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{{short description|British Army colonel|bot=PearBOT 5}}
{{short description|British Army colonel|bot=PearBOT 5}}
'''Colonel M W H (Henry) Day''', MA, CEng, MICE, [[Royal Engineers]] was a British Army Officer (retired 9 April 1997)<ref>London Gazette, Supplement No. 54735 14 April 1997. https://www.thegazette.co.uk/London/issue/54735/supplement/4467/data.pdf (accessed 29 December 2020)</ref>
'''Henry Day''' is a [[British Army]] [[colonel]] who made the first British ascent (second ever ascent) of [[Annapurna I]].<ref>{{cite web | last = Day | first = Henry | title = 'Alpine Journal' – Annapurna-North face route | url = http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1971_files/AJ%201971%2088-98%20Day%20Annapurna.pdf | access-date = 23 April 2016 }} </ref>
who made the first British ascent (second ever ascent) of [[Annapurna I]].<ref>{{cite web | last = Day | first = Henry | title = 'Alpine Journal' – Annapurna-North face route | url = http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1971_files/AJ%201971%2088-98%20Day%20Annapurna.pdf | access-date = 23 April 2016 }} </ref><ref> {{cite web | last = Day | first = Henry | title = 'Alpine Journal' – Annapurna Anniversaries | url = http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2010-11_files/AJ%202010-11%20179-189%20Day%20Annapurna.pdf | access-date = 2 May 2016}} </ref>
In addition to the first British ascent of Annapurna, he was an active member of the [[Army Mountaineering Association]] (AMA) and a member of the [[Alpine Club (UK)]] contributing to the [[Alpine Journal]]<ref>Contributors, Alpine Journal 1988 pp. 337. NB: Alpine Journal articles referred to hereafter can be found through the Alpine Journal search at https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Browse_search.html (accessed 29/12/2020)</ref>. He was an active climber in the Alps and took part in the first winter ascent of the Grands Charmoz with Rob Collister<ref>Rob Collister, “Grands Charmoz in Winter”, Alpine Journal 1976 pp 64-68</ref>. He was member of the AMA Tirich Mir (1969) expedition, summiting the peak <ref>Henry Day, “Tirich Mir 1969”, Alpine Journal 1979 pp. 79-86</ref>; the AMA Himachal Pradesh (1973) expedition<ref>Jon Fleming, “The Army Mountaineering Association Himachal Praedesh Expedition 1973”, Alpine Journal 1974 pp. 21-27</ref>; the [[1976 British and Nepalese Army Expedition to Everest]]<Ref>Major MWH Day, "Everest, 1976", Himalayan Journal 35 [1979] https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/35/9/everest-1976/ (Accessed 29 December 2020)</ref>. He led a Royal Engineers expedition to Trisul II (1978)<ref>PJ Horniblow, “In the steps of Shipton”, Alpine Journal 1979 pp. 154-157.</ref> and in 1981 a British Army expedition to the Da Xue Shan mountains in Sichuan province, China attempting to climb Jiaz (6540m)<ref>Henry Day, “Da Xue Shan, Sichuan, China”, Alpine Journal 1982 pp. 117-120</ref>. In 1987 Henry Day led the climbers attempting to climb the virgin east face of Xixabangma (8027m)<ref>Luke Hughes, “Xixabangma 1987 – Expedition Jade Venture”, Alpine Journal 1983 pp. 63-70</ref>, in China, organised by the Scientific Exploration Society with a view to conducting scientific research en route. In 2008 he organised a climbing expedition to the Georgian Causasus<ref>Henry Day, “Climbing and Kalashnikovs, Part II”, Alpine Journal 2008 pp. 174 – 189</ref>.


<ref> {{cite web | last = Day | first = Henry | title = 'Alpine Journal' – Annapurna Anniversaries | url = http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2010-11_files/AJ%202010-11%20179-189%20Day%20Annapurna.pdf | access-date = 2 May 2016}} </ref>
==References==
==References==
{{Reflist}}
{{Reflist}}

Revision as of 15:55, 29 December 2020

Colonel M W H (Henry) Day, MA, CEng, MICE, Royal Engineers was a British Army Officer (retired 9 April 1997)[1] who made the first British ascent (second ever ascent) of Annapurna I.[2][3] In addition to the first British ascent of Annapurna, he was an active member of the Army Mountaineering Association (AMA) and a member of the Alpine Club (UK) contributing to the Alpine Journal[4]. He was an active climber in the Alps and took part in the first winter ascent of the Grands Charmoz with Rob Collister[5]. He was member of the AMA Tirich Mir (1969) expedition, summiting the peak [6]; the AMA Himachal Pradesh (1973) expedition[7]; the 1976 British and Nepalese Army Expedition to Everest[8]. He led a Royal Engineers expedition to Trisul II (1978)[9] and in 1981 a British Army expedition to the Da Xue Shan mountains in Sichuan province, China attempting to climb Jiaz (6540m)[10]. In 1987 Henry Day led the climbers attempting to climb the virgin east face of Xixabangma (8027m)[11], in China, organised by the Scientific Exploration Society with a view to conducting scientific research en route. In 2008 he organised a climbing expedition to the Georgian Causasus[12].

References

  1. ^ London Gazette, Supplement No. 54735 14 April 1997. https://www.thegazette.co.uk/London/issue/54735/supplement/4467/data.pdf (accessed 29 December 2020)
  2. ^ Day, Henry. "'Alpine Journal' – Annapurna-North face route" (PDF). Retrieved 23 April 2016.
  3. ^ Day, Henry. "'Alpine Journal' – Annapurna Anniversaries" (PDF). Retrieved 2 May 2016.
  4. ^ Contributors, Alpine Journal 1988 pp. 337. NB: Alpine Journal articles referred to hereafter can be found through the Alpine Journal search at https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Browse_search.html (accessed 29/12/2020)
  5. ^ Rob Collister, “Grands Charmoz in Winter”, Alpine Journal 1976 pp 64-68
  6. ^ Henry Day, “Tirich Mir 1969”, Alpine Journal 1979 pp. 79-86
  7. ^ Jon Fleming, “The Army Mountaineering Association Himachal Praedesh Expedition 1973”, Alpine Journal 1974 pp. 21-27
  8. ^ Major MWH Day, "Everest, 1976", Himalayan Journal 35 [1979] https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/35/9/everest-1976/ (Accessed 29 December 2020)
  9. ^ PJ Horniblow, “In the steps of Shipton”, Alpine Journal 1979 pp. 154-157.
  10. ^ Henry Day, “Da Xue Shan, Sichuan, China”, Alpine Journal 1982 pp. 117-120
  11. ^ Luke Hughes, “Xixabangma 1987 – Expedition Jade Venture”, Alpine Journal 1983 pp. 63-70
  12. ^ Henry Day, “Climbing and Kalashnikovs, Part II”, Alpine Journal 2008 pp. 174 – 189