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Tomislav "Tomo" Česen (born November 5, 1959) is a Slovenian mountaineer who specializes in solo climbing ascents in the Alps and the Himalayas.

At the age of 26, he reported that he had enchained the three Great north faces of the Alps, becoming the first person to do so solo in winter; although nobody witnessed his feat.^[1] Česen enjoyed a period of fame and sponsorship from his enchainment, and went on to claim a number of increasingly bolder, and in some cases, groundbreaking, solo ascents, including: No Siesta on the Grandes Jorasses, Pilier Rouge du Brouillard Direttissima on Mont Blanc, Modern Times on the south face of the Marmolada, the north face of Jannu (or Kumbhakarna), and the enormous south face of Lhotse.^[1] Many of his boldest solo ascents are now treated with skepticism in the mountaineering community,^[1] and particularly his 1990 solo ascent of the south face of Lhotse.^[2] He remains a controversial figure in climbing.^[1]

One of the standard routes on K2 is named the Česen Route, after him, when he soloed it in 1986;^[3] there is evidence that he probably summitted K2, and his earlier 19-hour solo ascent of Broad Peak (made in preparation for K2) is not disputed.^[1]

His son is the Slovenian mountaineer, Aleš Česen.^[3]

References

^ ^a ^b ^c ^d ^e Twight, Mark (2001). "My Way: A Short Talk with Tomo Cesen". Kiss Or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber. Mountaineering Books. p. 63-74. ISBN 978-0898867633. Retrieved 10 January 2023.
^ Child, Greg (March 1994). "Reasonable Doubt" (PDF). Climbing. pp. 74–81, 144–149. Retrieved 2 January 2023.
^ ^a ^b Presser, Brandon (12 July 2018). "How Hiking May Hold the Key to Slovenia's Tourism Future". Bloomberg News. Retrieved 10 January 2023.

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 '''Tomislav "Tomo" Česen''' (born November 5, 1959) is a Slovenian mountaineer who specializes in [[solo climbing]] ascents in the Alps and the Himalayas.
-At the age of 26, he reported that he had [[enchainment|enchained]] the three [[Great north faces of the Alps]], becoming the first person to do so solo in winter; although nobody witnessed his feat.<ref name=MarkTwight>{{cite book | title=Kiss Or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber | author-link=Mark Twight | first=Mark | last=Twight | date=2001 | isbn=978-0898867633 | publisher=Mountaineering Books | chapter=My Way: A Short Talk with Tomo Cesen | page=63-74 | url=https://books.google.ie/books/about/Kiss_Or_Kill.html?id=N7N-0rq_f8YC&redir_esc=y | accessdate=10 January 2023}}</ref>  Česen enjoyed a period of fame and sponsorship from his enchainment, and went on to claim a number of increasingly bolder, and in some cases, truely groundbreaking, solo ascents, including: ''No Siesta'' on the [[Grandes Jorasses]], ''Pilier Rouge du Brouillard Direttissima'' on [[Mont Blanc]], ''Modern Times'' on the south face of the [[Marmolada]], the north face of [[Jannu]] (or Kumbhakarna), and the enormous south face of [[Lhotse]].<ref name=MarkTwight/>  Many of his boldest solo ascents are now treated with skepticism in the mountaineering community,<ref name=MarkTwight/> and particularly his 1990 solo ascent of the south face of Lhotse.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=http://www.pioletsdor.net/presse/2017/forum/Reasonable-doubt-Child-Climbing.pdf | title=Reasonable Doubt | first=Greg | last=Child | author-link=Greg Child | date=March 1994 | accessdate=2 January 2023 | pages=74-81, 144-149}}</ref> He remains a controversial figure in climbing.<ref name=MarkTwight/>
+At the age of 26, he reported that he had [[enchainment|enchained]] the three [[Great north faces of the Alps]], becoming the first person to do so solo in winter; although nobody witnessed his feat.<ref name=MarkTwight>{{cite book | title=Kiss Or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber | author-link=Mark Twight | first=Mark | last=Twight | date=2001 | isbn=978-0898867633 | publisher=Mountaineering Books | chapter=My Way: A Short Talk with Tomo Cesen | page=63-74 | url=https://books.google.ie/books/about/Kiss_Or_Kill.html?id=N7N-0rq_f8YC&redir_esc=y | accessdate=10 January 2023}}</ref>  Česen enjoyed a period of fame and sponsorship from his enchainment, and went on to claim a number of increasingly bolder, and in some cases, groundbreaking, solo ascents, including: ''No Siesta'' on the [[Grandes Jorasses]], ''Pilier Rouge du Brouillard Direttissima'' on [[Mont Blanc]], ''Modern Times'' on the south face of the [[Marmolada]], the north face of [[Jannu]] (or Kumbhakarna), and the enormous south face of [[Lhotse]].<ref name=MarkTwight/>  Many of his boldest solo ascents are now treated with skepticism in the mountaineering community,<ref name=MarkTwight/> and particularly his 1990 solo ascent of the south face of Lhotse.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=http://www.pioletsdor.net/presse/2017/forum/Reasonable-doubt-Child-Climbing.pdf | title=Reasonable Doubt | first=Greg | last=Child | author-link=Greg Child | date=March 1994 | accessdate=2 January 2023 | pages=74-81, 144-149}}</ref> He remains a controversial figure in climbing.<ref name=MarkTwight/>
 One of the standard routes on [[K2]] is named the Česen Route, after him, when he soloed it in 1986;<ref name=BG>{{cite web | website=[[Bloomberg News]] | url=https://www.bloomberg.com/news/features/2018-07-12/how-hiking-may-hold-the-key-to-slovenia-s-tourism-future | title=How Hiking May Hold the Key to Slovenia’s Tourism Future | first=Brandon | last=Presser | date=12 July 2018 | accessdate=10 January 2023}}</ref> there is evidence that he probably summitted K2, and his earlier 19-hour solo ascent of [[Broad Peak]] (made in preparation for K2) is not disputed.<ref name=MarkTwight/>

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Revision as of 23:26, 11 January 2023

References

Further reading