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* First repeat ascent (traditional or sport climbing). Routes can be hard to grade, particularly by the person making the first free ascent as they often started with no information or [[beta (climbing)|beta]]. The first repeat is therefore chronicled after a potential new grade milestone from a first free ascent. For the highest grades, the first repeat can take years (e.g. ''[[Action Directe (climb)|Action Directe]]'' or ''[[Jumbo Love]]''), or even decades (e.g. ''[[Silence (climb)|Silence]]'' or ''{{ill|Open Air (climb)|lt=Open Air|de|Open Air (Kletterroute)}}'').
* First repeat ascent (traditional or sport climbing). Routes can be hard to grade, particularly by the person making the first free ascent as they often started with no information or [[beta (climbing)|beta]]. The first repeat is therefore chronicled after a potential new grade milestone from a first free ascent. For the highest grades, the first repeat can take years (e.g. ''[[Action Directe (climb)|Action Directe]]'' or ''[[Jumbo Love]]''), or even decades (e.g. ''[[Silence (climb)|Silence]]'' or ''{{ill|Open Air (climb)|lt=Open Air|de|Open Air (Kletterroute)}}'').


* First onsight ascent (traditional or sport climbing). A first free ascent that was achieved [[onsight]], means it was done at the first attempt, and without prior information (or beta).<ref name=GR1/><ref name=CR1/> The climbing media chronicle the progression of grade milestones for onsighted routes by both [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Onsighted / Flashed by men|male]] and [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Onsighted / Flashed by men|female]] climbers.<ref name=PM/>
* First onsight ascent (traditional or sport climbing). A first free ascent that was [[onsight]]ed, means it was done at the first attempt, and without prior information (or beta).<ref name=GR1/><ref name=CR1/> The climbing media chronicle the progression of grade milestones for onsighted routes by both [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Onsighted / Flashed by men|male]] and [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Onsighted / Flashed by men|female]] climbers.<ref name=PM/>


:* First flash ascent (traditional or sport climbing). A first free ascent that was [[flash (climbing)|flash]]ed, means it was done at the first attempt, but with prior information (or beta).<ref name=GR1/><ref name=CR1/> The climbing media chronicle the progression of grade milestones for flashed routes by both [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Onsighted / Flashed by men|male]] and [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Onsighted / Flashed by men|female]] climbers.<ref name=PM/> With the availability of detailed route beta online (including videos of prior ascents), the distinction between onsight and flash ascents has diminished.<ref name=GR1/><ref name=CR1/>
:* First flash ascent (traditional or sport climbing). A first free ascent that was [[flash (climbing)|flash]]ed, means it was done at the first attempt, but with prior information (or beta).<ref name=GR1/><ref name=CR1/> The climbing media chronicle the progression of grade milestones for flashed routes by both [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Onsighted / Flashed by men|male]] and [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Onsighted / Flashed by men|female]] climbers.<ref name=PM/> With the availability of detailed route beta online (including videos of prior ascents), the distinction between onsight and flash ascents has diminished.<ref name=GR1/><ref name=CR1/>

Revision as of 11:44, 10 February 2023

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Henry Barber on first ascent of Savage Journey at Lost World, Mt. Wellington, Tasmania, 1975

In mountaineering and climbing, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guide books) is the first successful, documented climb to the top of a mountain or the top of a particular climbing route. Early 20th-century mountaineers and climbers were focused on reaching the tops of iconic mountains (i.e. the eight-thousanders) and climbing routes (i.e. the great north faces of the Alps) by whatever means possible, often using considerable amounts of aid climbing, or with large expedition style teams that laid "siege" to the climb.

As all the key tops were summited, the manner in which the top was reached became important, and particularly the ability to complete the ascent without artificial aid, which is called free climbing. In free climbing, the term first free ascent (abbreviated FFA) is used where a mountain or climbing route was ascended without any artificial aid; although mechanical devices for protection in the event of a fall could be used (but for to aid progression). Completing the FFA of a mountain or a climbing route is often called freeing (or more latterly sending) a route.

Mountaineering

As mountaineering developed in the 20th century, the attainment of a summit by almost any means was replaced by ascents that reflected different styles used and different conditions faced. In 2008, the most prestigious annual prize in mountaineering, the Piolet d'Or, amended its focus to small light-weight alpine-style teams using no form of aid or support, rather than on large Himalayan-style expeditions using "siege" techniques.[1]

The most notable types of mountaineering first ascents that are chronicled are:

  • First winter ascent. The winter climbing season is between December 21 and March 20.[2] The first winter ascents of the great north faces of the Alps were a coveted prize, particularly the "Trilogy" of the three hardest, which was first completed by Ivano Ghirardini (1977–78). The most notable first winter ascents were the Himalayan eight-thousanders,[2] where the hardest, K2, was only summited in winter in 2021 (66 years after its first ascent) and considered a "holy grail" of mountaineering prizes.[3]
  • First alpine-style (or unsupported) ascent. In 2008, the charter of the prestigious Piolet d'Or prize was amended to focus on small teams with no support making fast, but riskier, ascents on routes that had previously been done by expeditions.[4][5] Multiple Piolet d'Or winners whose ascents embodied this style included Marko Prezelj, Mick Fowler, and Ueli Steck.[4] The charter was amended to de-incentivize excessive risk-taking after the notable deaths of several prize winners, including David Lama, and Hansjörg Auer.[1][6]
  • First solo ascent. The most extreme form of alpine-style ascent is the solo climbing ascent, performed by a single climber. The first solo ascents of all the alpine north faces, including the first solo winter ascents, were coveted; one of the most famous practitioners was the Italian Walter Bonatti.[7] Himalayan solo ascents are also coveted, although problems around verification are more frequent due to the more remote nature of the routes, with notable disputed cases such as Tomo Česen on the south face of Lhotse.[7][4][6]

Rock climbing

In rock climbing, the style of the first free ascent was further broken down and chronicled depending on the level of practice or prior attempts used, and on the types of climbing protection (but not for aid) employed. Key differentiators were the style on which the route was free climbed (i.e. traditional climbing, sport climbing, or free solo climbing), and whether it was done on the first attempt, and whether the climber had prior information.[8]

The most notable types of rock climbing first ascents that are chronicled are:

  • First free ascent (traditional climbing only). The pre-1980s first free ascents were by traditional climbing techniques. A distinction was made between single-pitch routes and multi-pitch (or big wall climbing routes). While various countries developed their own grading systems to track progression, they eventually aligned, so that the progression of global milestones could be tracked for male and female climbers.[9]
  • First greenpoint ascent (traditional climbing only). In the 2010s, traditional climbers introduced the derived term greenpointing (as a counterpoint to a "redpoint"), to describe climbing a pre-bolted sport climbing route, but only using "traditional protection" (i.e. climbing protection that is not permanently fixed via pre-placed bolts or pitons).[10][11] Sonnie Trotter's greenpoint of The Path (5.14a R, 2007), is a notable example.[12][13]
  • First redpoint ascent (sport climbing only). In the 1980s, climbers wanted to ascend routes that had no opportunities for traditional climbing protection, and they had to be pre-bolted with protection (but not aid), which was called sport climbing. The greatest progression in grade milestones was now in sport climbing. They developed the "redpoint" definition for what determined a "first free ascent" in sport climbing.[14][15]
  • First repeat ascent (traditional or sport climbing). Routes can be hard to grade, particularly by the person making the first free ascent as they often started with no information or beta. The first repeat is therefore chronicled after a potential new grade milestone from a first free ascent. For the highest grades, the first repeat can take years (e.g. Action Directe or Jumbo Love), or even decades (e.g. Silence or Open Air [de]).
  • First onsight ascent (traditional or sport climbing). A first free ascent that was onsighted, means it was done at the first attempt, and without prior information (or beta).[14][15] The climbing media chronicle the progression of grade milestones for onsighted routes by both male and female climbers.[9]
  • First flash ascent (traditional or sport climbing). A first free ascent that was flashed, means it was done at the first attempt, but with prior information (or beta).[14][15] The climbing media chronicle the progression of grade milestones for flashed routes by both male and female climbers.[9] With the availability of detailed route beta online (including videos of prior ascents), the distinction between onsight and flash ascents has diminished.[14][15]
  • First free solo ascent (independent of traditional or sport climbing). Free soloing is practiced by a smaller community of climbers and is a controversial area given the risks undertaken and whether such risks should be recorded and thus implicitly endorsed.[16] Free solo climbing grade milestones are chronicled,[9] the most notable being Free Solo, the Oscar-winning film of Alex Honnold's first free solo ascent of Freerider in Yosemite.[16]

Gender

Notable disputes

There have been many notable disputes over claims of a first ascent (or first free ascent), for various reasons (style used, verifiability concerns, bad faith or even fraud), particularly where a new grade milestone/advancement in difficulty is being proposed:[8]

See also

References

  1. ^ a b Levy, Michael (2021-11-29). "A Climbing Award That May Be a Winner's Last". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2021-11-30.
  2. ^ a b Bisharat, Andrew (27 February 2016). "Climbers Make History Making First Winter Ascent of Pakistan's "Killer Mountain"". National Geographic. Retrieved 8 February 2023.
  3. ^ Beaumont, Peter (6 January 2021). "Nepalese team makes first successful winter ascent of K2". The Guardian. Retrieved 9 February 2023.
  4. ^ a b c McDonald, Bernadette (2017). "Piolets d'Or: A Short History of the Golden Ice Axe". Himalayan Journal. 72. Retrieved 2 January 2023.
  5. ^ Boermans, Menno (14 April 2015). "Highlights from the 23rd Piolets d'Or". Alpinist. Retrieved 1 January 2023. The Piolets d'Or (Golden Ice Axes) were long considered to be the "Oscars of Mountaineering,"
  6. ^ a b Parnell, Ian (1 July 2006). "Victors of the Unwinnable". Alpinist. Retrieved 2 January 2023.
  7. ^ a b Twight, Mark (2001). "My Way: A Short Talk with Tomo Cesen". Kiss Or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber. Mountaineering Books. p. 63-74. ISBN 978-0898867633. Retrieved 10 January 2023.
  8. ^ a b Sanzarro, Francis (22 March 2022). "Who Did It First? Style, Grades and Dispute in First Ascents". Climbing. Retrieved 8 February 2023.
  9. ^ a b c d e Oviglia, Maurizio (23 December 2012). "The evolution of free climbing". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 4 January 2022.
  10. ^ "Heiko Queitsch greenpoint climbing in the Frankenjura". PlanetMountain. 3 August 2012. Retrieved 22 December 2022.
  11. ^ "Chasin the Trane greenpoint in the Frankenjura". PlanetMountain. 7 November 2011. Retrieved 22 December 2022. Greenpoint? OK redpoint, even pinkpoint is tried and tested (i.e. with gear already pre-placed) . But greenpoint? Ay yes, it's the term used to define climbing a sport route without the bolts but using trad gear such as nuts and camming devices! What might at first glance seem somewhat contorted is in fact a movement that is gaining popularity.
  12. ^ "Sonnie Trotter finds The Path 5.14 R at Lake Louise, Alberta, Canada". PlanetMountain. 23 August 2007. Retrieved 8 February 2023.
  13. ^ Lambert, Erik (31 August 2007). "Trotter Chops Bolts, Sends Marathon Project". Alpinist. Retrieved 8 February 2023.
  14. ^ a b c d Pardy, Aaron (5 November 2022). "Redpoint, Pinkpoint, and Headpoint – What Do They Mean?". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 21 December 2022.
  15. ^ a b c d "What Is A Redpoint In Climbing? – Climbing Jargon Explained". Climber. 2 October 2020. Retrieved 1 January 2022.
  16. ^ a b Osius, Alison (4 June 2022). "Free Solo Rock Climbing and the Climbers Who Have Defined the Sport". Climbing. Retrieved 26 November 2022.
  17. ^ Bishart, Andrew (1 March 2017). "American Woman Reaches a New Milestone in Rock Climbing". National Geographic. Retrieved 20 January 2022.
  18. ^ a b Walsh, Megan (14 November 2017). "Can't Keep Her Down: A Consolidated History of Women's Climbing Achievements". Climbing. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
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