive-health-care |website=Planned Parenthood Blog |access-date=17 December 2020 |date=September 21, 2019}}</ref> |
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* 2019 CAFA Award: International Canadian Designer Award – Winner<ref>{{Cite web|last=|first=|date=|title=2019 International Canadian Designer Award Recipient – Aurora James|url=https://www.cafawards.ca/2019/03/18/official-2019-international-canadian-designer-award-recipient/|url-status=live|archive-url=|archive-date=|access-date=2020-08-17|website=www.cafawards.ca}}</ref> |
* 2019 CAFA Award: International Canadian Designer Award – Winner<ref>{{Cite web|last=|first=|date=|title=2019 International Canadian Designer Award Recipient – Aurora James|url=https://www.cafawards.ca/2019/03/18/official-2019-international-canadian-designer-award-recipient/|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200805214250/https://www.cafawards.ca/2019/03/18/official-2019-international-canadian-designer-award-recipient/ |archive-date=2020-08-05 |access-date=2020-08-17|website=www.cafawards.ca}}</ref> |
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* 2019, Crain's New York Business 40 Under 40<ref>{{Cite web|date=2019-03-24|title=40 Under 40 - Aurora James|url=https://www.crainsnewyork.com/awards/40-under-40-2019-aurora-james|access-date=2020-08-17|website=Crain's New York Business|language=en}}</ref> |
* 2019, Crain's New York Business 40 Under 40<ref>{{Cite web|date=2019-03-24|title=40 Under 40 - Aurora James|url=https://www.crainsnewyork.com/awards/40-under-40-2019-aurora-james|access-date=2020-08-17|website=Crain's New York Business|language=en}}</ref> |
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* 2020 [[The Fashion Awards |
* 2020 [[The Fashion Awards|British Fashion Award]], People<ref>{{cite news |title=The Fashion Award 2020 Winners Share Their Hopes for the Future of the Fashion Industry |url=https://www.vogue.com/article/the-fashion-award-2020-winners |access-date=17 December 2020 |work=Vogue |date=December 3, 2020}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |last1=Marriott |first1=Hannah |title=British Fashion Awards: move online heralds different set of priorities |url=https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/dec/03/british-fashion-awards-move-online-heralds-different-set-of-priorities |access-date=17 December 2020 |work=The Guardian |date=December 3, 2020}}</ref> |
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* 2020 |
* 2020 [[50 Most Influential (Bloomberg ranking)|The Bloomberg 50]]<ref>{{cite news |title=Aurora James Brings the Fifteen Percent Pledge to Store Shelves |url=https://www.bloomberg.com/news/videos/2020-12-04/aurora-james-brings-the-fifteen-percent-pledge-to-store-shelves-video |access-date=16 December 2020 |work=Bloomberg BusinessWeek |date=December 4, 2020}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |title=The Bloomberg 50 |url=https://www.bloomberg.com/features/2020-bloomberg-50/ |access-date=17 December 2020 |work=Bloomberg BusinessWeek |date=December 7, 2020}}</ref> |
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* 2020 ''[[Footwear News]]'' Person of the Year<ref name="Butler-Young 2020">{{cite news |last1=Butler-Young |first1=Sheena |title=FNAA Person of the Year Aurora James Is Fashion's Vitamin Supplement — Why It Needs Her Bold, Brilliant Energy Daily |url=https://footwearnews.com/2020/business/awards/aurora-james-fnaa-2020-person-year-2-1203080870/ |access-date=14 September 2021 |work=[[Footwear News]] |date=December 7, 2020}}</ref> |
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* 2021 [[Time 100|''Time'' 100]], ''[[Time (magazine)|Time]]''{{'}}s annual list of the 100 most influential people in the world<ref>{{cite web |last1=Dewberry |first1=Sarah |title=TIME unveils list of 100 most influential people of 2021 |url=https://www.ksby.com/entertainment/time-unveils-list-of-100-most-influential-people-of-2021 |website=[[KSBY]] |access-date=November 11, 2021 |language=en |date=September 16, 2021}}</ref> |
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* 2021 Founder's Award at the CFDA Awards<ref>{{Cite web |date=2021-11-11 |title=Christopher John Rogers And Emily Bode-Aujla Take Top Honora At The CFDA Awards – See All The Winners |url=https://www.vogue.co.uk/news/article/2021-cfda-award-winners |access-date=2024-02-23 |website=British Vogue |language=en-GB}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=2021-11-11 |title=All of the CFDA Fashion Award Winners |url=https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a38223879/cfda-fashion-awards-2021-winners/ |access-date=2024-02-23 |website=Harper's BAZAAR |language=en-US}}</ref> |
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* 2022 ''[[Glamour (magazine)|Glamour]]'' Woman of the Year<ref>{{cite web |last1=Ogunnaike |first1=Lola |title=With the Fifteen Percent Pledge, Aurora James Is Offering Corporate America a Deal |url=https://www.glamour.com/story/aurora-james-glamour-women-of-the-year-2022 |website=[[Glamour (magazine)|Glamour]] |access-date=August 2, 2023 |language=en |date=October 25, 2022}}</ref> |
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* 2022 Vice Chair of the CFDA<ref name=":0" /> |
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* 2023 CAFA Vanguard Award<ref>{{Cite web |date=2023-10-16 |title=Inside the 10th Annual Canadian Arts & Fashion Awards |url=https://www.vogue.com/slideshow/10th-annual-canadian-arts-and-fashion-awards |access-date=2024-02-03 |website=Vogue |language=en-US}}</ref> |
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==References== |
==References== |
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==External links== |
==External links== |
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* [https://brothervellies.com/ Brother Vellies |
* [https://brothervellies.com/ Brother Vellies website] |
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Latest revision as of 00:50, 3 November 2024
Aurora James | |
---|---|
Born | 1984 (age 40–41) |
Known for | Fashion design |
Notable work | 15 Percent Pledge |
Awards | 2020 The Bloomberg 50 2021 Time 100 |
Website | brothervellies |
Aurora James is a Canadian creative director, activist, and fashion designer. In 2013, she founded the fashion label Brother Vellies, with the goal of promoting traditional African design practices and techniques. In 2020, James founded the 15 Percent Pledge as a non-profit organization to support Black-owned businesses. Her memoir Wildflower was released in 2023.
Early life
[edit]James was born to a Ghanaian father and a Canadian mother in Guelph, Ontario, Canada.[1][2] Her childhood was split between Canada and Jamaica.[1][3] In 2010, James relocated to Los Angeles and later to New York City.
Career and brand
[edit]After traveling across Africa[4] in 2011, James spent the next few years experimenting with design, testing designs at local markets in New York and working with various artisan groups.[1] She launched Brother Vellies in January 2013,[4] started with $3,500 in savings,[3] with a goal of promoting the work of African artisans.[2] The first formal Brother Vellies collection was produced for the spring 2014 season and was created entirely with shoemakers in South Africa. James later expanded to working in other countries within Africa and beyond, including Mexico and Honduras, to continue producing desert boots, shoes, slippers, and sandals.[5][2]
In 2015, James began producing handbags for Brother Vellies, the same year she won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund prize.
In 2020, James was featured on the cover of the September issue of Vogue magazine, in a portrait by Jordan Casteel.[6][7]
In 2021 after James' dress with a message "Tax the Rich” across the back in big red lettering was worn by Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez at the 2021 Met Gala[8][9][10][2] several news outlets reported on the tax debt of James' company, totaling six figures, along with multiple warrants issued across various states. These reports ignited controversy and accusations of hypocrisy regarding James' political stance. [11]
In 2022, she was unanimously elected as a Vice Chair of the CFDA.[12]
In 2023, James was presented the Honorary Clio Award.[13][14][15]
Brother Vellies has been worn by activists, celebrities, artists and musicians, including Beyoncé,[4] Solange Knowles,[16] Nicki Minaj,[17] and Elaine Welteroth.[18]
The 15 Percent Pledge
[edit]In 2020, in the wake of the murder of George Floyd and the wave of Black Lives Matter activism that followed, James launched an initiative called the 15 Percent Pledge,[19][20] with an Instagram post on May 29 that Vogue writes "immediately went viral and resulted in an outpouring of interest."[1] The 15 Percent Pledge Foundation was then created as a non-profit organization to urge major retailers to commit 15 percent of their shelf-space to Black-owned businesses.[3][21] The foundation offers large corporations accountability and strategy suggestions[22] as well as consulting services.[21] The goal of the foundation is to advocate on behalf of Black-owned businesses and to build generational wealth in Black communities;[23] according to its website, the initiative "was born from seeing multiple acts of social injustice and police brutality in the United States, with a lack of corporate accountability for the systemic issues at play."[24]
Time magazine writes that James wanted to "find a way that companies could make a tangible change", and "from there, the 15 Percent Pledge was born." Cam Wolf writes in GQ magazine that "James is careful to note that the 15 Percent Pledge is not the only solution", and that James said, "This is a really tough time for everyone, and people shopping is by no means going to ease the pain of the lives that we have lost ... There are also a lot of other things that we need people to be doing, like donating to bail funds."[25]
Memoir
[edit]In May 2023, James' memoir Wildflower was released.[26] According to a review in Kirkus Reviews, "Throughout the text, James is vulnerable and frank, cultivating a narrative voice that is both intimate and captivating; on the line level, her language is impressively lyrical."[26] The review also called Wildflower, "A well-written, profoundly empathetic memoir from an entrepreneur with a very bright future."[27]
Bianca Betancourt writes in Harper's Bazaar, "James doesn't hold back. She movingly intertwines memories of her youth with deeply honest accounts of the life she leads today as a designer and entrepreneur."[28]
Cat Woods writes in Observer, "While reading Wildflower, it can sometimes be hard to see how James conjured up the resolve and determination to carry on in an industry notoriously defined by privilege, exploitation and savage competition."[29] In Fashionista, Andrea Bossi writes, "Sure, a fashion lover can appreciate how James takes the reader through learning about the footwear trade, but the book speaks to a broader audience. Specifically, it appeals to anyone who has ever questioned their path and purpose, especially women and women of color."[30]
Awards and honors
[edit]- 2015 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund – Winner[31]
- 2016 Inductee to the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA)[32]
- 2016 CFDA Awards, Swarovski Award for Accessory Design – Nominee[33]
- 2016 Vogue Talents Award – Winner
- 2016-2018 CFDA Fashion Incubator Member[32]
- 2018 CFDA Awards, Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent – Nominee[34]
- 2019 Planned Parenthood Influencer Award[35]
- 2019 CAFA Award: International Canadian Designer Award – Winner[36]
- 2019, Crain's New York Business 40 Under 40[37]
- 2020 British Fashion Award, People[38][39]
- 2020 The Bloomberg 50[40][41]
- 2020 Footwear News Person of the Year[42]
- 2021 Time 100, Time's annual list of the 100 most influential people in the world[43]
- 2021 Founder's Award at the CFDA Awards[44][45]
- 2022 Glamour Woman of the Year[46]
- 2022 Vice Chair of the CFDA[12]
- 2023 CAFA Vanguard Award[47]
References
[edit]- ^ a b c d Okwudo, Janelle (August 26, 2020). "Aurora James on Fashion, Feminism, and the Fifteen Percent Pledge". VOGUE. Retrieved 16 December 2020.
- ^ a b c d Segran, Elizabeth (September 14, 2021). "Meet the visionary designer behind AOC's Tax the Rich dress". Fast Company. Retrieved 14 September 2021.
- ^ a b c Holman, Jordyn (December 7, 2020). "Aurora James, the Founder Seeking Shelf Space". Bloomberg. Retrieved 16 December 2020.
- ^ a b c Zarrella, Katharine K. (June 12, 2020). "Meet Aurora James, a Designer Advocating for Black-Owned Businesses". Wall Street Journal. ISSN 0099-9660. Retrieved August 17, 2018.
- ^ Milch, Nora (March 25, 2016). "Brother Vellies' Aurora James Just Wants Women to be Comfortable in their Shoes". W. Retrieved 16 December 2020.
- ^ Laing, Sarah (August 25, 2020). "Why Aurora James being on Vogue's September cover is so significant". The Toronto Star. Retrieved 17 December 2020.
- ^ Kazanjian, Dodie (August 25, 2020). "The Making of Vogue's September 2020 Covers". Vogue. Retrieved 25 December 2020.
- ^ Testa, Jessica (September 22, 2021). "A.O.C.'s Met Gala Designer Explains Her 'Tax the Rich' Dress". The New York Times. Retrieved 12 February 2022.
- ^ Abel, Katie (September 14, 2021). "Everyone's Talking About AOC's 'Tax the Rich' Dress, But Aurora James' Designs Have Been Making Powerful Statements for Years". Footwear News. Yahoo News. Retrieved 14 September 2021.
- ^ "The Best Met Gala 2021 Red Carpet Photos". The New York Times. September 13, 2021. Retrieved 14 September 2021.
Representative Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez of New York sent a message with her gown by Aurora James. The back of her dress was emblazoned with the words "Tax the Rich" in red. Her bag had the same phrase.
- ^ Levine, Jon; Boniello, Kathianne (18 September 2021). "AOC's 'Tax the Rich' dress designer Aurora James owes debt in multiple states". New York Post. Retrieved 14 September 2024.
- ^ a b "CFDA". cfda.com. Retrieved 2024-02-03.
- ^ "Creativity in Conversation: A Q&A with 2023 Honorary Clio Award Recipient Aurora James". Clios. 2023-06-12. Retrieved 2024-02-14.
- ^ "Honorary Award Recipient". Clios. 2023-06-12. Retrieved 2024-02-14.
- ^ Creativity in Conversation: A Q&A with 2023 Honorary Clio Award Recipient Aurora James, retrieved 2024-02-14
- ^ Salam, Maya; Bromwich, Jonah Engel; Safronova, Valeriya; Shutler, Natalie (2018-06-28). "Met Gala 2018: See Photos From the Red Carpet". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2020-08-17.
- ^ Ho, Jason (November 19, 2020). "How Canadian designer Aurora James is persuading retailers to support Black-owned businesses". CBC News. Retrieved 17 December 2020.
- ^ Laura, Regensdorf (June 12, 2020). "Aurora James on This Week's Big Win for the 15 Percent Pledge and Black-Owned Brands". Vanity Fair. Retrieved 17 December 2020.
- ^ Kent, Sarah; Lieber, Chavie (May 31, 2020). "Designer Aurora James Calls on Retailers to Commit to Black-Owned Businesses". Business of Fashion. Retrieved 16 December 2020.
- ^ Robinson, Roxanne (June 16, 2020). "Aurora James, The Designer Behind The #15PercentPledge, On Supporting Black-Owned Businesses Long Term". Forbes. Retrieved 16 December 2020.
- ^ a b Rougeau, Naomi (September 15, 2020). "How Aurora James Took the 15 Percent Pledge From an Instagram Post to a 501(c)(3)". Elle. Retrieved 16 December 2020.
- ^ "Interested in taking the Pledge?". Fifteen Percent Pledge. Retrieved 16 December 2020.
- ^ Duffy, Clare (June 7, 2020). "15% Pledge calls on Target, Whole Foods and other retailers to dedicate shelf space to black-owned businesses". CNN Business. Retrieved 17 December 2020.
- ^ "FAQ for businesses". Fifteen Percent Pledge. Retrieved 16 December 2020.
- ^ Wolf, Cam. "This Initiative Could Direct Billions of Dollars to Black-Owned Businesses". GQ. Retrieved 2021-03-22.
- ^ a b "WILDFLOWER". Kirkus Reviews. March 1, 2023. Retrieved 28 August 2023.
- ^ WILDFLOWER | Kirkus Reviews.
- ^ Betancourt, Bianca (9 May 2023). "Aurora James Has Never Claimed to Be Perfect". Harper's Bazaar. Retrieved 28 August 2023.
- ^ Woods, Cat (8 May 2023). "Aurora James Is Breaking the Fairytale Founder Memoir Mold". Observer. Retrieved 28 August 2023.
- ^ Bossi, Andrea (22 May 2023). "There's Something for Everyone to Learn in Aurora James' Memoir". Fashionista. Retrieved 28 August 2023.
- ^ Codinha, Alessandra. "Breaking News! Brother Vellies, Gypsy Sport, and Jonathan Simkhai to Share 2015 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Win". Vogue. Retrieved 2020-08-17.
- ^ a b "Aurora James Profile". CFDA. Retrieved 17 December 2020.
- ^ "The 2016 CFDA Fashion Awards Nominees and Honorees". CFDA. March 17, 2016. Retrieved 17 December 2020.
- ^ "The 2018 CFDA Fashion Awards Nominees & Honorees Are In!". CFDA. March 15, 2018. Retrieved 17 December 2020.
- ^ Greene, Greg (September 21, 2019). "Honoring the Black Women Who Stand Up for Reproductive Health Care". Planned Parenthood Blog. Retrieved 17 December 2020.
- ^ "2019 International Canadian Designer Award Recipient – Aurora James". www.cafawards.ca. Archived from the original on 2020-08-05. Retrieved 2020-08-17.
- ^ "40 Under 40 - Aurora James". Crain's New York Business. 2019-03-24. Retrieved 2020-08-17.
- ^ "The Fashion Award 2020 Winners Share Their Hopes for the Future of the Fashion Industry". Vogue. December 3, 2020. Retrieved 17 December 2020.
- ^ Marriott, Hannah (December 3, 2020). "British Fashion Awards: move online heralds different set of priorities". The Guardian. Retrieved 17 December 2020.
- ^ "Aurora James Brings the Fifteen Percent Pledge to Store Shelves". Bloomberg BusinessWeek. December 4, 2020. Retrieved 16 December 2020.
- ^ "The Bloomberg 50". Bloomberg BusinessWeek. December 7, 2020. Retrieved 17 December 2020.
- ^ Butler-Young, Sheena (December 7, 2020). "FNAA Person of the Year Aurora James Is Fashion's Vitamin Supplement — Why It Needs Her Bold, Brilliant Energy Daily". Footwear News. Retrieved 14 September 2021.
- ^ Dewberry, Sarah (September 16, 2021). "TIME unveils list of 100 most influential people of 2021". KSBY. Retrieved November 11, 2021.
- ^ "Christopher John Rogers And Emily Bode-Aujla Take Top Honora At The CFDA Awards – See All The Winners". British Vogue. 2021-11-11. Retrieved 2024-02-23.
- ^ "All of the CFDA Fashion Award Winners". Harper's BAZAAR. 2021-11-11. Retrieved 2024-02-23.
- ^ Ogunnaike, Lola (October 25, 2022). "With the Fifteen Percent Pledge, Aurora James Is Offering Corporate America a Deal". Glamour. Retrieved August 2, 2023.
- ^ "Inside the 10th Annual Canadian Arts & Fashion Awards". Vogue. 2023-10-16. Retrieved 2024-02-03.
External links
[edit]- Living people
- Activists from Ontario
- Canadian art directors
- Canadian fashion designers
- Canadian women activists
- Canadian women in business
- Canadian people of Ghanaian descent
- Black Canadian businesspeople
- Canadian businesspeople in fashion
- People from Guelph
- Canadian women fashion designers
- 1984 births
- 21st-century Canadian women writers
- 21st-century Canadian memoirists