Baltistan

Baltistan (Urdu: بلتستان) , also known as بلتیول (Baltiyul) in the Balti language, is a region in northern Pakistan, Kashmir, bordering Xinjiang Autonomous Region of China. It is situated in the Karakoram mountains just to the south of K2, the world's second highest mountain. It is an extremely mountainous region, with an average altitude of over 3,350 m (11,000 ft). It is inhabited principally by Balti Muslims of Tibetan descent who converted from Tibetan Buddhism prior to the 16th century.

Baltistan was an independent state but was occupied by the Raja (King) of Kashmir in the nineteenth century. In 1947 when India and Pakistan gained independence, it was still part of Kashmir. Now the region is divided between Pakistan and India. The districts of Skardu (Skardo) and Ganche, which is a part of Pakistan occupied Kashmir, is a disputed territory claimed by both India and Pakistan, but controlled by Pakistan, a de facto federal dependency of Pakistan administered directly from Islamabad; its main town is Skardu. It contains the highest peaks of the Karakoram, including K2. Indian occupied Baltistan (the district of Kargil) which is disputed and claimed by Pakistan is located in the north of the Indian administered Kashmir Jammu and Kashmir.

Geography

Karakorum Highway and Indus

Baltistan is often called "little Tibet". The adjoining territory of Baltistan forms the west extremity of Tibet, whose natural limits here are the Indus from its abrupt southward bend in 74 45 E., and the mountains to the north and west, separating a comparatively peaceful Tibetan population from the fiercer Aryan tribes beyond. Muslim writers about the 16th century speak of Baltistan as Little Tibet, and of Ladakh as Great Tibet, thus ignoring the really Great Tibet altogether. The Balti call Gilgit a Tibet, and Dr Leitner says that the Chilasi call themselves But or Tibetans; but, although these districts may have been overrun by the Tibetans, or have received rulers of that race, the ethnological frontier coincides with the geographical one given. Baltistan is a mass of lofty mountains, the prevailing formation being gneiss. In the north is the Baltoro glacier, the largest out of the arctic regions, 35 miles long, contained between two ridges whose highest peaks to the south are 25,000 ft and to the north 28,265 ft. The Indus, as in Lower Ladakh, runs in a narrow gorge, widening for nearly 20 m. after receiving the Shyok. The capital, Skardu, a scattered collection of houses, stands here, perched on a rock 7250 ft. above the sea. The house roofs are flat, occupied only in part by a second storey, the remaining space being devoted to drying apricots, the chief staple of the main valley, which supports little cultivation. But the rapid slope westwards is seen generally in the vegetation. Birch, plane, spruce and Pinus excelsa appear; the fruits are finer, including pomegranate, pear, peach, vine and melon, and where irrigation is available, as in the North Shigar, and at the deltas of the tributary valleys, the crops are more luxuriant and varied.

Baltistan, actually a complex of beautiful valleys, is situated amid the famous ranges of Himalaya and Karakoram, straddling the river Indus, between Ladakh and Gilgit. Some of the highest peaks of the world - Chogo-ri (K-2), Mashabrum (K-1) and Gashabrum group of peaks besides beautiful glaciers like Sia-chen, Baltoro, Biafo and Chogo-lungma are situated in this region. The dimensions of Baltistan have been fluctuating over the course of history. It is currently smaller than ever before, with an area of 17,000 km² and an estimated population of 4,00,000. Baltistan consists of six major valleys like Skardo, Rongdo, Shigar, Khaplo, Kharmang and Gultari. Baltistan presents a beautiful contrast of high peaks, deep gorges, straddling glaciers, vast deserts, sandy plains, turquoise blue lakes, colourful panorama, lush green oases and villages.

Baltistan consists of five valleys namely Kharmang (Kartakhsha), Khaplu, Skardu, Shigar and Rondu (Rongyul). Important villages include Kharmang, Tolti, Ghasing, and the beautiful valley of Mehdi Abad (Parkuta) in Kharmang valley.

Baltistan region

Baltistan has two districts namely Skardu and Ganche districts of Baltistan Division of the disputed Kashmir Region of Northern Pakistan; note Khaplu is by far the coldest and dampest place in within Pakistan temperatures reaching below -20 degrees Celsius.

• SKARDU
  • Gultari
  • Kharmang
  • Rondu
  • Shigar
  • Skardu (the capital)

• GANCHE

There are two tehsils of Ghanche Distric: Tehsil Daghoni and Tehsil Mashabrum while the Head qauter is Khaplu city. District Head quarter Khaplu includes the following villages and towns, Yugu, Kharfaq, Barah, Khaplu payeen, Khaplu Bala, Youchung, Surmo, Chorbat. Most population is in Khaplu city having almost hundred small villages. Tehsil Daghoni includes the following villages: Keris, Gowari, Kharkoo, Daghoni, Balghar, Thale, Kuroo, Kunes, Hurrikon. Tehsil Mashabrum inculdes these villages Saling, Machuloo, Kande, hushe, Khane, Talis, Ghurse, Haldi, Thagas, Gulshan-e-kabir (old name farowa), Sino, Domsum, Kundus and Saltoro.

• • Khaplu
  • Mashabrum
  • Daghoni

Ghanche (Gangche) is the main part of Baltistan. Ghanche's population is about 0.5 million and purely Balti-speaking. 95 percent of the population belong to the sofi noorbakhshi sect. surmo, Khaplu, Ghwari,, Thaly, Brah, Chourbat, Saltro and Hushey are the main valleys of the district. SURMO Surmo is the one of the most important region of Baltistan.it has much cultural heritage and civilization and Islamic values. Surmo consisted of the valleys of Tarkary, Khar, gund, Langkhun, chughugrong and Tishary, cumulatively it includes 800 houses and approximately 9000 population. At most large area of cultivated area and noncultivated area covered the 25%of the district areas. There are so many cultural symbols like rigalmo khar, surmo shagharun khar minduq sar (flower garden) and so many other attribute find like make picture on hill are the very old civilization the baltistan region which is the effect of the old chinese civilization. surmo is also a very old valley of Baltistan, to prove this point i must support the walnut trees in the region found with 150 years ago. Geographically is very important region with respect to military and other network of transportation. The biggest bridge named "surmo bridge" situated in surmo which linked siachen region with the district headquarters khaplu and also linked churbut velley as well. The people of this area are hardworking, honest in dealing. Unfortunately the most cultivated fields deprived due to river flood of shoyke river. The Young generation of the surmo struggling in education and deram of surmo as a modern village in future era. Therefore two NGOs named "AL-MUSTAFA WELFARE ORGANIZATION" and "AL-ZEHRA WELFARE FOUNDATION" are playing a vital role in various field of life like health care and emphasise on education as well as environment of the area. The above administrative divisions were created by the Government of Pakistan. Historically, Baltistan consisted of the present day Baltistan (District Skardu and Ghanche) and Kargil, which is now under the Indian control. Kargil is linked to Baltistan through Kharmang valley, and Gultari. Gultari also borders with district Astore, which had been part of the terrotary of the Balti ruling family rMakpons. In fact, the Raja of Astore is a rMakpon.

Writers and historians of different nations have given different names to Baltistan. Central Tibetans have called it Nang-mgon. The historical reference appearing in Ptolemy's - BYALTAE- dates back to the 2nd century BC. The Chinese have named it Palolo, Palilo and Palor. Arabian historians such as Al-Beruni render it Balorthe Arabic version of the Chinese name, which was later Persianized as Baloristan. As the area is geographically located on the Tibetan plateau and for centuries remained a part of the Tibetan Empire, the majority of population being ethnically and linguistically of Tibetan origin, Indian historians have thus named it Little Tibet. The people themselves refer to their homeland as Balti-yul (Land of Baltis) which suggests a link with Ptolemy's BYALTAE. Baltistan is the Persian rendering of Balti-yul.

The Historical Mosque "Chaqchan Khanqah" located in Khaplu Distt. Ghanche

In the 14th century the Buddhist population of Baltistan, Kargil and some villages of Ladakh converted into Muslim as a result of preaching of Syed Ali Hamdani (714-786 al hija) – a saint and Islamic scholar of Kobravi sufi order followed by preaching of Syed Muhammad Nurbakhsh (795-859 alhijra) a disciple of Khawaja Ishaq Khatlani himself the principal successor of Syed Ali Hamdani of same Kubravi Sufi Order. Thus a Muslim society developed first time in the Northern Areas of subcontinent

This Muslim society apart Quran and Sunnah follows Al-Fiqatul Akhwat comprising of legal provisions (furu) and Usool Aitaqadia comprising of principles (Usool-e-Islam) written by Syed Mohammad Nurbakhsh. Therefore they are named Sufia Nurbakshia such as Shia Jafferia and Sunni Hanifia.

Nurbakhshis fundamentally believe in Allah, Malaie-ka ( angle) Holly Books, Holly Prophet and last day judgment with oral declaration of Kalma-e- Shahadatain and practically offering of five time prayers, fasting during Ramdan, Zakattul Mall ( charity of wealth) and performace of Hajj, subject to availability of resources.

As interpreted by Arabic Dictionary Ul-Monjid in the Alfiqatul Ahwat a middle way between Shia and Sunni teachings is shown as a Shariat-e-Islmia. Mission of Syed Muhammad Nurbakhsh as proclaimed by both Shia and Shinn School of thoughts because of their teachings as introductory page Al-Fiqatul Ahwat has been to unify all different sects of Islam, by following Shria prevailing during abeying the lifetime of Holly Prophet (peace be upon him).

Nurbakhshis are known as peaceful, tolerable and moderates, who not only equally respect other Muslim school of thoughts but also stress upon to behave human beings lovely – In the chapter relating to Mrar-bil- Maroof wa Nahi anil Munkar Alfiqatual Ahwat the aim of Islamic pravaling is defined to be obeying Almighty Gods order and becoming kind to His creature.

In the Zikharatul Malook by quoting a Saying (HADITH) of Holly Prophet ( peace be upon him) reported by Hazarat Imam Hussain ( A.S.) the prime wisdom after accomplishment of religious duties is to love human beings and without regarding his being good or bed to do good deeds to every one.

Syed Ali Hamdani by quoting a Hadith of Holy prophet says that thoe who are protectors of lives and properties of human being are Momin ( real believers) while Syed Mohammad Nurbakhsh says that a Momin ( believer) refrains himself from great sinful deeds ( Gona-e-Kabira) like Shireek, killing/ Murder, docorty theft forgery and cheatings etc.

Syed Ali Hamdani and Syed Muhammad Nurbakhsh are claimed by both Shia and Sunni probably because of their teachings stressing upon the Moadat-e- Ahlibeit and the need of following Sunnah of Holly prophet ( peace be upon him) apart fiqatual Ahwat permits different style of praying preachers agreeable to Shia and Sunni as optional.

Syed Ali Hamdani wrote about 170 books, pamphlets leaf lets handouts of which about 70 are traced in either published or unpublished shape. Similarly Syed Mohammad Nurbakhsh is an author of about one and half dozen books in Arabic or Persian.

In the Nurbakhshi Mosque called Khanqah adjacent to main praying halls small rooms are provided for the purpose solitary praying (Atikaf). These Khanqahs have been using as a central couching and preaching place by the Nurbakhshia.

It is said that followers of Nurabkhshis Maslak do exist in central Asia specially Tajkistan, Siangkang and Yarqand provinces of China, Turkey Kurdistan and Iran. But present day Nurbakhshis do not have any linkage with Nurabkhshis living in other parts of world out side sub-continent.

Barat Library Khaplu and Suffa Islamic Library Madarasa Shah-e-Hamdan Sufia Noorbakhsh can become main source for searching further detail about Nurbakhshisium.

Historical Perspective

The first reference about the area (Baltistan) occurs in the Epic of King Gesar (Kesar), but in a fragmentary shape. Reliable historical records date from the last days of Palolashahi rulers of Baltistan (Palolo) who, according to some rock-inscriptions, ruled the area of Ladakh and Gilgit too from the 5th century to 727 AD. In 727 AD the Tibetan king Khri-Lde-gtsug-bRtan invaded Baltistan and in 737 AD the Tibetans conquered Brushal (modern Gilgit) annexing these to their empire. These areas remained provinces of the Tibetan empire till the death of the last king of Tibet Glang-Darma around 880/900 AD, when the foremost western provinces, Baltistan and Brushal became independent. Since then till the 12th century AD, Baltistan remained under several petty chiefs under the overlordship of the Shagari-tribe of Skardo. In 12/13th century AD, a young fugitive namely Ibrahim Shah, migrated to Baltistan from Iran via Kashmir, managed to obtain power in Skardo and founded the Maqpon Dynasty which subsequently ruled the area for twenty-four succeeding generations. During the reign of ninth Maqpon ruler namely Ghota-Cho-Senge, one Saint Syed Ali Hamadani introduced Islam to the region. In 1531 AD Sultan Saeed Khan, the ruler of Kashgar invaded Ladakh and Baltistan. Ali Sher Khan Anchan the most powerful king, fifteenth in the kings of the Maqpon Dynasty, conquered Ladakh and Western Tibet up to Purang in the east and Gilgit and Chitral in the west during his reign (1590-1625 AD).

Similarly his grandson Shah Murad conquered all these areas for the second time between 1655-1680 AD. For about two hundred years all these areas remained tributaries to the Maqpon kings of Baltistan. A comparatively new, more graceful culture and tradition of fine-arts flourished during this era. The Maqpon kings were great patrons and admirers of the new culture and society. In 1779 AD the Afghans of Kashmir invaded Skardo but could not sustain their control any longer. In 1840 AD the Dogras of Jammu conquered Baltistan and annexed it to their State, but in 1947-48 AD there was a revolt against the Dogras and people of the area after a year long struggle liberated the area and joined Pakistan. Since it was linked to the Kashmir issue, it was defined as disputed and to date is in political limbo. Pakistan is the defacto administrator of the area. The local elected Legislative Council has practically no powers as the Chief Executive is the Federal Minister of the Government of Pakistan.

See also

• Balti language
• Balti people
• Baltit Fort
• Karakoram
• Karakoram Highway
• Skardu
• Skardu Airport
• Ladakh
• Chourbat Valley is an important valley of Baltistan; Chowar, Siksa, Thongmos, Sokhmos, Piun, Siari, Frano, Partuk, Kosting, Kowas, Marcha, Dawoo, Kalan, Lonkha, Thang, Tiaqsi, Turtuk, Cholongkha and Bioqdang are big towns of Chourbat valley.

Notable People

• Late Colonel Dr Mohammad Yaqoob Wazir- (First doctor from Northern Areas of Pakistan)
• Late Maulana Abdul Khaliq - (Former Magistrate/ Tahseeldaar)
• Nisar Hussien Khan - (Former Joint Secretary)
• Manzoor Hussain Parwana , Chairperson Gilgit Baltistan United Movement
• Prof. Dr Sikander Hayat Khan - (Tamgh-e-Imtiaz) Former Head of Surgery (PIMS Islamabad), Chairman Zubeida Khaliq Memorial Trust providing free medical care in northern areas.
• Dr Shujaat Ali Khan - (Plastic Surgeon) Fortwoth, USA
• G.M Sikandar , Secretary to the Government of Pakistan, Ministry of Social Welfare and Special Education, Islamabad
• Nasir Ali , Researcher,Åbo Akademi,Finland
• Engineer Ghulam Mehdi, Water & Power Department, Skardu , Northern Areas

External links

Explore Pakistan Tourism http://explorepak.com

• The Changing Northern Areas
• Pakistan's Northern Areas dilemma
• Tourism Northeran Areas
• Pakistan's Northern Areas