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Women's {{transl|ja|zōri}} are seldom flat, save for {{transl|ja|igusa zōri}} (see image). The soles come in different thicknesses and angles, and are typically covered by vinyl or fabric, though some modern varieties feature a hard black plastic sole with a non-slip base. In contrast, men's {{transl|ja|zōri}} almost always feature a flat sole.{{dubious|reason=[[:File:Kamakura_Matsuri_2010_101104_0230.jpg|This source link is an image]] of a man who has glued a non-flat-soled-zōri to his waraji, and the images at the end of the gallery seems to show a flat sole worn by a woman, and a heeled sole being worn by a man... both have tatami omote topsoles. this may be outdated|date=June 2021}}
Women's {{transl|ja|zōri}} are seldom flat, save for {{transl|ja|igusa zōri}} (see image). The soles come in different thicknesses and angles, and are typically covered by vinyl or fabric, though some modern varieties feature a hard black plastic sole with a non-slip base. In contrast, men's {{transl|ja|zōri}} almost always feature a flat sole.{{dubious|reason=[[:File:Kamakura_Matsuri_2010_101104_0230.jpg|This source link is an image]] of a man who has glued a non-flat-soled-zōri to his waraji, and the images at the end of the gallery seems to show a flat sole worn by a woman, and a heeled sole being worn by a man... both have tatami omote topsoles. this may be outdated|date=June 2021}}


{{transl|ja|Zōri}} with a woven [[wicker]] covering are referred to as {{transl|ja|[[tatami]] omote}}<ref name=tatamidef/>{{efn|Though tatami are not woven with the sheaths of the ''Phyllostachys bambusoides'' plant, the term 'tatami' is used generally in this instance to refer to a woven plant-origin covering - {{transl|ja|'tatami omote'}} roughly translating as "woven covering".}} {{transl|ja|Takagawa zōri}} are generally considered to be relatively formal {{transl|ja|zōri}}, even if the covering is only a vinyl imitation of a woven bamboo-sheath cover. Though most {{transl|ja|zōri}} with a {{transl|ja|tatami omote}} cover are considered to be menswear - known as {{transl|ja|setta}} - traditional women's footwear with a {{transl|ja|tatami omote}} cover also exist, though these are generally confined to the {{transl|ja|[[okobo]]}} variety of {{transl|ja|geta}}.{{dubious|reason=[[:File:Kamakura_Matsuri_2010_101104_0230.jpg|This source link is an image]] of a man who has glued a non-flat-soled-zōri to his waraji, and the images at the end of the gallery seems to show a flat sole worn by a woman, and a heeled sole being worn by a man... both have tatami omote topsoles. this may be outdated|date=June 2021}} In contrast, {{transl|ja| igusa zōri}} (see image) are more modern,<ref name="Kazue">{{cite web |last1=Kazue |title=3 Reasons Why You Should Have Geta |url=https://learnjapanese123.com/3-reasons-geta/ |website=LearnJapanese123 |access-date=2 July 2021 |date=5 April 2021}}</ref> and are not worn with kimono, but are considered working wear or are sometimes matched with casual Western or Japanese clothing. These {{transl|ja|zōri}} more closely resemble a flat sandal with a woven base.
{{transl|ja|Zōri}} with a woven [[wicker]] covering are referred to as {{transl|ja|[[tatami]] omote}}<ref name=tatamidef/>{{efn|Though tatami are not woven with the sheaths of the ''Phyllostachys bambusoides'' plant, the term 'tatami' is used generally in this instance to refer to a woven plant-origin covering - {{transl|ja|'tatami omote'}} roughly translating as "woven covering".}} {{transl|ja|Takagawa zōri}} are generally considered to be relatively formal {{transl|ja|zōri}}, even if the covering is a vinyl imitation of a woven bamboo-sheath cover. Though most {{transl|ja|zōri}} with a {{transl|ja|tatami omote}} cover are considered to be menswear - known as {{transl|ja|setta}} - traditional women's footwear with a {{transl|ja|tatami omote}} cover also exist, though these are generally confined to the {{transl|ja|[[okobo]]}} variety of {{transl|ja|geta}}.{{dubious|reason=[[:File:Kamakura_Matsuri_2010_101104_0230.jpg|This source link is an image]] of a man who has glued a non-flat-soled-zōri to his waraji, and the images at the end of the gallery seems to show a flat sole worn by a woman, and a heeled sole being worn by a man... both have tatami omote topsoles. this may be outdated|date=June 2021}} In contrast, {{transl|ja| igusa zōri}} (see image) are more modern,<ref name="Kazue">{{cite web |last1=Kazue |title=3 Reasons Why You Should Have Geta |url=https://learnjapanese123.com/3-reasons-geta/ |website=LearnJapanese123 |access-date=2 July 2021 |date=5 April 2021}}</ref> and are not worn with kimono, but are considered working wear or are sometimes matched with casual Western or Japanese clothing. These {{transl|ja|zōri}} more closely resemble a flat sandal with a woven base.


Setta were historically mostly {{transl|ja|takegawa setta}}, but {{as of|2002|lc=yes}}, they were often {{transl|ja|igusa setta}}; they were also increasingly likely to have coloured and patterned straps.<ref name="nipponia"/>
Setta were historically mostly {{transl|ja|takegawa setta}}, but {{as of|2002|lc=yes}}, they were often {{transl|ja|igusa setta}}; they were also increasingly likely to have coloured and patterned straps.<ref name="nipponia"/>

Revision as of 00:15, 2 July 2021

Not to be confused with Zorri.

Zori
setta, a type of zōri
TypeJapanese sandal
Materialrice straw, cloth, lacquered wood, leather, rubber or synthetic materials
Place of originJapan

Zōri (草履（ぞうり）) are thonged Japanese sandals made of rice straw, cloth, lacquered wood, leather, rubber, or—most commonly and informally—synthetic materials.[1] They are a slip-on descendant of the tied-on waraji sandal.[2]

Similar in form, modern flip-flops became popular in the United States, Australia and New Zealand when soldiers returning from World War II brought Japanese zōri with them.[citation needed]

Use

Like many Japanese sandals, zōri are easily slipped on and off,[1][a] which is important in Japan, where shoes are removed and put back on when entering and leaving a house,[3] and where tying shoelaces would be impractical when wearing traditional clothing.

The traditional forms of zōri are seen when worn with other traditional clothing.[1] Modern forms are fairly common, however, with casual Western wear, especially in summer. While geta are now mostly worn with the informal yukata, traditional zōri are often worn with the more formal kimono.

Materials

  • Zōri were traditionally made in the home, as were waraji.
    Zōri were traditionally made in the home, as were waraji.
  • Pictorial instructions on how to weave wara-zōri or waraji in Hida Minzoku Mura Folk Village; woven footwear is uncommonly produced, especially for practical necessity, in Japan in the present day.
    Pictorial instructions on how to weave wara-zōri or waraji in Hida Minzoku Mura Folk Village; woven footwear is uncommonly produced, especially for practical necessity, in Japan in the present day.
  • Similar roughly-woven festival zōri, but with the straps wrapped in fabric before being twisted together.
    Similar roughly-woven festival zōri, but with the straps wrapped in fabric before being twisted together.
  • More finely-woven zōri (the thong is also further back). Sewn-on outsoles are just visible at the edges.
    More finely-woven zōri (the thong is also further back). Sewn-on outsoles are just visible at the edges.

The zōri originated as a slip-on form of the tie-on waraji. In the Edo period (1603-1867), the production of zōri became professionalized, and a variety of fancy types of zōri emerged, using fancier materials.[2] While zōri were still commonly woven of rice straw (wara-zōri 藁 草履（わら ぞうり）, literally "straw zōri"), rushes of various kinds and bamboo sheath were also used.[3] If they were made of something less cheap than rice straw, an extra outsole was often sewn on. This could be made of coiled hemp rope (asaura-zōri), wistaria stems, (fujiura-zōri), or wood in lateral strips (zōri-geta or itatsuke-zōri). Leather soles were used on setta.[3] Modernly, polyurethane and cork are used as outsoles.[4]

Zōri also have a variety of upper surfaces. Zōri with a woven wicker covering are referred to as tatami omote[5][b] If it is woven of rice straw (as above), they are wara-zōri. If they are woven on the same four-warp pattern, but using a weft of bamboo sheath (peelings of bamboo culms), they are takegawa zōri (たけがわ, 竹皮), literally bamboo-skin zōri. The topsole may also be woven of common rush (igusa). This is the material used for most tatami mats, and igusa-zōri are also woven on the same many-warp pattern as tatami.

Raffia, rattan, and paper strips (treated and twisted to resemble rush) are also used in topsoles.[6][5][4][7] Some soles are skiamorphic moldings that look like woven topsoles. Topsoles might also be made of cloth, leather, vinyl cloth,[4] or EVA foam. Soles made entirely of waterproof (usually synthetic) materials are called 雨底 (amezoko zōri), literally rain-soled zōri.[7][better source needed] Elastomer zōri are called ゴム草履 (gomu-zōri).[8][better source needed]


Wrapping straw straps with cloth makes the zōri into fuku-zōri (cloth zōri, 服草履（ふくぞうり）)[3] Modern zōri are usually made with the straps as a separate piece, not woven at the same time as the sole.

Hanao

Setta, leather-soled zōri, with flaps for replacing hanao (rear flap is inconspicuous)

The hanao are the straps holding the sole to the foot; the part that should fit loosely between the toes is the maetsubo (前壺),[9] and the side-straps are the yoko-o (横緒). Hanao, like zōri soles, are traditionally symmetrical, with no difference between left and right, though some designs diverge from this.[10]

The hanao of informal zōri can be made of a velour-like material, as in the case of zōri resembling tatami mats. The hanao of more formal colored vinyl zōri are either vinyl or fabric straps. The fabric is often either the fabric used for the shoe, or chirimen (a type of Japanese crepe, of silk or rayon), or cotton, often with a different, softer fabric underneath.[11] Men's zōri may also feature leather or leather imitation hanao.

Traditionally, hanao are adjusted to the wearer,[12] being tied through three holes by strings attached to the straps.[13] Hanao can wear and stretch easily; in such instances, the hanao can be adjusted or replaced through small flaps in the soles, which conceal the knots that hold them in place. In other instances, however, the hanao can be entirely inaccessible, requiring the glued sole to be split open, or entire shoe to be replaced.

Varieties and formalities

  • Side view of a semi-formal vinyl zōri. Two-fabric hanao, softer beneath.
    Side view of a semi-formal vinyl zōri. Two-fabric hanao, softer beneath.
  • Modern formal vinyl women's zōri
    Modern formal vinyl women's zōri
  • Historic cloth-covered zōri
    Historic cloth-covered zōri
  • Rubber gomu zōri, frequently used in bathrooms, and left at the bathroom door
    Rubber gomu zōri, frequently used in bathrooms, and left at the bathroom door
  • EVA flip-flops for sale in Kanagawa Prefecture; note asymmetry
    EVA flip-flops for sale in Kanagawa Prefecture; note asymmetry
  • Glossy vinyl zōri
    Glossy vinyl zōri
  • Tatami zōri with a stitched-on outsole. These seem to be made of paper "rush"
    Tatami zōri with a stitched-on outsole. These seem to be made of paper "rush"
  • 1800s setta; top surface woven
    1800s setta; top surface woven
  • Setta; the top surface is a moulded imitation of the surface in the previous image
    Setta; the top surface is a moulded imitation of the surface in the previous image
  • Zōri being worn, with an extra tie around the ankle, hitched around each strap
    Zōri being worn, with an extra tie around the ankle, hitched around each strap
  • Zōri being worn
    Zōri being worn
Casual igusa zōri, with many-warp top surface and velour hanao

Both the gender of the wearer and the formality of the occasion affects the choice of zōri. Regardless of variety, zōri are almost always worn with tabi socks.

Women's zōri are seldom flat, save for igusa zōri (see image). The soles come in different thicknesses and angles, and are typically covered by vinyl or fabric, though some modern varieties feature a hard black plastic sole with a non-slip base. In contrast, men's zōri almost always feature a flat sole.[dubious – discuss]

Zōri with a woven wicker covering are referred to as tatami omote[5][c] Takagawa zōri are generally considered to be relatively formal zōri, even if the covering is a vinyl imitation of a woven bamboo-sheath cover. Though most zōri with a tatami omote cover are considered to be menswear - known as setta - traditional women's footwear with a tatami omote cover also exist, though these are generally confined to the okobo variety of geta.[dubious – discuss] In contrast, igusa zōri (see image) are more modern,[14] and are not worn with kimono, but are considered working wear or are sometimes matched with casual Western or Japanese clothing. These zōri more closely resemble a flat sandal with a woven base.

Setta were historically mostly takegawa setta, but as of 2002, they were often igusa setta; they were also increasingly likely to have coloured and patterned straps.[2]

Vinyl or plastic zōri are next in formality. They are worn with formal clothing such as a semi-formal kimono. The most formal variety of zōri are generally worn by women; they are brocade covered zōri that are used with the most formal of kimono, such as wedding and funeral wear.

The hanao, or thongs, may be white or black, depending on the occasion; white hanao are worn with formal zōri, with black hanao considered to be informal. They may also complement the colour of the garment.[1] Black, white, and red hanao are traditional and commonly mass-produced, but colourful hanao with a variety of patterns, sometimes chosen separately from the zōri, are also popular.[15]

See also

  • Geta, traditional Japanese wooden sandals
  • Okobo, traditional Japanese wooden clogs
  • Tabi, traditional Japanese split-toed socks
  • Jika-tabi, traditional Japanese split-toed boots
  • Waraji, a simpler form of traditional Japanese sandal

Notes

  1. ^ See waraji for similar, tie-on sandals.
  2. ^ Though tatami are not woven with the sheaths of the Phyllostachys bambusoides plant, the term 'tatami' is used generally in this instance to refer to a woven plant-origin covering - 'tatami omote' roughly translating as "woven covering".
  3. ^ Though tatami are not woven with the sheaths of the Phyllostachys bambusoides plant, the term 'tatami' is used generally in this instance to refer to a woven plant-origin covering - 'tatami omote' roughly translating as "woven covering".

References

  1. ^ a b c d MATCHA. "Geta and Zōri - Japanese Encyclopedia". MATCHA - JAPAN TRAVEL WEB MAGAZINE. Retrieved 2020-03-12.
  2. ^ a b c Jun-ichi, Ishikawa, ed. (June 15, 2002). "Traditional Footwear". Nipponia. No.21. Tokyo Inshokan Printing Co., Ltd. Retrieved 8 June 2021. {{cite journal}}: |volume= has extra text (help)
  3. ^ a b c d Victoria and Albert Museum. Department of Textiles; Smith, A. D. Howell; Koop, Albert J. (Albert James) (1919–1920). Guide to the Japanese textiles: Costume. Vol. 2. Translated by Inada, Hogitaro. Harold B. Lee Library. London : Printed under the authority of H. M. Stationery Office. [from volume 2, page 8] The simplest form of outdoor footwear is the waraji, a sandal of coarse rice-straw, some what shorter than the foot, to which it is firmly tied by means of two straw laces (often covered with white paper). These laces issue from between the first and second toes and pass in turn through a couple of loops at each side, up over the foot, through the loop which forms a heel-piece, and back again to be tied over the instep. The waraji are used by men for energetic and long-continued work, travelling, etc. Their length of life is only about twenty-four hours, but they are very cheap (about a farthing a pair) and supplies of them are carried by travellers and thrown away when worn out...
    For ordinary use, such as leisurely walking on hard, dry ground, the zōri is employed. This is a sandal of fine rice-straw matting and normally has no separate sole. But varieties of it, made of woven rushes of various kinds or of bamboo-sheath, are commonly soled with coiled hemp-rope (asaura-zōri), with wistaria-stems, (fujiura-zōri), or with wood in lateral sections (zōri-geta or itatsuke-zōri). A superior variety, known as setta, has a raw-hide sole with (sic) iron heel-piece.
    The zōri is kept on by means of two thick soft cords (hanao) of twisted cotton or paper, covered with leather or cloth, issuing from each side near the heel and uniting with a short, thinner piece which passes between, and is gripped by, the first and second toes. Rush zōri with very thick tapering cords of straw-rope covered with white paper or cotton are known as fuku-zōri. In modern times the hanao do not come so far back as in former days; the sandal itself is also a little shorter, instead of being slightly longer, than the foot     (translator did not translate the full book text, but from the acknowledgements of vol 1 it sounds as if some of his translations might be incorporated into the work. Volume 1 came out in 1919, volume 2 in 1920. Note the work is in the public domain, therefore the fulltext is not copyright)
  4. ^ a b c "Types of Japanese Traditional Footwear". tsujiya.jp. Tsujiya Honten.
  5. ^ a b c 第２版,世界大百科事典内言及, 日本大百科全書(ニッポニカ),デジタル大辞泉,精選版 日本国語大辞典,ブリタニカ国際大百科事典 小項目事典,家とインテリアの用語がわかる辞典,百科事典マイペディア,リフォーム用語集,日本文化いろは事典,世界大百科事典. "畳とは". コトバンク (in Japanese). Retrieved 16 June 2021.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link) CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link) (sense two, a footwear top surface of igusa (soft rush), rattan, or bamboo sheath)
  6. ^ Lee, Stephen. "The Origins of Matsuri Attire". UCSD MATSURI 2021. ucsdmatsuri.org.
  7. ^ a b "Japanese zori sakata amezoko. Traditional Japanese thongs". SINONOME., "Japanese zori sandal sakura- footwear of rice straw". SINONOME., "Igusa zori men. Traditional bamboo flip flops handmade in Japan. Comfortable and light Japanese thongs adapted to warm climates. - SINONOME". www.sinonome.org. [better source needed]
  8. ^ File:Gomuzori.jpg
  9. ^ "How to Wear, How to Walk". tsujiya.jp. Tsujiya Honten.
  10. ^ "No Left or Right in Traditional Japanese Footwear?". tsujiya.jp. Tsujiya Honten.
  11. ^ "HANAO (straps)". www.karankoron.com. Karankoron. Retrieved 17 June 2021.
  12. ^ "Choosing an Authentic Retailer". tsujiya.jp. Tsujiya Honten.
  13. ^ "How to attach Hanao to your geta 花緒(鼻緒)のすげ方(じょじょ)". www.karankoron.com (in Japanese). (mostly pictoral)
  14. ^ Kazue (5 April 2021). "3 Reasons Why You Should Have Geta". LearnJapanese123. Retrieved 2 July 2021.
  15. ^ "Zori". www.karankoron.com. Karankoron.
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