Ironworker (machine): Difference between revisions
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[[Image:Ironworker.triddle.jpg|thumb|250px|right|This particular machine stands over 6 ft (1.8 m) tall and can shear, notch, and punch precision holes in plate steel up to 5/8 in (15 mm) thick.]] |
[[Image:Ironworker.triddle.jpg|thumb|250px|right|This particular machine stands over 6 ft (1.8 m) tall and can shear, notch, and punch precision holes in plate steel up to 5/8 in (15 mm) thick.]] |
Revision as of 14:22, 4 February 2013
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Ironworker is a class of machines that can shear, notch, and punch holes in steel plate. There *may* have been a brand name called Ironworker, but no one has brought any evidence here yet. The name is definitely used now to refer to the whole class of machines (made by at least a dozen brands, such as Piranha, GEKA, Pedinghaus, etc.), so if there ever was a brand name, it has now become a genericized trademark. Ironworkers generate force using mechanical advantage or hydraulic systems. Modern systems use hydraulic rams powered by a heavy alternating current electric motor. High strength carbon steel blades and dies of various shapes are used to work the metal. The machine itself is made of very heavy steel to handle the enormous force that can be generated during use. Ironworkers are rated according to the force they can generate in tons; ratings usually start at 20 tons and go as high as 150 tons.
Ironworkers are tools just like hammers and wrenches but they provide many more safety hazards that must be addressed and thoroughly thought out before they are purchased. Most of them have at least 4 stations that require boundaries around them to safely produce parts. They can shear flat plate, angle iron, round and square stock as well as punch plates, angles, I-beam and channel. Some have a station for notching and forming of different materials. The area around each station should be at least 20 feet since that is the common stock length of most materials used on ironworkers. This creates problems for some shops but should not deter you in your purchase because most manufacturers sell basic machines that can help you in cramped areas.
Shearing is usually the first operation when preparing parts for weldments and assemblies. When shearing on an ironworker you should make sure the area is clear for the desired length of material to be cut, stands set under the material level with the blade cutting surface, and make sure the hold down and guarding is working properly. Mark your material to be cut, clearly or set the back gauge if the machine is equipped with one. Slide the material through the cutting area until it reaches your mark or back gauge, stop making sure to keep your hands clear of the hold downs and shear blades. If the machine has a manual hold down that must be turned down by hand, check your part to see if it's square to the blades and turn the hold down firmly against the part otherwise you are ready to shear. This is done by pressing down on a pedal and making sure that you stay clear of any moving parts and that no one is standing in the rear of the shearing area. Make sure you keep the pedal depressed until it completes the cycle. Turn the hold down to release the part.
Punching is usually the second operation performed on an ironworker. You can punch round, square, rectangular and obround holes. When punching any hole make sure the punch and die are lined up before powering up the machine. Irregular shapes sometimes require key ways or set screws to keep them aligned. Once alignment is established and die clearance to the punch has been checked you are ready to punch. You should either lay your hole pattern out on the plate or if so equipped set your stops on the gauging table. Make sure the area around the punch station is clear at least 36" where you are standing to avoid backing into a pallet or other obstruction and falling. Turn on the machine keeping your hands clear of the punching surface, make sure all guarding is set and in place, align your hole center up to the stop or with the drop center in the punch, depress the pedal and as soon as the slug comes free of the part release the pedal. Continue punching all holes until you are done.
Some parts require notching and can be done on an ironworker if it has the proper tooling. You would layout the required measurements and go to the notching station. Make sure the area you are standing in is clear at least 36" to avoid a tripping hazard. Check all guarding and make sure it is working properly and the condition of the blades. If the notcher has some type of hold down, make sure it's working properly. Some of the newer types of machines work so well that they cut the part evenly and may not need to be held down but clamps can be used if necessary. Position the part under the blades, turn on the machine keeping your hands free of the blades, depress the pedal and when the blade pierces through the part release the pedal and wait until it returns. Cut off the machine when done. Most notchers are safe, but like any other operation require strict attention and utilization of all guarding provided.
The last operation is usually forming or bending. If the machine has a bending attachment ( Punch and die ) you can bend certain sizes of parts with an ironworker. Usually you would layout the part to be formed. Some ironworkers may have a gauge to set the part by and should be set each time a new dimension is needed. Make sure the area is clear to 36" around the bending area to avoid tripping and falling and that all guarding is in place. Make sure to set the depth of the punch to the thickness of the part you are going to bend. This should be checked by every operator, before any bending operation to make sure that it is set correctly. If it's set to far down the punch WILL overbend your part and may destroy the die and even worse can severely injure you, the operator. If you do not know how to set the correct die clearance and experienced operator should show you how for the particular machine you are using. Turn on the machine and align the part with the center of the die. You usually need both hands for this operation and should make sure to keep them free of the punch and die and any moving parts. Depress the pedal and once it gets to the bottom of the stroke release the pedal and wait until it returns fully to its home position. You should now have a part that's ready to be welded or assembled and know how to do it again safely.
Due to the reduction in the amount of man hours and effort needed to cut or punch steel sections, an ironworker is often an integral part of commercial manufacturing facilities and fabrication shops. They are easily re-tooled for various operations and can be operated by one person.