Anna Wintour Costume Center
Established | 2014 |
---|---|
Location | 1000 5th Avenue, New York City |
Coordinates | 40°46′46″N 73°57′47″W / 40.779447°N 73.96311°W |
Director | Andrew Bolton[1] |
Public transit access | Subway: to 86th Street Bus: M1, M2, M3, M4, M79, M86 |
Website | Official website |
The Anna Wintour Costume Center is a wing of the Metropolitan Museum of Art that houses the collection of the Costume Institute. The center is named after Anna Wintour, the longtime and current editor-in-chief of Vogue, artistic director of Condé Nast, and chair of the museum's annual Met Gala (often called the "Met Ball")[2] since 1995. It was endowed by Lizzie and Jonathan Tisch.[3] As of August 2017, the curator is Andrew Bolton.[4]
The center was formally opened by the First Lady of the United States Michelle Obama on May 5, 2014.[5] Guests included Sarah Jessica Parker, Diane Von Furstenberg, Tory Burch, Zac Posen, Ralph Lauren, and Donatella Versace.[6][7][8][9]
History
In 1902, wealthy philanthropists Irene and Alice Lewisohn began to volunteer at the Henry Street Settlement House in New York, a community center that provided social services and healthcare to immigrant families.[10] Alice, who acted in plays herself, began working as a drama teacher, while Irene devoted herself to dance productions. In 1914, the sisters bought a lot on the corner of Grand and Pitt Streets and donated it to the Settlement for building a new theater. The Neighborhood Playhouse opened in 1915. By 1920, the theater employed professional actors, and it was known for its experimental productions and its revue "The Grand Street Follies."[11] Theater designer Aline Bernstein served her apprenticeship there from 1915-1924 designing costumes and stage sets.
The Playhouse closed in 1927, but the company continued to produce plays on Broadway under the management of Helen F. Ingersoll. In 1928, with Rita Wallach Morganthau, the Lewisohns established the Neighborhood Playhouse School of the Theatre at East 54th Street, where it became an actor training school and students were offered a two-year program formal drama and dance training to become professionals.[11]
During their years of running the school theatre and producing plays, a body of knowledge was formed about acting, theater production, and costume, set and stage design. In 1937, Irene Lewisohn opened a home for this library, the Museum of Costume Art, on Fifth Avenue. Aline Bernstein served as the first President and Polaire Weissman as its first Executive Director.[12] After Irene Lewisohn's death in 1944, Lord & Taylor president Dorothy Shaver worked to bring the collection to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Shaver believed that this would strengthen the American fashion industry and raised $350,000 from New York garment manufacturers to finance the transaction.[13] The Costume Art museum was became part of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1946, becoming The Costume Institute but was independently run until 1959 when it became a curatorial department in the museum.[14] The Met is now home to the Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library.
Since 1946, with help from the fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert, the institute has hosted the annual Met Gala to raise money for operating expenses.[15]
In 2008, the American Costume Collection of the Brooklyn Museum merged into the Costume Institute, a cost-saving scheme coming after years of close collaboration between the two organizations. The collection of the Brooklyn museum is older, having been formed from private donations by former New York high society personalities, beginning with the donation in 1903 of an 1892 cream crepe dress worn by Kate Mallory Williams at her graduation from Brooklyn Heights Seminary.[15] Prior to the move, 23,500 objects from the Brooklyn collection were digitized and these images are now shared by both organizations.[16] At the time of the merger, the Met costume collection consisted of 31,000 objects from the 17th-century onwards.[16] The opening exhibition in 2014 featured work by British-born designer Charles James, an important figure in New York fashion of the 1940s and 1950s and whose work is in the Brooklyn collection. [5]
On September 8, 2015, it was announced that Harold Koda would be stepping down from his position as Curator in Charge of the Costume Institute. Andrew Bolton, who had joined the Costume Institute in 2002 as associate curator and was made curator in 2006, was announced as his replacement.[1]
In May 2017, the Costume Institute featured an exhibition featuring the works of Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons. The exhibit was the Costume Institute's first exhibition focusing on a living designer since Yves Saint Laurent in 1983.[17]
List of exhibitions
- 1971–1972: Fashion Plate (October 1971 – January 1972)[18][19]
- 1972–1973: Untailored Garments (January–July 1972)[20][21]
- 1973–1974: The World of Balenciaga (March–September 1973)[22]
- 1974–1975: Romantic and Glamorous Hollywood Design (November 1974 – August 1975)[19][23]
- 1975–1976: American Women of Style (December 1975 – August 1976)[19][24]
- 1976–1977: The Glory of Russian Costume (December 1976 – August 1977)[19][25][26]
- 1977–1978: Vanity Fair: A Treasure Trove (December 1977– September 1978)[19][27]
- 1978–1979: Diaghilev: Costumes and Designs of the Ballets Russes (November 1978 – June 1979)[19]
- 1979–1980: Fashions of the Habsburg Era: Austria-Hungary (December 1979 – August 1980)[19][28]
- 1980–1981: The Manchu Dragon: Costumes of China, the Chi'ng Dynasty (December 1980 – August 1981)[19]
- 1981–1982: The Eighteenth-Century Woman (December 1981 – September 1982)[19][29][30]
- 1982–1983: Le Belle Époque (December 1982 – September 1983)[19][31]
- 1983–1984: Yves Saint Laurent: 25 Years of Design (December 1983 – September 1984)[19][32]
- 1984–1985: Man and the Horse (December 1984 – September 1985)[19][33]
- 1985–1986: Costumes of Royal India (December 1985 – August 1986)[19][34]
- 1986–1987: Dance (December 1986 – September 1987)[19][35]
- 1987–1988: In Style: Celebrating Fifty Years of the Costume Institute (November 1987 – April 1988)[19][36]
- 1988–1989: From Queen to Empress: Victorian Dress 1837–1877 (December 1988 – April 1989)[19][37]
- 1989–1990: The Age of Napoleon: Costume from Revolution to Empire, 1789–1815 (December 1989 – April 1990)[19]
- 1990–1991: Théâtre de la Mode – Fashion Dolls: The Survival of Haute Couture (December 1990 – April 1991)[19]
- 1991–1992: Gala held, but no concurrent costume exhibition [38]
- 1992–1993: Fashion and History: A Dialogue (December 1992 – March 1993)[19][39]
- 1993–1994: Diana Vreeland: Immoderate Style (December 1993 – March 1994)[19][40]
- 1994–1995: Orientalism: Visions of the East in western dress (December 1994 – March 1995)[19][41][42]
- 1995–1996: Haute Couture (December 1995 – March 1996)[19][43]
- 1996–1997: Christian Dior (December 1996 – March 1997)[19][44][45]
- 1997–1998: Gianni Versace (December 1997 – March 1998)[19][46][47][48]
- 1998–1999: Cubism and Fashion (December 10, 1998 – March 14, 1999)[19][49]
- 1999–2000: Rock Style (December 9, 1999 – March 19, 2000)[19][50]
- 2000–2001: No costume exhibition presented [51]
- 2001: Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House Years (May 1 –July 29, 2001)[19][52]
- 2001–2002: No costume exhibition gala presented [51]
- 2003: Goddess: The Classical Mode (May 1 – August 3, 2003)[19][53]
- 2004: Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion and Furniture in the 18th Century (April 2?, –August 8, 2004)[19][54]
- 2005: The House of Chanel (May 5 –August 7, 2005)[19][55]
- 2005-2006: Rara Avis: Selections from the Iris Barrel Apfel Collection (September 13, 2005 – January 22, 2006)[56]
- 2006: AngloMania: Tradition and Transgression in British Fashion (May 3 –September 6, 2006)[19][57]
- 2007: Poiret: King of Fashion (May 9 –August 5, 2007)[19][58][59]
- 2008: Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy (May 7 –September 1, 2008)[19][60][61]
- 2009: The Model As Muse: Embodying Fashion (May 6 –August 9, 2009)[19][62][63][64]
- 2010: American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity (May 5 –August 10, 2010)[19][65][66][67]
- 2011: Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty (May 4 –August 7, 2011) [19][68][69][70]
- 2012: Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations (May 10 –August 19, 2012)[71]
- 2013: Punk: Chaos to Couture (May 9 –August 14, 2013)[72][73]
- 2014: Charles James: Beyond Fashion (May 8 –August 10, 2014)[74][75][76]
- 2014-2015: Death Becomes Her: A Century of Mourning Attire (October 21, 2014 - February 1, 2015)[77]
- 2015: China: Through the Looking Glass• (May 7 – September 7, 2015)[78]
- 2015-2016: Jacqueline de Ribes: The Art of Style (November 19, 2015 - February 21, 2016)[79]
- 2016: Manus x Machina: Fashion In An Age Of Technology (May 5 - September 5, 2016) [80]
- 2016-2017: Masterworks: Unpacking Fashion (November 18, 2016 - February 5, 2017)[81]
- 2017: Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between (May 4 - September 4, 2017)[82]
- 2018: Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination (May 10 - October 8, 2018) [83]
- 2019: Camp: Notes on Fashion (May 8 - September 9 2019)[84]
- 2020: About Time: Fashion and Duration[85]
- 2021-2022 In America: A Lexicon of Fashion (part one of a two part exhibition)[86]
References
- ^ a b "Harold Koda to Step Down After Leading Met Museum's Costume Institute for 15 Years; Andrew Bolton to Become Curator In Charge of the Department". The Met. 8 September 2015. Archived from the original on 15 March 2017. Retrieved 2019-01-29.
- ^ Marriott, Hannah; Gilbert, Sarah (2017-05-02). "Met Gala 2017: avant garde looks on the red carpet – in pictures". The Guardian. ISSN 0261-3077. Retrieved 2019-01-29.
- ^ Karimzadeh, Marc (14 January 2014). "Met Names Costume Institute Complex in Honor of Anna Wintour". WWD. Retrieved 15 January 2014.
- ^ Trebay, Guy (29 April 2015). "At the Met, Andrew Bolton Is the Storyteller in Chief". New York Times. Retrieved 13 August 2015.
- ^ a b Karimzadeh, Marc (5 May 2014). "Michelle Obama Cuts the Ribbon at Anna Wintour Costume Center". WWD. Retrieved 7 May 2014.
- ^ "Michelle Obama to open Anna Wintour's Met costume center". Usatoday.com. 2014-04-30. Retrieved 2014-05-06.
- ^ "First lady of fashion Anna Wintour gets teary as First Lady Michelle Obama honors her at the Met". NY Daily News. 2006-03-17. Retrieved 2014-05-06.
- ^ Tiffany Yannetta. "Inside the Anna Wintour Costume Center's Charles James Exhibit - Afternoon at the Museum - Racked NY". Ny.racked.com. Retrieved 2014-05-06.
- ^ "Michelle Obama Cuts the Ribbon for New Anna Wintour Costume Center - Speakeasy - WSJ". Blogs.wsj.com. 2012-04-17. Retrieved 2014-05-06.
- ^ "Henry Street Settlement". Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved 2019-01-29.
- ^ a b "Neighborhood Playhouse Records". New York Public Library Archives & Manuscripts. Retrieved 2019-01-29.
- ^ "Costume Institute Records, 1937-2008" (PDF). Metropolitan Museum of Art Archives.
- ^ Stuart, Amanda Mackenzie (2012). Empress of Fashion, A Life of Diana Vreeland. Harper Collins. p. 248.
- ^ "The Costume Institute". www.metmuseum.org. Retrieved 2019-01-30.
- ^ a b Brooklyn Museum’s Costume Treasures Going to the Met, New York Times article in December 2008
- ^ a b Collection of the Brooklyn Museum costumes Archived 2014-04-30 at the Wayback Machine on Artstor
- ^ "The 2017 Met Gala Theme Will Be Comme des Garçons's Rei Kawakubo". Vogue. Retrieved 2019-01-29.
- ^ Cavallo, Adolph S (October 1971). Stoddart, Katherine (ed.). "Fashion Plate: An Opening Exhibition for the New Costume Institute" (PDF). The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin. 30 (1): 45–48. doi:10.2307/3258574. JSTOR 3258574. Retrieved 2014-05-23.
To salute the fashion industry of New York, whose tireless efforts and financial contributions were instrumental in making the new Costume Institute a reality, the Museum will present Fashion Plate in the Costume Institute in the fall of 1971...Fashion Plate will be the first of these gallery installations – the inaugural exhibition.
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af ag ah ai aj "Museum Exhibitions 1870–2012" (PDF). Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 2014-05-24.
- ^ "Costume Institute opens new exhibition" (Press release). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. January 1972. Retrieved 2014-05-23.
The Costume Institute of The Metropolitan Museum of Art opens its second exhibition on Wednesday, January 26. Entitled Untailored Garments it presents a diverse assemblage of clothing—mostly non-European in origin—which is folded and draped on the human body rather than cut and seamed.
- ^ "Around Town:Museums". New York: 26. June 19, 1972. Retrieved 2014-05-23.
- ^ Martin, Richard; Koda, Harold (1993). Diana Vreeland: Immoderate Style. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. p. 15. ISBN 9780870996917. OCLC 29315100. Retrieved 2014-05-23.
- ^ "In and Around Town:Museums". New York: 26. August 25, 1975. Retrieved 2014-05-23.
- ^ "New Costume Institute exhibition, American women of style, to open at Metropolitan Museum December 13" (Press release). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. December 1975. Retrieved 2014-05-23.
- ^ "Museum to Exhibit Old Russian Clothes". Palm Beach Daily News. November 9, 1975. Retrieved 2014-05-24.
- ^ "History of Russian costume from the eleventh to the twentieth century : from the collections of the Arsenal Museum, Leningrad ; Hermitage, Leningrad ; Historical Museum, Moscow ; Kremlin Museums, Moscow ; Pavlovsk Museum / [catalogue compiled by T.S. Alyoshina, I.I. Vishnevskaya, L.V. Efimova, T.T. Korshunova. V.A. Malm, E. Yu. Moiseenko, M.M. Postnokova-Loseva, E.P. Chernukha]". Retrieved 2014-05-24.
- ^ "Treasure trove of costumes". St. Petersburg Times. November 2, 1977. Retrieved 2014-05-24.
- ^ Cone, Polly, ed. (1980). The Imperial Style: Fashions of the Hapsburg Era: Based on the Exhibition "Fashions of the Hapsburg era, Austria-Hungary" at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, December 1979 – August 1980. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. ISBN 0870992325. Retrieved 2014-05-24.
- ^ Morris, Bernadine (December 8, 1981). "18th Century Sparks Gala Fashion Night". Retrieved 27 May 2014.
- ^ Leon Talley, Andre (December 6, 1981). "Vreeland's Show". New York Times. Retrieved 26 May 2014.
- ^ Duka, John (December 7, 1982). "La Belle Europe Reigns Again At Met Museum". New York Times. Retrieved 27 May 2014.
- ^ Morris, Bernadine (December 6, 1983). "Gala Night at Met Hails Saint Laurent". New York Times. Retrieved 27 May 2014.
- ^ Morris, Bernadine (December 4, 1984). "At Costume Institute Show, Equestrian is the Theme". New York Times. Retrieved 27 May 2014.
- ^ Morris, Bernadine (December 10, 1985). "A Celebration of Royal India's Fashions". New York Times. Retrieved 26 May 2014.
- ^ Morris, Bernadine (December 10, 1986). "Amid Costumes A Little Night Music". New York Times. Retrieved 27 May 2014.
- ^ Morris, Bernadine (December 8, 1997). "Spectacular outfits abound at 15th annual costume gala". New York Times. Retrieved 27 May 2014.
- ^ Morris, Bernadine (December 6, 1988). "Costume Show: Victorian Elegance". New York Times. Retrieved 27 May 2014.
- ^ "In Decked Halls, Wassails". New York Times. December 15, 1991. Retrieved 26 May 2014.
- ^ Morris, Bernadine (December 8, 1992). "Review/Fashion; Costume Change At the Met". New York Times. Retrieved 26 May 2014.
- ^ "EVENING HOURS; The Ladies in Red". New York Times. December 12, 1993. Retrieved 26 May 2014.
- ^ Orientalism: Visions of the East in Western Dress. Metropolitan Museum of Art. 1994. ISBN 0870997335.
- ^ Dullea, Georgia (September 25, 1994). "Glamour Guys for the Ball". New York Times. Retrieved 26 May 2014.
- ^ Brozan, Nadine (October 9, 1995). "Chronicle". New York Times. Retrieved 27 May 2014.
- ^ "USA: NEW YORK: CHRISTIAN DIOR'S COSTUME INSTITUTE GALA". Associated Press. Retrieved 26 May 2014.
- ^ Brozan, Nadine (August 1, 1996). "Chronicle". New York Times. Retrieved 26 May 2014.
- ^ DiGiacomo, Frank (December 15, 1997). "Inside the sold-out Costume Institute gala". New York. Retrieved 26 May 2014.
- ^ Menkes, Suzy (December 9, 1997). "The Verve and Vivacity of Versace in Met Retrospective". New York Times. Retrieved 26 May 2014.
- ^ C.R. White, Constance (December 11, 1997). "At the Met, a Golden Melting Pot". New York Times. Retrieved 26 May 2014.
- ^ "CUBISM AND FASHION" (Press release). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. November 2, 1998. Retrieved 2014-05-25.
- ^ "ROCK STYLE IS THEME FOR METROPOLITAN MUSEUM'S DECEMBER COSTUME INSTITUTE EXHIBITION" (Press release). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. December 3, 1999. Retrieved 2014-05-25.
- ^ a b "Costume Institute Gala Returns". BizBash. July 31, 2002. Retrieved 26 May 2014.
- ^ "JACQUELINE KENNEDY: THE WHITE HOUSE YEARS" (Press release). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. November 13, 2000. Retrieved 2014-05-25.
- ^ "Goddess to be Theme of Costume Institute's Spring 2003 Exhibition and Gala at Metropolitan Museum" (Press release). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. May 2003. Retrieved 2014-05-25.
- ^ Menkes, Suzy (April 27, 2004). "Voluptuous lives, 'Dangerous Liaisons'". New York Times. Retrieved 26 May 2014.
- ^ "Metropolitan Museum to Present Unprecedented Chanel Exhibition" (Press release). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. May 2005. Retrieved 2014-05-25.
- ^ "Rara Avis: Selections from the Iris Barrel Apfel Collection" (Press release). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. September 2005. Retrieved 2014-05-25.
- ^ "AngloMania: Tradition and Transgression in British Fashion" (Press release). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. April 22, 2006. Retrieved 2014-05-25.
- ^ ""Poiret: King of Fashion" at Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute to Celebrate Paul Poiret, Visionary Artist-Couturier of Early 20th Century" (Press release). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. April 22, 2006. Retrieved 2014-05-26.
- ^ "Poiret's Descendents". The New York Times. May 8, 2007. Retrieved 2014-05-24.
- ^ "Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute Salutes Power of "Superheroes" Imagery in Fashion" (Press release). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. May 2008. Retrieved 2014-05-26.
- ^ Wilson, Eric (May 6, 2008). "Stars and Superheroes Sparkle at Museum Gala". New York Times. Retrieved 26 May 2014.
- ^ "The Model as Muse Embodying Fashion". Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 2014-05-24.
- ^ "Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute Explores Role of Fashion Models as Muses of Recent Eras" (Press release). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. May 2009. Retrieved 2014-05-26.
- ^ Wilson, Eric (May 4, 2009). "A Museum Gala Where High Cheekbones and Higher Hemlines Rule". New York Times. Retrieved 2014-05-24.
- ^ ""American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity" at Metropolitan Museum to Open May 5, 2010; First Costume Institute Exhibition Based on Renowned Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection" (Press release). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. May 3, 2010. Retrieved 2014-05-25.
- ^ Horyn, Cathy (May 3, 2010). "American Women on the March". New York Times. Retrieved 2014-05-24.
- ^ Menkes, Suzy (May 3, 2010). "Elegance Is the Norm at Costume Institute Gala". New York Times. Retrieved 2014-05-24.
- ^ "Alexander McQueen's Iconic Designs to be Celebrated in a Spring 2011 Costume Institute Retrospective". Metropolitan Museum of Art. February 1, 2010. Retrieved 2014-05-24.
- ^ Menkes, Suzy (May 2, 2011). "Alexander McQueen in All His Dark Glory". New York Times. Retrieved 2014-05-24.
- ^ Forrester, Sharon. "Met Ball 2011". vogue.co.uk. Retrieved 2014-05-24.
- ^ "Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada's Impossible Conversations at Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute" (Press release). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. May 7, 2012. Retrieved 2014-05-23.
- ^ "Punk Fashion Is Focus of Costume Institute Exhibition at The Metropolitan Museum of Art" (Press release). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. May 9, 2013. Retrieved 2014-05-23.
- ^ Armstrong, Lisa (May 7, 2013). "Met Ball 2013: The Punk Parade". Telegraph. Retrieved 2014-05-24.
- ^ "Charles James: Beyond Fashion May 8 – August 10, 2014" (Press release). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. April 10, 2014. Retrieved 2014-05-23.
- ^ Trebay, Guy (May 7, 2014). "Inside the Met Ball: Sculptures in Silk". New York Times. Retrieved 2014-05-24.
- ^ Moore, Booth. "Met Costume Institute Gala: Beyond fashion indeed". Los Angeles Times. Retrieved 2014-05-24.
- ^ "Death Becomes Her: A Century of Mourning Attire". The Met. Archived from the original on 25 October 2017. Retrieved 2019-01-29.
- ^ "China: Through the Looking Glass: Costume Institute's Spring 2015 Exhibition at Metropolitan Museum to Focus on Chinese Imagery in Art, Film, and Fashion" (Press release). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. April 14, 2015. Retrieved 2015-05-04.
- ^ "Jacqueline de Ribes: The Art of Style". The Met. Archived from the original on 7 May 2018. Retrieved 2019-01-29.
- ^ "Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology". New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. 2016-05-02. Retrieved 2016-05-03.
- ^ "Masterworks: Unpacking Fashion". The Met. Archived from the original on 25 February 2018. Retrieved 2019-01-29.
- ^ "Rei Kawakubo / Comme des Garcons Art of the In-Betweens". The Met. Archived from the original on 23 December 2018. Retrieved 2019-01-29.
- ^ "Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination". The Met. Archived from the original on 29 January 2019.
- ^ https://www.gothamist.com/amp/articles/create%3farticle_id=5cd191c7c649b40001442c14[permanent dead link ]
- ^ https://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2020/about-time
- ^ https://www.vogue.com/article/costume-institute-exhibition-in-america-a-lexicon-of-fashion-andrew-bolton
External links
- Charles James: Beyond Fashion link to the 2014 opening exhibition, honoring the work of Charles James
- Guide to the Metropolitan Museum of Art
- Digital collections of the Costume Institute
- Costume Institute Records, 1937-2011 from The Metropolitan Museum of Art Archives, New York.