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Revision as of 15:20, 28 June 2012

This article is about the municipality in Uttar Pradesh, India. For its namesake district, see Varanasi district.
"Banaras" redirects here. For other uses, see Banaras (disambiguation).
Varanasi
वाराणसी
Benares, Banaras
City
Nickname: 
The cultural capital of India
Country India
StateUttar Pradesh
DistrictVaranasi
Government
 • MayorKaushlendra Singh (BJP)
Area
 • City
1,550 km2 (600 sq mi)
Elevation
80.71 m (264.80 ft)
Population
 (2011)
 • City
3 682 194
 • Density2,399/km2 (6,210/sq mi)
 • Metro
[1]
1,599,260
 [2]
Languages
 • OfficialHindi, English, Urdu
Time zoneUTC+5:30 (IST)
PIN
221 001 to** (** area code)
Telephone code0542
Sex ratio0.926 (2011) ♂/♀
Literacy77.05 (2011)%
Websitewww.nnvns.org

Varanasi Hindustani pronunciation: [ʋaːˈraːɳəsi] ⓘ), also commonly known as Banaras or Benaras (Banāras [bəˈnaːrəs] ⓘ) and Kashi, Kāśī [ˈkaːʃi] ⓘ), is a city situated on the banks of the River Ganges in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh, 320 kilometres (199 mi) southeast of state capital Lucknow. It is regarded as a holy city by Hindus, Buddhists and Jains. It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and the oldest in India.[3][4]

The Kashi Naresh (Maharaja of Kashi) is the chief cultural patron of Varanasi and an essential part of all religious celebrations.[5] The culture of Varanasi is closely associated with the River Ganges and the river's religious importance. The city has been a cultural and religious centre in North India for several thousand years. The Benares Gharana form of the Indian classical music developed in Varanasi, and many prominent Indian philosophers, poets, writers, and musicians resided or reside in Varanasi. Gautama Buddha gave his first sermon at Sarnath located near Varanasi (Kashi).[6]

People often refer to Varanasi as "the city of temples", "the holy city of India", "the religious capital of India", "the city of lights", "the city of learning", and "the oldest living city on earth."[7]

History

Painting of Benares in 1890.
A Brahmin placing a garland on the holiest spot in the sacred city. A lithograph by James Prinsep, 1832.

Etymology

The name Varanasi has its origin possibly from the names of the two rivers Varuna and Assi, for the old city lies in the north shores of the Ganges bounded by its two tributaries, the Varuna and the Assi, with the Ganges being to its south.[8] Another speculation about the origin of the name is that the river Varuna itself was called Varanasi in olden times, from which the city got its name.[9] This is generally disregarded by historians, though there may be some earlier texts suggesting it to be so.[10][11]

Washerwoman at Varanasi, Along the Ganges

Through the ages, Varanasi was variously known as Avimuktaka, Anandakanana, Mahasmasana, Surandhana, Brahma Vardha, Sudarsana, Ramya, and Kasi.[12]

In the Rigveda, the city was referred to as Kasi or Kashi, "the luminous one" as an allusion to the city's historical status as a centre of learning, literature, art and culture.[13] Kasikhand described the glory of the city in 15, 000 verses in the Skanda Purana. In one verse, God Shiva says,

The three worlds form one city of mine, and Kashi is my royal palace therein.[14]

Legendary history

According to legend, the city was founded by the Hindu deity Lord Shiva, several thousand years ago,[3] thus making it one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in the country. It is also a general belief that it stands on the weapon "The Trishool" (Trident) of Lord Shiva. It is one of the seven sacred cities of the Hindus. Many Hindu scriptures, including the Rigveda, Skanda Purana, the Ramayana, and the Mahabharata, mention the city.

Varanasi is generally believed to be about 3000 years old.[15] It is supposed[according to whom?] to be the oldest city in the world, though Jericho also claims this title. Varanasi was an industry centre famous for its muslin and silk fabrics, perfumes, ivory works, and sculpture. During the time of Gautama Buddha (born circa 567 BCE), Varanasi was the capital of the Kingdom of Kashi. The celebrated Chinese traveller Xuanzang attested that the city was a center of religious and artistic activities, and that it extended for about 5 km along the western bank of the Ganges.

Kashi Naresh and Ramnagar

Varanasi became an independent Kingdom of Kashi in the eighteenth century, and under subsequent British rule, it remained a commercial and religious centre. Varanasi suffered during the raids into India by Muhammad of Ghori. In 1910, the British made Varanasi a new Indian state, with Ramanagar as its headquarters but with no jurisdiction over the city of Varanasi itself. Kashi Naresh still resides in the fort of Ramanagar. The Ramnagar Fort of the Kashi Naresh is situated to the east of Varanasi, across the Ganges.[16] The Ramnagar Fort was built by Kashi Naresh Raja Balwant Singh with creamy chunar sandstone in the eighteenth century.[5] It is a typically Mughal style of architecture with carved balconies, open courtyards, and picturesque pavilions.[5] The other fort of the Kashi Naresh is the Chet Singh Palace, near Shivala Ghat, Varanasi built by Maharaja Chet Singh.[citation needed]

A busy street in Varanasi, 2005

Ramnagar Fort and its museum are the repository of the history of the kings of Benares and since the 18th century has been the home of Kashi Naresh.[5] Even today the Kashi Naresh is deeply revered by the people of Benares.[5] He is the religious head and some religious people of Benares consider him the incarnation of Lord Shiva.[5] He is also the chief cultural patron and an essential part of all religious celebrations.[5]

Events of 1857

A massacre by British troops, of the Indian troops stationed here and of the population of the city, took place during the early stages of the rebellion of 1857.[17]

Modern history

After Aurangazeb’s death most of India was ruled by a confederacy of pro-Hindu kings. Much of modern Varanasi was built during this time by the Rajput and Maratha kings. The kings continued to be important through much of the British rule (1775–1947 AD), including the maharaja of Benares, or Kashi Naresh. The kingdom of Benares was given official status by the Mughals in 1737, and continued as a dynasty governed area up until Indian independence in 1947, during the reign of Dr. Vibhuti Narayan Singh. Benares was ceded to the Union of India on 15 October 1948. After the death of Dr. Vibhuti Narayan Singh in 2000, his son Anant Narayan Singh became the figurehead king of Benares, responsible for upholding the traditional duties of a Kashi Naresh.[18]

Geography and climate

The city of Varanasi is located in the middle Ganges valley of North India, in the Eastern part of the state of Uttar Pradesh, along the left crescent-shaped bank of the Ganges river. It has the headquarters of Varanasi district. The "Varanasi Urban Agglomeration" — an agglomeration of seven urban sub-units — covers an area of 112.26 km 2 (approximately 43 mi²).[19] The urban agglomeration is stretched between 82° 56’E - 83° 03’E and 25° 14’N - 25° 23.5’N.[19] Being located in the Indo-Gangetic Plains of North India, the land is very fertile because low level floods in the Ganges continually replenish the soil.[citation needed]

On a local level, Varanasi is located on a higher ground between rivers Ganges and Varuna, the mean elevation being 80.71 m.[20] As a result of absence of tributaries and canals, the main land is continuous and relatively dry. In ancient times, this geographic situation must have been highly favourable for forming settlements. But it is difficult to ascertain the original geography of Varanasi because the city's current location is not exactly the same as the one described in some old texts.

Varanasi is often said to be located between two confluences: one of the Ganges and Varuna, and other of the Ganges and Assi, (Assi having always been a rivulet rather than a river.) The distance between these two confluences is around 2.5 miles (4.0 km), and religious Hindus regard a round trip between these two places—a Pancha-kroshi Yatra (a five mile (8 km) journey) ending with a visit to a Sakshi Vinayak Temple as a holy ritual.

A view of the Ghat of Varanasi from the River Ganges

Climate

Varanasi experiences a humid subtropical climate (Köppen climate classification Cwa) with large variations between summer and winter temperatures. Summers are long, from early April to October, with intervening monsoon seasons and are also extremely hot, even by South Asian standards. The temperature ranges between 22°C – 46 °C (72°F – 115 °F) in the summers. Winters in Varanasi see very large diurnal variations, with warm days and downright cold nights. Cold waves from the Himalayan region cause temperatures to dip across the city in the winter from December to February and temperatures below 5 °C are not uncommon.[20] The average annual rainfall is 1,110 mm (44 in).[21] Fog is common in the winters, while hot dry winds, called loo, blow in the summers.

Through a combination of water pollution, new constructions of upstream dams, and increase in the local temperature, the water level of the Ganges has recently gone down significantly, and small islands have become visible in the middle of the river.

17th May 2012 was the hottest day of the season so far with mercury soaring up to 45.6 Degree Centigrade.[22]

Climate data for Varanasi
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 19
(67) 		24
(76) 		31
(87) 		37
(98) 		38
(100) 		36
(97) 		32
(90) 		31
(88) 		31
(88) 		31
(87) 		27
(81) 		22
(71) 		30
(86)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) 8
(47) 		12
(54) 		17
(62) 		22
(72) 		25
(77) 		27
(80) 		26
(78) 		26
(78) 		24
(76) 		21
(70) 		15
(59) 		11
(51) 		20
(67)
Average precipitation mm (inches) 19.3
(0.76) 		13.5
(0.53) 		10.4
(0.41) 		5.4
(0.21) 		9.0
(0.35) 		100.0
(3.94) 		320.6
(12.62) 		260.4
(10.25) 		231.6
(9.12) 		38.3
(1.51) 		12.9
(0.51) 		4.0
(0.16) 		1,025.4
(40.37)
Source: [23][24]

Economy

Weaving

'The most extravagant Banarasi saris use silk and gold-wrapped silk yarn with supplementary weft brocade

Varanasi has several small cottage industries, including producting of Banarasi saris, which are a regional type of sari made from silk. The city also produces carpets and handicrafts. According to some writers, Varanasi has a rather high rate of Child labour given the unorganised nature of small scale industries.[25]

As of 2009, there are an estimated 300,000 weavers in Varansi[26] Numerous weavers have lost work or moved elsewhere as saris become less popular in India and more imported saris impact the market.[27]

Varanasi saris are adorned with intricate designs and zari embellishments making it popular during traditional functions and weddings. Earlier, the embroidery on sarees were often done with threads of pure gold. In 2009, weaver associations and cooperatives together secured Geographical Indication (GI) rights for ‘Banaras Brocades and Sarees’.[28][29]

Agriculture

Varanasi produces large quantities of langra mangoes, which are variety developed in the area. Banarasi paan (betel leaf) and khoa (a milk product) are popular, and the related small-scale industries employ many people.[citation needed]

Manufacturing

Indian Railways runs a major diesel locomotive factory in Varanasi, Diesel Locomotive Works (DLW). BHEL, a large power equipment manufacturer, also runs a plant here.

According to Macaulay, Varanasi was the "city which, in wealth, population, dignity and sanctity was among the foremost in Asia". He described the commercial importance saying "from the looms of Benaras went forth the most delicate silks that adorned the halls of St. James and of Versailles."[14][30]

Tourism

Varanasi attracts thousands of Hindu piligrims every year.

Varanasi is a noted centre for silk weaving and brassware. Fine silks and brocaded fabrics, exquisite saris, brassware, jewellery, woodcraft, carpets, wall hangings, lamp shades and masks of Hindu and Buddhist deities are some of Varanasi's shopping attractions. The main shopping areas include the Chowk, Gyan Vapi, Vishwanath Gali, Thatheri Bazar, Lahurabir, Godoulia or Dashswamedh Gali and Golghar. Besides the illustrious and fine silks and brocaded fabrics, one can also buy shawls, carpets, wall hangings, Zari work; stone inlay work, glass beads and bangles, masks of Hindu and Buddhist deities and lampshades. However, one has to be on watch while buying silk saris and beware of the imitations that are much cheaper than the real silk ones but are not so easy to distinguish.

One can also buy 'kamandalam' or brass water pot from Varanasi, which is often used by saints to carry water. People buy bottled 'Ganga jal' or jerrycans from the riverbank too for religious purposes or to be used as Holy Water in various rituals. Besides, people can also take water of the Ganges themselves from the river.[14] Assi Ghat, a midway point between Godaulia in the heart of downtown and youth culture of Benares Hindu University is also a major tourist point.

Keeping pace with the modern world, the ancient city has paved way for malls and multiplexes. The prominent ones being IP Mall in Sigra ,IP Vijaya Mall in Bhelupur, PDR in Luxa and JHV Mall in the Varanasi Cantonment area .

Administration and politics

Varanasi is governed by a number of bodies, the prime being the Varanasi Nagar Nigam (Municipal Corporation) and Varanasi Development Authority, which is responsible for the master planning of the city. Water supply and sewage system is maintained by Jal Nigam, a subsidiary of Nagar Nigam. Power supply is by the Uttar Pradesh Power Corporation Limited. The city produces about 350 million litres per day[31] of sewer and 425 tonnes per day of solid waste.[32] The solid wastes are disposed in one landfill site.[33] A huge amount of sewer flows into the river Ganges daily. Nagar Nigam also runs a bus service in the city and suburban areas. The city is within the Varanasi range of Varanasi zone of Uttar Pradesh Police. A Special Superintendent of Police is the highest ranking police officer in the city.[34] The city constitutes the Varanasi Lok Sabha constituency. Dr. Murli Manohar Joshi of the Bharatiya Janata Party won the constituency in Indian general election, 2009.[35] Varanasi was one the five cities where the Ganga Action Plan was launched.

Education

Main article: Educational institutions in Varanasi
File:B bhu varanasi.jpg
Banaras Hindu University is a major university in Varanasi

The schools are affiliated with the Indian Certificate of Secondary Education (ICSE), the Central Board of Secondary Education (CBSE), or the U. P. Board.

University education

Varanasi is the site of three public universities:

  1. Banaras Hindu University includes Institute of Technology, Faculty of Management Studies, BHU, Institute of Agricultural Sciences and Institute of Medical Sciences and is among the top three largest residential universities in the world, having more than 128 independent teaching departments.[36] Institute of Technology has been slated for conversion into an Indian Institute of Technology under the "Institutes of Technology (Amendment) Bill, 2011". With this, Institute of Technology would become the 16th IIT of India as Indian Institute of Technology (BHU) Varanasi.
  2. Sampurnanand Sanskrit University: Governor General Lord Cornwallis established the Sanskrit College (1791), which was the first college in Varanasi. The first principal of Sanskrit College was Sanskrit professor J. Myor, ICS followed by J.R. Ballentien, RTH Griffith, Dr. G. Thevo, Dr. Aurthor Venice, Dr. Ganganath Jha, and Gopinath Kaviraj among others. After India achieved independence, this college became Sampurnanand Sanskrit University.[37] It has apprx. 1000 affiliated colleges all over India.
  3. Mahatma Gandhi Kashi Vidyapeeth is a chartered university that is named for Gandhi
  4. Imania Arabic College, known as Jamia-e-Imania is a prominent Madrasa for Shia Muslims in this city and it was established as a Religious Seminary for extended Islamic studies and higher religious education on 15 December 1866/1283 (A.H.).
  5. Central Institute of Higher Tibetan Studies (Central University of Tibetan Studies) at Sarnath is a deemed university with a preference for the traditional Tibetan method of teaching within a framework of modern universities.[38]
  6. Other colleges include Institute of Integrated Management and Technology (IIMT), Central Hindu school, Harish Chandra Degree College & Udai Pratap Autonomous College which is highly regarded in the purvanchal zone as one of the good colleges for studies in commerce, arts and science, Nav Sadhana Kala Kendra is a college of Dance and Music in the city that trains the students professionally in Bharatnatyam and Hindustani Vocal. The city also has the Jamiah Salafiah, a Salafi Islamic institution.[39] Government Queens Inter College and Bengali Tola Inter College, one of the oldest colleges in east India.

Culture

Wall paintings, Varanasi, 1974

Varanasi's "Old City, " the quarter near the banks of the Ganges, has crowded narrow winding lanes that are flanked by road-side shops and scores of Hindu temples. As atmospheric as it is confusing, Varanasi's labyrinthine Old City is rich with culture, and a deservedly popular destination for travellers and tourists.[40] The main residential areas of Varanasi (especially for the middle and upper classes) are situated in regions far from the ghats; they are more spacious and less polluted.

Art and literature

Varanasi has its own culture of fine art and literature. Great Indian writers have lived in this city from Kabir, Ravidas, Tulsidas who wrote much of his Ram Charit Manas here, Kulluka Bhatt who wrote the best known commentary of Manusmṛti here in 15th century[41] and Bharatendu Harishchandra, later writers have been Jaishankar Prasad, Acharya Shukla, Munshi Premchand, Jagannath Prasad Ratnakar, Devaki Nandan Khatri, Hazari Prasad Dwivedi, Tegh Ali, Kshetresa Chandra Chattopadhyaya, Vagish Shastri, Baldev Upadhyaya, Sudama Pandey (Dhoomil) and Vidya Niwas Mishra.

Art lovers and historians like Rai Krishnadasa, his son Anand Krishna, musicians like Gopal Mishra (considered one of the best sarangi player of all times) Omkarnath Thakur,[42] Ravi Shankar, Bismillah Khan, Girija Devi, Siddheshwari Devi, Lalmani Misra and his son Gopal Shankar Misra, N. Rajam, Rajbhan Singh, Anokhelal Mishra[43] Samta Prasad,[44] Kanthe Maharaj, M. V. Kalvint, Sitara Devi, Gopi Krishna, Kishan Maharaj, Vikash Maharaj Rajan and Sajan Mishra, Mahadev Mishra, Chhannulal Mishra and numerous others have kept the city alive to the spiritual aspect of fine arts apart from their ability to entertain. Numerous festivals are celebrated that preserve traditional styles of classical and folk culture. All night, open music concerts like ones organised at Sankat Mochan Temple, Hori [disambiguation needed], Kajari and Chaiti Mela, Budwa Mangal, are annual features that draw connoisseurs from all over.

Sushruta, the great surgeon and author of Sushruta Samhita, the Sanskrit text of surgery, also lived in Varanasi. This city is place for Authentic Ayurveda and Panchkarma treatment.[45]

Museums

Jantar Mantar at Varanasi

Jantar Mantar is an observatory built by Maharaja Jai Singh, of Jaipur in the year 1737 is situated close to the Dashashwamedh Ghat, overlooking the ghats on the Ganges.[46] Jai Singh was a great admirer of science and technology and he was particularly passionate about astronomy.

Archaeological museum

Archaeological museum, Sarnath is the oldest site museum of Archaeological Survey of India. In order to keep the antiquities found from the site, a decision was taken in 1904 by the Government to construct a site museum adjacent to the excavated site at Sarnath. It was due to initiative of Sir John Marshall, the then Director General of Archaeology in India, that this museum was created. The plans were prepared by Mr. James Ramson, the then consulting Architect to the Government of India. The building was completed in 1910 to house, display and study the antiquities in their right perspective. The building forms half of a monastery (Sangharam) in plan.

There are five galleries and two verandahs on the museum to display the antiquities ranging from 3rd century B.C. to 12th century A.D. found at Sarnath.

Bharat Kala Bhavan

The nucleus of Bharat Kala Bhavan evolved in January 1920. Its first Hony. Chairman (for life) was poet Rabindranath Tagore and its Hony. Vice-Chairman was poet’s nephew Silpacharya Abanindranth Tagore. But in reality the credit for the origin and subsequent development of this internationally famous museum goes to Padmavibhushan Late Rai Krishnadasa – a renowned writer in Hindi and a pioneer among the Indian art historians.[47]

Founded with a modest collection, the museum has a record of steady growth and its present holding exceeded 100,000. The collection includes archaeological materials, paintings, textiles and costumes, decorative art, personalia collections, Indian philately and literary and archival materials. Most of its collections are historically important, aesthetically beautiful and enjoy certain amount of uniqueness. However, the name and fame of this University Museum justly rests on its priceless collection of Indian paintings. An eminent art historian once declared that the museum possesses one of the greatest collection of miniature paintings. Though the museum’s target visitors are university students, alumni, research scholars and teachers, it also serves as a Regional Museum and caters to the need of a huge number of lay visitors.[48]

Ramnagar Fort

The Ramnagar Fort lies about 14 km. from Varanasi and is situated on the opposite bank of river Ganges. It is the ancestral home of the Maharaja of Banaras. Maharaja Balwant Singh built this fort-palace in the eighteenth century. The fort is built in red sandstone. The Ramnagar fort has a temple and a museum within the grounds and the temple is dedicated to Ved Vyasa, who wrote Mahabharata, the great Indian epic..

A rare collection of manuscripts, especially religious writings, is housed in Saraswati Bhawan with the Ramnagar Fort. It includes a precious handwritten manuscript by Tulsidas.[5] There are also many books illustrated in the Mughal miniature style, with beautifully designed covers.[5]

Holy city

People performing Hindu ceremony at Kedar ghats of Varanasi

Varanasi is one of the holiest cities and targets of pilgrimage for Hindus. As the place where Siddhārtha Gautama gave his first sermon to his disciples, Varanasi is the city where Buddhism was founded. It is the birthplace of Suparshvanath, Shreyansanath, and Parshva, who are respectively the seventh, eleventh, and twenty-third Jain Tirthankars and as such Varanasi is a holy city for Jains. Guru Nanak Dev visited Varanasi for Shivratri in 1507 and had an encounter which with other events forms the basis for the story of the founding of Sikhism. The city has a sizeable native Muslim population, it hosts the Roman Catholic Diocese of Varanasi, and has a significant Jewish expatriate community. Varanasi is home to numerous tribal faiths which are not easily classified and many denominations of the religions which are present.

Annie Besant worked in Benares to promote theosophy and founded the Central Hindu College which later became a foundation for the creation of Benaras Hindu University as a secular university.

As a place of pilgrimage for many faiths Varanasi continually hosts an unusually rich diversity of religious practitioners and teachers who are not resident in the city.

Hinduism in Varanasi

Varanasi Ghat at dusk

Varanasi is a holy city in Hinduism, being one of the most sacred pilgrimage places for Hindus of all denominations and is one of seven most holy places for Hindus in India.[citation needed]

A Kṣetra is a sacred ground, a field of active power, a place where Moksha, final release can be obtained. The Garuda Purana enumerates seven cities as giver of Moksha, They are Ayodhya, Mathura, Māyā, Kāsi, Kāñchī, Avantikā and Dvārāvatī.[49] It has the holy shrine of Kashi Vishwanath (a manifestation of Lord Shiva), and also one of the twelve revered Jyotirlingas of Lord Shiva.

Hindus believe that bathing in the Ganges remits sins and that dying in Kashi ensures release of a person's soul from the cycle of its transmigrations. Hindus regard Kashi as one of the Shakti Peethas, and that Vishalakshi Temple stands on the spot where Goddess Sati's earrings fell.[14] Hindus of the Shakti sect make a pilgrimage to the city because they regard the river Ganges itself as the Goddess Shakti. Adi Shankara wrote his commentaries on Hinduism here, leading to the great Hindu revival. Vaishnavism and Shaivism have always co-existed in Varanasi harmoniously.

Ramlila

The Ramlila is a cycle of plays which recounts the epic story of Lord Rama, as told in Rāmacaritamānasa, the version of the Ramayana penned by Tulsidas.[5] The plays sponsored by the Maharaja, are performed in Ramnagar every evening for 31 days.[5] On the last day the festivities reach a crescendo as Rama vanquishes the demon king Ravana.[5] Maharaja Udit Narayan Singh started this tradition of staging the Ramleela at Ramnagar in mid-nineteenth century.[5]

Ghats

On The River Benares, 1883
Main article: Ghats in Varanasi

Varanasi has nearly 100 ghats. Many of the ghats were built when the city was under Maratha control. Marathas, Shindes (Scindias), Holkars, Bhonsles, and Peshwes (Peshwas) stand out as patrons of present-day Varanasi. Most of the ghats are bathing ghats, while others are used as cremation sites. Many ghats are associated with legends or mythologies while many ghats are privately owned. The former Kashi Naresh owns Shivala or Kali ghat.

Temples

Main article: Hindu temples in Varanasi
Holy sadhu men at the ghat stairs

Varanasi is a city of temples, some of the popular temples are Kashi vishwanath temple, Durga temple, Sankat mochan, Bharat mata, Tulsi manas. Tilbhandeshwar temple is also one of the oldest temples in Varanasi. It is situated near Bengali Tola Inter College Pande Haweli.[50]

Buddhism in Varanasi

Sarnath is a place of Buddhist pilgrimage. The site where Buddha gave his first sermon and thereby founded Buddhism is marked by Dhamek Stupa. Buddhist traditions worldwide have each built their country's architectural style of Buddhist temple here.

Varanasi is one of the holiest places in Buddhism too, being one of the four pilgrimage sites said to have been designated by Gautama Buddha himself (the others being Kushinagar, Bodh Gaya, and Lumbini). In the residential neighbourhood of Varanasi lies Sarnath, the site of the deer park where Gautama Buddha is said to have given his first sermon about the basic principles of Buddhism. The Dhamek Stupa is one of the few pre-Ashokan stupas still standing, though only its foundation remains. Also remaining is the Chaukhandi Stupa commemorating the spot where Buddha met his first disciples (in the 5th century or earlier, BC). An octagonal tower was built later there.

Jainism in Varanasi

Jain Ghat, Varanasi

Varanasi is a pilgrimage site for Jains along with Hindus and Buddhists. It is believed to be the birthplace of Parshvanatha, the twenty-third Tirthankar. Islamic culture has also had an influence on Varanasi. Shree Parshvanath Digambar Jain Tirth Kshetra (Digambar Jain Temple) is situated in Bhelupur, Varanasi. This temple is of great religious importance to Jain Religion. Parshvanath (पार्श्वनाथ) or Parshvanatha (pārśvá-nātha, occasionally spelled Parshvanath or Parswanath) was the twenty-third Tirthankara (fordmaker) in Jainism. fl. ca. in the 9th century BCE, traditionally (877 – 777 BCE. He is the earliest Jain leader generally accepted as a historical figure. He was a nobleman belonging to the Kshatriya caste. He lived in Varanasi in India around 800 BCE and is the most popular object of Jain devotion.

Islam in Varanasi

Construction of the Mosque of Aurangzeb near the bank of the Ganges River at Varanasi.

Interwoven within one million Hindus are two hundred and fifty thousand Muslims who have made Varanasi their home for the past 500 years. Muslims live in the close-knit communities which was founded in the days of the Mogul Empire. The Islamic call to prayer from the Aurangzeb Mosque still sounds until this very day. The textile scraps and brightly colored threads litter the streets. Many of Varanasi's Muslims belong to a weaver caste that known by the name of "Ansari", which means "helper" in Arabic. For generations they have passed on their craft from father to son, hand-weaving silk on room-sized foot-powered looms. They are fashioned into Sarees worn only for special occasions; many Hindu girls dream of wearing Varanasi silk Saree for their wedding day.[51]

Demographics

The population of Varanasi urban agglomeration in 2001 was 1,371,749; the sex ratio was 879 females every 1000 males. As per 2011 census, population stands at 3,138,670.[52] However, the area under Varanasi Nagar Nigam has a population of 1,100,748[53] with the sex ratio being 883 females for every 1000 males.[53] The literacy rate in the urban agglomeration is 77% while that in the municipal corporation area is 78%.[53] Approximately 138,000 people in the municipal area live in slums.[54]

Transport

Varanasi is well connected by air, rail and road with the major Indian cities like New Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Chennai, Pune, Ahmedabad, Indore, Bhopal, Bhubaneswar, Gwalior, Jabalpur, Ujjain, Jaipur, Patna, Jamshedpur, Secunderabad etc.It is located at a distance of 776 km from Delhi. It is located at a distance of 1240 km from Secunderabad.One of the major factors in Varanasi's sustained existence as an inhabited city is its role as an established transportation hub between different cities. Dating to the ancient times, the city was connected to cities like Azamgarh, Taxila, Ghazipur, Pataliputra, Vaishali, Ayodhya, Gorakhpur, Agra etc.

Air

Varanasi Airport, 2011

Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport commonly known as Babatpur Airport is located at a distance of 21 km from Varanasi Cant Station.

All the major domestic Indian carriers including Air India, Jet Airways, Kingfisher Airlines, Spicejet, and international carriers like Air India, Mihin Lanka, Thai Airways International,Korean Air and Naaz Airlines operate from here. The Airport handled more than 5.50 lakh passengers per year.[55]

A new terminal catering to both domestic and international passengers opened in 2010 on 150 acres (0.61 km2) of land adjacent to the airport. The old terminal building could handle only about 200 domestic passengers at any given time, but the new terminal building can handle 1, 000 passengers and will have parking for 500 vehicles. [citation needed]

Haj Flights

Haj Flights started operating from Varanasi in 2007. About 5000 Haj pilgrims from various districts of eastern U.P. board flights here. Saudi Arabia based Nas Airlines and Saudi Arabian Airlines operated direct flights from Varanasi to Medinah in 2010 and 2011.[56]

Rail

Varanasi Junction, the largest station serving the city

Varanasi Junction commonly known as Varanasi Cantt Railway Station, is the major rail and one of the most busiest and highest revenue generating stations in India. The station records a rush of more than 1.5 lakh passengers and more than 240 trains passing through here on a daily basis. It is partly under the administrative control of Lucknow Division of the Northern Railway Zone, and partly under the administrative control of Varanasi Division of North Eastern Railway Zone of the Indian Railways.

The first railway line to Benares was opened from Howrah in December 1862 and was built by the East Indian Railway Company. The station was build on right bank of the Ganges. Later in 1872, Oudh & Rohilkund Railway Company opened rail line from Benaras to Lucknow. In 1887, Dufferin Bridge was constructed over the Ganges at Varanasi allowing trains to go to Mughalsarai.

Mughal Sarai Junction of East Central Railway is another major railway station 8 km from the city limit (16 km from Varanasi Cant Station). At Mughal Sarai Junction, two most important railway lines meet: 1. Main Line (Delhi-Allahabad-Patna-Howrah) and 2) Grand Cord (Delhi-Moradabad-Lucknow-Varanasi-Gaya-Howrah). A large number of trains are available here, particularly to eastern India.

Manduadih is another rail terminal at a distance of 4 km from Varanasi Cant Station. Trains of North Eastern Railway originate from this station. It is under the administrative control of Varanasi Division of NE Railway.

Other important railway stations in the city are Varanasi City, Kashi, Sarnath, Shivpur, Bhulanpur and Babatpur.

Road

In ancient times, the city was connected by a road starting from Taxila and ending at Pataliputra during the Mauryan Empire. This road was later renovated and extended from Kolkata to Peshawar by Emperor Sher Shah Suri during the 16th century and later during the British Raj came to be known as the famous Grand Trunk Road.

The G.T. Road is now known as NH 2 between Kolkata and Kanpur. NH 2 further extends to Delhi via Agra. NH 56 connects Varanasi to Lucknow via Jaunpur, Sultanpur; and NH 29 connects Varanasi to Gorakhpur via Ghazipur. NH 7 which is the longest National Highway in India connects Varanasi with the cities of Jabalpur, Nagpur, Hyderabad, Bangalore, Salem, Madurai and Kanyakumari.

SH 87 links Varanasi to Bhadohi, the carpet city; and SH 5A connects Varanasi to Shaktinagar. Grand trunk road also known as GT road originating from Kolkata up to Delhi and further up to Lahore (in Pakistan) passes via Varanasi, it connects Varanasi to Allahabd, Kanpur, Aligarh cities. National highway no. 7 longest national highway in India from Varanasi to Kanyakumari (in Tamil Nadu) originates from here and it connects Varanasi to central and southern parts of India.

Public transport

Cycle rickshaws in a busy street in Varanasi

Auto rickshaws and cycle rickshaws are the most widely available public transport within old city. In outer regions of the city, city-buses are common. Taxi is also available. Prepaid Auto cum Taxi Booth is there at Cant Railway Station and Babatpur Airport. Small boats and small steamers are available for tourists to the Ganges. Recently, Low floor city buses are introduced in the city under JNNURM scheme.

Media

In the 1898 book Following the Equator, American writer Mark Twain wrote about his visit to Varanasi saying that "Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together."[58]

Notable residents

See also

Template:Contains Indic text

Further reading

  • Lonely, Planet. Lonely Planet.
  • Parker, Arthur (1901). A Hand-Book of Benares. Travancore Government Press, Trivandrum.
  • Havell, E. B. (1905). Benares, the sacred city: sketches of Hindu life and religion. Blackie and Sons Ltd., London.
  • Sen, Rajani Ranjan (1912). The Holy City - Benares. M.R.Sen, Chittagong.

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