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Self-Belay Above The Device
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Comments about proposed Merge with Prusik_knot (including Prusik_hitch and Prussick):
Yes! Let's put the material under "Prusik" with links from other spellings.

grogono (March 1st 2006)

Comments about proposed Merge with Prusik_knot (including Prusik_hitch and Prussick):
Comments about proposed Merge with Prusik_knot (including Prusik_hitch and Prussick):



Revision as of 17:17, 1 March 2006

Comments about proposed Merge with Prusik_knot (including Prusik_hitch and Prussick): Yes! Let's put the material under "Prusik" with links from other spellings.

grogono (March 1st 2006)

Comments about proposed Merge with Prusik_knot (including Prusik_hitch and Prussick):

10-31-05 I beefed up the article on Prusiks under this article 'Prussik', and incorporated most of the information from the longer-running article "Prusik_knot". The preferred spelling is Prusik, but Prussik is also in common usage. Probably the best thing would be to move the current (merged) article under "Prussik" into "Prusik_knot", capturing the history from there also, and have a bunch of redirects into it from: Prussik, Prusik, Prussik_knot, Prussik_hitch, Prusik_hitch.

ratagonia

Removed from article. Replaced by "When to Carry" section - Charlie Williams

Fashion (Controversial)

Prusiks are carried by some climbers and not carried by others. They are fashionable in an anti-fashion sense - being popular among (less-fashionable) Trad Climbers and disdained by more fashionable Sport Climbers. They are a popular technique to teach at college outing club and large mountain club groups. Choosing to carry prusik loops is a personal choice, and does not differentiate more-skilled or more-prepared climbers from less-skilled or less-prepared, though proponents and opponents may argue otherwise. End Quote

Yes, thank you, that paragraph was not very good. I re-wrote and expanded your re-write, trying to get to a NPV. Denigrated the rappel backup ABOVE (see Storrick link), edited the language a fair amount.

198.60.22.24 03:36, 24 December 2005 (UTC) ratagonia[reply]

Self-Belay Above The Device

I just recently reverted a change to the "Self-Delay Above The Device" entry in the "Applications" section.

An anonymous user at 198.60.22.24 had removed the following text:

"This configuration allows for easier and faster transition from rappeling to climbing the rope, but can also result in the prusik locking tight as the amount of friction required to hold the load at that point is far higher than that experienced by a self-belay below the device"

and had replaced it with

"This technique has been demonstrated to be both ineffective and dangerous, and is no longer used"

I reverted this change as this technique is still both trained and precticed by a number of organisations and individuals (including professional mountaineering schools) and as such instead of simply stating that it is no longer used (which is false), I believe that highlighting the possible drawbacks of that technique is far more inline with the ideals of Wikipedia. Further there were no references to sources confirming this statement - I have used it numerous times and have not found it to be dangerous nor ineffective, as I am still here!

Anyone caring to contribute? --Lucanos 05:53, 24 December 2005 (UTC)[reply]