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=== Texture ===
=== Texture ===
It was a [[Warp and weft|warp]] faced fabric, In weave cotton yarn goes down and silk comes up that produces a cloth that exhibits a silk face and cotton back.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|last=Yule|first=Sir Henry|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=rcjmiBm8hHQC&newbks=0&printsec=frontcover&dq&hl=en|title=Hobson-Jobson: The Anglo-Indian Dictionary|last2=Burnell|first2=Arthur Coke|date=1996|publisher=Wordsworth Editions|year=|isbn=978-1-85326-363-7|location=|pages=707|language=en}}</ref><ref name=":1"><nowiki>''</nowiki>The ordinary orthodox Muslim was only anxious to wear clothes of simple material like linen and to avoid silk , velvet , brocade or fur and coloured ... Mashru - Canonically allowed cloth , i . e . , mixed silk and cotton stuff , was worn , because a Muslim must not wear a dress of pure silk ... 61 Ain - i - Akbari , Blochmann , I , 89<nowiki>''</nowiki>
Mashru was a stout silken stuff with variegated pattern. It was a [[Warp and weft|warp]] faced fabric, In weave cotton yarn goes down and silk comes up that produces a cloth that exhibits a silk face and cotton back.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|last=Yule|first=Sir Henry|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=rcjmiBm8hHQC&newbks=0&printsec=frontcover&dq&hl=en|title=Hobson-Jobson: The Anglo-Indian Dictionary|last2=Burnell|first2=Arthur Coke|date=1996|publisher=Wordsworth Editions|year=|isbn=978-1-85326-363-7|location=|pages=707|language=en}}</ref><ref name=":1"><nowiki>''</nowiki>The ordinary orthodox Muslim was only anxious to wear clothes of simple material like linen and to avoid silk , velvet , brocade or fur and coloured ... Mashru - Canonically allowed cloth , i . e . , mixed silk and cotton stuff , was worn , because a Muslim must not wear a dress of pure silk ... 61 Ain - i - Akbari , Blochmann , I , 89<nowiki>''</nowiki>


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Revision as of 04:20, 18 February 2021

Silk merchants in the 19th century

Mashru (Mushroo, Mashroo, Misru) was a woven cloth, mix of silk and cotton. It was an old handwoven satin silk variety of the Indian subcontinent.

Texture and types

Texture

Mashru was a stout silken stuff with variegated pattern. It was a warp faced fabric, In weave cotton yarn goes down and silk comes up that produces a cloth that exhibits a silk face and cotton back.[1][2] Hence it was a mix of silk and cotton, although satin but a thick and heavy cloth with less lustrous and feminine nature like pure silk.[3][4]

Types

There were varieties of Mashru clothes, Gulbadan, and Sufi, among few leading examples of this category. Mashru was a coarser variety of silk clothes, and it was less expensive than pure silk.[5]

Bahawalpur and Multan was famous for its Shuja khání silks (mixed silk cloths).[6]

Mentions

Mashru is explicitly mentioned in the Ain-i-Akbari under silken kinds of stuff.

Religious admonition

The wearing of pure silk, particularly next to the skin, was widely held to be an impious luxury for good Muslims. "Pure silk is not allowed to men, but women may wear the most sumptuous silk fabrics" (Yusuf Ali, op. cit. 90, seq.)[1] Unlike pure silk, the blend was lawful. Hence it was an acceptable and a popular type of cloth among Muslim men in Northern India and Pakistan. Similar type of cloth named kutnu was famous in the Near East[2][7][8][9][10][11]

Mashru or Mushrues mashrū' means 'lawful.' The word Mashru means permitted, driven from Mashry in Arabic, and misry (or misru) refers to a mixture in the Sanskrit language.[12][13][9][14]

Production

Mashru was produced in Punjab, and western parts[7] of India.[15][13][8][5][16][17]

Use

Mashru with silk face and cotton inside was useful for various dresses and household items.[16][17] During the Mughal period Mashru was used for the costumes of courtiers and nobles.[18]

The indigenious Mashru were famous for its strength and aesthetics "All Mushroos wash well, especially the finer kinds".[19]

See also

References

  1. ^ a b Yule, Sir Henry; Burnell, Arthur Coke (1996). Hobson-Jobson: The Anglo-Indian Dictionary. Wordsworth Editions. p. 707. ISBN 978-1-85326-363-7.
  2. ^ a b ''The ordinary orthodox Muslim was only anxious to wear clothes of simple material like linen and to avoid silk , velvet , brocade or fur and coloured ... Mashru - Canonically allowed cloth , i . e . , mixed silk and cotton stuff , was worn , because a Muslim must not wear a dress of pure silk ... 61 Ain - i - Akbari , Blochmann , I , 89'' PAGE 39 A Social History of Islamic India - Page 39books.google.co.in › books Mohammad Yasin · 1958https://www.google.co.in/books/edition/A_Social_History_of_Islamic_India/Rz16lub2uRgC?hl=en&gbpv=1&bsq=M
  3. ^ Yule, Sir Henry; Burnell, Arthur Coke (1996). Hobson-Jobson: The Anglo-Indian Dictionary. Wordsworth Editions. p. 912. ISBN 978-1-85326-363-7.
  4. ^ ''Mashru , for instance , a double layered material with a thick cotton base and covered with almost a single stranded silken warp and woof , was presumably an Indian innovation . Varieties containing silk and cotton admixtures gained greater currency in the empire , more particularly after the ... Ain - i - Akbari , Persian , ( ed . ) ...'' Indian Journal of History of Science - Volumes 17-18 - Page 120 1982
  5. ^ a b Baden-Powell, Baden Henry (1872). Hand-book of the Economic Products of the Punjab: With a Combined Index and Glossary of Technical Vernacular Words. Printed at the Thomason Civil Engineering College Press. pp. 64, 65.
  6. ^ Calcutta Review. University of Calcutta. 1891. p. 258.
  7. ^ a b ''The ikat velvet pieces which have been located so far and can be identified as Indian are similar in style to the mashru being woven in Western India . ... for the basic foundation and this may have been prepared specially for the conservative Muslim who did not use silk thread next to ... 19 The Ain - i - Akbari also mentions that Akbar received textiles signed by Giyatyad - Din Ali Naqshband as a part of the ...'' Handwoven Fabrics of India - Page 56 Jasleen Dhamija, Jyotindra Jain · 1989
  8. ^ a b Crill, Rosemary (2006). Textiles from India: The Global Trade : Papers Presented at a Conference on the Indian Textile Trade, Kolkata, 12-14 October 2003. Seagull Books. p. 331. ISBN 978-1-905422-17-3.
  9. ^ a b Dhamija, Jasleen (2002). Woven Magic: The Affinitity [sic] Between Indian and Indonesian Textiles. Dian Rakyat. ISBN 978-979-523-567-5.
  10. ^ Jadia, Umesh (1999). Kachchh: An Introduction to the Historical Places, Textile Embroideries, Arts & Crafts Etc. of Kachchh. Radhey Screen Printing. p. 28.
  11. ^ "CLOTHING". char.txa.cornell.edu. Retrieved 2021-02-17.
  12. ^ Textiles and Dress of India: Socio-economic, Environmental and Symbolic Significance. University of Minnesota. 1992. p. 69.
  13. ^ a b Gillow, John; Barnard, Nicholas (2008). Indian Textiles. Thames & Hudson. p. 98. ISBN 978-0-500-51432-0.
  14. ^ ''In India , they are known under such names as bandha , mashru , patolu , telia rumal , chitki or simply ' tie ... A famous contemporary Arab traveler , Ibn Battuta , describes the rich gifts the Sultan of Delhi bestowed on the ... Their name means ' permitted ' , but it is also related to the Sanskrit word misru , meaning ' mixed ' .'' Page 223 Museum für Völkerkunde und Schweizerisches Museum für Volkskunde Basel, Marie-Louise Nabholz-Kartaschoff · 1986https://www.google.co.in/books/edition/%E3%82%A4%E3%83%B3%E3%83%89%E3%81%AE%E4%BC%9D%E7%B5%B1%E6%9F%93%E7%B9%94/XzbrAAAAMAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&bsq=The+word+Mashru+means+permitted+in+Arabic&dq=The+word+Mashru+means+permitted+in+Arabic&printsec=frontcover
  15. ^ Mukhopādhyāẏa, Trailokyanātha (1888). Art-manufactures of India: Specially Compiled for the Glasgow International Exhibition, 1888. Superintendant of Government Printing. p. 347.
  16. ^ a b MATHEWS, KOLANJIKOMBIL (2017). Encyclopaedic Dictionary of Textile Terms: Four Volume Set. Woodhead Publishing India PVT. Limited. p. 912. ISBN 978-93-85059-66-7.
  17. ^ a b Cola, P. R. (1867). How to Develope Productive Industry in India and the East: Mills and Factories for Ginning, Spinning, and Weaving Cotton; Jute and Silk Manufactures... Etc., Etc. With Estimates and Plans of Factories. Virtue and Company. p. 328.
  18. ^ General, India Office of the Registrar (1962). Census of India, 1961: Gujarat. Manager of Publications. p. 66.
  19. ^ Cola, P. R. (1867). How to Develope Productive Industry in India and the East: Mills and Factories for Ginning, Spinning, and Weaving Cotton; Jute and Silk Manufactures... Etc., Etc. With Estimates and Plans of Factories. Virtue and Company. p. 328.
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