User:Maestral/Rastoke

Contributor note: Please do not edit! Translating and adapting from German Wikipedia article.

Rastoke [ˈrastɔkɛ] is the historic center of the Croatian municipality of Slunj. This old part of Slunj is very famous for its well-preserved old mills (dating back to the 17. century), out of which some are still in use, and the picturesque little waterfalls along the Slunjčica and Korana rivers that unite at this place. The Korana river flows through the Plitvice Lakes National Park before it reaches Slunj.

Just as at the Plitvice Lakes, similar natural phenomena are occurring at Rastoke. Therefore Croats often refer to this place as the "the Small Plitvice Lakes". Via the Korana river, Slunj and the Plitvice Lakes are directly connected.

The town of Slunj developed right at the branching of the Slunjčica and Korana rivers. The watermills largely contributed to the development of Slunj as the center of the region of Kordun.

Definition

Rastoke has different meanings. On the one hand, Rastoke refers to the branching of rivers. In this case, the Slunjčica river - also called Slušnica by local people - splits into several river branches and flows across cascades and small waterfalls into the Korana river. On the other hand, Rastoke refers to a certain kind of limestone, which when soluted into calcium carbonate by the natural effect of dissolution through carbon dioxide is called rastopina or rastok in the Croatian language. By this effect of dissolution and permanent sedimentation of calcium carbonate, new rock is being created along the river's cascades.

First Mention

The first time Rastoke has been mentioned in a written document was in 1860 in a travel report by Adolfo Veber Tkalčević, a priest, philologist and writer. He mentions the amazingly beautiful, greenish Slunjčica river that has created many beauties along its quite short flow. Tkalčević also mentions the "cold-bloodedness" of many local citizens that do not seem to share the same enthusiasm about natural beauties those days and rarely visit them.

Belsazar Hacquet, another author of travel literature and author of Oryctographia Carniolica (1789) describes the waterfalls of the Slunjčica river even as the most beautiful he had ever seen.

About the Town of Slunj

In the medieval age the region around Slunj was known as no mans land, an uncertain border region between Europe and the Ottoman Empire. The fortification of Slovin built by the Frankopans was then known as secure refuge. Later the town of Slunj developed around this fortification. The fortress has been destroyed in 1578 but was rebuilt after that. Only after the Treaty of Sistova in 1791 a period of increased resettlement commenced.

Slunj flourished during the short period of French reign from 1809 until 1813 as municipal streets, warehouses and mills have been constructed and as vineyards and mulberry trees have been planted. During this time, Croatian became the official language of the country. The house in which the former governor general of the French Illyrian Provinces marshal Auguste Marmont stayed still exists.

The first written document, in which the town is mentioned, was written by the famous chronicler baron Janez Vajkard Valvasor who describes the fortified town of Slunj, a bridge and a mill in 1689. The first depiction of the mills of Rastoke dates back to 1789 when a copper engraving of the mills has been added to the travel report by Hacquet. S. Širola described Rastoke as follows: "The surroundings of Slunj are simply romantic [...]. They are crowned by the great waterfalls of the Slunjčica river by which even not outspoken nature lovers will be captivated or astonished. Indeed, Slunj with its romantic surroundings and the silver waterfalls of the Slunjčica represent a true gem of nature envied even by foreigners."

In 1963, the Austrian writer Heimito von Doderer completed his novel "The Waterfalls of Slunj" (German "Die Wasserfälle von Slunj") which is set in the 19. century. During the 20. century scientific research has been conducted in the area of Slunj and Rastoke. During the 19. century and at the beginning of the 20. century Rastoke has been knwon as the center of social life in this region. With the invention of electric mills and massive emigration after the Second World War the economic significance of the mills of Rastoke declined dramatically.

The Slunjčica river and its natural phenomena

In the region of Lika, within the massif of the Mala Kapela mountain and just beneath the Veliki Javornik top, lies the source of the Jesenica river. After only six kilometers this river disappears under the earth at Lička Jasenica and continues on a subterranean track for about 20 kilometers, as many other rivers in this karst region of Croatia. The river reemerges 6,5 kilometers south of Slunj as river Slunjčica.

At the passing of the Slunjčica into the Korana river, nature has created a 500 meters wide and 200 meters long travertine barreer. This impressive layer of lime is a deposit of huge concentrations of calcium in the water, which accumulates when passing through subterranean channels and which sediments at Rastoke. Rastoke and the travertine bareer itself use to be separated into the Upper and the Lower Rastoke (Croatian "Gornje i donje Rastoke"). The lower part of Rastoke consists of 23 waterfalls, which fall about 10 to 20 meters deep into the Korana. The bareer as a whole consists of various small waterfalls and basins.

Apart from mushrooms and moss that flourish well in this climate of high air moisture the following larger plants can be found: Burr, poplars, aspen, willow trees, lime trees and alders.

Already in 1865, the Croatian writer Đuro Deželić observed high quality crabs and trouts in the water. Once even badgers and otters could be found here.

Due to its relatively short surface flow the water temperature of the Slunjčica is always lower than the water temperature of the nearby Korana river. The temperature varies from 6,5 to 7 °C during winter and the maximum of 16 °C during summer. In summer, the maximum temperature of the Korana river is about 28 °C. In case of high air temperature variations with regard to the water temperature of the Slunjčica parts of Rastoke are covered by fog, which happens quite frequently; the trees in the vicinity of the water are therefore frequently covered by dew.

Architecture and human influence

Apart from the astonishing natural beauties of this area, Rastoke is particularly interesting for its civilizational and traditional features. Along the travertine barrier houses and small mills have been built in the unique style of this region, a combination of the Dinaric and the Posavina architectural style. The ground parts of the houses are made out of limestone, while the higher parts consist of wood. The roofs are made by shingle or tiles.

Due to high concentrations of calcium that regularly sediments at the openings between the cellar stones the ground parts have been covered by a layer of sinter. Thus, water could not run into the houses even at high water levels.

At its peak, Rastoke counted up to 22 mills. They were all called by the names of the families that carried out this profession. Among others, the following families were well-known in this business: Jareb, Vučeta, Žalac, Petrović, Holjevac, Močan, Kovačević, Rožin, Štefanac and Skukan.

The mills of Rastoke were driven by horizontally-aligned scoop wheels. By utilizing a simple mechanism, water could be directed on to these scoop wheels whenever necessary. They in turn powered the rotating millstone. In order accumulate enough power a downward water fall of about three to five meters with an inclination of the wooden slope of at least 35 degrees was necessary.

Every mill had two or three, some even more millstones. Most millstones were used for grinding so called "black corn". This term then comprised the following sorts: maize, rye, barley, millet and oat. The best stones have been used for grinding so called "white corn" or wheat. The milling fees were about eight to ten percent of the delivered amount of corn.

Often there have been attempts of cheating and concealing real amounts of corn. The millers had the difficult task of detecting such behavior. The relationship between the miller and his customers however was generally regarded as sacred. The profession of being a miller lasted for a lifetime and was passed on to the sons for centuries. The abandonment of this profession only happened in cases of severe disputes. This was regarded as a great shame.

Except for grinding, water power has also been used for the pounding or finalizing of woolen cloths. These cloths have once been regarded as most important clothing materials.

Even then, a traditional form of a washing machine has been used for washing clothes. The people of Rastoke used the same technological principle of todays washing machines: The clothes were washed in a rotating barrel with holes that was powered by the water flow.

The people of Rastoke have also been known for the weaving of flax and hemp. The plants were grown by local people, soaked into the water of the Korana and then used for weaving. This was one of the main occupations of women, particularly during the cold winter months. The traditional costume of Slunj and Rastoke consists of these materials.

Tradition and local cuisine

Apart from nature and architecture the traditional customs of the region of Kordun are inextricably linked with Rastoke. The relationship between the millers and the rest of the population, the grinding technique, the treatment of herbal textiles and wool, the customs, the language, the costumes and much more for centuries had its impact on the living style of the people of Slunj and its surroundings.

The bread from Rastoke was well known all over this part of Croatia. It was famous for being brittle, sweet and particularly tasty. The women of Rastoke frequently passed on the recipe and hints for baking this bread to guests. However, the bread that was made in other places never reached the desired quality as if made in Rastoke. The secret of this bread was that it was made out of freshly grinded corn, an combination of wheat, maize, barley, rye and millet. This exclusive mixture was kneaded by using the water of the Slunjčica and housemade yeast for swelling. The flour had to be grinded traditionally, by millstones driven by water power, not by electric power.

Rastoke are also famous for its grilled trouts out of the cold Slunjčica river. Originally Lisac and Šušnjar, two autochthonous sorts of grape-vine were grown in this region. These sorts, however, have been eradicated by phylloxera.

Ecological balance

Rastoke could be regarded as a living organism that vibrates according to the pulse of time. However, in Rastoke the unstable balance between nature and man can be observed too. During the night of the 6. to the 7. March 1914 a huge slide of the travertine barrier occurred due to the undercutting by the Korana river. This forever changed the outlook of the two most beautiful waterfalls Hrvoje and Vilina kosa (fairy hair). Even today huge remnants of travertine hinder flow of the Korana river.

In 1962 Rastoke has been put under protection by the Croatian Institute for Conservation. In 1969 it was put under monument protection. Anyhow, the overall architectural composition of this part of town has been changed by the construction of road bridges across the Korana and Slunjčica .

During the War in Croatia (1991–1995) many century-old houses have been partly destroyed. Particularly the attempted blast of the giant road bridge across the Korana by Serbian paramilitary troops before fleeing town in August 1995 caused substantial damage on the roofs of the traditional houses. Many of them burnt down. The unprofessionally conducted detonation, however, caused only very limited harm to the road bridge. It could be reopened for traffic only several months later. Far greater and irreversible damage, however, has been caused to the great waterfall Buk. Local Serb militias that actually felt that this was their home region severely damaged the waterfall by throwing explosives on it during the time of occupation. Part of the natural heritage has thus been irreversibly destroyed.

After the end of war this historic part of Slunj has been reconstructed so that hardly any damage can be seen today. Rastoke now represents the basis for the development of the town of Slunj and the surrounding region of Kordun. As a place of autochthonous ecologic and ethnographic significance, Rastoke is developing as a tourist center chracterized by traditional architecture, gastronomic pleasures and specific local cultural customs. Rastoke is again becoming an important interstation on the way to or from the Adriatic Sea worth visiting. The region offers many activities for recreation, such as swimming, canoeing, fishing, hunting, mountainbiking, hiking, riding, or even the visiting of caves (Baraćeve špilje).

Development

This historic part of the town of Slunj has recently been renovated, since it has been hit very severely during the Croatian war of Independence (1991-1995). Tourism is slowly beginning to develop in this poor Croatian region, also renowned for fishing and hunting.

Gallery

Waterfall in Rastoke
View on a waterfall from the north
Waterfalls on the Slunjčica river
Water falling into the Korana river
The Canyon of the Korana
Large waterfall, partly destroyed by Serb paramilitaries during the Croatian War of Independence (1991-95)
Old corn mill in Rastoke
Wheel that is being driven by the flow of water