Suikan
Mizuhoshi is a type of clothing that was used by low-ranking officials serving the imperial court during the Heian period (794-1185). The term "mizuhoshi" refers to a garment made by stretching cloth without glue, drying it on a board, and peeling it off to make it taut. The clothing is a sliding-door type of jacket with a single-breasted body and open sides, and the collar is tied with a kumihimo cord.[1]
In the late Heian period, various materials were used to make mizuhoshi, including white linen, plain-colored cloth, and tie-dyed cloth. Warriors who became lower-ranked military officers of the court also wore mizuhoshi, which gradually became a formal attire. During the Kamakura period (1185-1333) to the Muromachi period (1333-1573), samurai wore mizuhoshi as formal dress along with hunting clothes.[1]
The mizuhoshi was typically worn in the banryo style, but a method was devised to wear it in the tari-kubi style with the collar folded inward. A braided cord was used to reinforce and decorate the garment, and the wearer would typically wear a kuboshi hat and kukuri hakama with the mizuhoshi.[1]
Over time, various materials were used for the mizuhoshi, including hemp cloth, plain silk, twill, and gauze. In some cases, the entire garment was made of silk for the sake of elegance. The hem of the mizuhoshi was tied together with a braided cord to prevent fraying, and it was then tucked into the hakama.[1]
The word "mizuhoshi" literally means "water-drying," referring to the process of stretching the cloth and drying it without using glue. The term "suikan hakama" is also used to refer to the long hakama worn with the mizuhoshi, although the exact meaning of this term is somewhat debated.[1]