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Janja Garnbret

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Janja Garnbret
Garnbret at the 2017 Boulder World Cup in Munich
Personal information
NationalitySlovenian
Born (1999-03-12) March 12, 1999 (age 25)
Slovenj Gradec, Slovenia[1]
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height1.64 m (5 ft 5 in)[2]
Websitejanja-garnbret.com
Climbing career
Type of climberSport climbing, bouldering
Highest grade
Known forBeing the only climber in history to sweep a Bouldering World Cup season, and to win 14 World titles (8 World Cup discipline titles and 6 World Championships).
Medal record
Event 1st 2nd 3rd
World Championship 6 1 0
European Championships 1 2 0
World Games 0 1 0
World Championships
Gold medal – first place 2016 Lead
Gold medal – first place 2018 Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2018 Combined
Gold medal – first place 2019 Lead
Gold medal – first place 2019 Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2019 Combined
Silver medal – second place 2018 Lead
European Championships
Gold medal – first place 2017 Combined
Silver medal – second place 2015 Lead
Silver medal – second place 2017 Bouldering
World Games
Silver medal – second place 2017 Lead
Updated on April 17, 2021

Janja Garnbret (born March 12, 1999) is a Slovenian rock climber and sport climber who has won multiple lead climbing and bouldering events.

Garnbret won her first international title in the lead competition at the 2014 World Youth B Championships. In July 2015, just after turning 16, she started competing in the senior category of the Lead Climbing World Cup. Since then, she participated in 34 Lead Climbing World Cup events, missing the podium in only four of them.[2] She is considered the world's best female competitive climber.[3]

In 2016, aged 17, Garnbret won the seasonal titles of the IFSC Climbing World Cup in lead and combined, World Championships in lead climbing, and World Youth A Championships in both lead climbing and bouldering. From 2016 to 2018, she was awarded the seasonal title in both lead climbing and combined disciplines. In both 2018 and 2019, she won the World Championships in bouldering and combined, and also reclaimed the lead title in 2019. The same year, Garnbret became the first athlete to win all bouldering World Cup events in a season. Throughout six events, she placed first in six qualifications,[4] four semifinals,[5] and six finals,[6] topping 74 out of 78 boulder problems overall.

Early life

Janja Garnbret began climbing at the age of seven. She competed for the first time at a national competition, when she was eight. Her first major competition was the 2013 European Youth Championships in bouldering, which she won.[7]

Competitions

In 2015, her first year of eligibility for the IFSC Climbing World Cup, she placed seventh in the overall lead climbing standings.[8][9] The same year, she also placed first in a notable Swedish bouldering event, the "La Sportiva Legends Only", ahead of Shauna Coxsey, Mélissa Le Nevé, Juliane Wurm, and Anna Stöhr.[10] She also won the bouldering gathering Melloblocco in 2015.[11]

In 2016, she won most of the IFSC competitions in which she participated. She won the World Cup in lead and combined disciplines, the World Championships in lead, and the World Youth Championships in lead and bouldering.[12] Garnbret also won the Adidas Rockstars 2016 contest (an invitational contest for the world's best bouldering athletes), defeating Jessica Pilz in the superfinal.[13] She also won Rock Master in 2016, and then again in 2018.[14]

In 2017, she won the World Cup in lead and combined disciplines, the combined title in the European Championships, and ranked second in bouldering in the World Cup and the European Championships.

In 2018, she defended her World Cup titles in lead and combined disciplines, and placed fourth in bouldering by winning two golds and one silver, after participating in just 3 out of 7 events (due to school commitments). Moreover, she won the World Championships in both bouldering and combined. She was close to also winning the Lead Climbing World Championships, where she earned the silver medal by topping the final route in 4 minutes and 38 seconds, just 11 seconds slower than Jessica Pilz, who won the Championship.

In 2019, she dominated the bouldering World Cup by solving 74 problems out of 78 and winning every event throughout the season (6 events out of 6).[15] This feat had never been achieved before in the history of competition climbing. Anna Stöhr was almost able to do the same in 2013, when she won seven bouldering World Cup events out of eight. The same year, Garnbret won three out of four disciplines at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, taking gold in lead, bouldering, and combined.[16] Her win in the Combined Event qualified her for a spot at the 2020 Summer Olympics. [17]

In 2021, she began the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup season with a win in bouldering at Meiringen in April before finishing second in Salt Lake City, ending her streak of bouldering World Cup wins at nine.[18]

Garnbret as the 2017 European champion in combined discipline
Janja Garnbret climbing at the 2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup in Munich, Germany

Rock climbing

In addition to her competition climbing career, Janja Garnbret is also an accomplished outdoor climber, completing the ascents of various extremely difficult routes.

In 2015 she on-sighted the route Avatar, an 8b (5.13d) route in Pandora, Croatia.[19] The same year she successfully climbed her first 8c+ (5.14c), Miza za šest at Kotečnik in her home country of Slovenia.[20] The next year she flashed La Fabelita at Santa Linya in Spain, an 8c (5.14b) sports climbing route. She was given advice by her countrywoman Mina Markovič and climbed the route in less than 15 minutes.[21] In 2017 she went one step further and clipped the anchor of her first 9a (5.14d), Seleccio Natural, again at Santa Linya.[22] Just a few days later she climbed her second 9a route, La Fabela pa la Enmienda, also at Santa Linya.[23]

Rankings

See also: Best IFSC results and Janja Garnbret in the Climbing World Cup

Climbing World Cup

[24]

Discipline 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019
Lead 7 1 1 1 2
Bouldering — 17 2 4 1
Speed — — — 58 48
Combined — 1 1 1 1

Climbing World Championships

Youth[2]

Discipline 2013
Youth B 		2014
Youth B 		2015
Youth A 		2016
Youth A
Lead 4 1 1 1
Bouldering — — 1 1
Speed — — 23 28
Combined — — 2[25] 2[26]

Senior[2]

Discipline 2016 2018 2019
Lead 1 2 1
Bouldering — 1 1
Speed — 47 23
Combined — 1 1

Climbing European Championships

Youth[2]

Discipline 2013
Youth B 		2014
Youth B 		2015
Youth A
Lead 1 1 1
Bouldering 1 1 1

Senior[2]

Discipline 2015 2017
Lead 2 4
Bouldering — 2
Speed — 32
Combined — 1

World Cup podiums

As of July 3, 2021, Garnbret has won 30 World Cup events and has a total of 47 podium finishes.[2]

Lead

Season First Second Third Total
2015 2 1 3
2016 4 2 6
2017 6 2 8
2018 4 3 7
2019 1 2 3
2020 1 1
2021 2 2
Total 17 8 5 30

Bouldering

Season First Second Third Total
2016 1 1
2017 3 1 4
2018 2 1 3
2019 6 6
2021 2 1 3
Total 13 4 0 17

See also

References

  1. ^ "Podelitev Bloudkovih priznanj za leto 2018" (PDF). gov.si (in Slovenian). Retrieved December 17, 2020.
  2. ^ a b c d e f g IFSC (ed.). "Garnbret's profile and rankings". Retrieved April 17, 2021.
  3. ^ "Why is Janja Garnbret the best competition climber ever". 5c Climbers. May 4, 2021. Retrieved May 31, 2021.
  4. ^ Qualifications in the 2019 Bouldering World Cup:
    • "Meiringen". April 6, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Moscow". April 14, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Chongquing". April 28, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Wujiang". May 5, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Munich". May 19, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Vail". June 8, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
  5. ^ Semifinals in the 2019 Bouldering World Cup:
    • "Meiringen". April 6, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Moscow". April 14, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Chongquing". April 28, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Wujiang". May 5, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Munich". May 19, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Vail". June 8, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
  6. ^ Finals in the 2019 Bouldering World Cup:
    • "Meiringen". April 6, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Moscow". April 14, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Chongquing". April 28, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Wujiang". May 5, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Munich". May 19, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Vail". June 8, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
  7. ^ "Janja Garnbret Interview". klettern (in German). Retrieved June 14, 2019.
  8. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2015: W O M E N lead".
  9. ^ Murray, Emma (July 25, 2016), "Janja Garnbret Dominates Lead World Cup, Again", Rock & Ice
  10. ^ Ketchum, Chris (November 30, 2015), "Janja Garnbret Dominates La Sportiva Legends Only", Rock & Ice.
  11. ^ "MELLOBLOCCO 2015 – The year of the women".
  12. ^ Athlete profile, International Federation of Sport Climbing, retrieved August 1, 2016.
  13. ^ Adidas ROCKSTARS 2016, retrieved October 19, 2017.
  14. ^ "Rock Master Hall of Fame – Rock Master Festival 2019". Retrieved September 4, 2019.
  15. ^ IFSC, ed. (June 7, 2019). "2019 Bouldering World Cup – Full results". Retrieved June 22, 2019.
  16. ^ S. J.; R. K. (August 20, 2019). "Zgodovinski zlati trojček superšampionke Janje" (in Slovenian). RTV Slovenija. Retrieved January 31, 2020.
  17. ^ Nagatsuka, Kaz (20 August 2019). "Sport climbers Janja Garnbret, Akiyo Noguchi achieve dream by qualifying for 2020 Olympics". The Japan Times.
  18. ^ Berry, Natalie (31 May 2021). "IFSC Boulder and Speed World Cup Salt Lake City 2021 (Round 2): Report". UKC. Retrieved 1 June 2021.
  19. ^ "Janja Garnbret climbs 8b onsight in Croatia". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved October 9, 2018.
  20. ^ http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/janja-garnbret-climbs-8c-at-kotecnik-in-slovenia.html>
  21. ^ "Janja Garnbret flashes second 8c at Santa Linya". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved October 9, 2018.
  22. ^ "Janja Garnbret climbs her first 9a at Santa Linya in Spain". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved October 8, 2018.
  23. ^ "Santa Linya sends by Janja Garnbret and Jakob Schubert". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved October 16, 2018.
  24. ^ IFSC (ed.). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  25. ^ Combined results WYCH 2015
  26. ^ Combined results WYCH 2016
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