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Face climbs emphasize the [[rock-climbing technique]]s of '[[crimp (climbing)|crimping]]' and of '[[edging (climbing)|edging]]' that use small features on the rock to help with upward mobility. Face-climbing on advanced limestone routes can also involve using one and two-finger pockets (also called Huecos) that require considerable strength in the finger tendons.<ref name=HTRCFace>{{cite book | title=How to Rock Climb | isbn=978-1493056262 | edition=6th | first1=John | last1=Long | first2=Bob | last2=Gaines | author-link=John Long (climber) | publisher=[[Globe Pequot Press|Falcon Guides]] | date=August 2022|pages=65-85 | chapter=Chapter 4: Face Climbing | quote=Steep Face Technique)}}</ref><ref name=ACMG>{{cite book | date=2023 | title=Climbing Guiding Manual | publisher=[[Association of Canadian Mountain Guides]] | chapter-url=https://www.google.ie/books/edition/ACMG_Climbing_Guide_Manual/3OnLEAAAQBAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&dq=%22slab+climbing%22&pg=PA212&printsec=frontcover | accessdate=6 October 2024 | chapter=Chapter 17: Guiding Rock Climbing | pages=213-215 | author=ACMG | quote=Face Climbing}}</ref> Because face climbs are not always uniformly sheer from top to bottom, some off-angle slab climbing skills may also be required, and the terms are often used interchangeably — although incorrectly — to describe any form of non-overhanging, near-vertical, featureless climbing route.<ref name=CL>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/places/how-hard-can-slab-climbs-actually-get/ | title=How Hard Can Slab Climbs Actually Get? | first=James | last=Lucas | date=14 December 2023 | accessdate=4 October 2024}}</ref>
Face climbs emphasize the [[rock-climbing technique]]s of '[[crimp (climbing)|crimping]]' and of '[[edging (climbing)|edging]]' that use small features on the rock to help with upward mobility. Face-climbing on advanced limestone routes can also involve using one and two-finger pockets (also called Huecos) that require considerable strength in the finger tendons.<ref name=HTRCFace>{{cite book | title=How to Rock Climb | isbn=978-1493056262 | edition=6th | first1=John | last1=Long | first2=Bob | last2=Gaines | author-link=John Long (climber) | publisher=[[Globe Pequot Press|Falcon Guides]] | date=August 2022|pages=65-85 | chapter=Chapter 4: Face Climbing | quote=Steep Face Technique)}}</ref><ref name=ACMG>{{cite book | date=2023 | title=Climbing Guiding Manual | publisher=[[Association of Canadian Mountain Guides]] | chapter-url=https://www.google.ie/books/edition/ACMG_Climbing_Guide_Manual/3OnLEAAAQBAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&dq=%22slab+climbing%22&pg=PA212&printsec=frontcover | accessdate=6 October 2024 | chapter=Chapter 17: Guiding Rock Climbing | pages=213-215 | author=ACMG | quote=Face Climbing}}</ref> Because face climbs are not always uniformly sheer from top to bottom, some off-angle slab climbing skills may also be required, and the terms are often used interchangeably — although incorrectly — to describe any form of non-overhanging, near-vertical, featureless climbing route.<ref name=CL>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/places/how-hard-can-slab-climbs-actually-get/ | title=How Hard Can Slab Climbs Actually Get? | first=James | last=Lucas | date=14 December 2023 | accessdate=4 October 2024}}</ref>


The evolution of new technical [[Grade (climbing)|grade milestones]] that came with face-climbing was helped by the simultaneous introduction of new climbing training techniques and tools, and in particular the [[hangboard]], and by the [[campus board]].<ref>{{cite web |website=Gripped | url=https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/jerry-moffatts-classic-1990s-campus-board-film/ | title=Jerry Moffatt’s Classic 1990’s Campus Board Film | date=17 October 2018 | accessdate=28 November 2022}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jerry-moffatt-from-the-campus-board-to-early-sports-climbing-training.html | date=26 April 2016 | accessdate=28 November 2022 | title=Jerry Moffatt: from the Campus Board to early sports climbing training}}</ref> Particularly notable face-climbing routes include [[Jerry Moffatt]]'s ''{{interlanguage link|The Face (climb)|lt=The Face|de|The Face (Kletterroute)}}'' from 1983 in Germany, the world's [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by men|first-ever]] {{climbing grade|8a+}} graded route, and [[Wolfgang Gullich]]'s ''Kanal im Rücken'' (from 1984 in Germany), ''Punks in the Gym'' (from 1985 in Australia), and ''{{interlanguage link|Wallstreet (climb)|lt=Wallstreet|de|Wallstreet (Kletterroute)}}'' (from 1987 in Germany), which were the world's [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by men|first-ever]] routes at the grade of {{climbing grade|8b}}, {{climbing grade|8b+}}, and {{climbing grade|8c}} respectively.<ref name=PMMile>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain.com | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/the-evolution-of-free-climbing.html | title=The evolution of free climbing | date=23 December 2012 | first=Maurizio | last=Oviglia | access-date=5 October 2024}}</ref><ref name=GRMile>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine (Canada) | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/10-climbing-grade-milestones-since-1961/ | title=10 Climbing Grade Milestones Since 1961 | date=2 February 2024 | accessdate=5 October 2024 | first=Aaron | last=Pardy}}</ref> The creation of single-pitch sport climbing routes such as [[Ben Moon (climber)|Ben Moon]]'s ''[[Hubble (climb)|Hubble]]'' in 1990, and Gullich's ''[[Action Directe (climb)|Action Directe]]'' in 1991, moved the focus of the leading rock climbers to [[overhang (rock formation)|overhang climbing]] routes on which all future new milestones in climbing grades would be set.<ref name=pm>{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/action-directe-wolfgang-gullich-25-year-old-frankenjura-masterpiece.html |title = Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece |author= Nicholas Hobley |access-date=5 October 2024|publisher=Planet Mountain}}</ref> However, face-routes would continue to dominate new [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed|grade milestones]] in [[multi-pitch climbing]], such as the "{{interlanguage link|Alpine Trilogy (climbing)|lt=Alpine Trilogy|it|Trilogia delle Alpi}}" of {{climbing grade|8b+}} graded big-wall face-climbing routes freed in 1993 to 1994, by [[Stefan Glowacz]] (''Des Kaisers neue Kleider''), by [[Thomas Huber]] (''The End of Silence''), and by {{interlanguage link|Beat Kammerlander|de}} (''Silbergeier'').<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/alpine-trilogy-completed-by-robbie-phillips.html | date=27 August 2019 | accessdate=5 October 2024 | title=Alpine Trilogy completed by Robbie Phillips}}</ref>
The evolution of new technical [[Grade (climbing)|grade milestones]] that came with face-climbing was helped by the simultaneous introduction of new climbing training techniques and tools, and in particular the [[hangboard]], and by the [[campus board]].<ref>{{cite web |website=Gripped | url=https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/jerry-moffatts-classic-1990s-campus-board-film/ | title=Jerry Moffatt’s Classic 1990’s Campus Board Film | date=17 October 2018 | accessdate=28 November 2022}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jerry-moffatt-from-the-campus-board-to-early-sports-climbing-training.html | date=26 April 2016 | accessdate=28 November 2022 | title=Jerry Moffatt: from the Campus Board to early sports climbing training}}</ref> Particularly notable face-climbing routes include [[Jerry Moffatt]]'s ''{{interlanguage link|The Face (climb)|lt=The Face|de|The Face (Kletterroute)}}'' from 1983 in Germany, the world's [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by men|first-ever]] {{climbing grade|8a+}} graded route, and [[Wolfgang Gullich]]'s ''Kanal im Rücken'' (from 1984 in Germany), ''Punks in the Gym'' (from 1985 in Australia), and ''{{interlanguage link|Wallstreet (climb)|lt=Wallstreet|de|Wallstreet (Kletterroute)}}'' (from 1987 in Germany), which were the world's [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed by men|first-ever]] routes at the grade of {{climbing grade|8b}}, {{climbing grade|8b+}}, and {{climbing grade|8c}} respectively.<ref name=PMMile>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain.com | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/the-evolution-of-free-climbing.html | title=The evolution of free climbing | date=23 December 2012 | first=Maurizio | last=Oviglia | access-date=5 October 2024}}</ref><ref name=GRMile>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine (Canada) | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/10-climbing-grade-milestones-since-1961/ | title=10 Climbing Grade Milestones Since 1961 | date=2 February 2024 | accessdate=5 October 2024 | first=Aaron | last=Pardy}}</ref> The creation of single-pitch sport climbing routes such as [[Ben Moon (climber)|Ben Moon]]'s ''[[Hubble (climb)|Hubble]]'' in 1990, and Gullich's ''[[Action Directe (climb)|Action Directe]]'' in 1991, moved the focus of the leading rock climbers to [[overhang (rock formation)|overhang climbing]] routes on which all future new milestones in climbing grades would be set.<ref name=pm>{{cite web|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/action-directe-wolfgang-gullich-25-year-old-frankenjura-masterpiece.html |title = Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece |author= Nicholas Hobley |access-date=5 October 2024|publisher=Planet Mountain}}</ref> However, face-routes would continue to feature in new [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Redpointed|grade milestones]] in [[multi-pitch climbing]], such as the "{{interlanguage link|Alpine Trilogy (climbing)|lt=Alpine Trilogy|it|Trilogia delle Alpi}}" of {{climbing grade|8b+}} graded big-wall face-climbing routes freed in 1993 to 1994, by [[Stefan Glowacz]] (''Des Kaisers neue Kleider''), by [[Thomas Huber]] (''The End of Silence''), and by {{interlanguage link|Beat Kammerlander|de}} (''Silbergeier'').<ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/alpine-trilogy-completed-by-robbie-phillips.html | date=27 August 2019 | accessdate=5 October 2024 | title=Alpine Trilogy completed by Robbie Phillips}}</ref>


==See also==
==See also==

Revision as of 16:19, 10 October 2024

Not to be confused with Big wall climbing.
Examples of face climbing

Face climbing is a type of route in rock climbing where the rock face is fully vertical, unlike in slab climbing, and is largely featureless, unlike in crack climbing. Face-climbing routes are typically sustained and exposed, and longer multi-pitch face-routes can become big wall climbing. Face-climbing became more common with the introduction of sport climbing in the 1980s, when French climbers began to fix permanent bolts into the rock as climbing protection — in contrast to traditional climbing — allowing them to ascend the blanker rock faces in places like the Verdon Gorge and Buoux in France.[1]

Face climbs emphasize the rock-climbing techniques of 'crimping' and of 'edging' that use small features on the rock to help with upward mobility. Face-climbing on advanced limestone routes can also involve using one and two-finger pockets (also called Huecos) that require considerable strength in the finger tendons.[2][3] Because face climbs are not always uniformly sheer from top to bottom, some off-angle slab climbing skills may also be required, and the terms are often used interchangeably — although incorrectly — to describe any form of non-overhanging, near-vertical, featureless climbing route.[4]

The evolution of new technical grade milestones that came with face-climbing was helped by the simultaneous introduction of new climbing training techniques and tools, and in particular the hangboard, and by the campus board.[5][6] Particularly notable face-climbing routes include Jerry Moffatt's The Face [de] from 1983 in Germany, the world's first-ever 8a+ (5.13c) graded route, and Wolfgang Gullich's Kanal im Rücken (from 1984 in Germany), Punks in the Gym (from 1985 in Australia), and Wallstreet [de] (from 1987 in Germany), which were the world's first-ever routes at the grade of 8b (5.13d), 8b+ (5.14a), and 8c (5.14b) respectively.[7][8] The creation of single-pitch sport climbing routes such as Ben Moon's Hubble in 1990, and Gullich's Action Directe in 1991, moved the focus of the leading rock climbers to overhang climbing routes on which all future new milestones in climbing grades would be set.[9] However, face-routes would continue to feature in new grade milestones in multi-pitch climbing, such as the "Alpine Trilogy [it]" of 8b+ (5.14a) graded big-wall face-climbing routes freed in 1993 to 1994, by Stefan Glowacz (Des Kaisers neue Kleider), by Thomas Huber (The End of Silence), and by Beat Kammerlander [de] (Silbergeier).[10]

See also

References

  1. ^ Long, John; Gaines, Bob (August 2022). "Introduction: Getting Started (Modes of Ascent)". How to Rock Climb (6th ed.). Falcon Guides. pp. vi–xx. ISBN 978-1493056262.
  2. ^ Long, John; Gaines, Bob (August 2022). "Chapter 4: Face Climbing". How to Rock Climb (6th ed.). Falcon Guides. pp. 65–85. ISBN 978-1493056262. Steep Face Technique)
  3. ^ ACMG (2023). "Chapter 17: Guiding Rock Climbing". Climbing Guiding Manual. Association of Canadian Mountain Guides. pp. 213–215. Retrieved 6 October 2024. Face Climbing
  4. ^ Lucas, James (14 December 2023). "How Hard Can Slab Climbs Actually Get?". Climbing. Retrieved 4 October 2024.
  5. ^ "Jerry Moffatt's Classic 1990's Campus Board Film". Gripped. 17 October 2018. Retrieved 28 November 2022.
  6. ^ "Jerry Moffatt: from the Campus Board to early sports climbing training". PlanetMountain. 26 April 2016. Retrieved 28 November 2022.
  7. ^ Oviglia, Maurizio (23 December 2012). "The evolution of free climbing". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 5 October 2024.
  8. ^ Pardy, Aaron (2 February 2024). "10 Climbing Grade Milestones Since 1961". Gripped Magazine (Canada). Retrieved 5 October 2024.
  9. ^ Nicholas Hobley. "Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece". Planet Mountain. Retrieved 5 October 2024.
  10. ^ "Alpine Trilogy completed by Robbie Phillips". PlanetMountain. 27 August 2019. Retrieved 5 October 2024.

Further reading

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