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Jeogori

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Jeogori
A white jeogori with red goreum (ribbon)
Korean name
Hangul
저고리
Revised Romanizationjeogori
McCune–Reischauerchŏgori

The jeogori (Template:Lang-ko Korean pronunciation: [t͡ɕʌ̹ɡo̞ɾi]) is a basic upper garment of the hanbok, a traditional Korean garment, which has been worn by both men and women.[1] Men usually wear the jeogori with a baji or pants while women wear the jeogori with chima, or skirts. It covers the arms and upper part of the wearer's body.[2][3][4]

Etymology

The jeogori has been worn since ancient times and went by a variety of names such as yu (유, 襦), boksam (복삼, 複杉), and uihae (위해, 尉解) in the Three Kingdoms period (57 BC - 668 AD). Although it is unknown when the term jeogori began to be used to refer the garment, it is assumed to have appeared in the late Goryeo period around King Chungnyeol's reign. The first historical document to mention the jeogori is Cheongjeonui (천전의, 遷奠儀) for Queen Wongyeong (원경왕후), which was a funeral ceremony for carrying the coffin out of the palace. The document written in 1420 during the second reign of Sejong the Great records jeokgori (赤古里) and danjeokgori (短赤古里). However, it is not clear whether the record is a hanja (Chinese character) transliteration of a Korean word or Mongolian influence. Before the Goryeo period, such an upper garment was referred to as "uihae" (위해, 尉解) in Silla. As the uihae was a transliteration of the Silla language, dialect forms such as uti and uchi still remain to present.[2][3][4]

Composition

Jeogori composition: 1. hwajang 2. godae 3. kkeutdong (somae buri) 4. somae 5. goreum 6. u 7. doryeon 8, 11. jindong 9. gil 10. baerae 12. git 13. dongjeong

Traditionally, a Jeogori is made out of leather, woolen fabrics, silk, hemp or ramie.[5][6][7] Modern Korean designers sometimes use other materials such as lace.[5][8]

The basic form of a Jeogori consists of gil, git, dongjeong, goreum and sleeves somae. Gil (길) is the large section of the garment in both front and back side and git (깃) is a band of fabric that trims the collar. Dongjeong (동정) is a removable white collar placed over the end of the git and is generally squared off. The goreum (고름) are coat strings attached to the breast part to tie the jeogori.[9] Women's jeogori may have kkeutdong (끝동), a different colored cuff placed on the end of the sleeves. The form of jeogri has been changed as time goes by.[4]

There are several types of jeogori according to fabric, sewing technique, and shape.[4]

History

The earliest known depictions of the jeogori are on Goguryeo murals.[10]

The original silhouette for Hanbok Jeogori shared similarities with the clothing of the ancient nomadic people of Eurasia due to the cultural exchanges that ancient Koreans had with the Scythians.[11][12] The ancient jeogori had an open form, a collar which crossed to the left, narrow sleeves, and was hip-length which were similar features found in the Scythian clothing-style.[11][13] Some ancient jeogori also had a front central closure similar to a kaftan;[14] this form of jeogori with a central closure is mostly found during the Goguryeo period and was worn by people of lower status.[15] The jeogori initially closed with the front, central closure; it then changed to left closure before changing again to right closure.[14]

The change in collars direction from right-to-left (i.e. left closure) to left-over-right (i.e. right closure), along with the use of wide sleeves, which are found in many jackets and coats were due ancient Chinese influences; these Chinese influences on the jeogori are reflected and depicted in Goguryeo paintings.[16][17] The closure of the jeogori on the right side is an imitation of the Chinese jackets.[18] The closure to the right became an accepted standard since the sixth century AD.[14]

The Jeogori of the Ruling class of Silla is influenced from Chinese Tang influence in the Silla Dynasty by Kim Chun-Chu (648CE). But the most commoners wore only a style of indigenous Jeogori distinct from that of the Ruling class of Silla.[19]

Previously in Korea, jackets were worn over bottom garments.[5]

During the Koryo Period (918–1392), jeogori became shorter, with slimmer sleeves.[5]

In the Joseon Period, jeogori lengths and style fluctuated depending on current fashion and social standing.[5]

In the 16th century, women's jeogori were long, wide, and covered the waist. The length of women's jeogori gradually shortened. A heoritti (허리띠) or jorinmal (졸잇말) was worn to cover the chest. [10] This was to fit in style with a large wig and skirt. [20]

Modern Styles

In contemporary Korea, the sumptuary laws within different social classes were lifted and colors, decorations, and fabrics that were exclusive to the upper classes were open to all classes. This allowed for the growth of diverse traditional design elements in hanbok styles. However, in the 20th and 21st centuries, traditional Korean clothing has not been worn every day by most people.[5] Hanbok became more reserved for special events, such as ceremonial or bridal wear, which carries onto current time.[5] During their own engagement celebrations, women may wear pink jeogori.[21] After they are married, women may wear indigo jeogori.[21] Additionally, modern silhouettes are commonly slimmer and more simplified then historical styles.[5][22]

  • Jeogori for women
    Jeogori for women

See also

References

  1. ^ Lee, Samuel Songhoon (17 December 2015). Hanbok: Timeless Fashion Tradition. Seoul Selection. ISBN 9781624120565. Retrieved 2 February 2021.
  2. ^ a b 저고리 (in Korean). Empas / EncyKorea. Retrieved 2008-09-29.
  3. ^ a b 저고리 (in Korean). Doosan Encyclopedia. Retrieved 2013-10-15.
  4. ^ a b c d 저고리 (in Korean). Empas / Britannica. Retrieved 2008-09-29.
  5. ^ a b c d e f g h Encyclopedia of Modern Asia. Ed. Karen Christensen and David Levinson. Vol. 2. New York, NY: Charles Scribner's Sons, 2002. p120-121. Web.
  6. ^ "V&A · Jogakbo – traditional Korean patchwork". Victoria and Albert Museum. Retrieved 2019-05-10.
  7. ^ 박, 선희 (1998) [1998]. "고대 한국의 복식 재료 : 가죽과 모직 The Clothing Material in Ancient Korea - leather and woolen fabrics -". Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association. 53p: Types of leather and processed goods=83,82,20 Woolen Fabrics and processed goods=114,113,15. ISSN 1226-1548 – via KSI.
  8. ^ "Hanbok ensemble with black lace Yeonan Kim Clan jacket and cream skirt - Victoria & Albert Museum - Search the Collections". m.vam.ac.uk. Retrieved 2019-05-10.
  9. ^ "Traditional clothing". KBS World. Archived from the original on 2008-03-17. Retrieved 2013-10-17.
  10. ^ a b 허윤희. "조선 여인 저고리 길이 300년간 2/3나 짧아져". 조선닷컴 (in Korean). Retrieved 6 September 2019.
  11. ^ a b 김, 문자 (1984). "고대한국복식의 원류에 관한 연구 : 스키타이계 복식문화를 중심으로". EWHA WOMANS UNIVERSITY LIBRARY. Retrieved 6 February 2021.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  12. ^ 김, 소희; 채, 금석 (2018). "스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구,고대 한국과의 관계를 중심으로Scythai's clothing type and style focusing on the relationship with ancient Korea" (PDF). Journal of the Korea Fashion & Costume Design Association. 20: 61–77. doi:10.30751/kfcda.2018.20.1.61.
  13. ^ Chang, Youngsoo (2020-04-30). "Empirical Review of the Scythian Origin Theory of Ancient Korean Costumes : Analysis of Commonalities and Differences Between Artifacts of the two Costume Types". Journal of the Korean Society of Costume. 70 (2): 188–208. doi:10.7233/jksc.2020.70.2.188. ISSN 1229-6880.
  14. ^ a b c Lee, Samuel Songhoon (2013). Hanbok : Timeless fashion tradition. Han'guk Kukche Kyoryu Chaedan. Seoul, Korea. ISBN 978-1-62412-056-5. OCLC 944510449.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  15. ^ Shim, Hwa-jin (2001). "An Analysis and Comparison of the Characteristics of Traditional Hanbok and Everyday(daily) Hanbok Focusing on the Basic Dress" (PDF). Journal of Fashion Business (패션비즈니스). 5 (5): 77–86. Archived from the original on 2001. {{cite journal}}: Check date values in: |archive-date= (help)
  16. ^ Yi, Kyŏng-ja; 李 京子 (2003). Uri ot kwa changsin'gu : Han'guk chŏnt'ong poksik, kŭ wŏnhyŏng ŭi mihak kwa silche. Na-yŏng Hong, Suk-hwan Chang, Mi-ryang Yi, 洪 那英., 張 淑煥., 李 美亮 (Ch'op'an ed.). Sŏul: Yŏrhwadang. ISBN 89-301-0048-1. OCLC 53475264.
  17. ^ Yi, Kyŏng-ja (2005). Traditional Korean costume. Na-yŏng Hong, Suk-hwan Chang, Mi-ryang Yi. Folkestone, Kent, UK: Global Oriental. ISBN 978-1-905246-04-5. OCLC 62864892.
  18. ^ Costumes d'enfants : miroir des grands : Établissement public du musée des arts asiatiques Guimet, 20 octobre 2010-24 janvier 2011. Aurélie Samuel, Musée Guimet. Paris: Réunion des musées nationaux. 2010. p. 68. ISBN 978-2-7118-5759-3. OCLC 700141350.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
  19. ^ Lee, Han-sang (2014). "신라 복식의 변천과 그 배경Transformations of Costume in Silla through Time and Their Background". The Journal of the Research Institute for Silla Culture. 43: 137–171.
  20. ^ Gyungja Lee. "저고리". Encyclopedia of Korean Culture (in Korean).
  21. ^ a b "Jacket". Th Victoria and Albert Museum. Retrieved May 9, 2019.
  22. ^ Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. Ed. Valerie Steele. Vol. 1. Detroit, MI:Charles Scribner's Sons, 2005. p82-85. Web.
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