Corsetmaker
A corsetmaker is a specialist tailor who makes corsets. Corsetmakers are frequently known by the French equivalent terms corsetier (male) and corsetière (female). Stay-maker is an old obsolete name for a corsetmaker; the word: "stays" been replaced by "corset" after the Great Exhibition in 1851 because the new prizewinning French stays been named Hygienic Corset.[1]
The best corsetmakers are highly skilled tailors and have some knowledge of anatomy which enables them to make well-fitting, long-lasting corsets. In addition, corsetmakers who reproduce historical styles need to be familiar with historical fashions and costumes spanning hundreds of years of history.
Individual corsetmakers often favour a certain style and frequently have differing theories and opinions about the physical impact and benefits of various corsets, thereby influencing their corset design and creation.
Famous corsetmakers
- Thomas Paine, one of the Founding Fathers of the United States.
- Roxey Ann Caplin.[2]
- Cathrine Allsop Griswold[3]
- Daniel Kops[4]
- Fakir Musafar
Travelling corsetiers
Some companies had travelling saleswomen, corsetiers who order the tailored corsets from the company. Well-known is Spirella (1904–1989), Barcley , Spenser .
Considerations
The main consideration of corset design is duration of use. For short-term use, e.g. used for a special event such as a wedding, the corset will be rarely worn and will not show visible wear, therefore does not need to be of the highest quality of construction. For long-term use, e.g. by tightlacing or waist training, corsets must be made to exact standards and are best custom-fitted and designed for the individual wearer. If it has a single weakness or flaw, it will be visible. Some custom-made gowns have corsets built into the design; a talented dressmaker may also be a skilled corset-maker.
Example of a Corsetmakers work
The first step in a corset make is identify the customers type of body shape. The more fat, the fewer alternative corsets.[5]
Slender Figures
Medium Figure
Stout Figure
14 variants!
See also
References
- ^ our Hygienic Corset, it is either pirated or attempted by almost every staymaker in London and Paris
- ^ MADAME CAPLIN'S INVENTIONS FOR THE ADAPTATION OF THE DRESS TO THE BODY; THE PRESERVATION OF HEALTH; The Cure of Deformity, and the Display of Beauty.
- ^ U. S. patent of corsets, no.: 56210; 61825; 116585; 157445; 171012; 181330; 201177; 291335; 291336; 291337; 291338; 358348; 358349; 392195; 392196; 392197; 392198; 392199; 392200; 392201; D18919; D18920; D18921; D18922; D18923; D19234; D19235; D19236; D19237; D19238; D19239; D19240; R4427; R7895; R10935; R10939.
- ^ U. S. Patents only about corsets no.: 496124; 582748; 587553; 593397; 610063; 611068; 631079; 654403; 683297; 694160; 694161; 712312; 727385; 766630; 766704; 766705; 766706; 777423; 785502; 788915; 790061; 794029; 796845; 798967; 813805; 824489; 824490; 832390; 851525; 892742; 898749; 898750; 913404; 914732; 919028; 919890; 928669; 946231; 961501; 967645; 968365; 975771; 975772; 1019487; 1020764; 1030190; 1032146; 1042125; 1042126; 1044191; 1047083; 1058183; 1062977; 1072128; 1072862; 1082273; 1099056; 1127023; 1127024; 1135698; 1152109; 1152954; 1170282; 1170283; 1202010; 1212963; 1213658; 1214180; 1215287; 1215550; 1233251; 1234549; 1241400; 1253053; 1254512; 1256576; 1260211; 1307132; 1317508; 1318156; 1318884; 1321059; 1328086; 1328675; 1365504; 1366811; 1399486; 1399487; 1400294; 1432470; 1458767; 1478232; 1479076; 1494920; 1495750; 1496578; 1499109; RE12120; RE15134.
- ^ Spirella Catalogue
Books
- Doyle R. (1997)Waisted Efforts, An Illustrated Guide To Corset Making. Nova Scotia, Sartorial Press Publications, ISBN 0-9683039-0-0
- Tight Linings and Boning Mary Brooks Picken, 1920
- The Practical Corsetiere Mme Ruth A. Rosenfeld 1933
- The Basics Of Corset Building, A Handbook For Beginners by Linda Sparks (Author) ISBN-10: 0973735805
- Caplin - Health and Beauty (1864)